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Found 38 results

  1. Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.
  2. _TLG_

    [MOC] A-Team Corvette

    Hello Corvette, A-Team and Speed Champions fans, the Chevrolet Corvette C4, colloquially known as the 'Vette, is a two-door, two-passenger sports car manufactured and marketed by Chevrolet across more than 60 years of production and eight design generations. The fourth-generation was the first complete redesign of the Corvette since 1963 and it is known for its sleek look. It was produced from 1983 to 1996. This color scheme of this model is based Faceman's 1984 Corvette from "The A-Team" which is an American action-adventure television series that ran on NBC from January 1983 to March 1987 about former members of a fictitious United States Army Special Forces unit. Building instructions are available on the following links: It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer to minimize the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore this model include only two vehicle registration plate stickers. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic color scheme with the red and black stripes on the sides, the glass hatchback, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - A-Team, Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr
  3. This is my final update, the ship is complete and ready to set sailt. There are some minor corrections I am going to make to the build further down the line, but those shouldn't be noticable. This is going to be my entry for the contest, a remake of the classic Skulls Eye Schooner. Sporting 4 cannons, three masts and striped black sails, the Skulls Eye Schooner outgunned and outclassed the Black Seas Barracuda. The dashing colorscheme strikes fear into the hearts of merchants and soldiers alike! A remake of this beloved classic seems almoust sacrilegious, though I never owened it myself and don't want to start a collection of vintage sets. Therefore, a remake has been in the back of my mind for quite some time. The name of the ship is rather inacurate, not beeing a schooner at all. Nevertheless, I decided to keep its original sailplan with its square-rigged fore- and mainmast and a lateen sail at the mizzen. The original set is typically stylized, with its high fore- and aftercastel and a low waist. I interpreted my version as an early 18th century corvette type vessel (e.g. ) with an open gundeck like the original. I used a slightly updated version of the hull construction I developed for my bluecoat sloop and elongated it a bit. I changed the original colorscheme to some degrees, i replaced the brown hull with dark tan (out of necessity, due to the parts not beeing available in reddish brown) and the red accents with dark red. The green gunports were a bit to much for my taste, so I changed them to black (also because the only set to ever feature the green flag pieces was the original and because I don't own it and don't want to pay the prices for those pieces). The build has 1800 - 1900 parts, wich doesn't seem to much out of proportion for a Lego-Set (Considering that the original Eldorado Fortress had <500 parts and the remake has >2500). I don't have the energy left to edit some kind of box art, but I have made some sails (still wip, I'm gonna digitalize them to correct the designs, but the dimensions are fitting). IMG_0070 IMG_0072 Here are some details of the set: A hidden treasure on the island IMG_0074 The open gundeck, the cannons can be run out or pulled back to close the gunports IMG_0075 Storage compartments IMG_0077 The captains cabin IMG_0078 And finally some hidden gold onboard IMG_0081 Thank you all for your suggestions and may the tides be with ye.
  4. Ten years after building a first version of an UCS-like Tantive IV, inspired by official sets 10019 and 10198, I have decided that it was about time to provide some lifting to my MOC. Believe me, coming back to an old MOC is a challenge. Over 10 years, many new parts have been released, many new build techniques were introduced and if means what can be seen as a simple re-lifting may become a total rebuild. Anyway, without additional blabla, here is the result: Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr And you may compare it with my previous edition from 2013: CR90 Corvette Tantive IV by Veynom, on Flickr Just as the previous version, it can be opened to reveal a detailed interior: Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr Instead of letting you spot the 7 differences (and there are more than 7), I will review the main changes brought to the model. The first one is about the color scheme. The old dark gray and red have been replaced by DBG and dark red everywhere. The model is also globally whiter than the 2013 version. The second global change is a massive move from studfull to almost studless, only keeping studs were it could provide greebling advantageously. And now, let's start to zoom on some sections, starting with the rear engine section. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr It is 6-stud wider than the original, with extra space added between each engine pod in order to add some extra details. Just making it wider implied a full rebuild from scratch. Many, many details were added everywhere to closely match the original model. The engines are a bit longer and the exhaust part was revisited to provide a nicer visual effect. Just detailling the exhausts added more than 400 extra parts to te model. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr With the radar section, I made structural strengthening, extra details on the lateral pods with smoother ending, detailed inside, brick-build white wings, and a brick-build radar. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr The roof section was also rebuild from scratch. Details were added to all panels for visual improvement and also to ensure minimal holes between angled panels. Then we have the head... Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr I cut the head just after the central section and rebuilt it completely. As the original shape is somewhere halfway between a hammerhead and a double truncated cone, just reproducing it is already a challenge. If you further want it hollow in order to add a detailed cockpit then it becomes a very interesting challenge. The solution I used is maybe not the most esteatic one when looking at it closely but it does the job when moving a bit away from the ship and it allows to put 4 sitting minifigs and some walking ones in the central corridor. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr It was really not easy to capture the curves, the outside details and still proposing an easy way to open it. Yet, the result is quite strong with enough details inside. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr And there is a corridor allowing us to guess about some well know scenery from ANH. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr And now the main room. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr With Darth Vader, always elevating people around him with his typical sense of Imperial justice. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr My lateral pods are still present, each with a small vignette inside and more details or better smoothing. Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr Tantive IV - 2023 Edition by Veynom, on Flickr A few more pictures from the build: Tantive IV uplifting WIP by Veynom, on Flickr Tantive IV uplifting WIP by Veynom, on Flickr TantiveIV uplifting WIP by Veynom, on Flickr A friend of mine told me the radar metabrick was not up to the level of the MOC. So I built a new one ... the result if indeed much more appealing and aligned with the original model. TantiveIV uplifting final WIP by Veynom, on Flickr A color swap which truely improve the visual impact: replacing the LBG engines (wheels) by dark pearl gray ones. Tantive IV uplifting Engine colors by Veynom, on Flickr Now, there is still a major disadvantage to this re-lifting. The beast weights now 25% more than before, increasing from 4.4 to 5.5 kg. Heavy MOC, I tell you. The length remained identically (that was a surprise to me). I've no clue if I will change it again in 10 years, maybe it will switch to a blue color-scheme...
  5. Hello friends, I'm happy to share my neweset creation and first alternate model in 2022. This Chevrolet Corvette C2 Sting Ray Coupe is an alternate build from the official set 42127 Batman Batmobile. With 1227 parts, this model uses more than 90% of the parts from the Batmobile. No other parts or spare parts are required to build this Corvette alternate model. If you own the set 42127, you can completely build this model without any restriction. Visit rebrickable for more content and building instructions. Features & Functions 1:11 scale HoG steering V8 piston engine very detailed interior openable doors on both sides realistic openable hood to reveal engine pop-up headlights controlled by lever automatic lighting of engine through openable hood lighting in the back to simulate brake light/underground light Impressions Headlights & Lighting The iconic pop-up headlights are replicated in this model and controlled by a lever inside the armature, which is easily accessible by fingers through the windshield and doors. By opening the hood, a light is triggered automatically at the highest point to lit up the engine. The light in the rear can be activated with a lever beside the HoG steering to simulate brake light or underground light. Interesting to know The Corvette C2 as the second generation was manufactured from 1962 to 1967. With this model realeased in 2022, you can celebrate the end of production 55 years ago. Only in 1963, the Corvette Coupe was manufactured with splitted rear window and nowadays this Corvette C2 Sting Ray "Split-Window" is very rare and popular. The name Sting Ray is common for the second generation, where the name Stingray was used since the successor Corvette C3. Instructions The premium PDF instructions of this Corvette Sting Ray comes with 237 pages of high quality images and building steps for a satisfying building experience. Following are some example pages of the instructions: Follow this link to get instructions. The real car manufactured in 1963 Have fun with this replica of Corvette C2 Sting Ray alternate build.
  6. Hello Big Lebowski, Corvette and Speed Champions fans, do you remember the hilarious The Big Lebowski scene? Walter Sobchak (Dude's best friend) destroys a brand new, red Chevrolet Corvette C4 (1985) with a crowbar. This car, colloquially known as the 'Vette, is a two-door, two-passenger sports car manufactured and marketed by Chevrolet across more than 60 years of production and eight design generations. The fourth-generation was the first complete redesign of the Corvette since 1963 and it is known for its sleek look. It was produced from 1983 to 1996. An other inspiration came from one of my favorite Matchbox as a child, and that color scheme will be built soon too :). This car could be a nice addition to the set 76903 "Chevrolet Corvette C8.R Race Car and 1968 Chevrolet Corvette". A-Team color scheme is possible too :). Building instructions are available on the following links: It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer to minimize the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore this model include only one standard Lego sticker. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the pop-up headlights (the model can be built either with opened or closed headlights), the black stripes on the sides, the gray bottom part, the glass hatchback, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. (The Walter Sobchak minifigure has a custom torso and head, similar ones are available in some webshops. Its other body parts and the crowbar are standard parts.) Corvette C4 - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 07 by László Torma, on Flickr
  7. Hello Corvette and Speed Champions fans, the Chevrolet Corvette C4 car, colloquially known as the 'Vette, is a two-door, two-passenger sports car manufactured and marketed by Chevrolet across more than 60 years of production and eight design generations. The fourth-generation was the first complete redesign of the Corvette since 1963 and it is known for its sleek look. It was produced from 1983 to 1996. The model was inspired by one of my favorite Matchbox as a child, the color scheme was inspired by cyberpunk and destopian movies. Building instructions are available on the following links: It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer to minimize the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore this model include only one standard Lego vehicle registration plate sticker. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the hood decoration, the gray bottom part, the glass hatchback, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr
  8. Hello everyone, in this post I want to tell you about my motorization project I completed about 2 years ago. The set 42093 brings the wheels to the technic community. I always wanted to build an RC car with lego bricks but I had no experience neither in bodywork nor in building RC chassis, so this project was my second "successful" attempt. Technical specs: 1 steering with Servo-motor 2 propulsion with 2 L-motors 3 powered by Buwizz 2.0 I also made some improvements in bodywork. Enjoy the build! As you can see, I improved the roof by making a higher A-pillars and adding grey arches on the sides. A full gallery is available by the link:
  9. Hi everyone! I have been building up to tackling a 'Blockade Runner' CR90 Corvette for over a year, MOCs this size are definitely not my strong point so my thanks go to community members Bruxxy and MasterBrickSeparator for their help. First things first, here's a render of both the Tantive IV and Liberator colour schemes, there are more on my Flickr page and should any of you be interested the instructions for both colour schemes are available on Rebrickable. I can hear a lot of you screaming at your screens "Its not micro!" and I admit you're probably right, the build is 59cm long and weighs 1.6kg which is similar to the Tantive IV set 75244 from 2019. It is however the same scale (1:250) as the rest of my little fleet of ships so I feel like I couldn't not slip micro into the title. I've tried my best to make the exterior as accurate as possible, I began by dividing and measuring the obvious sections and designing them seperately in Studio, then connecting them to a Technic frame. I started with the cockpit and worked backwards, although I nearly gave up there as getting the shape right whilst leaving space for an bridge was a nightmare, the modular nature of the ship made building the rest much easier though. The central fins also proved difficult, they are the most fragile part of the ship and can be easily knocked out of position, but very luckily they fit around the cylindrical core well enough to look pretty accurate. The fins also make the ship harder to pick up, two hands are required to lift the ship off a surface until you can hold the stand in one hand. I'll keep working on his aspect in case a stronger solution is possible, I would really love it if I could make the ship one-handedly swooshable. Fininishing with the engines I came across a new challenge, how to build the 11 thrusters with enough detail but not so much that they would cost a fortune in small pieces. The structural frame is very strong, its probably overengineered but I'm pleased with how solid the build feels as the strength was a complete unknown to me whilst designing in Studio. Best of all the frame allows for a tiny interior, sadly its not 1:250 scale (Lego pieces only go so small!) but it does give the MOC some extra playability and character. The roof can be removed in two sections to expose the cockpit, the upper deck and top gunner position, a central corridor running the length of the ship and the docking areas near the rear side pods. The upper deck can also be removed to reveal the main deck's conference room, side engineering corridors and micro escape pods, which are also all removable. At the end of the project I especially enjoyed adding a little 4-stud tall crew, each little stack of round plates is probably unreconisable individually but I think that when they're seen together with the ship they really come to life! Whilst putting together the instructions for both colours I decided that I wanted to build the Liberator from Star Wars Rebels. I've been rewatching the show and I have to admit that after seeing the ship in action repeatedly in season 2 I feel that its far more exciting than the Tantive IV! I'd love to take more photos of the Liberator with my other micro ships but at the moment I don't have the equipment, skill or enough micro A-Wings to do a decent job, but I'm working on it. Here's a few photos showing the Liberator along with my micro Ghost and X-Wing, plus the interior. You can see more in my Flickr album. I've tried to balance detail and cost, so apart from a few rare colours for the Rebels crew the 1900ish parts are all common and each of the ship colour schemes will cost roughly £/€/$150 to build. I know that the Blockade Runner has been recreated in Lego many times, both by Lego themselves and the community, but I've tried to make something with a few unique features that is hopefully a worthwhile addition to the roster. Thanks for taking the time to look :)
  10. Anders T

    [MOC] HMS Surprise

    Just browsed through the forum and could not find this anywhere. Think I just forgot to share it. Mentioned her some time ago in the General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread. If she is hiding somewhere in the forum, I do hope someone has the chops to remove this topic. Scale 1:40’ish L: 150 cm B: 26 cm H: 114 Bricks approx. 19300. Looking back at my earlier designs I found that my version of the HMS Surprise, just like the HMS Ontario, was somewhat wanting. This is a model of the HMS Surprise launched as the corvette Unité in 1794. In 1796, The Royal Navy conquered, refitted and renamed her. She later on chased pirates in the Caribbean for several years. The ship plays a central role in the Aubery-Maturin stories. This includes the movie from 2003 Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World. The HMS Rose, which was later, renamed HMS Surprise, plays the “role” as HMS Surprise. Neat, but somewhat confusing. Being notoriously bad at taking photos of my creations there is some Renders below, these are also in the General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread. …but you need to look at the LDD file to get a view of the details of the creation. Find it at MOCPAGES She has been on display at LW Copenhagen 2019. A Swedish AFOL has taken some fine Pictures from the event on this link. Hope it is ok that I link to this There are also some more photos including WIP at my Flickr page.
  11. From the designer of fantastic UCS-scaled MOCs comes a Hammerhead Corvette. The MOC contains 3,606 pieces in total, and measures 35 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 14 inches tall. Take down Imperial Star Destroyers with a UCS-scaled Hammerhead Corvette from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. Despite the fact that the scale of this model is unknown, the model itself does not disappoint in terms of both accuracy and detail. There is an instructions bundle available for this MOC which includes a 480 page pdf instruction manual, a parts list, and LDD files. All we ask is an exchange of 35 U.S Dollars ($35) for the entire bundle. For more details about purchasing the bundle, please either PM me or contact me at via email. As for sticker, The manual includes a plate to where the sticker will go, but until more information is learned about the Hammerhead, a sticker will not officially be released. Here are some images from the manual that show the design and completed model: Parts list: Please use this topic to discuss anything about the MOC including the building process, questions, part substitutions, etc.
  12. This is my latest finished pair of Le Mans race cars from the 2017 race: Chevrolet Corvette C7.R. The scale is 1:20, like in Legoland. This is purely display model without interior, engine or functionality (apart from rolling wheels). There are building instructions here: The sticker sheet includes the stickers of the #63 and #64 models. Construction started after the race where I was asked to build this model. Members from my local LUG were helpful in giving me constructive criticism, and the design of the car only took around 3 weeks. As usual I use Griddy for the design document: Here are some shots from the construction process: You can see how I struggled with getting the lines on the sides right: And some times progress was... reversed: The body work below the windows was also a challenge: The rear end has mostly undergone refinements rather than complete redesigns: And the same can be said for the front: As you can see, I'm using both sides to experiment with various ideas: Also the roof has received many reconstructions. The transition between the windscreen and roof was difficult to get right: See how the windscreen is flush with the side windows, but not the roof here: Finally the car was finished and I added some simple paper-based stickers: I'm quite pleased with how the it was possible to build in this angular fashion and still end up with a easily recognizable result. Next up on my "2017 Le Mans GTE PRO" grid recreation will be either the Porsche, Ferrari, or Aston Martin. LEGO911 has already made a very nice Ford in this scale, so I will focus on those other models first... and of course the impossible TS050!
  13. I'm designing an RC technic car (C8 Corvette) in that I want to race against some other people. How many L-motors will I need to get the car up to a reasonable speed? (I'd like it to go around 5-10 mph, basically anything faster than a slow crawl). I have 2 L-motors built into the car right now, but I have a feeling they won't be powerful enough. I'm planning on using a BuWizz battery pack for power and bluetooth control. The car has around 1200 parts, so it probably weighs 3 pounds or so. I built a four speed sequential transmission into the car as well. For a car of this weight, should I use 4 L-motors?
  14. Hi guys. First time posting here and I thought I'd share some of the modifications I've done to set 42093. Now I realize that I'm late to this party. This set has been out since late 2018/early 2019 and most people have probably already made up their mind on it, modded it, left it as it is or scrapped it for parts. However I figured that as long as it had potential it would be a pity to just leave it as it is and perhaps someone else may find these modifications useful. This is going to be a rather lengthy post with plenty of details and pictures so grab a good drink, sit back, relax and enjoy. Let's start with a bit of intro. Prior to this year I was not familiar at all with the Lego range when it comes to vehicles (both System & Technic). As a car enthusiast I had plenty of mostly die-cast models of various sizes and I was always looking for that one cool model to add to the collection, but didn't think that I could find the accuracy or details needed with constructions made out of the little bricks. One day however I stumbled across a LEGO store on a lunch break and decided to go in. For some reason set 76897, Speed Champions - Audi Sport Quattro, caught my eye and I bought it. After assembly I really liked it so some days later I bought another set, the Camaro. Then another set and another and another until I saw the Corvette ZR1. It was bigger than what I already had, a Technic set which I wasn't familiar with and it was at a good discount. I also liked Corvettes, started around the time the new C6 was released in mid 2000s and have pretty much liked them ever since. So I got the set, built it and really liked it. Yes, it was indeed a bit rough with details, but overall a good effort and a great starting point with Technic. Not too small, not too big. Seeing as how I also liked the B model and wanted to improve the A as well I got another set, built both and made some modifications using some other sets I bought since. Right now my method of going about this is to have the larger sets with proper licensed cars and enhance them with parts from the smaller sets. I'm interested in adding structural strength, not having any parts that are either very stressed or at risk of easily falling off, not having any weird connections or parts that can effortlessly move out of alignment and generally adding detail where needed. With this mindset I got about modifying the Corvette and also building and modifying the Hot Rod. So let's begin. Here they are together, bad boys for life. Right off the bat you may notice that the Corvette's front is a bit different and the Hot Rod's front is plenty different from the original. For the next section we'll continue with the Corvette and then move on to the Hot Rod. CORVETTE ZR1 Here it is, pictured below next to its box. What I wanted to achieve with my modifications was fill in the details and also make it more robust if possible. The core structure has been mostly left unchanged with the exception of the rearward area to make room for wider tires. I'll detail that portion when we get to it. Right now we'll start at the front. Some of the first changes I'd like to point out here are: - extended the front lower spoiler by one stud outwards and also added more detail for the front area, especially around the headlights; - changed the gray beam with cross axle from just before the "ZR1" sticker with an orange one (rather small change but does make a difference in cohesiveness of colors); -you'll also notice the reverted and lowered rear wing but we'll be discussing that in more detail last. Another look at the front and the improved look. We have three black beams here at the nose. Two 6 Half Beams joined together on top and one 5x1 just below. At the bottom there's another 5x1 beam in orange. To the sides, just where the orange fins end I also added a pair of the black grilled elements used for vents at the rear. They look good as the real small side-fins you find on the actual car. The original 2x1 with one cross pin beams were moved from inwards to the headlights to just above the soft curved axle, to the right and the left of where the hood ends. Their place has been taken by 3x1 orange beams which fit well there and remove the original gaps one could see around the headlights. Here's a picture of the bottom to see how the front spoiler was extended. You may also note, just behind the front steering lower gray connector (Cross Block 3X2 ), an extra 5x3 L black beam. It reinforces the chassis and better connects it to the orange bottom panel as well. If you want your model to bend less this is a mod to consider. It looks so complete with it that I don't understand why it wasn't included from the start. You'll also see the 43.2x22 rear wheels. These you can find in 42103 Dragster if you're only doing the Corvette/Hot Rod or 42072 Whack if you want 4 of them so you can use them for both models. Otherwise I'm sure many of you may already have some around from older sets. In order to fit the wider tires without sticking out or rubbing internally I had to made other modifications, which I'll get to a bit later. Onto the engine bay. You can see the new gray half bushes replacing the yellow ones. Also the 1x1 Beams as cylinder sleeves. They leave plenty of space for the crankshaft to lift the pistons, they stabilize the pistons in their motion, add weight so the pistons more easily come down and they look cool. The crankshaft "cam" order was also changed to better match that of the rear car. So the new order of the cams in order from the front to the rear is: top-left-right-bottom. Originally it was top-left-bottom-right. There are a few other aesthetic changes for the engine. I filled in the gap in the beam right before the first two pistons. I used a frictionless pin, here covered with a little black cap. I also added 4 such blue frictionless pins as engine mounts, you can see a couple of them to the front of the engine. All in all I feel that these modifications make it look more like an actual motor. It's more complete and with more realistic colours. The original interior was rather sparse. Just one black 4x2 L beam with the steering wheel attached at one end. So I added a full two-tone dash with a central indicator (sort of mimics the digital real one) as well as a small central console with a red shift knob and either a beverage in a cup holder or a rotary button. Gray would have maybe been a more realistic color for the knob but I only had the red one readily available and think it works better from an attention grabbing point of view. The whole assembly is mounted to the bottom light gray beam via 2 long red push pins at the sides. I tried to replicate the original interior more, but there was just not enough space, not as it is but with also the two axles for drive and steering there and generally not many mounting points in that area at all. I also had to move the headrest mounting position. The original pieces that connected it to the doors I mounted just behind it to limit its travel. You'll also notice the black 4x2 L beams behind the doors. I used them to move the door one stud forwards. More on this just below, but before we move on I'd like to add that originally I tried to see if I could link the steering wheel with the steering axle. The fact that they would spin in the same direction when turning gave me hope but soon I realized that there was not enough space for a geared assembly and I simply did not have a proper rubber hand readily available at the time. Plus, it would have meant taking apart quite a few parts to put the band around the axle. Still, if someone has the white rubber bands that come with some sets or replacements that would work and is willing to try it out, this might be a worthy mod to investigate to get a working steering well. You could use half bushes to secure the band at both ends or ever some one sided half gears. The side view. You can see that the doors have been pushed forward one stud. This fills in the space in front of them better and moves the vent sticker starting location to a more realistic location, just before the A pillar. The vent sticker is a bit covered at the lower portion, but it's an acceptable compromise. The extension is done by mounting a 4x2 L beam just in front of the rear wheel arch. I only had one extra orange one and not two to do the other side so I opted for black, but I think it looks good and can mimic an actual vent. I also opted for a small 2x1 bream with one cross to tie in the rear wheel arch with the bottom orange 5x3 L beam. This pulls in the area above the wheel and makes it better fill that space. The connection isn't 100% perfect since the arch panel does follow the tilted angle of the rear section, but it's a strong connection and there's minimal stress on the parts. You can also see the lowered and inverted rear wing and the two mirror elements used as C pillars. I did have to "borrow" them from the Hot Rod (don't worry I put something else there in return) but I think it was worth it as they fill in the place rather well. A closer view of the rear area, where the most changes were made. We'll start off easily with a new orange 3x1 beam just between the lowered wing and the roof. Initially there was nothing here. Adding it in fills in the space much better and it's a good mount using the blue pins which are also now holding the wing. More on the wing connection later. We can better observe the orange mirror pieces, acting as C pillars. Now we go to the more significant changes. Moving the entire door one stud forward meant changing almost all connections there. To start with, the orange 3x5 beam to which it's still connected had to move one stud forward. The connection between this beam and the door needed to be preserved due to the straight angle between them, also because this 5x3 beam is the one responsible for the tilt of the entire section so there was no way to connect the door to anything else and still preserve the tilt. The door is connected to the orange L beam via the 2nd, 4th and 5th pin holes with 90 degree black connectors. The top two pin holes are used with regular black pins to hold the black 4x2 L beam. As a consequence of moving the door forward the headrest assembly could not longer be connected to it cleanly. Luckily the move did create enough space so that the headrest assembly could be mounted directly to the chassis via a couple of vertical beams. The original connectors can now be seen at its back, limiting the travel of the horizontal portion. As a note, connecting the headrest assembly to the chassis, rather than the wings does mean it's now vertical and not tilted. It works just as well and maybe even better as it offers the ability to tilt the top portion slightly. A lower view with the wheel removed. You can better see how the door is connected to the orange L beam. At the bottom of the orange L beam is a 3x3 T piece to which the vertical beams for the headrest assembly are mounted. You'll notice that now there are a couple of 3x1 yellow beams for the tilting mechanism, with the second one added at the rear, just behind the red push pin holding the roof fixed. This is a not a required change, but I found that fixing the first yellow beam between the orange L one on one side and the black one leading to the other yellow beam on the other side stabilized it, limited its travel and generally added more robustness. The black beam between the yellow ones can be 6 studs in length but I only had it in 7 studs. It worked better I think as the offset one stud at the front would stop against the headrest vertical beams, limiting an unnecessary forward movement of the whole assembly. All in all this setup works fine. There's no interference with the rest of the parts, acts as a more study mounting platform for the tilting mechanism and also fills in that rear section a bit more. Previously looking at it from one side was greeted with a rather empty space. As a last note here nothing was done to the wheel connector itself. The larger 22 wide wheel (14 initially) fits in well with just a couple of mm sticking out of the wheel arch. The wheel is connected via a 4 stud long black axle with a full bush tucked just inside of the wheel arch. It looks good and to make it fully flush with the wheel arch you'll need to modify the rear assembly around the differential which I'm not sure is worth doing also since it will make returning to the narrower tires more difficult should you ever have the need to swap them back out again. These modifications, initially made to make room for the wider wheels but also to move the doors with the vent sticker further forward to better align the looks with that of the real car did take some time to figure out but I'm very happy with the result. More work is indeed involved taking this section apart and putting it back together but otherwise the parts fit well together and also prop each other up. With these mods there's little risk of damaging the model or having connections come apart when picking it up and playing with it. The rear section. Not many modifications here. Primarily the wing has been inverted to better resemble the rear one and was also lowered by one stud. You can see the connection via the blue pins which also hold in place the 3x1 orange beam mentioned earlier. Additionally you may notice a couple of extra Cross Block 3M beams just above where the exhaust pipes end. This used to be empty space before and I didn't like it much. You may also use the regular 3x1 black beams but those are rarer and the Cross Block works better IMO with the rest of the parts there. In time maybe I can find a solution to have the taillights more closely resemble the real ones and also get rid of the pin holes from the second orange beam from the top. In theory it should be rather easy with two 1x1 and two 4x2 orange System parts (or any combination that would fill that space well), but I don't have those yet. That mostly does it for the Corvette. Apart from the changes I mentioned I also put some more blue pins in a few places to better tie down some parts but that would be a small change all in all. As for general aesthetics I may change a bit here and there but for the most part I'm happy. I think it looks reasonably better than it did originally. All in all about 50 or so extra parts (including connecting pins) had to be used. Most would be optional, but the more significant (extending front spoiler, extending doors, lowering rear wing, more details on the interior) changes would require a minimum of about 25 extra pieces. In this form the model is very sturdy, there are no parts that are at risk of easily coming off and there's only minimal extra stress on maybe a couple of parts. The takeaway here is that making room for the wider tires and extending the door proved to be rather difficult. Considering the size and the limited space there, not to mention the fact that most connections would not be traditionally possible due to the tilting of the rear portion I say the original design was pretty good. It did capture the aspect well and there were no obvious ways to dramatically improve it with the set part count. If only this would have a been a straight 600 piece set from the start I'm sure some of these changes would have been included from the start and the reception to the set would have been better initially. HOT ROD Now onto the Hot Rod. The original design was pretty good but a bit barren as plenty of parts from the A model were not used in the instructions. I wanted to really flesh it out and also give it a more menacing look. As for sturdiness, it was already sturdy enough but now it looks even more so. A big difference from the original would be in the front area. I kept the headlight stands, but removed the headlights and instead added the panels used for the Corvette's taillights. The yellow indicators are from the 42103 Dragster set and the four headlights from 42104 Race Truck or 42088 Cherry Picker (only has two though, but plenty of other useful parts). Where the headlights would have been mounted I added a couple of pieces which can resemble proper "get out the way, move b..." horns. I also added a proper front bumper, a bit Mad Max style since I didn't like how exposed the steering assembly was initially. The bumper side pieces are from the Cherry Picker and the central bit from the Dragster. Here's a frontal pic. I think it resembles a praying mantis and that I find quite appealing. A three quarter view. Important modifications would be the wider 43.2x22 mm tires, just like for the Corvette. This was much easier though. I had to use some slightly longer axles and half bushes a their ends so they wouldn't look strange sticking out from the wheels like that. The engine got the same treatment with the cylinder sleeves represented by 1x1 beams. I left the yellow half bushes as pistons. For one they fit this model better, second I don't have enough gray ones to fit here and also fit to other models where really needed. There's also a couple of extra fins between the exhaust and the original, longitudinally mounted fins. There's another picture below better showing the setup. Another addition would be the side-mirrors, which I'm not 100% sure about. They look like mirrors but are a bit too bulky for my taste. Right now with the leftover parts I don't see an obvious, much better solution and would rather not spend some of the more exotic ones. With the setup as it is though the mirrors remain well in place and have a decent range of motions. A closer look. The second pair of orange wings are attached via a Cross Block piece. That piece is linked at the rear with a Beam 1X2 W/Cross And Hole which connects the black 4x2 L beam you see on top with another orange 6x1 beam at the bottom. An interior screenshot from the other side posted below shows more. I also replaced the black exhaust endings with silver ones from the Dragster. They look much more like real exhausts now. The side view. You can start to better see the extra seats in the interior and an extra wing added at the back. Interior time. I added a full length dashboard rather than the original 3 stud wide beam only meant to hold the steering wheel. There's a single instrument right in the center as would have been the case originally for many such old cars. I also added a floor mounted shifter. The part is 6553 Catch and has a red bush on top for a knob. We also have two seats mimicking gray and black fabric (or leather for the more pretentious kind). They're three 5x3 L beams. They're linked to the middle assembly there via black pins going though the center of what would be the seat bottom. I also put an axle though though the first pinhole to better secure them together. Here you can also better see why the mirrors don't look fully fine. I'm missing the smooth face pieces to connect to get rid of the studs on them but for now I have to make do. I suspect I should get them or find a better altogether alternative before too long though. Here's a photo from the opposite angle, showing better how the seats are connected. No changes further back of the seats. Also, as they are, the seats cannot be moved further back as they'd interfere with part of the opening top portion and the yellow axle acting as a reinforcement for same portion. Onto the rear. The extended rear wing came because I wanted to fill in the top and actually ran out of the original length parts. So I had to place some extended beams instead and saw that it gave me just enough space to mount a couple of small wings. They worked out just fine and also allowed me to attach indicators and taillights. I think it looks cool like that, like a mini-truck cab that had been used for the body instead of a smaller vehicle's cab. Finally, here's a bottom pic. There are no structural changes here. You can see a couple of beam colors swapped at the front, the floor mounted shifter next to the central axle and the wide rear tires. Nothing rubs, nothing clashes, all work well together. That's pretty much it. Right now the models are fit enough to be proudly displayed alongside my die casts. I'm sure that as I get more parts I may even swap out a few details or colors for certain parts. Small details aside the original designs were pretty much nailed when it comes to proportions for such a (small) scale. It's a pity they couldn't add a few extra pieces here and there to fill some of the empty spaces a bit more. Anyway I don't see how much more could be done for this scale. Any gearbox or motorization added would either alter the proportions or at the very least get rid of the interior as we've already seen with some mods for this set. For me though, at this scale, I'd prefer interiors and details as these models will remain assembled as display pieces. Next on my list would be to build some of the larger sets (to help me get through the COVID-19 quarantine boredom) and will use the spare pieces from the smaller sets to buff and add details to them. I've done the Defender, next should be the Chiron and maybe then the Car Transporter. The plan is that by the time I'm done with that I should have enough experience and spare parts to build my first custom (MOC) car to put on its platform next to the blue car (which will be modified to better resemble a real life car). With that I do hope that some of you will find value in these modifications. By all means, if you're still interested in this set try them out and if you get stuck at a certain point and don't know how I did a certain modification let me know. I'll gladly help out.
  15. OpenBagTwo

    [MOC] 2020 Corvette C8

    Since the first time I saw one, I've been in love with the third-generation Corvette and been fascinated by the man behind it, Zora Arkus-Duntov, a man who'd fled the Nazis, raced at Le Mans and become so enamored by the early Corvettes that he talked his way into a job at GM as an engineer. While the original Corvettes were soft luxury cars, designed to compete with the Ford Thunderbird, Arkus-Duntov saw the car's potential as a European-style, proper sports car, and with the C3 Stingray, that's what it became. But Arkus-Duntov had greater ambitions for the Corvette--as early as 1959, he toyed with the concept of putting the engine behind the driver, but while he continued to refine the idea over the next four decades, he could never quite get GM to green-light a production model of a mid-engined Corvette. Zora Arkus-Duntov died in 1996 having made the Corvette into America's sports car, but without ever succeeding in making it America's supercar. Last week, GM President Mark Reuss unveiled the newest generation of Corvette, the C8. It would feature aggressive jet fighter inspired styling, eschew the traditional leaf-spring suspension for proper coil-overs... and finally, finally, place its massive powerful 495 bhp 6.2L behind the driver. This is my Lego model of that car. It's obviously too early to know how the car performs and handles, but I have a feeling it will do Arkus-Duntov proud. I'm Here, Father by Antar Iliev, on Flickr The C3 MOC in the above and the following shots is by the amazing Jonathan Elliot. New Century, Same Vision by Antar Iliev, on Flickr Evolution and Revolution by Antar Iliev, on Flickr I've made available PDF instructions, digital files and parts lists for this moc all via Rebrickable.
  16. REVIEW - 42093 - CHEVROLET CORVETTE ZR1 INTRODUCTION We do see a lot of licensed Technic sets lately. In that regard, this set is not special. What is special, is the scale of this model. At first glance, you might not notice it, but this is a rather small set, still packing lots of details. At a price of € 39,99 you basically can't go wrong. Let's see if that is indeed the case. But before we do that, take a look at what we are aiming for. This review might be less detailed than usual, but time was limited. Sorry about that. I do hope you enjoy it anyway! PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42093 Title: Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 Theme: Technic Released: 2019 Part Count: 579 Box Weight: 748 gram Box Dimensions: 35,3 cm x 18,9 cm x 9,0 cm Set Price (RRP): € 39,99 Price per Part: € 0,069 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Booklet 1x Sticker sheet 6x Unnumbered bags BOOKLET STICKER SHEET BAGS HIGHLIGHTED PARTS TECHNIC MUDGUARD 9 x 3 x 2 This new part is the slightly smaller variant of the big mudguard panel we see quite often nowadays. I am looking forward to seeing this part appear in other official sets and/or MOCs. One can get very creative with it. 11 x 3 CURVED PANELS I overlooked the fact that these panels are new too. Thanks to @Ngoc Nguyen for pointing it out. WHEELS AND RIMS At first, these parts don't seem so special, but they kinda are. The tires only appear in the London Bus and the rims are new in black. Both slightly smaller than the rims in and tires we often see in the pull-back racer sets. 20T DOUBLE BEVEL GEAR WITH CLUTCH This gear first appeared in the Bugatti Chiron and it's good to see it pop-up in another set. Quote from the Chiron review; it's basically the same as the regular 20T bevel gear, but it has a pin hole, instead of axle hole. And it has clutches on both sides. PART LIST I was surprised to see two pages, for the number of parts (579). This is because the smaller size of the booklet. THE BUILD The blue clutch gear is used to connect the HoG steering to the rear axle. The differential is (indirectly) connected to the crankshaft. Since this is a smaller scale car, it uses a different fake engine design. Here you can see the crankshaft, lifting the cylinders. The bottom of the surprises here. The left-over parts. COMPLETED MODEL There has been some debate about this car, and its resemblance to the real car. Obviously, it's hard to get it entirely right, but I do think the designer delivered a remarkably fine model! Especially with the scale in mind. If I have to name one negative thing, it would not be the front of the car. It would be the doors, or lack thereof. The side panels don't open up. Admittedly, the rear of the car shows a more characteristic Corvette look than the front. Just enough stickers to add some details to the car. Comparison between the front and rear. Bottom view of the entire chassis. What I absolutely love about this model is its working V8 engine. The cylinders are actually moving, and they are clearly visible. This adds a lot of value for me. Here are some extra pictures showing the Corvette in all its glory. B-MODEL Not the first time we have seen a Hotrod B-model, but who doesn't love a Hotrod?! It looks interesting enough to give it a go. SUMMARY This summary will be short and simple. I love everything about this model. Given the scale, the designer really made this model stand out. And for 40 euros you get a very fun little model. That boils down to only 6,5 eurocent per part, which is cheap. This is the perfect gift if you are looking for a reasonably priced Technic set. Two big thumbs up for this set! I sure hope we get more sets like this, which obviously is to be expected. PROS Price! HoG steering Working V8 Design New mudguard panels New rims and tires CONS Doors don't open (minor gripe) SCORE How do I rate this set? 9 DESIGN Perfect design, given the scale. 7 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Enjoyable, but nothing really special. 7 FEATURES The working V8 engine is very cool. 7 PLAYABILITY It does what a car does, with HoG steering. 8 PARTS The new panels and tires/rims can be interesting for MOC builders. 9 VALUE FOR MONEY Can't go wrong for this price. 7,8 GREAT VALUE FOR MONEY FINAL WORDS Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found here.
  17. Specifications: (source: feature video, see above) I do not own the rights for the original design: the ship is created for a hard sci-fi audio drama The Sojourn produced by Spacedock. The model is created using LEGO Digital Designer, rendered in POV-Ray and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop. The Instructions are available on my Gumroad Store FOR FREE: Thank you for your attention!
  18. When the first time a hammerhead corvette appeared in the Star Wars universe, it was the start of a fantastic journey. After the Endar Spire the Hammerhead was seen for the first time by Rebels and in Rouge One it had its biggest appearance so far. Now the Hammerhead Corvette has earned its place among the best starships. HC7_1_2 by IRONDUCK, on Flickr HC9_1 HC8_1 HC10_1 HC3_1
  19. I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: Instruction: Google Drive: Dropbox:
  20. DarthTwoShedsJackson

    [MOC] Argus III: CR90 Corvette

    Since TheNerdyOne_ posted his first ships for his Rebel Fleet, I was inspired to build some capital rebel ships myself. The CR90 (a.k.a. Corellian Corvette or Blockade Runner) is propably my favorite rebel capital ship - its fast and pretty maneuverable for its size, heavily armed, easy to reconfigure for different tasks, and most importantly of all, it has interesting shapes as a model and a nice contrast between its elegant long shape and the massive engine array on the back. I initially started by building TheNerdyOne_'s Corvette according to his LDD files, but I quickly realized that this model could not be built with bricks without the application of glue. So, while his model still remained my inspiration, I set out to do what's most fun with LEGO: Come up with my very own build. The model is roughly the scale of TheNerdyOne_'s Corvette - it's slightly bigger - and built very differently to his model, so that I can now with confidence call it a MOC of my own. The core consists of alternating layers of bricks and two plates stacked in multiples with a footprint of 2x3 and 2x5 studs, with modified studs (one stud on the side) running along the middle. 1xX plates are connected to the studs that run along the sides of the core structure in the middle and make for a super-sturdy base with studs on the front, sides, and optionally on top and bottom where needed. Both the engine array and the display stand are connected deep into or with the core, which results in one of the most sturdy models I have ever build. The ship I built I have christened 'ARGUS III'. It's a ship attached to Phoenix Squadron which has been outfitted with a very powerful sensor array and the capability to mask its signature to some extend. The ARGUS III has been used on several occasions by FULCRUM (Ahsoka Tano) to spy on imperial facilities and intercept secret imperial transmissions - lastly near Mustafar. I hope you like the model, and I hope @TheNerdyOne_ likes it, too - your fleet is the inspiration for my own fleet, which will hopefully join the ARGUS III in time.
  21. One of my favourite recent Star Wars ship designs has to be the Carrion Spike which appeared in some of the Marvel comics: unlike a lot of the rusty ships bits of junk that are iconic to star wars, the ship has a very streamlined narrow spear like shape. Since I was such a fan of this design, I decided to build a model using the Carrion Spike as inspiration for SHIPtember. As I'm sure most of you've realised SHIPtember has come and gone and it's been almost half a year since the deadline so why the holdup? I'd love to say that I'd been slaving away improving the model but in truth I just never got around to posting it. So here it (finally) is, the Nomad's Spear. The Nomad's Spear was a ship in service to the New Republic shortly after The Battle Of Endor, one of a line of ships which were designed based on stolen Imperial blueprints to create a cloaked and exceptionally lightweight and speedy corvette, which, thanks to it's highly powered engines, could quickly sneak through Imperial blockades undetected to deliver aid until these planets could be liberated. As a result of its stealth abilities and the peaceful nature of its normal missions, the ship lacked any sort of offensive firepower. Furthermore, a lack of particularly bulky shields meant the ship saw limited service outside of delivering supplies. Following the Battle of Jakku and the widespread collapse of any remaining Imperial holdouts, the mercy missions the corvettes were tasked with became increasingly infrequent and these rare few ships became increasingly uncommon. Most found themselves deconstructed or left in hangars but the Nomad's Spear was redrafted into supporting New Republic fleets. Technicians and mechanics removed armour from the already vulnerable cockpit area and the plating in front of the engines to get better access to the ship's systems. This allowed them to fine tune the craft and increase shield output, helping the ship survive many missions over its 10 year service to the New Republic before new models made the ship obsolete. Hope you enjoyed that little backstory I quickly came up with. Sadly since this these pictures have been sat on my computer for ages, I can't really get anymore images of this MOC but since I had to make the spine of the structure sturdy there wasn't really any interior to see.
  22. Hey Guys I am new to Eurobricks, but here is my first MOC that I have posted to the forum. It is a Corvette C7 ZR1 with a body made out of system bricks and a Technic chassis. The car has steering, a functioning small-cylinder model V8, and opening doors. However, there is no suspension or interior. I have plans to make the car RC, but that will be quite the challenge. You can check out the video below.
  23. I have built a C7 Z06 fully customized to street racing spec. Please leave any comments that you want. Thanks @StangMan302
  24. "Emile, where are we going?" Elise asked. "Just keep your eyes closed, we're almos there, promise," Emile replied. Careful," Jean said as he helped Elise into the boat. "Bit of a drop." "We're not going fishing are we?" Elise asked, slight annoyance in her voice. "No, nothing of the sort, dear," Emile returned as he stepped into the boat. As Jean cast off and rowed, Emile ignored Elise's questions for a few more moments. Then, he said, "Open them now." Elise gazed in awe at the corvette. "Emile, this is yours?" "The Elise," he said. "Named for you." As they pulled alogn the starboard side, Emile started telling Elise about the ship. "18 guns in total. The figurehead was designed to resemble you. Enough room for the old crew and some new ones to keep her afloat." "Ropes so no one falls in high seas or battle," Emile continued. "Or for William when he drinks too much?" Elise questioned. "Yes, but don't tell him that," the captain confirmed in a whisper. "Anyway as you can see some of the new crew have already come aboard." "Welcome back, Captain," Rene said as he helped pull Emile and Elise up on the deck. "Gilbert is ready to go, it seems." "Way up there is Henri for the rigging, as is his job. Also one of the new crewmen is there, positioned perfectly for taking out targets when we board." "Don't mention that," Elise said. "Of course." "Shall we see how she fares?" Emil asked. "Yes." Some background on the ship and building. First I want to say thanks to @Sebeus I as I studied his Beatrix for the hull, and various other things, changing them to my own taste. Also a big thanks to @Kolonialbeamter and @Bodi for their feedback as I was designing, specifically on the stern. That was the hardest part (as always). I also took some inspiration from The Walrus from STARZ' show Black Sails for the masts and yard arms, as well as the ropes. Those yellow tubes were challenging to flex and do in LDD, but I think they look fine. I'm actually really pleased with how this came out, and I'm kind of amazed how far I have come in designing ships from a few years ago, which were incredibly bulky and square. Thanks for looking, and C&C are welcome!
  25. HighDesertBrikr

    [MOC] Corvette Micro-Scale Spaceship

    Hey fellow Lego fans! It's me HDB, and this time I have a spaceship tutorial. This one is a corvette sized spaceship. If any of you like the vid, then drop a comment down below. Thanks for watching! HDB out!