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Found 601 results

  1. Hi. This is a continuation of the LDD Buildings theme. I decided to start building a 6WD off-road truck (not too big). I already have some parts (all in Bricksafe).
  2. Hello everyone, I have been in contact with a few fellow eurobrickers and some of them have wanted a truck topic where we can all share different designs for our trucks and trailers. These designs could also include maybe some clever and effecient suggestions to show others how you made your amazing MOC! All forms of trucks are accepted tow trucks to mighty expedition trucks! Post your truck, or gain inspiration from others! For starters I will share mine: A sporty flatbed truck!
  3. Piece count 2193. Price 249.99 EUR. Special part and features: - New C+ motor with horizontally driven axis (like LEGO ® Spike 45602 (Large Angular Motor) - 1 Control+ XL motor, 1 Control+ L motor - Control+ Hub - 2 Land Rover mudguard 15 x 2 x 7 46882 in yellow for front wheels - XL linear actuators - 1 Corvette mudguard 42531 in LBG for dashboard - 3 new differentials, 1 old differential for center diff - Small panels #21 and #22 in yellow - Shell panel 3x7 in yellow - Curved panel 3x13 in yellow Functions: - Driving - Steering - Lifting and lowering bed - Hood can be opened manually Go nuts
  4. Hi guys Recently, I finished another model. It is a tractor unit inspired by Scania S-Series trucks. It has 6x4 drive and suspended axles. The front axle is suspended with normal LEGO hard shock absorbers. The rear axles have rubber suspension which imitates air-suspension as used in real trucks. The suspension at the rear axles is a bit hard but chassis is in return flat. The fifth wheel as a self-locking mechanism so that you can couple a trailer easily. To open the fifth wheel a small linear actuator is used. For steering a PU L motor sits directly on the front axle. For propulsion I used two PU XL motors. But check the pictures and video: Instruction at Rebrickable:
  5. Hi to everybody! It's been a while since I posted something now here we are. Little prefaction, in the last year both time and motivations are dropped down, this Moc was almost ready in may 2017 and it took me a bit to find the desire to do pics video and instructions.....the instructions are not ready yet, but they are at a good point. IMG_2348 by Lucio Switch, su Flickr Now about the Moc, this is a sort of a Dakar Truck, it's a lot simpler compared to my usual Mocs, the idea behind it was to use the Claas Tires, trapezoidal panels...and don't use the parts of my Crane Truck, furthermore, to make it light (or try to do so), I added less details then usual. So it's son of a lot of (personal) compromises. It is driven by 4Xl Motors, 2 for the front axle and 2 for the rear and it's steered by a servo motor. 2 M motors are used to run the pump and to actuate a pneumatic valve. It's powered by 2 Li-Po battery and controlled by 2 SBricks. 6 pairs of Led are used for the lights. One small pneumatic pump, a pneumatic valve and 2 small pneumatic cylinders make up the pneumatic system. The truck has live axles with Anti Roll-bar, the differentials are lockable pneumatically. It has openale door, tiltable cab (with some interior details), and a door in the back to acces the battery. That's all, I hope you like it!
  6. A trial truck with HOG steering, suspension and winch.The suspension and the steering is the same principle as the A-model's one but the chassis is two studs narrower.The winch has a knob on the side and it's easy to use, also it can hold the whole truck.No openable doors but the truck has full interior, and some detailing. 42122 Alternate.
  7. Hey guys, During a chat I was pointed to the Steinwinter Supercargo 2040. I was fascinated by the look and decided to build it. It was designed by the german engineer Manfred Steinwinter. During my research, I found out that he build only one prototype, but planned many more versions. I liked the three-axled version and so started with a rough sketch to get an idea of the proportions: While I was searching for images of that truck, I also contacted the current IP owner and asked for blueprints. Fortunately he liked my project and he send me some. Since then this truck went through many iteration of improvements and design changes. In the end I decided to use Powered Up to control it. This is the current state: These are planned/implemented features and specifications: Current weight: 3kg Length: 86 studs Height: 14 studs Width: 27 studs Power supply: 4x Technic hub Driving: 4x C+ XL motor, each motor is connected to one hub to spread the load (3,528:1, theoretically 0,74 km/h @7,5V @124Ncm) Steering: 1x C+ L motor, two steered axles with Ackerman geometry Compressor: 1x C+ L motor, 4 pumps 3 RC valves: 3x C+ L motor, 3x newest valve one for each the rear axle, front/middle left wheel, front/middle right wheel Angle sensor for suspension on front and middle axle: 2x C+ XL and 2x Boost Medium motors OR 2x C+ XL Angle sensor for rear axle: 1x motor (not implemented yet) Air/pneumatic suspension on all axles controlled by Powered Up double wishbone suspension on fron and middle axle Each front/middle wheel on the left and right side are one unit. That means if the front wheel is pushed up the middle wheel is pushed down. That way the weight is equally distributed on the wheels live rear axle When I decided to use Powered Up I thought about controlling the ride height somehow with Powered Up. To do that I needed something to read the position of the double wish bone arms and the rear axle. Since several motors in the C+/Powered Up eco system can report their position, tried to use them to read the angle of the suspension arm. I successfully implemented that on the front and middle axle. For the rear axle I haven't found a good solution yet, because that axle can move on two axis. While I'm waiting for some additional parts, I'm working on the solution for the rear axle. As for the code, I already made a proof of concept. I created a test setup and wrote some code, which reads the angle of a suspension arm and adjusts it to the desired value. for the finished MOC a can think of something like a parking height, highway ride height and more or less off-road height. Once the chassis is finished the and the Powered Up is working I'll start working on body. Feel free to leave comments, critique and suggestions.
  8. dimka_ya

    [MOC] 5pin trucks

    Hello! I want ot share my car models. Previously designed trucks and cars 4pin wide, I thought that the truck should be wider than the car - whitch means 5pin, since 6pin - its too much :) 4pin trucks can be seen here p.s. If I made a mistake in the section - please forgive me and move the topic to the ride one. Thank you for the attention! Next trucks ( Which is betten - add new models in the first (main) post or in the following comments? ) My topics: micro city + micro village
  9. Model of a lifted pickup truck combining Control+ and Robot Inventor electronics. Features 4x4 drive, 3 steering modes, a V6 piston engine, and full suspension. Functions/features: 4x4 drive Steering with 3 modes (normal, 4WD, crab) V6 piston engine Full suspension Opening hood Opening tailgate This MOC originally started as a side project back in the summer as I was waiting for parts to arrive for my New Flyer XD60 articulated bus model. I was initially gonna use the C+ L motors for steering and power it with the Control+ hub instead of the Robot Inventor one, but found that the Medium Angular Motors from the Robot Inventor set took less overall space in the axles if I place the rack sideways. So for the front and rear axles (which are identical to each other), I put the steering motor on top which drives a rack placed on its side, and used heavy duty differentials and planetary hubs. This gave the model plenty of torque, even without any additional gearing down in the chassis. At the heart of the chassis sits two C+ XL motors for drive and a Robot Inventor hub above them. Thanks to the abundance of pin holes on the Robot Inventor hub, I was able to use it as a structural element. The sides of the hub are covered by panels, as a teal hub on a red/black model would be an eyesore. The top of the hub is covered as well to conceal the screen lights, and to power on/connect the hub I installed levers that hit the power/Bluetooth buttons. They sit just below the cab/bed, and are pretty well hidden/out of sight. The front and rear ends of the chassis were reinforced well enough to withstand the force exerted on the shock absorbers, and the front also has a V6 fake engine driven by a C+ L motor. I had to rework the suspension a few times to make it work well and not be too soft or too hard, but I still feel like it could've been done a little better. Initially I was undecided on the bodywork for this model - I was debating between a car-like body (like the 41999), a cab-over truck, and a pickup truck. I eventually went with a pick-up truck, and initially used rims from the Land Rover. I decided to make the model in a red/black scheme, as I had a lot of black panels lying around but also wanted to give it some color. I feel like the bodywork could've been designed better overall, as the entire building process became pretty discouraging and I just wanted to get it finished. As I was working on the bodywork I just felt like the Land Rover rims weren't the best choice for a lifted truck, so in the end I went with the Technic Racing Medium rims in LBG for a more old-school look. Overall, this is a creation I'm not too happy with. Building around the Robot Inventor hub was quite a challenge as I had to cover it completely to conceal the teal and the screen lights. This also meant the charging port is not accessible on the finished model. The looks of the model also aren't the best. I feel like using a single color for the bodywork would've been better without the red/black color break between the cab and the bed, but unfortunately I don't have that many red flat panels and didn't want to use liftarm stacking. The model has plenty of torque and can easily climb over obstacles, but it also suffers from being top-heavy. Programming the control profile was pretty straightforward though, and the 3 steering modes worked well. After building this model, I feel like while the Robot Inventor hub is a good alternative to the Control+ hub (more ports, lower height, more pin holes, etc), it just feels harder to use in Technic builds, as the teal doesn't blend well with most colors IMO (which could be solved by using the yellow SPIKE Prime version of the hub as it's a more common color for Technic builds, but would cost a lot of money) and the screen lights need to be concealed in most situations. It's obvious the Robot Inventor hub is designed with robots in mind and not Technic builds, so in the future, I plan on sticking to Control+ hubs unless it's absolutely necessary to use the Robot Inventor one (e.g. a space constraint). Photos: Video:
  10. Hey guys! I present my new model, a BuWizz 2.0 powered Baja Truck! It features: Independent double wishbone front suspension, with servo steering and positive caster for better return-to-center Live axle rear suspension, powered by a buggy motor and BuWizz 2.0 My goal with this truck was to make a small, lightweight truck with excellent offroad capabilities and smooth suspension travel, while also giving it a realistic look with the least number of pieces. Overall I'm quite satisfied with the result! Here's a video: And more photos: More photos can be found on the BrickSafe page: Hope you guys enjoyed! -Teo
  11. With my Ripsaw Tank MOC essentially done by now (just waiting for some final pieces to arrive) and my PAB order for my New Flyer XD60 articulated bus model still yet to arrive (with more pieces coming for that), I've decided to start another MOC in the meantime. This will be my second model combining Control+ and Robot Inventor after my Heavy Duty Skid-steer Loader. It will have two identical axles, each with a steering motor (medium angular motor) to control steering, and thanks to their absolute positioning feature I don't think I'll have to calibrate it every time, like on e.g. the 42099 set. I was originally planning to use Control+ L motors for the steering, and have this be a Control+ MOC, but found the medium angular motor to fit better with the absolute positioning being another plus. I plan on creating a control profile in the Mindstorms app with different sliders for normal, crab, and 4-wheel steering modes. The drivetrain consists of heavy-duty differentials and planetary hubs, so this eliminates the need for significant gearing down inside the chassis. For propulsion, I plan to use 2 Control+ XL motors, with a fake engine driven by a separate motor. This way, the fake engine can run at all times and there will be less friction in the drivetrain. I anticipate building the chassis to be pretty straightforward, as the entire chassis is essentially a mirror image with two identical axles. As for the bodywork, I'm leaning towards a red car-like body. If so, I will probably name this MOC "Red Beryl C", where "C" is for Crawler. It would be the third model in my Red Beryl series, after my Red Beryl GT of 2018 and Red Beryl X of 2019. Let me know what you think, and any suggestions you may have. Photos: The front axle, with planetary hubs, long shock absorbers, and a medium angular motor for steering: The front axle, with the wheels attached. Note that this is the underside, with the heavy-duty differential visible:
  12. Here's my most recent "quality" build that I couldn't show off for some time: Feature video: Free instructions on Rebrickable: EDIT: The MOC has landed on Build-A-MOC store as a set for purchase: Render: Photos: Drivetrain? I hope you'll like it :) Check out my youtube channel and rebrickable instructions for more small scale stuff like this.
  13. #79 Shell Tanker Truck 10/22/21 #78 Honda Insight -09/19/21 ]
  14. Simons Brick World

    [MOC] Fire truck engine

    Hello there, this time I would like to present you again a new vehicle, which I have built. Since last time the fire station has already found its way into the Lego city, today follows the first vehicle. It is a classic, american fire truck engine, as you know it from several movies. Very typical with the big bumper and the engine and pump control in the middle of the vehicle. I also made sure to build the whole thing in minifigure scale as much as possible. Also the minifigures find their place inside. As always, there is also a build video to go along with it. Feel free to have a look. Of course, there are again pictures with descriptions of the vehicle below. The fire truck with the typic red lights and the high cabin structure. Also nice to see is the middle part with the control panel for the pumps. From behind you can also see the signal lights for the back traffic. Hoses are transported on the roof. I hope you like the model. Let me know if you do .
  15. Hi All, Although I have posted a few pictures previously, I wanted to make a proper writeup of my Trial Unimog alternate of the Zetros set (42129), because I think sharing the design process is valuable for people around here. Also, I am going to share my thoughts about the set itself as a parts pack. But for the curious ones, here's an action video of the end result and a short summary of the features: Features: - good actual outdoor performance :) - permanent AWD, no differentials - 2-speed gearbox, faster gearing than Zetros - relatively large increase in ground clearance - 4-link suspension on the back, large articulation, soft suspension - 3-link suspension with Panhard rod on the front, slightly larger and softer articulation than the Zetros - opening (and lockable) doors and trunk bed When building alternate models, I always try to build something different from the A model, both functionally and in its looks. So when considering what to build out of the Zetros, keeping the Mercedes brand but going for a different form factor, my first idea was a G-Wagon - quickly taken by Grohl himself. Then I though, let's fall back to a Jeep - also taken quickly by Tim.. Unimog was on my list of potential alternates, but I wasn't sure about it yet. But one thing was sure: I wanted to improve the actual off-road performance over the Zetros. So putting the form factor aside a bit, I started experimenting with chassis and suspension designs. One option I had in mind was to keep the live axle setup, but improve it to make it actually useful for off-roading: increase suspension travel, ground clearance and responsiveness. Furthermore, I wanted to see how lightweight the axles could be built, because the Zetros's axles are pretty bulky. I was okay with doing away with the diff-lock, since I wanted to use the M motor for a 2-speed gearbox anyway (just like others). During experimentation with axle designs and suspension travel, I have realized that the 3-link live axle setup of the Zetros is not only limited by the springs' short travel, but also by the 3rd link on the top. That link cannot rotate sideways on the chassis side and is mounted very high on the axles, and as the axle tilts, its top can move sideways significantly, and as the link cannot follow it sideways, it limits the axle's tilting movement; hence very limited articulation. The setup only works for a short range of movement as on the Zetros, which is limited anyway by the springs, but cannot work for a setup that aims for more articulation. One way out of this is to allow the 3rd link to rotate and follow the side movement of the tilting axle, but then the axle needs fixing sideways. There are two ways to fix that. Either a 4-link triangulated setup, or a 3-link setup with a Panhard rod. Although the Zetros does use a Panhard rod at the front, it is unrealistically mounted and too short, that would cause kind of bump-'steer' for larger axle articulation (not exactly bump steer, but more like shifting the whole axle sideways). So after taking the limited number of suspension parts into account (only 6 towball sockets left out of 10 since 4 must be used for mounting the front wheel hubs, and only 1 6L link available in the set), I opted for the following design: on the rear axle, I used 4 towball sockets for a 4-link triangulated setup with long links, allowing the upper links to rotate sideways and follow the movement of the axle. The springs are attached to the middle of the lower links. This allows for long upwards movement of the axle at the end of the links, and makes the suspension much softer even with the hard springs. Pretty solid and allows for large articulation, just what I wanted. Furthermore, the axle itself is quite slim and rigid, and has good ground clearance, especially in the middle where it's most needed (as proven by my off-road tests). The front axle was more challenging. First off, increasing the ground clearance is only possible with one trick: the towball socket liftarms must be built at an angle, going upwards in the middle, and that limits possibilities. Second, the steering motor and its mounting takes space on the axle, and is in the way for the suspension mounting points. I have experimented with two other options: steering through a driveshaft coming from the chassis, but the placement of the motor in the chassis was problematic do to space required by all other motors and the battery, along with the largely articulated suspension design; second I tried to put the steering motor above the front axle, actuating steering through a linkage system. Although, this worked quite well mechanically (verified with the Powered Up app), unfortunately, the Control+ app itself killed this direction: the app limits the steering motor angle to about a 25 degrees less than the calibrated range, which is normally 90 degrees or motor rotation, resulting in about 65 degrees in case of the Zetros (that's why it's steering is so bad by the way). Now in my alternative steering design, the max calibrated angle would have been 45 degrees, and the 25 degrees minus by the app resulted in about 20 degrees of movement, resulting in almost no actual steering at the axle. Pretty sad that you can build something mechanically sound and then not able to control it with the app :( So I fell back to mounting the motor on the axle, and used the remaining 2 towball sockets for two lower links, which again, I built longer to allow for a bit more articulation. Luckily, I was able to mount the motor in a way that it allowed to use the single 6L link as the 3rd link, allowing free sideways tilting movement of the axle, as it is attached to a towball pin on the chassis end as well. I also experimented with the spring mounting technique of the rear, but it was weak and wobbly on the front without the 4-link setup, so I went back to mounting the springs on the axle. However, I managed to move the springs closer to the center of the axle, resulting in both slightly larger articulation and softer suspension. Finally, the axle is fixed sideways by a long Panhard rod going from one end of the chassis to the other end of the axle, eliminating bump 'steer' quite well even at larger articulation. As a side note about parts, it would be really nice if the set had another 6L link somewhere, for example as a Panhard rod on the rear axle. It could be used to build another 4-link suspension to the front, and also as a steering link in an independent setup (which is problematic to build for other reasons as well). So after sorting out the two axles and the suspension, I though this could be used in a Unimog chassis. Though not too different in form from the Zetros, but at least it keeps the brand. Furthermore, I decided to make it different in its functions: the first step was focusing on a proper suspension. The second was the drivetrain. And that also caused some difficulties. Unimogs are short. You'd think that's not a big problem at this scale, as many RC Unimogs have been built before, but it is with the latest drivetrain parts. The new CV joint with a sliding axle hole is a whopping 8 studs long!! (Compare that to a 3L U-joint; sure, the CV joint has the axle built in on one side, but this construction limits builds quite a bit. Not sure why the new sliding variant needed to be 2 studs longer, I thought it would be just 1 longer, enough for the sliding, which is typically about half a stud, but 1 stud max). So two of those, plus, two non-sliding ones at 6 studs length, and your driveshaft is already 28 studs long. Add to that the amount of space required by the differentials (2 studs on each end until the axle center), and your axle distance cannot be less than 32 studs. Add one more to get a nice odd length middle section, and we are at 33 studs from axle to axle. It is quite long for a Unimog. (As a side note, I tried to split the driveshaft in two halves, shifted sideways in the opposite direction to let them overlap in length and hence make things shorter, but it did not work out due to the axle length limitation of the CV joint part and also space limitations from the motors). So because of this, and other considerations I decided to do away with the differentials altogether. It saves 2 studs in length. It allows for a slightly faster 12T / 20T gearing; the Zetros is just too slow. Furthermore, it allows for larger ground clearance, as the differential does not stick out from the axle. It even allows for a slimmer axle design, as there is more space in all directions, such as for mounting the steering motor. And last but not least: no differential - no need to lock them :) With unlocked differentials the off-road performance would be bad anyway. Once I settled for the length and the drivetrain, I needed to place the remaining motors and the gearbox. I was able to sandwich the gearbox between the drive motors, and put the gearbox's driveshaft motor on top, the flip-flop beams and the frames proved to be very useful for building a strong but lightweight chassis. The final challenge was the driveshaft from the gearbox motor. I am not sure why TLG used this motor here as it is super cumbersome to work with. It needs substantial down-gearing (and the right amount for your actual application, which is 180 degrees final turn for a gearbox, but 90 degrees for a diff-lock), a clutch mechanism for safety and physical end stops for calibration. These all take up space as they need to be routed somewhere. Things would have been much easier with another L motor.. (Maybe to make the set slightly cheaper? Or TLG is trying to get rid of these motors on stock? They don't seem to fit well into the PU system without positional control.) Anyway, finally the chassis of the Unimog was complete. I used the remaining CV joints to connect the drive to the spinning fan in the front :) The rest was just bodywork and placing that big hub somewhere. I opted for roughly the same position in the cab as the Zetros, but with the cables inside, to allow easy access to the batteries for replacement. For the design and styling, I took some inspiration from online sources like this one because of its color scheme, but I wanted to minimize the cab length as there weren't enough panels for a 4-door version. I built the cab with no opening hood to make it solid :) And also made the doors lockable to avoid them opening automatically when driving around.. Finally, the black panels were just the right size and amount to cleanly finish the bed, both the sides and the floor. The bed floor opens (but lockable) to see the gearbox, and to give room for accessing the batteries. I have also added fenders and the usual decoration like the rollbars, exhaust pipe, mirrors, ladders. Here are some renders of the whole build. As you can see, I did not use any green parts, as they would have only added clutter to the otherwise clean bodywork I think. Some more notes about the parts of the set apart from the ones mentioned above. The set has a good amount of paneling and beams and connectors, although the green parts are a bit less useful since they are limited in number and size. Another shortcoming of the set is the available gears. It has all sizes, but their number is lacking in some cases and hence high gearing ratios are hard to achieve. For example if you try to deviate from the default drivetrain, those gears will be missing for example for a simple down-gearing for the gearbox motor.. More images can be found on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. I did not know too much about Unimogs in the beginning, but during the research and designed process I actually came to like Unimogs quite a bit. I like that they are compact but seemingly efficient machines, and the trial versions actually look pretty cool. And I am actually quite happy with the end result. Let me know how you like it and your opinion on the set's parts! Cheers, Viktor
  16. Finally I found the time and motivation to continue the work on my Volvo FH16 6x4. Earlier I got the 2 speed transmission to work by a M motor, raise and lower the rear axle by a M motor, steering by a servo motor and drive back and forward by a L motor. The last few day I got the fifth wheel to work by a M motor and I also fitted the fake inline 6 cylinder motor. I have finally began to work on the cosmetics, beginning with the fenders. Yesterday I changed fuel tank design, I started on the cabine where the rough outline and design is done. I have also chosen that I am using the CADA battery, as it is 2.4 Ghz, have 4 channels and has a controller that I can build on. This battery box have been mounted and all the wires have been routed in a clean and controlled way, with bricks on key places to prevent the wires to go into all the gears. Now all that's missing is the doors, interiors, the front grill and some minor details. Note about the colours, they shall all be coordinated when I am done, some bricks are not the right colour. I think that the black cabine will make many of the details blend into the cabine, hence I am thinking of making it white or red. What do you think, shall I go with black, white or red cabine? Enjoy the pictures.
  17. Legocionado

    Old Memories, New Dreams

    I was 8 years old when I got my first Lego Classic Space set LL918. I remember I spent hours with catalogs looking at LL924 and the Galaxy Explorer LL928. When I got LL928 from my grandma I was thrilled and couldn't let go. I even took it with me on holidays. Galaxy Explorer Dropship by Giorgio Chronas, auf Flickr A few years later I saw the Galaxy Commander in the store. At the time, due to my father's job, I was living in an a developing country in Africa, where Legos were very rare. I was gazing at the store window, nearly paralyzed and probably with a wide open mouth. I had just past my birthday and for Christmas time I would have to wait a long time. As quickly as I could I ran back home broke that piggy bank into pieces, took everything I had and ran back to the store. I still remember the feelings I had when building this spaceship and looking at every new part as if it were yesterday. Galaxy Commander Dropship_1 by Giorgio Chronas, auf Flickr Now, decades later, being an AFOL I still love space topics, specially neo classic space models from other Afols. A few years ago I remember seeing Wolf Leews modernized version of LL928 (and 924 and 918) in LegoIdeas and having exactly the same feelings. I tried to push it in LegoIdeas but unfortunately it did not make it to the threshold. Wolf Leews, if you see this post, thanks for sharing the instructions. I have your models in my showcase ever since. The idea of an own classic space model did not let go of me. It took me again years of thinking how to approach this topic. My problem was I wanted everything. I wanted to have a command centre, several spaceships, some robots some cool versatile and functional vehicles, a garage where the vehicles would go for repair, a habitat, a repair bay for the robots. And I wanted the antagonists as well: Blacktrons! And I wanted everybody to build up his own space station. Uff! Galaxy Explorer Commander Dropship I knew this was impossible. Then my Lego Pueblo came to mind. It was a 4in1 set proposal at LegoIdeas that you could buy multiple times and stack to each other building up your own Pueblo village. My Lego Pueblo did not make it to the threshold but if I did such a concept once, maybe I could do it again. Many months of thinking and planning what to do, which bricks to use, color scheme, how to combine classic space with Blacktron, drawing and doing research followed. Then I started building. The target was a 3in1 space creator set with three different scenarios that you could combine forming a big space centre. Each scenario should have its own theme and its own playability concept. At the same time some models of one scenario should connect to models of other scenarios, so at the end you have one big unity. I also needed a story. As I love sci-fi and astronomy this part was the easiest one for me. What came out was space station "Antares", a 3in1 space creator set, where New Classic Space searches for Legonit ressources and Blacktrons trying to steal it from them. One alternate build is the Mining Outpost, the other one is the Bot Repair Bay and one is the Galaxy Dropship. 9 Antares Classic Space3x by Giorgio Chronas, auf Flickr With the Galaxy Dropship I combined the features of the Galaxy Explorer and the Galaxy Commander and built a mashup that had its own look. Like the Galaxy Commander the dropship can be split into a space fighter and the cargo bay. Like the Commander it may hold a space lab. But it also may hold a space buggy like the Galaxy Explorer. Since the space buggy is from scenario Mining Outpost, I decided it may also hold the truck from its own scenario. Then I continued. The Galaxy Dropship may hold the trailer the fuel or plasma tanks or even a small space fighter which actually is the cockpit of the robot of scenario Bot Repair Bay. The set seems to be huge, too big, but actually it is only big when the set is acquired multiple times. As a single set it has less bricks than the biggest official LegoIdeas set. I hope you like it and support it at LegoIdeas. It is another attempt to bring back some space without StarWars. 5 Antares Galaxy Dropship by Giorgio Chronas, auf Flickr 6 Galaxy Dropship Hangar by Giorgio Chronas, auf Flickr Guys I do not want to bore you too much. Please take a look for yourself at LegoIdeas. Check out the three different video animations (search for "Legocionado" at YouTube) and take a look at the pics of the updates at LegoIdeas (I have made some animated gifs explaining the concept). Here are the direct links: To LegoIdeas "Antares": 2 Antares Classic Space by Giorgio Chronas, auf Flickr To YouTube animated video for the "Galaxy Dropship":
  18. Hello guys. I want to present you my first MOC. I like Lego, I like American trucks, I decided to combine these two hobbies. I was inspired by the legendary Peterbilt 379. Features: opening engine hood opening doors HOG steering with working steering wheel in the cabin V8 fake engine with moving pistons It took me 3 months to work on the model. I redid many of the details several times and it was a very valuable experience. I am happy with the result. Instr´╗┐uction at Rebrickable: P.S. I do not speak English. I use translator.
  19. I had not built something mine since a long time and I started again with hard things. These are tatra axles with ackerman steering and perfect geometry, I achieved this because the two drive axles do not match the steering parts but the price I have to pay is unestable wheels and having to put the transmission up. I always had used only one drive axle but these wheels allow me more distance between them so I am trying. The red gears are for the transmission, it has rubber suspensions but it is only a tatra WIP so everything can change and I already have seen things to improve. The rear axles are very easy to do so I let them for the end. My others Tatras was smallers but the steering system was similar so being bigger this one I think it will work too or not here it is the fun .
  20. This recovery service truck is almost a mini version of 42008 but fully RC for driving. It has manually operated winch and rear wheel lift although use similar parts from 42008. It is a mini because of the length which is half of 42008. The chassis, wheels, color scheme, doors and seats have been changed as well. Thanks for your support.
  21. This building was heavily inspired by a Winter Village MOC by Brick City Depot from who I bought a copy of some instructions from in 2015. (The link to his store's site is here.) I added a back wall to the building, made it look more late 1920's / early '30's by adding painted wooden siding, and removing the Christmas-time items. Also, several items are missing prints in these pictures that would be fixed in real life. Please note: Both these OCTAN models go with my Hogsmeade-style MOCs... and yes, I know that doesn't make sense with Harry Potter cannon. I don't really care, it looks good next to them so thus it stays! The front of the building with the two art-deco gas pumps. The four yellow 1 x 2 tile parts should have warning stripes pointed on them, and the twin pumps should have OCTAN labeling on top as well. This rear portion of the building is new, along with the removable roof section. It's a little crowded inside, with two shelving racks, a service counter w/ cash register, and a printed poster for Radiator Springs on the wall. The gas tanker is a mashup of the truck in set 10222 (Winter Village Post Office) and the one in Indiana Jones set 7683 (Fight on the Flying Wing) and should have OCTAN branding on the sides of the tank. It can seat a single driver figure at the wheel, too. The rear features tank controls and a rubber hose for filling up the gas station's underground tank. Thoughts on this future addition to my expanding small town?
  22. When I got Off Road Buggy set (42124) in my hand and saw new tyres I instantly get idea for new creation. I must make new Tatra truck. The only question it was if would be the 815 model or the new Phoenix. Then I remembered that I made my first version of Tatra Phoenix model 10 years ago and now it is the time to fix the problems of that model... This is my new model of legendary Czech brand of trucks Tatra. The model Phoenix is in trial truck version. This is full RC with Buwizz 2.0 brick and 2 Buwizz motor for drive. These motors make the vehicle very powerful (watch the video). Also the new tires give it good features and appearance. Specifications:-Full independent suspension (front axle hard springs, rear axle soft spring)-Modular desing (chassis, cab, superstructure)-Detailed interior-The door can be opend-The superstructure is not only for the design but also serves to protect the cab from tipping over 360 degree view Instructions are also available:
  23. Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
  24. I've been staring at Hogsmeade Village Visit (set 76388) for a while now (ever since pictures leaked!), trying to figure out how to fit it into my vintage city... I think I may have figured out how to do so now with the added rear halves and removed Winter snow parts. This model's front half was originally from the Honeydukes sweet shop portion of Hogsmeade Village Visit. I added a look-alike back to it, changed the color to red, and turned it into a small post office with inside details on both floors. I also added a truck I built in real life way back in 2011 - modeled after the official Winter Village Post Office truck from set 10222 - which is now back to being used for a postal truck. (I have determined said truck is styled like a Ford Model AA (wiki link) just based on the front end alone.) Yes, the model is missing nine parts not in LDD. This includes four each of parts 48208 and 48205, and one of 35563, all in black for the roof. Inside features are as such: - Ground floor has the public area, with pay counter and several boxes / crates waiting to be shipped. - Upstairs (even though there is no stairs!) is the sorting area with plenty of mail being gone through to be delivered to it's destination. Everyone may have heard of the Ford Model T and maybe it's successor, the Model A. But here is something you may not know: The Model T and later Model A both had trucks made from the basic principles of those cars. They were called the Model TT & Model AA, which is where this Lego model comes in, as it's based off a Ford Model AA truck. (or at least that's what I think it it is - the model was originally from set 10222, Winter Village Post Office.) The rear of the truck has two tail-lights and a license plate. MODEL NOTES: The building can only open 90 degrees due to interference from the roof and building footprint. (The post office will be built shortly after the Polar Express house, and then the heavily-modified 76388 tavern early next year.) Thoughts?
  25. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt