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Found 42 results

  1. RC Off-roader with Dual Diagonal Drive I think I'm onto something that will get me through the winter. I have been playing with this idea for a while already, especially after seeing @KevinMoo's dual drive models (Mitsubishi Pajero and Dual-Driveshaft Pickup). @KevinMoo rightfully addressed the vulnerability of LEGO parts in RC models and the fact that using independent drive trains for the left and right sides, loses the benefit of differentials while cornering. This got me thinking. Using independent drive trains for left and right in a 4WD model does indeed drop the benefit of differentials while cornering, but what if we would pair the wheels diagonally, so pair the left front (LF) wheel with the right rear (RR) wheel, and pair the right front (RF) wheel with the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'dual diagonal drive' (I borrowed the term from the electric skateboard scene) would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is very close to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution by means of a differential between the two drive trains is much less of a problem as it with separate drive trains for the left and right side wheels. On a very uneven surface, where one or two wheels may lose contact with the ground, the wheels that do have contact are typically lined up diagonally, see image. With dual diagonal drive, the vehicle would still have traction, even without locking any differentials. Only on slippery surfaces, there are chances of spinning wheels. So this is what I'm thinking of. We start with the basic dual diagonal drive setup: Two separate drive trains, one for the LF and RR wheels and one for the RF and LR wheels. The drive trains cross using a red clutch-gear. When both rear wheels have the same speed, this clutch gear and its axle are rotating with the same speed in the same direction. I inserted a 1L Technic brick inside each differential - idea from @Madoca 1977's Toyota Land Cruiser 80 - to prevent the bevel gears from popping out. Next we add a manual locking feature, which closes the differentials and synchronizes the two drive trains, with a single lever. So this locking feature will force all 4 wheels to have the same speed. Now we connect each XL-motor to one of the differentials, using a small 4-speed gearbox. That means; two separate 4-speed gearboxes. This may be a bit ambitious, we'll have to see in real-life whether this is feasible or not. I might fall back to two 2-speed gearboxes. I did pay attention to the amount of torque in the transmission though. I geared up the XL-motor outputs and geared down the transmission output. That makes the transmission spin faster with less torque. The gearboxes are operated synchronously using a 90-degree stepper, which is controlled by a Servo-motor. Each gear shift axle has its own 90-degree limiter. And finally the outputs of the XL-motors are transferred to a fake V8-engine via a normal differential. The sole purpose of this differential is to combine the XL-motor outputs for the fake engine. For the steering I'm thinking of using two small linear actuators and an M-motor. For fast models I don't really like the directness of steering with a Servo-motor. I don't know where this is going to end. I'm not even sure about the exact kind of car I will be targeting, but it sure needs to be some kind of all-rounder. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
  2. I' ve decided to make an alternative model for 42054 CLAAS XERION 5000 TRAC VC set. I' ve wanted to design something different from all those excellent c models already made, so I made a truck capable of off-road conditions, with crane and many other functions. The result: Functions: rear axle drive with 4 piston engine steering live axle suspension side outriggers cabin tilting rear PTO (power take off) crane arm rotation crane arm 1st stage elevation crane arm 2nd stage elevation grabber closing/opening Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. This model is powered by one m motor with rotation direction selection. It powers main selector, crane selector. and PTO. Main selector switches between worm gear powered functions and arm rotation. When worm gear functions are selected, there is another switch to choose between outriggers and cabin tilting. The crane selector switches between 1st and 2nd stage elevation. I had to use some interesting (I think) solutions because of parts selection in 42054 set: Piston engine There are no piston engine parts in the set, so i made them from some connectors. You can see it working in the video. Suspension There are no shock absorbers or wishbones too. So I' ve made a suspension based on twisting axles: Every wishbone is suspended independly. 3 of those connected to axle make a well-working long travel soft off-road suspension: Grabber There was a grabber in original set, but when building the grabber I've already used the worm gear for more important functions, so I' ve designed a different locking mechanism: Turning the green axle makes the red grabber frame move up and down and becouse of engaging the blue knob gear with h-frame opening and closing blue grabber. Instructions Instructions are already available here on rebrickable! I hope you liked this model.
  3. Presenting another trial truck - 4x4 - PF: XL, Servo, IR, LiPo - Leaf spring front suspension - Double soft shock rear suspension - Panhar rods for both axles - Opening hood - Removable body. Prepared it for the Trial contest in Moscow, but couldn't come there, then participated in the Truck Trial competition in St. Petersburg. You can watch the performance here: Time: 13:41 and 54:33.
  4. Hi to all fans of Lego! Today I want to share with you my new work - Rock Rod Rock Rod - it's the crawler, on the construction of which I was inspired by the fierce custom projects from HAUK Designs. Especially, where, no matter how on the crawler to run a fresh RC DC chequered flag STT PRO rubber wheels and BuWizz. At the output was a relatively light on the portal bridges crawler. At the heart of the model is also the philosophy of placing motors on bridges, to reduce the center of gravity and minimize weight and inertia of the body. Technical characteristics of the model: Weight (together with a technic-figure) - 817 g. Number of parts - 617 pcs. Steering - Servo motor Movement - two L motors Power / Control - BuWizz Even the "sofa" trial allows us to understand that additions such as non-standard tires and BuWizz significantly expand the scope of use and possibilities of radio controlled Lego models. It remains to wait until the snow comes down, to ride Rock Rod on the rocks. But you can do this before me, by building the Rock Rod yourself by free video instruction. I plan to test the model in the spring on a severe off-road. I will be very glad to hear from you any advice or wish for the completion of both the technical component of the model and its appearance. Ahead is still half a year :)
  5. desert752

    [MOC] SUV Racer

    Hello All! This post is updated with new video: Today I want to present my new MOC – SUV Racer! AWD, independent suspension, four buggy motors (slow output), 52 x 24 x 19 cm, total weight – 2.5 kg. No universal joints, no diffs, no S-brick :) True action: And a few photos: Short movie about my trip with this model: Thanks for watching!
  6. This is my new 1969 Dodge Charger Monster Truck. It’s a hybrid, a chimera. It’s an all-wheel drive, all-wheel steer monster. I built it in sections. It is very easy to build and assemble. I had to sacrifice passenger seat to make room for IR receivers. Quick reference of the features: - 2 XL motors for drive, one for each axle, - Tatra suspension, - Loads of suspension travel, - 2 L motors for steering, one for each axle, - Tatra steering system (via small LA) with Ackerman geometry, - Independent steering of front and rear axles, - Normal steering mode, - All wheel steering mode, - Crab steering mode - 2 L motors for winches, one for each winch, - Openable doors, - Hidden/flip-up headlights, - Working steering wheel, - Hemi V8 engine with carburetors and blower. BOSS Here you can see door opening mechanism. UNDERDOG SINISTER VICE And here is the chassis. So, which combo do you like the most?
  7. Technic BOOM

    MOC RC Jeep Willys MB

    Power functions: 1x Servo motor 1x L motor
  8. It’s that time that I present again. This time I built a Race/Off-road Truck. It uses 2 L motors for drive and servo motor for steering. Manual 2 speed gearbox with 1:3 and 3:1 gear ratios. It’s only rear wheel drive. Double wishbone independent front suspension and live rear axle. Special things are gullwing lockable doors, and sliding seats. But the real feature is its transforming abilities. First configuration; RACE. So, I used suspension lift system straight out of Lego’s 8297 Off-roader. When the truck is lowered the ground clearance is just over 1 stud. With suspension travel at minimum, less than 1 stud, and very high gear, it’s perfect for circuit racing. Because the cabin is in front of the front wheels I put the battery box as far back to act as a counter weight. Second configuration; light OFF-ROAD. I say light because it’s only RWD. I wanted to make it AWD, but I don’t have those small steering wheel hubs in LDD, only the big ones (like Porsche uses). And I didn’t like the way it looked with those, plus this way I got better steering angle and ground clearance, so I compromised. Now, the suspension lifting is done manually by yellow gear wheels. (I didn’t want to put a big motor to stick out on top of the chassis to make it motorized). So, when is lifted the ground clearance is 3.5 studs, with the same amount of suspension travel. The cabin is on a swivel, you lift (rotate, swivel…) it back, secure it with light gray pins and the protective front guard pops out (which is hidden underneath the cabin in race mod). So now the truck can handle some steep inclinations. The only thing I’m not sure about is the frame’s structural stability. Will it bend and twist, I don’t know. I’m assuming it might. I feel that I need to mention this one more time; I don’t have real Legos, so I use only LDD. Bottom view Comparison: Thank you for your attention.
  9. Tundra buggy – an off-road vehicle for extreme arctic adventures - 4x4 - XL, Servo, IR, LiPo - Leaf spring suspension - Opening doors - Removable body. The chassis is modified version of my Trial Pickup Truck one.
  10. After seeing lots of different takes on the Land Rover (of various eras) I was inspired to design a minifig-scale version of the Series 2 for my nascent 1950s British village. LDD instructions are available here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zetroc
  11. This is Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set with some unique rallycross-inspired features I added making it the perfect sports car to drive in the snow. Features Suspension system raised to make the car about two studs higher Wheels and tires from the 42037 Formula Off-Roader Mudflaps LED light bar Front off-road lights Rear bash bars Optional snowplow that attaches to the front The lights are fake and don't turn on, and all of the other lime-colored pieces are from the 42037 set as well. I had a lot of fun making this. I just had to switch of the area of the springs to change the height for the rear without any pieces needed, but for the front, I had to remove the entire Porsche's body to make the lift there using a variety of pieces. Overall, I'm proud that a got the result I wanted, which was making the Porsche 911 GT3 RS higher (so it wouldn't bottom out) and equipping it with off-road features so I could have fun with this set in the winter. It does need to drive in snow only about an inch high so I could move it without getting stuck (and so the plow can move the snow too). I recommend to anyone who has the Porsche set to try these mods out for themselves this winter! Here's some more pictures of the car and a desktop wallpaper that I created wishing everyone at EuroBricks Happy Holidays!
  12. StudRobotics

    Lexus GX EV3

    "The Pursuit of Perfection" - slogan of the Lexus brand. I'm now back with my greatest Lego creation ever. A 2010 Lexus GX 460 with EV3. It's a replica of my Dad's car, but this one's in gray with black interior. I made it as much as I could to the real car, thanks to pieces from the Arocs and Porsche set. Features Sariel's 4-speed sequential gearbox controlled by a medium motor All-wheel-drive Independent suspension Rack-and-pinion steering Fake V8 engine Six seats (could not fit a seventh one) with the rear four being foldable Opening side doors, trunk door, and hood. Detailed interior The gearbox and the two differentials in the car like to click while moving (especially on rough terrain) around, but the result was a car that was heavy, slow, but also makes lots of torque. I'm very happy with how this car came out and I couldn't have done it without all of the helpful people on the Lego community and EuroBricks. Thanks especially to my good friend TheMindGarage for never making me give up. Now I can officially call myself a true master builder. Check out this build on my EV3 community account too for more photos and information about it. I would love to make a YouTube video soon about the features of the GX EV3 and footage of me taking this build on some dirt trails in a park. I also want to take a picture of this right next to my Dad's actual car. So please follow this post to check out some stuff I might upload in the future! To finish this post, here's some collages with photos of the GX EV3.
  13. nerdsforprez

    Gheo-rescue

    Okay.... I am already super-backed up on projects and cannot take on another....but someone absolutely needs to make this machine! in LEGO!
  14. de-marco

    [MOC] Buggy

    Buggy building instructions Parts list
  15. de-marco

    [MOC] Off-road Truck "Raptor"

    Off-road Truck "Raptor" building instructions
  16. de-marco

    [MOC] Jungle Car "NIVA"

    Off-Road Expedition Car "NIVA"
  17. de-marco

    [MOC] 4x4 off-road car "Bronco"

    "Bronco" buildind instructions
  18. filsawgood

    Crawler 4x4

    How about that little cross between mud and go on the rocks? Crawler 4x4 always ready for it! Still would! Its wheels are shod with tires RC Rock Crusher X/T 1.9, coupled with portal axles and two motors running by SBrick and LiPo battery box - we have an off-roader with excellent maneuverability, suspension geometry and a low center of gravity due to the unsprung axles. Crawler 4x4 built under the rules of the forthcoming Off-road trial competition in Moscow, at the same time. I tried to build the chassis in such a way as to achieve maximum throughput and maximum flexibility - namely, so this chassis can set the wheels of virtually any size from 62 to 108 mm. The body of the model removable. This allows the chassis to this every body, even though the truck, even an SUV. Get more photos on my blog of flickr
  19. I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
  20. Xewyz2001

    [MOC] APC v2

    Good day! About a year ago I made an APC . It was a simplistic, underpowered MOC. Today I present you my second attempt at building APC. It was slightly inspired by BOV m11 Functions: -4x4 drive with buggy motor with 1:4.4 gear ratio -steering with m-motor -turret rotation with m-motor -gun elevation with m-motor -powered by a BuWizz -pendular suspension on rear axle The off-road perfomance of the geared down buggy motor was surprisingly good , both at low and high speeds. The turret can rotate 360º freely with the motor geared down 1:2.3. The gun uses a mini LA for the elevation @ 1:1 gear ratio The charging port and the switch on the BuWizz are accesible throught the hatch on the left side of the vehicle. I hope my studded bodywork isn't too horrible , the video will be up later today.
  21. droomangroup

    [MOC] Jeep CJ5's

    as a continuation of my 4x4 series, i made a few Jeep CJ5's. i've attached the LXF file if you wish to check it out. anyway enjoy.... like my UTV builds the two seats are more for looks than function.... interior dash, w/ speedo and passenger side grab bar... some bottom side details, a faux driveshaft... the typical 4x4 gear i add to my MOC's, a spare tire and a jerry can and hilift jack of my own design... next i'm working on a YJ with different headlights, front fenders, door openings, and rollcage. I'm too lazy to make perfect instructions for this, however, here's some notes to supplement the crappy instructions from LDD (assuming your LDD gives you the same instructions)... + STEP 3, add a 2x4 black plate (from step 8) in front of the 1x6 plate on top of the main 2x12 plate before adding the 4x10 plate + STEP 6, before starting, jump to step 72 to make SNOT assembly that fills the fender gap, add that on first + STEP 10, before adding the 2x3 brick, you can add two downward facing 1x2 brackets (from step 91/92) to the top of the frontmost 1x4 plate you just added + STEP 14, save the hood until after step 88. + STEP 16, do step 17 first. + STEP 20, before adding the black 1x2 plate, add a 1x4 black plate that sticks out 2 studs past the rear of the jeep (from step 78) this will be the rack for the jerry can + STEP 21/22, you can add the four 1x2 plates with mounting studs on both sides of the 1x1 plate before adding the 1x2 tiles that overlap them. (the 1x2 plates with mounting studs show up in steps 28/30 & 59/62) + STEP 23, before adding the 1x4 plate you can mount the black and colored (white) technics 1x2 bricks with axle holes to the open 2x2 space, (these bricks are found in step 81), note the black brick can be a regular technics brick with a round hole, it's main function is to just give the small axle we'll use some room to go into, the outer brick should be an axle brick though since it will hold the spare tire in position. + STEP 24-26, do these steps AFTER doing steps 50-56 + STEP 50, before starting, do steps 53-56 + STEP 56, afterwards don't forget to go back and do steps 24-26 + STEP 65, do after step 68 (unless you are a wizard) hope that helps, brick on folks! jeep-cj-v5-white.lxf.zip
  22. Hi everybody. last month I started a new project, while my 42043-C Unimog U4000 is on standby. I kinda like the Mercedes Benz team. so this one will be another Zetros. while my 42043-C Zetros was a C-model, this Zetros 3643 AS 6x6, will be way bigger, and not a C-model. Below is the blueprint I'm actually building from. been during a lot of research, blueprints and calculated a proper scale many times..... so by basing the scale on the wheels I figured out that a 1:12.5 scale would fit very well. I got some RC wheels 108mm, which kinda looks like the Zetros tires, but the Claas Tractor tires will fit the model very well too. Now let me show some pictures of my actual model so far. This one was my first atempt to build a proper fitting chassis for the Zetros But after a month with rebuilds and testing, I got to scrap that design, as the gearbox wasn't strong enough to power 3-4 kg of lego. also was the chassis a bit to flexible. so during january I ended up with this design: And by now I have finished most of the chassis, on moved on to the cab. As told it is the CrewCab model I'm building, mostly because it is the one I like most, and think it fits the size of the truck very well. By finishing the Chassis, it also means that bumbers and headlights are done. I'm not quite sure about the headlights yet, but it will work for now. The picture above, is the current prgress. More will follow. more pictures at: https://flic.kr/s/aHskRFHEQB
  23. G'day from Australia everyone! This is my first topic created on Eurobricks and my first serious MOC since the end of my "dark age". I'm seriously super glad to be here and keen to share my Technic creations with you all from now onward. With this in mind, if there's any way I can improve how/what I post, by all means let me know so I can keep everyone (including staff) content. I am committed to giving this site the full respect it deserves. :) As a few of you have suggested, it's a good idea when coming out of your dark age to develop designing/building skill by drawing on other people's MOCs for inspiration and guidance for different building techniques... Partially inspired by SevenStuds' recreation of Tim Cameron's rock bouncer "Showtime", I present my own 4x4 Rock Bouncer. Features.. Drive: 2 PF XL motors (1 per axle). Final ratio is 3:1. Steering: 1 PF Servo motor with rack and pinion Suspension/axles: Full-time locked solid live axles with portal hubs (geared 3:1), suspended by 9.5L shock absorber (soft) (2 per axle) and stabilized by a double triangulated four-link setup. Tires: Third party scale RC tires similar to the "Rock Crusher" by RC4WD. Battery: 1 x PF AA battery box Receiver: 1 x PF V2 I initially began designing some kind of rock crawler which was to include PF XL motors, third party tires of some description and (after quite a while researching suspension design) double triangulated four-link suspension. This kind of suspension is ideal as it provides maximum articulation and strength of the axle while eliminating the requirement for a Panhard Bar or Watts Linkage because the triangular positioning of the upper and lower control arms oppose each other, eliminating sway and allowing all desirable movement. By far the most difficult part of designing was the requirement for a steering shaft which moved harmoniously with the suspension cycle of the front axle. Because the upper control arms are shorter than the lower ones, the angle of the axle relative to the chassis changes through it's cycle and this means that when positioning the steering shaft, it must be such that the radius of it's motion doesn't change (due to angle change) as TLG doesn't offer any part which works purposely as a slip joint to negotiate the effect of plunge. After many, many, many... many attempts, a sweet spot was discovered which offered a negligible discrepancy. (This was a happy moment). It's biggest performance drawback would have to be that when the angle of climb and drive torque applied is too great, the rear lower control arms buckle and the rear axle begins to walk under the chassis. Trust me, it's cringe-worthy. With 15L beams instead of 16L links and consequently different suspension geometry, however, this could be resolved. The turning circle also suffers due to the wheel base. Overall, I am reasonably happy with the final product as it is capable of most of the things I intended it to be and in my opinion, the body could look worse. ;) I unfortunately don't have video footage, but I do have photos (see below). Enjoy! All comments welcome. :D
  24. Hi! These two off-roaders were made special for Moscow Technic fest (November 2016). Hedgehog: Chick: Thanks for watching!
  25. Hi All, I ran into a sale (50% off), and couldn't resist to buy a copy of 42037. It was actually much more fun to build than I thought, pretty sturdy construction. Still, L4 engine? I had to change some bits of it... enjoy! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/agrof/42037-ultimate-mod