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Found 82 results

  1. Great Ball Contraption (GBC) - General Discussion and Index This is a topic used for GBC general conversation, questions, hints, tips, etc. This first post will be used to maintain an Index of GBCs here on Eurobricks or other websites. Eurobricks topics LEGO GBC 8 + Building Instructions (5 modules - 2 motors) New Akiyuki GBC Instruction Index Other sources Greatballcontraption.com
  2. To all LEGO train automation enthusiasts, This is a short clip of the final version of our LEGO compatible track switch motor. It has a digital servo embedded in a 3D printed housing. This is a 'plug & play' solution: the motor is strong enough that it doesn't require any modification of the switch (you don't need to open the switch and remove the notch to reduce the force needed to flip it). I also added a picture of the back side so you can see how it can fit onto a LEGO® switch. The housing is made in a custom dark bluish gray ABS filament that matches the LEGO® tracks. The motor has a 6 by 6 stud footprint and it's 2 bricks + 2 plates high. We'll be making controllers for these motors as well, so you can connect them to your PC. However, the motors are fully Arduino compatible, so you can integrate them in you own DIY control system. What do you think ? We're working on a full range of automation gadgets for LEGO trains. What other automation challenges would you like to see solved ?
  3. Please support on LEGO Ideas if you like this project! If you remember those little clockwork robots, which used to be toys and are now prized collection articles, than you will surely recognize my representation! I've been working on this for some time now and I'm proud to say that this robot walks as well as the real thing! It uses two pullback motors, a couple cogs (gears) and 623 LEGO elements to achieve (I only hope you agree ) both good looks and great functionality. The mechanism with the incorporated motors is made to fit exactly into the case and the case comes off all in one piece (I like my modularity). The mechanism for the legs is the most simple thing ever but making it was as complicated as any of my larger MOCs, because balance played such a vital role in all of it. You can still see it wobble as it walks (I find the wobble quite indearing though ) and a lot of work went into keeping it from falling when it does. I like to think this is my best work yet, so I hope you like it just as much enjoy!!! My Flickr gallery
  4. Not really, but I found out that the motors in my GX EV3 peform better in IR Control mode than how they do in my program, and I believe that it is because the motor power is different. Each block in the EV3 programming software that moves the motors has a digit for how much power each motor should have. I'm wondering what this digit is in IR Control mode, because the motors act much better in this mode than how the do in the program. If anyone here knows the power of the motors when the EV3 brick is in this mode, please reply as soon as possible. It would be very appreciated.
  5. Sorry if this goes somewhere else, but I have a question for buggy motor owners. Do you think $100 is a good price for 2 buggy motors, a rc unit, controller, rc unit suspension, and cables, is a good price? And @mocbuild101, @Marxpek, @jam8280, and @TechnicSummse, you may have a new challenger soon... If I get the lot...
  6. This is an early prototype of a 12V style button to control our track switch motors. The button has all the hardware it needs to control the motors, it just needs a 5V power supply (from a brick we're still working on). It has 2 LEDs to indicate the state of the button (the LED on the left is not positioned properly in the prototype and doesn't show in the video). The LEDs are in a hollow stud so you can customize the color by adding a transparent brick. There are 4 studs in between the LEDs so you can add a tile with a label to mark the button so you know what it controls. There are power connectors on the side of the buttons, so if you connect them side by side they can power each other. We're planning on making similar button for the traffic lights, decouplers, etc. For those of you who prefer not to use a computer or want to build a control panel in bricks, is this an approach that would work for you ?
  7. Since i cant testdrive my newest speedracer because of the rainy weather, i decided to clean up my "in progress moc corner" and found this: A as small as possible electric doubleswitch, wich you can use, to control 2 different motors with the same RC output. You can simply select wich one you wanna use. At the same time you can use it to control a gearbox, or output-selector, as you can see in the video. The idea to invent this, was, to realise as much functions as possible in a rc-model, with a limited amount of receivers (in my case just 1 RC-unit). You can use the auxilary output of the RC-unit to control the micromotor, and thus switch between 2 different functions ( for example drive and a pneumatic compressor). The output-selector can be used, to switch for example a servormotors output between steering and pneumatic-switch. "Why so complicated, you could just use the auxilary output for the compressor" -> well... you could do that and beeing limited to the auxilary current limits (~500mA). Also you wont have the gearbox/output-selector then ;) While using this, you can power your compressor (or what ever you want) with the "unlimited" power of the RC-units buggy-motor-output. AND fine-controll it with the 3-step forward, 3-step-reverse-control. It is also possible to control this with the RC-units steering output instead of the micromotor... like that you still have the auxillary-output free for use. How it works: The trick here, is to angle the 2 switches axles by 60 degres (45 would be perfect, but this is ok ;)). But you need to try the right 60 degres angle... only 1 position works, otherwhise you will have 1 motor switched on in one position, and 2 motors beeing on in the other position. The gearbox/ output-selector in the video can be simplified a lot, this is just to show, how it could work. I am pretty sure, there are some more things you could do with it... also with regular power functions ;)
  8. This building was originally the Brick City Depot Winter Village - Victorian House model, while the car is inspired by Carl Greatrix's Rolls Royce Phantom Mk II, remade to look like a MOON motor car from around the mid-1920's. I removed the original house model's snow-and-sloped-plate roof, added a back half with stairs to the upper story, plus a revamped color scheme from medium blue and white to reddish brown, green, and white. Their is even a new front porch for lazy Summer days. The model is of the swing open type, complete with locking Technic pin to keep the model closed. The rear of the model features the chimney flue. The inside of the model features most of my standard details, such as a stove (which is supposed to look like it's hooked into the chimney), couch, vintage phonograph, table with lamp, curio cabinet, and twin-size bed. I have even included a grandfather clock to complete the early 1920's look. This car was originally a Rolls Royce Phantom Mark-II that got transformed into a MOON Touring car. (no, the the jalopy from the Apollo Moon missions, but a vehicle built in St. Louis, Missouri by the Moon Motor Car company) once I realized how close they were to each other in style cues. I guess I did the usual car building process backwards: build the car, then find a real life counterpart, instead pf building the car off a specific type. The rear of the car features the spare tire and license plate. This vehicle can seat one driver mini-figure. The LDD file for both car and house is available here. Comments, Questions & Complaints are always welcome!
  9. Oops, @Milan can you close this topic, it double posted itself. Thanks!
  10. What block and programing I must use, to properly handle management of 5119-1 9V Micromotor, and others ?!!
  11. I created this modified Bucket Wheel Excavator some time ago, and I thought I would like to share it on this forum. After building the original BWE, I wanted to try to incorporate some Mindstorms functions into it. I managed to motorise all the active functions, using both an EV3 brick and motors, as well as some PF motors. Functions can be preprogrammed, or can be remotely controlled using an EV3 IR remote. Here is a list of the functions: Bucket wheel rotation and main conveyor belt - PF XL motor Lower conveyor belt - PF medium motor Boom arm elevation - EV3 large motor Lower conveyor swivel - EV3 large motor Superstructure rotation - EV3 medium motor Driving - EV3 medium motor Since I owned an NXT as well, I used it to motorise the small mining truck that was included in the set. There are also some LEDs that illuminate the 'work area', but they don't really do a good job, its just a nice thing to include. Here is a video of the excavator in action, as well as the mining truck (sorry about the poor resolution and bit rate): More info about the machine can be found here: https://www.us.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/community/robot?projectid=3e125a5b-475c-4a4c-b3ed-e4b4f2192907 Let me know what you think of it in the comments!
  12. 9-Volt Motor Substitutes

    'ME-Models' markets metal tracks that substitute Lego's official 9-volt track, and 4D-Brix reproduces 9-volt monorail substitute parts (including track, motors, plus battery packs) as well, so why has nobody stepped up to the plate and tried to recreate/mass produce motorized 9-volt train bogies/trucks (serial number 590/70358)? A mint one currently goes for as much as 70 USD and used ones go for almost 40 USD, which is ridiculous since that's enough money to buy me food for a week.
  13. Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
  14. To all LEGO train automation enthusiasts, Now that our track switch motors are out, I finally found the time to make a short clip of the first fully functional prototype of our level crossing motor. The main goal was to have a small motor specially designed level crossing barriers. We managed to pack a tiny digital servo into a brick that measures 2 studs wide, 4 studs deep and 3 brick high (16x32x28.8mm). In front, the motor has a 'square stud' to attach the barrier. In this setup I also added a prototype of our 'train traffic light' that I put on its side and added 2 red transparent 1x1 round LEGO bricks. The motor and light are controlled with our nControl software. The final motors would be printed in black, as I assume that would be the most requested color for barrier motors. Let us know what you think. This is not a final product, so all feedback/questions/suggestions are welcome!
  15. Lately I have broken down 3 standar motors, all because of the wires, all my MOCs are very small and the place for cables is always low. How often do you break the cables?, I think that my case is normal, 4 standar motors and 1 XL broken in 7 or 8 years always using the same motors MOC after MOC It's understandable.
  16. I'm working on a range of bricks for Arduino - mechanically compatible with LEGO technic, electronically compatible with Arduino - which I plan to make available in our bricklink store early next year. Below you have a short video with a demo: a servo motor controlled by a rotation sensor, both are connected to an Arduino nano board. What do you think ? What else would be useful? Both the motor and sensor are fully LEGO compatible: Some technical details on the motor and sensor: Motor: 0-180 digital servo housing dimensions: 3 x 4 x 5 studs technic axle connection to motor 4 technic peg connectors on the front 4 technic axle connectors on the sides (2 on each side) Sensor: measures rotation with a resolution up to 1 degree variable resistor 360 rotation capabilities housing dimensions: 3 x 4 x 2 studs technic axle connection to sensor 4 technic peg connectors on the top
  17. Is it safe to use two electric motors connected to one axle? No, that destroys the motor Even you feel it or not. My dad told it and elctronic controling of motors is his professional so he knows what he talk about. He told that the motors will burn up inside of you connecting in paid toghether on one axle. ( three gears, the gear in the middle on Axle and one motor on each side and that is not safe. One is allways working harderr than the other and both motors suffer for that and burns up inside. This is of course power functions I talk about now since it is so unusal to connect to motors in pair, but that is not safe. But it is possible to do it anyway without destroying the motors. A differensial gear between to two motors that working in pair is safe. That does not destroy the motors. But you need a differensial gear between if the motors shall last long and be good long time and do not be destroyd. (Anyway not of that reason)
  18. Does anyone know where to find broken 9V train motors? I searched bricklink and ebay but i didn't find anything. I want to make it in to a custom PF power pickup.
  19. We have been working on a software to design and automate LEGO train and monorail layouts. The first BETA version of nControl is out and can be downloaded for free from the 4DBrix site. It has a track planner for train and monorail layouts and has the first elements of the automation simulation: track switches, traffic lights and sound effects. We also have 2 YouTube videos to get you started. Download link: https://www.4dbrix.com/downloads Getting started videos: https://youtu.be/wddnCAJZTlQ https://youtu.be/w2RDMXt1sgQ Let us know what you think; any feedback, suggestions or ideas for additional features are welcome! Lowa
  20. Hi guys, I admitted defeat on TC10 since my chassis won't allow me to connect any real bodywork to it (I know I give up too easy), so instead I decided that I wanted to try and reverse engineer gsia16's citroen saxo rally car! However, with the regular 9v non rechargeable battery pack, the motor will go for a short amount of time and then just slow down or stop completely, inching forward a millimeter at a time and straining the battery. I wanted to ask if this is the fault of the battery box not giving enough power, or the motor just being "old" (it's part of the 8287 set) I've searched around but can't find an answer (perhaps im not using the right search terms or something) anyways, if it is the battery, could I use a 7.2v NiMH from a RC car? (for example one of these) if so, that could provide a lot more power to it (more than the 9v lego pack could) and make for an interesting ride, provided it won't fry the receiver (that's my other worry about it) What do you guys think? would the buggy motor get a new lease of life, and would it still be able to power an M motor for steering? Thanks, -ender
  21. First off, I just want to say this set is apparently VERY popular, (and for very good reason!) as I tried in May to get one and the LEGO store was out for a long while. I finally got the second-to-last one on double points VIP points day on the 7th of this month. The following post is not a perfect analysis, but I thought I'd show off what I did to the contents of this set as no reviews are out yet.... though this is NOT a review! This vessel is a slightly modified set 30152,( Weekend Getaways). I removed the tall poles serving as radio transmitters / receivers plus I added a surplus reverse tile to the bridge's computer to keep it stable. The inside is the same as the stock set, with cup rack, stove, sink, tables and chairs. The rear porch and front bedroom are also the same as designed. The ship is incredibly light - more than my similar sized Adventurers tugboat and I would highly recommend it for it's play-ability and cool looks. The rear awning just oozes coolness, and is the one spot where I screwed up. (The fabric holes are just big enough to go onto the pins, not between them and the frame as I originally thought. I nearly tore it taking it apart again, but luckily I did not!) This model was made from leftover parts of set the C model of 30152 (Weekend Getaways) and several pieces from my own LEGO collection. I modified the original design to have four lights for navigation and a gray engine instead of a white one as used in the set. The model seats one figure and has barely enough room for a single standing passenger. ....that's about all I have in regards to this set comments-wise. As always, Thoughts, Comments, Questions and or Complaints are welcome, but please try to be kind! Thanks again for reading, Murdoch17
  22. Hi, I have probably a 20-25 year old motor that only on the straights jitters/loses connections and looks to be slightly bouncing. The track is clean because other motors work flawlessly on it. I am wondering if I need to take it apart or if something could be warped. I'd rather not have to buy another $50-$80 motor for my metroliner if I don't have to. Thanks -RailCo
  23. Hi all, Just made a LDD file of my design of a M-motor track switch. Some inspiration from around the net, but for people looking, here is a solution. LDD File. M Motor switch track design Switch track goes between the red tiles and the rest. This is for a left-side switch track, mirror for right side. Have fun.
  24. Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axel to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the circlip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently prise the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
  25. Due to the XL size of this car the placement of larger panels across the width of the car was possible. This really gave the vehicle a unique styling. I was able to use the large red panels for the interior and the black panels at the bottom rear of the car. Inside are 2 XL motors for drive, servo for steering, and 1 m-motor for the motorized suicide doors. The weight was so excessive on the shocks I had to put an extra strong shock on each axle bringing the total to 12 shocks. Still, the frame barely misses the ground. Framework was completed 100% from scratch, with a fake inline 6 engine. Check it out! Brickshelf link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=563502 https://www.flickr.com/gp/139930963@N04/0dHU77