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Found 102 results

  1. Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.
  2. I'm sure like many other builders, I have been enamored with the 15 wide car scale ever since the 42098 Car Transporter came out. I have enjoyed all sorts of little cars by so many different designers, and have made a couple of them myself. The little axle base engines have been fun to see develop in many different applications, and make a great sound. Plus, being not too part intensive makes for a lot of accessible builds. As a longtime Porsche fan, I have longed to MOC some of their cars, but I have not been able to come up with a decent Boxer engine, which is key. @steph77 came up with a nice little design with a 911 designed a while ago, but I wanted another idea. I first came up with a little idea, but it did not save any space from the standard piston parts. And, visually, my eyes were drawn to the crankshaft and mounting, and not to the pistons. But I liked the rotating connectors. So after a little more tinkering, I came up with this: There are three cams on the crankshaft, and an upper pivot for each "piston." Each piston is mounted on the connectors, and swings in and out, as the crankshaft rotates. It's not perfect, but the size is right, and it makes a nice little racket while moving. Naturally, I needed to build a car for the motor. A 911 will happen at sometime, but there are not many Boxsters/Caymans out there, and I have a deep love for both. Also, after building the E30 series last year, I thought another car group would be fun. I stared with a simple mockup, with the engine in place and some other functions, and I like what I had enough to keep going. Steering with HOG is in, as is the rear differential. Then I realized I would need to have a convertible top. This may have been a step too far. I worked on a number of mechanisms using the draft table below. I think this is draft 3 of 8. The top is still not finalized, and might not be for a while. But I have enough of the placement of engine, axles, bodywork, to know the constraints I have for the top. I'll get there, but it may take some time. The idea is to have the HOG on the armrest when the top is down, and manually extended by an axle through the roof when it is up. I tend to build a Studio file when everything is done, but this project is requiring a little more design/redesign, so I have a couple of drafts in Studio now. And this is where the "final" draft currently stands. I'm not sure about the roll bars right now. I love the look, but the part is a little rare. We'll see where this goes. Not everything is working great yet, so if I can't figure it out, maybe I'll just end with only a completed Cayman. I welcome your questions, comments, and insults.
  3. Hi all, I'd like to present my latest MOC of a Star Wars ship that, er, hasn't ever been in Star Wars... Tri-Wing S-91x Pegasus MOC by TeddytheSpoon, on Flickr The Tri-Wing S-91x Pegasus Starfighter is a concept ship that was developed as a collaboration between Lucasfilm and German car manufacturer Porsche's respective design teams. I believe it was originally intended to be in the background of the Battle of Exegol, and the concept art was released to promote the film; although for whatever reason, it doesn't appear to be in the film. (That's only hearsay, by the way, I'm not 100% sure if that's true!) Tri-Wing S-91x Pegasus MOC by TeddytheSpoon, on Flickr The final design uses just over 1300 pieces, and the process was a real mixed bag. The central fuselage came together nicely and I'm very pleased with the cockpit area in particular, but I spent so long trying to find a decent SNOT solution for the wings that I eventually gave up and went with wedge plates. I don't think the result looks too bad though! Tri-Wing S-91x Pegasus MOC by TeddytheSpoon, on Flickr While I think the model is a decent representation of a pretty obscure ship (there's only half a dozen or so pictures that actually exist of this thing), I'll probably continue working on this - I think the landing gear in particular could use some work as it's pretty flimsy. I've also done some experimentation with luminous bricks for the first time, so I will likely do some moody darker renders next to bring them to the fore. Let me know what you think of this strange ship!
  4. ilyabuilder724

    76901 Porsche 911 GT3

    My 23rd alternative for set 76901. This time i used ONLY parts included in set mentioned before to build a famous german sportscar - Porsche 911 GT3. FREE INSTRUCTIONS: https://reb.li/m/140170
  5. Hello everyone, hope you are doing well. I have recently re-visited a model which I started building years ago when I first dove in the world of lego technic. I have made some final adjustments and the model is now complete. It's my pleasure to share it here: 911S 2.4L from the 70's - 1800+ parts - 1:10 scale - air-cooled flat six - 4 speed manual gearbox (an adaptation of the gearbox found on @Charbel's Volcano supercar) - working steering wheel - independent rear suspension - macpherson strut front suspension (courtesy of Gergely's Technic Models on Youtube) - openable doors, bonnet, and engine cover What do you think? P.S.:This MOC shares ~70% of the parts with set 42096 - Porsche 911 RSR. And I have also make sure no blue pins are visible outside. If you are interested, instruction is available here And with the orange F150 fenders available, I'm thinking about building a Targa version too :)
  6. Dodge Challenger is one of my favorite cars. Both, the first generation and the current one, regardless of the edition, always gives me the effect of an uncontrolled wide smile on my face. After Lego released the Technic 42111 Dodge Dom set, which didn't really appeal to me, I lost hope of a 16 stud wide Creator like Mustang. However, in order not to disappoint Dom and faith in the family, the idea was born that it could be built from the 10295 set. In anticipation of your comments, yes I know it is too short. It would be useful to extend it by 2 studs. One on the hood and the other in the cabin. In the middle part it was my conscious choice, but the second one turned out to be an accident at work. Unfortunately it can be seen very much. The second biggest problem with the Challenger is the B-pillars and the roof. I'll not talk about it. Contrary to the Hummer, I tried to make as few compromises as possible and used most of available bricks. There is a steering axle connected to the steering wheel. 16 studs wide. Openable door and hood. A mock-up interior with folding seats. What I am most happy about is the back section, which I had absolutely no idea for when building it. These single-set rebuilds are a lot of fun. It reminds me a bit of the times when as a child I got my first sets and tried to reproduce the models that were presented on the back of the boxes. It seems to me that the fashion for rebuilds came from nostalgia for those times. In my case it is just like that. In addition, creating instructions is something completely new which also gives a lot of satisfaction. The one for the Challenger took me a lot of time and work. Its design is as challenging as the model itself. Technical info Rebuild of the set 10295 Creator Expert Porsche 911 Model: Dodge Challenger SRT Parts: 1247 - also used extra parts Height: 15 studs (12 bricks and 1 plate) Width: 16 studs (19.5 studs with mirrors) Lenght: 41 studs Functions: Opening doors and hood, moving wheels and a steering axle connected to the steering wheel. Instruction: 342 steps on 248 pages. Brickshelf Flickr Instagram Rebrickable
  7. _TLG_

    [MOC] Porsche 906

    Hello Porsche and Speed Champions fans, Porsche 906 aka Carrera 6 is a street-legal racing car from Porsche. It was announced in January 1966 and 50 examples were subsequently produced, thus meeting the homologation requirements of the FIA's new Group 4 Sports Car category to the number. The type would also compete in modified form in the Group 6 Sports Prototype class. For the year of the car's debut in 1966, it achieved numerous victories. The main inspiration came from a plastic toy car which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-106735/_TLG_/porsche-906 It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only a standard vehicle registration plate sticker is used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic front, the side view mirrors, the side air intakes etc. . Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic headlight, lots of solutions were tested before the final one. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use a helmet or small hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Porsche 906 - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 8 by László Torma, on Flickr
  8. Hello everyone, I am really glad to present you my new MOC, a replica of the Porsche 911 GT2 RS. My goal was to built a fast and good looking car, so it has not that much technique inside of it (it just uses one single gear for steering :) ). This model is RC and has the following features: Rear wheel drive powered by 2x Buggy-Motors (top speed is around 12-13 kp/h, in ludicrous mode 14-15 kp/h) Steering powered by a servomotor Working rear lights Independent wheel suspension Opening doors and detailed interior and exterior The car is powerd by Buwizz, so it has plenty of power. Dimensions: length: 35,5 cm | 46 studs / width: 15 cm | 19 studs / height: 11,2 cm | 14 studs Scale: 1:12 The model is relatively small compared to the Lamborghini Sian. Important Picture from the bottom ;). I made some 3D printed wheels and panels for the car. The car with normal lego wheels. You can find more pictures (including some from the building progress) at: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Lukes_Brick_Studio/porsche-911-gt2-rs Comments, suggestions and questions are always appreciated. See you.
  9. From promobricks.de: For € 49.99 you can get a 422-part Formula E Porsche in January. In terms of color, the model comes very close to the prototype with a white-black basic color and a red wing. The details, straight the nose and the upward sloping halo, are probably less well taken. Apparently this model is also equipped with a pull-back motor. Set number: 42137 Name: Formula E Porsche 99X Electric Number of parts: 422 Release date: January 01, 2022 RRP: 49.99 euros
  10. Hello everyone! Im very glad to show my RC Porsche 911 RSR. As always, story begins far far in the past... My childhood dream was to get an RC car... Some time ago I shared with you a Corvette RC mod, and that was the "first step" in my dream coming true! In that project I understood, that a lego car can go a decent speed especially with the Buwizz 2.0. BUT... But the speed uncovered a another problem, that is the lack of control! Lego bricks have too much wobbling... Searching for the solution of this problem in the internet I found several buggy projects with technic bricks that has a positive caster... Ant I instantly understood that the positive caster is the thing I need in my car. Also, I was struggling a lot with gigantic scrab-radius. But in that time all rims produced by lego was symmetric. Finally, the Land-rover set has arrived... And the new rims give me some hope... Now I was going to build a 1:10 scale car. But the Land-rover set itself was a bad candidate for motorization due to it`s mass and a wobbly chassis. Due to the lack of skills in bodywork I decided to modify the lego set. I choose a Porsche 911 RSR set for my needs. One would ask me: why you call this RC mod a MOC? Well, the cassis of lego sets are totally inappropriate for making RC cars - most of them are too wobbly and weak. Moreover I wanted to build a positive caster. So I decided to build a custom RC chassis that will for to the bodywork of the initial lego set. Here is a front suspension. Yeah, that is my first "finished" chassis with suspension. Do you see some unusual ideas? I managed to build a double steering arms in order to make the steering system stronger. Moreover, I made a double steering rack steered with a single gear... On the back I decoded to build a live axle with motors connected directly to wheels: no friction on gears, no weak universal joins... I used the original instructions to check the dimensions! Here you can see the finished chassis - nothing special! I placed several smaller wheels for comparison. I would like to mention, that my first RC car was build with the smallest wheels (the very right wheel on the photo). The main reason why I build a car with small wheels was the lack of power the lego motors have (as I thought back then I was at the very beginning of my lego technic build experience). The main question for now: will the motors have enough power to move this big chassis? I made the first drive, and the car really goes well! Unfortunately I did not make a video, but it was going about 7-8 km/h - that was not a bad speed comparing to the 9398. After finishing the chassis I started the bodywork. Then I build front and back parts of the body (with a lot of changes from the original) I decided that it would be great to have a single body-unit that sits on the chassis on several attachment points. And this is the result: The main reason why I build a detachable body is because I was going to make modifications of chassis! Hope you like my post and the car ;-) Feel free to comment on technical aspects. P.S. one fan fact about this car: this RC car has only one gear! - sounds crazy, isn`t it,
  11. Hello, as you might notice my name is secret... for now! I recently bought my first Lego set in 8 years and I'm excited to get back to my love for Lego. Here is what I picked up:
  12. Hi everybody, new guy here! I'll admit, I've been reading and following Eurobricks for years, more years than I can count fingers on my hand. I officially signed up a couple months back, but have yet to post anything until now. I wanted to have something interesting to show you guys before I did, and now I do (hopefully). Allow me to present my custom LEGO Speed Champions MOC's! First of all, I love the Speed Champions sets. As a car guy and a LEGO fan, these are the best of both worlds. That being said, the designs leave a lot to be desired, which is also part of why I love them so much. I see an opportunity to exercise some creativity and do some hands-on building to make them as accurate to their real counterparts as possible. It starts with widening these models to 8-studs. That makes them too large for City-scale, but improves the look dramatically. Plus, with the added dimensions, you can put more detail into the models and get the proportions of auxiliary features (such as lights, exhaust, grille, etc.) correct. Truth be told, many of these had been in the works for almost a year, the first wave, that is. Most of the second wave is still in the works, though the Mustang and Corvette you see above are almost done. I've been constantly tweaking, retweaking, and fine-tuning my designs and I feel like I'm never fully satisfied with any of them. Some of the cars you see above haven't been fully completed. Some of the other Speed Champions are not shown in the photo because they're still half-built. In time, I will eventually show all of them. Today, I'll be showing one that has been completed to my liking: the Porsche 918 Spyder. With these models, I stick to a few rules that I set for myself: One, use as few of the stickers as possible. Stickers can only give so much depth; therefore, brick-built designs will look more authentic. Two, no custom parts or custom stickers. In the occasion that I do use stickers, I only use what's given on the sticker sheet. Three, no illegal building techniques. I want these to resemble a model that LEGO themselves would put out as a set. The common opinion is that the Porsche 918 is the dullest of the first wave of Speed Champions. I quite enjoyed tooling with this one, and it was actually easier than expected. I ditched the stickers for the front and rear intakes. I used stickers for the badges, fuel caps, and headlights. Technically, I could've gone with trans-clear cheese slopes for the headlights, but it didn't look quite right to me. I'm not a fan of the Speed Champions window/cockpit pieces for doing 8-wide builds. This is a Spyder, so it wasn't too hard to come up with a brick-built substitute. Without the window pieces, I'm now able to fit two minifigures side-by-side. It works because the construction of the sides is relatively simple and not very bulky. Being a convertible also helps too. I went with the brown leather plastic interior because I think it looks very classy. I try to recreate the interiors as accurately as possible. Side mirrors are an extra touch for added realism. This model also features a removable front trunk (frunk?) that can fit a couple of the suitcase pieces. You can see it in the short little video I have below! So, that's it for my first post! Let me know what you guys think! I'm always open to constructive criticism and if you have any alternate building techniques in mind, I'd love to hear about them! Also, please let me know if I'm doing something wrong with regards to posting and/or forum conduct. I'm still learning!
  13. Hello, Forgive me if I'm posting this in the wrong forum, I'm only familiar with the technic forum. I wanted to ask, would 10295 ultimately be available from retailers? I live in the Caribbean and have to order my lego from Amazon US, but I've noticed that 10295 is yet to appear for sale there. Is it that it would only be a lego store exclusive? The US lego site won't ship to me. If anyone can advise me I'd be most grateful. Sorry for being a bit off topic.
  14. I continue my mission to motorize the Creator Expert fleet, have already done a bunch other of them. I always try to make the motorization as inivisible as possible, you should not be able to see any electronics without looking very carefully. As the Porsche is pretty big and heavy I used ad Buwizz and a Large motor geared up 20/12 to give it the power that a Porsche deserves. If you do not need Turbo Power it could also be powered with a cheaper CaDa system. Since the PF servo is so big and bulky, i have used an M motor with a rubberband return to center function instead. Also added 2 pairs of Power Function lights, altough I am not totally happy with the front lights, but this was the best I could come up with. Because I am creating instructions for other to build this, I have not used any rare/expensive bricks and tried to reuse as many bricks as possible in new locations. It only requires about 150 extra bricks and electric parts. If there are interest, I might create Power Functions and/or Powered Up versions later. I have some ideas to hide the IR reciever and there is still space for a slightly larger battery and motor. Youtube video Rebrickable Instructions
  15. LEGO MOC#72-3 German Police Porsche 911 I have modified the previous Porsche MOC to be the German Police version. I also created a stop motion animation story for them. Welcome to take a look:
  16. Alright, so this is my second post on Eurobricks, and my 3rd alternate of the 10220. Here I have a custom Porsche rallycar with some additional features. The "costum" stuff is a huge spoiler and rear seats. If you didn't know, most Porsches don't have rear seats. Functions Opening hood with trunk space Opening doors with nice interior With doors opened, the seats fold down to access the rear seat Opening trunk with flat 6 engine Soon to be on Rebrickable for $2.50 for instruction, search "a1i2d3e4n5" and find this model. Enjoy!
  17. MOC #72 1974 Porsche 911 Turbo 3.0 It is a minifigure scale Porsche 911. After I built the #75895, I was not satisfied with how it looks. So I designed my own version. The hood, doors, and the engine compartment door can be opened. Two minifigures can set side by side. I also created a stop motion video for this MOC. Welcome to take a look :)
  18. This has been my first LEGO MOC, I designed this on BrickLink Stud.io after Porsche collaborated with Star Wars to make their own spaceship. When I first saw their design I instantly fell in love with it, and I thought I might just make that in LEGO. Thanks to everyone for taking a look. Pictures
  19. Hi! I present my entry to the Rebrick Porsche contest, a 962 C Le Mans racecar. In this moc I tried out some newly developed techniques. I was happy that I could finish it before the deadline, many, many working hours, days, "sleepless" nights were required to make it. If I had to choose, the 962 C is my dream Porsche, it exists. A legendary Le Mans racer, the first race car with real ground effect, and a road version was also produced in the nineties. I tried to design everything to represent the real car, both esthetically and in functionality. I put every information, explanation into the video, so here I list the main features: - Full independent suspension, in the rear with rocker arms and angled springs - 4 speed sequential transmission with indicator in the cockpit - Automatic friction disk clutch - works when a gear change happens - Working front brakes with small pneumatic cylinders and air tank - Brake pedal works, too - Openable doors and removable rear cover - HOG steering and working steering wheel - Kingpin inclination, Ackermann geometry - Real boxer crankshaft (instead of 180°V) Details: Antenna, interior, engine, turbos, rear view mirrors, headlights, windshield wipers, fuel caps, fire extinguisher, instrument panel, radiators, etc. Video: Pictures: Gallery: https://www.flickr.c...157668905453474 Hope you like it. Comments, questions are appreciated, as always.
  20. Hi Here is my dream Porsche. It features and combines 3 of my favorite things of Porsche: The front V8 TT engine and front bumper of Panamera Turbo S The 911 shape The RSR look and feel The result is this. Hope you (and judges ) like it Features. 1:10 Scale RWD and Fake V8 engine 4 Speed Gearbox with remote stick Independent suspension in the 4 wheels Working Steering Wheel (No HOG) Openable hood and doors (With lock system) Adjustable seats with gears Big Spoiler (Like the RSR models) Miscellaneous things like hand bag, lights etc. *Surprise feature* Removable V8 engine and transmission like a car About the last feature, well, I'll show it later in another pics and video. (I haven't had time to take more pics) Here are the pics of the last feature Making this function was the most difficult of the model, because it must be work smooth in every gear and I must find the proper joint points in the gearbox to the chassis. Also it must be easy to remove without bending or forcing the rest of the car. After many tests, I achieved it. More pics of the car This photo scream for the bigger Steering wheel (Sadly I don't have it yet) More pics and video will come soon The full gallery https://www.flickr.com/photos/137229326@N08/albums/72157668154949314 Video. The car was completed some days ago, but I decided to post it as my 100 post here, in the greatest Lego community
  21. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. The following summarizes what has been included concerning the gear shifting mechanism: I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). The following summarizes what has been included concerning the drive train: I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering. If there is anything unclear or if you find errors, please let me know. The idea is to make thing more fun, so all should be clear and correct. Thanks to everybody who shared his/her improvements!
  22. Hi everybody! Thanks to the organizers for this contest, I will participate for the first time! I chose the Porsche 911 RSR We are waiting for a detailed car with high detail. Doors and engine compartment open Rear independent suspension HOG and I will try steering control Mid-engine Maybe stickers Wheels 49.6
  23. KMPMOCS

    [MOC] Porsche 935 K3

    Overall I'm quite pleased with it, wanted to brick build the 1979 Kremer Racing livery but that's difficult to get right, so went with Martini livery instead. Just got reminded that this looks like Autobot Jazz too. Thanks for viewing :) KMPMOCS
  24. Hi, I've been working on this project in recent months, and I felt like sharing it at its current state. The majority of the design is based on my favourite car, the Porsche 911 964 RS 3.8. However, as I find it difficult to replicate the front of the 964, I've added a bit of the 911 997 GT3 RSR into the mix. At this point, the content of this post is only related to bodywork as I've always found it very difficult to develop. I've also worked on the chassis in parallel, which contains steering (maybe HoG should be added), suspension, a flat 6 engine, and a manual 4-speed gearbox with linkage. Maybe I will include the chassis in the next post. The front and rear axles are 25 and 27 studs wide respectively. Obviously the A-pillars are still missing, and some parts of the bodywork are still floating. I'm currently considering if the roof should be narrower and tilted slightly, but I guess it will be more clear when I start to design the A-pillars. I'd be very happy to hear some ideas for improvements, things that seem out of proportion and general feedback. Also, I installed BrickLink Studio to make the renders, but I found it difficult to make the 19L flex axles around the wheel arches look natural. Do any of you have some good advice on use of the flex tool in Studio? Best regards, Jens