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Found 283 results

  1. Poor ship. I have to say, I am not a huge fan of its looks. It is like an UPS truck, or a beat-down cab in poorer part of the city. Gets the job done and offers just minimal creature comforts. On top of that this particular ship had no easy life either. If I had to write all the accidents it had I'd basically describe half or more of the story of the Mandalorian show, so to avoid spoilers - go watch it yourself. For now just believe me: Millennium Falcon had really easy and nice life compared to the Razor Crest. I did not plan to build it initially, but Brickvault guys asked me one time if I would and I agreed. After all this is quite a small ship, right? And boxy, easy shape, right? So I'll just do a month or maybe month-and-half detour from my plan, riiight? Oh boy. This aged like milk. We talked in May and, uh, I am not done yet, but more on that later :D This one-and-half month detour took half of the year, almost 5k pieces and was far harder than I expected it would be. Once again, an angular thing proves to be far more difficult in LEGO than a curved one. Got a tiny angle wrong and everything falls apart. And the size? Just about 70 studs. Yeah. There goes "quite a small ship". Btw, would you consider it an UCS or minifig scale, considering it is... kinda... both? So what do we have here? 5k pieces, a bit over 3 kilos of mass, plenty of features, internal frame strong enough to do this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP6ZbI-UJ09F5vPPMEbTkF1L9q2EZkMnegT8EbEC4fFMUba0WqZii3KR3Pcg_Waag/photo/AF1QipOPONHBr-6ATUGQnvs1n3uJr-Gy7C0HCNvY79DY?key=MmRXMFNjTFVIU3Rmekg3UTZqOUhvTEY1MzB3TUxB I had some fun at, uh, "temporary local beach" (on quite a high floor!) ...and on the Levitating Plate: All the hatches open: there are also additional hatches to access interior details. Truth to be told, access is not great. This is not really a play model because it is so heavy, but you can adjust stuff inside. The cockpit seats three, front seat folds for easy access to the back row: ...and of course there's plenty of space for Mando's quarries: So, why is it not done yet? I probably got the roof angle wrong. Actually, I definitely got it wrong. But is it a big deal? What do you think? Should I just proceed with instructions "as-is" or would like to see this updated? Or maybe you actually like this slightly slanted roof section? Instructions will be available on brickvault when complete, and there's a nice preorder for reduced price for now: https://www.brickvault.toys/products/razorcrest ------------------------------------------------------------ Razor Crest Update #1! I believe that's final design. Roof is now properly flattened, while still retaining minscule but noticeable wing angle, section behind the cockpit has been changed for better shape, and engines were updated thanks to ScottishDave's input on Eurobricks. Now I need to update the studio model (not too hard, should be few hours at worst) and I can get to making instructions. In the meantime, Brickvault will commence their internal review to ensure there are no flaws in the model, parts lists or instructions. I'd like to thank everyone who preordered, commented and liked - fantastic support from you all! Stay tuned for future updates! Thanks for viewing! EDIT: The instructions are released - to be found on brickvault.toys !
  2. My contribution for this years Octrainber "Critters" is Vollert Robot DER 100 "Leonhard Weiss", a tiny little modern shunter engine I saw the other day in real live traveling from Stuttgart to Nürnberg in Germany. A quick google search brought me to www.eisenbahndienstfahrzeuge.de with some pictures and additional information about this a bit strange looking "thing" on rails. The shape looks a bit odd but it might be a challenge for a LEGO model, especially the dark grey triangle next to the front windows. But yes, not another KÖF, but something modern. And Circuitcubes Bluetooth controlled mini motors are waiting here to be used in a train MOC. The prototype was build by the German company Vollert. Vollert does offer a few shunting robots from very tiny to mid sized locomotives. The Robot DER 100 has a total length of 5,45 m and a total weight of approx. 44 tons. It has a pulling capacity of 2,400 tons. This robot is powered either electric (cable or battery) or diesel-electric. As option it can operate in explosive atmosphere environments, e.g. chemical plants. The version I saw is operated by the German construction and building company Leonhard Weiss which is well known in railway construction. The LEGO MOC also will be powered by battery electric but I will not pull 2,400 tons of rolling stock ;-) But it will (hopefully) offer enough space for at least 2 Curcuitcube mini motors to power the drive and as special function a decoupling unit. If this works, I will get a remote controlle shunter with a high play value. Attaching a small linear actuator directly to the motor seems to work. Now I need to squeeze in everything in the dark grey/yellow body of the Vollert Robot shunter. A few years ago I already integrated a decoupling unit powered with PF in a 12 Volt MOC engine. So I already have some knowledge to integrate LEGO set 7862 in a locomotive. Stay tuned for the further development of my LEGO version of the Vollert Robot DER 100 ...
  3. Hello, it´s OcTRAINber-Time.... WIP story and progress of "my" Köf II: I wanted to build a Köf for a long time. Yes, I know, it's not a special locomotive and has been done well in Lego. But not by me. From the beginning, it was clear to me: a locomotive must be able to drive alone, not a freight car with an engine behind it as a drive! This is not really feasible for a Köf in scale 1:41 with pure Lego means. 9V motor would be a solution, but since I am not a 9V driver, have 0 track material for it, the 9V solution is out for me. All known conversions with PF/PF Lego Technic are too big for me and would not fit to scale next to my other models. About a week ago came the announcement for the competition OcTRAINber 2021: small shunting locomotives or maintenance cars etc. were the topic. I combine: I have an unused Circuit Cube engine lying in front of me, I want to build a Köf and there is just a suitable Wettberb. Ok, then I'll build the Köf now and put other topics on the back burner for now. Ok, let's go.... at the beginning is the research. The Köf II is really very small. Link to a sketch, I come there in my scale to about 16 studs length without buffers / coupler Circuit Cube + motor is small, but somehow the Köf II is even smaller. So I thought about the placement of the motor. The first try went wrong. The motor builds up too deep at the bottom and grinds on the top of the rail. This does not work with switches and level crossings. Ok, so set the motor higher and roughly mark out the outer edges. The disadvantage of this motor position are the many necessary gears (friction losses), the advantage is, I can drive both axes. You can also see nicely how small the Köf is to become. One day later: I didn't like the many gears and I also had a crazy idea for the front. It needs space and therefore the engine has to give way: Motor is now 90° tilted. I have fewer gears in use and can still drive both axles. Nice. But the installation there is also difficult and I need MORE space on top for pretty design.... So radically new approach thought out. Motor comes down again, but turned to the side, so that it has 1/2 plate distance to the top of the rail. Advantage: one gear less (even less is not possible^^), both axles can be driven, lots of space on the top. Disadvantage: does it hold? The whole thing is also not so nice from a constructional point of view, because I have to leave the grid inside for the motor, too. The cabin sits all the time also already 1/2 plate in the grid shifted (in height), so that everything becomes very interesting. This was the moment when I also had to test the whole thing with real stones: yes, it works and the thing drives: Now I have a LOT of ;-) Space and can be filled with stupid ideas. But that's another story.... Thomas
  4. Hi all, Being a steel and mining industry aficionado anyway, this year’s OcTRAINber contest struck a chord. So I chose to design a 1/33 gauge 1 model of a coke quenching locomotive. A… what???? Please bear with me if I’m not going to explain the industrial cokery process here; it’s too complicated to do this in a foreign language. Anyway, the thing is: There are special locomotives for that process. They are usually very small, electric, and typically characterized by a bizarrely elevated cab and lateral pantographs. Here’s a drawing of the prototype I chose, a locomotive that was built by Jung in 1927 for the „Zeche Sachsen“ colliery in Heessen (now part of Hamm) in Germany: You’ll immediately recognize the main problem: The engine is extremely narrow and, as if this wasn’t enough, has an outer frame covering the wheels. In 1/33 scale, the frame and locomotive body have to be 8 studs wide, while the outer edges of the wheels already are 7 studs apart… that gave me some serious headache. But finally I found a solution. Here’s what the digital sketch looks like at the moment: Rather sparse interior – after all, all the engine has to do is to shuffle back and forth on a single straight track… The model is fully motorized with a PF M-motor, a BuWizz (only a brick-built dummy in the picture) and a worm gear for slooooooooow shunting: Now I’ll have to gather parts, start building and hope that I’ll be able to finish until November 15th… Thanks for stopping by! Sven
  5. With my Ripsaw Tank MOC essentially done by now (just waiting for some final pieces to arrive) and my PAB order for my New Flyer XD60 articulated bus model still yet to arrive (with more pieces coming for that), I've decided to start another MOC in the meantime. This will be my second model combining Control+ and Robot Inventor after my Heavy Duty Skid-steer Loader. It will have two identical axles, each with a steering motor (medium angular motor) to control steering, and thanks to their absolute positioning feature I don't think I'll have to calibrate it every time, like on e.g. the 42099 set. I was originally planning to use Control+ L motors for the steering, and have this be a Control+ MOC, but found the medium angular motor to fit better with the absolute positioning being another plus. I plan on creating a control profile in the Mindstorms app with different sliders for normal, crab, and 4-wheel steering modes. The drivetrain consists of heavy-duty differentials and planetary hubs, so this eliminates the need for significant gearing down inside the chassis. For propulsion, I plan to use 2 Control+ XL motors, with a fake engine driven by a separate motor. This way, the fake engine can run at all times and there will be less friction in the drivetrain. I anticipate building the chassis to be pretty straightforward, as the entire chassis is essentially a mirror image with two identical axles. As for the bodywork, I'm leaning towards a red car-like body. If so, I will probably name this MOC "Red Beryl C", where "C" is for Crawler. It would be the third model in my Red Beryl series, after my Red Beryl GT of 2018 and Red Beryl X of 2019. Let me know what you think, and any suggestions you may have. Photos: The front axle, with planetary hubs, long shock absorbers, and a medium angular motor for steering: The front axle, with the wheels attached. Note that this is the underside, with the heavy-duty differential visible:
  6. Normally I'm a slow builder and have no chance finishing something within such a short time. Still full of impressions from our last visit to the RhB in Graubünden/Switzerland I started thinking about a "Baudiensttraktor TM 2/2 92" - a MOW vehicle. Unfortunately my prototype does no longer exist and I have not seen this in real life. I only have external links: e.g. www.beretta-modelle.ch/gleisbaumaschinen/html/body_rhb_tm... First design is 6x10 studs with Cicuit Cubes motor, running on 4 wide "narrow gauge" tracks. This is as small as I could build - with motorization: In stud.io the black/grey front thingy (what is the English word for it?) touches the rails. So I wanted to test if this is a problem in the real world. I'm using LEGO rubber bands for almost all my builds to get more traction - and these make the (tiny) difference. So my vehicle can move without touching the rails. But I was unhappy with the proportions. The front of the prototype almost looks like a square. My tractor looked too narrow. So I started with 8x12. Again I wanted to make sure it can handle switches and does not touch the rails: So the basic design seems finished - but it needs more details While searching for missing parts I need to order, I noticed that the 1x2 tile with the diagonal stripe pattern does not exist I do not know what sticker I used during import in to stud.io. So I need to use a different part with existing pattern or make a custom sticker. I do not know if this is a legal "thirs party part".
  7. General MOC-Discussion Ahoy! Ever felt like there's not enough general talk going on here about what matters most in these waters - MOCs? Ever got frustrated over a certain issue with a WIP that you could need help with? Ever thought about posting a WIP but didn't think it would deserve its own thread? Ever wanted to announce a huge, mind boggling, or simply your next project and ask your fellow EB members what they think about that idea? Or have you ever just felt the urge to tease everyone with a blurred picture of your creation or some facts about it before releasing it for good? Well, hesitate no further, this is the place for you! Use this thread as a vessel for all the otherwise unmentioned MOC related talk, use it to discuss sail sizes and capstan designs, ask for ideas, help others with their MOC issues and tease your fellow mateys... with pics of your creations, of course
  8. Hey guys, here is a long-anticipated project of mine that I'm finally starting. It is a model of NJ Transit's 2020 New Flyer XD60 articulated bus. My model will be fully motorized, with remote-controlled drive, steering, and opening doors. It'll be either controlled by the PF IR system or by SBrick. The model will be propelled by a PF XL motor, which is already in place. The power source is a PF 8878 battery sitting in the very rear of the chassis. So far I have the rear portion of the chassis built - just missing most of the seats. I've already been building the model digitally on Stud.io for about a month, mostly working on the chassis, so this part should be done relatively soon. However, this is not taking into consideration any potential issues that may arise as I build the chassis in real life. I also have prototypes for the doors' and bellows' mechanisms ready (not pictured), and they seem to work pretty well. So overall, it'll just be a matter of putting these mechanisms together into a coherent chassis. Aesthetics wise, my model will mostly be about the outside appearance, which means I'll focus much more on the bodywork than the interior details-wise. However, the seating layout will still be identical to the original bus, with a total of 59 seats. This is definitely a project I'm really looking forward to. It'll be the first time I model a particular real-life vehicle. I'm a huge fan of NJ Transit's buses and buses in general, and these artics IMO are some of the best buses they've ordered in recent years. And because I'm doing a digital build while simultaneously building in real life, I plan on publishing instructions for this MOC when it's finished. Photo:
  9. Rockstaremcee

    What did you BUILD today?

    As simple as it sounds, what did you build today? You can be as vague or specific as you like. This is just for fun. Did you spend the evening creating, tearing down, and recreating a small part in your MOC? (i.e. archway, tree, etc) Did you build the Modular/ UCS/ desirable set that you finally acquired but had not yet built? Did you spend the day just sorting bricks? Are you planning/designing/drawing your next build? Creating a new set in Lego Digital Designer or stud.io? ========================================================================================= To start it off: I worked on 71741 Ninjago City Gardens, for the 5th evening and finished the 2nd (of 3) instruction book.
  10. Si-MOCs

    WIP feedback thread

    LEGO Sci-Fi universal WIP feedback thread. Do you have a Work In Progress (WIP) build that isn't working ? Do you have a problem that you can't just figure out how to get the look that you want? Did you create something but not sure how to use it? Do you want to help out a fellow builders? Then this this thread is for you! During the great EB oppsies of 2012, one of the discussions had off forums was the creation for a universal WIP thread that everyone could post what they were working on, this helps clean up the forums a bit, as well as provide a proper and centralized location where people could get some help on what they were working on. So EVERYONE post away! Throw in things you're working on and our esteemed Sci-Fi members will chime in and help you the best we can. I'll start! This was an attempt at a micro-ship / drone.... WIP micro ship drone thingy by Si-MOCs, on Flickr I've had this thing sitting on my desk for awhile, it had promise, but I just couldn't really get it to a point where I liked it. The idea was almost a bio-ship that felt a bit like armadillo armouring, with some asymmetrical striping. But it's kinda just a blob... Anyone got any ideas? or just scrap it? ...
  11. DarthMario

    [WIP] The Orville (Help Needed)

    I am currently trying to build The Orville, and before I got too deep into he process, I wanted to see if the engines were even possible to do in Lego while staying true to the shape of the actual ship. I have had minor success; I have the oval shape, but the part I am stuck on is how to make the outer edge higher than the inner edge. I am trying to avoid huge gaps between the angles because the ship has extremely sleek lines and that would ruin the aesthetic. Here is what I have so far in terms of a proof of concept: Reference model: here
  12. Greetings, shipwrights. Whether a novice, an apprentice, a master, or a veteran shipwright, following the process of others, sharing your own, and giving and receiving feedback can help everyone improve. What's the point? This is just a place for all of us liberally to post WIP's for feedbacks, tips, suggestions, and questions, without otherwise littering the BoBS forum with WIP's. You can post just one step in the process, or several over a period. It's all up to you. So I am working on a vessel/ship - what do I do? Post one or more pictures, questions, ship-plans, descriptions, etc. here, and hopefully someone will step in with some wonderful advice. At least, I expect to do so. I know NOTHING about ships - can I comment, and how do I do? Everyone with something constructive to say can comment. No need to be a scholar in historic vessels, medieval carpentry or sail making. Sometimes it might just be aesthetics, a crazy idea, a suggestion for a technique, use of a specific brick, or whatever you can think of. Just keep it nice and constructive. In return, builders posting here will pwomise not to take offense! I'd suggest tagging the builder you are commenting on. But I am not an expert - the arrogant elite will laugh at my puny attempts at shipbuilding! First of all, the arrogant elite was not invited. In fact, they have been given specific instructions to go back to their fancy little elitist coffee houses to talk about how brilliant they are. Secondly, regarding puny attempts, take a look at my first attempt at a ship just two and a half years ago... Well, you really don't have to look. Move along... Nothing to see here... The rather obvious point being, we all start somewhere, and no matter where you start, or how steep your learning curve is. The only requirement is that you want to share your process, learn from others, share your ideas, and/or improve. Soooo, is this something official? What will I gain from participating? EGS bonuses? HAH! This is merely me gone rogue - and I may hang from my toes for it! No official bonuses here. However, I'd like to see a bit more focus on the process and techniques of building here, and I think ships is an interesting place to start. This is, however, quite likely to be replaced, superseded, or added to by something official at some point in the future. Who manages this and keeps the record? Manages? Keeps records? Bwahahaha - forget it! Just post your WIP's and comments. Don't overthink it! ________________________________________________________________________ Kick off! Oooohkay, here we go: I have been working on a 4th rate, circa 50 guns on two decks. I present to you: The HMS Endeavour. Started here: Went here: And have ended here: She is supposed to be the first in a series of 4th rates designed for colonial waters. A 4th rate is a small ship of the line between 46 and 60 guns, just above frigate size. This one is (IC) specifically designed to serve as flagship for colonial squadrons, sailing in consort with frigates and sloops. Looking forward to hearing your comments! And to see your WIP's!
  13. I had not built something mine since a long time and I started again with hard things. These are tatra axles with ackerman steering and perfect geometry, I achieved this because the two drive axles do not match the steering parts but the price I have to pay is unestable wheels and having to put the transmission up. I always had used only one drive axle but these wheels allow me more distance between them so I am trying. The red gears are for the transmission, it has rubber suspensions but it is only a tatra WIP so everything can change and I already have seen things to improve. The rear axles are very easy to do so I let them for the end. My others Tatras was smallers but the steering system was similar so being bigger this one I think it will work too or not here it is the fun .
  14. Here it is finally... Dimensions: 65 x 137 x 46 studs 52 x 110 x 37 cm 20.5 x 43.2 x 14.6 inches Pieces: 11103 Weight: 7.75 kg (273.5 oz) Vigilance - Venator-class Star Destroyer by Martin Latta, on Flickr Vigilance - Venator-class Star Destroyer by Martin Latta, on Flickr Vigilance - Venator-class Star Destroyer by Martin Latta, on Flickr Vigilance - Venator-class Star Destroyer by Martin Latta, on Flickr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Original post: Hello, I'd like to present here my current project - Venator in UCS scale. I set few requirements: - as faithful to the original model as possible - completely SNOT/studless - interior (all 4 hangars) - use only active and relatively accessible Lego parts - easy to transport in separated modules - the same size like my previous Venator
  15. Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): https://www.dupuis.com/seriebd/zombillenium/3204 Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...
  16. Hello, I have almost finished recreation of this set and I have some photos in the process of creating, so this is a small WIP
  17. Hey guys, I'm starting a smaller project here with the aim of maximum playability. Currently I'm waiting for a huge Pick-A-Brick order to arrive for my New Flyer XD60 project, so I've decided to do a small project in the meantime, especially since I haven't published anything since January. This will be a small and simple ripsaw model equipped with a two-missile turret, using new missile elements from the Robot Inventor set. The model will probably be modular, with the body and chassis largely built modularly and connected together when finished. Currently I have the turret and some of the body built. The turret can also raise and lower, but unfortunately cannot rotate as the BuWizz unit only has 4 ports (and two will be taken by the drive motors). As for the drive motors, I plan to use 4 L motors with one connected to each sprocket, although I might also go with one RC motor per track. Overall, I see this model as an upgrade from my Lime Tracker of 2017, as this one will be driven by the more powerful L motor and feature BuWizz. I think this will be a fun little MOC to drive around. It's nice to build something else after months of work on a single project, and it'll be a great way to pass the time as I wait for parts to arrive for that project. Photos:
  18. Hi there everybody, since some of you asked for more WIP topics in the "Decreasing number of MOCs" topic, I thought I would take you along with my latest project, hopefully from start to finish. I wanted to build a drift car, and what other car ycould that be than the Nissan Silvia? deciding between S13, S14 and S15 was pretty easy, since pop up headlights are awesome. So I went for the most suitable model, the 180SX Type X. A quick search on google brought up this Blueprint. Not perfect, but good enough. Since this is a car with the classic FR layout I took the 6-speed manual transmission from my Nissan R32 GTR MOC and removed the AWD. I'ts running very smooth. After the pop-up headlights were completed I started modelling the front bumper. This bumper is really difficult, all the proportions are hard to recreate from bricks. I tried it like this, and while it is pretty accurate these stacked plates dont look very nice. Often it is better to choose the less accurate but better looking solution, so that's what I'll try next. I would love if someone could suggest a solution for the front lip that wraps all around the bottom of the bumper. It is 1.7 studs high and the angle does not want to match any solution I come up with. I know this does not look like much, but thats what happens when you look at the early stages of a MOC. I hope you enjoyed this, I'll try to keep you updated on my progress. Gray Gear
  19. This ship was designed to replace my original micro scale ocean liner from 2011. It's not intended to represent any real liner per say, though I was inspired a tiny bit by the Queen Mary (located out in Long Beach, CA) and a lot inspired by the Olympic / Titanic / Britannic sister-ships that were sadly scrapped / sunk by iceberg / mined in WW1. Here we see the RMS Allemann at sail at night in the mid-Atlantic sometime in the late 1920's. (this LDD picture was edited to give it a night-time feel. If only the portholes glowed!) The font of the ship (also called the "bow".) features three printed 1 x 6 tiles should spell out the name ALLEMANN on the left and right sides, and along with the stern. The light gray "hatches" at the fore and aft sections of the ship are for loading cargo into the various holds. Statistics: Ship Name: RMS Allemann Ship Type: "Gigantic" Class passenger Liner Owner: Red Star Line Ship Built: 1919 – 1921 Capacity: 400 Crew, 270 First class, 630 Second class, 1,000 Third class Lifeboats: 20 regular boats / 4 collapsible boats with 80 people per boat each (1,920 people total capacity) Builder: Strong & Steele Shipbuilders of London Propulsion: 24 Boilers, 2 turbines, 4 steel propellers Top Speed: 30 Knots Fuel: Diesel (originally Oil) The rear of the ship. (also called the "stern".) The raised portion of the deck is for the docking bridge when the ship is backing into port. The ship features a modular approach to it's construction, allowing for separation of bow and stern for storage ease... and in case I want to build a wrecked version in the future, I just disconnect the four Technic pins to remove the desired section from the rest of the vessel. Also, I thought about Gateway LUG holiday displays, which usually include light-up models in some form, usually modular buildings. These potential lights are now addable via the open bottom of the ship for a neat effect through the portholes. The pennant flag of the Red Star Line as originally used on the RMS Allemann. The RMS Allemann was first proposed in 1914, but World War One prevented it's construction by Strong & Steele Shipbuilders to start until 1919. The ship was modified from it's original proposed engine design to burn oil, and was completed in February 1921. The ship could hold 1,900 people total, with 400 being Crew, with 270 being First class, 630 in Second class, and 1,000 being the steerage, or Third class. The ship sailed it's maiden voyage in July 1921 from Southampton to New York City. The ship was English-owned, and as such, was immune to the new American anti-alcohol laws of Prohibition. The ship took off-peak season sailings (informally known as Liquor Cruises) around the Atlantic, returning to the American port of origin within a couple days. The ship managed to hold a steady service record, and remained relatively full-up until the Great Depression really took hold in 1931. The ship's owners, the Red Star Line, managed to stay financially afloat long enough to get the ship through the worst of the Depression, until the ship was requested by the English Navy as a troop ship in late 1939 for use in World War Two. The Allemann's fancy woodwork was put in storage and the ship was turned into a troop ship relatively quickly. The ship was strafed several times by enemy aircraft during the war, and narrowly missed being torpedoed in 1943, but it survived the war not too much worse for wear. When it was handed back over to Red Star Line, it was given a complete overhaul mechanically and electrically. The whole ship was rewired, and the oil burning engines converted to diesel. The Acadia's woodwork was painstakingly restored to it's original grandeur, and she was ready for for sailing by 1948, almost a year after being handed back to it's original owners. In the early '50's the ship began sailing luxury cruises to the Mediterranean from England and the United States, in addition to it's usual scheduled Atlantic crossings, and had it's third class re-designated as Tourist class. This was because the decline of the Atlantic immigrant traffic pattern was nearly complete. The ship began showing it's age by the late 1960's, when it's original glass dome began to leak badly. A handful of cracks in the reinforced glass caused the ship to be dry-docked, but before it could be fixed the huge dome collapsed in on itself, causing the grand staircase to be heavily damaged. Luckily, the accident happened in the middle of the night, and no one was on board at the time to get hurt by all that broken glass. The ships' dome was replaced, but only because the ship's owners knew of the ship's heritage and couldn't bear to see the old girl scrapped. (Not to mention it would have cost more to scrap the ship than fix the dome) By 1975, she was last four-stack ship in existence, and the owners were planning the grand lady's 55th Birthday for the next year. The Allemann celebrated July 1st, 1976 as her fifty-fifth birthday, and as part of the celebrations she was given to a preservation group dedicated to keeping the ship sailing as an "ambassador of history", as a peek into the way things were and how the men and women visiting and working on the Allemann went about their lives through each period of this ships stoic history. Many former passengers and crew detailed their experiences on the ship in writing or on film for the beginning of what later became known as The Allemann Living History Museum. Today, the ship features a feature-length film that chronicles the story of the ship and it's many passengers and crew through out the ships commercial and wartime lives. The film is shown in the Second Class movie theater, built into the ship in 1947 after World War Two, flowing seamlessly into the 1920's flavor of the ship. The ship still sails, making stops in New York and London (substituted for Southampton) at least twice a year. NOTES: The bow is either a bit too long or the stern too short, but I can't seem to fix that correctly to be "in scale". In fact, it's pretty much assured there is NO scale used with this ship, as I just built what looked good to me. The model will have to be bought sometime in Autumn of this year, as even though it has most of the parts from the 2011 ship inside it, (these have been removed the from the parts list to save money) it still will cost almost (US) $200 to purchase the remaining needed parts to have it done by the Christmas-time show later this year. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions, or complaints on this ship?
  20. Below we see a French sailing ship called "Bluejay Way", which operates out of the Caribbean hunting for pirates on the authority of French King Louis the ??th. (Captain Du Pont has been out of touch with France for so long, he's forgotten which numbered king blessed the voyage and which one sits on the throne currently.) Who knows, and who cares: there are pirates to hunt! Viva La France! Ok, so I took set 4184 (The Black Pearl) and gave it sails inspired by set 31109 (Creator Pirate Ship) I then wanted to give it a more bluecoat flair, but the 2015 torsos and flag are VERY expensive and to hard to find in quantity, so the Bluecoats became French, and the torsos... well, I'm not revealing that bit yet! The ship has been stretched out to have another row of cannons, (bringing the total up to 8) and raising the captain's cabin up a couple bricks. The rear of the ship, up near the lanterns should feature the name "Bluejay Way" in printed 1 x 1 tiles. Also missing are the two 1 x 2 rounded edge plates for the moving rudder, and the 13 golden window pane parts. The access to the cannons' area consists of the removable deck below the smaller boat. Also of note, the last mast can be taken out to get to the captain's cabin below. Led by the brilliant Captain Gerald Du Pont, the men of the Bluejay Way are out to hunt down pirates and bring them to justice. Side note: Captain Du Pont lost his right leg to the green-coated Captain of the English pirate ship "The Yago", whom Gerald especially wants hunted down and captured by any means necessary! Here is all the stuff together.... well, almost all of it. See, I thought about adding the Creator set 31120 (Medieval Castle) and turning it into a Caribbean fortress with the "Tower' B Model turned into a lighthouse, while the "Market" C model will just be recreated in LDD as just the wall... no buildings other that that, as I think it will be cheaper than buying another copy of the $100 (US) set. Just to prove how dedicated I am to getting the Bluejay Way pirate hunter built, here is a shot of the parts collected thus far. Oh, and if you figured out Bluejay Way is a reference to the Beatles song of the same name, (in name only) you get a cookie! Comments, questions, suggestions, and comments always welcome!
  21. So I have (slowly) begun working on a castle, the Castle of Syndrifel. I started on the great hall and kitchen, because let's be honest, even minifigures get hungry. After building the great hall, I began to realize just how big this thing will be. I'm planning on building it in modular secutions due to the real estate it will take up. Do the colors look ok? Too much dark grey? Etc. The first two photos are the great hall and kitchen, sans furniture for the most part. A minifigure is there for scale. The white arch there is also just a place holder, as are the transparent bricks behind the royal table. Some furniture I've been working on. The far left might be counters, but I'm really not fans. The middle tan and black will probably be shelves and tables in the kitchen. Far right are 99% sure to be benches. Should I start building from the ground up? Right now I have ane idea of the walls. Ignore the white bricks, they're place holders, as are the full on dark gray. I'm thinking 12x12 for the towers, aside from the main gaates which might be 12x14 or something to give a bit more room. The center 4x4 will be filled in as well. I have six of those built, which are the amount of towers I plan on building.
  22. Hi all, I just stated a new project, and I decided to create a WIP topic for it so I can show my building process on it. It is for now a side project, I started it early since I got stuck a bit on my main project (which can be found here for those interested), so progress probably won't be quick at first. So about the car. It is going to be a 1:10 scale racecar. I'm not aiming for a certain car, I want to design my own. This gives me a lot of freedom in functions and features I want to add. I looked at the Greek mythology to find a name, and settled on Orion. I am going for a different design style than my previous builds. In those builds I used a lot of panels and liftarms to close as many gaps as possible, for this one I want to go for a more 'technic' look. I also have a list of functions/ features I (might) want to add: Definitely want to add these: AWD (3 diffs) Sequential gearbox + engine (a simple 4 speed one to leave room for other functions) Spring-loaded scissor or butterfly doors Advanced suspension set-up & geometry Openable engine bay (probably with a lever in the car) DRS (or a similar system) Rigid monocoque And might add these: Modular bodywork Modular chassis Active aero (e.g. panels which move when steering) If you have other features you'd like me to (try to) add, please let me know. So far I have built the axles. The rear axle is pretty much done, the front axle needs a few refinements, but is mostly finished by now. Rear axle: Orion - Rear axle 1 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Functions/ features: Double wishbone Stiff, short travel pushrod suspension with a limiter Heave spring Anti-roll bar Differential Front axle: Orion - Front axle 1 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Functions/ features: Double wishbone Stiff suspension (springs are attached with levers) Heave spring Anti-roll bar Differential Positive caster angle Kingpin inclination Ackermann steering geometry At first I also added a negative camber angle, but it was a bit too exaggerated and lead to some problems, so I decided to not add it. This is it for now, hope you like it :D
  23. Hi everyone, this time I want to show you another work-in-progress MOC, but this one is more recent. The reason why I want to do this is quite obvious - LEGO releases their Lambo this year, and I am also aware of at least one Aventador MOC coming soon. We should have even more Lamborghinis, they are awesome and I can't wait to see these models. My version is a dark blue + white model in 1:8 scale with some basic functions: Steering with working steering wheel. Openable scissors doors. 7+R gearbox. Remote control using a single Control+ hub: 2 coupled XL motors for drive; L motor for steering; L motor to change speeds. This time I decided to build everything independantly and simultaniously. It actually helped me to become much more productive. I'll start with the bodywork. It's not completed and is built around a very crude carcass. I'm trying to concentrate on the shape only. There will be enough space on the inside, I'm taking this into account while building. As you see, it's about 60% completed. Front section is not done yet, but the back looks almost completed and I really like how it turned out. Reminds me a "snowboard glasses" a little (don't know how to call them but I'm sure you get what I mean): Of course, these gaps will have black background in the future and I will add some filler to them as well. Rear wing also looks completed, it might be my favorite part of the build, here you can see it from another side: Now I want to show a door closely. I tried to replicate scissors mechanism as closely as I could. First version used shock absorber and was way too big. The proble is that it has to be very close to the front wheel, it's pretty hard to do. Second version required 3 small rubber bands to hold door's weight. On the following photos you will see a third version. This is how it looks being closed: This is the first step of opening when you open it just like a regular car's door: And this is how it looks when you open it in a different plane. It holds itself locked with two rubber bands that you can see at the bottom: Here's a shot from the front with both doors opened. You can see that the door on the right has "old" design, I improved on it already: Next two pictures are showing caliper on the front wheel. I wanted it to be angled just like on the real car so I had to be creative: Yes, this is a sausage piece. Calipers on the rear will also be angled, but with more conventional build. I don't have it right now so the picture will be in one of the following updates. Now car's internals. Here you can see a gearbox and rear wheels. 3 motors are clearly visible. 4th motor will be in front of the hub. The idea is that L motor will change speeds by rotating by 180 degrees, this can be done programmatically rather then mechanically. But it doesn't mean that the build is simple, because it's not. I used only one of those new orange "wave selector" gears, everything else is basically a huge improvement over the gearbox from my LaFerrari MOC, but it's 1.5 times bigger because of that "reverse" speed I added. It's actually pretty fun that I managed to use a 40 tooth gear in this model. I guess I could use 36 + 2x28, but I don't have 28 tooth gears yet: Here's a view of the bottom. A huge con of the model can be seen here - it has no central diff, but still I expect all 4 wheels to be driven. On the other hand, I left a lot of holes so I can see gears turning: This construction is not rigid enough in several points, I think I will have to completely rebuild it and ensure that it is strong enough. It's already pretty smooth and if motors won't be able to handle the weight then I can play with the gear ratios from motors - there are dedicated places in the gearbox for this exact purpose. I hope that it will become a good model and you'll like it. Thank you!
  24. Hello everyone! Today I'd like to show you the model that I've been working on for more than two years, it's my first MOC in this scale that is actually close to being finished. It was rebuild from scratch dozen times and still requires bodywork. The MOC is LaFerrari in 1:8 scale: Origially I had a lot of ideas and great ambitions, but over time I realized that I just don't have enough skill to make everything I wanted. So current version has following features: independent suspension; 2 L motors for driving; Servo motor for steering; working steering wheel; 8 speed sequential gearbox driven by M motor; spacious interior with low seats positioning; powering with standard LEGO PF. Proportions: width - 29 studs; height - 15-16 studs; length - about 70 studs, don't know yet. Originally I wanted to use bigger wheels but then I stopped on 68.8. The thing is that front section of the car are too low so there won't be any place for arches with bigger wheels. Battery box is located in front of the car because everything behind seats is one huge gearbox. It just lays on its own weight and will be covered on the top with something black. This way you won't see most of gray and light gray parts through the bonnet. Distance between seats is only 3 studs and every seat is 7 studs wide. There's no free space between them - only a few hidden cables there. This is how it looks without seats: Top and bottom views: The whole core of the car is basically done. It's pretty sturdy and doesn't bend when you hold it. In current state it has about 1600 pieces. The most challenging part of the build at this point is a gearbox. It had to be very compact because car is so low. In this LDD file you can investigate all gears: https://bricksafe.com/files/ibessonov/wip-moc-laferrari-technic-2018---1/8 speed gearbox.lxf Here are some renders of gearbox without stepper. Green axles are input from motors. There are 3 clutches here and they give 8 unique combinations of their engagement. L motors are slowed down significantly. This is because they are not powerful enough to make this car fast. Here's a stepper mechanism that I used to move all 3 clutches: Green things should be connected with white rubber bands, they hold axles in fixed 90-degrees positions. There's a strong resemblance with 42056 Porshe's gearbox here, I know it. That model helped a lot with the inspiration. My plan is to finish bodywork but it's the hardest thing for me. This is the exact reason why I'm creating this topic - to get help/critique while I'm finishing the model. LaFerrari has quite complex shape and I should have chosen something more simple for my first MOC. But I already spent way too much time so I have to finally finish it. Leave your thoughts here, I'm very curious of what you might say. Thank you!
  25. Introduction : Sigrid's journal "We were called to a meeting with the other village leaders yesterday. Jarl Elisif wanted us all to know about the victory at the Enchanted Forest. Of course, the word had already spread, and everyone was already talking about how Jarl Thimolir's bear cavalry saved the day. After months of tensions, even the most ardent sceptics now seem to veer to the side of the Queen. And that's great news. Instead of worrying about a possible war, we can now hope for peace. Instead of focusing on arming and training our people, I can now step back and also plan for the long term. It's time to rebuild Horgaard." In order to assist my sigfig's efforts to rebuild her village, I'm going to build a mead hall. And given that this is the first time I'll build such a MOC, I expect a lot of thinking, a lot of trial and error, and a lot of time. During the months by the housewarming hallwarming party, here is the thread where I'll track the progress of the construction and all the thinking behind. History Chapter 1. What could it look like? Chapter 2. Of roofs and doors Chapter 3. Woodworking Chapter 4. Construction delays Current state