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Found 29 results

  1. Anders T

    [MOC] HMS Surprise

    Just browsed through the forum and could not find this anywhere. Think I just forgot to share it. Mentioned her some time ago in the General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread. If she is hiding somewhere in the forum, I do hope someone has the chops to remove this topic. Scale 1:40’ish L: 150 cm B: 26 cm H: 114 Bricks approx. 19300. Looking back at my earlier designs I found that my version of the HMS Surprise, just like the HMS Ontario, was somewhat wanting. This is a model of the HMS Surprise launched as the corvette Unité in 1794. In 1796, The Royal Navy conquered, refitted and renamed her. She later on chased pirates in the Caribbean for several years. The ship plays a central role in the Aubery-Maturin stories. This includes the movie from 2003 Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World. The HMS Rose, which was later, renamed HMS Surprise, plays the “role” as HMS Surprise. Neat, but somewhat confusing. Being notoriously bad at taking photos of my creations there is some Renders below, these are also in the General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread. …but you need to look at the LDD file to get a view of the details of the creation. Find it at MOCPAGES http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/452403 She has been on display at LW Copenhagen 2019. A Swedish AFOL has taken some fine Pictures from the event on this link. Hope it is ok that I link to this https://www.flickr.com/photos/86394332@N03/47062421172/in/album-72157705321073761/ There are also some more photos including WIP at my Flickr page. https://www.flickr.com/photos/131641614@N06/with/46031790204/
  2. I'm designing an RC technic car (C8 Corvette) in Stud.io that I want to race against some other people. How many L-motors will I need to get the car up to a reasonable speed? (I'd like it to go around 5-10 mph, basically anything faster than a slow crawl). I have 2 L-motors built into the car right now, but I have a feeling they won't be powerful enough. I'm planning on using a BuWizz battery pack for power and bluetooth control. The car has around 1200 parts, so it probably weighs 3 pounds or so. I built a four speed sequential transmission into the car as well. For a car of this weight, should I use 4 L-motors?
  3. Hi guys. First time posting here and I thought I'd share some of the modifications I've done to set 42093. Now I realize that I'm late to this party. This set has been out since late 2018/early 2019 and most people have probably already made up their mind on it, modded it, left it as it is or scrapped it for parts. However I figured that as long as it had potential it would be a pity to just leave it as it is and perhaps someone else may find these modifications useful. This is going to be a rather lengthy post with plenty of details and pictures so grab a good drink, sit back, relax and enjoy. Let's start with a bit of intro. Prior to this year I was not familiar at all with the Lego range when it comes to vehicles (both System & Technic). As a car enthusiast I had plenty of mostly die-cast models of various sizes and I was always looking for that one cool model to add to the collection, but didn't think that I could find the accuracy or details needed with constructions made out of the little bricks. One day however I stumbled across a LEGO store on a lunch break and decided to go in. For some reason set 76897, Speed Champions - Audi Sport Quattro, caught my eye and I bought it. After assembly I really liked it so some days later I bought another set, the Camaro. Then another set and another and another until I saw the Corvette ZR1. It was bigger than what I already had, a Technic set which I wasn't familiar with and it was at a good discount. I also liked Corvettes, started around the time the new C6 was released in mid 2000s and have pretty much liked them ever since. So I got the set, built it and really liked it. Yes, it was indeed a bit rough with details, but overall a good effort and a great starting point with Technic. Not too small, not too big. Seeing as how I also liked the B model and wanted to improve the A as well I got another set, built both and made some modifications using some other sets I bought since. Right now my method of going about this is to have the larger sets with proper licensed cars and enhance them with parts from the smaller sets. I'm interested in adding structural strength, not having any parts that are either very stressed or at risk of easily falling off, not having any weird connections or parts that can effortlessly move out of alignment and generally adding detail where needed. With this mindset I got about modifying the Corvette and also building and modifying the Hot Rod. So let's begin. Here they are together, bad boys for life. Right off the bat you may notice that the Corvette's front is a bit different and the Hot Rod's front is plenty different from the original. For the next section we'll continue with the Corvette and then move on to the Hot Rod. CORVETTE ZR1 Here it is, pictured below next to its box. What I wanted to achieve with my modifications was fill in the details and also make it more robust if possible. The core structure has been mostly left unchanged with the exception of the rearward area to make room for wider tires. I'll detail that portion when we get to it. Right now we'll start at the front. Some of the first changes I'd like to point out here are: - extended the front lower spoiler by one stud outwards and also added more detail for the front area, especially around the headlights; - changed the gray beam with cross axle from just before the "ZR1" sticker with an orange one (rather small change but does make a difference in cohesiveness of colors); -you'll also notice the reverted and lowered rear wing but we'll be discussing that in more detail last. Another look at the front and the improved look. We have three black beams here at the nose. Two 6 Half Beams joined together on top and one 5x1 just below. At the bottom there's another 5x1 beam in orange. To the sides, just where the orange fins end I also added a pair of the black grilled elements used for vents at the rear. They look good as the real small side-fins you find on the actual car. The original 2x1 with one cross pin beams were moved from inwards to the headlights to just above the soft curved axle, to the right and the left of where the hood ends. Their place has been taken by 3x1 orange beams which fit well there and remove the original gaps one could see around the headlights. Here's a picture of the bottom to see how the front spoiler was extended. You may also note, just behind the front steering lower gray connector (Cross Block 3X2 ), an extra 5x3 L black beam. It reinforces the chassis and better connects it to the orange bottom panel as well. If you want your model to bend less this is a mod to consider. It looks so complete with it that I don't understand why it wasn't included from the start. You'll also see the 43.2x22 rear wheels. These you can find in 42103 Dragster if you're only doing the Corvette/Hot Rod or 42072 Whack if you want 4 of them so you can use them for both models. Otherwise I'm sure many of you may already have some around from older sets. In order to fit the wider tires without sticking out or rubbing internally I had to made other modifications, which I'll get to a bit later. Onto the engine bay. You can see the new gray half bushes replacing the yellow ones. Also the 1x1 Beams as cylinder sleeves. They leave plenty of space for the crankshaft to lift the pistons, they stabilize the pistons in their motion, add weight so the pistons more easily come down and they look cool. The crankshaft "cam" order was also changed to better match that of the rear car. So the new order of the cams in order from the front to the rear is: top-left-right-bottom. Originally it was top-left-bottom-right. There are a few other aesthetic changes for the engine. I filled in the gap in the beam right before the first two pistons. I used a frictionless pin, here covered with a little black cap. I also added 4 such blue frictionless pins as engine mounts, you can see a couple of them to the front of the engine. All in all I feel that these modifications make it look more like an actual motor. It's more complete and with more realistic colours. The original interior was rather sparse. Just one black 4x2 L beam with the steering wheel attached at one end. So I added a full two-tone dash with a central indicator (sort of mimics the digital real one) as well as a small central console with a red shift knob and either a beverage in a cup holder or a rotary button. Gray would have maybe been a more realistic color for the knob but I only had the red one readily available and think it works better from an attention grabbing point of view. The whole assembly is mounted to the bottom light gray beam via 2 long red push pins at the sides. I tried to replicate the original interior more, but there was just not enough space, not as it is but with also the two axles for drive and steering there and generally not many mounting points in that area at all. I also had to move the headrest mounting position. The original pieces that connected it to the doors I mounted just behind it to limit its travel. You'll also notice the black 4x2 L beams behind the doors. I used them to move the door one stud forwards. More on this just below, but before we move on I'd like to add that originally I tried to see if I could link the steering wheel with the steering axle. The fact that they would spin in the same direction when turning gave me hope but soon I realized that there was not enough space for a geared assembly and I simply did not have a proper rubber hand readily available at the time. Plus, it would have meant taking apart quite a few parts to put the band around the axle. Still, if someone has the white rubber bands that come with some sets or replacements that would work and is willing to try it out, this might be a worthy mod to investigate to get a working steering well. You could use half bushes to secure the band at both ends or ever some one sided half gears. The side view. You can see that the doors have been pushed forward one stud. This fills in the space in front of them better and moves the vent sticker starting location to a more realistic location, just before the A pillar. The vent sticker is a bit covered at the lower portion, but it's an acceptable compromise. The extension is done by mounting a 4x2 L beam just in front of the rear wheel arch. I only had one extra orange one and not two to do the other side so I opted for black, but I think it looks good and can mimic an actual vent. I also opted for a small 2x1 bream with one cross to tie in the rear wheel arch with the bottom orange 5x3 L beam. This pulls in the area above the wheel and makes it better fill that space. The connection isn't 100% perfect since the arch panel does follow the tilted angle of the rear section, but it's a strong connection and there's minimal stress on the parts. You can also see the lowered and inverted rear wing and the two mirror elements used as C pillars. I did have to "borrow" them from the Hot Rod (don't worry I put something else there in return) but I think it was worth it as they fill in the place rather well. A closer view of the rear area, where the most changes were made. We'll start off easily with a new orange 3x1 beam just between the lowered wing and the roof. Initially there was nothing here. Adding it in fills in the space much better and it's a good mount using the blue pins which are also now holding the wing. More on the wing connection later. We can better observe the orange mirror pieces, acting as C pillars. Now we go to the more significant changes. Moving the entire door one stud forward meant changing almost all connections there. To start with, the orange 3x5 beam to which it's still connected had to move one stud forward. The connection between this beam and the door needed to be preserved due to the straight angle between them, also because this 5x3 beam is the one responsible for the tilt of the entire section so there was no way to connect the door to anything else and still preserve the tilt. The door is connected to the orange L beam via the 2nd, 4th and 5th pin holes with 90 degree black connectors. The top two pin holes are used with regular black pins to hold the black 4x2 L beam. As a consequence of moving the door forward the headrest assembly could not longer be connected to it cleanly. Luckily the move did create enough space so that the headrest assembly could be mounted directly to the chassis via a couple of vertical beams. The original connectors can now be seen at its back, limiting the travel of the horizontal portion. As a note, connecting the headrest assembly to the chassis, rather than the wings does mean it's now vertical and not tilted. It works just as well and maybe even better as it offers the ability to tilt the top portion slightly. A lower view with the wheel removed. You can better see how the door is connected to the orange L beam. At the bottom of the orange L beam is a 3x3 T piece to which the vertical beams for the headrest assembly are mounted. You'll notice that now there are a couple of 3x1 yellow beams for the tilting mechanism, with the second one added at the rear, just behind the red push pin holding the roof fixed. This is a not a required change, but I found that fixing the first yellow beam between the orange L one on one side and the black one leading to the other yellow beam on the other side stabilized it, limited its travel and generally added more robustness. The black beam between the yellow ones can be 6 studs in length but I only had it in 7 studs. It worked better I think as the offset one stud at the front would stop against the headrest vertical beams, limiting an unnecessary forward movement of the whole assembly. All in all this setup works fine. There's no interference with the rest of the parts, acts as a more study mounting platform for the tilting mechanism and also fills in that rear section a bit more. Previously looking at it from one side was greeted with a rather empty space. As a last note here nothing was done to the wheel connector itself. The larger 22 wide wheel (14 initially) fits in well with just a couple of mm sticking out of the wheel arch. The wheel is connected via a 4 stud long black axle with a full bush tucked just inside of the wheel arch. It looks good and to make it fully flush with the wheel arch you'll need to modify the rear assembly around the differential which I'm not sure is worth doing also since it will make returning to the narrower tires more difficult should you ever have the need to swap them back out again. These modifications, initially made to make room for the wider wheels but also to move the doors with the vent sticker further forward to better align the looks with that of the real car did take some time to figure out but I'm very happy with the result. More work is indeed involved taking this section apart and putting it back together but otherwise the parts fit well together and also prop each other up. With these mods there's little risk of damaging the model or having connections come apart when picking it up and playing with it. The rear section. Not many modifications here. Primarily the wing has been inverted to better resemble the rear one and was also lowered by one stud. You can see the connection via the blue pins which also hold in place the 3x1 orange beam mentioned earlier. Additionally you may notice a couple of extra Cross Block 3M beams just above where the exhaust pipes end. This used to be empty space before and I didn't like it much. You may also use the regular 3x1 black beams but those are rarer and the Cross Block works better IMO with the rest of the parts there. In time maybe I can find a solution to have the taillights more closely resemble the real ones and also get rid of the pin holes from the second orange beam from the top. In theory it should be rather easy with two 1x1 and two 4x2 orange System parts (or any combination that would fill that space well), but I don't have those yet. That mostly does it for the Corvette. Apart from the changes I mentioned I also put some more blue pins in a few places to better tie down some parts but that would be a small change all in all. As for general aesthetics I may change a bit here and there but for the most part I'm happy. I think it looks reasonably better than it did originally. All in all about 50 or so extra parts (including connecting pins) had to be used. Most would be optional, but the more significant (extending front spoiler, extending doors, lowering rear wing, more details on the interior) changes would require a minimum of about 25 extra pieces. In this form the model is very sturdy, there are no parts that are at risk of easily coming off and there's only minimal extra stress on maybe a couple of parts. The takeaway here is that making room for the wider tires and extending the door proved to be rather difficult. Considering the size and the limited space there, not to mention the fact that most connections would not be traditionally possible due to the tilting of the rear portion I say the original design was pretty good. It did capture the aspect well and there were no obvious ways to dramatically improve it with the set part count. If only this would have a been a straight 600 piece set from the start I'm sure some of these changes would have been included from the start and the reception to the set would have been better initially. HOT ROD Now onto the Hot Rod. The original design was pretty good but a bit barren as plenty of parts from the A model were not used in the instructions. I wanted to really flesh it out and also give it a more menacing look. As for sturdiness, it was already sturdy enough but now it looks even more so. A big difference from the original would be in the front area. I kept the headlight stands, but removed the headlights and instead added the panels used for the Corvette's taillights. The yellow indicators are from the 42103 Dragster set and the four headlights from 42104 Race Truck or 42088 Cherry Picker (only has two though, but plenty of other useful parts). Where the headlights would have been mounted I added a couple of pieces which can resemble proper "get out the way, move b..." horns. I also added a proper front bumper, a bit Mad Max style since I didn't like how exposed the steering assembly was initially. The bumper side pieces are from the Cherry Picker and the central bit from the Dragster. Here's a frontal pic. I think it resembles a praying mantis and that I find quite appealing. A three quarter view. Important modifications would be the wider 43.2x22 mm tires, just like for the Corvette. This was much easier though. I had to use some slightly longer axles and half bushes a their ends so they wouldn't look strange sticking out from the wheels like that. The engine got the same treatment with the cylinder sleeves represented by 1x1 beams. I left the yellow half bushes as pistons. For one they fit this model better, second I don't have enough gray ones to fit here and also fit to other models where really needed. There's also a couple of extra fins between the exhaust and the original, longitudinally mounted fins. There's another picture below better showing the setup. Another addition would be the side-mirrors, which I'm not 100% sure about. They look like mirrors but are a bit too bulky for my taste. Right now with the leftover parts I don't see an obvious, much better solution and would rather not spend some of the more exotic ones. With the setup as it is though the mirrors remain well in place and have a decent range of motions. A closer look. The second pair of orange wings are attached via a Cross Block piece. That piece is linked at the rear with a Beam 1X2 W/Cross And Hole which connects the black 4x2 L beam you see on top with another orange 6x1 beam at the bottom. An interior screenshot from the other side posted below shows more. I also replaced the black exhaust endings with silver ones from the Dragster. They look much more like real exhausts now. The side view. You can start to better see the extra seats in the interior and an extra wing added at the back. Interior time. I added a full length dashboard rather than the original 3 stud wide beam only meant to hold the steering wheel. There's a single instrument right in the center as would have been the case originally for many such old cars. I also added a floor mounted shifter. The part is 6553 Catch and has a red bush on top for a knob. We also have two seats mimicking gray and black fabric (or leather for the more pretentious kind). They're three 5x3 L beams. They're linked to the middle assembly there via black pins going though the center of what would be the seat bottom. I also put an axle though though the first pinhole to better secure them together. Here you can also better see why the mirrors don't look fully fine. I'm missing the smooth face pieces to connect to get rid of the studs on them but for now I have to make do. I suspect I should get them or find a better altogether alternative before too long though. Here's a photo from the opposite angle, showing better how the seats are connected. No changes further back of the seats. Also, as they are, the seats cannot be moved further back as they'd interfere with part of the opening top portion and the yellow axle acting as a reinforcement for same portion. Onto the rear. The extended rear wing came because I wanted to fill in the top and actually ran out of the original length parts. So I had to place some extended beams instead and saw that it gave me just enough space to mount a couple of small wings. They worked out just fine and also allowed me to attach indicators and taillights. I think it looks cool like that, like a mini-truck cab that had been used for the body instead of a smaller vehicle's cab. Finally, here's a bottom pic. There are no structural changes here. You can see a couple of beam colors swapped at the front, the floor mounted shifter next to the central axle and the wide rear tires. Nothing rubs, nothing clashes, all work well together. That's pretty much it. Right now the models are fit enough to be proudly displayed alongside my die casts. I'm sure that as I get more parts I may even swap out a few details or colors for certain parts. Small details aside the original designs were pretty much nailed when it comes to proportions for such a (small) scale. It's a pity they couldn't add a few extra pieces here and there to fill some of the empty spaces a bit more. Anyway I don't see how much more could be done for this scale. Any gearbox or motorization added would either alter the proportions or at the very least get rid of the interior as we've already seen with some mods for this set. For me though, at this scale, I'd prefer interiors and details as these models will remain assembled as display pieces. Next on my list would be to build some of the larger sets (to help me get through the COVID-19 quarantine boredom) and will use the spare pieces from the smaller sets to buff and add details to them. I've done the Defender, next should be the Chiron and maybe then the Car Transporter. The plan is that by the time I'm done with that I should have enough experience and spare parts to build my first custom (MOC) car to put on its platform next to the blue car (which will be modified to better resemble a real life car). With that I do hope that some of you will find value in these modifications. By all means, if you're still interested in this set try them out and if you get stuck at a certain point and don't know how I did a certain modification let me know. I'll gladly help out.
  4. OpenBagTwo

    [MOC] 2020 Corvette C8

    Since the first time I saw one, I've been in love with the third-generation Corvette and been fascinated by the man behind it, Zora Arkus-Duntov, a man who'd fled the Nazis, raced at Le Mans and become so enamored by the early Corvettes that he talked his way into a job at GM as an engineer. While the original Corvettes were soft luxury cars, designed to compete with the Ford Thunderbird, Arkus-Duntov saw the car's potential as a European-style, proper sports car, and with the C3 Stingray, that's what it became. But Arkus-Duntov had greater ambitions for the Corvette--as early as 1959, he toyed with the concept of putting the engine behind the driver, but while he continued to refine the idea over the next four decades, he could never quite get GM to green-light a production model of a mid-engined Corvette. Zora Arkus-Duntov died in 1996 having made the Corvette into America's sports car, but without ever succeeding in making it America's supercar. Last week, GM President Mark Reuss unveiled the newest generation of Corvette, the C8. It would feature aggressive jet fighter inspired styling, eschew the traditional leaf-spring suspension for proper coil-overs... and finally, finally, place its massive powerful 495 bhp 6.2L behind the driver. This is my Lego model of that car. It's obviously too early to know how the car performs and handles, but I have a feeling it will do Arkus-Duntov proud. I'm Here, Father by Antar Iliev, on Flickr The C3 MOC in the above and the following shots is by the amazing Jonathan Elliot. New Century, Same Vision by Antar Iliev, on Flickr Evolution and Revolution by Antar Iliev, on Flickr I've made available PDF instructions, digital files and parts lists for this moc all via Rebrickable.
  5. REVIEW - 42093 - CHEVROLET CORVETTE ZR1 INTRODUCTION We do see a lot of licensed Technic sets lately. In that regard, this set is not special. What is special, is the scale of this model. At first glance, you might not notice it, but this is a rather small set, still packing lots of details. At a price of € 39,99 you basically can't go wrong. Let's see if that is indeed the case. But before we do that, take a look at what we are aiming for. This review might be less detailed than usual, but time was limited. Sorry about that. I do hope you enjoy it anyway! PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42093 Title: Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 Theme: Technic Released: 2019 Part Count: 579 Box Weight: 748 gram Box Dimensions: 35,3 cm x 18,9 cm x 9,0 cm Set Price (RRP): € 39,99 Price per Part: € 0,069 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Booklet 1x Sticker sheet 6x Unnumbered bags BOOKLET STICKER SHEET BAGS HIGHLIGHTED PARTS TECHNIC MUDGUARD 9 x 3 x 2 This new part is the slightly smaller variant of the big mudguard panel we see quite often nowadays. I am looking forward to seeing this part appear in other official sets and/or MOCs. One can get very creative with it. 11 x 3 CURVED PANELS I overlooked the fact that these panels are new too. Thanks to @Ngoc Nguyen for pointing it out. WHEELS AND RIMS At first, these parts don't seem so special, but they kinda are. The tires only appear in the London Bus and the rims are new in black. Both slightly smaller than the rims in and tires we often see in the pull-back racer sets. 20T DOUBLE BEVEL GEAR WITH CLUTCH This gear first appeared in the Bugatti Chiron and it's good to see it pop-up in another set. Quote from the Chiron review; it's basically the same as the regular 20T bevel gear, but it has a pin hole, instead of axle hole. And it has clutches on both sides. PART LIST I was surprised to see two pages, for the number of parts (579). This is because the smaller size of the booklet. THE BUILD The blue clutch gear is used to connect the HoG steering to the rear axle. The differential is (indirectly) connected to the crankshaft. Since this is a smaller scale car, it uses a different fake engine design. Here you can see the crankshaft, lifting the cylinders. The bottom of the chassis...no surprises here. The left-over parts. COMPLETED MODEL There has been some debate about this car, and its resemblance to the real car. Obviously, it's hard to get it entirely right, but I do think the designer delivered a remarkably fine model! Especially with the scale in mind. If I have to name one negative thing, it would not be the front of the car. It would be the doors, or lack thereof. The side panels don't open up. Admittedly, the rear of the car shows a more characteristic Corvette look than the front. Just enough stickers to add some details to the car. Comparison between the front and rear. Bottom view of the entire chassis. What I absolutely love about this model is its working V8 engine. The cylinders are actually moving, and they are clearly visible. This adds a lot of value for me. Here are some extra pictures showing the Corvette in all its glory. B-MODEL Not the first time we have seen a Hotrod B-model, but who doesn't love a Hotrod?! It looks interesting enough to give it a go. SUMMARY This summary will be short and simple. I love everything about this model. Given the scale, the designer really made this model stand out. And for 40 euros you get a very fun little model. That boils down to only 6,5 eurocent per part, which is cheap. This is the perfect gift if you are looking for a reasonably priced Technic set. Two big thumbs up for this set! I sure hope we get more sets like this, which obviously is to be expected. PROS Price! HoG steering Working V8 Design New mudguard panels New rims and tires CONS Doors don't open (minor gripe) SCORE How do I rate this set? 9 DESIGN Perfect design, given the scale. 7 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Enjoyable, but nothing really special. 7 FEATURES The working V8 engine is very cool. 7 PLAYABILITY It does what a car does, with HoG steering. 8 PARTS The new panels and tires/rims can be interesting for MOC builders. 9 VALUE FOR MONEY Can't go wrong for this price. 7,8 GREAT VALUE FOR MONEY FINAL WORDS Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found here.
  6. Specifications: (source: feature video, see above) I do not own the rights for the original design: the ship is created for a hard sci-fi audio drama The Sojourn produced by Spacedock. The model is created using LEGO Digital Designer, rendered in POV-Ray and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop. The Instructions are available on my Gumroad Store FOR FREE: https://gumroad.com/l/sjrn_gvnvr Thank you for your attention!
  7. When the first time a hammerhead corvette appeared in the Star Wars universe, it was the start of a fantastic journey. After the Endar Spire the Hammerhead was seen for the first time by Rebels and in Rouge One it had its biggest appearance so far. Now the Hammerhead Corvette has earned its place among the best starships. HC7_1_2 by IRONDUCK, on Flickr HC9_1 HC8_1 HC10_1 HC3_1
  8. I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHsky5B5Cd Instruction: Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B14dC4ffenNhR1NJa1ZuZGgzVVU Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ancnq6nvmtuuaja/Z06.zip?dl=0
  9. This is my latest finished pair of Le Mans race cars from the 2017 race: Chevrolet Corvette C7.R. The scale is 1:20, like in Legoland. This is purely display model without interior, engine or functionality (apart from rolling wheels). There are building instructions here: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/models_car-CorvetteC7R.htm The sticker sheet includes the stickers of the #63 and #64 models. Construction started after the race where I was asked to build this model. Members from my local LUG were helpful in giving me constructive criticism, and the design of the car only took around 3 weeks. As usual I use Griddy for the design document: Here are some shots from the construction process: You can see how I struggled with getting the lines on the sides right: And some times progress was... reversed: The body work below the windows was also a challenge: The rear end has mostly undergone refinements rather than complete redesigns: And the same can be said for the front: As you can see, I'm using both sides to experiment with various ideas: Also the roof has received many reconstructions. The transition between the windscreen and roof was difficult to get right: See how the windscreen is flush with the side windows, but not the roof here: Finally the car was finished and I added some simple paper-based stickers: I'm quite pleased with how the it was possible to build in this angular fashion and still end up with a easily recognizable result. Next up on my "2017 Le Mans GTE PRO" grid recreation will be either the Porsche, Ferrari, or Aston Martin. LEGO911 has already made a very nice Ford in this scale, so I will focus on those other models first... and of course the impossible TS050!
  10. DarthTwoShedsJackson

    [MOC] Argus III: CR90 Corvette

    Since TheNerdyOne_ posted his first ships for his Rebel Fleet, I was inspired to build some capital rebel ships myself. The CR90 (a.k.a. Corellian Corvette or Blockade Runner) is propably my favorite rebel capital ship - its fast and pretty maneuverable for its size, heavily armed, easy to reconfigure for different tasks, and most importantly of all, it has interesting shapes as a model and a nice contrast between its elegant long shape and the massive engine array on the back. I initially started by building TheNerdyOne_'s Corvette according to his LDD files, but I quickly realized that this model could not be built with bricks without the application of glue. So, while his model still remained my inspiration, I set out to do what's most fun with LEGO: Come up with my very own build. The model is roughly the scale of TheNerdyOne_'s Corvette - it's slightly bigger - and built very differently to his model, so that I can now with confidence call it a MOC of my own. The core consists of alternating layers of bricks and two plates stacked in multiples with a footprint of 2x3 and 2x5 studs, with modified studs (one stud on the side) running along the middle. 1xX plates are connected to the studs that run along the sides of the core structure in the middle and make for a super-sturdy base with studs on the front, sides, and optionally on top and bottom where needed. Both the engine array and the display stand are connected deep into or with the core, which results in one of the most sturdy models I have ever build. The ship I built I have christened 'ARGUS III'. It's a ship attached to Phoenix Squadron which has been outfitted with a very powerful sensor array and the capability to mask its signature to some extend. The ARGUS III has been used on several occasions by FULCRUM (Ahsoka Tano) to spy on imperial facilities and intercept secret imperial transmissions - lastly near Mustafar. I hope you like the model, and I hope @TheNerdyOne_ likes it, too - your fleet is the inspiration for my own fleet, which will hopefully join the ARGUS III in time.
  11. One of my favourite recent Star Wars ship designs has to be the Carrion Spike which appeared in some of the Marvel comics: unlike a lot of the rusty ships bits of junk that are iconic to star wars, the ship has a very streamlined narrow spear like shape. Since I was such a fan of this design, I decided to build a model using the Carrion Spike as inspiration for SHIPtember. As I'm sure most of you've realised SHIPtember has come and gone and it's been almost half a year since the deadline so why the holdup? I'd love to say that I'd been slaving away improving the model but in truth I just never got around to posting it. So here it (finally) is, the Nomad's Spear. The Nomad's Spear was a ship in service to the New Republic shortly after The Battle Of Endor, one of a line of ships which were designed based on stolen Imperial blueprints to create a cloaked and exceptionally lightweight and speedy corvette, which, thanks to it's highly powered engines, could quickly sneak through Imperial blockades undetected to deliver aid until these planets could be liberated. As a result of its stealth abilities and the peaceful nature of its normal missions, the ship lacked any sort of offensive firepower. Furthermore, a lack of particularly bulky shields meant the ship saw limited service outside of delivering supplies. Following the Battle of Jakku and the widespread collapse of any remaining Imperial holdouts, the mercy missions the corvettes were tasked with became increasingly infrequent and these rare few ships became increasingly uncommon. Most found themselves deconstructed or left in hangars but the Nomad's Spear was redrafted into supporting New Republic fleets. Technicians and mechanics removed armour from the already vulnerable cockpit area and the plating in front of the engines to get better access to the ship's systems. This allowed them to fine tune the craft and increase shield output, helping the ship survive many missions over its 10 year service to the New Republic before new models made the ship obsolete. Hope you enjoyed that little backstory I quickly came up with. Sadly since this these pictures have been sat on my computer for ages, I can't really get anymore images of this MOC but since I had to make the spine of the structure sturdy there wasn't really any interior to see.
  12. From the designer of fantastic UCS-scaled MOCs comes a Hammerhead Corvette. The MOC contains 3,606 pieces in total, and measures 35 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 14 inches tall. Take down Imperial Star Destroyers with a UCS-scaled Hammerhead Corvette from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. Despite the fact that the scale of this model is unknown, the model itself does not disappoint in terms of both accuracy and detail. There is an instructions bundle available for this MOC which includes a 480 page pdf instruction manual, a parts list, and LDD files. All we ask is an exchange of 35 U.S Dollars ($35) for the entire bundle. For more details about purchasing the bundle, please either PM me or contact me at chrdvorak@hotmail.com via email. As for sticker, The manual includes a plate to where the sticker will go, but until more information is learned about the Hammerhead, a sticker will not officially be released. Here are some images from the manual that show the design and completed model: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUfjEMD Parts list: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7593/cjd_223/dmarkngs-hammerhead-corvette/ Please use this topic to discuss anything about the MOC including the building process, questions, part substitutions, etc.
  13. TmoneyTechnic

    Corvette C7 ZR1 MOC

    Hey Guys I am new to Eurobricks, but here is my first MOC that I have posted to the forum. It is a Corvette C7 ZR1 with a body made out of system bricks and a Technic chassis. The car has steering, a functioning small-cylinder model V8, and opening doors. However, there is no suspension or interior. I have plans to make the car RC, but that will be quite the challenge. You can check out the video below.
  14. I have built a C7 Z06 fully customized to street racing spec. Please leave any comments that you want. Thanks @StangMan302
  15. "Emile, where are we going?" Elise asked. "Just keep your eyes closed, we're almos there, promise," Emile replied. Careful," Jean said as he helped Elise into the boat. "Bit of a drop." "We're not going fishing are we?" Elise asked, slight annoyance in her voice. "No, nothing of the sort, dear," Emile returned as he stepped into the boat. As Jean cast off and rowed, Emile ignored Elise's questions for a few more moments. Then, he said, "Open them now." Elise gazed in awe at the corvette. "Emile, this is yours?" "The Elise," he said. "Named for you." As they pulled alogn the starboard side, Emile started telling Elise about the ship. "18 guns in total. The figurehead was designed to resemble you. Enough room for the old crew and some new ones to keep her afloat." "Ropes so no one falls in high seas or battle," Emile continued. "Or for William when he drinks too much?" Elise questioned. "Yes, but don't tell him that," the captain confirmed in a whisper. "Anyway as you can see some of the new crew have already come aboard." "Welcome back, Captain," Rene said as he helped pull Emile and Elise up on the deck. "Gilbert is ready to go, it seems." "Way up there is Henri for the rigging, as is his job. Also one of the new crewmen is there, positioned perfectly for taking out targets when we board." "Don't mention that," Elise said. "Of course." "Shall we see how she fares?" Emil asked. "Yes." Some background on the ship and building. First I want to say thanks to @Sebeus I as I studied his Beatrix for the hull, and various other things, changing them to my own taste. Also a big thanks to @Kolonialbeamter and @Bodi for their feedback as I was designing, specifically on the stern. That was the hardest part (as always). I also took some inspiration from The Walrus from STARZ' show Black Sails for the masts and yard arms, as well as the ropes. Those yellow tubes were challenging to flex and do in LDD, but I think they look fine. I'm actually really pleased with how this came out, and I'm kind of amazed how far I have come in designing ships from a few years ago, which were incredibly bulky and square. Thanks for looking, and C&C are welcome!
  16. HighDesertBrikr

    [MOC] Corvette Micro-Scale Spaceship

    Hey fellow Lego fans! It's me HDB, and this time I have a spaceship tutorial. This one is a corvette sized spaceship. If any of you like the vid, then drop a comment down below. Thanks for watching! HDB out!
  17. Evilkirk

    [MOC] The Nubian Nightmare

    Darth Vader's very own corvette, custom designed and used during the Great Jedi Purge whilst hunting down the last Jedi stragglers around the galaxy. For such missions, a more subtle entrance is sometimes required into some planetary systems, rather than arriving with a fleet of star destroyers. The ship features an integrated shuttle attached to the top of the main hold (accessed by a functional lift) and the main craft carries a small selection of compact repulsorlift vehicles custom built for lord Vader's private ship. The rear of the corvette is accessed by a central corridor and is comprised of 3 floors, with the engineering room at the bottom, secondary/storage hold above and then the command deck on top. On land, the main hold can fully open to function as a mobile mission outpost if required. It is said that Lord Vader claims that the unusual name for the ship is because of it's Nubian drive engines and the aggressive angular design of the ship is nightmarish compared to the sleek flowing designs that Nubian ship builders are famed for - although there are whispered rumours that it is secretly named in memory of a lady who favoured Nubian ships and that Lord Vader may have had some kind of nightmares about this mysterious lady... Full gallery on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/evilkirk/albums/72157677518066832/with/31705233813/
  18. Hello everyone, This is my new creation, a copy of 1970's Chevrolet Corvette. It is a medium scale model driven by two L motors, steered by a Servo motor, and wearing 56mm tires. Weight is 1060g. Thanks to using 24t clutch gears, it smoothly accelerates and stops. Suspension travel is short and ground clearance is about one stud or so. But it is enough for driving on tarmac. Features, Four-wheel independent suspension. Working retractable headlights and tail lights. Openable hood, doors and 'trunk' (for access to 8878 rechargeable battery). Removable targa top. Video: Building instructions and more pictures:https://plus.google....64977943/albums I added this MOC to Rebrickable. I hope you will like and build it!
  19. Hello, i'm Searching who can build a Rebels Hammerhead Corvette. http://vignette4.wik...=20160121200715 http://img.lum.dolim...on=0,0,1560,780 http://img.lum.dolim...on=0,0,1280,762 http://vignette3.wik...=20160115202745 A MOC Comparable to the UCS Set 10019, or Veynom's MOC http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=87222. Or Comparable to TheNerdyOne_ MOC http://www.eurobrick...pic=120314&st=0 (This two are amazing and incredible jobs). Im reffering in a detailed-minifig scale. Maybe I can Build one, but I Don't Believe I't can Be so Good. This will be a Contest. Good Luck. Thanks.
  20. Here is my ultimate version of the CR90 Corvette Tantive IV. It had been a while that I wanted to modify the old 10019 Tantive IV in order to improve it seriously. When the 10198 set was released, I jumped on it but was also disappointed by several aspect of the model. So let’s review the pros and cons of each set. 10019 Rebel Blockade Runner (2001 - 1747 pieces): Pro - Its size, it is massive; - Its shape, it is recognizable and elegant Cons - No playability, no space for minifig; - Worst stickers ever (mine peeled); - Some details and construction technics are obsolete today. And about the 10198 Tantive IV (2009 - 1408 pieces): Pro - No sticker  ; - Somewhat detailed interior; - Nice engine pods; Cons - No landing gear or support; - It is small!!! - The cockpit top metabricks are ugly, particularly the white color does not match with the rest; - Accessing some of the play features was complex (un-mount then open); So in the end, what I wanted to build was: - A large massive CR90 of over 100 studs; - It should have a detailed interior, easy to access without un-mounting 300 parts. - No sticker; - A landing gear that is integrated and that can support the weight of the beast. And here is the result, mostly rebuilt from scratch. Name: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV Length: 102 Studs Weight: 4.4 kg Swooshability: yes Number of SHIPs built: 1 Number of pices: 2500 (estimated) And now the pictures: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr Its nice head: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr So yes she is swooshable ... this picture has not been edited. CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr Some details: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr And even more details from the underside: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr There is a full detailed interior: central command center, operation center, weapon rack, coffee corner, corridors, gate with republic logo... CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr And this Corvette has something in her head: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr Another section of the ship that can be opened, revealing a well-known story. CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr Tw2 minutes of inattention and guess who comes for a little harlmen shake? CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr The full interior: 5 compartments are available and playable. CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr All pictures on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/veynom/sets/72157636045925846/with/10015684763/
  21. EDIT: Full Pics and Write-up now included. Most Kawashita fleets are furnished with a complement of Starjackers, a specialized light corvette that masquerades as a two-seat cargo barge and acts as a skirmisher unit in sustained engagements. In the ancient days of Earth's naval engagement, this type of ship was known as a Q-ship. The Starjacker's role, as its name may imply, is to use subterfuge to close in with enemy vessels, using the element of surprise to quickly overwhelm ship defenses and deploy small, heavily armed squads of marines for boarding actions. Though seeming like your average pair of rocket jockeys to any scans or ID requests, the Starjackers are actually piloted by veteran bomber aces, used to flying close to large enemy vessels with sophisticated point-defense systems. The second seat belongs to the gunner officer, whose job it is to oversee and deploy the weapons and specialized systems on the ship. The canopy is fighter-style, allowing the flight crew to quickly emerge from the ship if necessary: Here, on the portside of the Starjacker, the mock cargo pods, in this case rigged to resemble fuel canisters, are clearly visible: And here, starboard side, the smooth flank of the ship. Though visible to the eye as standard ant-meteorite armor for a ship this size, the starboard armor is reinforced beneath the visible layer: The visible armor is openly painted in Kawashita Group colors and, typical of our illustrious corporation, hides a handy secret: The "broadside" cannons allow the Starjacker to sidle up to enemy craft on the starboard side, rapidly deploying the cannons and opening fire to disable defenses and punch a hole in targeted ships for the second phase of the strike. Beneath the cannon mounts are layers of additional armor to protect the normally vulnerable section of the ship. The expected compartments of the starboard side will show up on holoscans, but aren't actually present in the ship. It's all armor with very limited additional space, even for a corvette. The rear of this Starjacker features a faux-refueler. The large and complex engine of the Starjacker includes articulated fins that allow rotational, omnidirectional thrust to provide the quick turning necessary for the ship to complete it's strike package without being caught in a slow turn. The engine's housing is also heavily armored, a feature that has been unconvincingly disguised as oversized heatsink coils: Here we see the mounts for the "fuel canisters", which are meant to be hot-swapped between runs just as expected. This feature is modular, allowing a Starjacker to be disguised as other types of corvette or light frigate as needed: In a galaxy far, far away, these canisters resemble escape pods. This is not too far from the mark, as the interior of the canisters are cramped, filled with limited air supplies, and probably incredibly uncomfortable. Kawashita marines don't complain, however. That sour look on Sgt. Galbraith is just his war face. The full complement of Starjacker marines is usually a fireteam of four. These units are specially trained to quickly breach and clear a ship's vulnerable decks. Their hardsuits are equipped with limited EVA capability, allowing them to fight in Zero G if their ship is able to disable artificial gravity in enemy craft: Additional detail shots of the Starjacker's underbelly with retracted landing gear and the sensor-package at the ship's front: Thanks for looking! C&C Welcome!
  22. Sebeus I

    Beatrix

    163D Almost two months ago I started building a new battleship, a French corvette I named Beatrix. I recorded the building proces in a WIP thread. And now I finally decided to post it. My sister photoshopped a background in some images for me. Also I'm happy to announce that this is my first ship of which I provide digital building instructions! (see below) Sailing to the end of the world...Wait I think I can see the end . The Beatrix is a 20-gun corvette, a fully rigged ship with 4 courses of sails on the main- and foremast. So basically it's another one on the massive pile of frigates in the index . The hull is a white prefab one (from the Friends cruiser) compromised out of a complete bow, 5 midsections and a partially costum built stern. The cabin has working lights implemented in candles (more of that below) and the capstan can be used to haul up both port and starboard anchors simultaneously. I didn't bother to show off that last feature as systems like that became a standard on my ships (see a video in this thread). The upper decks detach from the ship to reveal the interior. However, as many ship builders know it's not evident to combine an accessible interior with the tumblehome shape of a ship and its rigging. You may notice that most of the interior pictures were taken before the ship was rigged. Interesting fact, this ship was named after one of my aunts, just like my previous one (Christine) was named after my mother, they are sisters, sister-ships . I think the stern is my favourite part of the ship. Yes, I'm definitely happy with that part. The capstan. The helm. The skylight is really transparant, which is cool when using the light feature. Chasers on the forecastle deck, to capture that fleeing ship... Chasers on the quarter deck, to evade that persuer, atleast if there is a ship fast enough to keep up with the beatrix and forming a threat . Some interior pictures. costum guns (smaller ones) woulc be more appropriate I think though. I intentionally kept the ship low but that also resulted in the ship having no hold, apart from a small 8x8 storage that is not even two bricks deep. The one and only staircase . Wait for it... Bazinga! And then there was light, a feature I copied from my old frigate Farore's Wind (though it was better imlemented on that ship). I now realize the cabin does look a bit unfinished . Beware when you see this through your monocular... More pictures in my brickshelf gallery (once public). And a comic about her maiden voyage, incase you're in for some silliness . So what's next? Guilds of the Brick Seas! ...And maybe some more ship building. Perhaps it's time to get this old dusty thing from the shelf and give it another try. While building the Beatrix I had to strip parts from my old frigate Farore's WInd, perhaps I restore her to a new battleship... Although I really should dump the prefabs for now, it's time for some serious costum hull ships . Building Instructions available for download here. (right click, 'save as')
  23. timslegos

    [WIP] C4 Corvette

    Hello Eurobricks! I dont usually start WIP threads but given that I am venturing into unknown realms, I decided I could definitely use the help of the Eurobricks Community. As the title states, I am building a 1/8th scale fourth generation corvette. This is likely my last project before I go off to college and my "dark ages", so I would like to end with a bang. I have always loved the corvette line and ever since I started driving one I knew I would like to build a replica. To start I have a rough version of the frame. Using a blueprint I found, I constructed the frame to the correct scale. I think I will construct the frame out of studded pieces for maximum rigidity, still haven't decided about the body though. While developing the frame I have also been working on the rear axle. The original car has 5 link suspension in the rear, with both a regular spring and a leaf spring. In this photo you can see my progress. The wheel has slight camber in it to counteract the slight flex when the suspension is compressed. The leaf spring will be attached to the blue connector. Finally I have been determining the propulsion system. I know I would like have a 4 speed gearbox along with pf drive and steering. While thinking about solutions I came up with this idea. By coupling both a pf m motor and a buggy motor, I think it would combine the best of both motors; high speed as well as torque. The black gear coming off the differential would go directly into the gearbox after passing through a flywheel. Theoretically it would seem like it would work to me, though I dont actually know if it will or not. For all the experts out there, will this solution actually work? Thank you for taking the time to read my post and help me out! More progress will follow. tim
  24. Back when I started seriously getting into building some 15 years ago there was a guy named Jonathan Stephenson who had designed some really awesome Technic cars... Of course this was before everything had gone full studless... I know that many people here have probably never seen these models, so I would like to share them as they are amazingly well done... I don't know if he still builds or not as I haven't seen anything since these cars from 2000.. IMO they still hold up even with today's new full wave of parts... Corvette Mustang
  25. Gwail

    MOC - friendly Corvette 1957

    Let Andrea take you today for the little time trip to the classic era, back in America! There are some excellent Vettes' models, but I havent noticed this specific one in this scale - 6-wide Chevrolet Corvette 1957 convertible. This is the first non heavy duty car of my collection, due to the wheels mounting and fragile parts of body, sticked by one stud, like rear fenders. It was tricky to make the openable doors and maintain the thin gap between doors and rear wheels, but the final effect is satisfatory to me. Thanks to Aurie from Chrome Block City the car shines like a christmas tree, but it gives the required look, I think ;). My personal favourite. Of course, there are still some disadvantages: Yellow 1x2 panels with the "foot holder" instead of white ones - quite rare in my country, on BL wanted list, obviously. Central part of front bumpers - the red 2x1 plates with arms up are temporary, I'd like to take a try with the chrome knives in 1x1 horizontal clips, but still failed to hunt them down (there are so many single parts available in separate stores, can't afford to buy them all :)). Wheels! Both look (I don't have experience with custom wheels, I have to take some lessons from the master ER0L ;)) and mounting - sticking via 1x1 round plate to the half-pin isn't too effective, I will have to research the possibility of using bars 3L / wheels on full pin. Rear lights? Whooops... But hell, who needs them, the chrome exhausts look much better ;). More shots on my flick page. My previous presentations: