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Found 68 results

  1. Then I realized, that this chassis behaves really well, and started thinking about it as about my new Overland Expedition (or Kostky Trophy) truck. (later I got reminded, that buggy motor is quite hungry, so it can not be used in this kind of event. But, with bigger battery... Have to try.) So, next step was the body. You can see that I experimented with new tire-rim combo. Too heavy, but not bad. And then I finally bought Buwizz. Laziness and worries about custom RC recievers and batteries won. (hope that not for all times :D) I also installed LEDs to the truck. And bought new tires. And finally, last week I took it outside. Hope you like it. :) More upgrades are slowly on the way. ;)
  2. Hi, This is my new Toyota Sprinter Trueno AE86 Time Attack machine that was built out for challenge with my LEGO-mate and his Nissan SX180 with the same config. Performance is high because of custom remote control and power system. Buying parts and building will cost a lot more than buying proper RC Touring/drift car for play needs. - RC-Brick adapter to control LEGO motors with RC proportional RADIO remote. Custom, limited production by russian enthusiast. Can handle up to 4 buggy motors, but usually such consumption melt platic connectors... - 3S LiPo battery with voltage stabilized on 11,4V Motors are original LEGO - 2x LEGO Buggy motors for rear wheel drive - 1x LEGO PF Servo motor for steering RC adapter is prototype, but group of our fans working on better version, that you can purchase later. I will let you know. Model has front independent suspension based on 8475 RC Racers steering and suspension module. That module is self centering with heavy duty suspenison arms and big steering angle. Rear suspension is live axle with drive motors installed on axle. Body is not 1-piece removable, but separate panels connected to cage frame chassis. More photos https://vk.com/album177639081_275561985 In the next episodes I will show you more content with another car - Nissan SX180 as contender (author is not me, https://www.instagram.com/gears_of_doctor/) , and detailed reivew (on russian language, but subtitiles translation possible)
  3. Brick Car

    [MOC] Miss Octan

    Miss Octan is aiming to break the Lego water speed record!!!! She contains 806 parts!!! She features 8 massive flame spitting jet engines and a huge spoiler!!!! The concept of this build is a powerboat loosely based on any record smashing boats and Ekranoplans but rather with an approach to be pleasing to the eye (I'm a mechanical engineer but no engineering accuracy is present here,sorry:P).The front and the bottom pieces are a Lego airplane tail!!!The design was straightforward and joyful and stability was a fundamental factor of the building process. I want your opinions in the comments!!!! https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=172979
  4. The American Club Racing (ACR) model was introduced in 1999, starting with the Viper GTS (Phase SR II). Exclusive 1 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This model had suspension and engine enhancements focused on maximizing performance in road racing and autocross environments. Horsepower was bumped to 460 hp (370 kW) in these models, while torque increased to 500 lb·ft (678 N·m). Weight was reduced by over 50 pounds (23 kg) by stripping the interior and removing other non-essential items such as the fog lamps (replacing them with brake ducts). Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to its heritage, I've left this beast without bells and whistles in the name of speed.It sport a front clam shell hood, opening rear trunk, and spring back doors. The real catch here is in the speed and options. Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This Viper packs 2x Buwizz 2.0 (with Ludicrous mode) that power this monster directly to 2x Buggy motors. The gearing is accessible and can be swapped for a higher or lower gear in minutes. Ratios avail: 1:1 and 1:1.7. This model also has many build options: 1. 1 or 2 buwizz / 1 or 2 Lipo / 1 or 2 Sbrick 2. 2 Buggy motor or 2 XL motor 3. Fully manual car (just remove the electronics 4. Swap out the engine on the fly for a new one! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Viper also has a rake to it that I also replicated. 1 stud off the ground at the front, 2.5 studs at the rear. Dodge Viper ACR- open hood by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Its been a pleasure playing with this car OUTDOORS (don't even think of play indoors, I smashed it over 10 times) and I hope you guys enjoy the video! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR - Overlay by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmeHa4rL Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Crash compilation: Dodge Viper - Crashes by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  5. Hello All. This is my newest little creation. Intended to rip it up indoors on flat floors, which it does. Powered by one (off-brand) buggy motor and a buwizz 2.0. Has 4wd with open differentials front and rear, and solid axles front and rear. The lack of suspension allows for a robust chassis which handles the power delivery with no drama. Front tie rods can disconnect if you run into something but is otherwise very reliable, and fun to drive.
  6. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  7. Hi! When I received my BuWizz, I wanted to make a fast RC model. It had to be very light, so a kart was good to make that. The mechanic is very simple. There are just some gears to turn the wheels at a high speed. As you can see, the driving is powered by two L motors and the steering by a servomotor. According to the tyres, this kart is very fast!
  8. Warning: Long post and many pics, mobile user might be careful about the data usage. And bad English. Damn when will this end. This post is more like a record post, I will try to list all the modifications I did on the model. Chapter One: Begining 2018 Aug - 2018 Oct All things start from 2018 mid-August, Lego has officially release the Bugatti Chiron 42083. But I am too broke and poor can't afford it yet (still a student), so I have decide to just do some crazy build at the Lego Digital Designer (LDD) to pretend I have one of it. For the first, I found the 42083.LDD file at this post and the first modification I did is trying to convert it to RC with Buwizz. Here are some of the first references I found on the internet, the source has lost. Then I am just thinking would I do something crazy than this? And I pop up an idea. 8 XL power Bugatti Chiron And all the things are starting from this idea... v2.3 24/08/2018 This is the first power configuration I did, the xl motor is having a gear ratio at 1:3. Which I regret later when I finish building in real life later but that is another story. Also due to the space limit, I have to remove the original big fat W16 and replace it with Didumos's w16 engine design. v2.5 25/08/2018 This is the final configuration I have come with and found this is extremely clever(?), even at the current latest version of the mod still has not change too much of this setup. Chapter Two: The first build 2018 Sep - 2018 Oct After I finish the first (wrong) power configuration, I have another idea is to convert this project to Bugatti Vision instead of Chiron. Also, the color configuration changes to Panda set but highlighted with red. v2.8 29/08/2018 from this. V3.9 16/10/2018 To this. And then I finally have the money to afford this and build it in real life. And the first build has completed, the looks are ok but the road test has successfully failed. As I said before, the gear ratio is 1:3 (12:36), it did run smooth but the 12T gear is damage so fast and it is hard to replace. So on the later versions, It has downgraded to 1:1.6667 (12:20) so the damage is not too high. Also, the RC door is lovely and so so smooth. I am happy with it. The mechanism of the RC door is simple, using an L shape as a Principle of leverage to push out the door. And it is driven by 2x M Motors, one for each side. v3.9 16/10/2018 Chapter Three: The raise of Pneumatic 2018 Oct - 2018 Dec And after the first in real life build setup, things got more and more crazy. The first idea is to make a wide-body kit to let it more steady and heavy. v4.7 09/12/2018 v4.7 inside 09/12/2018 As you can see things go super crazy right here, some of them are working and some of them did not. First, the yellow 5L beam represent of Pneumatic Cylinder V2 1 x 5, the LDD did not have this parts, so... The title of this modification is Pneumatic, include: - Pneumatic Suspension (not work so well at this stage) - Pneumatic center differential lock (failed, rejected) - Pneumatic Disc Brakes (not work at all, rejected) - Pneumatic Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control (works good after 5 modification later) - Pneumatic Rear Wing control (works well, although I have changed the wing completely at the latest version) "Pneumatic Driven Clutch Brakes & Pneumatic Rear Spoiler Control & Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control" switch This sound crazy but it is basically having a Servo motor to switch pneumatic valve to active 2 set of action: Set A: - Suspension control (soft/hard) - lock center differential - Un-deploy rear wing - Deactivate Brakes v4.7 09/12/2018 Set B: - Door control (left and right) - unlock center differential - Deploy rear wing - Activate Brakes v4.7 09/12/2018 At then, of course, I have to build it to see how fail it would. Also, you might see there are some electrical wire, those are the custom light, but I don't like it too much at the end. (removed later) And after finished the build, only the rear wing and the SetA/B switch works. - Pneumatic Suspension (too weak and need to redesign) - Pneumatic center differential lock (the differential did not engage well) - Pneumatic Disc Brakes (it can active but can't deactivate, wtf) - Pneumatic Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control (works good) - Pneumatic Rear Wing control (works well) SetA/B switch works smooth And the first major that has to be solved has to be the Suspension design, I have underrated the weight of the car (~3.4kg), it has to be SOME Suspension. Chapter Four: Redesign the Suspensions 2019 Jan - 2019 Mar Then I saw a post about redesign the whole 42083: [Review|Rant|Mod|MOC|WIP] 42083 revisited by Erik Leppen His suspension redesign has given me an idea... Photo by Erik Leppen And then pop! A new set of suspension design has finished. (Same, yellow 5L beam represent of Pneumatic Cylinder V2 1 x 5) v5 Front 19/03/2019 v5 rear 19/03/2019 Real-life build. New vs old Also, I have remove the rear&front differential to replace with 3:1 (36:12) gear for more tough. (Now planing to replace with new differential 65414&65413) But it turns out it still too weak and soft, so I decided to add 2 hard spring suspension each side. v6.2 30/06/2019 The topside is hard spring suspension and the lower is Pneumatic Cylinder. And it turns out too hard this time... Solution: decrease one spring suspension on each side. Problem solved. Chapter Five: Divo and Second real-life build & first photo shooting 2019 Mar And the next title update is to convert it to the color of Bugatti Divo. v6 28/06/2019 Real-life build. At this stage(v6) I thought I finish this model, it is a good time to stop. And I did feel it is a bit of ugly now but I like it at that moment. So I decided to let it have a Pro photo shooting. Nikon D810 with Sigma ART 40mm With 2 AD200 Flashlight And here are some the pics: Full album here: imgur It is funny that the figure is 1/10 scale and the car is 1/8, it feels so small. And also you see there are lots of stickers, which I don't like it a month later and super regret why I do this. Chapter Six: The come back of 5292 2019 June - 2019 July As all we know, the Lego 5292 Buggy RC motor has discontinued from TLG. And it is selling like 100USD for one on the internet. At the first brainstorm planning, I did have a plan to have 8x 5292 Buggy power plan, but due to the cost, it has been rejected. But one day, I saw this on China market. What the. China has already china the 5292?!!! And it only sold as 68RMB! (~9.8USD) And then this forbidden update has been relaunched. v6 28/06/2019 Due to the size of the 5292 is a bit bigger than 2XL motors, most of the body frame has to be redesign. v9 13/01/2020 Real-life build. And it turns out pretty damn nice! Even in Buwizz slow power mode, it runs pretty smooth too. Due to space limitations and wait for new differential 65414&65413 then I will bring it to a bigger to have a run test. Chapter Seven: The real Divo 2019 June - 2019 Nov One day, I am scrolling Facebook and saw this post from Marc Vink. Post link: link His creation is amazing and his rear light did gave me an idea... Why don't I convert my Bugatti to a truly Divo? Not a Divo-vision thing. Photo by Marc Vink And I have try to create my own one. (Reference to Marc Vink's design) v6.1 29/06/2019 v7.7 25/10/2019 And I think that is it, that is the one. Order parts, build it. Finished and it did look way better than I expected!
  9. Ashfall

    Offroad Buggy

    Hey all, this is my first post! I built this car roughly in an hour. It is based off of the Baja Buggies that are pretty awesome, and inspired a bit by the Class 1 Unlimited Buggy by Agrof. This car is powered by a Buggy Motor to a differential, and steered by a Servo. I think I will try to add Long Travel suspension to it, but for now it has no suspension. Let me know what you think- I would love advice! :) (Edit) Here's the Underside of the Car
  10. _TLG_

    [MOC] Street racer

    Hello, let's start the race! It is my own hypercar concept with a minifigure. I reused some details of my earlier idea called "Hypercar concept 1", but I wanted to build this car even more dynamic. It is a studless model built from standard LEGO elements. The overall size is similar to the Speed Champions sets, but the wheels are from City sets as I wanted to keep the height to length ratio closer to the real sports cars. If you like this car, please share and support it on Lego Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/146d40fc-49de-4af5-8173-4c73892a003e Many thanks! Street racer 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Street racer 04 by László Torma, on Flickr
  11. Hello Speed Champions fans, my son asked me to build a white Audi R8. Both of us like the Speed Champions sets, therefore I choosen this scale. If you like it, you can support it on Lego Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/ead4242e-8bae-440d-930d-0c840d86ce5f It is a studless build from standard lego elements and modified City wheels are used instead of Speed Champions ones to keep the height to length ratio more realistic similarly to my earlier ideas. The front of this car is iconic and it was a real challenge to recreate it in this small size. I made lots of versions and I think the actual one with a tricky solution is the best. I tried more solutions to the black side blades too, the actual one was inspired by "LEGO Audi R8 instructions (MOC #96)" by "Jerry Builds Bricks" on Youtube, however I modifed it a bit as I wanted tilted blades similarly to the real ones. Only one sticker is used which is the Audi logo on the front as I'm generally not a fan of the parts with stickers, because of the lack of flexibility in using them with other builds. The set includes the minifigure shown on the main picture on the Lego Ideas. It comes form the set 75873 but with red helmet. I have added a rear wing to make the car more dynamic. It differs from the custom Audi wings, but I think it fits to the style of the car and to the side mirrors. Audi_R8-04 by László Torma, on Flickr Audi_R8-05 by László Torma, on Flickr Audi_R8-02 by László Torma, on Flickr Audi_R8-03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  12. _TLG_

    [MOC] Rally Bug

    Baby Porsche or VW Beetle tuning? This is a fictitious race car, I hope you like it :) You can support it on Lego Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/68cb5ef6-6e2c-40fc-9dca-0e4b7f3fe64a It is a studless build in Speed Champions scale, but with City wheels. I used only standard LEGO elements, the slopes with stickers are part of the set called 1968 Ford Mustang. Baby Porsche 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Baby Porsche 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Baby Porsche 03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  13. I have done this MOC more than a year ago, but as for the Ford Mustang Hoonicorn, I can't make the video until the bug of the BuWizz (with the Fast and Ludicrous modes) is corrected. So I show you the pictures of the MOC for the moment. ^^ I have started to build this creation when I have received 2 RC motors. The purpose was to see what I could make using 2 RC motors and a BuWizz. So this thing is an airplane... until the bug stops the BuWizz. With the 2 RC motors connected to big wheels by the high output, this is very fast. How I had the idea to make this model? I wanted to make a cartoon / videogame style MOC, so I chose the most famous vehicle of Mario Kart videogame. The 2 RC motors are at the rear, the BuWizz is between them. At the front, there is the servomotor which activates the steering with an Ackermann effect, and there is a return to the steering wheel. The body work is easily detacheable. You have just to remove some pins, or simply to detach the blocs from the chassis. Video coming in a moment I think...
  14. _TLG_

    [MOC] Hypercar Concept 1

    Hello, feel the speed! It is my own hypercar concept inspired by real hyper and supercars. It is a 6 studs wide, studless model built from standard LEGO elements. The overall size is similar to the Speed Champions sets, but the wheels are from City sets as I wanted to keep the height to length ratio closer to the real sports cars. It can be combined with my other MOC Hybrid Truck which will be available on LEGO IDEAS soon too. If you like this car, please share and support the it on LEGO IDEAS: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/44e6dbbf-734f-4b38-84c7-2075b09495bb Many thanks! LEGO Hypercar concept1-02 by László Torma, on Flickr LEGO Hypercar concept1-01 by László Torma, on Flickr LEGO Hypercar concept1-03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  15. Dear moderators, please rename this topic to [MOC] Trophy Truck "Double Trouble" Hi everybody! Video is available, enjoy and comment! Here comes double trouble. Twin powered double trouble True liftarm energy! This is my new Moc. And it is ready: I am working on photo/video. UPDATE Here is some photos and info while you wait for video. Specs: Soft long travel suspension. Front independent with postive caster Rear live axle with built in Buggy motors. Rear wheel drive Self made stickers Tires RC4WD Dirt Grabber 1.55 (74 мм) - thats a copy of real BF Goodrich AT tires Spare tire RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ 1.55 (83 мм) Weight is 1100 gr Electrics: Steering SERVO, Flying Propulsion 2x Buggy motors Fueled by 2xLiPo 3xLED lights Controlling thru 2xSBrick Internal space is filled with electronics. Unfortunately there is no free space for cockpit. Love this suspension, its articulation is great for me. I am happy seeing how it works) Suspension travel is about 4L. I will drop down and show it on video later. You know, LEGO suspension is always jerky, so you cant make big mocs drive straight, especially when it is fast and big. Positive caster helps to return wheels in center postition and fights with steering system backlash. It also makes shock absorbers work smoother and softer, IMHO. I dont like demonic "Monster" theme that is everywhere now...but this is good) Very good and realistic tires. Sad that there is no similar proportions tires in LEGO assortment. These are 75 mm with wide almost equal to medium 43 mm racing wheel. Spare tire is another type, cause I dont have 5-th Dirt Grabber. These 83 mm tire also fit in the arches, but they are bigger and harder for LiPos to rotate without stress... Model is driving fast enough for its weight and even drift donuts indoor, but outdoor shows the the weakest part - LiPo. I should try to lock differential thermistor for insane driving. After "baja" outdoor drive I replaced all damaged wheel axles and going to film its indoor's donuts and at asphalt outdoor to reach maximum speed. I hope it can reach at least 10 km/h. So "why double trouble"? - it is hard to fuel buggy motors. And here we have double of them. Here is full photo album http://www.bricksafe...rm8/BajaTruckDT
  16. Chanced upon this video while browsing youtube just now... I'm not in any way promoting the use of 3rd party parts () here (it's individuals' tastes after all), but I thought this video pretty much gives a rough gauge to all of us what pure Lego, when combined with brushless motor (i.e. no lubrication, no bearings, no other metallic 3rd party hobby-grade RC structural/mechanical components), can do... how Lego parts (especially differentials and universal joints) survived at such speed, for a roughly 1 kg model (my own model weighs 3 kg and if I accelerate it hard, the rear-front-middle differential and universal joints will complain)... and the control range to be expected using rc-grade transmitter/receiver. and if the speed claimed is accurate, the 68.8 mm wheels would have to be spinning at close to 6k rpm - depending on weather conditions this is probably the top limit before Lego axles melts (this limit will go down the heavier the model is).
  17. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  18. Not for LEGO purists, contains modified LEGO parts. It has been a wonderful struggle, but it paid off: a super fast, relatively stable LEGO RC Boat, driven by a brushless elektromotor and two, counterclockwise turning propellors! No torque-roll anymore, almost no porposing (thanks to the trim tabs), direct steering and great fun! To get the balance right and to get the boat planning at higher speed was a challenge. But it works! The wet area can be reduced to a minimum, at high speed the boat is almost complete on top of the water (downside: hardly any control left :(( ). Based on a 54799 LEGO Hull with a few additions: - 3D printed stuffing tube to cater for an in-board, brushless motor (10 mm tube stuffed with LEGO parts to make it waterproof) - A gearbox to convert the motor output into two counterclockwise turning axles - A 2x2 3D printed LEGO brick to make the steering arm waterproof - And al the 2.4GHz RC parts: ESC, servo, battery pack, receiver Please have a look at the video and let me know your comments.
  19. So there it is, my 'illegal' entry to AMS2, wich is illegal because it uses a rechargeable (LiPo) battery instead of the Lego 6xAA batteryboxes wich are drained very fast, expensive and bad for the enviroment, so I don't use them, purist rules are ok untill they stop making logical sense and become outings of total OCD only. Eat Dust ! Big enigines need big tailpipes. Pneumatic lifting of the bodywork to acces tech area, it can also ride in this position but it is not recommended. As there is no suspension in the chassis the pneumatic coupling of the bodywork still garantees a smooth ride. A souped up engine needs lots of extra dials and gages and stuff to keep track of all the added systems, no pair-a-dice by the dashboard light but a trofee pair of worn out pistons, behind the steering wheel there is also a siringe mounted to the dash, I still don't know what's in it, but knowing the driver it's probably heroin. Big supercharger added. Extra cooling for the engine Just like a real dragster it can lock the frontwheels (pneumatic breaks) to do a tire warming burnout in place, with 4L motors driving the rear wheels only doing a burnout, drifting and doughnuts are no problem at all as long there is a flat surface to ride on (no carpet), there is also a magnetic reedswitch wich engages the 6 orange blinking LED's as a warning when the frontwheel lock is engaged. The (pneumatic) break pedal is actaully working, though you would have to push it a 100 times to engage the breaks, in the rear there is a electrical pneumatic pump keeping pressure on the system, but when electricity is down it can still be manually pressured by the breakpedal. It maxes out the testbench in 5 seconds... So dragsters are highly illegal, don't use standart engines and chassis in general, anything goes as long as it's fast, so I think I did a perfect rendition of a dragified Lego set with this build. More pics here; https://bricksafe.com/pages/Permo/crazer-
  20. Technic BOOM

    MOC RC Trophy Truck

    Power functions. 1x L motor 1x Servo motor
  21. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).
  22. Hi folks, This is not for purists. Contains modified and non-LEGO parts. My urge to build a super fast LEGO RC Car often stopped at the stage where the body needed to be build. Seeing all the great designs on forums like this, it somewhat discouraged me building my own. Besides the fact that these bodies come with some weight and will not hold a crash a higher speeds, I had to come up with something else. As a result of an earlier project (building a fast LEGO boat) a had some damaged LEGO Hulls (54779). Since a car body works basically the same as boat hull (but 180 degrees rotated), I thought I'd give it a try. Have a look at the result in the YT video. It works fine. Gives strength to the car, the aerodynamics work well for good driving stability and it is not that ugly :) Called it The LBOW (Lego Boat On Wheels). Included standard RC components: ESC, brushless motor, 3s Lipo battery, digital steering servo and .... a Gyro. Resulted in a very fast RC Car. Theoretically this should be able to reach 100 km/h. Speed test will follow (need to find a good track first). For those trying to do similar things, I'd strongly recommend to add the Gyroscope to your car. It prevents the car from breaking out at higher speeds. Very useful.
  23. Hi folks, Most LEGO boats have out-board motors. Not very elegant, not very fast. I felt a strong urge to find out if in-board was possible. And, if the LEGO hulls could handle some speed. Although it did require a 3D-printed part (a so called stuffing tube), it worked out well. Built in some 2.4GHz RC components to make sure the boat could be controlled from a distance. And included a modest brushed elektromotor. Please have a look at the result hereunder. Leave a comment if you wish to see more details. Happy to share. Currently working on a optimized version: The prop behind the boat, not under the boat. Less resistance, more speed, more control.
  24. [WIP] 40+ km/h lego car Since i like to see some ideas and open discussions, i decided to make this project public. So lets start with the current progress: A few pictures of the first tries, with the following specs: - 4 motors, gearing 24:8 from low-speed-otput - 1 PF-battery-box, attached to an old 9V switch, controlling 1 of the 4 buggy motors. Switch is controlled by a micromotor powered with the auxilary output of the rc unit. - 3 motors powered with the RC unit - total weight (without speed computer, to stay below the magic number :D) -> 991g (1012g with the computer) 4th motor is used as a booster, activated with the auxiliary padels, once the car reached like 15 km/h Fresh video, done 1 hour ago ;) (38,7 km/h) ->
  25. I have decided to make a WIP topic for my tests of my speedcar, which is a car that I hope to get up to 40km/h or more. But I don't want this to turn into a discussion about wheels, I just want it to be a place to show my progress. This is where I will be doing most of my tests: - it's about 80m of very smooth car park + 15m of footpath and 10m of gravel. Here is my first car: 5:3 gearing, 725gm Here is the results of the tests: Yes, I know - only 24.3km/h, but it's more than I would have ever expected a few months ago (when I thought that the top speed for Lego was 27km/h). I have some work to do...