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Found 16 results

  1. I design Test car 8865 Evo. It is studless. It has four wheel drive, V8 engine, suspention on all wheels, can open the trunk, steering, adjustable seats and 4speed gearbox. And of course the headlights can tilt down also. it has between 1100 - 1150 parts. I shall post free instructions when I am finish. Here is a picture from LDD. I need more parts, but here you can see the gearbox and two differentials I make instructions. Here from Ldraw:
  2. My husband got the idea to build a studless version of 8859 made in 1981. We made it together and here it is with youtubevideo and instructions and photos. Free nstructions here: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8462/Helgejohan3/technic-8859-revival-4wd/
  3. Me and my husband made this car, it is a studless Test car 8865. We call it Test car 8865 Revival. Me and my husband have the same hobby. It has 746 parts. We made instructions. Here they are and they are free: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8231/Helgejohan3/test-car-8865-revival/ UNPAINTED MOTOR AND RIMS:
  4. Hello, I’s been a long time ago Since I presented something here so it’s time to change it Few months ago there were a competition on our local LugPol forum where the goal was to remake a Technic set made before 2000 into studless model. I decided to take on workshop 8858 Rebel Wrecker. Beside my creation there were other two Rebels submitted. You can check all participants here: http://www.lugpol.pl...pic.php?t=26707 After all my remake of 8858 won in the category of more than 200, but less than 500 pieces. I have to say that it is not so easy to recreate a set into studless version. I told myself to keep all important points where things like suspension are mounded in the same place as in original set. So almost all dimensions stayed unchanged (e.g wheelbase, hood length, etc.) The main difference between original and my version is width. Old sets had even number of studs in wide, nowadays it’s an odd number. So my Rebel is 1 stud wider. When it comes to overall appearance I tried to make it as close as possible to the original but stay into modern style using liftarms instead of plates and bricks. Of course I had to change some kind of colours so for example Light Gray is replaced by LBG. One thing that I keep unchanged is front steering system. Yes, the small gear rack is present but for example 8048 which was released few years ago still has the same solution so I think that it’s fine to use it as well. Of course functionality of the model is the same as studfull, so working V6 engine and self locking rear winch is present. I am quite happy about this model. I made everything as I wanted, everything works, it took a first place so what to want more Below there is a video, and link to BS gallery. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561705 Greetings, Patrick.
  5. There have been a number of topics dedicated to the studless vs. studded discussion, but I'm more interested in uniting the two paradigms. I really like the new possibilities that studless building gives me, but I also like the look of studded models. The combination is wonderful, as builder like e.g. like 2LegoOrNot2Lego, Erik Leppen, M_Longer and others show. So I'm interested in learning techniques on how to combine the two. In particular, how do you deal with the odd vs. even number of studs along the width of your model? Parts like are useful, but I guess there's many more possibilities. Can you share some? Illustrated examples are welcomed
  6. After three months of iterating upon its design in LDD, 111.34 Australian dollars and half an hour of building, my McLaren F1 is complete! The total number of parts is approximately individual 165 pieces (this includes wheels and tyres being counted as separate parts), and two of the main body pieces (leading up to the rear wheel arches) come from a 130 dollar LEGO set. There is not an angle that the McLaren F1 has that isn't iconic. From its rounded, short rear-end and taillights to its slim front nose, the car's entire design philosophy was based solely on how light its designers could get it to be - and even then, they weren't happy. What supercar is complete without some rich guy in his freshly-pressed (and very plasticy, in this case) suit and suitcase? It fits a minifigure! Barely. LDD likes to assume you can phase parts together, so while I was able to add a minifigure and let it sit comfortably in LDD, I'm forced to remove the minifigure's hair/hat/etc for it to fit in real life. To say it's a tight squeeze is an understatement. I saved the best for last, so, of course, what McLaren F1 would be complete without a "Longtail"? Images are hosted on MOC-Pages, and will be used in my page when it goes live: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/429852 Stores pilfered to construct this MOC: SwissBrickPlanet 2AM Brick Store BrickComplete AFOL Supply WLWYB Thanks for the excellent prices & parts!
  7. Hello fellow Technic fans, let me present to you my tribute model to the well known, iconic set 8880 As a new member I should introduce myself, but I did that already in the forum designed for the very purpose so I just link that here http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134093 and we can jump to the main subject. I've been encouraged by a commenter on youtube who is a member here to share this MOC of mine on this forum as maybe this will give you a rest after the frustration caused by the much anticipated 42056. Don't get it wrong, I don't mean to fill the gap it left (I read the topic too and share the feeling), but hopefully can give you a few minutes of entertainment. I admit it is a sensitive piece of history to touch, but I hope you recognize that the respect towards the original model what was driving my hands while I was designing this plastic homage. Probably some of you have already seen the video on the youtube. For those who didn't let me link it: Instead of making a new description I'll use the one that I made for the vid and pepper it with some images: The original set 8880 has been released in 1994. Sadly that time I was living my dark age (life without lego). Now it's been 4 years that I got back in business, dark age is over and this set is weightly responsible for that change in my life. First I was just reading about it on Blackbird page. Long story short I could manage to get one, and as an old school lego fan (being child in the 80's) it straight enchanted me and determined probably my whole life (hobbywise at least). In the same time I really admire the modern studdless system of lego and it inevitably ended up in the demand in me to build a studless version of it. I've built it first in 2013, but in lack of sources (parts and talent) it wasn't really desirable, nor "smart". Since then I keep rebuilding it time to time and always ends up better and better. According this I wouldn't say this is the last or the best of it, but at the moment this is the stage of its evolution. This is where the name I gave came from. A few words about the details: Body: As you can see I did not use panels but kept the wireframe like appearance as it is one of the benchmark of the original set. Speaking of which I have to admit I did change the shape of the front a lot, even eliminated the concealed headlights due to the feeling that time has passed and it's not cool anymore. But to pay back what I took, I've designed a hood what follows the geometrical concept of the boot. If you listen closer, when the hood opens, the headlights are sliding backward. Rest of the body I think speaks for itself. Interior: Not much to say about it, seats, dash , keeping the colour scheme. Gearbox: Now that is a tricky one. That was the first problem I've been facing with as due to the size of the model I needed a narrow 4 speed gearbox with central differential, but I could not find a decent one anywhere. Crowkillers Paul had the 6 speeder, but it was too wide for my car and Sariel's 4 speeder has been designed for two wheel drive. So I've spent the next month and a half to develop a new one from scratch. Of course if there is a central diff it should be lockable, so it is. And it makes a very compact structure with the gearbox itself what comes handy in modular building. Edit: that was years back. From here it seems rediculously long time, but I let you decide. Here is a deidcated video about this gearbox: Steering: Unlike in the original, there is no ackermann geometry in my model, but please blame lego as it is the field where the part developement goes backward. Anyway the front steering is pretty simple, but for the rear I had to use a rod mechanism, since the compact gearbox left no room for an axle to go trough without compromising the aesthetics. It comes however with certain benefits, as with minor modification on the linking can change the steering lock of the rear wheels. I've applied the smalest as I've found it more realistic. The real life 4 wheel steered cars have only 3-5 degrees on the rear. Ground clearence adjustment: No witchcraft, a worm gear and an 8 tooth gear paired up on each wheel to lift and lower the shockers trough an axle. That's it. Friend of my accidentally discovered (by opening the boot) that this coupe can be converted easily to a hatchback... To be honest I did not consider this as a requirement when I was designing the model. I've made a couple of colour variations too as it appeared above. There is more hi-res pics on my brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=562855 Feel free to share your opinion or ask about it Thank you for your attention. Attika
  8. TC8 Folding Crane (not yet finished) I think it's about time to show what I have been secretly working on in the past weeks. It's not done yet, but it's getting there and I feel that this time, things might just work out. As you can see, it's not finished. The biggest question mark right now for me is, where to put the winch that will unfold the jib. There's no room anywhere! :D Of course, I'll be showing the unfolded state later (when everything works). So, what does it do? The carrier has two functions: 1. steering on all axles, driven from a gear on the back. Central axle has half the angle of the other two. 2. outriggers, all connected, driven from a gear on the back. Outriggers are the same system as those in 8460. There's no engine - no room. Slewing the superstructure is the same mechanism as 8421 - manual. The superstructure has two winches. 1. lifting the main boom 2. extending the main boom Both are worm-driven, to prevent backdriving. A third winch has to be fitted somewhere to unfold the jib. This will probably end up somewhere on the boom - there's no space on the supersturcutre to add a third worm-driven winch. Unless, maybe, I sacrifice the paneling. Last jib section has to be put on by hand. The actual crane winch and hook are also still to do. Might be that I make the last jib section a bit shorter to keep things in proportion a bit. Also, the controls for the crane winch might also be simple and close to the function itself. Controlling everything from the base is simply not possible. Sets do this too, so I don't see it as a problem. Building a decently-working folding crane is high on my wish-list for quite some time (think years), so I really hope I can get everything to work this time. I all goes well, I might do instructions (but without the strings). I keep a digital file, which tells me I'm at about 1400 parts right now. Any tips are welcome, especially as to where to put that winch :P
  9. For the past two months I've been building my entry for the Enforces vs. Bandits competition, and it has finally arrived! Enforcers - Valuable Transport My source of inspiration is an actual valuable transport truck that I once saw driving over the Dutch highways: which led me to think: how cool would it be to hide some sort of advanced weaponry in there and have it fold open? First I thought about folding open the container, but in the end it's the entire truck that folds open. Also, the weapons I envisioned were different from what they have become, but the main idea is still there. So, the specs: Manual functions First of all, three of the four axles have steering. The third axle is idle, but has double tyres. I used the same steering linkage as D3K did in his Midi-scale pneumatic crane truck (with his permission), but I reinforced it, sacrificing some ground clearance. Another feature is that the doors of the cabin can open. Electric functions The truck houses the normal battery box driving an M motor. This drives a gearbox that operates three functions: transformation rotating the turrets raising/lowering the guns Transformation Getting the transformation to work was the biggest challenge. The entire sides of the truck are panels that are hinged at the bottom. Via a worm gear system they are deployed outwards. Also, the seats will rotate so that they face the weaponry, so that the driver can operate them. Because of the weight of the side panels, transforming back into transport mode takes well over a minute... Armament In battle mode, the truck shows two turrets carrying two guns, having three bullets each (making the total ammo 12). Via the gearbox the turrets can rotate together, and the guns can be raised. A spring-loaded mechanism is used to shoot. No specialized parts have been used, except the standard dark-gray 9.5L springs from set 8880. Shooting is done manually by rotating the knob wheels. The bullets are white 1x5 beams. Here's a computer image of all the functions. And, of course, the video.
  10. Last days, I've made this micro scale Futuron base, the Research Compound. Dimensions: width: 18 studs length: 18 studs The Futuron base contains a monorail, spaceship, sattelite and a landing platform pictures: 01_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 02_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 03_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 04_Monorail by LegoMathijs, on Flickr hope you like it :) pictures also on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mathijslegofan/sets/72157651979857309
  11. As the title says, which construction style of Technic is better, studded or studless? Look at the poll, and sound off. I couldn't get a poll to work, so could the mods please delete this.
  12. Here's my work in progress for the Sbrick contest. The plan to build this was actually before the contest was announced, but I didn't actually start building until januari, just had a rough draft in my head until then. I usuallly don't post WIP stuff, but since I solved the problems I had with this build (and there were many, but more on that later), I feel confident enough to post a little about it. It has the following functions: 2x L motor for drive (and steering obviously ) 2x M motor for the arms The M motors will also fulfill another role, but I am keeping that as a surprise for now. I tried to "hide" the 2 IR recievers in Wall-E's front. He has a display there too where the black tops of the recievers pop, though it isn't as wide as this and the battery meter suffered a little because of it. Of course with an Sbrick you can make a proper display, but I think this works pretty well for a purist As you can see I still need to make a neck and a head, but the groundwork inside is ready to build that so I don't expect much problems with it (yes, I totally jinxed myself). Also, the white wheels in the tracks are temporary. I ordered grey ones from BL, which already shipped and I hope to recieve them some time next week. A little glimpse of the insides: You can also see Jeroen Ottens' awesome little microphones. Why did I used those? The regular ball pins or balls with axle would touch and block each other if both M motors run, these do not. Besides cramming in 1 batterybox, 2 IR recievers, 2 L motors and 2 M Motors I also used a gearbox based on this principle: I found this type of gearbox while looking around on the web trying to figure out what would be cool (and compact) to use in my model. No need for me to come up with my own gearbox when there are so many good ones online after all I chose this one because it meant I could always control 5-6 functions without knowing which gear was selected in the gearbox, which adds to the playability imo. I am aware there alot of Lego Wall-E's out there, ALOT. I know, I saw most of them when looking around And of course the Lego Ideas Wall-E that is incoming. Though that guy needs to explain to me how 5L tracks fit in a 10L wide body when Wall-E wants to transform into a box. I do think however I made a Wall-E that's different than most, for the simple reason it is build 90-95% from studless Technic. All others either have Technic bricks combined with Sytem bricks or are build from System bricks. It wasn't a goal to design a studless Wall-E though, it just came to be during the build and I tried to solve stuff as much as possible with studless Technic since then while still looking clean. Though I am unsure if this studless approach works for the hands, perhaps I should make them from System bricks. The hands do function like Wall-E's real hands though and can be set in fixed positions thanks to friction pins and 3L axles with stop. For the top cover I didn't want to add another layer of liftarms since it felt "too high" for the scale of the model, but I couldn't used thin liftarms either unless I wanted a swiss cheese look for the top, so I went with Syetem tiles to provide a clean smooth top. I actually wanted to make a transforming Wall-E but still have drive and moveable arms and whatnot, but I simply can't build that at this scale (*looks at all that PF blocking the places where the tracks and head would need to go in to be a Wall-E box*). Speaking of scale, I took a little bit of liberty with that. Simple example: 5L tracks, 13L wide body. Which makes technical sense to me when looking at his transformation in the movie (I watched it again for "research" before I actually started this build ). 13L wide body means 1L for the sides and 1L for inbetween the 5L tracks, those spaces are there in the movie so they are there in my model. I also wanted the rear wheels in the tracks to be a little bigger. I even considered Unimog rims, but those don't play nice with tracks. I am open for suggestions for bigger rims that play nice with tracks, though I do consider these to be ok (hence why I ordered them in grey ). Fun fact: every (and I mean EVERY!) part has been at least rebuild two times. I think I even took the rear cover apart about 8 times, the centre 3 times, arm mechanisms 4 times, tracks have been rebuild 4 times. Though the last track revision was simply to scale it up with bigger rear rims, since I had smaller ones in there first which looked too small with the rest of the model. All other revisions were basically reinforcing the structure to prevent any gear slips. I solved the last of those gear slips today and the model is very rigid now and works perfectly. Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's dark outside Hope you guys like it so far. More to come.
  13. When I build a car the answer is liftarms and I love them because his light weight and soft curves, but when I build a machine or a truck everything changes and my MOCs loose quality although they have many features or qualities. I always look for maximum functionality sacrificing aesthetics a bit but the question is, do I have to use bricks in machines and trucks?, I wonder if the weight gain would be significant. For me a hybrid structure is always the best, talking about machine arms for example.
  14. Here I present a Lego model of a large front shovel hydraulic excavator. I used Terex RH400, the largest machine of that type, as a prototype, although I did not intend to recreate it precisely. The model features a completely studless Technic design. At the same time, it is built in minifigure scale. Power functions: 1. Remotely controlled functions: Driving and steering (XL- and L-motor through subtractor); Lifting and bending of the boom (2 L-motors); Lifting the bucket (M-motor); Opening the bucket (M-motor); Rotation of the superstructure (M-motor); Lifting the ladder (M-motor). 2. Manually controlled functions: Working imitation of diesel engines and fans (M-motor); Lights. In total the model comprises 1 XL-, 3 L- and 5 M-motors, 3 sets of lights, 4 IR receivers and 2 rechargeable battery boxes. Unfortunately, there is no video yet, so I tried to compensate it with several slideshows. Overview of the model. Slideshow. View from above. Excavator's driver. Exhaust pipes of one of the engines. Model's functions. Projectors allow the excavator to work effectively during night shifts. The ladder is lifted automatically. The doors of the cabin are opened manually. Starting up the engines and fans. A simple suspension of the tracks. Rotation of the superstructure. Demonstration of the digging cycle of the excavator. Unloading the bucket. Thank you for your attention! Additional links: flickr album Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Separate parts lists and instructions for the base can be found on BrickSafe. Renders by Blakbird. Example: Review of the building process of the superstructure and the base by Blakbird. Photo by Blakbird: You may also check out photos of this model built by other Eurobricks members: kandykop, Therion, Duky, OneMoreRobot (SBrick version), Scapuc. There are several videos of this model built by other users on Youtube, for example, . Alternative, improved instructions created by afol1969. Custom sticker sheets created by jaaptechnic.
  15. Hi all, I recently received my big box of old Lego Technic from my parents and it completely sparked a renewed interested in Technic. I tried to put some of the models together but since it has been 20 years since I last used it and I clearly wasn't very careful as a kid not a lot of them are complete. To remedy that problem I went out and got 8110, 9383 and 42006 because I am/was a huge fan of pneumatics (sparked by the awesome 8868 and some earlier smaller pneumatic sets) and wanted to try the IR/PF stuff and the LAs respectively so I figured those would be good sets to start out with. Oh and I've also started lurking here but figured I might as well register ;) So with that introduction aside here's my actual question; I love the studless stuff because it makes it much more challenging to create good, solid models. The thing is that I have to get used to all the new building techniques, even the relatively simple ones. I was wondering if there's a place on the big ol' internet that can be used as a reference for a lot of standard building techniques (from simple things like different connections to components like suspensions, transmissions, various gear linkages and so forth). Does that exist? Thanks a lot! A revived Technic fan.
  16. Here we go, I'm attempting to make an update of Jennifer Clark's legendary Demag AC50, and I have some questions to ask about the model. I want it to look similar, although updated to the best Lego currently has to offer, and with no modified parts. The questions are as follows: Where is the battery box for the carrier located? How big is the model? What goes in the section behind the front wheels? How tall is the boom? How many studs are between each axle? How long is the leadscrew used to raise the boom? This is all stuff that I was not able to determine from the pictures, so this is why I'm asking. The help of anyone who has built this model, or even the designer herself, would be appreciated. also, I have made a new, driven and steered front axle, but I'm not sure if the current drive I've come up with, which includes a lockable differential, will fit. I'm planning on moving the drive motor to the front, just behind the front axle, but I'm not sure if that will fit either. Any help is appreciated.