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Found 196 results

  1. Ever since set 42039 hit the shelves, I feel attracted to building Le Mans prototype cars, due to their characteristic shape and almost futuristic looks. So I think you can imagine the delight I felt when during my random stroll on the interwebs a few months back, I stumbled upon the following concept car. Back then, I tried building a Lego version of it and got quite far. But due to lack of pieces I had to abandon early. I have since bricklinked a thing or two and want to redo the model from scratch. I think the actual car doesn't even exist in reality yet, and I think this is actually a rendered image. If I remember correctly, it is a concept that they want to try to build in reality in 2020. Personally I think it's the least car-like looking car there is (if you only count serious car models). If you forget the wheels and decals, it could be modern architecture as well. What's also cool is how the black wheel arches are actually almost shaped like Technic panels. I will be using the wheels of 8070, 42039 et al. These are slightly less than 9 studs in diameter, which justifies the following side view: The planned functions are: front steering rear drive, driving a fake engine suspension doors (powered by the damped springs also used in 8448) There's little space, so I don't count on having a gearbox. With a bit of luck, I can find room for a 2-speed, which at least gives the idea of a gearbox. But it probably won't be a proper "supercar" in the Lego sense of the word. We'll see, and I might need some help from you guys with this later on. OK, let's start. All I have so far is the two suspension modules. Here's the front suspension: First thing you might notice is, I'm using the long wishbone arms. Personally this is what makes the suspension much more interesting to myself, because it's more challenging to make it work and looks much more like F1-type suspension. Also you see I'm using only 1 small spring per wheel. The suspension travel is very little (about 1 stud) so I hope having 1 spring per axle is enough. It'll have to be though, because the mechanism isn't very strong, so a stronger spring will result in parts coming loose. The black axle on the left is the steering input, to that's where the rest of the car will come. Thanks to the pins with pin hole, the 5x7 frame is pretty rigidly attached to the whole thing. The chassis will be connected to that 5x7 frame. The rear suspension is unsteered, and therefore less spectacular. But it holds the differential: Those two modules is where I am right now. I do want to have said beforehand that I'm really not good at recreating existing car bodies, so it will be difficult and I will take some slack here and there. But how fortunate is it, that Lego has the perfect color for this car. Older Technic fans know these panels from the great Offroader 8466 and its smaller brother 8465. I'm actually not even a fan of the old panels, but this car is really the perfect opportunity to put them to use (and indeed, I bricklinked some, so I have a nice collection of them). Unfortunately though, these four pairs of panels are the only pieces in this color (except a very rare ribbed hose I don't have). So the body will necessarily be a bit crude. A body with modern pieces would probably be better, but I want to see how far I can come using these good old panels. When we get there, your feedback will be very welcome. The gaps will be filled up with black, I think. But a word of warning: I will probably add some details in a second color, simply because I find black a bit boring to work with. OK, that's it for the opening post. I hope you don't mind all the rambling I do between the pics. Next up will be a basic chassis connecting the two modules together at the right distance.
  2. Greetings, shipwrights. Whether a novice, an apprentice, a master, or a veteran shipwright, following the process of others, sharing your own, and giving and receiving feedback can help everyone improve. What's the point? This is just a place for all of us liberally to post WIP's for feedbacks, tips, suggestions, and questions, without otherwise littering the BoBS forum with WIP's. You can post just one step in the process, or several over a period. It's all up to you. So I am working on a vessel/ship - what do I do? Post one or more pictures, questions, ship-plans, descriptions, etc. here, and hopefully someone will step in with some wonderful advice. At least, I expect to do so. I know NOTHING about ships - can I comment, and how do I do? Everyone with something constructive to say can comment. No need to be a scholar in historic vessels, medieval carpentry or sail making. Sometimes it might just be aesthetics, a crazy idea, a suggestion for a technique, use of a specific brick, or whatever you can think of. Just keep it nice and constructive. In return, builders posting here will pwomise not to take offense! I'd suggest tagging the builder you are commenting on. But I am not an expert - the arrogant elite will laugh at my puny attempts at shipbuilding! First of all, the arrogant elite was not invited. In fact, they have been given specific instructions to go back to their fancy little elitist coffee houses to talk about how brilliant they are. Secondly, regarding puny attempts, take a look at my first attempt at a ship just two and a half years ago... Well, you really don't have to look. Move along... Nothing to see here... The rather obvious point being, we all start somewhere, and no matter where you start, or how steep your learning curve is. The only requirement is that you want to share your process, learn from others, share your ideas, and/or improve. Soooo, is this something official? What will I gain from participating? EGS bonuses? HAH! This is merely me gone rogue - and I may hang from my toes for it! No official bonuses here. However, I'd like to see a bit more focus on the process and techniques of building here, and I think ships is an interesting place to start. This is, however, quite likely to be replaced, superseded, or added to by something official at some point in the future. Who manages this and keeps the record? Manages? Keeps records? Bwahahaha - forget it! Just post your WIP's and comments. Don't overthink it! ________________________________________________________________________ Kick off! Oooohkay, here we go: I have been working on a 4th rate, circa 50 guns on two decks. I present to you: The HMS Endeavour. Started here: Went here: And have ended here: She is supposed to be the first in a series of 4th rates designed for colonial waters. A 4th rate is a small ship of the line between 46 and 60 guns, just above frigate size. This one is (IC) specifically designed to serve as flagship for colonial squadrons, sailing in consort with frigates and sloops. Looking forward to hearing your comments! And to see your WIP's!
  3. It's about a time, since I've been ended my dark ages and now it looks like my way will be rather smaller attempts and "projects", then bigger and more sophisticated ones. My older builds had their own topics here and here, but I don't think that all of my next builds will be suitable for separate topics, so I decided to make this one, where I have intention to add all of my publishable builds. And for the beginning, here is my wip small manual buggy. Buggies are favourite Technic builds, there are many of them in all sizes, shapes and qualities. This one is intended to be small and simple, all manualy working. Now it has front and rear suspesion, openable cabin, steering and rear wheels conected to fake engine. I'd like to improve rear axle suspension, add HOG and steering wheel and some details here and there. And finaly adjust color scheme, although I'm not very disturbed with this clor vomit in this type of vehicle.
  4. Hermanos de Sangre WIP thread

    So I am new so if this is the wrong place can a admin move it ... Thank you. I figured i would post a wip thread for my first MOC ship ... I built and tore apart quite a bit trying to get to where i am at this point. I don't really have a plan im going off of but more a general goal ... Im by no means a historian on ships but i know the general shape im looking for. There are very few ships that have rams so i wanted one on mine The helm is working via technic parts ... Wish i took pictures of that. But you crank the wheel and the rudder moves via chains. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/37371315634_6178c0ea7e_z.jpg This took a bit of work but it was something i loved on my 90s era lego ships. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/38080451021_b8c227fbfd_z.jpg The capitans quarters is quite large for such a small ship but I wanted something a pirate could live in ... All the movies show a large state room lol. The ship does have a hold that can be accessed through the gun deck ... Which will be open in the center. I intend to use a combination of built small guns on top of the ship and the standard lego cannons on the gun deck. Im still waiting on four more cannons (the dark pearl shooting) as the rest of my cannons are the old grey imperial non shooting. I loved a depiction i saw with a spiral staircase to access the bridge? So I borrowed a method i had seen before as I don't think the potter stairs look navel enough. The helm I intend to redo ... As i started the design not realizing the space and the whole build has revolved around the working helm I made it more structural because early in the process it was just sitting up top with nothing but a hull. Im redoing the tops of the gun deck so i can incorporate a gang way and forecastle deck (although only large enough for the mortars) speaking of im not sure I will be keeping them fully mobile as they are now ... May opt for a stationary setup that appears to be mobile. Your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
  5. Hey everyone, This MOC is being built for 2 reasons: 1, to celebrate 3 milestones- Canada's 150th anniversary, Technic's 40th anniversary, and me hitting 1000 subscribers on Youtube. In fact, a comment suggested I do this. The second reason is to cure the errors that my 2 previous crawlers had: -weak axles (very weak in fact) -low climbing power -messy building -inefficient steering (used an M motor) -no additional RC functions So here's where I'm at right now: Above is the motor housing. I'm going with 2 L motors for the drive because they have good speed at a sufficient torque. That is the gear housing. Frames are abundant. Now the whole front axle. You can see that it is compact and yet very, very durable. The rear axle. And the two together. This crawler is being built for max performance but awesome looks. So I want to (but may not) do a Tacoma body: Update tomorrow, thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  6. [WIP] UCS Jabba's Sail Barge

    Work In Progress Ever since I bought the Sail Barge (75020) in 2013, I fell in love with the ship. It quickly became my favorite set. Sadly, recently, I've been taking apart most of my non-UCS sets to make room for the bigger models and to have more pieces to MOC with. I had refrained from wrecking the Barge and the MTT from 2007 because they were my two favorite sets. Eventually, when I got into making car MOCs (Chevrolet Bel Air and Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II), I took both sets apart to make a brown Plymouth Special Deluxe but, after seeing I didn't have enough brown bricks to go through with the project, all the pieces just laid there. Now, while waiting for the UCS Millenium Falcon to come back in stock, I've been having the minifigure-scale fever. I've built a couple of rebel ships (X-Wing (MOD), Y-Wing (WIP), A-Wing (Bought the latest one)) and now, after seeing all he brown pieces I had in stock and all the cool minifigures I wanted to use for some iconic scene, I've tackled Jabba's Sail Barge - The Khetanna. Here it is with my Desert Skiff and the brand new parts that have just arrived: There's a full interior for the barge. Kitchen, droid torture room, "lobby", driver's cabin and, of course, the party room at the back. I'll post pics of the interior as well as more of the outside once I make some progress with the new parts.
  7. [MOC][WIP] Post Office

    Hi, Long time reader, first time (proper) poster. I'm working on adding a post office into my modular street (I loath to call it a town, as it's not even close to some that I've seen on here!). I was originally building it up in LDD, but have since redesigned it using stud.io. It's a WIP at the minute, but I'm looking for a bit of feedback, as this is my first proper MOC. I'm planning on using 7731 in the driveway, and 60100 for the helipad that will be on the roof. Any constructive feedback would be great. Link to Flickr album, as it won't let me upload images > 20kb!
  8. Do you remember my Reform Metrac H7X ? Reform also produces the Muli: As the project of my Citröen DS doesn’t really progresses, I do this project in WIP, to compensate. ^^ The functions will be close to the Metrac ones: 4WD with a 4 cylinders fake engine Steering with 3 modes Front and rear PTOs And I add: A pneumatic pump to add pneumatic tools Central joint (it’s only the front axle on the Metrac) Openable cab with a lever and a pump actionning a pneumatic cylinder. The best function! But this MOC will not be manual, because there is not so much room in the chassis. (I think it’s possible, but the playability will be extremely bad) So it will be remote controlled, using the BuWizz. So: Driving by 1 XL by axle Steering: 1 servo by axle. To have the 3 steering modes: a M motors controls a PFs switch -> it changes the sens of rotation of the rear servo, or it stops it. The pneumatic pump is powered by a M motor That was the start: And now I’m here: On these two pictures, you can see the rear PTO. On this side, the pneumatic pump: And here is the mecanism which allows the possibility to get 3 steering modes: The chassis is very, very compact. I think you can put an elephant on it, it will not move at all. For the tools, I think I’ll make a pneumatic arm (The pneumatic cylinders of the Mercedes truck would be very helpful, but I don’t have this set) And for the front I don’t know, so if you have ideas, tell me!
  9. There is already a beautiful saddletrac MOC which was built by @efferman but I wanted to build a saddletrac using only pieces from the 42054 set. Here are the function: -3 steering modes -2 PTOs (1 top, 1 back & front) -attachments, currently undecided Here's what I've got so far: I did the front first specifically so I could ration DBG pieces. If you have any attachment ideas or constructive criticism, please leave a comment. Thanks! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  10. I have been working on this since Rebels first came out, and I've seen a lot of really nice MOCs being built, mostly of the Phantom. But seeing so many talking about building a Ghost to match, I thought I'd show off what I have of mine so far. It is 134 studs long and 109 studs wide. The original intent was to have a full interior, I'm not 100% sure if that plan will make it through to the final design but we shall see. Currently the cockpit, main corridor, loading area, forward gun turret, Zeb&Ezra's room, Kanan's room and Sabine's room are fully fleshed out, I will probably do Hera's room since it was finally shown in season 2. I may upload those pictures in the future. But here is what I have for the exterior so far. I put in the official LEGO Ghost set for scale. Thoughts and opinions are welcome. I look forward to one day hopefully showing off the actualised model.
  11. Hello! I’m not particularly proud of this Technic horror I’ve created, but I’d like to share it with you rather than keep it to myself, possibly forever. Shortly after I learned about (and supported) SBrick and MiniZip in KickStarter, I started dreaming of building powerful, compact MOCs using a new combo: PP3 NiMh battery + MiniZip + SBrick + 5292 RC Buggy Motor. This is my first attempt at it, now that Android SBrick app (1.3+) is finally usable Functions Drive: 2x 5292 RC Buggy Motor, each connected to a separate SBrick, each powered by a separate PP3 NiMh 250 mAh battery using MiniZip. Steering: PF Servo. Front suspension: independent, soft, long travel, with “fake” positive caster Rear suspension: solid axle, dragged (didn’t figure out how to do four-link) 4x Lego LED Still haven’t applied myself to learning proper bodywork, so designing my own was out of the question. I went for an easy, fairly plain one. No openable doors, bonnet or anything. I worked with these two photos and scaled for 62.4mm tires. Full size (> 1024px): 1, 2. Photos were made really quick, during a baby siesta (indoor) and in short incursions (outdoors) no more than 20 meters from home. For now, I can only dream of having more time and freedom for this :D v0.99 without stickers: v1.0 with stickers based on video: Old school navigator refused to deal with GPS and computers, wanted just a compass (70001pb02) and a map with an X that marks the spot. Smart dude, run off with the loot. Very short of creativity and sleep, the only alternative I could think of to get rid of the demonic Monster logo and brand was a rather lame one: Music Energy. Example diff: I asked friends to vote in G+ and 3 out of 4 prefer Music, but the one who prefers Monster is my the only one into LEGO. I’m divided, will probably print them and try them on, but still not sure which ones to use for filming. I started with 1 battery, 1 SBrick, 2 motors. It seemed to run well. Adding an extra battery and Sbrick seems to make it run even stronger / faster, although SBrick developer Zsolt Majoros said it shouldn’t matter. The real reason I added the extra SBrick is that “2 ports 1 function” only works in Android app when those 2 ports are on separate SBricks. You may ask why use PP3 batteries instead of the acclaimed LiPo batteries… mainly because they are expensive, and a bit of a lottery with their thermal protection. MiniZip + PP3 NiMh 250 mAh wasn’t a whole lot cheaper, but the combo is certainly more compact, half the weight and doesn’t have any thermal protection. SBricks can draw as much current as the motors want, with just a small risk of overheating and possibly catching on fire… ah well, what could possibly go wrong? I haven’t actually managed to make the batteries warm up, they get warmer when charging. One likely reason for not achieving hotness is short life, according to this battery life calculator, they’d last 3.5 minutes at 3 A, 10 minutes at 1 A, 20 minutes at 500 mA. Can someone make a better-informed / estimation of a more realistic battery life? But there are more and worse problems, for which I sure can do with your advice! Caster angle is fake, isn’t? I mean, I just shifted the upper A arms a half stud backwards, but both A arms still move vertically. I think this is why big bumps will throw the truck’s front up rather than only the front wheel/s going up. When hitting a big bump with a front wheel, the wheel will thrust up and with it the whole car will roll to the opposite side. This results in a raised rear wheel taking all torque to just spin in the air, so the car stops until the raised wheel hits the ground again. Shifting the upper A arms a half stud backwards messed with the steering geometry, so now there’s a not-so-slight bump steering. I think this, combined with the twisting effect on the solid axle, is what’s causing the truck to steer to the left when accelerating. Too bad. Motors are hard coupled on their fast output and then geared down 20:12 twice, not including the 20-tooth to differential connection. Maybe I could / should gear down 20:12 only once, haven’t had a chance to try yet. I suppose integrating the motors in the rear axle and connecting wheels directly to them would help with the last couple of problems, but couldn’t figure out how to fit that in this body just yet. I’m also concerned that if one battery drains faster, the motor (no longer) powered by it will get damaged. With each rear wheel directly on one motor, that would result in the truck going in circles, but motors wouldn’t get damaged. How bad is this? Steering with SBrick (v1.3) as a significant latency, in the time it takes from the moment I slide my finger to a side (much or little) to the moment when the PF Servo starts moving, the truck is already going the wrong way. It’s really hard to drive straight. rm8, what’s your experience regarding this latency with your Double Trouble? If anyone has not seen rm8’s Double Trouble, I’ll put it as “my dream, properly done” Thank you for reading. If you were looking for a video... EDIT(25.05.2015): slightly better pics. EDIT(26.09.2015): I’m now a little more proud of my creation, at least the suspension seems right to me: it’s long travel and soft enough to reacts promptly to bumps, but the car doesn’t sink too much on it. I dare say it works better than most others, probably because it’s much harder to this the a bigger scale most others have been working with. The car is still not really fast, so I didn’t bother measuring its speed. I did try putting less reduction in the drivetrain, but that only resulted in lower speed due to lower torque, so I reverted back to my original setup. It’s still fast enough to be impossible to drive well, specially with the terrible latency in the SBrick. Latency is not a problem with the port tester, so it doesn’t look like a hardware limitation. Anyway, it’s fast enough to be fun. Thanks to Sir Wolf’s help and support, we finally have a somewhat decent video. Enjoy! :) And we learned many things the hard way: by failing. Fake caster angle is not good, you need real caster for off-road racing. I took the idea from someone’s supercar project here (sorry, couldn’t find it again) to displace the upper suspension arm by ½ stud backwards from the lower arm (see belly shot above). That gives you quite a bit of caster angle on the wheel (or snowmobile skies) but it does not help reacting promptly to the most serious bumps. It also screws the geometry in that the gear rack should ideally be ¼ stud backwards, but it’s either 0, ½ or 1. This results in notorious bump steering: front wheels are toes out when suspension is fully extended, and toes in when fully compressed. When this adds to the torsion exerted by the powerful motors on the live axle (see in the video how left front wheel jumps up when car starts). All in all: bad Idea. Portal hubs from 8070 are not good for off-road racing, I should have used the ones from the snowmobile 42021 (2015). They are also too expensive to go on dirt with them, so I didn’t. Differential slows down or even stops the car when one rear wheel take off. I knew this was a problem with crawlers, but never imagined how bad it’d be on a trophy truck. Damn it, I’ll never do this again. Just use one motor per wheel, and accept that if one motor runs out of battery or losses signal, you might take a sharp turn or find yourself driving in circles for a little, depending how the front wheels cope with the imbalance. MiniZip are great to get “buggy-motor-grade” power in a smaller size than LiPo batteries. PPA 9V batteries can fit a width of 3 studs, so a 5x11 panel makes for a perfect home. However, MiniZip’s lack of power switch in makes it a complete hassle to replace batteries. Should keep them very easily accessible.
  12. General MOC-Discussion Ahoy! Ever felt like there's not enough general talk going on here about what matters most in these waters - MOCs? Ever got frustrated over a certain issue with a WIP that you could need help with? Ever thought about posting a WIP but didn't think it would deserve its own thread? Ever wanted to announce a huge, mind boggling, or simply your next project and ask your fellow EB members what they think about that idea? Or have you ever just felt the urge to tease everyone with a blurred picture of your creation or some facts about it before releasing it for good? Well, hesitate no further, this is the place for you! Use this thread as a vessel for all the otherwise unmentioned MOC related talk, use it to discuss sail sizes and capstan designs, ask for ideas, help others with their MOC issues and tease your fellow mateys... with pics of your creations, of course
  13. (MOC) Constitution Bar WIP

    Here's a modular that is currently a work in progress. Still a lot of work to do on floor 2 and 3 but just looking for any finishing touches people could recommend for the bar portion. I do plan on swapping out my breakaway wall to be dark tan so it won't feel so industrial. Thanks in advance! 20170727_003951 by David Kerkes, on Flickr 20170801_004905 by David Kerkes, on Flickr 20170730_001243 by David Kerkes, on Flickr 20170801_004022 by David Kerkes, on Flickr 20170801_004944 by David Kerkes, on Flickr
  14. @Jim's stellar review of the 42056 gave me this idea. The chassis itself is mostly done, but I wanted to create this topic to get some tips because I am no supercar expert. Here is the chassis: It has independent suspension, RWD, 4speed gearbox, and 3 steering modes: front, 4 wheels, crab steering. Shifting is the interesting part: -if gear 1 or 2 is selected, 4 wheels steering is selected. -if gear 3 or 4 is selected, crab steering is selected. -if no gear is selected, front wheel steering is selected. This is (at least somewhat) realistic because: (From Jim's review) The gearbox: So that's what it is. I will post 1 more update before putting this to rest while I wait for parts to arrive. So leave a comment! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  15. Hi all, be kind, this is the first time I've actually started a topic here, and shared pics of my lego fumblings. I've been away from lego for 20 years, and then my GF bought me the lego millenium falcon for christmas, and it's totally rekindled my love (for Lego, not the GF, I loved her already...). Like many, I found the S-foils on the most recent T-70 X-wings rather underwhelming. The X-wings in the movie look so cool, aggressive, dynamic, and the new engine pods and the way the wings fold to become one single plane in cruise mode is very slick indeed. The Lego version is significantly less slick in this regard, and this bothered me. As is well documented, the wings don't even meet, let alone combine into one, the lower wing is studs down, which means the ugly plate underside is on show, and the dreaded blue rubber bands, both look out of place at the back of the engine pods, and pull the wings at an angle. I will say that I like the folding mechanism as a play function, and did not want to loose it. So first off, the closed position: When they're closed, there is no gap, no angle difference, and to all intents and purposes, it appears as though it's one single wing, just as it should. And now, open Again, no angle change due to rubber band tension. The bands are still being used, but I found a way to integrate them such that they pull the wings closed as they should, but not unevenly, and within the forward profile of the wings so that they're not obvious. In fact they now look like some kind of power cables on the engine undesides. Here's some close ups: I'll go into more detail on this tomorrow if anyone's interested, but essentially the now studs up lower wings have some 2x1 modified plates with pin loops with pins going into 1x1 technic bricks as the method of attaching them, with one of the pins sticking out for the bands to locate on. The bands then go around the back of another pin that replaced a cream coloured short pin on the body of the ship, then go up inside the upper wing engine where there's one of thes guys for them to hook on to: It has as much tension as the original system, but looks alot slicker, though i will admit it is a bit trickier to put together. the bands also seem to hold the lower wing onto the engine a bit too, which is nice. The rear landing gear is rubbish on the original, and i wanted something that would retract cleanly. The real ship has landing gear that emerges from the slopes between the curved engine and the wing. This seemed impossible to duplicate at this scale, and with the stuff for the new folding mechanism, so did landing gear on the engines too, so i mounted it to the body, at its widest part. It folds up and becomes part of the body curve at the back, which is nice. I apologise for the crappy lighting, again, I'll get better pics if there's interest. I may swap the grey part for black, but I don't have any at the moment. Elsewhere on the ship, I moved the cockpit back one stud, and started playing around reprofiling the nose a little. This is the next area for my attention and is a work in progress. Please feel free to comment, I'm open for any constructive criticism!
  16. Yes, I am late. But all the ideas for this project are made, I just have to combine them. I'm gonna leave you with a list of functions excluding the wacky one. I'll leave you guys to guess it, it's really obvious. -HoG Steering -Adjustable ground clearance (offroad/street mode) -v8 engine -wacky function Here are the pictures: Leave a comment! PS This isn't done yet.
  17. Modular Office Building WIP

    This is a custom office building I built last month. Its not quite finished but its getting close. Will post pics and a finishing video once it is complete inside and out.
  18. So I thought I might try something a bit different - rather than posting a finished MOC and receiving comments on the finished product, I thought I might try a WIP/build log and hopefully get some advice from you guys along the way. Also I thought some people may find a build log interesting? Anyway, I was supposed to whip up a quick build of my sig-fig, Colonel Dirk Allcock leaving Myzectlan. It was supposed to be a quick build for story advancement purposes. I had the idea of him speaking to the leader of the Myzec, High Priestess Zia in a sort of throne room. While looking for some inspiration on the internet, I found this image which almost perfectly depicts what I'd like to build: Problem is I'm not sure I can do it justice and need some help! And here is my starting point: The area is a 20x40 base. The green section at the end will have some background vegetation and I plan on taking the shot front on, no angle. And some progress: On reflection I am not sure about the dark tan additions to the flooring, I am however very happy with the SNOT splinter pattern. I am thinking that I will probably replace the dark tan with a mixture of dark green and olive green to match the columns. Thoughts? Circles are hard! Also the throne - I've experimented with various ways of trying to portray the circle part without any satisfying results, does anyone have any suggestions? The columns will likely extend the same height as the are now up with a flat roof on top in light bley with dark/olive green highlights and maybe some vegetation. The idea is the Myzec like their buildings to 'become one' with the life giving jungle. Any advice/comments/criticism most welcome! EDIT: LINKS TO UPDATES Update One
  19. Hello, me and Legomonorailfan are writing a story for classic space! It is still in the making. Narrator: In the near future, on national television. Politician: Hello, I would like to you about Earth, It is estimated our planet, will drastically change by the year 2100. The first and foremost problem is, overpopulation. It is estimated by the year 2100, the Earth will have 12 billion people, poverty levels would be higher then ever, and there will most likely be a food shortage among other things. My point is, we need to colonize new planets, to boldly go to where no man has gone before,The Legoland government has invested a estimated 6.5 billion dollars into their new exiting project called......"Legoland Space", it is estimated the project will be launched sometime in the 2070s. Narrator: Several hundred years later. The Earth-Zonia Confederation has been placed on the brink of war due to the recent alien invasion. For the men stationed at the base on a moon of Brickius, the threat seems light years away. It is...or so they thought. The blips appeared on long range scanners at 618.pm, Nobody had thought that this more then 30 year-old space station would be threatened. Even though it provides ammunition and other necessities to starships on patrol in the area, experts at Space Fleet Intelligence were betting that a alien fleet would be heading towards more strategic targets. They were wrong.Now, the sixty five-man staff of this space station must prepare to defend itself for the first time since the space pirate invasion. Hopefully, they'll survive. At Space Fleet Academy. Sparky: So you think we're going to get our wings? Bob: Of course! Who doesn't? Sparky: Well what if we get sent to Mega Blocks? Bob: Nah. No one gets sent there unless the base is understaffed or someone request to be assigned to the base. Sparky: Hey! Is that a Fulcan? Bob: Yea... Let's go say hi! Bob: Hey, how's it going? I'm Bob. Bob Starbricks. Grahack: Greetings. I'm Grahack. Bob: Last name? Grahack: You... wouldn't be able to pronounce it. Bob: Ah... Sparky: And I'm Sparky. Grahack: Pleasure. If you'll excuse me, I have to request for an assignment. Bob: Oh, where at? Grahack: SF Brickius base. Sparky: Mega Blocks?! Grahack: If I'm to assume your using the slang term applied to the base, you are correct. Bob: But why on earth would you want to request for an assignment there? Grahack: Well, I'm a science officer. Bob: Hmm. Figures. Well good luck! Grahack: Thank you. But as we say it on Fulcan, "build strong and blocky". Announcer: Will Bob Mursten and Brickton Sparks please go to the assignment station down the hall? Bob: That's us! Sparky: Hello. Captain: Yes you and Mursten, Are stationed on the moon orbiting Brickius. Bricksworth: Oh looks like "Starbricks" and "Sparky" are going to Megablocks!! (Everybody else laughs) Captain: Bricksworth Oswald Jr, your stationed at Beta-1 Bricksworth: Exquisite, here's a tip Captain: I don't take tips. Bricksworth: ....... Narrator: later, on the transport ship, Voyager-487 Sparky: Hey look bob, it's Zonia! Bob: Hey isn't that the Zonia starship the Spearhead? Sparky: Looks like they're going of course! Grahack: Odd. They're supposed to go home to Zonia. Perhaps they saw a UFO or a little green man? (laughter) Bob: Should we follow it? Sparky: Nah, we should just report it. Grahack: We are fairly close to radio range. Perhaps if we get a little closer we can transmit a message to them... Bob: But we are stretched for time as it is. Sparky: Right. Grahack: Hmm. Yes... But- Shuttle pilot: To late. Sorry men, she's much to far away. We'd never catch up to her in this shuttle. We'll just have to report it when we arrive at Brickius base. Narrator: Later, at Brickius. Bob: Look, there is the base! Sparky: We're Landing! Black: Ah, welcome! I'm commander Black. Grahack: -tron? (laughter) Black: no-no-no Just Black. And this is second in command, Lt. Roger. Grahack: Capt.... Roger: You better stop that wise guy. Narrator: Later...... Bob: Well...here we are. Sparky: Yep... Grahack: I must confess that I fail to see the reason for your anguish. Bob: That's because your a "science" officer. Grahack: Hmm...yes. But tell me, what else did you have in mind? Sparky: Getting our wings and fighting Blingons! Grahack: The Blingons are a minor threat to the Federation. Fensly: He's right! There are other much more serious threats out there! Things that have yet to be discovered! Sparky: Wha-? Grahack: ...? Bob: Uh...hi. You are...? Fensly: Fensly! Henry Fensly. Head science officer here at Brickius base. Sparky: Hey Grahack... I think this is your new boss. Grahack: ... It would appear so. Bob: Well uh... it's a pleasure to meet you! I'm Bob and these are my friends. Grahack and Sparky. Fensly: Pleasure! Grahack: I beg your pardon but may I ask what this "threat" you speak of is? Fensly: Zastros of course! Bob, Sparky, and Grahack: Zastros? HI LEGOMONORAILFAN. C&C is most welcome to continue the story! "Zonia" and "Spearhead" is from the Jim Spaceborn comics. "Bricksworth" is a parody of Chatsworth Osborne Jr. from the show "The Many Loves Of Dobie Gillis" more updates to come!
  20. [MOC] [WIP] Large scale C-3PO

    In 2012 LEGO released 10225, the UCS R2-D2. It remains one of my favorite sets of all time, but I've always felt like something was missing... and now with a new BB-8 model coming (that appears to be in the same scale as R2-D2), it's obvious that C-3PO needs to be done next. So I set out to build one myself... and so far I've succeeded... kind of. Legs by Brikkyy13 ., on Flickr back by Brikkyy13 ., on Flickr Sections by Brikkyy13 ., on Flickr With R2-D2 by Brikkyy13 ., on Flickr Currently we're looking at 1295 pieces, and it can only get bigger. The original plan was to have it in scale with the R2-D2 set, but since I'm a bit lazy instead of doing measurements I just eyeballed it, using the size of his feet to judge how big everything should be. So the feet ended up being in scale with R2, and everything else accidentally turned out bigger. I didn't actually realize this until I took the screenshots, and I was too proud of my work to go back and change it. The next step is to make C-3PO's feet bigger to be in scale with the rest of his legs, and to continue working upwards from there. I intend on bricklinking all the parts and building this bad boy for my collection once it's finished. I will eventually post the lxf and/or instructions too. I'll update this post as I update the model. Any and all feedback is appreciated. Thanks for checking it out!
  21. The telehandler, what a funny machine. They are commonly used to lift containers, dirt, hay, and other things a excavator cannot reach. This is the kind of telehandler I was trying to make, a cat tl642c. I did not own more than 7 yellow parts, so that goes out the window. I kind of used it for inspiration, and made a few changes. Overview : The telehandler steering uses 2 gear racks, and a set a gears to reach the cabin, they must be aligned, like 42009, but they have only minor backlash. The outriggers lock in place using friction pins*, and stay locked, holding the vehicle in the air. The boom uses a linear actuator to lift, and a worm gear to tilt. The extention is 18 studs thanks to a special system, it uses a (+00) with a 3l axle through it, so only extending, there is no need to lift the piece. If I can find all my head racks, it will change to a gear rack setup. The model: the bevel steers, and the spur gear raises boom. Outriggers: front and rear: front outriggers fit outside boom. Boom: lift, extend. LA lift (1.667:1) 12 stud extension. the white piece allows it to stay extended. goes into middle hole. Fork: tilt. some pics would not post, coming soon. can i please get some comments, my last few mocs have gotten about 3 replies, so c&c please.
  22. Hello everyone, I'm presenting you the startout of my latest MOC: the Peterbilt 579. Here are the functions it will have: -Drive(2 L motors) -Steering(with servo) -Working steering wheel(servo) -Gearbox shifting(M motor) -suspension(Independent on front, springless dual axle on rear) -suspended cab -opening doors and hood(discreet mechanism) Here's what I have: You can see the drivetrain is basically complete, and the springless dual axle (don't worry, it's not the 42070 setup ;)) There will be double wheels on the rear. Diagram of the suspension. And that's all I have for now. I have also started think about the grille and bodywork. Bodywork wizards, please leave a suggestion as to how I can make those because I'm drawing blanks Thanks for reading, updates soon! BrickbyBrickTechnnic
  23. So drones are something new to the technic MOC line (I guess). This drone, the DJI Mavic pro, is the third drone I'm building. The other two are a generic drone and the GoPro Karma. Here's a picture of the Mavic. I'm doing it in white as oppose to DBG due to the general lack of panels in DBG. It will have 2 functions: -Rotating propellers -Control over the camera Here are my progress pictures. C&C is wanted as I'm not sure if I've gotten the lines right. The gray thing are too big. I'll fix that. So That'sit. Any help you can give on capturing the lines of this beautiful drone will be more than helpful. Thanks! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  24. The rules I am outlining for myself for this different no electric motors, no batteries, 100% Lego, and No Pneumatics. I am doing this because of the cheap price of Pull-Back Motors on BL, so I thought It would be worth a try! My first idea was basically to use a singe pull back and go motor and the large motorcycle wheels. It would look something like this: But It was not fast enough ( : So I have the Idea to actually add more Pull-Back motors. Using 4 of the newest ones I am hoping to get an increased speed using this method I have 3 more of these motors on order and am eagerly awaiting their arrival. I want to see if anyone else on this forum might have another idea I am willing to hear their ideas.
  25. Hi fellow Eurobrickers, when we wait for 42069, 42068 and 42053 sets review, I use opportunity to present one of my WIP projects that I'm currently working on for about half a year. It is a 1:17.5 model of John Deere R 4038 Self propelled sprayer, but equipped with flotation tires, so I can enjoy mocing with Xerion tires. At the moment I'm not sure if there will be fake sprayer or spreader, will see what future brings. Major difference from original is the drive which I can make only full mechanical. You all know that hydrostatic drive can not be made with LEGO parts. This is the first MOC where I do not have to worry that it will be to wide, since real ones are up to 4,4 meters wide which is 31 stud... This MOC will feature - fake 6 cylinder engine - all wheel drive - all wheel steering - all wheel independent suspension - front and rear pto (since I can not simulate hydraulic valves) - bonnet opening... will see what is possible. So far I've managed to make right and left wheel hubs, which you can see in following images. (sorry for bad image quality, I'll make better images when front axle will be finished, which I plan this week). On the right side of every image you can see something like building steps (not real instructions, but kind of help if someone wants to build it). Any kind of comment, critics is wellcome. Thank you