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Found 288 results

  1. Hello everybody and let me present my version of a modified 42005 Monster Truck. It was my second set after my "dark age", that I've bought many years ago, after 42029 as supplementary set with a lot of useful pieces and planned to use for a live axle suspension and some other features for 42029 model. However, I liked the set as a simple and functional model and re-assembled it several times. Here is the model and later I'll provide the all details: A month ago, when I tired of infinite attempts to turn 41999 into a Muscle Car (the chassis isn't rigid enough, but I already did a great progress and hopefully will share it once) I returned to this model and set the task to motorize it adding 4WD, but keeping 4 wheels steering and current suspension (keep the original construction as possible as I can). First, I've analyzed the all existing attempts that I could find over EB, Rebrickable and YouTube and it happens that there were several MODs by different authors: First of all, it's @Splat’s MOD with all steered and driven axles (see topic here). I see no reason to duplicate its description, so let me just note that he saved the necessary features with adding Servo + L-Motor mounted under the hood and trunk. The chassis configuration is 4x4/4 or 4WD-4WS. It’s the best motorized model, I think, because of amazing simplicity and performance, but unfortunately it has a kind of “articulated” steering that isn't real, so was trying to made a "real" 4WD-4WS version, using this model as reference. Another one is Jan Dvorak’s (is he on EB?) MOD with all original features supplemented by on-axle L-Motor that drives the rear wheels and Servo for the 4WS. He added an additional 5X7 frame with differential that provided a necessary rigidness. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or RWD-4WS. Personally I don't like such a long axle sub-frame. However I've found a good idea of vertical gears inside the central shaft. The third one is @codefox421's MOD, inspired by Splat’s version, with the original front axle and non-steered custom rear axle with on-axle L-Motor. His custom rear axle, based on two portal hubs, is a quite compact and simple, but has no steering. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. It looks trial-ready with the portal hubs, but it's nearly impossible to add the steering here, so I got nothing from this model. An unusual @Tommy Styrvoky's MOD with an interesting feature: he modified the front axle, not the rear one, by adding a solid drivetrain with worm gear and on-axle M-Motor, so result is a front-wheels driven Monster Truck with oversized fake engine. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or FWD-4WS. Very aggressive! WRRRRR Daniel Wirasantosa’s (is he on EB?) MOD that differs from the previous ones by using of chassis-mounted L-Motor that drives the rear axle (that has a bit low ground clearance due to the 5x7 frame) and, moreover, he used a custom steering shaft that comes directly to the steering rack. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. Starting this version, I got a more or less defined plan: 4WD with off-axle (chassis-mounted) L-Motor that drives the both axles through the existing “drivetrain” (former steering shaft) and the off-axle Servo that steers the both axles through the custom steering shaft above the driveshaft. There were two more versions: Michael M’s stretched one and LEGOTechnic360’s solid-chassis version with no suspension, but they didn't help me with any new ideas. Nothing personal, guys, if you're reading it, I just had a full and consistent vision of my further MOD: Hull - the original with no changes. Axles geometry - original. I tried to save the all things like the wheels location, suspension mounting points, ground clearance, steering angles (that are even bigger a bit now)… And I still can't believe that made it, after a thousand tries! Suspension - original, with no changes. However I put the hard shock absorbers in the rear end, as the default ones were too weak to keep the BuWizz battery. Wheels - original. I decided to keep the original wheels and tires with no giant crawler ones or even Claas, that are too big even for a Monster Truck. Frame - mostly original, but possibly modified since it will have an L-Motor and Servo mounted above the axles (right under the cargo platform and hood). Drivetrain - it must be the ex-steering shaft that comes through the cardans inside the "big" ball joints to the both axles, connected to the L-Motor via the set of normal and clutch gears. Steering - for the all wheels, like in the original model, but the steering shaft comes above the drive shaft, in parallel with it and can slide a bit while the suspension moves. Enough the words...The most interesting part starts here. Following my plan, the bigger challenge was to modify the original axles - I tried several options, even trial-like with solid axles, but 4WS provides an amazing maneuverability due to big steering angles, so axle diffs are likely vital for such model (solid axles were making a permanent clicking noise in the transmission even with motor stalling sometimes) and I decided to make a fast Monster truck, not a slow crawler with a high torque. The drive train. There you can see how I did it: L-Motor rotates a set of 8T and 16T normal and clutch (required for the steering shaft) gears and then the main horizontal shaft, that were used for steering in the original model. After that the shaft rotates the 12T double bevel gears (ex-pinon gears from the original model), than 20T gears below, single-bevel 20T and the differentials. As result, the gearing ratio is 1:1.667 X 1:1.4 = 1.2334, and provides about ~100 RPM with 15.12 N.cm torque. The wheels connected by a wheel hubs, since I wasn't able to use the universal and CV joints with affordable steering angles, wheels position (I kept exactly the same position as in 42005) and rigidness. The steering. Here you can see the servo (mounted upside down in order to provide more space for the battery block above, steering shaft that goes above the driveshaft, 12T gears (pinions) and 13L racks joined to the wheel hubs. In order to allow the suspension travel, the gears has 1/2L offset from the racks and slides together with the shafts along the mounting points when the suspension compresses. It's a fully legal, but still allowed in LDD and works like a charm! The only mistake that the hubs must be from Claas, but they aren't presented in LDD unfortunately: Just to explain why I used the clutch gears (but with no gearbox actually, ha-ha ), the drive and steering systems intersects so hard, so followed TLG way and used the same solution that they did in the official models (42029, for example) - passed the one through the other. Green is a drive subsystem, blue - steering. Other images, the story of a modified hull (by Phil), LDD file and instruction in PDF are coming soon...
  2. Hello, I modded the Lego Technic 42041 Race truck. Here are the modifications : Full black color with grey pin's New exhaust Trucks wheels (2 in the front and 4 in the back with a modify rear axle) French flag on the front intercooler Yellow and red colore on the back intercooler (in reference to the Wroclaw's speedway club) Differents curved 3x11 panels on side One stud lowered trailer attached Some pic's
  3. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  4. I'd like to present a wip which I am about half way through - I tore down my 42043 and decided to build @jb70's excellent moc 5890, the langholzlaster (long timber truck). I'm awaiting a load of parts from Bricklink and have been making various cosmetic changes to the front end, including some colour changes, shiny mirrors, rebuilt fenders, extra lights, ladder, small fuel tank, extra bodywork panels, hubcaps, moved and altered exhaust, aerial etc. I still have the back of the truck and the crane/pneumatics to build, and I've really enjoyed the project so far. Thanks @jb70 for a great MOC! Once it is finished I'm planning on loading it with logs and taking it outside to try and take some more interesting and artistic rugged photos...
  5. [MOD] 2017 Milano Set

    Here is my MOD for the LEGO 2017 Milano! It's pretty shabby but I did it quickly. Crucial though: You need 2x of this piece: 1x1 round with bar First, comparison photo of the old and new. (I added eyes). Since Nebula can go to the back, the main cockpit now sits four Guardians (can't add Baby Groot :( ) Now we go to the back of the Milano (I added an engine MOD as well) Remove the roof piece And put Nebula inside! If anyone is interested, please PM me your email and I will send you the LDD. Thanks for looking! VaderFan2187
  6. First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I thought this would be the best place for this topic since this is more of a Model Team set. Mods, please move this if you see fit to do so. Hello everyone! Today I am presenting a tiny MOD to the set 10248 Ferrari F40 to make it stanced and turn it into the drift supercar you know you always wanted! And yes, it does roll. Here are some quick pics of what I did: Tell me what you think! Anything from "I love it!" to "How could you! You ruined my favorite supercar!" is fine!
  7. While I absolutely LOVE the exterior of the new Ghostbusters set, the interior was much in need of an overhaul! While it technically "seated" all four figs it did so rather comically. Here then, are my mods. It seats all four in the proper placement without affecting the exterior or seriously degrading the integrity of the structure. See other images here. As I have received requests for it, here is the LDD file: Ecto1-Mods.lxf
  8. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  9. This started out as a 9493 that I picked up second hand, but complete. I was surprised how crude it looked after more recent sets, so I began tweaking it here and there, and then it just sort of got out of hand, and I don't think there are two bricks of the original set still in their original configuration! I'm not a quick MOCer by any standards, I tend to come back to things and tweak a bit, rummage through the spares, get inspired by others builds etc. There are plenty of things I could have done for greater accuracy, but I wanted it to be a tough build, and whilst there are techniques that would allow the shaping to be more screen accurate, they tend to be quite fragile, which is a compromise I was unwilling to make. Anyways, on with the pics The wings open and close in much the same way as in the originally set, though much of the mechanism has been messed about with and changed. The knob for opening has been relocated to the rear, and the rubber bands have been made a little more discrete, though I think if any further development on this happens, i may ditch it and revert to the wing mechanism used by many other x-wing MOCs. Tried to get the shaping on the underside as close as possible without it being too fragile, I think the shape is ok, but the slope section could do with being a little more secure. It doesn't fall off, but it's only connected at the rear. The gap in the underside is to accept the stand which is designed to hold the ship at an angle so it looks a little more dynamic. So yeah, it's not finished, I keep doing things to it when I find different or better solutions to things. I feel the rear of the fuselage might be a stud too long, so that's something I might look into. The greebling could be more accurate, but that's not a major worry. I realise the shaping is a little more rounded than some, but it's also a little less "studdy" too. I'd like to incorporate some landing gear but at this point I wanted to make sure it looked right, and the stand makes gear less vital for display. Overall I'm quite happy with it, but I'm also open for suggestions on improvements.
  10. Hello people, as i have seen some topics made by some members were they share their creations, modifications and ideas, i thought it was a good idea to start my own topic about that, this way i can avoid filling other topics with too many information by saving all that information here and just posting small texts in those other topics. To start, i would like to share some creations which i worked on: Model Team Nissan Frontier. This is one of my oldest models, i made it even before i knew about Eurobricks, and i would like to share it with you because you might like it or modified it: This model features front independent suspension, rear leaf spring suspension using 5.5 axles, HOG steering, working doors, bonnet and tailgate, 5 seats and a towing hitch; its very possible that some parts are with wrong colors or there could be outdated building techniques, but i think that is not too bad for one of my first LDD models (i am no sure, but if i have enough time and inspiration i could make it in real Technic parts), The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/nissan-frontier/Nissan Frontier.lxf. Model Team Paramount Group Marauder MRAP. Again, one of my oldest models, it is made at a pretty small scale but it could still be considered as "model team" (i think), it has pendular suspension in both axles which are damped by cross-axles which act as leaf springs, it has HOG steering, working winch and doors, a spare tire and 2 turrets that can be mounted on the roof: The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/paramount-marauder/Paramount Group Marauder.lxf Technic Unimog U500 Long Chassis (I have called it UNI-MOC) You might have seen it in the latest posts at 8110´s Mods topic ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/topic/57543-8110-unimog-mods-and-improvements/&page=78 ), it is a 64 studs long and 24 studs wide model which i started to make because the modifications in the 8110 got to a too high level and i wasn´t satisfied with the whole model, i created this new model to hold all of my wanted functions and details, this model has some designs from other builders: Madoca´s Tatra 2-speeds gearbox (slightly modified to fit in this new chassis), Efferman´s planetary rims, a modified version of Didumos knob gear driven axle and a 3-side dumping system and dropping sides inspired by Kumbbl´s modifications, it was also made by some help and inspiration by Pat-Ard: This Unimog has 4 M-Motors, 2 L-Motors, 2 XL-Motors, 3 IR RC Receivers, 2 AAA Battery Boxes and 3 PF Switches (brick-built with ugly colors), why so many motors? well, as you might know, the 8110 had only one M-Motor inside it, which was meant to drive the 3 main functions of the set (front PTO, rear PTO and the pneumatic pump) the problem was that the functions couldn't be used simultaneously, you couldn't power front and rear PTO´s at the same time or with the pneumatic pump and because this system uses a gearbox and axles to engage and transmit the power to the different parts, this results in a lot of friction and power losing (other of the reasons of why i started this MOC), other thing that bother me about the 8110 was the proportions of it, it was very tall with lifted wide axles, but very thin cab and bed which made it look silly, the chassis had no space for all the functions that i wanted, i couldn't place enough motors or functions on it, and the axles were another problem, the steering pivot and angle was a disappointing, the tires couldn't steer too much with the half pins, and if you removed them, the mudguards and the surrounding elements needed to be placed far away from the tires to avoid them from colliding, these are few of the reasons of why i started to make my own version of this UGN class of Unimog (which are U300, U400 and U500). Some of the good features of this model are: Improved steering pivot (2 studs closer to the wheels compared to standard portal hubs) Wheels and portal hubs can handle more torque without jamming parts The axles are more compact (less tall), so the chassis can move even lower for a more realistic performance Front steering by L-Motor Rear steering (By M-Motor) with the same axle design as the front one Anti-roll bars in both axles, which help a lot to handle with weight and give a lot of stability, and they can be easily removed for serious offroading Remotely shifted 2-speeds gearbox by M-Motor Directly driven pneumatic pump (L-Motor) and PTO´s (M-Motors) for less power losing 3-side tipping 37 studs long 23 studs wide dump bed with dropping sides using a V2 large pneumatic cylinder Drive by 2 XL-Motors So, these are some of my models, i hope you like them, and i hope to upload more of them, i will try to do my best with all them, let me know what you think about this topic and the models, and any suggestion is well received Thanks.
  11. Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it SERIES A Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year
  12. "Clang, clang, clang went the trolleyDing, ding, ding went the bell" - The trolley song (as sung by Judy Garland in the movie "Meet me in St Louis".) This 1930's PCC (Presidents’ Conference Committee) streamlined streetcar was originally designed in LEGO by Flickr user jwolfe7. I copied some of the design using his helpful instructions and added side skirts inspired by James Mathis' design from over a decade ago. Combined together, these features provided the groundwork for this streetcar, which is in 1940's St. Louis Public Service Company colors. The James Mathis-designed wheels can turn a complete 360 degrees. There is a slight gap between the car-body and wheel-set, but that is a price to pay for this design. See here for the original Brickshelf page for the wheels, dating from 2002. Here is the rear of the car. The pole on top of the car moves up and down signifying when the car is in operation (pole up and in contact with the "wires") while down represents the car is not in operation due to technical problems or in storage in the car barn. Below in the spoiler tag you will find my original version of this car from 2014. The LDD file for the newer version is here. Comments, question and complaints welcome!
  13. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  14. Hi all, even if this probably doesn't draw anybody from the woodwork today in the age of the Arocs 42043 ;-), i have - inspired from the better performance of the Arocs crane - recompiled my full featured Unimog 8110 from 2014 (http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1964626 and some following posts) and eliminated some remaining weak points: - better bracing of the XL propulsion drive train (now 100% reliable without any crackling gears) - double airpump now mounted the two pumps with offset to each other so the compressor delivers continuously pressure within a turn - replacing the M motor with a L motor which fits perfectly into the same location - preserving tiltable cabin even with battery pack placed within the cabin... So i have decided to rebuild the Mog from the scratch and to document the needed modifying steps with detailled photos, s.b. link... some parts of the following text and pictures are just a replication of some other postings by me in the Unimog Modification Thread but because these posting have a somehow WIP character which makes hard to recognice the final solution i have decided to present the whole final stuff in an own new thread - so if someone searches for a full-featured Unimog-MOD it can be found at one location. @moderator: if you think that this doesn't deserve an own thread, please feel free to move/merge this to the Unimog modification thread - sry for inconvenience! So here is the writeup of all the new features and improvements integrated in the Unimog. Here is the complete overview of the new features / improvements: New features: openable doors and windscreen wipers working steering wheel 3-side tiltable bed with real loading gates with locking mechanism Remote control for driving and steering - and this feature preserves the working steering wheel as well as the 3-side tilting bed and also the fake engine below the cabin. Basic requirement is 100 reliable steering and driving - Motors and receiver are quite invisible from the outside and do not badly influence the appearance of the Mog. rear PTO pass through (with PTO driven trailer, sb) so rear PTO can used even when the crane and outtriggers are rear-mounted flashing beacons on the cabin roof - activated when driving Improvements: PF switch for for better operating of the functions-motor, so you have not to change direction with the battery switch (which is very annoying) Double airpump compressor incl. airtank for more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. Airtank gives you also more flexibility during crane operation because cause of the air reservoir you can simultaneously move the pneumatic stuff and turning the crane smoother steering by fixing some steering issues Better weight balance (the standard Unimog is not really well balanced cause of the heavy battery box on the left side) More motor power for the functions and the compressor by replacing the M-motor by a L motor --> really a big improvement, strongly recommended! Attachments: - some front attachments: 8848 style pneumatic scoop pneumatic front-loader, PTO driven mower, PTO driven street cleaner - 8063 inspired trailer with PTO driven bed and deployable stand Primary goal was adding all these features and improvements but not to change the overall appearance of the 8110 because IMO this is very very good. In addition all standard features like fake engine and tiltable cabin should be preserved. Also the basic design with the gearbox etc. should be preserved. So all new features should be integraded homegeneously and - in best case - invisible. At this final state of the Unimog MOD i'm quite pleased with the result because all goals have been reached - IMHO ;-) Important remark: Some of the integrated mods are not my own but have been basicly "developed and designed" by others people, mostly eurobricks members. See the credits at the end of the posting! Pneumatic driven bed which can be tilted to all 3 sides - including real loading gates with locking It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! . There were no instructions available but there exist a bunch of photos of both solutions so i could reverse-engineer the tilting mechanisms. Most important concepts are a rotary cylinder base (based on barman's solution) a flexible connection to the bed ((completely "stolen" from tripletschiee, a very simple and intelligent solution ) and a "sub-bed" which allows to unlatch one of 3 possible tilting sides (rear, left and right): For easier rebuild i have documented the whole stuff with many detailled shots - see links section at the end. For the loading gates (see photo above) incl. a nifty locking mechanism i found a very good inspiration from EB member stefan_betula_pendula. - in this posting i have already described all deatails incl. many photos: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1972050 Double offset airpump compressor with airtank A Double airpump compressor incl. airtank provides more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. The dual airpumps are mounted with offset to each other so the compressor delivers permanently pressure. Supported by the airtank the whole system now offers in each situation enough and high air power so the crane operation has now always enough lifting power and quite fast response time. This offset needs some more space so this improvement needs one quite deep modification of the chassis which can not be applied to an already build unimog: More motor power for the functions with a L motor The M motor can quite easily replaced by a L motor if the unimog is build from scratch for all this mods. This is really a big improvement and it is strongly recommended! Turning the crane or driving something with one of the PTOs has now much more power. For the new double pump compressor (s.a.) the additional power is also appreciated. But one Remark to the pictures above: better use a standard 24th gear instead of the shown clutch - the double pump compressor appreciates the full power (with a clutch something gets lost within the clutch when airtank is almost full and no pneumatic operation takes immediately place) - with i standard gear i never get a stalled motor but always full air power... RC for driving and steering incl. a working steering wheel Today all stuff has to be RC - and even i'm not really into it i saw the challenge to integrate RCing into the Unimog together with the tilting bed (s.a.) - this tilting bed prevents from using the typical solution be placing the XL motor for propulsion in the middle of the chassis - there is simply to room for it. After a lot of try&error solutions i finally managed an RC-solution which integrates very well and is quite invisible from outside (btw: thanks to EB member Pat Ard for his initial idea placing the XL into the original battery compartment --> battery has then moved into the cabin) drives without any crackling of gears steers as well and reliable as the direct-servo-solution-on-fron-axle (steers also very well when not driving!) - a return-to-center is really not necessary with such slow vehicles... preserves the full suspension travel of the front axle (with the servo mounted on the front axle the travel must be reduced by the height of a 1x2 plate to prevent the servo from colliding with the pistons of the fake engine (from below) has a working steering wheel has a quite invisible IR receiver Integration of the XL motor: Overall the steering-motor, the accu battery and the IR receiver can be integrated very well into the cabin - the cabin then simply has a typical center console (M motor), a build in refrigerator box (gear reduction for steering) and a tool cabinet (accu at the back of the cabin): One remark to the steering solution: Here the servo motor was not an option for me, despite the fact, that the steering performance of the servo is perfect when mounted direct on the front axle - as shown e.g. by EB member Pat Ard. But this solution allows no working steering wheel because it is simply impossible to connect a universal joint and the steering CV joint (cause of too steep angle and too short distance). Running the servo from within the cabin by driving the standard steering gear-train of the 8110 is also no solution because then the steering performance is somehow mediocre: the servo has enough power but IMO the steering gear train from motor to the rack is too long with too many gears involved so there is to much backlash - and because the servo can just spin a 1/4 for a full steering lock and because of very much friction caused by the big tires this 1/4 round of the servo is partly somewhere lost in the steering gear train... These problems can all be avoided with my final and very well working solution: Steering driven by M motor with a quite high gear reduction in the cabin performs excellent, but only with a double clutch gear (because only one is too weak for a powerful and fast enough response steering even during stop cause of the high resistance of the big tires): For the working steering wheel i have 99% applied the solution of tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin Openable doors they were inspired by the solution of EB member Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... Using a PF switch switching direction via battery box is always a pain --> therefore i have added a PF switch - IMHO quite well integrated (and nowhere stolen ;-) Fixing steering issues There are two problems which needed being fixed: a) better steering lock/angle: This can be done by replacing the 4 3/4 pins (DBG) by 4 1/2 pins (LBG). Removing the pins completely is not the best solution because then the tires can rub on the chassis when suspension is compressed and you will steer... b) making the steering easier - out of the box it is way to hard - this is not only cause of the high friction of the tires but also cause of 4 red friction pins involved. In addition the whole front axle has a strong bump steer. well, i have tried several solutions: - Nicjasnos complete new front axle: this one has by far the best suspension and steering and reduces the bump steer a lot. BUT: it looks to bulky and therefore the look isn't realistic for a Unimog... therefore i have discarded it after building, installing and testing - applying the full fix of Junkstyle Gio (http://www.eurobrick...1) which replaces all 4 friction pins with frictionless-replacements: this makes the steering indeed very easy but on the other side now each grain of dust colliding with a front wheel can change the steering angle...it's too easy.. Therefore i have applied only the half of the fix of Junkstyle Gio so its a mixture of friction and frictionless pins --> IMHO is the best compromise of easyness and stability for the steering and the look of the front-axle: Adding a PTO pass trough for the crane - switchable between turning the crane and passing through the PTO This enhances the flexibility of the Unimog a lot beause now you can add any PTO powered trailer even with back-attached crane. There is a switch which allows to switch between spinning the crane and runing the PTO pass-through. PTO 1 has same speed as the PTO of the chassis, PTO 2 is slightly geared down (12:20) This mod is not from myself but it is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved. Highly recommened! Thank you, dr_spock, for providing me some detailshots. Trailer with dumping bed driven by the PTO pass-trough This trailer is inspired by the 8063 Trailer and by a trailer made by EB member dr_spock (which is also the designer of the pass through PTO as mentioned above). In fact: It is the 8063 trailer with slightly wider bed, bigger wheels and ability being connected to a mechanical PTO. In addition the tilting still can be manually operated. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full power-gear train is completely my own MOD. The original 8063 trailer has a nice stand that can be deployed via a lever mechanism that keeps the trailer upright when it is not attached to the towing vehicle. I wanted this stand being preserved because it works well and it is simply necessary for a trailer with such an axle layout: Preserving this stand makes a it little bit tricky to integrate a well braced and geared down gear-train from the coupling to the LA-base but i succeded: Details can be found in this posting: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1948575 Flashing beacons i ordered them by EB member Zmei_gorini4 (Kirill) - they work perfectly and look very good - IMHO they are worth the price...good job, Kirill! More details can be found here: http://www.eurobrick...25#entry1976100 Links to many many detail shots: Modded chassis: Building the modded chassis from scratch with all the following new features integrated: 3-side tilting bed, XL motor for propulsion (RC), L motor as replacement of the original M motor, double offset mounted air pump, preparation of airtank mounting plus hose guidings and covers for both motors (XL and L). Rear axle is 100% original and front axle has only applied the known steering fix for smoother steering movement and greater steering lock (s.a.). Of course in both axles you must switch the gear ratios vice verca in the portals (with 8:24 the Mog drives very well)! You can rebuild it with the photos found here http://bricksafe.com...ll-mods/chassis together with the original BI of the 8110. Modded Cabin: Detailed photos how to integrate RC steering: http://bricksafe.com...ontrol/Steering Detailed photos of the working steering wheel: http://bricksafe.com...l and PF switch Detailed photos of openable doors: http://bricksafe.com.../Openable doors Because these 3 mods have been done at different states of the Unimog modding there can be some inconsistences between some photos - build carefully together with the original 8110-BI because these 3 cabin mods slightly influence each other! Flasing beacons: http://bricksafe.com...lashing beacons Rear PTO pass-through: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...TO Pass through Trailer with tilting bed driven by the PTO: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...Unimog/Trailers - together with the original BI of the 8063 trailer you can easily rebuild it. Front loader attachment: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...ts/Front Loader 8848 style scoop: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...pneumatic-scoop PTO driven mower and street cleaner: Photo instructions can be found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Inspirations and credits: New features: openable doors were inspired by the solution of Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... For working steerng wheel i have 99% applied the solution of EB-member tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin - modified by me to work together with my RC steering solution The 3-side tilting bed It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members EB-members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! RC is completely my own solution and design, for steering as well as for propulsion The rear PTO pass-through is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved Flasing beacons are bought from EB member Zmei_gorini4 - integration in the cabin by me Improvements: PF switch is completely my own design Double compressor with offset airpumps is completely my own design steering fix is inspired by the solution of EB member Junkstyle Gio but modified by me better weight balance by placing the battery box with in the cabin is completely my own design replacing the M motor by a L motor is completely my own design Attachments: The 8848 style pneumatic scoop is 100% the design of EB member thomol (http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1164528) The pneumatic front loader is build based on the design of EB member Tim S. PTO driven mower and PTO driven street cleaner i have found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Trailer with PTO driven bed is inspired by the 8063 trailer and by a trailer of EB member dr_spock. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full PTO-gear train is completely my own MOD
  15. One thing that bothers me is that when the hatch fully opens, I have to turn the switch back to neutral position, or else the fans will stop spinning. So in step 14, I replace the clutch gear with the normal 24z gear: while in step 20 I use two clutch gears instead.
  16. Hi all, be kind, this is the first time I've actually started a topic here, and shared pics of my lego fumblings. I've been away from lego for 20 years, and then my GF bought me the lego millenium falcon for christmas, and it's totally rekindled my love (for Lego, not the GF, I loved her already...). Like many, I found the S-foils on the most recent T-70 X-wings rather underwhelming. The X-wings in the movie look so cool, aggressive, dynamic, and the new engine pods and the way the wings fold to become one single plane in cruise mode is very slick indeed. The Lego version is significantly less slick in this regard, and this bothered me. As is well documented, the wings don't even meet, let alone combine into one, the lower wing is studs down, which means the ugly plate underside is on show, and the dreaded blue rubber bands, both look out of place at the back of the engine pods, and pull the wings at an angle. I will say that I like the folding mechanism as a play function, and did not want to loose it. So first off, the closed position: When they're closed, there is no gap, no angle difference, and to all intents and purposes, it appears as though it's one single wing, just as it should. And now, open Again, no angle change due to rubber band tension. The bands are still being used, but I found a way to integrate them such that they pull the wings closed as they should, but not unevenly, and within the forward profile of the wings so that they're not obvious. In fact they now look like some kind of power cables on the engine undesides. Here's some close ups: I'll go into more detail on this tomorrow if anyone's interested, but essentially the now studs up lower wings have some 2x1 modified plates with pin loops with pins going into 1x1 technic bricks as the method of attaching them, with one of the pins sticking out for the bands to locate on. The bands then go around the back of another pin that replaced a cream coloured short pin on the body of the ship, then go up inside the upper wing engine where there's one of thes guys for them to hook on to: It has as much tension as the original system, but looks alot slicker, though i will admit it is a bit trickier to put together. the bands also seem to hold the lower wing onto the engine a bit too, which is nice. The rear landing gear is rubbish on the original, and i wanted something that would retract cleanly. The real ship has landing gear that emerges from the slopes between the curved engine and the wing. This seemed impossible to duplicate at this scale, and with the stuff for the new folding mechanism, so did landing gear on the engines too, so i mounted it to the body, at its widest part. It folds up and becomes part of the body curve at the back, which is nice. I apologise for the crappy lighting, again, I'll get better pics if there's interest. I may swap the grey part for black, but I don't have any at the moment. Elsewhere on the ship, I moved the cockpit back one stud, and started playing around reprofiling the nose a little. This is the next area for my attention and is a work in progress. Please feel free to comment, I'm open for any constructive criticism!
  17. (NOTE: This model will be built when funding allows, hopefully by the middle end of this year!) Inspired by set 149 (Fuel Refinery) from 1976 as seen above (pic from BrickSet), this model takes the 4.5v era Shell refinery and turns it into a two-bay diesel locomotive / oil burning steam engine fuel depot for the modern PF age. The model features two floors with removable roof sections, and is updated for 2017 parts-wise. The included truck is inspired by set 10184 (Town Plan), and features two four opening storage compartments and two side doors for the driver. NOTE: This part goes above both ends of the locomotive refueling bay. while this part here replaces the 2 x 4 x 3 brick on the wall. The flag should be printed too. As a side note, the locomotive bays are tall enough to let any official car through, including the double stacked container car from the Maersk train. The upper floor of the depot features a control station for monitoring the flow of fuel from the tanks on the roof to the service bay, or from the tanker truck to the storage tanks. The roof of the facility comes off in two sections. The upper floor features a opening door to the tanks and staircase to the lower floor and the flow-monitoring systems. I think my brother may originally have built this truck, but I'm not 100% sure where it came from as it's been on my computer for about three years. The driver's doors open, and so do all four storage compartments. This truck fits one driver figure. The LDD file for the truck and fuel depot is here. As usual, Comments, Questions, Suggestions & Complaints are always welcome!
  18. I really like this set, and even it has IMO a great gearbox, one of the first things I was thinking of after completing the build, was how to make it RC. I guess most of the six functions are straight forward, but operation of the claw is obviously more tricky. I tried to figure out if it was possible to operate the claw by the hoist string. I realized that it is possible to transfer motion to a pulley in the claw simply by pulling the string on one side of the pulley, and letting out on the other side. The claw should then in theory be kept at the same level, and the motion transfered to the pulley could be used to drive the m-LA. To achieve this, I have used two reels, each of them connected to the ouputs of a subtractor (geared down 1:3 with Z12 and Z36 double bevel gears). If using tracked vehicle implementation of a subtractor as a reference, the "drive" part is done with a M motor driving a worm gear that in turn drives a Z8 spur gear. The "turn" part is done by a XL motor, directly driving the differential housings. I probably could use a L motor as well, thus avoid the coasting of the XL. The string I have used, is simple string for packing purposes. I guess it is better (and more puristic) to use the thick LEGO string, as it looks better, is more solid and no twisting. Problem is, can I get a thick LEGO string that is long enough? Please don't judge from the aesthetics, the main goal for me at this stage was to demonstrate the idea, and I have not put a lot of effort in the looks, or making it compact. Link to video: Here is my own judge for the idea: Pros: IMO it looks more clean than a hanging motor with it's supplying wires. Both hoisting and claw operation may be done simultaneously. Able to operate two functions with a simple string. Adding mechanical complexity to the model, something I like. Cons: The torque delivered to the m-LA is limited, so the grip of the claw is not very strong. It should be apx. equal amount of string on both reals, to achieve claw operation without changing the level of the claw. Claw operation is depending on friction between the string and the claw pulley. If the the claw is resting on the ground or the object it should lift, it will not work. Probably not real-life-like implementation of claw operation. Another idea I have, still not tested, is to convert the hoist string into a closed loop. the claw implementation is the same, with a pulley driving the m-LA. On the tip of the boom, there is a pulley, driven by cross axles from the super structure (the reason for location on the tip of the boom is to reduce length of the string, and number of pulleys, to reduce friction). The hoist may then be done by two pulleys pulled along the boom, towards the super structure. One of the advantages of this implementation, if it works, is that "Con #2" above is eliminated. I don't know if this description makes sense to you, I will try to test this version also. Main problem is, how to make a long, closed loop of LEGO string, without any bumps. I appreciate any feedback, including cons. And I also hope to inspire some of you to come up with a better solution. PS: Somebody who knows how to embed a "visual" youtube link, like most of the others do (I didn't figure out)?
  19. [MOD] UCS Slave 1 + Lights!

    Hi all! I hope I'm doing this correctly?! I don't usually find my way over to the Star Wars section but wanted to share my Slave 1 with you all! I snagged the idea from a guy on Reddit who added white lights into his Slave 1 to light up the engines, and I loved the look! I knew I had to do it myself. To make it more of my own take on it I decided to change the lights to orange to try and match the engine colour better. I've also swapped out the trans-blue 1x1 tiles on the top engine for trans-orange, and have some trans-orange discs coming to replace the lower blue ones. Anyway, I hope you guys like! I plan on getting some more lights into the cockpit at some stage but didn't think orange would suit in there. You can just about see the battery pack sitting on the stand underneath with a bit of wire showing. I plan to try and hide this a bit better at some point. Signed by the main man himself :) Played around with the photo a bit as it was still light out when I took pictures... Lastly, the back! I might try and fill the last 3 holes with either more LED's to make the bottom engines brighter but if I did 6 at the bottom I'd only have 8 for the top (there's currently 14). Bonus pic - quick photo of just after I put them in. I pulled the curtain shut to try and get it a little darker but even then it was still quite light and they stand out ok. I need to change the 8x1 brick at the top for a flat 8x1 so it sits flush again, but other than that, and swapping trans-blue for trans-orange I've not amended the build. I hope you guys enjoyed!
  20. [MOC] Council of Elrond

    Hi all, this is my first MOC of the Lord of the Rings theme. It needed a lot of work and I'm quite proud of it. I built it starting from the original set and taking inspiration from different mocs that i found on web. Hope you like it!
  21. While waiting for more building materials for Inferno HQ we decided that it was time the Agents of Godwins Hollow upgraded their vehicles. The first two are some basic MODs/repaints to vehicles from existing sets but the third is a MOC dropship allowing the Agents to get significant numbers of personnel into the fray quickly. The 4x4 All Terrain Attack Vehicle Agents of Godwins Hollow - Vehicles Agents of Godwins Hollow - Vehicles The 'Spyder' Assault Speedster WP_20170603_22_25_59_Pro WP_20170603_22_25_26_Pro WP_20170603_22_22_51_Pro WP_20170603_22_20_13_Pro WP_20170603_22_19_53_Pro WP_20170603_22_16_43_Pro The 'Bulldog' Armored Personnel Dropship WP_20170603_22_11_22_Pro WP_20170603_22_07_44_Pro WP_20170603_21_51_06_Pro WP_20170603_21_51_03_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_49_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_44_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_37_Pro WP_20170603_21_47_51_Pro WP_20170603_21_44_46_Pro WP_20170603_21_44_36_Pro WP_20170603_15_56_11_Pro Everybody all together... WP_20170603_22_15_55_Pro WP_20170603_22_14_13_Pro by Stewart & Sydney, on Flickr There are more pics on Flickr if you're interested and always, your comments are appreciated. Thanks for taking a look.
  22. Hello everyone, I have recently picked up a 42054. Immediately I noticed the insane amount of backlash and resistance in the steering system. Here's how I fixed it: 1: Finding the problem: The problem was one of these: It was adding lots of friction which caused the grand majority of the backlash. It is added in this step (step 57 substep 2): 2. Replacing the piece. This was relatively simple, I replaced it with one of these: I had to hold the other piece in before placing it into the assembly, but it was totally worth it. There is little to no backlash and resistance. So, that's it! Thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  23. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  24. [MOC / MOD] Another UT-60D U-wing

    The U-Wing is probably my favorite thing to come out of Rogue One. I got the official set back in December and while it is a great build, I needed more. My goal with this build was to create a more accurate "system scale" (dubbed by Inthert) model built on the the official model. Some of the UCS models on here are fantastic but a little too blocky for me. The U-Wing has some tough angles and the interior is very challenging. Another thing I did differently with this build was I sat down with the official model, pulled out all my parts, pulled up some reference images and started tinkering section by section. I had a blast, felt like a little kid again building this way. Recently I have started everything in LDD, and methodically optimized the model, ordered parts, etc. It was nice to go old school. A huge shout out DarthTwoShedsJackson as his model was a big inspiration... if he ever uploads an LDD file or breakdown I may have to build one. Also, Inthert's recent model minifigure-ish scale model is fantastic. Go to my flicker page for a few more pictures and breakdown of some components. DSC03557-Edit by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03560 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03556 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03559 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03554 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03562 by James Eilers, on Flickr
  25. Hi all! First post from me, I've been hopelessly hooked on the new Star Wars Lego for a few years now, modding a few like Poe's X-Wing, but I wasn't sure about posting pics since that one especially has been modded to death :) I got the new Milano for my birthday (thanks kids!), it's an amazing little set but I think it just needs a couple of obvious tweaks to finish it off. Here's my effort, it's no movie replica but I've tried to build up the rear of the top to make it more substantial and added some fins. I also changed the main engine for a revolver stud shooter thing, added a couple of engines to the wings and turned the empty lower rear part into a hold for all the minifig weapons, Groot's boombox and Starlord's helmet. The annulax batteries went straight in the spares box with that horrible pink tentacle monster, yeuch! Lastly I filled in some empty internal gaps, like inside the ships 'chin', and changed those yellow hinge parts inside the wings for black ones. Hopefully the photos show off the big changes. I think it's a fun little set that was sadly missing some finishing touches, but with a few spare parts added looks so much better!