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Found 127 results

  1. Great Ball Contraption (GBC) - General Discussion and Index This is a topic used for GBC general conversation, questions, hints, tips, etc. This first post will be used to maintain an Index of GBCs here on Eurobricks or other websites. Eurobricks topics LEGO GBC 8 + Building Instructions (5 modules - 2 motors) New Akiyuki GBC Instruction Index Other sources Greatballcontraption.com
  2. Watch the Footage The Mecanum wheel is an omnidirectional wheel design for a land-based vehicle to move in any direction. The Mecanum Wheel is based on a tireless wheel, with a series of rubberized external rollers obliquely attached to the whole circumference of its rim. These rollers typically have an axis of rotation at 45° to the wheel plane and 45° to the axle line. When spinning generates a propelling force perpendicular to the roller axle, which can be vectored into: + a longitudinal component + a transverse component Minions use Pulse Width Modulation technology to adjust the speed of their vehicles. Minions change the running direction of each wheel or motor with H-bridge technology and control the movement of their vehicles by combining different wheel directions. Camellia Mini could control all motors synchronously, which keeps 4 Mecanum wheels changing direction or speed simultaneously, thus making the vehicle perform perfect omnidirectional running. www.camellia.xin Copyright © Camellia Café 2016-2021 Camellia Café and its LOGO are registered trademarks.
  3. Hi all, since it's now published on Brick Model Railroader group, I can finally present also here in EuroBricks my second entry, this time in "MOW vehicle" section: You already know it from the WIP thread - it's a small little patchwork of two Fiat 600T/850T vans and a FIAT 500 499,5cc (21HP) motor. Here's the full story! And here's some bonus content!!! Presentation for Octrainber ends here , but there are some other photos: Transmission is on only one axle, as in the prototype, and it's using (again!!! ) the twisted rubber band transmission. The battery is a 200Mah Li-Po, connected to a small circuit in order to charge-discharge and manage the output to the motor. It can be recharged with an USB Adapter (in this case a serial to USB adapted I had at home). And two videos, showing the rubber band transmission and a small track with the 500 in action! https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/51670350725/in/album-72157720126403108/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/51673059120/in/album-72157720126403108/ I hope you like it! Ciao! Davide P.S. for reference! For more information, please refer to this site (it can be translated) https://scalaenne.wordpress.com/2017/07/29/draisina-fiat/ and to this video, showing a restoration of the Fiat 500 Draisina - which inspired the Giovanni and Giorgio story (Italian only, sorry, maybe it can work with subtitles) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7vwRs0Akkk&t=211s
  4. I bought a set from bricklink a while ago and tested out the electronics, only to find that they were acting really strange. I'll try to explain it is as clear as possible but i may mess up a bit. So the set came with 4 motors, one of each kind, XL, L, M and Servo, and these all work perfectly fine on my own battery packs and recievers. But now i hook them up to the included recievers, so XL on red, L on blue, but then only the XL motor works. Now i'll switch them arround, but yet again it's only the XL motor that works, but now on the red channel. The L motor does function correctly when hooked up to a different reciever or straight to a battery pack. Further testing shows the XL motor works on all my recievers, both red and blue channels. The L motor works on 2 out of 4 recievers but only on either red or blu side, not both sides on the same reciever The Servo motor worked on none. And the M motor worked on 3 out of 4, also on just one side per reciever, either red or blue. And again all the motors work directly on the battery pack, or when hooked up to known good reciever. So what's going on here? How does one motor work on a reciever, but another does not? Can i throw away the motors or are the recievers at fault here? It's really frustrating because i am in the midst of making a deal with the seller aswell, but i can't without knowing exactly what's broken. It's like the recievers are picky in which motors they want to actuate and which ones not, but how's that even possible?
  5. You can find a sneak preview od the 3D printed sample on our IG: https://www.instagram.com/p/CLAKIt3B0PG/ Performance is around 10% faster RPM and torque compared to the 5292 motor (cca 20% more power). The polyfuse protection will be increased from 0,9 A to around 1,35 A - still testing the balance between performance and longetivity. Improved attachment possiblities, everything fits as it should in the studless building system The final version color will be between LGB and DBG. It will come with a 30 cm long PF cable plug, so it's compatible with BuWizz 2.0 and PF. Preorder here: https://buwizz.com/shop/buwizz-motor/ More info when it becomes available.
  6. Pelzer117

    (9V) RED train motor

    Hi everyone, I know I am asking for a "non existing" part, but I want to create a collective thread for this topic. Maybe someone will find a way.. I am not sure any more because in realitiy this part should not exist, but I can swear that somewhere I saw a german loco (BR 51 or 53) with RED side covers for the 9V motor. Sadly the only thing I found was a "dark red" or "brown" version, what is in fact on a chinese (AUSINI) train. But it depends on the photos. At some pictures it looks like more red then brown: Interesting is the video, where the motor is dyed (not painted), maybe this could be a way to "create" a red train motor. 9V Red Train Motor (dyed) I also thought about to convert a 12V motor into a 9V or PF motor (because of the red cover of the 12V). Did someone tried this out?
  7. Hi everyone, I'm searching for the best motor to measure angles. Since I don't have all motors, I'm depended on those, who have them and could a comparison. Requirements: The motor must be compatible with the C+ Technic Hub, used for example in the 42100 The resistance, when turning the motor manually, has to be as low as possible When the motor is turned manually and you stop turning, the motor should not continue to turn with too much swing. 2. has more priority than 3. I have tested the C+ L and XL motor so far. I also have the large angular motor, but it is simply too large. The internal resistance of the C+ L motor was way to high. The C+ XL motor delivered quite ok-ish results. It is just too bulky. Perfect shape and size would be the Medium Angular Motor, which I don't have. Another alternative would be the Boost Medium Linear Motor. I would appreciate, if someone, who has these motors, could do a test for me. A little teaser why I'm looking for this info: I'm building a truck with pneumatic suspension. I using the angles of the suspension arms to detect and control the height. First proof of concept in PoweredUp is already written and working.
  8. I converted the 42121 Heavy Duty Excavator to a RC version that can be driven and moved. * Instructions are being distributed by Recrickable. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-69683/Seo-onDaddy/42121-heavy-duty-excavator-full-rc-mod/#details * A 4-port receiver such as 'MOULDKING' receiver or, 'CaDA' receiver or 'Buwizz' is required, and case separation is required.'MOULDKING' receivers do not require any work other than case separation.The 'CaDA' receiver or 'Buwizz' must be removed from the case and the battery must be replaced in a small size.Battery size should be less than 14mm x 25mm x 50mm. * I modified some parts of the exterior because the space was cramped. * fixed the range of operation of the arm operation.
  9. One of my NXT servos is exhibiting some odd behavior. I had to replace a servo for a different reason and this might be the replacement, but I'm not entirely sure as I didn't mark it as such. In any case, I'm curious if anyone else has seen this and knows the cause. With two servos that act as expected, I can place a single Move block in the program and use any of the duration settings and both servos will run and stop when programmed or run continuously if "Unlimited" is selected. However, when one servo is replaced with the misbehaving one, regardless of the duration setting, the latter servo will run continuously and the good servo will twitch as if it's about to run, but stops immediately. I have to end the program to get the "bad" servo to stop. If I place the Move block inside a Loop set to "Forever," the above behavior will be identical except for one scenario. If I set the Move block duration to "Unlimited," both servos will run and can be controlled by the Loop's "Control" setting, i.e. they will either run continuously or run and stop as set by the loop control setting. Simply using individual "Motor" blocks to control the servos does not solve the problem. There are good and bad programming scenarios with those as well with regard to the bad servo. The best guess I can come up with is that the bad servo is either not sending or not receiving a feedback signal, maybe both. I did wonder, though, if these servos have any firmware in them that might behave differently depending on when they were made. This isn't a fatal flaw as I can use the servo, but I am curious what might be going on. Thanks, Paul
  10. Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
  11. https://youtu.be/UFPNWZeeXQw Lego Pneumatic Engine. What is it? How to make it? The first it needs to finish Lego fake cylinder like in this video https://youtu.be/HcHneyewATE or https://youtu.be/0aZvWva41Ek. The second - to add o-ring to Lego piston like in this video https://youtu.be/wZu-l32Dajw or .
  12. thic_trains

    Narrow gauge motor system

    Hello, I'm a huge train fan and have a section in my city where I have e a narrow gauge. Does anyone have a File or instruction file for a chassis? I really need one as I am very bad with the technic system. also, If you want, just send me a pic of the underside. I will figure it out from there.
  13. I put together a super-fast mini rc chassis. It has buggy motor geared up 20:16 for drive, and servo for steering. Lipo and v2 receiver provide power. It goes a measured 17.5 KPH (11 mph). So I was wondering if anyone built anything faster. Video:
  14. Hello everyone ! So I spent 1 month building an entirely functionnal Kit-Cat Clock with Studio. It's not totally finished yet because I would l'll need to buy the parts on Bricklink for making it IRL, but it's theorically viable. I already submitted the project on Ideas and will update the design as soon as I buy the pieces. Do you guys have any tips on the mechanism for making it more reliable ? If you are interested you can support my project here ;)
  15. For long, I've wanted a small strong mini Lego Technic motor, smaller than an M-motor. As I recently learnt how to draw Lego parts and had the opportunity to use 3D printed nylon (using laser sintering) , I decided to try a small motor as well. As the PU motor stuff is getting big and heavy, this is my response: a small easy-mountable motor with a case of only 5 by 2 by 2 studs. 70% of the motors in Lego Technic models don't have to be large. Only the mount of this tiny motor is 2x3 studs. The mount is tailor made for Technic applications: if you build often with M-motors you will know that an M-motor always must be connected to a 1L beam to ensure that the gears won't slip and to mount the M motor securely. The mount design of this new motor eliminates the need for the beam, so that's one stud saved already. Because the motor is only 2 studs wide, 3 mini motors can be in the space of 2 M-motors. Also, 3 mini motors take up the space of one XL motor.. The exterior design is derived from a PF M-motor, because I like the design and want to keep using the PF looks. This is still a work in progress as I need to mount a 9V connector and insert the inner electric motor(already in stock here). I also need to do some more painting and sanding. Nonetheless, the printed parts are quite accurate. I will give an update soon when the motor is working. The motor gets internal electrics that work up to 12V so also third party remote control bricks will be allowed to use their boost modes. My big hope is that TLG understands that we need small motors and remotes, not big ones. The length of 5 studs makes this motor very easy to put in all kinds of leftover spaces. Thanks for reading. I'm open to design improvements!
  16. Hi, a few weeks ago I started a tutorial series on youtube. It's about how to program the lego powered up hardware with the Powered Up App (Lego Boost, lego Control+ and the wedo 2.0 sensors are part of the powered up hardware). The complete tutorial is 100% free. So far most of the stuff is pretty basic but it will get much, much, much more complicated later. I promise that ;) (People that saw the german version of the tutorial might know that already) There will be a new part each wednesday.
  17. Trainaud(LegoRailCreaties)

    Train moc speed problem

    Hello everyone While I was testing my HLE 21 Locomotive moc, I noticed that the speed seemed very slow. It uses 2 L-motors that are gearend with a 20 tooth gear and a 12 tooth gear. This is then connected to another 12 tooth gear that drives the other 12 tooth gears connected to the wheels
  18. Hi all, here's a video I did where I use a 10 level torque gadget I created to run some torque experiments to help improve my automatic gearbox designs. Hope you find it interesting.
  19. Hi all, I have created a video of some generic torque and power insights in relation to trying to create a high performing 2 speed automatic gearbox for a vehicle. The most interesting insight for me was the realization of an optimal operating point for electric motors to achieve maximum output power from the motor. I also derive the power distribution of a split path torque transfer design, and demostrate some experimental results using it. Hope you find it interesting.
  20. duifkelego

    9v powered up hybrid

    This weekend I challenged myself to upgrade a 9 volt train motor with powered up functionality. The result can be seen in the attached pics. I discovered that the train motor only needs 2 wires connected to the hub to actually run , only the 2 PWM signal wires. , or pin 1 and 2 on the connector. This enabled me to used the other 4 wires for power transfer from the wheels to a bridge rectifier and a 7809 voltage regulator before feeding it back into the hub. The track is powered from the switch port of the 12 V speed regulator. which puts out 16 volt.
  21. Hello does anyone have any advice for building custom pull-back or clockwork motors using technic pieces? I’m trying to build one for a custom armoured train since I don’t have the money for all the fancy motor pieces. Thank you
  22. To show off engine I've built for TC18 entry constructed this mini-MOC - an engine trolley. Moves like a real one where paired wheels have 360 degree rotation, so it is easy to steer and place an assembly.
  23. Hi. I would like to make a shout out for this company: http://www.aquabrixel.com/_en/ They have launced a fluid pump compatible with Lego pneumatics. Does anyone have experiences with them? http://www.aquabrixel.com/img/pump_video3.mp4 I really like the idea as it is something I always have considered trying to make the pneumatic system less jerky. I would however use a thin silicon oil rather than water... -ED-
  24. “Everything that happens once can never happen twice. But everything that happens twice will surely happen a third time.” If there is one thing at BMR that this could apply for, definitely now that September is coming to a close, it would be the month of OcTRAINber. And yes, just like last year, we would like to announce that this year there will indeed be another OcTRAINber building challenge! Just like last year and the year before, OcTRAINber isn’t just a regular challenge, it’s a themed challenge. Two years ago it was all about ridiculous long trains, last year it was all about foreign trains, and this year the challenge is… The Technic Challenge! As you know, OcTRAINber is all about building outside of your comfort zone. Ofcourse, all of us motorize our trains, be it with PUP, PF, IR, 9V, 12V or anything in between. But in real life, not only the wheels move. There is so much more going on in trains and trackside structures that moves around, or wiggles, or turns, or whatever it does, as long as it makes a movement. So, for this year, we thought it would be fun to challenge our Lego Train community to come up with as much train-related stuff that makes movement, other than just the regular motorization of a locomotive. And, different than the last two years, this time it doesn’t have to be a train, it can also be a trackside structure! As long as it has a form of movement not necessary to let it run on the tracks, you are good to go! Rules As per tradition, we won’t tell you as of yet any of the specifics we will use to score builds until October 1st, but, as per tradition, we will give the general rules that are necessary to enter your builds and start planning! “Moving” is defined as: A movement of any locomotive, rolling stock, structure, or other railroad-related item that is NOT indented to propel the item forwards or backwards on track. Of course, the item can have these movements (we even recommend doing this, because static trains are soooo boring), but you will only be scored on extra movements, like doors opening, or running vents, or a moving telehandler on a goods dock… So, you can enter your newly build Acela Express, and it can be 9V powered, but it needs to have some extra modes of movement included as well, otherwise we will disqualify your entry. I’m sure you get the point. Entries must be original models. No stealing. This also means no MODs, only MOCs. We are making no rules for the scale you choose to model in. We are welcoming models of 6, 7, and 8 studs, and anything in between or beyond! However, we appreciate detail and accuracy. Reasonably sized models are usually better for that, but we don’t knock anything or anyone with serious skill. NEW BUILDS ONLY. We are willing to accept anything unpublished or anything that was not published before September 1st 2019 as new. We want to inspire and promote a challenging build, entering an old model doesn’t quite work in that regard. Entries MUST be made on our Flickr group in the appropriate thread. This is the ONLY place we will be looking for entries, nowhere else. Sending photos to us on social media or showing us in person do not count as entries! We will be accepting entries from Midnight on October 1st to Midnight on November 1st (meaning October 31st, at 23:59 PDT). There is possibility of a grace period to ensure those that need that one final Bricklink order have a fair chance. Entries and Prizes Keep in mind that OcTRAINber is a ‘quality over quantity’-building event. This means that we rather encourage you to build one amazing build than several sub-par ones. That’s why, just like last year, we will restrict the number of entries to only one per person. We are not accepting digital entries this year to emphasize the spirit of the challenge. We haven’t finalized on prizes yet, but since this is a building challenge, we will for sure have some, just like in previous years. Just like last year, we want to encourage you to show off your WIPs this year as well, to make OcTRAINber really a month that is all about trains within the Lego community. Therefore, extra credit will be given to the best WIP stories and/or pictures during the event. Specific information about WIP points will be mentioned in the kick-off article, but the rules will be pretty much in line with last year’s event. We will pick the winners after we have announced the official close of the competition and have stopped accepting new entries, which will be some time after November 1. Once the judges (who, just like last year, will be announced in an upcoming article) have come to a sound conclusion regarding the winners, we will post one final article announcing them, and then we will be in contact with those winners regarding their prizes. So, that’s it for now. We are very excited about this years’ installment, hopefully the same goes for all you train-heads out there! Stay tuned for updates on the start of the challenge, the judges and the scoring when OcTRAINber starts on October 1st. So pack your gear and all aboard OcTRAINber! BTW: For more information and extras it's always wise to check out both Brickmodelrailroader.com, our Flickr and our Facebook, but we will ofcourse try our best to also answer your questions here on the famous Train Tech forums!  ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As we announced a bit over a week ago, this year BMR will again run the OcTRAINber contest. OcTRAINber is a contest meant to get outside of your comfort zone and build something you haven’t thought of before. You know, that one truly special build that will spice up your layout like no other has before. All within the realm of Lego Trains, but with a twist. So, let us officially introduce you to the contest and let’s get rolling! OcTRAINber First of all, the name. It’s called OcTRAINber, if somebody had not noticed after two years. Why OcTRAINber? Well, because it’s a great intermediate month between SHIPtember and November. Also, TRAINS. Mostly TRAINS. TRAINS. “The Technic Challenge” Second of all, the subject of this years OcTRAINber. Why the Technic Challenge? Two years ago we had a ‘build your longest’ theme, and last year we were all about ‘building that foreign dream of yours’. Both of them produced some really nice models, but, in essence, they were all static. Yes, some of them were motorized, and yes, some of them even had very fancy motorization that not even us had thought of before. However, in the end motorization was just a nice have-to, not a requirement, which is strange when you think about it. Therefore, we have decided that this year everything is forced to move. The more movement, the better! The Rules The Rules have already been announced in the previous OcTRAINber post, but for completeness’ sake we have pasted them here again: “Moving” is defined as: A movement of any locomotive, rolling stock, structure, or other railroad-related item that is NOT indented to propel the item forwards or backwards on track.Ofcourse, the item can have these movements (we even recommend doing this, because static trains are soooo boring), but you will only be scored on extra movements, like doors opening, or running vents, or a moving telehandler on a goods dock. So, you can enter your newly build Acela Express, and it can be 9V powered, but it needs to have some extra modes of movement included as well, otherwise we will disqualify your entry. I’m sure you get the point. Entries must be original models. No stealing. This also means no MODs, only MOCs. We are making no rules for the scale you choose to model in. We are welcoming models of 6, 7, and 8 studs, and anything in between or beyond! However, we appreciate detail and accuracy. Reasonably sized models are usually better for that, but we don’t knock anything or anyone with serious skill. Also, the building of Train-related builds which aren’t trains themselves (trackside structures etc.) is stimulated, so no need to even join the 6 vs 7 vs 8 wide wars this year! NEW BUILDS ONLY. We are willing to accept anything unpublished or anything that was not published before September 1st 2019 as new. We want to inspire and promote a challenging build, entering an old model doesn’t quite work in that regard. Type of Entries Unlike the previous two years, we will only accept real-life builds this year. This has everything to do with the subject of this year’s challenge. It’s just virtually impossible to show movement in digital builds, and to prove that it actually works. To level the playing field we have thus decided not to allow digital builds. However, we will have to separate categories of Entries: Direct Drive and Indirect Drive. To explain this a bit further: Direct Drive entries are entries that are/could be driven by a separate motor that is specifically meant for that moment. So think moving crossing poles, a truck that runs around, waggling ducks, a moving carousel… You name it. The Indirect Drive category in the other hand is meant for entries that move around because of a movement that is already happening. So think a train that is already running around due to it’s train motor, but that has some movement that is kinetically powered and only moves when the train moves. Does your Entry have both? Well, then you are in luck and you can enter it in both categories! That’s just a gesture from us here at BMR to stimulate some extra movement :) Third party parts BMR has always been positive towards third-party parts, as long as they have any way of added value to the hobby. So the rule of thumb is simple: Lego: Yes Third Party Parts meant specifically for use with Lego: Yes* Clones: No *Other than the previous years we have made some extra specification to the Third Party Parts. All Third Party Parts this year have to be meant for use with Lego. So BuWizz, PFx Brick, sBrick etc. are allowed, but Arduino and Raspberry Pi are not. Rule of thumb: If it has studs and/or connectors to one of the Lego electric systems, it’s OK. If not, it isn’t. Points Points will be awarded in three categories: Credibility, WIP Story and Movement Factor. First of all, credibility of the prototype. This means we will be looking at how much the build represents the real life prototype. This means the quality of the build, but potential scale etc. If you are sending in a fantasy model, we will look at how credible the build is; would it fit in, does the backstory make sense? (Please note that this means an entry does need to be based in the real-life in some way, so no fantasy universes like Star Wars, etc.) Second of all, the WIP story. This refers to both showing off your building process, but also to how and why you decided to model a certain prototype. The better the story and the more updates you give and the more elaborate your building story is, the better. (Also, feel free to cross-post these pictures in our WIP-thread while you are still building!) Third and last, the Movement Factor. This is all about the how of the movement of your build. So, is it powered in a special way, or does it have some crazy movement, or does it have some special functionality, etc. The more the merrier, but as always with OcTRAINber, it’s about quality first, and quality second. So it’s great if you have some wobbling pigeons, but if one of them also flies up and down… that could definitely add some points. The Judges This contest will have four judges. Why four? Well, because last year we also had four. Just like last year we will have a guest judge related to the building contest. This year our guest judge will be none other than Peer Kreuger, better known as Mahjqa, one of the most well-known technic gearheads out there. Almost (if not all) of Peer’s builds have some funky motorization in them, which time after time surprises and makes his builds even more fun. We are delighted to have him and we hope it will give you guys an extra incentive to build! Glenn Holland Cale Leiphart Gerbrand van den Eeckhout Peer Kreuger (This year’s guest judge!) Timeline We will be accepting entries from Midnight on October 1st (being right now!) to midnight on November 1st (meaning October 31st, at 23:59 PDT). There is possibility of a grace period to ensure those that need that one final Bricklink order have a fair chance Entries Entries are to be sent in ONLY via our own BMR Flickr! There are two discussions; one for the Direct Drive Entries and one for the Indirect Drive Entries. This is the ONLY place we will be looking for entries, nowhere else. Sending photos to us on social media or showing us in person do not count as entries. Next to that, please also add your pictures in the pool! Also, we have a special thread for WIP pictures, just to keep OcTRAINber going. However, do keep in mind that pictures in this thread don’t count as entries! The Prizes No contest without prizes! Just as last year we have some really nice prizes from several outlets. Which prizes specifically will be made public as soon as possible, so to keep the hype train running for a little bit longer! Spare Parts We here over at BMR are very, very excited about OcTRAINber 2019: The Technic Challenge and we are looking forward to all those entries. We are really looking forward to see what the community has to offer in terms of creativity and we hope that all of you will be stimulated by this contest to finally build that one amazing moving MOC that you always wanted to build, but never managed. Also, if there are any things that aren’t fully clear, you can always reach out to us by posting your message below. So pack your gear and get aboard OcTRAINber!
  25. This is a 1:8.3 scale Technic MOC car I am making powered by EV3. Things have been going well until I ran into some space issues with some Large Motors. I wanted them to be vertical, but they were too big, so I'm trying ways to get more space so the motors won't be very visible when I build the exterior. In the right picture, I positioned the motors at an angle to save space, however it may make the rear too long. The maximum room I have (according to blueprints) for the motors is 2.5 inches away from the rear wheels, so I need to save a lot of space or I have to expand the rear. All in all, I have to position the motors where they are not too high or not too far from the rear wheels. I'd thought I post this issue I have because I wonder if there is any other better way to do this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.