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Found 2516 results

  1. legomanijak

    [MOC] Aston Martin DB5

    Martin, Aston Martin. Kind of a tribute to the late Sir Sean Connery, the car he made famous or was it the other way around. Minifig scale, the colour is not the best but even Lego won't do it properly. Lego Aston Martin DB5 by legomanijak, on Flickr Lego Aston Martin DB5 by legomanijak, on Flickr Lego Aston Martin DB5 by legomanijak, on Flickr
  2. legomanijak

    [MOC] Jaguar XKSS

    A car I made about 4 years ago and was patiently waiting for all the necessary parts to be produced in Dark green. That time has not yet arrived unfortunately so here it is in red. Lego Jaguar XKSS by legomanijak, on Flickr Lego Jaguar XKSS by legomanijak, on Flickr Lego Jaguar XKSS by legomanijak, on Flickr
  3. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But this time I have prepared something special! Meet the Chevrolet K10 Silverado!!! Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/chevrolet-k10-silverado-1985 For the first time I used the construction of the chassis separately from the body, that is, the body can be easily removed and any other body can be built on the chassis.
  4. The Jersey Brick Guy

    Modular Building Sets - Rumours and Discussion

    Hi all, I figured that instead of hijacking everyone's threads with similar questions about modulars, to just create one thread where people can ask questions and the like. This way we are not junking up specific topics with questions about multiple modulars. I look forward to the discussion with everyone! ------------------------- :-: For Reference :-: We have had the following: Cafe Corner Market Street Green Grocer Fire Brigade Grand Emporium Pet Shop Town Hall Palace Cinema Parisan Restaurant Detectives Office Brick Bank Assembly Square Downtown Diner Corner Garage Bookshop The unique business's that have come out of those modulars are: Apartment (MS) Apartment (GC) Apartment (PR) Apartment (DO) Apartment (AS) Apartment (CG) Art Studio (PR) Bakery (MS) Bakery (AS) Bank (BB) Barbara Shop (DO) Book Store (BS) Cafe (CC) Cafe (AS) Dance Studio (AS) Dentist (AS) Department Store (GE) Detectives Office (DO) Diner (DD) Garage (CG) Gas Station (CG) Grocery Store (GC) Gym (DD) Fire House (FB) Flower Shop (AS) Laundromat (BB) Movie Theater (PC) Music Store (AS) Pet Store (PS) Photo Studio (AS) Pool Hall (DO) Recording Studio (DD) Restaurant (PR) Town Hall (TH) Town House (PS) Town House (BS) Veterinarian (CG)
  5. 1. Hi everyone. I’m new here but I have been building with LEGO-bricks for quite a long time. Hence this short story about my LEGO past. The theme, as far as you can call it a theme, what I’m working on is building buildings on a scale of 1:25. Why on that scale? Because it is indeed quite different from the general scale that is now called minifig scale. That is mainly due to the time I got my first LEGO as a child. That pretty much coincided with the moment LEGO sets were on sale for the first time in The Netherlands. The box I got was one of those boxes in which the bricks were neatly laid together as chocolates in a chocolates box. As a child, I found those doors and windows far too small and soon I made these door openings twice as wide and eight bricks high. This made my buildings far more playable. Later on, I found out that the width to height ratio of this self-made door opening 1:2.4 was, which corresponded reasonable well with real doors in real buildings. The height of the door was eight layers or 76.8 mm. Compared to the usual door height of 2 meters, that gives a ratio of 1:26. I made it 1:25 because that calculated a bit easier. Due to the limitations that the LEGO-parts give you, you sometimes have to ‘give and take’ when it comes to the exact scale of your MOC. The second reason of not building in minifig scale is that in those days minifigs simply did not exist. They came into play much later on, in a time I was in my so-called ‘dark ages’. I am regularly asked why I am not going to build on minifig scale. The only explanation is that I simply can’t handle the length/with ratio of the minifig. Take the height and then the width is not right. Take the width and then de length is not good. Keep the aspect ratio of the minifig and you get a distorted picture of your MOC. Nevertheless, I have seen very great and beautiful buildings and layouts on a minifig scale. Those builders then roughly holds a scale of 1:40. The minifig would in reality be 160 cm high and 64 cm wide. And it is accepted that medieval cottages have a ceiling of 4 meters in height. So, forget the ‘scale’ of minifig scale and look at the creativity of it… Miniland scale would be another alternative. There are some builders who are active on this scale and archive very nice results. The disadvantage is that you quickly have to deal with very large dimensions with buildings other than houses. The costs then will rise very quickly and transport to events will be an insurmountable problem. By the way, Miniland scale is also taken broadly, and often varies between 1:22 and 1:13, depending on the size of the real building. Easy to calculate if you count the layers of the door height. In the meantime, I’m so used to my “own” scale of 1:25 that I almost automatically feel whether the proportions are right or not. So, I’m not going to change that scale. I think, it is a good average between minifig scale and miniland scale. Maybe, it is a pity that I cannot use figures on my buildings. Certainly no minifigs. Normally, I don’t think those figurines are that important. But they do bring more liveliness and viewing pleasure, especially for the kids. And it gives a feel for the ratio and size of a building. The only LEGO-figurines that fit in in terms of proportion are the little dolls from the Belville series. With their height of 75 mm, they correspond reasonably to the human size. So that explains the presence of those figurines on some of my buildings on LEGO-events. Although there are also many visitors who do not recognize the little dolls as LEGO-figurines and sometimes even think that it is Playmobil. Anyway, then there is something to explain…
  6. What do you think will be coming out of the Speed Champions series in 2021? Personally, I think there is a chance for something from IMSA. There may be such sets: Corvette C7.R (small set) Koenigsegg Jesco (small set) Porsche Taycan (small set) Toyota Ts050 Hybrid (double set) Aston Martin Vulcan or Vantage GTE (double set) And maybe something else with hypercar because of the WEC season 2020/2021
  7. Gregdabrat

    Lego Town truck

    This is a quick little truck i made, based off of the looks of 70s town sets. Feedback and suggestions are greatly appreciated 🙂 PXL_20201024_161412947 by Gregdabrat Nunya, on Flickr PXL_20201024_161430620 by Gregdabrat Nunya, on Flickr
  8. Gregdabrat

    Lego city tatra truck crane

    This is a MOC i made, it is a fictional 10 by 10 tatra truck. Im newer to MOCs, feedback and suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Images: https://www.flickr.com/photos/190338533@N07/shares/pR8z8S PXL_20201024_012536946 by Gregdabrat Nunya, on Flickr PXL_20201024_012621510 by Gregdabrat Nunya, on Flickr PXL_20201024_012652938 by Gregdabrat Nunya, on Flickr Youtube video on how to build:
  9. I redesigned the LEGO logo in an Art Deco theme for LOLUG’s October Competition. Website | Flickr | YouTube
  10. For those unaware, the Mandela Effect is the concept of false memories of the past - it takes its name from the most famous example of this, which is that many remember Nelson Mandela dying in prison in the 80s when he actually died in 2013. Usually the Mandela Effect refers to a shared false memory across a group of people. Do you have any false memories involving Lego? Maybe you remember a set or part being released which doesn't exist, a set or figures having different features or you remember a set being released in a different year? Post your examples below, there are bound to be some given that most of us discover Lego at a young age when our memory is just developing. I have 1 example of this: I'm sure I remember a small adventurers set (https://letsbuilditagain.com/instructions/5938/) having a feature where the skeleton pops up when the tomb is opened - I've never owned this set but I'm sure I can remember a picture of a box like this one where the skeleton is popping up from the trap door. This feature was in a studios set I think and also a Harry Potter set a few years later so maybe that's why.
  11. Another month, another model :D This time I come back to agricultural machinery. I built the 150 hp Case 1455 XL tractor and the Bunning Lowlander 105 mk4 manure spreader. For comparison, photos of real machines CASE 1455 XL The tractor is built on the chassis I used in the previous ones. After many tests and delicate modifications, it turned out to be very reliable and solid. In addition, it is very versatile - it allows you to build most tractors in the power range of 140 to 170 km in a 1:17 scale. It have four functions, large motor for driving, servo for steering, medium motor - PTO and medium motor for three-point hitch system. The previous ones, has SBricks for controll the model. This one has two IR recivers. Some of the people buying building instructions asked, if there was a chance to replace the sbrick, so I met the expectations. My favorite element of this model is the hood. It could be a standalone set from the creator series :D Fortunately for me, 1x1 brackets appeared, without them it would not be possible to build it. Bunning Lowlander 105 mk4 The first problem I encountered when trying to build a spreader was the choice of the model itself. They are all divided into high and low frame ones. As I wanted to use agricultural tires, I chose the low frame. I chose the blue Bunning Lowlander. Very nice because it has detailed side boards, a lot of details and interesting colors scheme. In fact, the model is very simple. Its mechanisms are limited to sliding floor chains and spinning shafts. I added a tensioning mechanism for flor chains by using a shock absorber and it works very well. The whole thing looks good and I like it very much. You can find building instructions here: Selfy: https://sellfy.com/m1longer/ Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/users/M_longer/mocs/ The whole thing, although rather simple, gave me a lot of fun. Especially the spreader. Down below You can find photos and a short video presenting the possibilities of the set.
  12. There are not many fictional spaceships as recognizable as the x-wing. Because of that, most of us had built one at some point of time. After all, it is both iconic and pretty simple: long, thin nose, four wings on hinges, cockpit somewhere in the middle and long guns on wingtips. It was built so many times it is as boring as it is popular, which is why I never attempted doing it. If not BrickVault, with whom I am cooperating on making models with instructions, I would probably never make my own. Eventually though popular demand made it an obvious choice and so I started. What was initially a build stuck somewhere between one TIE or another, took me about four months to complete, which is huge for such a relatively small ship. Let me present you the finished product first. Because we were not entirely sure which color variant is the best, I ended up making three - this way everybody will have one which fits him! So: are X-Wings simple? I just can't emphasize on how wrong was I. There are so many things that need to be done right. Thin wings. Front fuselage which has no parallel surface and has an annoying stripe which interferes with structural work inside. Rear fuselage which is neither rectangular or hexagonal, it is something else. And don't even get me started on the cockpit situation. LEGO part designers made one cockpit which has good front, but bad back, and then the new one has good back, but bad front. Had they merged the designs into one it would be perfect, and without it we can only pick whether we will have abnormally wide nose section, or abnormally square-looking cockpit. Altough there are many great X-Wing designs in the AFOL world, most notably those from Atlas, Cehnot, Inthert, Mike Psiaki and Dmac, among many others, most have their noses either studded, or with jagged edges. So instead of starting with the wings, I started with the front fuselage, as it was the most difficult part. And after all what can be hard with simple wing-opening mechanism? This was the fist sketch. I had no clue how to join this all, and tried all possible cockpit pieces, but I liked the idea of using hinges to make smooth upper sides of the ship. But since my designs modelled in LDD end up being... uh, not too perfect, I had to move to real bricks, and fast. So immediately after a batch of pieces including the cockpit arrived, I made the real version of the nose. ...yeah, so it does not look like the LDD one, because the LDD one was really bad. This one features a lip I was pretty sure was the standard feature of the x-wing, later I discovered that the lipped version is a hangar model, and miniature model has none of it. Also, I noticed the fuselage is already too high so it will have to be lowered later on. Here it has some of the rear fuselage, and first of many variants of nose tip. So far so good. Except it totally did not hold together, so... I also got a hunch that something odd is going on with the proportions at this stage, but "eeh this is a prototype, I will get back to it later". Having front part more or less done, I started doing the wing gearbox: It worked well enough so far, so I could return to the nose area. It was too high, nose top was too long and some of other proportions were wrong. So I fixed it: The X-wing's cockpit front panel does not line up with top surface of the nose, there is a slight angle change. I wanted to have that, but obviously overdid it badly... it looks sort of vulture'ish here too, due to the nose, doesn't it? There. Much better, isn't it? I added cheese slopes on top of 2x2 slopes behind the canopy so I could make the cockpit lower in relation to rear fuselage. I also made a better nose tip. Even the bottom was shaping up quite nicely. By that time, however, issues with wing mechanism became too apparent. It clogged often, was wobbly because each wing was held only on one technic beam, and tended to detach bottom fuselage panels every time when it was opened. Something had to be done, which meant another major rework. Eventually after about two weeks of tinkering, I maged to find a solution which in short space (6 studs) contains an 2x2 gearbox and two attachment points per wings, with added benefit of entire assembly built sideways which greatly helps with wings stability. What the final model uses for wing mechanism is an evolved version of this mechanism. Notice how the control knob is on the bottom of the ship... With wing core situation solved, I could move on to landing gear, which proven to be super simple but effective. Building, however, is not just about the design itself. Sometimes you have to tend for the workplace as well, because I eventually ended up with such a situation: ...so where is that part? In the apartment I was renting back then, I did not really have enough space for building. Or, anything really. ...so I moved. How often do you move to finish a MOC? :D This was just before the departure. Having the workspace situation resolved, I could get back to work. By that time I also got most of the parts I required to finish the ship, so I made all the components or their placeholders, and pondered why it still felt wrong. It took me a while, but this happened to be caused by rear fuselage. You see... I had it like on the left, while it should be more like the one on the right. Easy to fix? Except because the ship has no internal frame, it is held by the outer parts. So any rework in this area was causing issues everywhere else. I figured out a way. Yup, from that moment on, the tile-to-clip connection is main structural connection of the ship. Basically the idea is that front fuselage attaches to rear fuselage by these areas (and similar on the underside), and they all together "wrap around" the wing structure. It holds together surprisingly well, to the point it ended up being the final solution! This was the version tested by BrickVault. In case of some harder models, and X-Wing totally qualifies, we do an additional verification step to ensure all works. The results of the tests were, if I remember correctly: - landing gear collapses - nose top part cannot be attached properly - angled fuselage sides cannot be angled properly - rear fuselage top part randomly pops off not to mention several issues with the instruction itself. ...and what do you mean R2 doesn't fit? Here during debug of the front cover issue. If you work in IT, you know these dreaded words: "hmm it works for me". Yet for brickvault guys, this connection was not possible because the jumper tile was too deep. The issue, as usual, was caused by a part being placed far away, in this case - under the cockpit. Making instructions introduces entire new class of problems. How often do you debug a MOC? Now, remember what I said about the control gear being installed on the bottom? The idea was that an axle would go through the stand, with a nice knob to spin the gearbox to open/close the wings. Unfortunately though, the force required to open up wings is so high, the axle bent and twisted in a way which made operation through the stand impossible. It surprised me, because turning it with fingers is reasonably easy. This issue I did not solve. The only thing I could do was to move control point from the bottom to the top. This triggered YET ANOTHER F**** REWORK, this time of both the underbody top fuselage panels. I lost count here, but it seems the rear part was redone about 5 times totally, with smaller numerous adjustments during the way. The story came to an end after four months of work, several rebuilds, several totally wrong ideas, and a lot of beer drunk. I hope this wall of text is interesting for someone. Thanks for reading and tell me what you think! ------------ This build was done with collaboration with BrickVault. You can watch a video review here: Instructions are available here: https://www.brickvault.toys/collections/all
  13. Hi everybody, recently I finished my "Friends Central Perk" MOC building and now I like to share some impressions with you. The building is completely modular and equipped with interior. It consists of the Central Perk cafe in the first floor, a bowling alley on the second floor, three floors of labs (two fictional and one realistic) and one apartment at the top. For more details you can have a look at my YouTube channel. I hope you like it :)
  14. Lego Boost MOC - Stopwatch Lego Boost MOC - Stopwatch Lego Boost MOC - Stopwatch The button is made based on color sensor and spring.
  15. Niku

    Winter Retreat 1812

    One month after Napoleon massive invading force entered a burning and deserted Moscow, the starving French army is forced to begin a hasty retreat out of Russia.
  16. I do know that classic space is very popular, but do you think that lego would ever bring back another space theme?
  17. New version of an older build from 2017 - the Speeders have both been re-designed and I'm posting this again because there are now FREE downloadable instructions on Rebrickable! :)
  18. Evilkirk

    The Gonks of Ren

    YOU DON'T KNOW THE POWER!! The Gonks Of Ren are back - and for this, I must apologise :D I originally built a different rough version of these without using any source material in August 2019 (before the Rise of Skywalker) and as there's much more info and images of the Knights of Ren out there now, I thought it might be fun re-make the Gonks to look more like the Knights. I've uploaded free instructions onto Rebrickable for those who are ridiculous enough to want to build these slow moving, repetitive-speaking droids of death and destruction.
  19. BardDandelion

    Legions of the Damned

    Hello everybody, this is my first MOC presented here. Hope you will like it. ;) I really want to build something like that for a whole year. I was playing Heroes V during Fall 2017 and I was astonished how good was the design od Inferno units. Finally found some time (and I was out of yellow parts so couldn't increase my WH40k Orkz army :P ) and started to build... and after several days it was ready. :D Those army is inspired by many computer games I played or used to played when I was younger. Mainly Heroes V but also Disciples II (that's where the title comes from), Diablo and - of course - Khorne aspect of Chaos from Warhammer. Imp highly inspired by basic Inferno unit from Heroes V. Summoner. I don't remember when and where I spotted that arms technique. It was many years ago and it was bad guy from Orient Expedition: China. Two demonic Gargoyles. Figbarf. I'm not so sure about the black guy on the right. Basically, he seems to black for me. Need to work with him a bit, maybe add some dk red. Chariot. I really enjoy burning mane effect I got. :) Demonic Wyvern mounted by a Warlock. At Flickr I was asked about another angle, thought that was good idea,so here you are. Horned Demon that started whole army. And the "family picture": Check my Flickr account for more. C&C welcome. ;)
  20. This topic has a lot of photos inside, to make it easier for everyone to see the latest version of my MOD, I have editted this first post to show version 4, 8th Sep 2020. Your feedback is welcome or share your MOD ideas Please! bow port by R Y, on Flickr port view by R Y, on Flickr stern starboard revised by R Y, on Flickr My Lego collection consisted mainly of SW sets and its MOCs, I was tempted to get the 21322 Barracuda Bay when it came out in April but decided to save up for the UCS A-Wing, which I still haven’t got around to build yet, I have been modify the 75175 A-wing. A-Wing Mod by R Y, on Flickr I wasn’t too keen on the 31109 Creator Pirate Ship when I first saw its photos, especially the brick-built sails. During the Queen’s Birthday long weekend, I was reading posts on OZLUG of buying multiple sets to make it a bigger ship; that grabbed my attention as I mod all Lego sets where possible after I figured out Bricklink. However, at RRP of $160 AUD each, I might as well just buy the 21322 for $300 AUD; then again thanks to OZLUG, I realised that they are $119 at Kmart, meaning $238 worth of investment, no brainer! I quickly read up on reviews from Brickset and Brother’s Brick, how the completely brick-built design is its selling point, instead of using specialized boat hull pieces. My local Kmart had no stock, so I went to the next nearest one, nothing on the shelves again and a store girl told me all they have is already on the shelfs even though the online stock check shows limited availability. Disappointed, I was about the leave the store empty handed before I talked past the customer service counter, there was only one person in line so I decided to wait and check. The service girl was very helpful and checked the stock room for me, it turned out they do have three at the back, which I gladly picked up two; she told me apparently people try to steal Lego all the time, so they keep the good stuff at the back. I had to wait for my baby to settle and sleep before started building that night. As the original model is built in 3 sections: bow with forecastle, waist, stern with captain’s cabin; I decided to build 2 x waists sections and have 3 masts. I always build repetition sections step by step simultaneously instead of finishing one section and start another, personally I find this method quicker. My aim is to stick to the original Lego design and finish the hull asap, redesign the masts into foremast, mainmast and mizzen mast, and use the remaining pieces to touch up and make the 2 waists transition smoothly. 31109 Long Side View by R Y, on Flickr I wanted to rig the ship from the bowsprit to the stern flagpole, I had to move the “Plate Round 2 x 2 with Pin Hole and 4 Arms Up” to the mainmast beneath the lookout so the arms are equal distance to the diagonal spars from the foremast and mizzen mast. I spent more time on the foremast and rigging than any other sections. I tried a few different arrangements before settled down on the current layout, where the rigging goes down to the bowsprit from the upside-down diagonal spar. I used light bluish grey Technic Bush instead of the yellow ones provided. The hose piece is still slightly short and the bowsprit is pulled upwards, but the jib sail hides most of it. Overall, I was happy that I achieved my goal. Masts and Rigging by R Y, on Flickr I added a 1 x 2 red brown plate to each of the gun port openings so they are not too close to the waterline, I initially wanted to add 2 pieces per opening, but they were too high and affected the guns inside. You can tell where each of the section ends with the breaks from the 3027 6 x 16 plate in dark tan secured with 2 x 2 blue round tiles. I made sure the 1 x 4 special plates overlap the gap to secure the sections. The alternating red and light orange strip along the deck worked out perfectly, I was initially worried that I may get a double up of same coloured plates with my MOD. Joins of the Sections by R Y, on Flickr As Lego only gives half the number of guns compare to the gun ports, having 2 sets gives me 4 guns to fill up the front gun deck, squeezed 2 minifigs inside with torches. Gun Deck with Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I plated over the opening next to the gangways on the 2nd waist, to make it look like a quarterdeck, but not really raised due to the limitation of my skills in the mod. I really like the brick-built rowing boat from the alternative Skull Island bult, I made it longer using 2 x 2 slopes at the stern and made other changes as certain parts were already used in the main ship built. I also built a boat rack with 4 cheese slopes and some plates. The rowing boat fills up on the empty quarterdeck perfectly, I really like how it turned out. Rowing Boat by R Y, on Flickr With the 2 sets of 3 human minifigs, I swapped around their outfits, brought in a pair of black legs to swap out the peg leg. Now I have 6 different minifigs, I left out the epaulette for the officer to differentiate him from the captain. a9 by R Y, on Flickr a8 by R Y, on Flickr I built the red/green parrot and blue seagull according to the instructions, again had to use some different pieces due to availability. Lastly, I added the pet baboon hanging off the shroud, it’s a really fun build where its arms and waist are twistable to get a good pose. Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I really liked how this MOD turned out, this is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get a Lego 8-gun full-rigged-ship (three or more masts), even the 21322 only has only two masts. It’s around 58cm long from the tip of the bowsprit to the edge of stern flag, around 36cm tall from the tip of mainmast to the bottom of the hull, 19cm wide at the horizontal spars. With the elongated waist, it makes the forecastle and poop deck seem small in comparison, a bit out of proportion to be honest; but at this stage, I don’t have the skills to design and make them bigger. Side Front View by R Y, on Flickr Top Front View by R Y, on Flickr Back View by R Y, on Flickr
  21. Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): https://www.dupuis.com/seriebd/zombillenium/3204 Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...
  22. Jan_the_Creator

    Viking Village Collaboration

    I'm glad to present you the newest project by Zbudujmy.to LUG, the Viking Village! 8 members and friends of our Polish community teamed up for a huge early medieval display in the far north, where the Vikings rule unquestionably! Our model had its premiere on Hobby Fair in Poznań on 5th and 6th of september. Yes, we still have conventions here, even during the worldwide pandemic. ;) The whole collab stands on 7x8 standard 32x32 baseplates. We want to expand this project next year, as more builders enter with their parts. This is definitely a long-term project. ;) Big thanks to JaskiertheBard, because he was the one to start the project and he's built a huge chunk of it baseplates of it, including basically everything on the left side. I've just built a tiny 2x2 slice with the pathway uptop the cliff. :P Please excuse my terrible editing skills, but I guess it looks fine for a photo that was primarily taken on a convention last week with a light striking into the camera lens. It was tough, but I guess it looks quite nice. :) More closeup pics: [ Here's a whole Flickr album with even more pics. Thanks for viewing! ~Jan, the Creator
  23. BrickChampsCOM

    [MOC] Apple Store sign

    I'm creating an Apple Store for my LEGO LANE project. Here's my simple technique to create the Apple Store logo. Feel free to use it in your city! Find out how to create the McDonald's logo here. Apple Store logo
  24. Lego should do collectible mini figures for Star Wars. They would be great for The Mandalorian or other Star Wars. Do you agree. You can have your say right here.
  25. barneius

    [MOC] TIE Bomber

    The third model in my classic imperial TIE class ships line up. Both hulls are based and joint together with a technic frame which makes the model rigid and solid. The panels are built with the technique I've introduced in my TIE Interceptor. That makes the upper and lower parts of them locked securely in place and with the right angles, as I pay much attention to the proportions. All of the details are intentional - they are supposed to resemble the real built of this very interesting ship in Star Wars universum. Shaping of the front of the bomb hull was obviously inspired by Jerac (credits) yet it is definitely different built. It is pretty heavy as for its size - the piece count is 1643. There is a tight space for a minifig pilot in the cockpit. More pics on my flickr account here. If you like it, you may find pdf step-by-step instructions on rebrickable. TIE Bomber LEGO MOC by barneius heavy machinery and vessels industries ltd., on Flickr TIE Bomber LEGO MOC by barneius heavy machinery and vessels industries ltd., on Flickr TIE Bomber LEGO MOC by barneius heavy machinery and vessels industries ltd., on Flickr TIE Bomber LEGO MOC by barneius heavy machinery and vessels industries ltd., on Flickr TIE Bomber LEGO MOC by barneius heavy machinery and vessels industries ltd., on Flickr TIE Bomber LEGO MOC by barneius heavy machinery and vessels industries ltd., on Flickr