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Found 75 results

  1. The title kind of says it all. I'm new to Bricklink and want to know if there's anything I should know in regards to getting a good price, part quality, etc.
  2. Hello from Massachusetts!

    Hello, I'm new to this community, but have been building Lego my whole life. My favorite themes when I was growing up in the late 80's and early 90's were Castle and Pirates. In recent years, my favorites are the Star Wars UCS sets, though I'm especially impressed with some of the MOC's both of Star Wars and in general. I first found this forum when I was wondering why Lego hasn't done a set for the Star Wars Nebulon-B Medical Frigate from the Rebel flleet. A google search turned up the absolutely AMAZING MOC of the Nebulon-B by Mortesv, and as I read more about that I of course found a thread or two talking about it in this forum. Over the last few years I've become very impressed with the online tools we have thanks mostly to the ingenuity of the Lego community. Most people, even probably a lot of people that have Lego or buy sets for their kids, have no idea that sites like Bricklink, Brickset, and Rebrickable, exist. The sheer number of online store fronts on Bricklink, and the enormity of how many individual parts there are just boggles my mind. The amount of data that Brickset can tell me about my collection is fascinating. I am now trying to learn about the Lego design software that until a week ago I wasn't aware existed. It seems like Lego Digital Designer is kind of broken and not supported by Lego, yet it seems like folks are still using it? What about Is that more or as popular? Or is there other software besides those? I feel like I am just scratching the surface of the new things I want to learn about - and this forum seems like a great place to figure it all out! Looking forward to participating in this community, almost as much as I am for my two year old getting old enough to graduate from Duplos into Lego!
  3. I have noticed that there seems to be a lot of posts where someone shares an LDD file and then someone else has trouble uploading directly to bricklink. I have found a method that works pretty well and I would like to share it here. Please share your feedback and feel free to link to this topic if you find someone in the same situation. Supertruper's Guide to retrieving parts from LDD using Rebrickable Things you will need: Rebrickable account Bricklink or brickowl account LDD file of something you want to build Here are the steps after you have the things above. 1. Log into Rebrickable and navigate to the "My Custom Lists" section 2. On the left click "Add New List" 3. (Optional) rename your list using the "Edit List Details" button 4. Click "Import Parts" and browse or drag your LDD file 5. Click "Append Parts" From here the parts list will load but there will be color errors and Minifig parts do not come up correctly. There will also be no prints selected. Any printed parts will need to be updated. 6. Once all the parts are adjusted click "Buy Parts" from here you can add them to your Bricklink or Brickowl account Thanks for reading, please don't hesitate to provide feedback or corrections. Please also feel free to ask for help here and I will try to help you out as much as I know how.
  4. Hello guys, i should create this topic on the buying, selling & trading forums but i'am a new member and my liberty in this forum is so limited. The next month i will buy The Lego Movie 70816 Benny's Spaceship ¡¡SPACESHIP SPACESHIP!! set on eBay but i got too much concern about it is the real set or it's a scam. Leave you hints & suggestions replying on this topic. That's all pals, hasta luego.
  5. Got my first bad experience on bricklink. The seller cancelled my order because he got a higher offer. Is there anything a seller can do in that situation? Looks like a seller can cancel an order at any time.
  6. I fell in love with this set when I first saw it late last year, was very disappointed that it didn't get a general release, and ever since I've been torn between buying one new/sealed or simply buying the bricks - but is bricklinking the set ever going to be possible? A month or so after the reveal, the inventory appeared online and while there were no new parts there were several unique colours that have since appeared in sets released this year. For example, 11212 Black Plate 3x3 was unique until Architecture 21033 Chicago was released. Hinge plate 6134 was unique in reddish brown, until Clayface Splat Attack and the brickheadz model of Belle were issued. At the moment, only 7 parts remain unique to 50 Years On Track: the 6 printed tiles stating the name of each model, and 50254 Small Train Wheel in red. These wheels are used on 3 of the steam engines , but none have ever appeared for sale on bricklink. After looking at current 2017 sets and scouring the images of upcoming 2017 sets, I'm starting to think this part will never appear anywhere. Have I missed something, are we ever likely to see the red small train wheels in a readily available set? Are there any alternatives that might be suitable? Or should I just take the plunge and buy a sealed set (which is typically double or more than the cost of the actual bricks)?
  7. Sellers synchronization tool

    Hello everyone! As a master's student at IT university and a small seller myself, I have made a tool to automatically synchronize my stock and orders on some most famous LEGO markets and I want to know your opinion. What have I done? Set of automatic scripts on mayor LEGO selling websites (Bricklink, Brickowl, eBay, Allegro (central european auction house) + my own eshop) which regularly check all the incoming orders and synchronize the stock on all other websites to avoid selling duplicates. In online auctions the script also automatically sells every week all previously expired auctions. This way I'm able to control everything from one place and I don't have to worry about anything else then shipping the orders. Why am I describing this? I have everything already programmed and ready to use. So I was thinking if any other seller could find it useful and would be willing to use this system as well. If there would be enough people which could benefit from this, I can put my effort into making some nice user interface to set everything up and ready to use for everyone. Also, if you have any suggestions or opinions about this briefly explained application, I will be happy to hear it.
  8. So... Yet Another 10179 fanboy/project. If you're tired of ppl going for their own Bricklinked falcons, you can stop read here. :) Well, I think I have more to say about it than "now it's my turn" but be advised - it IS about me trying to get myself a 10179. My first dream came true, the 10134 Y-wing. It was actually easier than I thought. See further details here: Encouraged by the success, I raised the bar "a little" and am now going for the Holy Grail of Bricklinking official sets, the mighty MF #10179. But of course it is with my own twist. So what's my take on it? Well, for starters, I am NOT interested to pay those fantasy sums for overpriced parts that happen to be of exactly correct color. Don't get me wrong here, I DO want to get a set that is close to the real deal. But afaic the real deal is THE MOVIE and if my set happen do differ from the official #10179 due to my economical restraints, it's fine. I will try to make it look like MF allright, just not as the 10179 MF at any cost. I consider part of the fun (at least for now) of Bricklinking an official set, to try to make it as affordable as possible. To be able to follow progress, order by order as the goal of getting all pieces comes closer. The countdown to Build Day is part of the fun, part of the journey. To make that journey interesting, I try to find solutions to lower the price to more reasonable levels One easy thing is to swap colors. Easy is maybe wrong since it comes down to two scenarios: the expensive part either show or do not show on the set when built. If it does not show, it's an easy choice but on the other hand it can require a bit of investigation to determine if that piece really shows or not. But if the piece(s) show, it's more a matter of choice - will another color be worse or better or equally visually? Things like that. Another, more intriguing thing, is to replace parts or constructs with other, more affordable alternatives. I did this on 10134 and am not afraid to do it on this set too. On area that could be target for redesign is the engines where those two LBG boat mast riggings go. I simply do not want to pay what they cost. My first and most obvious choice here is to skip the rigging, it looks pretty damn cool anyway. Other options include the black ones, after market versions but I do not exclude custom solution too. The neat thing is that I don't have to decide until I decide. The model will look awesome no matter what. Being a programmer by profession I could not resist hacking my own tools to make the collection of parts more fun. First and most obvious part was to add something useful to the rather limiting tools in Bricklink. Bricklink is good for ordering and finding pieces to order, but it stops there. I want to keep track of progress and price over time. And i need lists to have in handy when I count pieces in new orders. To do this with pen and paper as I did with 10134 is time consuming and prone to errors. And to rely solely on Bricklink is also prone to errors. GS_10179_01 GS_10179_02 I swiftly hacked a Google Sheets document (see attached screenshots) to fulfill my needs. I quickly realized I needed a way to import Wanted Lists or at least Set Inventories to those sheets. The latter part was easy since it require no login. So my sheets support (via custom menu) import of set inventories, with pics and all. However, I wanted to have support for Wanted Lists too, but those require login. Me being impatient did not find an easy solution to do that with Google App Scripts (it IS doable but I did not want to spend time finding a solution) so a promptly hacked another tool together - a windows forms app that can login to Bricklink and retrieve my wanted list(s) and present them in a grid, where I easily can export them to clip board, excel or file. In a perfect world I'd make those tools as one, but this was the easiest way to do it for me atm. GS_10179_03 So. I've spent about 6 months since I first started this project, but it was rather recent I begun ordering pieces for real. So far, I'm up to about 40% of the pieces at the cost of about 200 Euros. However, there are some expensive pieces left, so the price per piece count will go up - even if I try to find alternative solutions. Please free to pop by this thread for updates in the future. My goal is to have all pieces to start build before summer's over. cheers, Jens
  9. I submitted a design (Parts list + custom instructions) to and recently discovered that a user on Ebay is apparently selling the bricks to make the design and then e-mailing the buyer instructions (The listing also uses photos originally from the page). After contacting Ebay's Verified Right's Owner Program (VeRO) with a Notice of Claimed Infringement (NoCI) form, the representitive said that the case as described didn't sound like intellectual property infringement so the listing wasn't taken down. If the seller actually is distributing the instructions I made without permission, then that is against the Digitally Delivered Goods policy for Ebay sellers (, yet that's not for certain and it would be difficult to prove without buying a copy (and because the listing is private previous buyers of the item cannot be contacted to find out the specifics of what's going on). For reference here is the link to the page and the link to the Ebay page where the design is apparently being sold So, what if anything can be done now?
  10. I was thinking about selling used parts on Bricklink and was wondering if the pieces should be split into grades based on how undamaged/damaged a used part is. The end result would be maybe four separate listings for the same piece with different quantities based on how damaged/undamaged the piece is. Is getting damaged LEGO when buying from Bricklink a big deal; and if it is, is splitting each piece into four grades too much?
  11. Continuing with my project to update and refresh all of the UCS sets to use modern and readily available parts, I’ve adopted a more systematic approach and am now working through the sets in order of release. The first UCS sets were of course the 7181 Tie Interceptor and 7191 X-Wing, but the Tie Interceptor requires so many changes that it would essentially become a MOC and the X-Wing was already updated as 10240 Red Five. I’ve therefore skipped these sets, and moved on to the oldest UCS set included on the UCS 10th Anniversary Poster: 10018 Darth Maul. (Rendered with Blender via Mecabricks) Released in 2001 as a retail exclusive, the model has an interesting build though the two-tone colour scheme gets a little dull and repetitive. The instruction manual was rather unusual, using a top-down view throughout and having the model built up one layer at a time. (Rendered with Blender via Mecabricks) Being a brick-built sculpture, pretty much every part is still in production and I didn’t have to do too much work here. The most visible change is in the cylindrical block that supports the whole model, which I recoloured from black to dark bluish grey - the main component is 30562 Cylinder Quarter 4x4x6, which only appeared in black in one other set. Some of the other parts used in the original model took me by surprise, as I’ve only rarely encountered 4x6 and 4x10 bricks and I never knew 4x18 bricks even existed. These bricks have all had to be replaced with smaller bricks or combinations of other plates. One lovely touch on the original was a chrome silver antenna to represent Darth Maul’s small silver earring. Since Lego don’t do chromed parts any more, I’ve sadly had to replace it with a 4L bar in light bluish grey - though I’d advise anyone actually building this model to get a custom chrome-plated part so that the detail could be done properly. Summary of all changes to the set: You can view the model on mecabricks, and download the LDD file here. I’ve not prepared an LDraw file, because so little has changed with this refresh that the instruction manual for the original can still be used. Please note that I’ve not built this model in real bricks yet, and probably never will. Darth Maul is just a little bit too creepy for my tastes…
  12. This is the start of a very ambitious project for me - I intend to bricklink all of the UCS sets, buying all new parts. However, since every UCS set has at least one unique part/colour combination and many key parts in the older UCS sets are long out of production, I intend to “refresh” each one in the same way Lego did when they updated and rereleased the 10188/75159 Death Star playset. My goal is to change as little as possible on each model, preserve the original design and construction techniques, but replace all the hard-to-get parts with more readily available (and cheaper!) ones. I’ve been working in Lego Digital Designer, and the first set on my list is now complete: 10134 Y-wing Attack Starfighter The original model had over a dozen unique or rare pieces which have been replaced with parts that have featured in sets released within the last two years. Minor changes include replacing the unique copper hoses with reddish brown 6L and 4L bars and recolouring the dark orange parts to bright orange (the 1x2 brick with handle is now a 1x2 plate with handle sandwiched between two 1x2 plates). More major changes include the 6x6x3 domes on the front of the engine struts, which only appeared in white in one other set, and have been replaced with a set of 3x3x2 white round corner bricks mounted on white 6x6 plates and held in place using concealed SNOT bricks. The original engine pylons were constructed from technic axles covered with 7mm ribbed hoses that are now insanely expensive, so I’ve rebuilt the whole assembly using the 3L driving ring axle connector and white pin connectors (the current version has a slot in it, which is annoying but can’t really be helped). The overall length of the starfighter remains the same, but the sizes of the axles used have been altered. One part which perhaps should have been replaced is the 30359b “Bar 1 x 8 with Brick 1 x 2 Curved Top End”, which only appeared in white in 2 sets but is relatively plentiful on bricklink (I was surprised to find one German seller with over 1500 of them in stock). However, the most significant change to the model is the replacement of the white wheels forming the engine nozzle (part 32077, unique to the set) with a brick built structure that adds some extra detail Here, some bricks have been removed to better show off it’s construction: I made it as lightweight as I could, but it is still twice the weight of the original wheels . I suspect it will cause the pylons to droop over time, and I’m worried it might be enough to throw the model off balance on its stand. I also hate the way it’s mounted on a single axle, allowing it to spin almost freely, but the distance to the central turbine is 3 technic half-bushes so a pin is incompatible. I'd be curious to hear suggestions for a better version. Full details of the part changes under the spoiler tag. I've got LDD and LDraw files prepared, you can access them on bricksafe. You can also view the model on mecabricks here. Any comments on the model, my CGI images, or suggestions for improvements would be much appreciated! Edit 9/7/17: Migrated all photos from photobucket to bricksafe. I am never using photobucket again...
  13. I have decided to build the, what is in my opinion, best ship in Star Wars: the classic and sleek imperial shuttle. From making a wanted list and ticking off what I actually have, is there any other advice you guys can pass on to me? It is a bit daunting but I have amassed about 25% of the total parts and just thinking of that beauty pushes me on. Thanks.
  14. I tried to Upload the following model to my Bricklink Wanted List. I got an error message that briefly appeared on the screen before disappearing. The message read something to the effect, "the file could not be uploaded because one ore more parts are invalid or do not exist in the Bricklink library". My problem is Bricklink gives no indication what parts are good and which are "invalid", so I have no idea how to correct the file so I can upload it and order the parts. Does anyone know how I can find out which parts are "invalid" without having to upload each part individually? Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions, Sal WFB WI
  15. Hi everybody there! I'm pretty new here, after months I managed to register It's my very first post here... And I wanna make my first Lego parts order with help of you experienced Lego fans. My sets and parts are not so diverse, I recently have just got into Lego again. I have the following sets: 42043 42030 42009 8053 8261 8262 8292 8294 8283 8284 8287 8415 5206 (XD) 8441 Not so diverse as I mentioned. I have a few non-Technic sets which are not so important with the following sets, I can build a few things but I want to invest 5000 SEK (ca. 520 euros or ca. 580 dollars - excluding shippment) to buy some individual parts. I think its a relatively small budget but it can give me a boost I havent ordered any Lego parts online before, I want to know whats the most diverse and also cheapest bricklink or brickowl or etc. store to buy Technic parts. my budget isnt much so I want to have maximum amount of parts possible. a store which is has a cheap and diverse collection of Technic parts... btw, I prefer new/unused parts I also would be thankful if you help me what parts should I buy to be able to replicate most of the mocs and my own building needs... you experienced fans can give me a great boost in knowledge
  16. [BL] 10134 UCS Y-wing

    Hi, Some years ago I made some general requests about the possibilities to collect pieces to make a discontinued Lego set. Dunno if it was here or elsewhere, but I was fairly unaware of Bricklink and similar sites back then. The answers I got was that it was most likely no good idea to collect pieces, better to get the set complete. Somewhat discouraged by this I dropped the idea. 20160907_212210 by Jens, on Flickr Fast forward to this spring, when I rediscovered my interest for Lego and made a big leap into the world of AFOLs. I don't remember what started it, but the idea of getting the dream set was once again back. I got the first two UCS sets back in 2000 (X-wing and TIE interceptor) and ever since I laid my eyes on the Y-wing I wanted it. Considered it too expensive for me back then, I never bought it, something I regretted much. 20160619_185246 by Jens, on Flickr Now. To cut a long story short. I did it. I decided to get myself a 10134 UCS Y-wing. But not by paying a ridiculously amount of money for a complete set. Well, ridiculously amount for me anyway. I started off by digging into my childhood lego boxes, well aware of that it would give me worn pieces in wrong/old colors. I managed to get a fair amount of the pieces just by digging, about 33%. The rest of the pieces took about three months to get, mainly using bricklink. 20160905_175109 by Jens, on Flickr It's "easy" to get the dream set of yours. It's only a matter of money. The real challenge is to get it for a reasonable price. I quickly replaced too expensive parts with cheaper alternatives. It's a trade-off, I know, but ok for me. I tried to be as truthful to the original as possible. It required some minor "redesign" in order to get the price on a fair level. 20160906_164539 by Jens, on Flickr So. Here I am. I'm still waiting for some parts, and I will use the possibility to print stickers myself (I have a friend that can do this for me). I managed to get my dream set, or at least something very close to it, for a bit under ~150 Eur. And boy, is this set awesome! This is my fourth UCS (others being X-wing (first one), TIE interceptor and Slave-I). 20160906_195126 by Jens, on Flickr More pics can be found on my flickr, below. The moral of the story? Well, you CAN get that set you've always longed for, and for a reasonable price (per piece). It's a matter of patience, creativity and well, money. :) Next project will be... the holy grail of Star Wars Lego. Nuff said :D My flickr for Lego: Jens at Flickr
  17. A Lego Bus.

    Hello Guys. I need some help. As I am beginning to plan for my Lego city, I have realised I need public transport for my minifigures. So naturally I went onto brickset and searched up possible public transport sets. The only one was 200$! So I am now trying to build an moc bus based on the ones in the public transport set. As a inexperienced moc builder I came to the forums to seek knowledge. Does anyone know any tips? I am using LDD and LDD Manager. If anyone has an moc bus like it we might be able to strike a deal... Looking forward to hearing from you! Many thanks, Hip
  18. Since i see there are a member/people that don't know a BrickLink colors in LDD or used a color wrong. That's make me want to make a conversion. Conversion [HINT: Use Browser's search function (usually CTRL+F, or command+F for MAC) to search a colors] Light Aqua (BrickLink) = 323 - Aqua (LDD) Black (BrickLink) = 26 - Black (LDD) Tan (BrickLink) = 5 - Brick Yellow (LDD) Blue (BrickLink) = 23 - Bright Blue (LDD) Dark Turquoise (BrickLink) = 107 - Bright Bluish Green (LDD) Violet (BrickLink) = 110 - Bright Bluish Violet (LDD) Bright Green (BrickLink) = 37 - Bright Green (LDD) Orange (BrickLink) = 106 - Bright Orange (LDD) Dark Pink (BrickLink) = 221 - Bright Purple (LDD) Red (BrickLink) = 21 - Bright Red (LDD) Light Purple (BrickLink) = 198 - Bright Reddish Lilac (LDD) Magenta (BrickLink) = 124 - Bright Reddish Violet (LDD) Purple (BrickLink) = 104 - Bright Violet (LDD) Yellow (BrickLink) = 24 - Bright Yellow (LDD) Lime (BrickLink) = 119 - Bright Yellowish Green (LDD) Medium Orange (BrickLink) = 105 - Bright Yellowish Orange (LDD) Dark Flesh (BrickLink) = 217 - Brown (LDD) Pearl Light Gray (BrickLink) = 296 - Cool Silver (LDD) Metallic Silver (BrickLink) = 298 - Cool Silver, Drum Lacquered (LDD) Bright Light Yellow (BrickLink) = 226 - Cool Yellow (LDD) Salmon (BrickLink) = 123 - Bright Reddish Orange (LDD) Copper (BrickLink) = 139 - Copper (LDD) Speckle Black-Copper (BrickLink) = *306 - Defused Copper (LDD) Dark Yellow (BrickLink) = 180 - Curry (LDD) Dark Azure (BrickLink) = 321 - Dark Azur (LDD) Dark Brown (BrickLink) = 308 - Dark Brown (LDD) Green (BrickLink) = 28 - Dark Green (LDD) Dark Gray (BrickLink) = 27 - Dark Grey (LDD) Earth Orange (BrickLink) = 128 - Dark Nougat (LDD) Dark Orange (BrickLink) = 38 - Dark Orange (LDD) Dark Blue-Violet (BrickLink) = 196 - Dark Royal Blue (LDD) Dark Bluish Gray (BrickLink) = 199 - Dark Stone Grey (LDD) Sky Blue (BrickLink) = 232 - Dove Blue (LDD) Dark Blue (BrickLink) = 140 - Earth Blue (LDD) Dark Green (BrickLink) = 141 - Earth Green (LDD) Brown (BrickLink) = 25 - Earth Orange (LDD) Bright Light Orange (BrickLink) = 191 - Flame Yellowish Orange (LDD) Light Gray (BrickLink) = 2 - Grey (LDD) Lavender (BrickLink) = 325 - Lavender (LDD) Light Blue (BrickLink) = 45 - Light Blue (LDD) Aqua (BrickLink) = 118 - Light Bluish Green (LDD) Light Violet (BrickLink) = 39 - Light Bluish Violet (LDD) Light Green (BrickLink) = 6 - Light Green (LDD) Very Light Gray (BrickLink) = 103 - Light Grey (LDD) Light Flesh (BrickLink) = 283 - Light Nougat (LDD) Earth Orange (BrickLink) = 12 - Light Orange Brown (LDD) Bright Pink (BrickLink) = 222 - Light Purple (LDD) Pink (BrickLink) = 9 - Light Reddish Violet (LDD) Bright Light Blue (BrickLink) = 212 - Light Royal Blue (LDD) Very Light Bluish Gray (BrickLink) = 208 - Light Stone Grey (LDD) Light Yellow (BrickLink) = 3 - Light Yellow (LDD) Light Lime (BrickLink) = 120 - Light Yellowish Green (LDD) Medium Azure (BrickLink) = 322 - Medium Azur (LDD) Medium Blue (BrickLink) = 102 - Medium Blue (LDD) Light Turquoise (BrickLink) = 116 - Medium Bluish Green (LDD) Medium Violet (BrickLink) = 112 - Medium Bluish Violet (LDD) Medium Green (BrickLink) = 29 - Medium Green (LDD) Medium Lavender (BrickLink) = 324 - Medium Lavender (LDD) Dark Purple (BrickLink) = 268 - Medium Lilac (LDD) Medium Dark Flesh (BrickLink) = 312 - Medium Nougat (LDD) Dark Pink (BrickLink) = 22 - Medium Reddish Violet (LDD) Light Bluish Gray (BrickLink) = 194 - Medium Stone Grey (LDD) Chrome Gold (BrickLink) = 310 - Metalized Gold (LDD) Pearl Dark Gray (BrickLink) = 148 - Metallic Dark Grey (LDD) Metal Blue (BrickLink) = 145 - Metallic Sand Blue (LDD) Flat Dark Gold (BrickLink) = 147 - Metallic Sand Yellow (LDD) Pearl White (BrickLink) = 183 - Metallic White (LDD) Dark Red (BrickLink) = 154 - New Dark Red (LDD) Flesh (BrickLink) = 18 - Nougat (LDD) Olive Green (BrickLink) = 330 - Olive Green (LDD) Maersk Blue (BrickLink) = 11 - Pastel Blue (LDD) Glow In Dark Trans (BrickLink) = 294 - Phosphorescent Green (LDD) Glow In Dark Opaque (BrickLink) = 294 - Phosphorescent White (LDD) Reddish Brown (BrickLink) = 192 - Reddish Brown (LDD) Blue-Violet (BrickLink) = 195 - Royal Blue (LDD) Sand Blue (BrickLink) = 135 - Sand Blue (LDD) Sand Green (BrickLink) = 151 - Sand Green (LDD) Sand Red (BrickLink) = 153 - Sand Red (LDD) Sand Purple (BrickLink) = 136 - Sand Violet (LDD) Dark Tan (BrickLink) = 138 - Sand Yellow (LDD) Flat Silver (BrickLink) = 315 - Silver Metallic (LDD) Yellowish Green (BrickLink) = 326 - Spring Yellowish Green (LDD) Pearl Dark Gray (BrickLink) = 316 - Titanium Metallic (LDD) Trans-Clear (BrickLink) = 40 - Transparent (LDD) Trans-Dark Blue (BrickLink) = 43 - Transparent Blue (LDD) Glitter Trans-Purple (BrickLink) = 129 - Transparent Bluish Violet (Glitter) (LDD) Trans Purple (BrickLink) = 126 - Transparent Bright Bluish Violet (LDD) Trans-Bright Green (BrickLink) = 311 - Transparent Bright Green (LDD) Trans-Orange (BrickLink) = 182 - Transparent Bright Orange (LDD) Trans-Pink (BrickLink) = 230 - Transparent Bright Purple (LDD) Trans-Purple (BrickLink) = 236 - Transparent Bright Reddish Lilac (LDD) Trans-Bright Green (BrickLink) = 227 - Transparent Bright Yellowish Green (LDD) Trans-Black (BrickLink) = 111 - Transparent Brown (LDD) Trans-Light Orange (BrickLink) = 231 - Transparent Flame Yellowish Orange (LDD) Trans-Medium Blue (BrickLink) = 143 - Transparent Fluorescent Blue (LDD) Trans-Neon Green (BrickLink) = 49 - Transparent Fluorescent Green (LDD) Trans-Neon Orange (BrickLink) = 47 - Transparent Fluorescent Reddish Orange (LDD) Trans-Green (BrickLink) = 48 - Transparent Green (LDD) Trans-Light Blue (BrickLink) = 42 - Transparent Light Blue (LDD) Trans-Very Lt Blue (BrickLink) = 229 - Transparent Light Bluish Green (LDD) Trans-Dark Pink (BrickLink) = 113 - Transparent Medium Reddish Violet (LDD) Glitter Trans-Dark Pink (BrickLink) = 114 - Transparent Pink Glitter (LDD) Trans-Red (BrickLink) = 41 - Transparent Red (LDD) Trans-Light Purple (BrickLink) = 284 - Transparent Reddish Lilaq (LDD) Glitter Trans-Clear (BrickLink) = 117 - Transparent with Glitter (LDD) Trans-Yellow (BrickLink) = 44 - Transparent Yellow (LDD) Pearl Gold (BrickLink) = 297 - Warm Gold (LDD) Metallic Gold (BrickLink) = *299 - Lacquered Gold/Warm Gold (LDD) White (BrickLink) = 1 - White (LDD) Glow In Dark White (BrickLink) = 329 - White Glow (LDD) _Colors not show in the paint tool, but will show correctly if use LXFML colors edit. *Brick not show correctly, but description yes. This conversion is from Brickset and my research. This conversion is just for color that exist in both LDD and BrickLink.
  19. Greetings! I would like to invite you to my BrickLink store - Shady Bricks: You can place an order via private message, or through the store, if you are a registered BrickLink user. All sets, parts and minifigures are packed in separate zip-lock bags. I ship worldwide. Payment by PayPal. Prices are negotiable! I look forward to your offers!
  20. IMPORTANT Message to LEGO Sellers

    This is something important I realized while shopping for nexo knight and star wars parts. Many of you know that you can scan the Nexo Shields on the app which makes them a nice addition to any collection. However I attempted and succeeded in scanning the shields over the product images on the sellers page. Here is proof: and another: I did contact the seller and let him know and now i want to share this with you so that you do not get ripped off. Hope this helped anyone
  21. Five years ago when the Super Star Destroyer 10221 came out, I couldn't dream of buying it. In Canada, with taxes and possibly shipping combined you were looking at around $600.00 for it - which I'd already dropped on the Death Star playset and that was, I felt, the maximum I would ever spend on Lego. I simply decided that the SSD wasn't happening in this lifetime and that was that. But after MOCing the rest of the major OT locatons/ships, five years later this one slot remained empty into an otherwise comprehensive collection. I had to have that Executor, I thought. Checked out some listings on eBay, Kijiji and of course Bricklink. The markup would have made me spit coffee at my screen - if I drank coffee. The prices were lowest at $1400.00 CDN. There was one complete and assembled going for $1100. Unreal - but understandable. It's a limited edition high demand item. A compromise was made and I started to Bricklink Pellaeon's brilliantly designed Midi Scale Super Star Destroyer found here. It would cost me about $70 to get the parts I needed for it on Bricklink. It is a beauty of a design and TLG would be smart to adopt this kind of scale for such a distinguished and iconic OT Star Wars ship. But it nagged at me - in the back of my head - if I did build this, would I be satisfied with the scale? Despite already ordering parts for the midi scale, I started to sink deep into the abyss of Bricklink and multiple blogs, posts and threads on the subject of Bricklinking large sets. I was hooked on the idea of this huge set I couldn't afford. But I also discovered some very important information - the UCS Super Star Destroyer contains no super special, highly priced parts that only appear in that set, 10221. Encouraged by this, I found a great price on replacement stickers and that was that - I was invested and there was no turning back. The goal was to get this half price. If I got the price down to $300.00 ($200-250 USD?) I could do it. It wouldn't break the bank so to speak and the full size SSD could be realised. It would just take several long nights alone working out which pieces to buy, who from, and what sets I had that I could cannibalize for parts... ...especially wedges. There are over 100 wedges of the 3x12 type in this model. It ended up being mostly a scramble to see if I could get the right number of the right color and how cheap. Here's where it got weird: the light grey wedge pieces are very common in both Star Wars and non Star Wars kits. They are, for that reason, highly in demand because people want them to build all manner of MOCs. This was reflective in the prices. So what I ended up doing was only using those more valued light grey wedges for the top and the absolute bottom layer of the base. The rest of the build I would use dark grey 3x12 wedges, of which they were much more available and cheap. So if you are willing to cut costs down with a bit of color changes, I'm sure the choice saved me close to $100.00. The build of this thing was very exciting. There are 4 main stages, the base, the spine, the "cityscape" on top (with the bridge) and the perimeter neckline that gives the SSD its distinctive shape. Building these stages, I was serious about getting the base and spine as accurately built as possible, lending some flexibility to the top bits which are arguably more cosmetic. Lots of rainbow colors came out to help put the base together. Sadly this resulted in a lot more work near the end, as I had to rip apart the whole thing to replace some of the rainbow bits that were visible from the lateral strips that hug the sides of this giant beast. Most of the rainbow bits were contained but I was surprised how deep into the ship you can see once you've got a lot of light coming in to the display. The spine was tricky - I had used a bunch of smaller beams in my haste and once the Bricklink shipment with all the long technic beams came, I was compelled to replace some but not all of them. The stability was and still is decent. I'm proud to say that it ended up being rather swooshable (with a firm grip of course!) Once I got to the cityscape part of it, I started taking a few minor liberties. There were a couple of areas where I got lost, in particular with the intricacies around the recessed bridge scene. In the end, I took a leap of faith based on assembly videos and was invaluable. Even though it didn't show every step (the instructions were good for that) it was super helpful to see everything in real three dimensions. I spent a lot of time reviewing and pausing Brickbuilder's helpful video to check the build. I'm sure it wasn't made to assist in a build but it certainly did.One area that I went completely "off book" was the triangle-shaped bit that brings together the front taper of the ship with the back end - I hadn't ordered enough 4x4 wedge plates and I was getting impatient. I just rammed together some bits to make it work and so far it seems perfectly sturdy and I have no plans to revisit it. The discrepancy might stick out to owners of the official kit, but no worries for me. Finally I had one last Bricklink package arrive with dozens more 2x12 plates and 2x4 plates to help fit together the two large strips that make up the outer edges of the top. Since I'm still not 100% finished with it (it's done but I plan to work more on it when time allows) so for that reason I haven't anchored down the two strips using those 12 door hinge plates on the undersides. So those parts are a little loose - with too much shake the end plug can pop out and send the two strips flying off. So I reinforced them a bit more to survive ejecting to the floor. That's why there are a few extra wedges attached to the underside of these strips. It may look a little wonky but the reinforcement it provides is well worth it. As for the figures, Bossk is a major holdout. I will buy him eventually. For now, I'm satisfied with the stand-in involving the Chima croc head. It's certainly worth mentioning that I didn't bother with the stands (or the plaque) but I plan to build them someday. My shelf actually allows it to be displayed without the stands. The only issue is it cannot be displayed flat on a table - it needs to dangle off part of the table to avoid ramming the engines into it and have an engine array collapsing on the floor in a million pieces. That only happened once, so far. There are a few bits on the underside that use the wrong dark grey. Those will be swapped out eventually. I'm surprised there wasn't more. We've got some stand-ins for 4-Lom and Zuckuss, too! Thanks for reading this. I am super thrilled with it. It was a satisfying build that I managed to pull off within budget and about three months of spare time. What a satisfying and mighty sight. Although I regret not getting it an retail, having one slightly imperfect at half price is a great thing. Questions, comments, etc welcome. Oh yes, of course, the obligatory "no disintegrations" scene!! "You are free to use any methods necessary, but I want them alive..."
  22. I recently finished bricklinking a UCS Death Star II, and finally got around to putting it up the pictures. Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr A shot of the front Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr Backside Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr A picture of the "Eye." I misordered 2x4 left wedges in dark grey, so I went with it Death Star photos by North White, on Flickr The lil' Super star destroyer included for scale. I modded it a bit because I didn't like the conning tower design with the binoculars. Overall, 10143 is a very fun build, and mostly uses cheap pieces. Mostly. I just went with a dark grey 10x10 dish on top because light grey is way pricey. Otherwise, the main problem was finding enough grey wings from the same seller. That and the fact that I ordered most of the parts at 1am after work, and so I messed up quite a few of the orders .
  23. Hello all Eurobrickers! Today is a great day for the community as a MOC is making its long awaited release to the public! That's right, Mortesv's UCS-Scale Nebulon-B Medical Frigate now has plans ready for purchase The purchase of these plans includes a professional grade manual totaling at 1,493 pages, the LDD files used to create the manual, an excel spreadsheet covering the 531 unique parts lot and their quantity, and a bonus LDD file that contains to scale models of fighter ships to put next to Nebulon when it is on display! So to recap, a purchase of these plans includes the original LDD files, a 1,493 page instruction manual, an excel spreadsheet parts list, and a bonus LDD file with to-scale fighters. The final price for this awesome bundle is 50 U.S Dollars ($50). If you are interested in purchasing a copy, please PM me or send an email to The final MOC contains 5,728 pieces, which would make it the largest Lego Star Wars set if it were released on shelves. The ship measures about 4 feet long when completed! A lot of hard work went into this project on both the designing end and the manual end, and Mortesv and I are very excited to give everyone the chance to build this awesome MOC! Here are some images from the manual: May the force be with you and happy building!!!
  24. I'm looking for parts on bricklink this morning and found it received a major update. It looks nice but seems to be running slow and I'm getting errors. Anyone else have the same experience?
  25. I just spent a few moments on the new bricklink. My first impressions are that it is definitely designed to be more mobile friendly and hopefully will work with an app. I would say that the lack of color listing below each part is a major step backward. You have to click on the part to go to the parts attribute page. Not a big deal but if you are trying to make a large MOC and need to compare totals of different colors its now a bit of a pain. The keyword feature does not seen to work in the search mechanism. I am sure that is just a bug though.