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Found 300 results

  1. Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it SERIES A Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year
  2. For a few months I've been playing around with redesigning the 10215 UCS Obi-Wan Starfighter (Delta-7 Aethersprite) with a few objectives in mind: Change the colour scheme to match Anakin's Delta-7, as per the Clone Wars animated series... but only in bricks. Improve the canopy to rear cockpit lines so that the curve is smoother and continuous. Have landing gear that can carry the weight of the set Have the option of a droid socket in front of the cockpit. Ideally this would be sized to fit the 30611 R2-D2 polybag build. As is always the case with a Lego design/build, compromises are made between style, colours, parts availability/count, function, build stability, etc. I've redesigned pretty much every aspect of the original design, with only a few core elements left untouched. The wings, engine shrouds, central hull and cockpit have all been changed extensively. I've yet to build this in bricks, so I don't know if what I've chosen so far will work. I do know that some of the pieces I've selected aren't available in the colours I want. Here's a few test renders. I'd be interested to hear anyones thoughts and feedback on how to improve this.
  3. Hello all, I present to you my newest creation : Uni-kitty's Enchanted Castle. Featuring an excellent fruit juice and salad/sandwich bar on the ground floor, with penguin slide and waterfall, pineapples and general craziness. The castle was designed by Uni-kitty one day when he smoked too much of a special plant. He's growing this plan on top of one of his castle turrets. To be a bit more serious, I've combined two of Cloud cuckoos palace, together with the Friends fruit juice bar and also several friends animal packs. What do you think? PS - "too many colours' nu uh it's meant to be crazy :)
  4. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  5. Alright so I own the set 7965 millennium falcon, and I like it alot, although there is a huge amount of improvement needed to make it more movie accurate. When the new UCS millennium falcon was revealed, i was inspired and started work on my modifications. Inspired by this video This is basically the same design as the 7965 but with larger dimensions. I set out to do the same with my Falcon. As I was building, I realized that the set doesnt have a very good front mandible section, so I started redoing the front using ideas from the UCS design. Here is the WIP so far, would love to hear feedback on what should be changed or fixed. I will be posting updates on this thread. millennium falcon by Marcus Holtznagel, on Flickr millennium falcon cockpit 2 by Marcus Holtznagel, on Flickr millennium falcon mandible 2 by Marcus Holtznagel, on Flickr millennium falcon back overhead view' by Marcus Holtznagel, on Flickr millennium falcon mandible 1 by Marcus Holtznagel, on Flickr millennium falcon front thing by Marcus Holtznagel, on Flickr
  6. Hi all, be kind, this is the first time I've actually started a topic here, and shared pics of my lego fumblings. I've been away from lego for 20 years, and then my GF bought me the lego millenium falcon for christmas, and it's totally rekindled my love (for Lego, not the GF, I loved her already...). Like many, I found the S-foils on the most recent T-70 X-wings rather underwhelming. The X-wings in the movie look so cool, aggressive, dynamic, and the new engine pods and the way the wings fold to become one single plane in cruise mode is very slick indeed. The Lego version is significantly less slick in this regard, and this bothered me. As is well documented, the wings don't even meet, let alone combine into one, the lower wing is studs down, which means the ugly plate underside is on show, and the dreaded blue rubber bands, both look out of place at the back of the engine pods, and pull the wings at an angle. I will say that I like the folding mechanism as a play function, and did not want to loose it. So first off, the closed position: When they're closed, there is no gap, no angle difference, and to all intents and purposes, it appears as though it's one single wing, just as it should. And now, open Again, no angle change due to rubber band tension. The bands are still being used, but I found a way to integrate them such that they pull the wings closed as they should, but not unevenly, and within the forward profile of the wings so that they're not obvious. In fact they now look like some kind of power cables on the engine undesides. Here's some close ups: I'll go into more detail on this tomorrow if anyone's interested, but essentially the now studs up lower wings have some 2x1 modified plates with pin loops with pins going into 1x1 technic bricks as the method of attaching them, with one of the pins sticking out for the bands to locate on. The bands then go around the back of another pin that replaced a cream coloured short pin on the body of the ship, then go up inside the upper wing engine where there's one of thes guys for them to hook on to: It has as much tension as the original system, but looks alot slicker, though i will admit it is a bit trickier to put together. the bands also seem to hold the lower wing onto the engine a bit too, which is nice. The rear landing gear is rubbish on the original, and i wanted something that would retract cleanly. The real ship has landing gear that emerges from the slopes between the curved engine and the wing. This seemed impossible to duplicate at this scale, and with the stuff for the new folding mechanism, so did landing gear on the engines too, so i mounted it to the body, at its widest part. It folds up and becomes part of the body curve at the back, which is nice. I apologise for the crappy lighting, again, I'll get better pics if there's interest. I may swap the grey part for black, but I don't have any at the moment. Elsewhere on the ship, I moved the cockpit back one stud, and started playing around reprofiling the nose a little. This is the next area for my attention and is a work in progress. Please feel free to comment, I'm open for any constructive criticism!
  7. Introducing the Ultimate Collector's Series AT-ACT! Since it appears that Lego will not be releasing a version of the vehicle, and MOCs have not exactly captured the scale of it, I have decided to take matters into my own hands. Using Cavegod's AT-AT as a base for the build and a final size, I was able to modify certain sections of the MOC to recreate an AT-ACT! As many of you may know, Cavegod's AT-AT is slightly too big for minifigure scale, however math has shown that this size is in fact minifigure scale for an AT-ACT! With a redesigned head, side modifications, and technic legs, this MOC surely takes the original design and reinvents it into a behemoth from the battle of Scarif. The final MOC measures 6,882 bricks in quantity and matches up in size with Cavegod's AT-AT. (High Quality) Pictures are still in development for a finished build of the MOC, but I am still willing to share what I currently have with the community. I have completed a 345 page instruction manual for this MOC, and have prepared to share that with AFOLs. The manual comes in a bundle with the LDD files and a parts list for the MOC. Since the manual is currently 99% done and not final (Just need to put in the pictures), anyone who receives a copy of the bundle will receive a new copy of the manual when the front cover picture is put in. All I ask in return for the bundle is $35 as a contribution toward all of the work that went into the final product. If you are interested in receiving a manual, please contact me at and I will give you the necessary information to receive your own copy. Here are some screenshots from the manual:
  8. Advanced build from 60154 - Bus

    So... I finished my modification of the bus from 60154. I'm really happy with it. It's based off of an Optare Versa which is a really common type of bus in the north of England. It's 8-studs wide which is a little bigger than I wanted it to be, but given the parts usage was unavoidable. The entire front is built upside down and held in with friction, but seeing as this is a static display model I'm okay with that. I tried a few different ways to change the direction of the studs and connect it but none of them worked out with the space and alignment that I have. It's got a full, though simplistic, interior. The original set basically had nothing inside of it, so this is a huge step up in my mind. It seats 11 mini-figs and one driver. Would love some thoughts and any suggestions for improvements that people might have.
  9. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file: And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  10. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  11. Hello, I start this topic to share with all my work with Lego : MOD MOC Reproducing your MOC Bargain on buying/selling The Lego convention I participated on To begin, please find a MOD of the mystery machine. I modified this nice and gentle van into a Carmaggedon version : I like the thumbler tyres, they fit very well to the Mystery Machine ! Hope you enjoy
  12. Hello everybody, I didn't notice yet any MOD page of the Volvo EW160 excavator. I find this a really good set and as I'm an excavator lover, I couldn't resist to add a few modifications. I have already done 2- 3 and I have others in my mind. Here are the first ones I took away the cab elevating mechanism. I find the excavator better proportioned this way. It looks a lot more like the real machine and IMHO also a lot nicer. The cab was in the original model too much forward and got in the way of good playability. I still have to get rid of the grey beam behind the cab. I also put a swivel and turning mechanism on the grab, which also looks better and approaches the looks of the real machine. The mods I'm planning is to arrange the hoses on the boom and add rigid hoses.
  13. Hi! Since this is my first post on Eurobricks a small introduction would be desirable. As a huge Star Wars collector I have followed the posts on this forum for about 6 months now. I recently decided I wanted to fix all my vehicles to minfigure scale (hard to determine). There were a lot of great designs of certain starfighters and walkers out there already so I decided to take those as a starting point. Mentioning Psiaki's X-Wing, Raskolnikov his AT-AT and Larry Lars' Snowspeeder! The new Millenium Falcon uses lots of olive green, dark tan and dark red to make it appear battle-worn and rusty. It inspired me to make all my models more ''universe accurate''. Anyway, I started off with the Snowspeeders I had built already and just went ahead and tweaked / replaced parts to my taste. You can expect every major vehicle from the Original Trilogy (including Rogue One) to be featured here in the next few months. Shall I update this topic or create individual topics for each of those? I was thinking about starting a ''Complete Minifigure Scale Guide for Star Wars'' to bundle all of those designs, since I found lots of posts mentioning a few official LEGO sets that are minifigure scale but none of them listed all of the amazing minifigure scale models designed by the community. Sorry for the long introduction, I had to go in big! Enjoy and thanks for your input!
  14. [MOD] 9500 Sith Fury

    Hey guys! I posted this a week or two ago over at the Star Wars Lego subreddit, and figured I'd post it here for my first posted topic! I decided to modify my Sith Fury, and I found @billyamy's post before photobucket held it for ransom and stole a bunch from it took inspiration from it. Let me know what you think, criticism is always welcome! I'm pretty freshly out of my dark ages, so there are a lot of parts and building techniques that are still new to me. Not seen is a bunch of structural changes I did to the interior, filling holes and generally reinforcing the model. The pictures aren't amazing, but I hope they're okay! The first mod I did was to fill in the interior of the wings with a plate and some light greebles. Seeing inside of the wings really bugged me in the stock model, I wish Lego had done something to fill it in. Next was to replace the flick-fire missiles with black telescope parts on a SNOT bracket, with a TIE wing circle tile for detail. I don't really like flick-fires, and I don't need the play feature, so out they go. I also switched the old cockpit with one of the new TIE cockpits. Not exactly canon, but I like it better! I also changed the top, but there'll be more photos of it later. Here's a view of the ship from the front. You can see the (slightly out of focus) black slopes covering trans-red plates on the tips of the wings, which I added for fun, but later found out that the in-universe ship has something similar! Here's that top view I was talking about. I'm not super thrilled about the tiles and slopes around the cockpit, but it's what I settled on. Ideas are appreciated! You can also see that I've replaced the click hinge portions over the cockpit and troop area, I don't really need to get into those areas and I like them better covered with plates and greebling. The former troop area is now a reactor area, so I added vents and an engine block above that area. However, I feel like there's too much black. Next is a cockpit interior shot! I've added some joysticks and some printed panels, and you can see at the top is a mudguard piece. I copied this from @Bricks Feeder's amazing TIE Advanced Prototype post, where he used it right on top of his TIE windshield. I have some issues with the offset of my windshield here, since I can't make it sit in deep enough... If you guys have ideas on how to fix this, I'm all ears. Anyway, the mudguard lets it sit slightly more evenly on the part where it touches the ship. Next is the back, where I took a lot of direction from @billyamy again. I realize it doesn't look nearly as nice as theirs, nor as nice with the wings folded out, but it lets in more light. I added octagon modified plates with clip plates around the engines to give more detail to the nacelles, and some slopes, vents, and assorted greebles around the engines as well. Here's a not-so-great shot of the technic mechanism that @billyamy used in their post to open up the back of the ship. I think it's brilliant and blends in much better with the ship Instead of troops, you get this! It's a smashed-together engine/reactor thing. I looked around and didn't find many ideas, so I cobbled it together. What dyou guys think? It's a mess of trans red studs, some curved slopes, some vent pieces, and some gumption. That's it for my first topic! I hope you guys like it, let me know if there are more photos that you want.
  15. [MOD] B/SF-17 Heavy Bomber

    Hi ! Here's a few mods I've made to 75188 Resistance Bomber in the last few days. I first changed the engines to blue (I swear it seems like blue and orange are ALWAYS reversed on Star Wars vehicles!) I'm not a big fan of stud shooters in most contexts, so I switched the rear cannons out for display ones. I also wanted them to rotate together, which took some figuring out. I couldn't find a way to use friction pins to hold both cannons so I put another axle in with a little gear system like in Slave 1. I went through a few different iterations but this was the most compact solution I could find. I transferred the stickers in the bubble canopies to clear 2x2 slopes, and switched the brackets and tiles for a little more visibility. Shorter wings to be a little more in proportion. The interior was already great, but I tiled over the floor and added a weapons rack. I added a small ladder up to the gunner position and added in some more details and stickered controls by the gunner's hands. You can't really see them in this picture, though. The exterior of the turret is mostly the same but it was a great design to start with! For the cockpit I used a bunch of stickered elements from 75105 (getting slowly disassembled in preparation for the big one!) Snap is piloting for the moment, until we find out what the whole crew will be (probably not a bunch of X-wing pilots !) The rest of the changes are just minor cosmetics all over the hull, but I've already made this too long so here's just two more pictures. I didn't capture everything, of course ! This is a really great set! It looks beautiful and is so much fun. As an AFOL I tend to just display things but it's impossible not to fly this around the room ! Thank you :^)
  16. Hello everybody! A long time ago I got my 41999 and decided to turn the hull back to the car that it was initially - a classic American muscle car. Initially it was just the same car with a lower chassis, but I preferred to make it more authentic and more detailed MOD (and a bit MOC  ) saving as much as possible original solutions and parts. There were a lot of speculations of the exact model (41999-question), but I like Dodge Charger R/T 2nd generation ('68-70), so it's the final target and magic has been started... First of all, I started with modifications of 41999 Crawler. It's a great model and I was just happy to see how Egor turned the car shapes into the curved panels, but Boss Crawler was too high, so lowered the chassis by 4 studs (removing the bottom section with Servo and two 5x7 frames), added a front axle with an independent suspension and a rear live axle. Both of them uses a shorter shock absorbers, meanwhile the front axles has a torsion suspension in the real live. I've made a draft of it and will add to the model some later... So, the result is following: v1. The chassis. Muscle Car 41999 MOC v1 Chassis.lxf v1. A road version. Muscle Car 41999 MOC v1 Road.lxf I's a default hull with some minor visual modifications, mounted on a lower chassis. However it's still too high, in my opinion. v1. An off-road version. Muscle Car 41999 MOC v1 Offroad.lxf I liked @efferman's Station Wagon and @NOS_Dylan's modification, that better meets a lower chassis. v2. A major modification. And finally the better version that I've made so far: even more lower than version 1, wider by 2L and now has a Big Block - fake V8 engine. To be continued...
  17. Ever since I got the HE I started considering doubling up as temptingly shown on the back of the box. The train just doesn't look quite right running with an open passenger carriage back end. As my train room (or as my girlfriend prefers; our 'study') is pretty small I was worried about it being rather long though, and spending it's entire time turning corners in a not very 'express' fashion. However, when I saw that people were charging almost 70GBP on ebay for just the power car, I decided it would be far more cost effective to buy a second set and perhaps sell off the middle two passenger carriages- 4 was just too long and I didn't like the non-Jacob's join in the middle. But 2 cars looked equally silly so I set out for 3. First step was to modify the centre car undercarriage to stretch the distance between two Jacob's bogies: However something still didn't seem right! The doors- the middle car and hence the train was not symmetrical. But now having two full sticker sets and one donor car I could remedy that: For this I had to dig in the spares box. To get the windows in I had to borrow 2x technic 1x1 brick with hole to replace the 1x1 with headlight holder on side so that the snot would not obstuct the doors at one end. Then I had to borrow some black 6xn plates to make the removable roof segment (the originals were too long): I was pretty happy with the result overall, long enough for the feel of a sleek express, short enough to fit in my house, and even with a single PF motor, still fast enough to scare the cat! Comments? Suggestions? Anyone else doubled up their HE? A quick search of the forums suggests from your signature blocks and discussions of doubling the no of motors suggests yes but I found no pics or descriptions.
  18. Hello people, as i have seen some topics made by some members were they share their creations, modifications and ideas, i thought it was a good idea to start my own topic about that, this way i can avoid filling other topics with too many information by saving all that information here and just posting small texts in those other topics. To start, i would like to share some creations which i worked on: Model Team Nissan Frontier. This is one of my oldest models, i made it even before i knew about Eurobricks, and i would like to share it with you because you might like it or modified it: This model features front independent suspension, rear leaf spring suspension using 5.5 axles, HOG steering, working doors, bonnet and tailgate, 5 seats and a towing hitch; its very possible that some parts are with wrong colors or there could be outdated building techniques, but i think that is not too bad for one of my first LDD models (i am no sure, but if i have enough time and inspiration i could make it in real Technic parts), The LXF: Frontier.lxf. Model Team Paramount Group Marauder MRAP. Again, one of my oldest models, it is made at a pretty small scale but it could still be considered as "model team" (i think), it has pendular suspension in both axles which are damped by cross-axles which act as leaf springs, it has HOG steering, working winch and doors, a spare tire and 2 turrets that can be mounted on the roof: The LXF: Group Marauder.lxf Technic Unimog U500 Long Chassis (I have called it UNI-MOC) You might have seen it in the latest posts at 8110´s Mods topic ( ), it is a 64 studs long and 24 studs wide model which i started to make because the modifications in the 8110 got to a too high level and i wasn´t satisfied with the whole model, i created this new model to hold all of my wanted functions and details, this model has some designs from other builders: Madoca´s Tatra 2-speeds gearbox (slightly modified to fit in this new chassis), Efferman´s planetary rims, a modified version of Didumos knob gear driven axle and a 3-side dumping system and dropping sides inspired by Kumbbl´s modifications, it was also made by some help and inspiration by Pat-Ard: This Unimog has 4 M-Motors, 2 L-Motors, 2 XL-Motors, 3 IR RC Receivers, 2 AAA Battery Boxes and 3 PF Switches (brick-built with ugly colors), why so many motors? well, as you might know, the 8110 had only one M-Motor inside it, which was meant to drive the 3 main functions of the set (front PTO, rear PTO and the pneumatic pump) the problem was that the functions couldn't be used simultaneously, you couldn't power front and rear PTO´s at the same time or with the pneumatic pump and because this system uses a gearbox and axles to engage and transmit the power to the different parts, this results in a lot of friction and power losing (other of the reasons of why i started this MOC), other thing that bother me about the 8110 was the proportions of it, it was very tall with lifted wide axles, but very thin cab and bed which made it look silly, the chassis had no space for all the functions that i wanted, i couldn't place enough motors or functions on it, and the axles were another problem, the steering pivot and angle was a disappointing, the tires couldn't steer too much with the half pins, and if you removed them, the mudguards and the surrounding elements needed to be placed far away from the tires to avoid them from colliding, these are few of the reasons of why i started to make my own version of this UGN class of Unimog (which are U300, U400 and U500). Some of the good features of this model are: Improved steering pivot (2 studs closer to the wheels compared to standard portal hubs) Wheels and portal hubs can handle more torque without jamming parts The axles are more compact (less tall), so the chassis can move even lower for a more realistic performance Front steering by L-Motor Rear steering (By M-Motor) with the same axle design as the front one Anti-roll bars in both axles, which help a lot to handle with weight and give a lot of stability, and they can be easily removed for serious offroading Remotely shifted 2-speeds gearbox by M-Motor Directly driven pneumatic pump (L-Motor) and PTO´s (M-Motors) for less power losing 3-side tipping 37 studs long 23 studs wide dump bed with dropping sides using a V2 large pneumatic cylinder Drive by 2 XL-Motors So, these are some of my models, i hope you like them, and i hope to upload more of them, i will try to do my best with all them, let me know what you think about this topic and the models, and any suggestion is well received Thanks.
  19. One thing that bothers me is that when the hatch fully opens, I have to turn the switch back to neutral position, or else the fans will stop spinning. So in step 14, I replace the clutch gear with the normal 24z gear: while in step 20 I use two clutch gears instead. I tested this out and found out that the clutch gear on the wheel retraction side was too weak that it slips before moving the wheel. The clutch gear on the VTOL side does slip too just not as often. So totally NOT recommend this MOD.
  20. I tried to recreate the bus from 10259 and then thought it would be neat to also have a different livery, somewhat more like the English busses. And here is the render of the 'original' version. And here they are together. The drivers seem to have a casual chat about the weather road conditions or some other driver related thing :). Kudos to msx80 for his render tool! Works perfect on macOS Sierra, I used it to render the images. In here I have made some comments on what parts are different from 10259. I needed to guess for some parts, but I came quite close I think.
  21. This started out as a 9493 that I picked up second hand, but complete. I was surprised how crude it looked after more recent sets, so I began tweaking it here and there, and then it just sort of got out of hand, and I don't think there are two bricks of the original set still in their original configuration! I'm not a quick MOCer by any standards, I tend to come back to things and tweak a bit, rummage through the spares, get inspired by others builds etc. There are plenty of things I could have done for greater accuracy, but I wanted it to be a tough build, and whilst there are techniques that would allow the shaping to be more screen accurate, they tend to be quite fragile, which is a compromise I was unwilling to make. Anyways, on with the pics The wings open and close in much the same way as in the originally set, though much of the mechanism has been messed about with and changed. The knob for opening has been relocated to the rear, and the rubber bands have been made a little more discrete, though I think if any further development on this happens, i may ditch it and revert to the wing mechanism used by many other x-wing MOCs. Tried to get the shaping on the underside as close as possible without it being too fragile, I think the shape is ok, but the slope section could do with being a little more secure. It doesn't fall off, but it's only connected at the rear. The gap in the underside is to accept the stand which is designed to hold the ship at an angle so it looks a little more dynamic. So yeah, it's not finished, I keep doing things to it when I find different or better solutions to things. I feel the rear of the fuselage might be a stud too long, so that's something I might look into. The greebling could be more accurate, but that's not a major worry. I realise the shaping is a little more rounded than some, but it's also a little less "studdy" too. I'd like to incorporate some landing gear but at this point I wanted to make sure it looked right, and the stand makes gear less vital for display. Overall I'm quite happy with it, but I'm also open for suggestions on improvements.
  22. This gunship is owned by Snake, former member of the Black Hole Gang. The ship is named the Atlantis II and is used by Snake as his personal transport in his new line of work. Snake became a member of the resistance after the demise of the Black Hole Gang and the destruction of his species home planet by the Space Police IV forces into a radioactive wasteland.\ In reality, the model the ship is a heavily modified Bounty Hunter Assault Gunship (set number 7930.) This ship features six guns, a ton of cargo space and rotating engine for flight or landing modes. The cockpit is also accessible via a roof hatch. The ship in flight mode, with the engine pods rotated 90 degrees. The rear of the ship, with the cargo area access hatch. The opening cockpit features a seat for the pilot figure. Two of this part go on either side of the cockpit where the 2 x 2 tiles in yellow are. The sides of the ship open up for easier access to the inside. The pilot of the ship, Snake. Not much is known about him, except he was a member of the Black Hole Gang and his home-world no longer is safe to travel to. The is available to download here. I'm thinking about buying this at the same time as my futuristic house I uploaded, as the same Brick Link seller has most of the parts I don't already have in real life. As usual Comments, Questions, & Complaints are always welcome!
  23. (MOD) 75155 U-Wing

    Excited to share my first mod on a set; the U-Wing! It's small compared to other efforts, but I'm just getting started. I'll also have a video if I'm allowed to share that. Anyway, I've added a second pilot seat, removed unnecessary technic to allow more space in the transport, and extended the wings from 40 studs long to 44 studs long. Then additional greebling, replaced stud shooters, and changed the rear top behind the cockpit to remove the pop open feature and add detail. I would love to hear thoughts and feedback! Thanks! Removed the cockpit pop open play feature to add detail, greebling and accuracy. Since I wasn't changing the base hull of the ship, I took inspiration from the Republic Gunship to add a second pilot seat. Another view of the two pilots. The additional pilot now "floats" in the lower window. A very simple dark gray plank with a slope piece for flare allows a second pilot without altering the width of the set. Underside view of the transport window showing additional plank for second pilot. Larger view of underside. The transport with the second pilot fitted on; stud shooters have been removing, now acting as weapon racks, and technic poles have been removed to free up some space. After removing the technic bar a simple detail piece from the Millennium Falcon was placed in the center. Closer view of the pilot The original printed tile was placed on a flat piece to free up space, and two additional yokes were added. An upright view of the yokes. ___________________________________ May the Force be with you!
  24. Hello everybody and let me present my version of a modified 42005 Monster Truck. It was my second set after my "dark age", that I've bought many years ago, after 42029 as supplementary set with a lot of useful pieces and planned to use for a live axle suspension and some other features for 42029 model. However, I liked the set as a simple and functional model and re-assembled it several times. Here is the model and later I'll provide the all details: A month ago, when I tired of infinite attempts to turn 41999 into a Muscle Car (the chassis isn't rigid enough, but I already did a great progress and hopefully will share it once) I returned to this model and set the task to motorize it adding 4WD, but keeping 4 wheels steering and current suspension (keep the original construction as possible as I can). First, I've analyzed the all existing attempts that I could find over EB, Rebrickable and YouTube and it happens that there were several MODs by different authors: First of all, it's @Splat’s MOD with all steered and driven axles (see topic here). I see no reason to duplicate its description, so let me just note that he saved the necessary features with adding Servo + L-Motor mounted under the hood and trunk. The chassis configuration is 4x4/4 or 4WD-4WS. It’s the best motorized model, I think, because of amazing simplicity and performance, but unfortunately it has a kind of “articulated” steering that isn't real, so was trying to made a "real" 4WD-4WS version, using this model as reference. Another one is Jan Dvorak’s (is he on EB?) MOD with all original features supplemented by on-axle L-Motor that drives the rear wheels and Servo for the 4WS. He added an additional 5X7 frame with differential that provided a necessary rigidness. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or RWD-4WS. Personally I don't like such a long axle sub-frame. However I've found a good idea of vertical gears inside the central shaft. The third one is @codefox421's MOD, inspired by Splat’s version, with the original front axle and non-steered custom rear axle with on-axle L-Motor. His custom rear axle, based on two portal hubs, is a quite compact and simple, but has no steering. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. It looks trial-ready with the portal hubs, but it's nearly impossible to add the steering here, so I got nothing from this model. An unusual @Tommy Styrvoky's MOD with an interesting feature: he modified the front axle, not the rear one, by adding a solid drivetrain with worm gear and on-axle M-Motor, so result is a front-wheels driven Monster Truck with oversized fake engine. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or FWD-4WS. Very aggressive! WRRRRR Daniel Wirasantosa’s (is he on EB?) MOD that differs from the previous ones by using of chassis-mounted L-Motor that drives the rear axle (that has a bit low ground clearance due to the 5x7 frame) and, moreover, he used a custom steering shaft that comes directly to the steering rack. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. Starting this version, I got a more or less defined plan: 4WD with off-axle (chassis-mounted) L-Motor that drives the both axles through the existing “drivetrain” (former steering shaft) and the off-axle Servo that steers the both axles through the custom steering shaft above the driveshaft. There were two more versions: Michael M’s stretched one and LEGOTechnic360’s solid-chassis version with no suspension, but they didn't help me with any new ideas. Nothing personal, guys, if you're reading it, I just had a full and consistent vision of my further MOD: Hull - the original with no changes. Axles geometry - original. I tried to save the all things like the wheels location, suspension mounting points, ground clearance, steering angles (that are even bigger a bit now)… And I still can't believe that made it, after a thousand tries! Suspension - original, with no changes. However I put the hard shock absorbers in the rear end, as the default ones were too weak to keep the BuWizz battery. Wheels - original. I decided to keep the original wheels and tires with no giant crawler ones or even Claas, that are too big even for a Monster Truck. Frame - mostly original, but possibly modified since it will have an L-Motor and Servo mounted above the axles (right under the cargo platform and hood). Drivetrain - it must be the ex-steering shaft that comes through the cardans inside the "big" ball joints to the both axles, connected to the L-Motor via the set of normal and clutch gears. Steering - for the all wheels, like in the original model, but the steering shaft comes above the drive shaft, in parallel with it and can slide a bit while the suspension moves. Enough the words...The most interesting part starts here. Following my plan, the bigger challenge was to modify the original axles - I tried several options, even trial-like with solid axles, but 4WS provides an amazing maneuverability due to big steering angles, so axle diffs are likely vital for such model (solid axles were making a permanent clicking noise in the transmission even with motor stalling sometimes) and I decided to make a fast Monster truck, not a slow crawler with a high torque. The drive train. There you can see how I did it: L-Motor rotates a set of 8T and 16T normal and clutch (required for the steering shaft) gears and then the main horizontal shaft, that were used for steering in the original model. After that the shaft rotates the 12T double bevel gears (ex-pinon gears from the original model), than 20T gears below, single-bevel 20T and the differentials. As result, the gearing ratio is 1:1.667 X 1:1.4 = 1.2334, and provides about ~100 RPM with 15.12 torque. The wheels connected by a wheel hubs, since I wasn't able to use the universal and CV joints with affordable steering angles, wheels position (I kept exactly the same position as in 42005) and rigidness. The steering. Here you can see the servo (mounted upside down in order to provide more space for the battery block above, steering shaft that goes above the driveshaft, 12T gears (pinions) and 13L racks joined to the wheel hubs. In order to allow the suspension travel, the gears has 1/2L offset from the racks and slides together with the shafts along the mounting points when the suspension compresses. It's a fully legal, but still allowed in LDD and works like a charm! The only mistake that the hubs must be from Claas, but they aren't presented in LDD unfortunately: Just to explain why I used the clutch gears (but with no gearbox actually, ha-ha ), the drive and steering systems intersects so hard, so followed TLG way and used the same solution that they did in the official models (42029, for example) - passed the one through the other. Green is a drive subsystem, blue - steering. Other images, the story of a modified hull (by Phil), LDD file and instruction in PDF are coming soon...
  25. Hello, I modded the Lego Technic 42041 Race truck. Here are the modifications : Full black color with grey pin's New exhaust Trucks wheels (2 in the front and 4 in the back with a modify rear axle) French flag on the front intercooler Yellow and red colore on the back intercooler (in reference to the Wroclaw's speedway club) Differents curved 3x11 panels on side One stud lowered trailer attached Some pic's