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Found 347 results

  1. PriorMarcus

    My Hulkbuster UCS MOD

    Here's my MOD of the Hulkbuster UCS set. Hope you all like.
  2. "In brightest day, in blackest night, No evil shall escape my sight. Let those who worship evil's might Beware my power Green Lantern's light!" After seeing the new lantern piece, I thought to myself "What's stopping me from putting different colours in the lantern?" Nothing is. Then that's where the lightbulb lit up like fireworks on 4th of July: Green Lantern's Lantern! I like the lantern from the 2015 set; the designers did very god work with the old lantern considering the scale and the pieces they had available back in 2015. However, with the addition of the new piece I feel it looks a better scale than 2015. Honest opinions are appreciated and welcome. Expect to see some more photos soon
  3. MODification of one of my favorite sets, 10027 Train Engine Shed. Probably designed 6 years ago and only slightly upgraded since Rendering from LEGO Digital Designer using Bluerender.
  4. Hello, Madoka's JEEP Wrangler for me is most beautiful JEEP build from LEGO ever. That was a love from the first sight. And it is also fit my favourite scale - 15 stud wide body, like my Toyotas. Since I saw it - I want it on my shelve. Comparing to Madoka, who's every new model is a Challenge and he never use previous model's elements (no matter body design or internal structure of chassis), I am quite conservative. My every next model is evolution of previous if talk about chassis. Madoka's JEEP Wrangler chassis is awesome, but I prefer my own with springs, links and gear rack steering. So I stretched his Jeep from 3 door version to 5 door, added rear seats with foldable backs. Put it on the Hilux chassis with minor changes and that's my "own" JEEP. specs - Driving - XL motor - Steering - Servo motor - Body removable from chassis - Openable doors - Removable 2 section hardtop roof - Suspension on both live axles - 4x4 transmission - LED lights - Smart Brick for RC with iPhone / ДУ через Sbrick - 1 stud lift possibility - Winch is fake (like all beautiful things in modern world:)) The hardest part for me was rear doors. That sounds funny, but making them tapered with the right angle was impossible using standart angle connectors. So I have to cheat and use LEGO System bricks and inverted slopes. No, I never miss this bricks while playing Jeep, but this element is still bothering me. May be someone could offer better design - I will be glad to use your idea. Front axle is little bit long, shifted forward may be half or one stud, than should be. But this was done to fit larger wheels, because stock wheeled JEEP Wrangler is the worst looking offorader in the world, especially long wheelbase version I also left possibility for body and chassis to be connected on two ways: standart and 1 stud lifted. This is lifted verison with 74 mm tires from RC4WD Jeep is modular like real model with removable doors and 2-section roof, thanks Madoka for design. Front lights are still LED ready. Expeditional stuff increases the weight of the model, but this is Jeep's calling to be like that. Roll cage, roof rack, spare wheel holder, baggage and cans, fake winch, extra lights, snorkel and extendable rain/sun tent. With minor changes in the axles, model can stand on RC 1:10 tires that have wide variety to choose from And my favourite: Buggy Mode with RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ tires about 81 mm diameter. And this is not just shelve model, because Jeep without roof and doors is really light. If you put Buwizz in it - you will have a lot of fun with it ;) Many more photos here My advice to novice builders: don't hold your sets under the dust on shelve, and don't try to build your own model from scratch. Modifiying sets and models of other designers is the easiest way to increase your skills. Don't afraid, just try:) You can also see some other wheels variations in the next video. And of course, test drive in different conditions, including rocks, mud and water. Have a nice time;) How it performs with BUWIZZ? Check it out p.s. You can also watch review of Madoka's model. TURN ON SUBTITILES. or original video Jeep Wrangler (red) designed by Madoka
  5. The upcoming 42082 Rough terrain crane has inspired a whole list of possible improvements because I believe that at this scale some cool functions could/should be modeled (in random order): Two stage outriggers, preferably PF controlled Multiple steering modes (minimal 2: 4WS and front wheel steering) Pendular front axle Luffing jib, folding away against the boom Second winch for secondary hook Replace LA’s which lift the boom with an actuator with a longer stroke for bigger range in the boom angle Cosmetic changes to cabin, engine cover and upper structure to resemble real cranes more like Grove or Terex Some of these are probably overly ambitious and I’m not claiming to be able build all these MODs in one single model, but I am curious to see how far I can take this. My first step is to take a look at possible two stage outriggers. So far I’m tinkering in LDD to find mechanisms for the horizontal stage which are rigid enough to support the Crane and compact enough to fit on both ends of the 42082. I think it must be possible to fit the outriggers in a module measuring 5x7x23 studs. The ultimate goal would be to lift the crane from its wheels, but considering the size and weight of the 42082, I would be happy if the outriggers can simply provide actual support. Progress so far:
  6. LegoModularFan

    Making Eurobricks More Active

    Hi everyone, I actually have been considering to create this topic for two-three months but after noticing that we didn't have the Expand the Winter Village Contest VIII yesterday (I wasn't aware of that before), I thought it was time to create this topic. Without further ado, let me jump into it. I see that the level of activity on EB is lower than it was before. For example, the number of active members seemed to be higher; the interaction between members and also between staff and members looked more intense, more amusing and interesting discussions were going on, and people were having more fun (such as on titles). If I'm wrong and if EB is a forum that is still active as it used to be, I believe, in any case, it deserves to grow - with even more AFOLs (I do understand that every AFOL may not want/don't have time to interact but they can come only to show their MOCs). So I feel it's just the right time to take action. So, does anyone else feel the way I do and does anyone has any suggestions? Staff, I know this may a sensitive subject and you may not be ok with regular members interlope and I absolutely understand that. I just would like to help in anyway I (and other members) can, I hope you'll not be offended. I really think all the forum needs to stand together. Many thanks to all, the staff and members, for your attention, consideration and support. (@Jipay, @Bonaparte, @Hinckley, @Siegfried, @Shadows, @Rick, @Jim, @Bob De Quatre, @WhiteFang, @Fugazi, @Captain Nemo, @Clone OPatra, @CorneliusMurdock, @Brickdoctor, @Stash2Sixx, @Ecclesiastes, @ZCerberus, @Peppermint_M, @Mister Phes, @Phred, @Pandora, @JopieK, @Milan, @VBBN, @Rufus, @LuxorV, @Superkalle, @Dragonator and @CopMike) My apologies for shout-outs to each of you but I just want to draw your attention. Sincerely, LegoModularFan
  7. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  8. Hello, I start this topic to share with all my work with Lego : MOD MOC Reproducing your MOC Bargain on buying/selling The Lego convention I participated on To begin, please find a MOD of the mystery machine. I modified this nice and gentle van into a Carmaggedon version : I like the thumbler tyres, they fit very well to the Mystery Machine ! Hope you enjoy
  9. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  10. Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J SERIES K SERIES L --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail Leaflet: Box distribution (60 minifigures) So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year
  11. TheBrickLord

    Justice League Flying Fox Moc/Mod

    After seeing images of the Flying Fox, as seen in the upcoming Justice League film, I was very excited to see what Lego's rendition of it would look like. Sadly, I was somewhat disappointed. The build is sturdy, which is a great thing, however, it was also quite ugly and inaccurate. I picked the set up after my birthday, and was pleasantly surprised. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Steppenwolf's head and torso molds are accurate and intricately detailed, and the Flying Fox itself was surprisingly fun to build. As soon as I built it, I knew I would modify it. I have already modified the Batmobile and Steppenwolf, and they look great. So, I would like advice for the Flying Fox. I know there aren't many pictures of it, but the overall design has been revealed. Hopefully we will get some great shots of it during the movie, but we do have a few images. So, here's what I want to build: About 1.5 to 2 times bigger than the original set A spacious and large interior, with room for the Batmobile and a command center for the League A lever-activated feature (ideally using a rubber band) that will launch the Batmobile out of the Fox A small 2nd floor command center that hangs above the Batmobile, with computers and a chair Front and back hatches that can open easily, but can be held in place A cockpit that opens up with room for most of the League Wings (see below) with spring loaded shooters, and large engines Lots of angles to make it look interesting I have an excess amount of black pieces, so I don't have many limitations for building. Any suggestions would be amazing! Thanks for your time!
  12. Yes, it's an airplane that can drift! (or rather do doughnuts) But first, I think the video is the best introduction: Cool, isn't it? I was actually very surprised how well it worked when I first tested it - especially considering how bad my previous MODs were.. (in fact, it's probably the only RC set MOD that I've done that worked at all!) It was quite a challenge to fit all the electrics in such a small body, and was actually the main reason why I only kept one of the original functions... Features: Steering - powered by PF servo. Drive - geared down 3:5 from fast output of buggy motor. Motorized wings (not RC) - powered by PF M-motor. Easy to remove battery box - if not using rechargeable battery. Other Specs: Weight: 650g (with rechargeable battery) Original functions kept: 1 (out of 3) Theoretical top speed: 14km/h (at least) Links: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pTW9vclg0c Bricksafe: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/mocbuild101/9394-rc-dragster-mod Contest voting: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/162664-ams-2-dragify-your-set-voting More photos: Enjoy! And don't forget to vote!
  13. Well, i was proud of it at the time, but i feel now that my ISD isn't sufficient enough. Numerous add ons and additions have made the model a bit unstable and the inaccuracies need to be addressed. The main issue however is the disproportional build! The bridge is too large and wide compared to the rest of the body, and it lacks the correct amount of hangers and indents in the panels. This is all a result of me following along the structure of set 6211, which focused on an interior, messing up the proportions. I talk about it in the original post: Now however i start from scratch, and you guys get to follow on and give out suggestions! It starts now with the gathering of extra parts and deconstructing the original destroyer. The plan is to make it bigger, more sturdy and more accurate. Got to gather up all available reference material for this beast... Last photo of it intact. Major sections now removed. I plan to keep the bridge the same, perhaps with some slight corrections. However the rest needs to be broken up and sorted... Now people can see the frame of the build, and the messy interior...
  14. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  15. Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've had the clips to make this video for 2 months now, but not enough time to edit. Anyhow, with that said, here's what I have done. I have rebuilt both of the rear axles so they can be driven by 2 L-Motors, and rebuilt the front axle so that it can be steered by a servo, and still be able to fit an engine and have room in the cab for other motors. I also rebuilt the front of the truck since it seemed too sparse to me, but I've left the rest of the truck (besides some of the internals) original. I decided I only wanted to use a single Sbrick, and I had only one port left, since there was already an M-Motor in the model to drive the functions connected to the distribution gearbox, so I built a custom sequential shifter that I could fit in the cab, and access the axles of the changeover catches in the gearbox, and thus shift through the functions sequentially. This is done with one M-Motor. All of the internal mechanics of the gearbox were left stock, besides the elimination of any white 24 tooth clutch gears. I did not change the rest of the model that much, though I did think having an inline-4 seemed kind of lame, so I put in a V8 instead. i will not release any instructions due to the extense of the modifications. Please enjoy the video and photos below, and feel free to leave a reply!
  16. One thing that bothers me is that when the hatch fully opens, I have to turn the switch back to neutral position, or else the fans will stop spinning. So in step 14, I replace the clutch gear with the normal 24z gear: while in step 20 I use two clutch gears instead. I tested this out and found out that the clutch gear on the wheel retraction side was too weak that it slips before moving the wheel. The clutch gear on the VTOL side does slip too just not as often. So totally NOT recommend this MOD.
  17. After getting an almost complete MTT 7662 set, I started building and as some bricks were missing, I also started modifying. It is a very nice set, with a nice size. It has become a bit obsolete by today's construction standards but it remains impressive. I thus decided to slightly improve it and remove a few other details that were buggering me. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr I decided to eradicate apparent studs and make this MTT stud-less. I wanted also to improve the bottom part of the transport as well as the various opening panels. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr Details have been added here and there as a kind of subtle greebling. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr The rear upper side has been rounded and more in line with the source material. The ending result is more massive. The front side also got a new lifting and some colouring alignment. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr The rear side is probably my favourite part. A detailed bumper highlights the model, the opening hatch is more realistic and detailed. Curves have been slightly tiles, smoothed and/or underlines. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr Of course, I made sure that all play features were maintained. Everything can be opened as before but when closing the panels, gaps have been minimised. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr And as a last picture, here is a field picture with my 7662 flanked by the more recent 75058 version. MTT in the field by Veynom, on Flickr I find it pretty as a lorry. :)
  18. Well I finally unearthed the old girl from my east coast repository (my brother’s house) and yes by the yellowing of the white, you can tell she has been displayed for a few years on my shelf. I built this around 2000, but I only know this by the use of the bent studless liftarms that I had just gotten when I built her, and those came out in 2000. Here is the list of my modifications/functions. See my Flickr pages for lots more photos and close ups. I didn’t have time to take any video. Electric proportional 4 wheel power steering Electric drop top convertible - operated by switch on dashboard Electric micro motor controlled spoiler- operated by switch on dashboard Pneumatic ride height adjustment- from switch in center console utilizing: Front - shock mount point adjusted to maximize suspension travel Rear - pneumatic spring compression to maximize traction Opening doors with internal and external handle/latch Supercharger - belt driven Intercoolers Working brake pedal and brake lights ( no real brakes ) Fiber optic ignition with real timing (simple firing order) Improved body styling and stretched wheelbase. Only original function lost was HOG steering, but since the steering wheel was now proportionally electric controlled, you could steer and push from the steering wheel with no problem with the top down. Hope you enjoy! Joke mode on- And just a note, I am not really looking for any criticism unless you have been doing this since 2000 or 2001 and can remember having to try and add all these features and functions using what we had at the time. Joke mode off-
  19. Redimus

    Modified Emerald Night

    OK, so I have never made any secret that I think Emerald Night is crap. Odd proportions, terrible tender, complete lack of understanding of what several parts actually represent, looking *nothing* like the source material,.... I also know (from bitter experience) how difficult (and expensive) making a decent replacement is. After having built some really nice Pullmans, and building a disappointing pacific (which was miles better than EN), taking it apart, starting again, running out of inspiration, then getting made jobless so I couldn't afford to buy bits had I come up with an improved design, I decided to finally do something about my Emerald Night that had been sat in a corner with no wheels for at least 2 years. Things that I wanted to change: Give the front a footplate. Use the cylinder fix. Do something about that god awful (lack of) dome. Raise the cab so it doesn't look too daft with my coaches. Build a completely new tender (seriously, f**k that tender, that city cattle wagon was less lazy). Add lights and S Brick (which I had done a long while ago). So here are the results: Loco The new footplate, added tiles to the front bogie, replaced the green 1x6 plate with a black one, and the improved cylinder innards. New dome with S Brick underneath. Slightly raised cab. Tender The tender was a complete rebuild, but used basically the same chassis. It was however, a little lazy, and relied heavily on what I happened to already have. New Tender Completed Engine. I intend to replace it with an actually good loco one day, but until inspiration and funds allow, this is a vast improvement.
  20. Hello everyone. This is my modification of the truck vith container trailer. It is RC with power functions. 1 servo motor for steering 1 M motor for driving it is simply very cute to me and just fantastic to drive with this litle cute truck. and one simple video That's all for now. Best regards, Valter
  21. Feng-huang0296

    Converting 76108 into a proper Modular?

    So, if you consider the way that 76108 Battle for the Sanctum Sanctorum is designed, it's pretty clear that it was intended to be easy(ish) to convert into a Modular Building. After all, Modulars, as a rule of thumb, have more or less eight studs of space on their footpaths, and if you arrange the Sanctum in its corner formation so that each side wall is flush with the edge of a baseplate, you are conveniently left with eight studs. Add that to it being exactly three storeys tall, and the fact that it can be reconfigured to function as a 32-stud-long facade, as well as fitting perfectly with official Modulars in corner formation . . yeah, this thing is a Modular Building in disguise. Therefore, I am opening the floor to any who wants to share advice or strategies as to how to convert it into a proper Modular Building. There are . . okay, there are bad ideas, but very few! So, who's feeling inspired? (Also, I figured that since this is discussing primarily Modular Buildings, it ought to go in the town section . . sorry if this should be in Licensed!)
  22. Nothing too ambitious here, but I wanted Beetlejuice to be able to ride his sandworm from the new Dimensions pack, so I whipped up a few mods. Essentially, I added a connection point for a figure, extended the sandworm body so that the figure could be positioned at a good angle, added a fin to the body, and placed it all atop a sturdy base. Oh, and I gave Beetlejuice his cowboy hat to brandish -- because he's all about the showmanship!
  23. Hello, So I've wanted to re-create some of those older trains for Power Functions, but, the obvious problem is the size of the PF elements. After browsing this forum for a while, I've learnt couple of tricks though (mainly trick from @Brick Pirate's small shunter), so I decided to check whether it'd be possible to fit PF elements into the engine of 4564 set. My other goal is to be able to bricklink it cheaply, so I've also replaced some rare parts. The result would be pretty great, if not for the fact that I was not able to hide battery box fully - and I'm not sure if I'd try, I'd like to not make it taller - as it currently stands, it's only 1 plate higher than original. Any ideas on improving it are welcome! More images at: https://imgur.com/a/vQZ11 And the LDR file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v7jF9eCikgKt2e8_MWJCFB_9QrPpmGVz/view Enjoy!
  24. The Twi&'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi’lek Bombshell The Twi’lek Bombshell is a Slayn & Korpil B/SF-17 Starfortress heavy bomber belonging to the Cobalt Squadron of the Resistance movement against the First Order. This bomber is immediately recognizable through its distinctive nose art. Indeed, a ferocious dune lizard mouth is painted on the nose under the cockpit canopy, but the most noticeable part is a striking blue-skinned Twi’lek female sitting on a heavy bomb and painted on the bomber downward wing. Some people reported this was some kind of tribute to the defunct Jedi Master Ayla Secura. However, several other sources indicate this Twi’lek was only one of the numerous one-night bomb-run of one of the crewmen. Mystery will remain as the Twi’lek Bombshell was destroyed – and all of its crew killed – during the bombing mission on Q’Dar resulting in the destruction of the Mandator IV-class Siege Dreadnought Fulminatrix of the First Order Some archives could be retrieved. On one of them, we can see the Twi’lek Bombshell flying alongside another Starfortress from Crimson Squadron. This photo was probably taken shortly before its last run as 8 bombing kill marks can be seen and resistance records indicate the raid against the Fulminatrix would have been the 9th one. The Twi'lek Bombshell in space by Veynom, on Flickr Another picture shows the Twi’lek Bombshell during a bombing mission above what looks like a First Order cruiser of some kind. This one cannot be the Fulminatrix as we know all but one S/BF-17 were destroyed before reaching it. The Twi'lek Bombshell on a bombing run by Veynom, on Flickr (the above story is pure fiction mixed into canon elements from Star Wars VII: The Last Jedi .) The Twi’lek Bombshell is therefore a heavy MOD of the 75188 Resistance Bomber official set. The following modifications can be listed: The vertical wing has been made thicker by 2 plates and tiled; Nose arts (shark mouth & Twi’lek) and kill marks custom water transfers have been applied; The bomber body length has been increase by 8 studs while the hight was increased by 1 plate in order to better match the original model dimensions; The top turret has been moved backward, detailed and can now rotate; Rear guns and turrets have been detailed, taking inspiration from [URL=https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/154310-mod-bsf-17-heavy-bomber/]Gudetamago[/url] The bomber’s top received extra-detailing to closely match the original model. Forward wings have been rebuilt using SNOT. Cockpit and body inside have been detailed. The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The resulting model – while much heavier than the 75188 set – remains perfectly playable. It can still bomb (and the panel can rotate to be opened and reload the bombs) and it can still land as the 75188 model. Special thanks to Muad’Brick for the original concept art of the Twi’lek Bombshell and the edited pictures. The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr Thanks for reading and comments are welcome.
  25. My model of Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle was created from scratch and it is based on the construction solutions of the 75094 set. First it was created in LDD and later, after ordering the bricks, I made a number of significant adjustments. The biggest challenge was to keep the proportions as decent as possible, which, apart from the limitations resulting from the use of the 75094 skeleton, does not seem to me to be a simple thing on this scale. Among other things, for this reason, I finally gave up the opened interior (on which I did not particularly care about). Wherever possible, I tried to reproduce or refer to the details of the original. You may attach the landing gear but my model will always be presented on the stand. It is very stable and consists of about 1600 parts and therefore roughly over 600 more than the progenitor. I have designed the wings from the beginning in SNOT. The body is two studs longer, and in a large part, is a completely different construction than 75094. The wings are better embedded in it and they are less swaying, which is important because they are heavier. The fin is also proportionally extended by two studs and embedded somewhat differently. I have managed to slim down the cockpit and get a minimal nose down reduction in relation to the bottom, keeping the place for the stressed Han Solo. In this scale in flying mode, it matches the height of the UCS Slave I and it is the optimal scale for this model for me. 10212 UCS in flight position (and this is the only way I imagine presenting it) is monstrously huge - I mainly mean the height. I think that my model next to the UCS would not be too ashamed. You will find more photos in my flicker album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskvtke2v Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr