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Found 27 results

  1. Recently while testing for gear skipping in my EV3-powered torque heavy MOC sports car, I found this... The 5L (I believe) axle holding the half-gear I'm pointing at, which is clearly visible from the issue, moves out of the half-gear every time it skips. Indeed the axles with axle connectors connected to this gear have a "sliding axle" issue. I made a light fix by adding another axle connector, but I don't know if it will stop the sliding. Here above is the axle being pushed in... and pushed out to its maximum. Above is the issue: This piece my right finger is pointing at is in where my left points at, and it seems to wiggle enough to be the main cause of the sliding. However, I can't fix it because there is no place to reinforce the small piece. It seems from the pictures above with the axle sliding in and out that it will keep the half gear in place, but I don't know if it would under torque. Here's what happened to the last gear I had in here... completely chewed out by the axle. Have anybody else dealt with this? Some helpful feedback on this issue would be appreciated. Happy building.
  2. Hi. I was working on my car MOC (with a four-speed gearbox designed by Sariel) and had some unfortunate events happen. As stated in the title, the differential is somehow making the gear ratio higher than I need it. The gear moving the diff is moving at the same speed as the power input, but the wheel hub moves one rotation for every 3/4 rotation that I move the input shaft. Is this differential piece supposed to do this? I want the wheels to move at the same speed as the motor at 4th gear, which brings me to my next problem. I hear rapid-fire clicking noises every time my car is in 3rd and 4th gear. This happened to my other MOCs too, but I was able to solve it. Since the car is to be powered by two EV3 large motors, I actually believe there might be a clutch mechanism in the motors such as in the Technic linear actuators that also make a terrible clicking sound when they move all the way up or down. Whatever it is, I'm open to responses and hope the Eurobricks community could provide an explanation and solution about both of these issues. Here's some pictures, the orange and red pieces in the first pic were for testing the rotations. ' Thank you for your time.
  3. “Everything that happens once can never happen twice. But everything that happens twice will surely happen a third time.” If there is one thing at BMR that this could apply for, definitely now that September is coming to a close, it would be the month of OcTRAINber. And yes, just like last year, we would like to announce that this year there will indeed be another OcTRAINber building challenge! Just like last year and the year before, OcTRAINber isn’t just a regular challenge, it’s a themed challenge. Two years ago it was all about ridiculous long trains, last year it was all about foreign trains, and this year the challenge is… The Technic Challenge! As you know, OcTRAINber is all about building outside of your comfort zone. Ofcourse, all of us motorize our trains, be it with PUP, PF, IR, 9V, 12V or anything in between. But in real life, not only the wheels move. There is so much more going on in trains and trackside structures that moves around, or wiggles, or turns, or whatever it does, as long as it makes a movement. So, for this year, we thought it would be fun to challenge our Lego Train community to come up with as much train-related stuff that makes movement, other than just the regular motorization of a locomotive. And, different than the last two years, this time it doesn’t have to be a train, it can also be a trackside structure! As long as it has a form of movement not necessary to let it run on the tracks, you are good to go! Rules As per tradition, we won’t tell you as of yet any of the specifics we will use to score builds until October 1st, but, as per tradition, we will give the general rules that are necessary to enter your builds and start planning! “Moving” is defined as: A movement of any locomotive, rolling stock, structure, or other railroad-related item that is NOT indented to propel the item forwards or backwards on track. Of course, the item can have these movements (we even recommend doing this, because static trains are soooo boring), but you will only be scored on extra movements, like doors opening, or running vents, or a moving telehandler on a goods dock… So, you can enter your newly build Acela Express, and it can be 9V powered, but it needs to have some extra modes of movement included as well, otherwise we will disqualify your entry. I’m sure you get the point. Entries must be original models. No stealing. This also means no MODs, only MOCs. We are making no rules for the scale you choose to model in. We are welcoming models of 6, 7, and 8 studs, and anything in between or beyond! However, we appreciate detail and accuracy. Reasonably sized models are usually better for that, but we don’t knock anything or anyone with serious skill. NEW BUILDS ONLY. We are willing to accept anything unpublished or anything that was not published before September 1st 2019 as new. We want to inspire and promote a challenging build, entering an old model doesn’t quite work in that regard. Entries MUST be made on our Flickr group in the appropriate thread. This is the ONLY place we will be looking for entries, nowhere else. Sending photos to us on social media or showing us in person do not count as entries! We will be accepting entries from Midnight on October 1st to Midnight on November 1st (meaning October 31st, at 23:59 PDT). There is possibility of a grace period to ensure those that need that one final Bricklink order have a fair chance. Entries and Prizes Keep in mind that OcTRAINber is a ‘quality over quantity’-building event. This means that we rather encourage you to build one amazing build than several sub-par ones. That’s why, just like last year, we will restrict the number of entries to only one per person. We are not accepting digital entries this year to emphasize the spirit of the challenge. We haven’t finalized on prizes yet, but since this is a building challenge, we will for sure have some, just like in previous years. Just like last year, we want to encourage you to show off your WIPs this year as well, to make OcTRAINber really a month that is all about trains within the Lego community. Therefore, extra credit will be given to the best WIP stories and/or pictures during the event. Specific information about WIP points will be mentioned in the kick-off article, but the rules will be pretty much in line with last year’s event. We will pick the winners after we have announced the official close of the competition and have stopped accepting new entries, which will be some time after November 1. Once the judges (who, just like last year, will be announced in an upcoming article) have come to a sound conclusion regarding the winners, we will post one final article announcing them, and then we will be in contact with those winners regarding their prizes. So, that’s it for now. We are very excited about this years’ installment, hopefully the same goes for all you train-heads out there! Stay tuned for updates on the start of the challenge, the judges and the scoring when OcTRAINber starts on October 1st. So pack your gear and all aboard OcTRAINber! BTW: For more information and extras it's always wise to check out both Brickmodelrailroader.com, our Flickr and our Facebook, but we will ofcourse try our best to also answer your questions here on the famous Train Tech forums!  ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As we announced a bit over a week ago, this year BMR will again run the OcTRAINber contest. OcTRAINber is a contest meant to get outside of your comfort zone and build something you haven’t thought of before. You know, that one truly special build that will spice up your layout like no other has before. All within the realm of Lego Trains, but with a twist. So, let us officially introduce you to the contest and let’s get rolling! OcTRAINber First of all, the name. It’s called OcTRAINber, if somebody had not noticed after two years. Why OcTRAINber? Well, because it’s a great intermediate month between SHIPtember and November. Also, TRAINS. Mostly TRAINS. TRAINS. “The Technic Challenge” Second of all, the subject of this years OcTRAINber. Why the Technic Challenge? Two years ago we had a ‘build your longest’ theme, and last year we were all about ‘building that foreign dream of yours’. Both of them produced some really nice models, but, in essence, they were all static. Yes, some of them were motorized, and yes, some of them even had very fancy motorization that not even us had thought of before. However, in the end motorization was just a nice have-to, not a requirement, which is strange when you think about it. Therefore, we have decided that this year everything is forced to move. The more movement, the better! The Rules The Rules have already been announced in the previous OcTRAINber post, but for completeness’ sake we have pasted them here again: “Moving” is defined as: A movement of any locomotive, rolling stock, structure, or other railroad-related item that is NOT indented to propel the item forwards or backwards on track.Ofcourse, the item can have these movements (we even recommend doing this, because static trains are soooo boring), but you will only be scored on extra movements, like doors opening, or running vents, or a moving telehandler on a goods dock. So, you can enter your newly build Acela Express, and it can be 9V powered, but it needs to have some extra modes of movement included as well, otherwise we will disqualify your entry. I’m sure you get the point. Entries must be original models. No stealing. This also means no MODs, only MOCs. We are making no rules for the scale you choose to model in. We are welcoming models of 6, 7, and 8 studs, and anything in between or beyond! However, we appreciate detail and accuracy. Reasonably sized models are usually better for that, but we don’t knock anything or anyone with serious skill. Also, the building of Train-related builds which aren’t trains themselves (trackside structures etc.) is stimulated, so no need to even join the 6 vs 7 vs 8 wide wars this year! NEW BUILDS ONLY. We are willing to accept anything unpublished or anything that was not published before September 1st 2019 as new. We want to inspire and promote a challenging build, entering an old model doesn’t quite work in that regard. Type of Entries Unlike the previous two years, we will only accept real-life builds this year. This has everything to do with the subject of this year’s challenge. It’s just virtually impossible to show movement in digital builds, and to prove that it actually works. To level the playing field we have thus decided not to allow digital builds. However, we will have to separate categories of Entries: Direct Drive and Indirect Drive. To explain this a bit further: Direct Drive entries are entries that are/could be driven by a separate motor that is specifically meant for that moment. So think moving crossing poles, a truck that runs around, waggling ducks, a moving carousel… You name it. The Indirect Drive category in the other hand is meant for entries that move around because of a movement that is already happening. So think a train that is already running around due to it’s train motor, but that has some movement that is kinetically powered and only moves when the train moves. Does your Entry have both? Well, then you are in luck and you can enter it in both categories! That’s just a gesture from us here at BMR to stimulate some extra movement :) Third party parts BMR has always been positive towards third-party parts, as long as they have any way of added value to the hobby. So the rule of thumb is simple: Lego: Yes Third Party Parts meant specifically for use with Lego: Yes* Clones: No *Other than the previous years we have made some extra specification to the Third Party Parts. All Third Party Parts this year have to be meant for use with Lego. So BuWizz, PFx Brick, sBrick etc. are allowed, but Arduino and Raspberry Pi are not. Rule of thumb: If it has studs and/or connectors to one of the Lego electric systems, it’s OK. If not, it isn’t. Points Points will be awarded in three categories: Credibility, WIP Story and Movement Factor. First of all, credibility of the prototype. This means we will be looking at how much the build represents the real life prototype. This means the quality of the build, but potential scale etc. If you are sending in a fantasy model, we will look at how credible the build is; would it fit in, does the backstory make sense? (Please note that this means an entry does need to be based in the real-life in some way, so no fantasy universes like Star Wars, etc.) Second of all, the WIP story. This refers to both showing off your building process, but also to how and why you decided to model a certain prototype. The better the story and the more updates you give and the more elaborate your building story is, the better. (Also, feel free to cross-post these pictures in our WIP-thread while you are still building!) Third and last, the Movement Factor. This is all about the how of the movement of your build. So, is it powered in a special way, or does it have some crazy movement, or does it have some special functionality, etc. The more the merrier, but as always with OcTRAINber, it’s about quality first, and quality second. So it’s great if you have some wobbling pigeons, but if one of them also flies up and down… that could definitely add some points. The Judges This contest will have four judges. Why four? Well, because last year we also had four. Just like last year we will have a guest judge related to the building contest. This year our guest judge will be none other than Peer Kreuger, better known as Mahjqa, one of the most well-known technic gearheads out there. Almost (if not all) of Peer’s builds have some funky motorization in them, which time after time surprises and makes his builds even more fun. We are delighted to have him and we hope it will give you guys an extra incentive to build! Glenn Holland Cale Leiphart Gerbrand van den Eeckhout Peer Kreuger (This year’s guest judge!) Timeline We will be accepting entries from Midnight on October 1st (being right now!) to midnight on November 1st (meaning October 31st, at 23:59 PDT). There is possibility of a grace period to ensure those that need that one final Bricklink order have a fair chance Entries Entries are to be sent in ONLY via our own BMR Flickr! There are two discussions; one for the Direct Drive Entries and one for the Indirect Drive Entries. This is the ONLY place we will be looking for entries, nowhere else. Sending photos to us on social media or showing us in person do not count as entries. Next to that, please also add your pictures in the pool! Also, we have a special thread for WIP pictures, just to keep OcTRAINber going. However, do keep in mind that pictures in this thread don’t count as entries! The Prizes No contest without prizes! Just as last year we have some really nice prizes from several outlets. Which prizes specifically will be made public as soon as possible, so to keep the hype train running for a little bit longer! Spare Parts We here over at BMR are very, very excited about OcTRAINber 2019: The Technic Challenge and we are looking forward to all those entries. We are really looking forward to see what the community has to offer in terms of creativity and we hope that all of you will be stimulated by this contest to finally build that one amazing moving MOC that you always wanted to build, but never managed. Also, if there are any things that aren’t fully clear, you can always reach out to us by posting your message below. So pack your gear and get aboard OcTRAINber!
  4. I was working on my MOC and I found there was a lot of gear skipping. The skipping comes from this, a small gear with bracing on only one side. The finger on the left points to what pieces the right points at. If I remove the bush that the right is pointing at, there is no other piece to put there, because it will rub against a 24t gear. I also can't make the axle longer because right in front of the bush is a 4L with stop with a different gear ratio. I can't find a solution in how to support this axle and I would appreciate some help, thank you.
  5. The Ghost Racer

    Metal Gears

    I have a small question to ask yourself: do you know sites that sell lego technic metal gears? I've had enough need since my Tatra truck has already broken two in half .. the problem is that I do not notice when they break because it happens suddenly. I realize after several minutes that lacks a gear since my truck is powerful enough to continue to advance with little difficulty. I hope that has not already been made ​​any discussion of this topic.
  6. Hi!My name is Atilla from Hungary and I'm new to this forum. I have been lurking for a while, mostly reading the splendid pictorial reviews. Lately I decided to start a blog of my own, something between the mentioned reviews and Blackbirds technicopedia, displaying the sets I own.I have only 1 post so far, and I would like to expand a bit on that. (If somebody is interested, I can post the link to it. I'm not sure whether it counts as advertising or allowed at all).I'd like to ask for help with my research for an upcoming post. I'm writing a review of the first supercar, 853, and I would like to have a section of the history of the Technic product-line in the review.Here's what I know:I found, that the first Lego set ever to include any sort of gear was the set number 001, released in 1965. These gears did not have the X shaped hole in the middle, as the first axle with a X cross section wasn't released until 1970. Then a new set of gears was released, very similar to the previous ones, which now included the X shaped hole. These gears was not compatible with the Technic gears at all, because of the different teeth profiles.I also know that that the first universal joint was released in 1972, it was very similar to the Technic ones, but in a different colour (i believe red).This information, I could pull from the catalogue of bricklink, and some youtube videos reviewing the 001 set. I managed to buy some of these early gears from bricklink, in order to make a few high resolution photos. I'm aware that there was an ideabook (managed to buy get hold of it), showing 853 with a yellow body, made from the 852 helicopter (which I also managed to buy). I found that there was an image in the back of the building instructions for the set 858 "Auto Engines", showing 853 with an engine in the back. I managed to source 858, but could not get a building instruction for it. Fortunately it can be found online. I'm planning to build these "official" modifications as well. and take pictures / incorporate them into my blog post. I humbly ask if you could provide any more information about what similar functionality was present before the release of the Technical Set line in 1977. I'm aware of the "Dacta" line, but as far as bricklink knows, there was no Technic related Dacta set until 1983. Maybe there was other Dacta sets, using the pre-technic gears, but I couldn't find them. If there is a thread of a blog on this subject which I missed, then a link would be welcomed too.Any input on the subject of what lead to the release of the first 4 Technical Set is greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading my post.
  7. Camellia Café MCU (Micro Control Unit) gives children or students initial knowledge of Electronics. In Camellia Café MCU Laboratory, you will get basic knowledge of Electronics, Mechanisms and Software programming. Servo motor is widely used as an actuator of autonomous cars, robots and droids. A Servo Motor is a self-close loop. But only have a high performance motor is not enough. The motor-driven chips, encoder and algorithm play important roles. All keep servo motor with high accuracy in speed / torque, degree / position, time period feedback control. With Wifi Bluetooth/BLE and Cellular, it will be feasible to manipulate them from PCs, Pads and phones. What’s more, this make it easy to connect to Internet and Cloud Database. Mechanism is the body of Autonomous Cars, Robots and Droids. It is the mechanism that fulfills the movement. Gear, Belt or Chain and Linkage are three major transmission mechanisms. This is a simple gear transmission. Due to different teeth of these gears, the speed is reduced with torque increased. Chain or belt is another type movement transmission. It could transmit movement in a long distance. Worm gear is a special gear. It can only transmit from worm to spur. The reverse is infeasible. Linkage is a third type of movement transmission. Crosshead is another key element. However, we are familiar with numbers and letters. Only with Binary, it is hard for a robot to communication with us. It is the ASCII code that instructs a robot to recognize or display letters. Program, or called Code, is the body of the algorithm. It is the program and code that instruct Autonomous Cars, Robots and Droids to perform their action. No matter Assembly Language, or Objective Oriented / Procedure Oriented Language; no matter C, C++, Basic, Java, or Visual C++, C#, even Swift, Python… Don’t worry about so many types of platforms and codes. If you master one of them, you will be familiar with others. When working, you only need to decide which code language is asked as the hardware / platform requires and as your preference, even new type code is coming, after learning in a very short time, you will get that new and get done with your program. Different hardware and different platforms support different code languages. Some hardware such as the controller MCU in Camellia Café Model uses language which is very close to C. Windows support a lot of languages, C, C++, C# and Visual C++ are fittest. Visual Studio is their develop tool. Android (based on Linux) phones and pads use Java. And the develop tool is Android Studio. iOS or Mac OS (based on Unix) which is in your iPhones, iPads or Macs use Objective-C or Swift. Their develop tool is Xcode. Welcome to Camellia Café !
  8. Howdy folks. Like many of you I'm sure, I'm taking the time to do a bit of building in the time off between Christmas and New Year. I've come across this little design that I haven't seen before, and thought I'd share in case someone finds it useful. If you would normally be using one of those white 24-tooth clutch gears (that slip after a certain torque is reached) but the torque limit for that gear is too high, or you can't fit the spur gear easily in your drivetrain, you may find this construction useful: Now, I accept that in practice it could be trick to work this into a MOC - the gear can only be supported one one side (unless you put a pin-joiner on the end and extend the axle from that) and a stud away from the support at that. But these aren't insurmountable, and if it's all you have, then you'll make do! On the other hand, it's also useful if you want to _add_ friction to a drivetrain for whatever reason. An alternative to sticking a normal gear on a friction pin. Owen.
  9. Hey everyone! I'm gonna start doing Roblox Gear packs in LDD! They're basically players with gears. Gear Pack 1 includes Jetpack and Stravant's Lightning! If you would like to use them, please credit me first. Comment what 2 gears I should build next! Oops! Here's the file! http://www.mediafire.com/file/bk0tcceu2un0dbk/RobloxGearPack1.lxf Here's the Google Plus post + Image!
  10. I'm just starting out with Lego Digital Designer and have run into a problem putting two gears together. In this LDD file (https://www.dropbox.com/s/d8i55l6dzzdupwl/GearTest.lxf?dl=0) I want to put the bevel gear on the grey beam so that it meshes with the other bevel gear, so it looks something like the image below.. But it won't let me do it, perhaps because one gear needs to be rotated. Any idea how this can be achieved?
  11. I am designing a crank system for my 3D printed music box to turn the music cylinder. Since the music box cylinder is large about 30 cm diameter, the effects of backlash of only a degree or two is magnified. How can I use lego gears to design a crank that increases torque and decreases speed with practically zero backlash? I know I may receive some flack for this, but I am fine with a solution that requires some glue or 3D printed parts or springs, but I would prefer if it was all Technic. Thanks!!!
  12. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  13. I'm back again with another gear grinding issue but this one is a bit less critical. The grinding only occurs when my 4x4 SUV chassis (with Sariel's 4-Speed Sequential Transmission) is in a certain gear. Here's some photos of the chassis. The transmission is shifted to the speed where the nonstop grinding occurs. When in this gear (I believe it may be 3rd) The car is supposed to move, but it does very slowly while clicking noises fire like a machine gun. This is the only time when the gears grind other than, say, if the chassis hits a wall. When the clicking begins, I hear the driving rings shake (which awfully reminds me of the somewhat gear clicking in the Mercedes-Benz Arocs set). I would love a response a soon as possible to address the clicking problem so I can finish the chassis once and for all.
  14. This is my second post on the EuroBricks community and another question asking for as much help as I can get to master the art of the technic gearbox. Like I said in my previous post, for my Lexus GX EV3 4x4 SUV, I tried my best to use Sariel's 4-speed sequential and it ultimately failed on me. Quoting one of my replies... I would be relieved if I could finally finish this creation after five months of difficulty. Here are some pictures of the entire chassis. I said before that the issues with this was that the gears clicked a ridiculous amount at the highest gears which stopped the car from moving. (Hence the reason why the transmission I want needs to have a clutch gear to absorb the large amount of torque)
  15. I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
  16. while trying to learn the program, i found out that it was impossible to connect the gears and to make them work together but at some point, i managed to make the gears interact with each other and work together. the problem is that i'm unable to find out how. can someone explain this to me please? here is the ldd file https://ufile.io/274561
  17. This is my new moc, base on a character in a video game I've just finished the campaign and still so hype about it ....maybe you know ! First ,take a look at his Video ! And this how he look like ! WP_20160117_22_46_49_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr WP_20160117_22_47_22_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr WP_20160117_22_47_35_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr WP_20160117_22_48_58_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr And with 2 psyonic-blades WP_20160117_23_04_09_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr WP_20160117_23_02_17_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr And some more poses WP_20160117_23_00_23_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr WP_20160117_22_53_40_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr WP_20160117_22_52_16_Pro by demon demon demon, trên Flickr Thanks for visiting !
  18. How to Motorize the Mars Rover I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert level building. (No building the rover is not part of the project, she is doing it as an additional part of her presentation on Rovers). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see So, to steer, I use a servo? How do I operate the other things, more servos? And to move things slowly, do I need complex gearing? (I was looking at the SBrick which might work. I saw a few designed steering racks and chassis on Ebay, some simple, some pretty complex. Would I be better off buying another set that has a chassis and steering and drive designed to work with motors and then build it and adapt the Rover to it? Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  19. This custom creation was created with a variety of old and new Technic pieces for a different effect to the final build. Designed by an actual Porsche mechanic and myself. Original: Rework: FInal version:
  20. Hi I am not sure if this has been done before in MOC's but was wondering if there are any MOC, or official set examples of having gears meshed on different planes. This generally applies to bevel/crown/worm gears, maybe gear knobs. Here is an example of what I mean, the offset is an entire 1L, however a 0.5L offset works better with smaller bevel gears. It reduces space significantly. I was also wondering if offsetting one of the gears effects the speed and/or torque. This idea works with the 3L wide differential too!. Regards. Snipe
  21. Hi All I've been working on an rc van using a Raspberry Pi as the control and have decided to incorporate a technic motor for drive and would like to ask for some help and advice. I want to build a simple gearbox/drive in a compact design, but wasn't sure what gearing/design to use? I have forward and reverse control through the Pi/Scratch and it maybe easier to keep it as simple and reliable as pissible, any help/advice appreciated. You can see my project here http://raspivan.weeb.../rasppivan.html
  22. Hi I am working on gear pairs meshed directly together, in a 2 by 2 arrangement. Two gears on each of the two axles - However one gear is an idler gear which is driven by the other gears instead of with the same rotation speed as the motor. However I'm not sure if the ratio for the idler gear will be 1:1 since there is two 16 tooth gear gears in either example I don't think it is 1:1 though it should be what the other two gears are, so say 3:1 or 1.6:1 but I'm unsure as it's hard to tell. The yellow axle joiner goes to the motor, I'm using a differential to replicate a single 24 tooth idler in the first image. Obviously the dark grey gears are the idlers. Any ideas what it could be. More gears can be used with studed beams and plates such as 16 tooth +12 tooth or 20 + 20 or 16 + 20 etc. Regards, S
  23. I managed to break two 12t single-bevel gears in 3L differentials before concluding that trying to use them with an ungeared XL motor really was a bad idea. My question is, how much torque can those gears take (in the 3L differential) before breaking? It's clearly somewhat less than the maximum torque produced by the XL motor, since my gears broke when I was powering the motor with the 7V rechargeable battery and the dial on the battery was (I think) turned to just below the maximum setting. Will two L motors break the bevel gears? Both the official stats and Philo's site show the L motors as having just under half the torque of the XL (though they list different absolute values). On a related note, will the gears survive more torque in an old-style 4L differential when two half-bushes and a fourth bevel gear are added to reinforce them? Thanks!
  24. Hello all, I have never posted on in the Technic area but I need some advice from an expert. I am looking to create a compact way using gears of slowing down a PF Motor speed that will be connected a door. I want to create a motorized door for a Star Wars base. I am going to use a standard Power Functions motor and the 1x4 Tooth Plate for the door similar to the doors of 7666. I need a way of slowing down the speed from the motor as the last time I attempted this the door jammed every time. I hope you understand what I mean. I can give pictures if needed. Thanks.
  25. Hi, I am making a six speed gearbox but I am having significant trouble in enabling the gear lever to slide out of the drive selector clutch and into the clutch beside it. This is fine if the drive selector is set to the middle setting as it lines up with the clutch for the gearbox but if it isnt then it wont be able to without moving back down to the middle position and changing clutches. Any ideas?