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Found 449 results

  1. Hello all, I found the latest iteration of the material handler a bit flimsy, and esthetically not so nice and I also didn't like the wheel base. So I decided to mod the 42053 material handler to beast mode. It has the latest control+ XL-motor with the dumb battery box and one small pump. The cabin of the 42053 is reused without modifications, the grabber is reused with a bit of modifications, and the design of the aft section is also reused. For the booms I used the 42144 design. The crane uses ballast in the track section and in de crane body. The ballast are small metal bearing balls in the LBG-boxes, which are easily removable It's an 'electrical' excavator with external power supply, the cable is reeled in and out together with the movement of the tracks In total there are 6 cylinders and 1 small pump (should have been 2, but there was no room in the body) a few openable hatches I hope you like it, due to time restraints I couldn't eleborate the design more, I will make I claw grabber in due time
  2. Hello everyone, I have recently picked up a 42054. Immediately I noticed the insane amount of backlash and resistance in the steering system. Here's how I fixed it: 1: Finding the problem: The problem was one of these: It was adding lots of friction which caused the grand majority of the backlash. It is added in this step (step 57 substep 2): 2. Replacing the piece. This was relatively simple, I replaced it with one of these: I had to hold the other piece in before placing it into the assembly, but it was totally worth it. There is little to no backlash and resistance. So, that's it! Thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  3. This model was heavily inspired by the Toy Shop in the just-revealed-yesterday set 10308 - Holiday Main Street from the Winter Village collection. I added a back to it, changed the color scheme around, fixed some areas, and replaced the toys with items for sale to make it into a shop for fashion designer Edna Mode. (from the Incredibles films) Apparently she has branched off from superhero costumes. NOTE: Some printed parts are currently missing, such as the 1x2 tile for the sign above the front door. A few other parts' printed designs will change when built IRL. The rear has a delivery entrance. The technic pin off to the side is to lock the walls shut, as in the 2009 set 10193 - Medieval Market Village. On the inside, the lower floor has the shop full of items for sale - from tiaras to top hats, pants to suits. Upstairs is the tailor's workshop, complete with sewing machine and long folds of different-colored cloth. The vintage sewing machine was from free instructions seen on Rebrickable by user @Scarlet_Patronus. (The lower floor's display cases were also based on items from this talented builder.) This building costs about $30 less than the post office (also inspired by 10308), so this shop will probably be purchased first. Thoughts?
  4. I really like the new city space line and 60229 is my favorite of the line. But there are two aspects of it that I thought should be improved to live up to the name of the set. The crane needed more range of motion and the truck needed to be longer to actually carry more of the rocket components. I extended the truck by one axle and the length of the bed, so that it can properly carry the shuttle portion and single rocket boosters (they still hang off though). The most serious mod is adding another axis of motion to the overhead crane, built on two baseplates. I used the new rollercoaster tracks for this which worked well. I also built a ramped platform for the truck to bring its bed height closer to the bed of the rocket transporter. Lastly I added a cab and supporting railings and ladder to the crane so that it can actually be operated by someone instead of mysteriously moving on its own. Enjoy and comments are appreciated!
  5. Robert8

    Ideas for CMFs

    Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J SERIES K SERIES L SERIES M SERIES N SERIES Ñ SERIES O SERIES P SERIES Q ADVENT CALENDAR SERIES R SERIES S SPOOKY CALENDAR ADVENT CALENDAR 2 SERIES T SERIES U SERIES V SERIES W SERIES X SERIES Y SERIES Z --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail Leaflet: Box distribution (60 minifigures) So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year SERIES B
  6. Hello all, Because I'm starting on a new project I will disassemble a few models and I wanted to share them here as a summary of my builds this year. Here are the models which will be disassembled. First of all my crawler crane. I'm more or less proud of this model, as it represents very good a real crane (in my opinion) and I think it was a really good build. Second we have the unimog, it was a build that stretched over various months/years with additions along the way. The last addition was the blue knuckleboom crane. It was full pneumatic, including the outriggers. The swinging of the crane was not good due to the many hoses going through the turntable. also the crane resulted to small for the height of the unimog. But folded it looked quite good proportion wise. Next Is the batmobile, I bought the 42127 set just to build the unofficial b-model, and i must say it really looks good. The model is also a good parts pack for black components, which I'll need for my next project. My son also liked the model and he built a model of his own with system bricks. Last is a model that I will not take apart but further modify and that is the iconic lego heli set 9396. I won't bump the original MOD pages so I'll post the foto's here. I'm planning to build it like the new airbus helicopter with a AA battery box instead a AAA box, I want to make another gear box so the rotor spins faster. Maybe I put the rotorhead of the airbus in this one when I acquire the set. This MOD of the 9396 has in total 4 motors 2 L-motors for the rotor, 1 m-motor for the landing gear (including 2 mini LA's) and 1 m-motor for the whinch. The cargo ramp is omitted in my mod. Also the tail boom was revised, and some minor visual changes behind and in front of the rotor assembly. Also the nose section was revised a bit. Also the winch was revised. My next project will be a full pneumatic, non-rc material handler based on this crane I hope you liked the post, comments are always welcome
  7. gabrielerava

    [MOD] Heinrich Hospital

    Dear all, I would like to introduce my latest little work, named Heinrich Hospital. I've been working on it for a while in order to obtain some decent photos. And finally I did it. I built it a couple of months ago, but the idea was longer waiting in my head, since I bought the original Lego model 60204 "City Hospital" in 2018. A long time ago in fact. It's a beautiful model in my opinion but it needs to be modified to be inserted in a modular city and I wanted it to be in the center quarter of Rava Town (my Lego City). Arounfd the web I met several modularized versions of the original playset. The mods I found were all bigger and, let me say, simply modularized. But I needed something different because the center of Rava Town is rather old fashioned, so I decided to modify it accordingly on my own. I wanted a mix of new and old. And this is the final result in a few photos. https://www.flickr.com/photos/132864555@N03/with/52150948644/ Hope You liked it and see you next time! Edit: 2023 Lego modular building will be an hospital, of course...
  8. This project started about year ago as upscaled version of Dodge Charger R/T 1970 from set 75893 - 2018 Dodge Challenger SRT Demon and 1970 Dodge Charger R/T (as you can see looking at it's front) & since then (well since abandoning idea of having red stripe at back) evolved into modular Dodge Charger second generation MOC but can also be viewed as MOD of sets: 75893 - 2018 Dodge Challenger SRT Demon and 1970 Dodge Charger R/T 76173 - Spider-Man and Ghost Rider vs. Carnage 76912 - Fast & Furious 1970 Dodge Charger R/T There are some extensions not yet show, I'll update this post with additional pictures as soon as they are finished. Project is 95% finished since only remaining issues are: - better insides (replace invisible from outside bricks [well, mainly plates] to increase integral stability of model - decide which details I prefer most (for example mirrors) - add movie/tv shows/other (popular?) variants of car (for example blade version) - connected to "better insides" because it has to be modular compatible (and that may require small changes in modular system like it happened few times before) So this is (hopefully not too long) intro, let’s jump to pictures of said MOC (MOD?): 1968: 1969: 1970: Old build body - without doors: Openable hood & trunk - tried different variations that would be visually nice & would fit here but I couldn't find any other than cutting three light bluish gray brackets - 99207 - so I didn't: Ghost Rider modification (1969): Additional photos of back (which I'm super proud of) for version 1968: & 1969-70: Color variations: Last minute changes (if we can call two-three weeks ago like that): used 15625 (Slope Curved 5 x 8 x 2/3) part instead of combination of 15068 (Slope Curved 2 x 2 x 2/3) + tiles + plates for better curve at back added 25269 (Tile Round 1 x 1 Quarter) in doors Both changes are inspired from upcoming speed champions set. Old versions of car are still visible in pictures - for example all colored versions (yellow/red/gray or black "Old build body - without doors") What parts are modular? - front - front air intakes with (or without?) lights and also box that contains them (intake + lights part can be replaced inside box between versions or with enough parts whole box can be replaced) - back - whole back panel - lights are different between 1968 and 1969 (1970 is the same as 1969 one) - mask - used to add air intakes or supercharger (or both) - R/T printed tiles (wherever they fit) - wheels (different variations require different wheels) - seats (different variations require different seats combination/colors of seats) Additionally this is my first post here: Hi everyone, have a great day! ------------- Update: Instructions available for free -> https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119419/thomasanderson/modular-dodge-charger-2nd-generation-1968-70-8-wide/
  9. Hi Guys, Here to share my RC MODs and MOCs, wish you like them. Please comment below. Thanks! https://rebrickable.com/users/WW Bricks Studio/mocs/ [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42143 Ferrari Daytona SP3 Power functions -BuWizz 3.0 x1 -Driving: PF XL motor x2 -Steering: PF Servo motor x1 - Doors: PU M motor x2 - Engine cover: PU M motor x1 [RC] LEGO Technic 42141 McLaren F1 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42130 BMW M 1000 RR controlled by BuWizz App [RC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari 488 GTE + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42115 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L & M motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 Lamborghini Sian with BuWizz 2.0 [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42110 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 2 PU L Motors [RC] LEGO Technic 42110 RC Land Rover Defender with BuWizz 2.0 [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 Bugatti Chiron with BuWizz 2.0 My alternative F1 MOCs were made by 42083/42110/42115, [MOC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari F1 Car [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 RC Lamborghini F1 car
  10. 42132 may be one of smallest sets of first wave of 2022, but still, its awesome tiny set. I created replacement engine for its B model, which just drops in on default attachement points without any alterings of the frame. I even tried to make it at least detailed... Empty frame, and new and old engine side-by-side New Engine on its place. LDD model of said engine - https://www.dropbox.com/s/wlkeqmghsg38m1y/42132 B alt engine.lxf?dl=0
  11. Dear all, as discussed in the TrainTech forum, I am posting here in the Community forum some modding on a 10-wide BR 89 fully LEGO compatible display model from BlueBrixx, I got as birthday present this year. Why in the Community forum? Because this is - well - a BlueBrixx (BB) set MOD - mostly using LEGO stuff though. This is how she currently looks like (see below for changes to the original BB model) featuring a PoweredUp (PUp) City hub, PUp L motor, PUp color sensor, and custom rods: The TrainTech forum post referenced above shows in addition a turn table I made explicitly for the BR 89 – as I don’t have any more space in my attic to 1) accommodate a full circle of track and 2) no more floor space at all. Which means she has to run on slightly curvy track mounted to the sloped walls in my room, and since I don’t want her get too bored when just steaming back and forth, I thought she might enjoy being turned around at one end of the track section from time to time … Why the BR 89? Because I got her 50 years ago as H0 model from Märklin (in German) as Christmas present from my parents – but then really never got into model railroading – LEGO just was so much more attractive to me back then. Nevertheless, this engine is still available today from Märklin, and the 10-wide BB model looked really nice to me on their website. Some remarks BB BR 89 original set €70 – which a very good deal, bricks and plates with good quality having mostly superior clutch power as compared to LEGO pieces. Colors: I am a bit color-blind, but an expert on shades of gray, and there is room for improvement (some black pieces). However, I like the less perfect, less glossy appearance of a steam engine – have never seen a real one, even when perfectly restored, in super-glossy colors. Changes/additions Rebuilt the lower frame/driving gear/running gear. Main changes: Front axle driven by a PUp L motor (original: center axle/BB PF M motor). This also allows removing the clearly visible “Technic gear 20 Tooth” as seen in this step of the original BB instruction: Furthermore, narrowed the frame at the center axle/wheels from 4- to 3-wide, allowing the flanged center wheels to move inward when negotiating corresponding curves. As the BR 89 is running in eye height in my room, I simply do not like the blind wheels. These are perfect and unavoidable in other builds, however in this case I reverted to the split axle design originally shown by @Ben Beneke on his BR 23 and used all six wheels with flanges. I have motorized Ben’s BR 23 over 10 years ago using the same approach as shown here:With regard to the 89 it is even tougher for her to manage R40 curves, see MLCad picture below, as the front and rear axles are 13 studs apart and the big train wheels don’t help at all. On the split axle there is a piece of medium soft foam inserted between the “Technic axles 2” pressing the wheels very gently onto the connecting rods. When going through a curve, the inner wheel is moving correspondingly and moved back on straight track: Lowered the position of the motor within the frame and moved it forward. This is required when the cabin space shall remain (almost) as “spacious” as in the original, as the PUp L motor is two studs longer than a PF M motor. Added/moved some plates here and there to make the frame a little sturdier, as it became rather “brittle” with the PUp L motor installed. Rebuilt the lower section (frame) of the smoke box to attach a PUp color sensor facing down as well as for the wires (motor and sensor) and accommodate a PUp City hub, which is 3 plates higher than a BB RF battery box. The upper body of the engine seen from below in the picture below does not fit this way onto the frame - this was work in progress. I disassembled the upper body layer by layer and rearranged the layout on the fly when building up the engine on the new frame: Rebuilt, raised (1/2 stud), and moved (1 stud) the cylinders so that the valve gear still runs free, the piston rods are almost on the same height as the wheel axles, and the main rod does not become too long: Moved the connection point of the main rod to the rear wheel (as in the real engine) using custom connection and coupling rod(s) and added some "valve gear": And placed the PUp City hub partly on top of the motor with a one-plate-spacing for the wires: An ESP32 Dev kit (nothing else required, about 10€) programmed within the current Arduino IDE (C++) using the current Legoino library from Cornelius Munz is controlling the setup (turn table and engine operation). Manual control can be done with the PUp remote (left dial keys: turn table motor fwd, rev, stop; right dial keys: BR 89 motor fwd, rev, stop; center key: emergency, all hubs turned off immediately), however this is intended for debugging only, as the setup runs autonomously. The turn table features a PUp L motor as well, so on both table and engine, repeatedly pressing the fwd key increases speed (not power) by 5% using a smooth acceleration profile; same for rev. Stop is a brutal stop though! Some remarks on the original BB BR 89 set: As said, the original BB version is a display model. It features 6 flanged driver wheels; in addition, they give you two blind drivers as well – which tells you that this model is already sturdy enough to go through curves. The original idea is to put the engine onto a (very nicely done!) stand, which elevates it slightly above track level, and then use a BB PF compatible M-motor along with the BB RF battery box and RF controller to "just" turn the wheels. A PF M motor is not powerful enough to run her on track. YouTube's user Bricked4You has published some very nice videos on retrofitting the original display model into a nicely performing LEGO track compatible engine (in German), which is also nicely coping with R40 curves, using a BB PF-L compatible motor. Instead of using BB’s PF compatible stuff (L-motor, RF battery box, RF controller) I wanted to operate my 89 with TLG’s PoweredUp gear – why? Because using a tacho motor (e.g. PUp L motor - BL price for a new motor is about 1/3 of what LEGO asks for on their shop website) along with the “SetSpeed” command (rather than “SetPower”), she moves slowly but steadily, curved track or not, i.e., is far less affected by changing friction forces. The regulated rpm setting is ensured by the motor’s built-in rotation sensor and the PoweredUp hub hard/firmware, which reads and translates the rotation sensor data into appropriate power settings to maintain the "desired" speed. I really like to watch the valve gear when a steamer moves slowly … And I wanted the entire setup (BR 89, turn table) to run autonomously without any user interference (other than moving the BR 89 into startup position). One issue in this scenario is “safety”. When the 89 dives from the approximately 1.5 m height and crashes into the 9/12 V train layout below, serious damage is to be expected – and I don’t want that to happen (I also don’t like crash-videos ...). The TrainTech link given at the top of this post shows the (elevated) track the BR 89 has to negotiate along the wall. (Note that the following two files are deep linked on BrickShelf - thus you are taken directly to the file content. When moderated, I will change this to point to the files) LDraw model including the PUp stuff is available here (note that there are two versions of the drive mechanism – the “new” one is described here); current Arduino sketch as well – rename .txt file to .ino to load it into the Arduino IDE. Video will hopefully follow in a couple of days, I sure hope – I am terrible at doing videos . Best regards, Thorsten P.S.: YES, there is also real cheating going on here : I filed off the "flange"(?) at the long side of the "Technic Pin 3/4" (LDraw #32002), which is driving the center wheel and thus needs to slide in and out in curves as well, as the wheel is moving but not the side rod. On the short pin side, it is legally attached to the center hole of the custom side rod. The would-be Walschaerts valve gear is missing (among many other things) the union link - and the combination link is made from a broken "Technic flex system cable". The intact cable terminal is legally fixed to the upper "Technic flex system pin hole connector" (LDraw #2900), the broken cable terminal is (illegally) just sliding in and out of the lower connector. I like illegal stuff
  12. In this topic I hope to collect all of my future mocs. I mostly build vehicles, as they are my favorite topic. I mostly build in black and orange for bodywork because I have the 42111 charger and 42093 corvette. The first moc I will share is a quick, simple pullback chassis with three pullback motors for rear wheel drive.
  13. This gothic-style building is inspired by 2011 Harry Potter set 10217 - Diagon Alley, specifically the Borgin and Burkes shop. Before I get started, thanks for these rendered pictures of my model goes to my brother for converting them all into Stud.io for me. They look really awesome with the printed / missing parts from LDD added back in! Anyway, this building will serve as my town's 1940's-set police station. It was heavily expanded from it's original form to have a second story and back wall. It also has hinges (like in the old Medieval Market Village - set 10193) to allow for it to open up to 90 degrees to access the inside. The building's design also features a tower, three fireplaces on one chimney flue, and staircase to the upper floor. Sadly, the attic has no room for any staircase leading to it. This model will serve as my police station on my town, and as such has a jail cell, "wanted" board, two desks and a weapons storage area by the back door. There is also a breakaway exterior wall section in the cell to bust the bad guys out! The patrol car model is heavily modified from this Rebrickable MOC's free instructions. I will have two of these cars to go with the police precinct. I plan on buying three regular 1940's-style officers and one Chief from the Police Station modular building - set 10278 for these models as well. The inside seats two figures: one officer as the driver, and one suspect in the back. That's a bout all for this building for now. I've found about 680 of 1,092 parts for the project, (minus the vehicles and figs) so it could be built relatively soon. Thoughts, anyone?
  14. This is my modular take on the Beatles concert on January 30th, 1969 at No. 3 Savile Row, then known as the Apple Corps HQ and studio. (it's back to being a house and hasn't been a studio since the mid-70's) I used half of set 76108 - Sanctum Sanctorum Showdown for the front, with a back I designed myself as that set was close enough to look passable as the original London building. I also specifically made the building more grayscale, as if the Beatles are bringing light and color to the world. You can view the photo of the original building as it is now in spoiler tags below. (WARNING: it's an very large photo from Wikipedia!) It's not my photo, either: NOTE: The following LEGO modular building was constructed for my father and his modular building collection, as he bought the bricks and I built it for him according to my design. (per his request) The figures used are from set - 21306 Yellow Submarine, and I would have included Billy Preston too as he played electric keyboard that day and for several weeks before in recording sessions, but my dad sadly misplaced the figure I created and he can't find it. (also, if you can't find George, don't worry - he is behind the chimney pipes. You can't quite see him, but he is there.) The Yellow Submarine film logo printed part will be replaced with a Beatles logo from the 2021 Art set when it arrives. The eight studs out front are for the figures (not yet built) to stop and listen to the concert. I couldn't find a picture of the back, so it's improvised, same as the inside details are fictional too. Also, I didn't include stairs in the building, because I was trying to just flesh it out in basics and worry about furniture and stuff later. The first floor (or ground, as some might call it) has a fireplace, couch, grandfather clock, a dining table with four chairs, and another table lamp. On the second floor is a bedroom with bed, cabinet, writing desk, a upright piano and a floor lamp. (I was thinking about John Lennon and Yoko Ono's week-long "bed-in for peace in Vietnam" when I designed this level) However, as Yoko is reputed to have broken up the Beatles, this will suffice for her as a figure. The items up here on the third floor include a table w/ two chairs, a record player and a lamp. There are also four bookcases of vinyl records (one for each Beatle) on this floor, along with one empty one. "I'd like to say thank you on behalf of the group and ourselves, and I hope we've passed the audition." - John Lennon, 1969 (at the conclusion of the concert and as heard on the album "Let it Be") My dad designed the Ringo fig's drum-set, and I have three of this stove-top part on order for amplifiers. Any Thoughts, Comments or Questions? I'd be happy to answer them! Also, side note: if you are a Beatles fan and have several hours to kill, watch the Get Back documentary by Peter Jackson. It's split in three parts and has nine hour overall runtime, but it's awesome.
  15. Ok, so this house MOC is actually a MOD of a MOC. It was taken from a set of Shrieking Shack instructions by JL.Bricks and heavily modified into a facsimile of 1920's-style house... or, at least it's close enough to work with a de-winterized Winter Village line and / or Hogsmeade Village Visit without snow. (set 76388) See this Rebrickable link to see what I modified it from. I added a flip-open back like in Medieval Market Village. (set 10193 - It's hard to believe that set is 13 years old!) The building was originally winter (and Harry Potter) themed, but it clashed way too much with my other buildings that way, as they aren't winter themed. Basically, it's a normal, non-Christmas house now. The back of the house is a new design by me. I had to redo the roof from plates ands tiles (as it was originally shown) to slopes as it was too fragile. The lower floor features a coat rack, table w/ two chairs, and a steam heater borrowed from set 10185. (Green Grocer) Upstairs we have a bed (plus another steam radiator) with clock and framed map on the walls. More details are in the back of the house, such a kitchen stove, couch, along a with a few more living room details. There is a model railroad upstairs as well. This vehicle was originally inspired by @hachiroku's model of the staff car from Raiders of the Lost Ark, and can be found here in his photo-stream. The car can be seen above with all the furniture from the inside of the house. (This picture was taken before house construction started... I've broken enough reddish brown brick on this to just tear the innards out just for one picture!) Speaking of the car, here it is by itself. inside view of the car. Seats one in front and one behind. (if you can get your fingers in there, that is!) The rear view showcasing the spare tire as mounted on the trunk. As usual, comments, questions complaints, and suggestions welcome! EDIT 4/6/22: FINALLY, it's done! The house has been in-progress since August of 2021 and was starting to drive me crazy.
  16. Ever since buying my first copy of Toy Story 3 LEGO set 7597 in May / June 2010, I've wanted to make the steam engine in the set look more realistic. The lack of tender bothered me greatly, and so did a few other things I talk about below. I created my first steam loco MOC I could call my own from it's framework, but that failed hard to even make turns at all when built in real life. (I suspect R120 wouldn't even work with that model.) So, it was scrapped in 2012 after sitting around for two years despite my best attempts to get it working. The Lone Ranger sets came out the following year, and I forgot about the odd 7597 engine as years went by and my skills increased. Then, in July / August of this year, a decade after I bought the original copy, I saw set 7597 sitting complete in a window of my local LEGO resale store. It was purchased, and I started working on a design soon thereafter. Of course, the person who purchased it for me (It cost a bit) wouldn't let me get at it physically until November, but nonetheless, here is that design all polished up and ready to roll into your collection via the free LDD file you can find at the end of this post. The locomotive as it is in LDD upon opening the file, which you will find at the bottom of this post. Almost all the needed parts for this MOD are grouped in the file. Everything else should already be on the stock loco model from the set, though it will need to be mostly taken apart to allow you to rebuild it with my changes. if you are building the MOD from set 7597, there are only two printed 1 x 4 green bricks on the tender that should be printed like so. However, if you are building the loco from scratch, use four of the above parts, (two on tender, two on the loco) and one of these 2 x 2 red printed bricks for the number on the headlight. 99.8% of the parts needed for the conversion from the set are shown above. The printed parts are unprinted as shown, and the red wheels are shown, but not available from BrickLink. You will need need one of these custom wheel parts packs in red color (plus 4x part 2878 for holding said custom wheels) for the tender wheels from BrickTracks to complete the tender. Among my changes, I lowered the loco cab floor of my copy of 7597 (Western Train Chase) loco by a brick or so to compensate for the roof being a brick fewer height-wise and to better match the floor of the tender. This still allows for the taller 2010 Toy Story figures to still fit inside the loco cab, and also making for a smoother transition from train cars to steam engine. This change also made the left-to-right swiveling driving wheel section impossible to keep, (I didn't like it anyway!) and by extension the front bogie had to change too. Thus, the connection to the leading wheels from the driving wheels was changed to a 10194-syle design to allow for you to push the train on the track without derailing. I also never liked the awkward original piston design in 7597, so I changed it to have a more stable, non-floppy connection to the engine via a double Technic pin connector. Actual working cylinders connected to the new side rods will never be a thing on this engine due to the way the pistons are attached to the new moving front bogie instead of the boiler, but I can mimic the effect pretty well with the design I have here. You can find the LDD file here at my Bricksafe page for it. I haven't quite finished taking pictures of my version of the model, but this photo of it and it's sister loco (dark blue steamer NOT Included in file!) will do for now. Please note, the model shown has color changed side-rods and "pistons" due to parts I had on hand from my collection. It isn't quite like the LDD file because the parts in said file are cheaper when colored like they are. (Thought I'd save you guys a couple dollars / yen / rubles / euros, etc.) Plus, it makes my different than everybody else's! Thoughts?
  17. I digitally recreated this model on January 30th, practically the day pictures of set 40532 - Vintage Taxi were revealed. I then ordered the six new black brackets + about 295 other parts from Lego Bricks and Pieces (R.I.P.) and the rest from BrickLink. Most of the car was finished February 7th, but the black brackets only arrived today. (March 24th). Here is how I recreated the car without instructions by guesswork: For this model I used Rebrickable's inventory to get a parts list of set 40532, removed all the accessories' parts (taxi stand, mini-fig, etc.) and changed the color of the yellow parts to several other colors to see what worked before settling on dark red. As this was designed / built before the instructions were released, it was just a visible parts field at first. (Nothing but parts laid out in a grid in LDD.) I didn't want to wait for the instructions while part prices could go up and thus I reverse engineered it using only logical part placements from the list. I also used Brickset's review of the set for reference to things official LEGO pictures didn't give... although I did miss a 1 x 2 green plate part doing it this way, and had to get a black one from my own collection. I changed the wheels to be something I already have in the same basic size, and the front grille to be a different style for reasons of cost saving and individuality. (If everyone else is going to have that one-piece front grille, why follow the crowd?) Doing something similar, but yet not the same was a goal in this entire project to begin with anyway. I added a license plate to the rear of the vehicle. The car still seats two with room for some luggage behind the passenger. As for the other 295 parts I purchased that January day, they are going to this house build which you can see more of in it's own topic here. All the parts have finally been gathered, with construction to start VERY soon, possibly Saturday... eight months after I started looking for parts for it! Thoughts, comments, and or complaints welcome!
  18. My model of Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle was created from scratch and it is based on the construction solutions of the 75094 set. First it was created in LDD and later, after ordering the bricks, I made a number of significant adjustments. The biggest challenge was to keep the proportions as decent as possible, which, apart from the limitations resulting from the use of the 75094 skeleton, does not seem to me to be a simple thing on this scale. Among other things, for this reason, I finally gave up the opened interior (on which I did not particularly care about). Wherever possible, I tried to reproduce or refer to the details of the original. You may attach the landing gear but my model will always be presented on the stand. It is very stable and consists of about 1600 parts and therefore roughly over 600 more than the progenitor. I have designed the wings from the beginning in SNOT. The body is two studs longer, and in a large part, is a completely different construction than 75094. The wings are better embedded in it and they are less swaying, which is important because they are heavier. The fin is also proportionally extended by two studs and embedded somewhat differently. I have managed to slim down the cockpit and get a minimal nose down reduction in relation to the bottom, keeping the place for the stressed Han Solo. In this scale in flying mode, it matches the height of the UCS Slave I and it is the optimal scale for this model for me. 10212 UCS in flight position (and this is the only way I imagine presenting it) is monstrously huge - I mainly mean the height. I think that my model next to the UCS would not be too ashamed. You will find more photos in my flicker album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskvtke2v Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  19. I've already built the Conjunction Junction freight train and The Caboose Who Got Loose (a MOD of a @zephyr1934 model), which you can see in the topics linked and in the pictures directly below. Until recently, however, the fact this freight train had no engine had been a major stumbling block: I looked up the 4-6-2 "Pacific" steamer from The Caboose Who Got Loose book, but it wasn't very eye-catching in the all-black color scheme. I also watched the Conjunction Junction music video and realized the engine pulling the cars is never actually seen / mentioned. This is just about where the steam engine I started this topic about comes in. Originally I had found a late-1930's 7-wide 2-8-4 (the link is to the designer's Rebrickable page) to pull this special freight train, but then I found out how expensive the eight driving wheels would have been from Bricklink. (two blind drivers by themselves are CRAZY pricy - about as expensive as the pre-packaged bag of one blind and two with flange!) So, late last week I went back to the drawing board, taking my set 7597-style MOD engine and tinkering with it. It emerged from the shop a late 1880's 2-6-0 instead of a mid-1870's 4-4-0 as it originally was. Adding working pistons is what forced me to stretch the frame and thus add in two more driving wheels. (NOTE: A four-wheel bogie truck can be easily added instead of the two-wheel one seen above... I just wanted to be cheap and not have to buy more small train wheels than was the bare minimum.) Here is the steamer as far as can be assembled right now. I'm only missing 36 parts until the loco can be completed, and another one part for Katy Caboose. (I slimmed down Katy's roofline to be 6-wide to keep it more in line with the majority of my rolling stock. I also added printed 1 x 1 letters saying "KATY" on the long sides... Not very accurate to the book I know, but it makes for people to understand what it is better.) I also took apart the original, generic green caboose I made for the Conjunction Jct. consist as I needed the parts, and because it was being replaced by the Caboose Who Got Loose. Also, if you are wondering what "WFP" stands for, it is a nod to the 12-inch gauge steam railroad I've ridden on MANY times as a child and adult. I've even displayed there some of my LEGO trains in the past as a part of Gateway LUG displays. To read more about the real Wabash Frisco and Pacific Railroad, check out their website with awesome 15 engine roster and history sections. NOTE: They don't have a 2-6-0 at the real WFP railroad or a engine numbered 289. This was a gap I naturally filled in, kind of like a fan-fic story but with a steam engine instead. Two boxcars from a part of the Schoolhouse Rock educational cartoon series. This specific early 1970's Grammar-themed rock-n-roll music video featured a diminutive stereotypical train conductor, two hobos (one fat and tall, and one small and skinny), and a train with words on it... not just any words, but CONJUNCTIONS, as the name of the video and location is Conjunction Junction. A tanker and a third boxcar. Refrigerated boxcar and stone hopper. Heavily inspired by Zephyr1934 / Trained Bricks MOC of "Katy" from the classic children's book "The Caboose who got Loose" by ex-Disney animator Bill Peet. Zephyr's version can be seen here. I didn't want to use stickers for Katy's eyes like what's being done by the original builder, so I decided to use the eyes from set 43186 (Bruni the Salamander buildable character) from the Disney Frozen II line . I also added a actual mouth, as just the two eyes without something between them looked kind of odd, most likely because of the specific eyes I chose. The MOC I based this on used a different method for the mouth using a lot of SNOT-work.... I used a brick with 2 studs on the sides and two quarter tiles to give her a open mouth. The "rear" of the caboose is the forward facing part closest to the engine, which is a part of Katy we never see in the book. Confused yet? I took some liberties with Zephyr's design, such as changing the ladders at each end to black from red, removing two wheelsets + the roof chimney, and redoing the roof itself to be much simpler. (This last one was done because I couldn't figure out the original MOC roof's curved design!) I did keep the basic SNOT-work design for the body, but made it so both halves would be stud-inwards. I also changed the roofline to be six wide instead of eight as on my inspiration's model and added the name KATY to the left and right sides. All of this makes the models less accurate to the book it's based off, but I don't really think anyone in the general public will notice. (The general LEGO community might know of some discrepancies and fellow train modelers not of the LEGO-type will not care even if I did make it accurate, as it's not a "real" train.) - More to come when the engine is completed, hopefully by March 1st! - Comments, questions, suggestions and complaints welcome!
  20. Hello Folks, i was so disappointed by the official Lego B-Wing. I really like this underestimated spaceship.In my opinion LEGO did a gerat job to capture all the details of the asymetric design in the UCS model. But 75050 isn't the UCS version . The main differences lies in the shape of the wings. They are so thin and looks cheap in comparison to USC. This was the reason to modifiy my B-Wing and I would like to share these changes Here we go... LDD-File (lxf) Original vs. modified Modified version: rendered using Bluerender(0005) and SunFlow MOD and the real guy... B-Wing_75050_Modified_V17_LarsInteractive.lxf
  21. Good day, everyone! I understand, that this is really obvious idea, but i still want to share it with you. So, when I got this amazing typewriter for christmas - my first thought after building (and half an hour of playing with it) - can it be used to do something at least minimally useful aside from just nicely standing on a shelf? I've done some simple measurement and so happens that my bluetooth keyboard (which i'm using to type this text right now) has almost the same measurements as Typewriter's keyboard. Then I've made a simple frame, Added axles under each button on typewriter. Due to proportions of the frame most fitting axles are - 6m for the lower row, 8m for the middle row and 10m for the upper row. After placing typewriter with axles on the frame - and securing it with pins - I've got a pretty useless but nice and simple invention which can be used to feel yourself like a proper XIX-XX century journalist or writer. Of course it has less keys than actual keyboard underneath, but as it is lego you may simply add more. Or make a lever for the Enter and Tab keys - possibilities are endless. Here is the video explaining it once more. Also it is showing that you may even play games, using typewriter as controller. P.S. Video has no music, so you may use it as ASMR with typewriter clicking sounds Thanks for watching!
  22. DeanLearner

    Boutique Hotel Mod

    Here is an electronic version of a Boutique Hotel mod I’ve been working on. My objectives were: 1. Increase the overall building height to one more fitting with its function, and the height of other modulars 2. Maintain the overall feel and style of the original 3. Give a bit more warmth to the colder blue/azure tones of the gallery 4. Conceal some of the awkward gap on the left-hand side 5. Avoid having to buy an entire second set, with repurposing of as many parts as possible to keep the mod budget vaguely reasonable Modifications include the following: One brick extra height to the ground and second floors, and two brick extra height to the first floor; the total height is now one plate below the height of left-hand building in assembly square. Interior details (including stairs) are also amended. Additional detailing to try to avoid the extra height becoming too plain; this was ultimately reliant upon the slightly clichéd 1x1x1 scroll bricks. White was used on the second floor to provide a greater range of parts, while the extra light nougat was almost entirely sourced from the second floor or right- hand wall. A semi-legal (only one stud connection) was used to fill the gap with the roof) I’ve played around a bit with the other colours (including the flowers), though I’m not entirely sold on this. I’m aiming for a slightly Morrocan/Moorish style tiled look for the fountain. I had a go at changing the tree, but any other design ended up far too wide for the space. Any advice or feedback is appreciated. I also have mods of Assembly Square and Palace Cinema completed in bricks (the latter in a full Art Deco style). The LDD files were sadly lost though.
  23. At first when the images for the Imperial Light Cruiser were released at first I was very excited, because I didn't have a Star Destroyer style ship, but once I looked more closely, I was quite disappointed at how it looked. I understand it's a playset first etc, but the biggest issues to me were how wide the front gap was and how high the bridge was. Mixing between the Arquitens and the 546 Cruiser is understandable at this scale, especially if using promo images etc, but the proportions were so off for both. I also wanted to retain the DNA of being a "LEGO playset" and I felt the back half of the ship made poor use of space. The TIE Fighter launcher has been taken out and the front gap is smaller and has trans blue tile details. I've tiled off more of the surface of the cruiser. The canons are now much smaller as they don't have spring shooters. I wanted to better utilise the space in the middle of the ship and make it more accurate so the bridge and "spine" have been completely redesigned. The spine is now 3 studs wide and the bridge is lower. I refuse to use stickers so for the windows I represented them with clips. The ship is already very sturdy and can be "swooshed" by holding the sides so personally I didn't see the need for the handle taking up all the space in the bridge (and making the proportions off). The bridge is held on with 2 studs and inside there is enough space for a couple of figures sitting down. I haven't decided what to do with it but it will either be Dark Trooper storgage or Grogu's cell. I wanted to keep the spirit of being a playset so I tried to find a way to add a Dark Trooper drop mechanism but due to the large wedge tiles making up the base, there was no room for an opening door. You can also see I have tried to angle the ship behind the docking bay a bit more. I used a mix of artistic license between the Arquitens, class 546 and the shape of the set to compromise. With a "few" spare pieces I am a lot happier with the look of the ship. Sam P.S. first Eurobricks thread I've shared so sorry if I have done images wrong
  24. Faster LEGO 42124 Off-Road Buggy. MOD: Get 47% more speed by changing gear ratio from 1,128 to 1,66. VIDEO LINK:
  25. The upcoming 42082 Rough terrain crane has inspired a whole list of possible improvements because I believe that at this scale some cool functions could/should be modeled (in random order): Two stage outriggers, preferably PF controlled Multiple steering modes (minimal 2: 4WS and front wheel steering) Pendular front axle Luffing jib, folding away against the boom Second winch for secondary hook Replace LA’s which lift the boom with an actuator with a longer stroke for bigger range in the boom angle Cosmetic changes to cabin, engine cover and upper structure to resemble real cranes more like Grove or Terex Some of these are probably overly ambitious and I’m not claiming to be able build all these MODs in one single model, but I am curious to see how far I can take this. My first step is to take a look at possible two stage outriggers. So far I’m tinkering in LDD to find mechanisms for the horizontal stage which are rigid enough to support the Crane and compact enough to fit on both ends of the 42082. I think it must be possible to fit the outriggers in a module measuring 5x7x23 studs. The ultimate goal would be to lift the crane from its wheels, but considering the size and weight of the 42082, I would be happy if the outriggers can simply provide actual support. Progress so far: