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Found 28 results

  1. Hello Magnum, Ferrari and Speed Champions fans, this targa topped 1984 Ferrari 308GTSi Quattrovalvole (pictures 1 and 6) was made famous by the television series Magnum, p.i. in which the series' lead, Thomas Magnum (Tom Selleck) drove the car around Oahu for eight seasons while on his investigations, from 1980 to 1988. Several 308 GTS cars were used, a new one for each season, most being auctioned off after filming and all with the license plate ROBIN 1. The berlinetta version of this model is called Ferrari 308GTB Quattrovalvole (pictures 2-5 and 7-8). The design inspiration of this model came from a Ferrari 308 Matchbox which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: or They are a studless builds in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek models which are as accurate as possible in this small scale. Only two stickers are used per model: the rectangular Ferrari logo, and the vehicle registration plate, to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The models contain lots of details: for example the emblematic air vents on the hood (black on GTS and red on GTB), the front bumper with the turn signal lights, the tilted front grill, the rear three quarter window with black cover, the turn signal lights on the front side, the black stripe on the sides, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats and the two interior tan tiles minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Magnum's car 01 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 02 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 03 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 04 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 05 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Magnum's car 06 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 07 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 08 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr
  2. 8880 can be called my favorite set of a series of Techniс, and I have long wanted to touch it by assembling it from modern parts, because I don't have any old ones, and it's too expensive to buy the original set. Getting started: Some teaser: Almost done: Final result: Description: All the features of the original set are preserved: steering of all wheels from the handle on the roof and from the steering wheel in the cabin, a model of a v8 engine with a fan, a 4-speed gearbox, all-wheel drive with three differentials, independent suspension of all wheels; Additional functions: Opening the engine compartment with a support, lifting the headlights with a lever from the cab; Comparison with the original: I'm sorry that I published all the photos at once, and not sequentially. This is my first competition for Eurobricks, and I did not immediately understand the rules. I hope I did everything right :)
  3. So, I had a lot of ambition, and good ideas for my studless remake. Originally, I was going to do a studless version of set 6957 Solar Snooper, a set from my childhood. Unfortunately, my mental illness kicked in, and I was left at a week before the original deadline with no model to enter. But, I wanted to build something, so I looked at Technicopedia for inspiration, and landed on set 858 Auto Engines. This set is unique, because as many Technic sets feature an engine, only this one is dedicated to engines. The model I chose was the 'Boxer" engine, as that is one that I could improve on, without adding any functions. Now, the original engine is not actually a boxer, as the pistons do not reach top dead center at the same time. In addition, a 6 cylinder boxer should have the pistons clocked 120 degrees apart, which would have been impossible to do with the parts at the time. With all of the advanced parts introduced since 1980, I was able to correct both of these issues. Now, the engine is a proper boxer, with the pistons clocked 120 degrees apart. Aside from that, there is one other major functional difference. On the original model, the distributor is just a rotating shaft that does not actually do anything. On my model, I was able to add a rotating contact piece that connects to each of the spark plug wires in sequence. The engine also has a belt driven fan, just like the original. My model also features the detailed exhaust pipes and spark plug wires. As for scale, I think my model is about 50% larger, given that I used 3 stud diameter pistons, versus the 2 stud pistons of the original. But, the scale increase allowed me to make the crankshaft and pistons much more realistic and functional. Believe it or not, the fan was actually one of the biggest sticking points for me in terms of what to use. No brick built fan felt right, so I used the fan tail from 8068, which is actually a repurposed wheel cover. Unlike the original, the belts are configured in such a way that they can be added easily, without any bent paper clips. Size comparison with 42123. My engine is roughly the same width, and about 2/3rds the length. LDD cutaway to show the crankshaft. Video:(No Sound) So, that's my entry, a new version of the 858 Boxer engine.
  4. I have started building the 8846 Tow truck studless remake for the "[TC20] Technic Studless Recreation Contest" I have started with the front axle: As you can see, I will use a bit wider tires, also It will be one stud wider, so it will be 13, not 12 studs wide. Then, I have built the rear axle, and almost finished the chassis. This is all progress for now, more in next post.
  5. Hello I'd like to present my small-scale RC semi truck. It has PF Servo, XL motor and sbrick mounted in the cab/frame and the battery is neatly mounted in the trailer that also has a two-stage ramp driven by single L motor and Technic strings. The cables go through the hole in trailer saddle (big turntable) to connect sbrick with battery and ramp motor with sbrick at the back of sleeping cab. Full gallery: There is an alternate configuration for potential standalone/without trailer use: Hope you'll like it :)
  6. Hello fellow Technic fans, let me present to you my tribute model to the well known, iconic set 8880 As a new member I should introduce myself, but I did that already in the forum designed for the very purpose so I just link that here http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134093 and we can jump to the main subject. I've been encouraged by a commenter on youtube who is a member here to share this MOC of mine on this forum as maybe this will give you a rest after the frustration caused by the much anticipated 42056. Don't get it wrong, I don't mean to fill the gap it left (I read the topic too and share the feeling), but hopefully can give you a few minutes of entertainment. I admit it is a sensitive piece of history to touch, but I hope you recognize that the respect towards the original model what was driving my hands while I was designing this plastic homage. Probably some of you have already seen the video on the youtube. For those who didn't let me link it: Instead of making a new description I'll use the one that I made for the vid and pepper it with some images: The original set 8880 has been released in 1994. Sadly that time I was living my dark age (life without lego). Now it's been 4 years that I got back in business, dark age is over and this set is weightly responsible for that change in my life. First I was just reading about it on Blackbird page. Long story short I could manage to get one, and as an old school lego fan (being child in the 80's) it straight enchanted me and determined probably my whole life (hobbywise at least). In the same time I really admire the modern studdless system of lego and it inevitably ended up in the demand in me to build a studless version of it. I've built it first in 2013, but in lack of sources (parts and talent) it wasn't really desirable, nor "smart". Since then I keep rebuilding it time to time and always ends up better and better. According this I wouldn't say this is the last or the best of it, but at the moment this is the stage of its evolution. This is where the name I gave came from. A few words about the details: Body: As you can see I did not use panels but kept the wireframe like appearance as it is one of the benchmark of the original set. Speaking of which I have to admit I did change the shape of the front a lot, even eliminated the concealed headlights due to the feeling that time has passed and it's not cool anymore. But to pay back what I took, I've designed a hood what follows the geometrical concept of the boot. If you listen closer, when the hood opens, the headlights are sliding backward. Rest of the body I think speaks for itself. Interior: Not much to say about it, seats, dash , keeping the colour scheme. Gearbox: Now that is a tricky one. That was the first problem I've been facing with as due to the size of the model I needed a narrow 4 speed gearbox with central differential, but I could not find a decent one anywhere. Crowkillers Paul had the 6 speeder, but it was too wide for my car and Sariel's 4 speeder has been designed for two wheel drive. So I've spent the next month and a half to develop a new one from scratch. Of course if there is a central diff it should be lockable, so it is. And it makes a very compact structure with the gearbox itself what comes handy in modular building. Edit: that was years back. From here it seems rediculously long time, but I let you decide. Here is a deidcated video about this gearbox: Steering: Unlike in the original, there is no ackermann geometry in my model, but please blame lego as it is the field where the part developement goes backward. Anyway the front steering is pretty simple, but for the rear I had to use a rod mechanism, since the compact gearbox left no room for an axle to go trough without compromising the aesthetics. It comes however with certain benefits, as with minor modification on the linking can change the steering lock of the rear wheels. I've applied the smalest as I've found it more realistic. The real life 4 wheel steered cars have only 3-5 degrees on the rear. Ground clearence adjustment: No witchcraft, a worm gear and an 8 tooth gear paired up on each wheel to lift and lower the shockers trough an axle. That's it. Friend of my accidentally discovered (by opening the boot) that this coupe can be converted easily to a hatchback... To be honest I did not consider this as a requirement when I was designing the model. I've made a couple of colour variations too as it appeared above. There is more hi-res pics on my brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=562855 Building Insructions: Feel free to share your opinion or ask about it Thank you for your attention. Attika
  7. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  8. _TLG_

    [MOC] Street racer

    Hello, let's start the race! It is my own hypercar concept with a minifigure. I reused some details of my earlier idea called "Hypercar concept 1", but I wanted to build this car even more dynamic. It is a studless model built from standard LEGO elements. The overall size is similar to the Speed Champions sets, but the wheels are from City sets as I wanted to keep the height to length ratio closer to the real sports cars. If you like this car, please share and support it on Lego Ideas: Many thanks! Street racer 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Street racer 04 by László Torma, on Flickr
  9. Hello Speed Champions fans, Trabant 601 is a legendary car of Eastern and Central Europe. This is its studless model in Speed Champions scale. If you like it, please keep alive this project and support on Lego Ideas to become a real set (only 3 supporters are missing in the next hours to reach the first milestone): I wanted to create a relatively accurate model, and some details were challenging in this small size. Firstly I needed smaller wheels than my other builds in this scale, the size of the actual ones are equal to the Mini Cooper (Lego 75894) ones. It was clear too that the City mudgards will not fit to this size, therefore I created a brickbuilt one. The connection of the wheels are tricky a bit which helps to keep the room between the wheels and the mudguard proportional. I wanted to create an accurate front, and I added simple white stickers to the direction indicator lamps to keep the orange parts visible on the front only. The most common colors of this car are the light blue and white (broken white). I decided to use white pieces as the roof element of Mini Cooper (part 6018101) is ideal as hood and roof, and I have this item only in this color. The rear of the car is a bit tricky too as I wanted tilted lights similarly to the real ones. The back lights could be red transparent elements, but I was not able to buy them in that color. I had to buy some elements of "brick, modified, 6191" to the sides too, and it was available only with "Nitro" stickers, but my son said that these stickers are cool, so I kept them. I wanted to use as less stickers as possible as I don't really like them, because they restrain the applicability the stickered elements in different builds. There is picture without the "Nitro" sticker and an other one without any stickers. The set includes a minifigure with a baseball hat and with an additinal red helmet. Trabant 601 by László Torma, on Flickr 02 Trabant 601 by László Torma, on Flickr 03 Trabant 601 by László Torma, on Flickr 04 Trabant 601 by László Torma, on Flickr 05 Trabant 601 by László Torma, on Flickr 06 Trabant 601 without Nitro sticker by László Torma, on Flickr 07 Trabant 601 without any stickers by László Torma, on Flickr My other Speed Champions scale model in "LEGO Town" forum is the Audi R8:
  10. Hello Speed Champions fans, my son asked me to build a white Audi R8. Both of us like the Speed Champions sets, therefore I choosen this scale. If you like it, you can support it on Lego Ideas: It is a studless build from standard lego elements and modified City wheels are used instead of Speed Champions ones to keep the height to length ratio more realistic similarly to my earlier ideas. The front of this car is iconic and it was a real challenge to recreate it in this small size. I made lots of versions and I think the actual one with a tricky solution is the best. I tried more solutions to the black side blades too, the actual one was inspired by "LEGO Audi R8 instructions (MOC #96)" by "Jerry Builds Bricks" on Youtube, however I modifed it a bit as I wanted tilted blades similarly to the real ones. Only one sticker is used which is the Audi logo on the front as I'm generally not a fan of the parts with stickers, because of the lack of flexibility in using them with other builds. The set includes the minifigure shown on the main picture on the Lego Ideas. It comes form the set 75873 but with red helmet. I have added a rear wing to make the car more dynamic. It differs from the custom Audi wings, but I think it fits to the style of the car and to the side mirrors. Audi_R8-04 by László Torma, on Flickr Audi_R8-05 by László Torma, on Flickr Audi_R8-02 by László Torma, on Flickr Audi_R8-03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  11. _TLG_

    [MOC] Rally Bug

    Baby Porsche or VW Beetle tuning? This is a fictitious race car, I hope you like it :) You can support it on Lego Ideas: It is a studless build in Speed Champions scale, but with City wheels. I used only standard LEGO elements, the slopes with stickers are part of the set called 1968 Ford Mustang. Baby Porsche 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Baby Porsche 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Baby Porsche 03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  12. _TLG_

    [MOC] Hybrid Truck

    Hello, It is my own Hybrid Truck creation, which is called hybrid because it combines standard LEGO elements with a DUPLO car base. It is built from my kids' sets, and I tried to combine these elements just for fun, but I was very satisfied with the result. It is a studless, conventional cab tractor with a car trailer for Speed Champions size cars, but other type of trailers could be used too. It can be combined with my other MOC "Hypercar concept 1". If you like this truck, please share and support the it on LEGO IDEAS: Many thanks! Hybrid Truck 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Hybrid Truck 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Hybrid Truck 07 by László Torma, on Flickr Hybrid Truck 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Hybrid Truck 04 by László Torma, on Flickr
  13. _TLG_

    [MOC] Hypercar Concept 1

    Hello, feel the speed! It is my own hypercar concept inspired by real hyper and supercars. It is a 6 studs wide, studless model built from standard LEGO elements. The overall size is similar to the Speed Champions sets, but the wheels are from City sets as I wanted to keep the height to length ratio closer to the real sports cars. It can be combined with my other MOC Hybrid Truck which will be available on LEGO IDEAS soon too. If you like this car, please share and support the it on LEGO IDEAS: Many thanks! LEGO Hypercar concept1-02 by László Torma, on Flickr LEGO Hypercar concept1-01 by László Torma, on Flickr LEGO Hypercar concept1-03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  14. It's finally here - my studless remake of the very first Technic helicopter: It's been a bit of a long journey to get here, not only because of the work put into this model, but also because of the many failed TC15 entry ideas... Originally, I had planed on building a replica of the Hoversurf S3 2019 Hoverbike (which is basically a quadcopter you can ride on), but the small size of Lego propellers restricted me to such a small size, that I just couldn't fit any functions into it. Next, continuing the idea of some sort of quadcopter, I did some googling for other quadrotor aircraft, and although I managed to find some (in particular, the Curtiss-Wright VZ-7 and X-19), that idea also failed... Then, after a few days of thinking, I decided to just make something completely different - a flight simulator, based on the 8485 Technic Control Center. With this idea, I actually managed to make enough progress to post a WIP topic, and stuck with it for a several weeks, until I sadly had to abandon that as well... Finally, after trying and abandoning a few other ideas, and with only a few weeks left before the contest deadline, I stumbled across the idea of making a modern studless version of set 852 - the very first Technic helicopter, and one of the original four Technic sets released in 1977: Fast forward 3 weeks, the contest deadline has thankfully extended by 2 weeks (thanks @Jim ), and I've finally finished building... Features: Full studless construction - not a single stud in sight! Near perfect 3/4 scale (relative to the original set). Accurate collective rotor pitch control - unlike the original, where the rotor pitch is decreased when the swash plate rises. Manually powered drive train - can also be motorized, as seen in the video. Video: Instructions: (click on the image below to go to the Rebrickable page ) Links: Entry topic post Bricksafe (more photos and digital model files) Rebrickable (instructions) YouTube Original Set on Technicopedia Original Set on Brickset Renders: (made with Blender) Original post: All WIP photos:
  15. After three months of iterating upon its design in LDD, 111.34 Australian dollars and half an hour of building, my McLaren F1 is complete! The total number of parts is approximately individual 165 pieces (this includes wheels and tyres being counted as separate parts), and two of the main body pieces (leading up to the rear wheel arches) come from a 130 dollar LEGO set. There is not an angle that the McLaren F1 has that isn't iconic. From its rounded, short rear-end and taillights to its slim front nose, the car's entire design philosophy was based solely on how light its designers could get it to be - and even then, they weren't happy. What supercar is complete without some rich guy in his freshly-pressed (and very plasticy, in this case) suit and suitcase? It fits a minifigure! Barely. LDD likes to assume you can phase parts together, so while I was able to add a minifigure and let it sit comfortably in LDD, I'm forced to remove the minifigure's hair/hat/etc for it to fit in real life. To say it's a tight squeeze is an understatement. I saved the best for last, so, of course, what McLaren F1 would be complete without a "Longtail"? Images are hosted on MOC-Pages, and will be used in my page when it goes live: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/429852 Stores pilfered to construct this MOC: SwissBrickPlanet 2AM Brick Store BrickComplete AFOL Supply WLWYB Thanks for the excellent prices & parts!
  16. 8860 Studless remote controlled flashback. 5speed with reverse. I still need seats. This is my MOC, not the one by crowkillers. Instructions is being made and shall be uploaded to rebrickable
  17. Me and my husband made this car, it is a studless Test car 8865. We call it Test car 8865 Revival. Me and my husband have the same hobby. It has 746 parts. We made instructions. Here they are and they are free: UNPAINTED MOTOR AND RIMS:
  18. My husband got the idea to build a studless version of 8859 made in 1981. We made it together and here it is with youtubevideo and instructions and photos. Free nstructions here:
  19. Hello, I’s been a long time ago Since I presented something here so it’s time to change it Few months ago there were a competition on our local LugPol forum where the goal was to remake a Technic set made before 2000 into studless model. I decided to take on workshop 8858 Rebel Wrecker. Beside my creation there were other two Rebels submitted. You can check all participants here: After all my remake of 8858 won in the category of more than 200, but less than 500 pieces. I have to say that it is not so easy to recreate a set into studless version. I told myself to keep all important points where things like suspension are mounded in the same place as in original set. So almost all dimensions stayed unchanged (e.g wheelbase, hood length, etc.) The main difference between original and my version is width. Old sets had even number of studs in wide, nowadays it’s an odd number. So my Rebel is 1 stud wider. When it comes to overall appearance I tried to make it as close as possible to the original but stay into modern style using liftarms instead of plates and bricks. Of course I had to change some kind of colours so for example Light Gray is replaced by LBG. One thing that I keep unchanged is front steering system. Yes, the small gear rack is present but for example 8048 which was released few years ago still has the same solution so I think that it’s fine to use it as well. Of course functionality of the model is the same as studfull, so working V6 engine and self locking rear winch is present. I am quite happy about this model. I made everything as I wanted, everything works, it took a first place so what to want more Below there is a video, and link to BS gallery. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561705 Greetings, Patrick.
  20. There have been a number of topics dedicated to the studless vs. studded discussion, but I'm more interested in uniting the two paradigms. I really like the new possibilities that studless building gives me, but I also like the look of studded models. The combination is wonderful, as builder like e.g. like 2LegoOrNot2Lego, Erik Leppen, M_Longer and others show. So I'm interested in learning techniques on how to combine the two. In particular, how do you deal with the odd vs. even number of studs along the width of your model? Parts like are useful, but I guess there's many more possibilities. Can you share some? Illustrated examples are welcomed
  21. TC8 Folding Crane (not yet finished) I think it's about time to show what I have been secretly working on in the past weeks. It's not done yet, but it's getting there and I feel that this time, things might just work out. As you can see, it's not finished. The biggest question mark right now for me is, where to put the winch that will unfold the jib. There's no room anywhere! :D Of course, I'll be showing the unfolded state later (when everything works). So, what does it do? The carrier has two functions: 1. steering on all axles, driven from a gear on the back. Central axle has half the angle of the other two. 2. outriggers, all connected, driven from a gear on the back. Outriggers are the same system as those in 8460. There's no engine - no room. Slewing the superstructure is the same mechanism as 8421 - manual. The superstructure has two winches. 1. lifting the main boom 2. extending the main boom Both are worm-driven, to prevent backdriving. A third winch has to be fitted somewhere to unfold the jib. This will probably end up somewhere on the boom - there's no space on the supersturcutre to add a third worm-driven winch. Unless, maybe, I sacrifice the paneling. Last jib section has to be put on by hand. The actual crane winch and hook are also still to do. Might be that I make the last jib section a bit shorter to keep things in proportion a bit. Also, the controls for the crane winch might also be simple and close to the function itself. Controlling everything from the base is simply not possible. Sets do this too, so I don't see it as a problem. Building a decently-working folding crane is high on my wish-list for quite some time (think years), so I really hope I can get everything to work this time. I all goes well, I might do instructions (but without the strings). I keep a digital file, which tells me I'm at about 1400 parts right now. Any tips are welcome, especially as to where to put that winch :P
  22. For the past two months I've been building my entry for the Enforces vs. Bandits competition, and it has finally arrived! Enforcers - Valuable Transport My source of inspiration is an actual valuable transport truck that I once saw driving over the Dutch highways: which led me to think: how cool would it be to hide some sort of advanced weaponry in there and have it fold open? First I thought about folding open the container, but in the end it's the entire truck that folds open. Also, the weapons I envisioned were different from what they have become, but the main idea is still there. So, the specs: Manual functions First of all, three of the four axles have steering. The third axle is idle, but has double tyres. I used the same steering linkage as D3K did in his Midi-scale pneumatic crane truck (with his permission), but I reinforced it, sacrificing some ground clearance. Another feature is that the doors of the cabin can open. Electric functions The truck houses the normal battery box driving an M motor. This drives a gearbox that operates three functions: transformation rotating the turrets raising/lowering the guns Transformation Getting the transformation to work was the biggest challenge. The entire sides of the truck are panels that are hinged at the bottom. Via a worm gear system they are deployed outwards. Also, the seats will rotate so that they face the weaponry, so that the driver can operate them. Because of the weight of the side panels, transforming back into transport mode takes well over a minute... Armament In battle mode, the truck shows two turrets carrying two guns, having three bullets each (making the total ammo 12). Via the gearbox the turrets can rotate together, and the guns can be raised. A spring-loaded mechanism is used to shoot. No specialized parts have been used, except the standard dark-gray 9.5L springs from set 8880. Shooting is done manually by rotating the knob wheels. The bullets are white 1x5 beams. Here's a computer image of all the functions. And, of course, the video.
  23. Here's my work in progress for the Sbrick contest. The plan to build this was actually before the contest was announced, but I didn't actually start building until januari, just had a rough draft in my head until then. I usuallly don't post WIP stuff, but since I solved the problems I had with this build (and there were many, but more on that later), I feel confident enough to post a little about it. It has the following functions: 2x L motor for drive (and steering obviously ) 2x M motor for the arms The M motors will also fulfill another role, but I am keeping that as a surprise for now. I tried to "hide" the 2 IR recievers in Wall-E's front. He has a display there too where the black tops of the recievers pop, though it isn't as wide as this and the battery meter suffered a little because of it. Of course with an Sbrick you can make a proper display, but I think this works pretty well for a purist As you can see I still need to make a neck and a head, but the groundwork inside is ready to build that so I don't expect much problems with it (yes, I totally jinxed myself). Also, the white wheels in the tracks are temporary. I ordered grey ones from BL, which already shipped and I hope to recieve them some time next week. A little glimpse of the insides: You can also see Jeroen Ottens' awesome little microphones. Why did I used those? The regular ball pins or balls with axle would touch and block each other if both M motors run, these do not. Besides cramming in 1 batterybox, 2 IR recievers, 2 L motors and 2 M Motors I also used a gearbox based on this principle: I found this type of gearbox while looking around on the web trying to figure out what would be cool (and compact) to use in my model. No need for me to come up with my own gearbox when there are so many good ones online after all I chose this one because it meant I could always control 5-6 functions without knowing which gear was selected in the gearbox, which adds to the playability imo. I am aware there alot of Lego Wall-E's out there, ALOT. I know, I saw most of them when looking around And of course the Lego Ideas Wall-E that is incoming. Though that guy needs to explain to me how 5L tracks fit in a 10L wide body when Wall-E wants to transform into a box. I do think however I made a Wall-E that's different than most, for the simple reason it is build 90-95% from studless Technic. All others either have Technic bricks combined with Sytem bricks or are build from System bricks. It wasn't a goal to design a studless Wall-E though, it just came to be during the build and I tried to solve stuff as much as possible with studless Technic since then while still looking clean. Though I am unsure if this studless approach works for the hands, perhaps I should make them from System bricks. The hands do function like Wall-E's real hands though and can be set in fixed positions thanks to friction pins and 3L axles with stop. For the top cover I didn't want to add another layer of liftarms since it felt "too high" for the scale of the model, but I couldn't used thin liftarms either unless I wanted a swiss cheese look for the top, so I went with Syetem tiles to provide a clean smooth top. I actually wanted to make a transforming Wall-E but still have drive and moveable arms and whatnot, but I simply can't build that at this scale (*looks at all that PF blocking the places where the tracks and head would need to go in to be a Wall-E box*). Speaking of scale, I took a little bit of liberty with that. Simple example: 5L tracks, 13L wide body. Which makes technical sense to me when looking at his transformation in the movie (I watched it again for "research" before I actually started this build ). 13L wide body means 1L for the sides and 1L for inbetween the 5L tracks, those spaces are there in the movie so they are there in my model. I also wanted the rear wheels in the tracks to be a little bigger. I even considered Unimog rims, but those don't play nice with tracks. I am open for suggestions for bigger rims that play nice with tracks, though I do consider these to be ok (hence why I ordered them in grey ). Fun fact: every (and I mean EVERY!) part has been at least rebuild two times. I think I even took the rear cover apart about 8 times, the centre 3 times, arm mechanisms 4 times, tracks have been rebuild 4 times. Though the last track revision was simply to scale it up with bigger rear rims, since I had smaller ones in there first which looked too small with the rest of the model. All other revisions were basically reinforcing the structure to prevent any gear slips. I solved the last of those gear slips today and the model is very rigid now and works perfectly. Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's dark outside Hope you guys like it so far. More to come.
  24. Last days, I've made this micro scale Futuron base, the Research Compound. Dimensions: width: 18 studs length: 18 studs The Futuron base contains a monorail, spaceship, sattelite and a landing platform pictures: 01_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 02_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 03_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 04_Monorail by LegoMathijs, on Flickr hope you like it :) pictures also on Flickr:
  25. As the title says, which construction style of Technic is better, studded or studless? Look at the poll, and sound off. I couldn't get a poll to work, so could the mods please delete this.