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Found 271 results

  1. Introduction : Sigrid's journal "We were called to a meeting with the other village leaders yesterday. Jarl Elisif wanted us all to know about the victory at the Enchanted Forest. Of course, the word had already spread, and everyone was already talking about how Jarl Thimolir's bear cavalry saved the day. After months of tensions, even the most ardent sceptics now seem to veer to the side of the Queen. And that's great news. Instead of worrying about a possible war, we can now hope for peace. Instead of focusing on arming and training our people, I can now step back and also plan for the long term. It's time to rebuild Horgaard." In order to assist my sigfig's efforts to rebuild her village, I'm going to build a mead hall. And given that this is the first time I'll build such a MOC, I expect a lot of thinking, a lot of trial and error, and a lot of time. During the months by the housewarming hallwarming party, here is the thread where I'll track the progress of the construction and all the thinking behind. History Chapter 1. What could it look like? Chapter 2. Of roofs and doors Chapter 3. Woodworking Chapter 4. Construction delays Current state
  2. Poor ship. I have to say, I am not a huge fan of its looks. It is like an UPS truck, or a beat-down cab in poorer part of the city. Gets the job done and offers just minimal creature comforts. On top of that this particular ship had no easy life either. If I had to write all the accidents it had I'd basically describe half or more of the story of the Mandalorian show, so to avoid spoilers - go watch it yourself. For now just believe me: Millennium Falcon had really easy and nice life compared to the Razor Crest. I did not plan to build it initially, but Brickvault guys asked me one time if I would and I agreed. After all this is quite a small ship, right? And boxy, easy shape, right? So I'll just do a month or maybe month-and-half detour from my plan, riiight? Oh boy. This aged like milk. We talked in May and, uh, I am not done yet, but more on that later :D This one-and-half month detour took half of the year, almost 5k pieces and was far harder than I expected it would be. Once again, an angular thing proves to be far more difficult in LEGO than a curved one. Got a tiny angle wrong and everything falls apart. And the size? Just about 70 studs. Yeah. There goes "quite a small ship". Btw, would you consider it an UCS or minifig scale, considering it is... kinda... both? So what do we have here? 5k pieces, a bit over 3 kilos of mass, plenty of features, internal frame strong enough to do this: I had some fun at, uh, "temporary local beach" (on quite a high floor!) ...and on the Levitating Plate: All the hatches open: there are also additional hatches to access interior details. Truth to be told, access is not great. This is not really a play model because it is so heavy, but you can adjust stuff inside. The cockpit seats three, front seat folds for easy access to the back row: ...and of course there's plenty of space for Mando's quarries: So, why is it not done yet? I probably got the roof angle wrong. Actually, I definitely got it wrong. But is it a big deal? What do you think? Should I just proceed with instructions "as-is" or would like to see this updated? Or maybe you actually like this slightly slanted roof section? Instructions will be available on brickvault when complete, and there's a nice preorder for reduced price for now: ------------------------------------------------------------ Razor Crest Update #1! I believe that's final design. Roof is now properly flattened, while still retaining minscule but noticeable wing angle, section behind the cockpit has been changed for better shape, and engines were updated thanks to ScottishDave's input on Eurobricks. Now I need to update the studio model (not too hard, should be few hours at worst) and I can get to making instructions. In the meantime, Brickvault will commence their internal review to ensure there are no flaws in the model, parts lists or instructions. I'd like to thank everyone who preordered, commented and liked - fantastic support from you all! Stay tuned for future updates! Thanks for viewing! EDIT: The instructions are released - to be found on !
  3. Greetings, shipwrights. Whether a novice, an apprentice, a master, or a veteran shipwright, following the process of others, sharing your own, and giving and receiving feedback can help everyone improve. What's the point? This is just a place for all of us liberally to post WIP's for feedbacks, tips, suggestions, and questions, without otherwise littering the BoBS forum with WIP's. You can post just one step in the process, or several over a period. It's all up to you. So I am working on a vessel/ship - what do I do? Post one or more pictures, questions, ship-plans, descriptions, etc. here, and hopefully someone will step in with some wonderful advice. At least, I expect to do so. I know NOTHING about ships - can I comment, and how do I do? Everyone with something constructive to say can comment. No need to be a scholar in historic vessels, medieval carpentry or sail making. Sometimes it might just be aesthetics, a crazy idea, a suggestion for a technique, use of a specific brick, or whatever you can think of. Just keep it nice and constructive. In return, builders posting here will pwomise not to take offense! I'd suggest tagging the builder you are commenting on. But I am not an expert - the arrogant elite will laugh at my puny attempts at shipbuilding! First of all, the arrogant elite was not invited. In fact, they have been given specific instructions to go back to their fancy little elitist coffee houses to talk about how brilliant they are. Secondly, regarding puny attempts, take a look at my first attempt at a ship just two and a half years ago... Well, you really don't have to look. Move along... Nothing to see here... The rather obvious point being, we all start somewhere, and no matter where you start, or how steep your learning curve is. The only requirement is that you want to share your process, learn from others, share your ideas, and/or improve. Soooo, is this something official? What will I gain from participating? EGS bonuses? HAH! This is merely me gone rogue - and I may hang from my toes for it! No official bonuses here. However, I'd like to see a bit more focus on the process and techniques of building here, and I think ships is an interesting place to start. This is, however, quite likely to be replaced, superseded, or added to by something official at some point in the future. Who manages this and keeps the record? Manages? Keeps records? Bwahahaha - forget it! Just post your WIP's and comments. Don't overthink it! ________________________________________________________________________ Kick off! Oooohkay, here we go: I have been working on a 4th rate, circa 50 guns on two decks. I present to you: The HMS Endeavour. Started here: Went here: And have ended here: She is supposed to be the first in a series of 4th rates designed for colonial waters. A 4th rate is a small ship of the line between 46 and 60 guns, just above frigate size. This one is (IC) specifically designed to serve as flagship for colonial squadrons, sailing in consort with frigates and sloops. Looking forward to hearing your comments! And to see your WIP's!
  4. So I have (slowly) begun working on a castle, the Castle of Syndrifel. I started on the great hall and kitchen, because let's be honest, even minifigures get hungry. After building the great hall, I began to realize just how big this thing will be. I'm planning on building it in modular secutions due to the real estate it will take up. Do the colors look ok? Too much dark grey? Etc. The first two photos are the great hall and kitchen, sans furniture for the most part. A minifigure is there for scale. The white arch there is also just a place holder, as are the transparent bricks behind the royal table. Some furniture I've been working on. The far left might be counters, but I'm really not fans. The middle tan and black will probably be shelves and tables in the kitchen. Far right are 99% sure to be benches. Should I start building from the ground up? Right now I have ane idea of the walls. Ignore the white bricks, they're place holders, as are the full on dark gray. I'm thinking 12x12 for the towers, aside from the main gaates which might be 12x14 or something to give a bit more room. The center 4x4 will be filled in as well. I have six of those built, which are the amount of towers I plan on building.
  5. keymaker

    [WIP] UAZ 3151

    Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
  6. Hello everyone! In these hard times I began my old dream to come true - I have started developing a car. This is definitely not a sport/super/hyper car. My aim is to build a luxury sedan. Brand will me mentioned later, I assume after the chassis with drive train will be done (if it would). As for now I'm going to build fully manual version with advanced realistic suspension with pneumatic brakes,, 4WD (actually original has only RWD, but full is more interesting and complex), interesting V/W 8-12 fake engine and rotating gearbox shifters on the steering wheel (initial and genuine idea by @Charbel), detailed interior. And from the very beginning I've faced with difficulties: Those ball-joints are very hard to rotate, the route from the steering rack to the wheel should be the strongest and the simplest in one time. Still no idea for the rear brakes implementation. No room for the fake engine prototype. I want to use regular cylinder parts, but with the crankshaft from the 42078 set (as example). Too hard to place front drivetrain, steering axle, gearbox and gearbox shifters. At my point I think I need 100*100 studs place to handle all this. I'm afraid I'll have to refuse from the front driving feature to handle all other modules. But who knows. And the last fear is the political situation in my country, I don't want to discuss it here, but the mood is very sad and I can be repressed anyway, though.
  7. I'm curious - What stuff do you use in/for MOC-ing besides Lego? I feel it's a bit like fishing - you can do with just the bare minimum - a stick, a string and a bait, but a folding chair, a good fishing rod and a beer makes it a lot better as an experience. So, let's summarize a MOC builder's starter toolkit :) My toolkit for MOCs is the following: 0. Lego pieces - no way of skipping those 0. Organizers or big plastic trays to have the parts accessible and visible Scale model car/truck/tank/thing for referencing and proportions - I've used a VW camper van 1/32 toy for real-life measuring - saved me a lot of time. /optional/ Bunch of google images and youtube videos of the MOC's topic - to get a feel of the proportions and/or mechanisms inside. For C-models - always open tab with the set's inventory - helps fight over-committing pieces in non-essential places. PDF instructions of other MOCs or official Lego models if I need to borrow a mechanism or technique idea. Sariel's toolkit - - very good tools, honestly. The scale tool and the thumbnail generator do wonders. I'm not that advanced in Technic building to use the gears tool yet. LDD/ / LDcad / Mecabricks - if/when you go digital / or create instructions later/ Empty table, two A2 posters converted to a white backdrop, a tripod and my phone / cheap camera / for some glory shots to be shared later. 4x the time I think it should take... /Then add 2x time again for all the glory shots/videos of the mechanisms/* *Yes, time is a tool too ;) Environmentally - what helps you MOC? Separate desk? Wall of organizers? Any kind of music that helps you work better? Or podcasts? I've made my best MOCs during the night listening to Joe Rogan's podcasts. I don't feel sleepy if a podcast is running. Living on a boulevard makes day moc-ing a bit harder - night time's quietness makes me work better. I build on my work desk at home - a wireless keyboard does wonders for your space :) What software do you use? For digital building PDF editting Image editting Video editting For me it's for digital building and PDF generation. The flex tool is terrible, but the other stuff in it has a flow. I've tried LDcad but I'm lost there. LDD is clunky too, maybe they need more time to get the results I want. Mecabricks is enigma to me - I mainly use it on work pcs as a 3D model viewer. For images and video - the embedded Photos app + Paint 3D /Windows 10/ are sufficient. You can crop and adjust lighting. Not great, not terrible. The video editor is very basic but to the point. Paint 3D is actually quite capable while still being not very rich in functionality. You can copy paste the below text for your entries in this topic if you wish :) Thank you for your time
  8. This ship was heavily inspired by set 4195 (Queen Anne's Revenge) for the ship itself and set 31109 for the brick-built sails + pirate flag. The vessel is named the "Hell Bent", and is crewed by sailors-turned-demons, led by Captain Victor "Jawbone" Blucher. It will be built after the "Silver Crab" pirate ship is done. The vessel has eight cannons ready to fire at a moments notice. The rear of the ship has the nameplate on the stern, right below the custom brick-built pirate flag. The model has a removable steering area for access to the captain's quarters, which has a desk and chair with two wall lanterns nearby. Captain Victor (the figure on the right side) lost his lower jaw after a pistol shot at a vision of The Man Upstairs rebounded unto him, and was turned into a demon (along with his crew) by said entity for his crime against nature. He also gained an painful iron jawbone as an additional punishment, and so he could communicate with his crew verbally. The Hell Bent and it's crew have roamed the 7 seas for about 28 years now, only allowed to enter a port once every seven years for a week. Just like the legendary storm-tossed Flying Dutchman and it's infernal crew, this ship is a bad omen at sea for merchants, but strangely is considered a good one for pirates, since it was a pirate ship to begin with. Usually, if the ship is sighted by a merchant ship, the crewmate who saw it will then die and join the demon-crew's ranks, but for pirates, it is allowed to get closer to exchange news of the world via bags of mail / news clippings / etc. sent over in waterproofed bags. (In reality, I'm going to use Nexo Knights lava soldiers' heads and torsos for the crew and captain.) If you have any thoughts, questions, complaints, suggestions, or comments, please post them below!
  9. Hey guys, here is a long-anticipated project of mine that I'm finally starting. It is a model of NJ Transit's 2020 New Flyer XD60 articulated bus. My model will be fully motorized, with remote-controlled drive, steering, and opening doors. It'll be either controlled by the PF IR system or by SBrick. The model will be propelled by a PF XL motor, which is already in place. The power source is a PF 8878 battery sitting in the very rear of the chassis. So far I have the rear portion of the chassis built - just missing most of the seats. I've already been building the model digitally on for about a month, mostly working on the chassis, so this part should be done relatively soon. However, this is not taking into consideration any potential issues that may arise as I build the chassis in real life. I also have prototypes for the doors' and bellows' mechanisms ready (not pictured), and they seem to work pretty well. So overall, it'll just be a matter of putting these mechanisms together into a coherent chassis. Aesthetics wise, my model will mostly be about the outside appearance, which means I'll focus much more on the bodywork than the interior details-wise. However, the seating layout will still be identical to the original bus, with a total of 59 seats. This is definitely a project I'm really looking forward to. It'll be the first time I model a particular real-life vehicle. I'm a huge fan of NJ Transit's buses and buses in general, and these artics IMO are some of the best buses they've ordered in recent years. And because I'm doing a digital build while simultaneously building in real life, I plan on publishing instructions for this MOC when it's finished. Photo:
  10. Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...
  11. Hello folks! I am building a Chevy Monte Carlo Nascar. This is my first technic MOC on which I will be building bodywork based on a real car. The car will be using: two XL motors, one M motor, two receivers, one LIPO battery box. It will have no gearbox, and it will be based off this picture. Thank you @Sariel for having your model scaler available to the world. Cheers Let's Build
  12. Hello everyone! Today I'd like to show you the model that I've been working on for more than two years, it's my first MOC in this scale that is actually close to being finished. It was rebuild from scratch dozen times and still requires bodywork. The MOC is LaFerrari in 1:8 scale: Origially I had a lot of ideas and great ambitions, but over time I realized that I just don't have enough skill to make everything I wanted. So current version has following features: independent suspension; 2 L motors for driving; Servo motor for steering; working steering wheel; 8 speed sequential gearbox driven by M motor; spacious interior with low seats positioning; powering with standard LEGO PF. Proportions: width - 29 studs; height - 15-16 studs; length - about 70 studs, don't know yet. Originally I wanted to use bigger wheels but then I stopped on 68.8. The thing is that front section of the car are too low so there won't be any place for arches with bigger wheels. Battery box is located in front of the car because everything behind seats is one huge gearbox. It just lays on its own weight and will be covered on the top with something black. This way you won't see most of gray and light gray parts through the bonnet. Distance between seats is only 3 studs and every seat is 7 studs wide. There's no free space between them - only a few hidden cables there. This is how it looks without seats: Top and bottom views: The whole core of the car is basically done. It's pretty sturdy and doesn't bend when you hold it. In current state it has about 1600 pieces. The most challenging part of the build at this point is a gearbox. It had to be very compact because car is so low. In this LDD file you can investigate all gears: speed gearbox.lxf Here are some renders of gearbox without stepper. Green axles are input from motors. There are 3 clutches here and they give 8 unique combinations of their engagement. L motors are slowed down significantly. This is because they are not powerful enough to make this car fast. Here's a stepper mechanism that I used to move all 3 clutches: Green things should be connected with white rubber bands, they hold axles in fixed 90-degrees positions. There's a strong resemblance with 42056 Porshe's gearbox here, I know it. That model helped a lot with the inspiration. My plan is to finish bodywork but it's the hardest thing for me. This is the exact reason why I'm creating this topic - to get help/critique while I'm finishing the model. LaFerrari has quite complex shape and I should have chosen something more simple for my first MOC. But I already spent way too much time so I have to finally finish it. Leave your thoughts here, I'm very curious of what you might say. Thank you!
  13. General MOC-Discussion Ahoy! Ever felt like there's not enough general talk going on here about what matters most in these waters - MOCs? Ever got frustrated over a certain issue with a WIP that you could need help with? Ever thought about posting a WIP but didn't think it would deserve its own thread? Ever wanted to announce a huge, mind boggling, or simply your next project and ask your fellow EB members what they think about that idea? Or have you ever just felt the urge to tease everyone with a blurred picture of your creation or some facts about it before releasing it for good? Well, hesitate no further, this is the place for you! Use this thread as a vessel for all the otherwise unmentioned MOC related talk, use it to discuss sail sizes and capstan designs, ask for ideas, help others with their MOC issues and tease your fellow mateys... with pics of your creations, of course
  14. snowvictim

    [MOC] St. Alexander's Church

    Greetings! I have recently took upon myself the task of recreating one of my favourite buildings lost to the ravages of war: St. Alexander's Church in Warsaw, Poland. It's quite an ambitious project (over 20,000 bricks) that I intend to finish by October. Background information: The church was completed in 1825 and was built in the neoclassical style. In the 1890s, the Russians, who occupied Poland, decided to remodel the building architecturally and expand it considerably. The temple was practically intact following the German invasion of Poland in 1939, and was almost completely razed to the ground as part of the planned destruction of Warsaw in late 1944 (only one of the bell towers survived). After the war, the church was rebuilt, however in its original form, not the one after the 1890 alteration (probably due to a combination of insufficient funding and the opposition to the Church by the new communist regime). My aim was to rebuild the church as it stood between 1890 and 1944. Notes on the build: Dimensions: the building itself measures 132cm x 76cm x 54cm (the build is situated on a 2x4 grid of 48x48 baseplates) Many people may be annoyed by this, but I decided not to build the interior for two reasons; one is practical, the other is technical. As for practicality, I came up with an idea to insert some LED lighting into the church so that it can be illuminated, which should combine beautifully with the trans-coloured bricks that make up the stained glass windows. Inserting a power source, wiring, lights, controlled, etc. may have been problematic with a completed interior. Regarding technicality, I conducted a lot of photographic research before designing the model in Studio. While pictures of the exterior are not difficult to come by (owing to the fact that the church was one of the architectural crown jewels of pre-war Warsaw), I had only found one of the interior, and the quality of it was insufficient to provide an appropriate representation of the interior. Although written accounts of the interior do exist, I wanted to stay true to the original. Granted, one cannot replicate everything in Lego (especially me, a mediocre builder at best), but I didn't want my imagination to taint the build. Photos of the actual church: (The church after being destroyed. Notice the one surviving bell tower. The bricks you can see in the foreground came from the church and were used to build other buildings for the returning population following their expulsion after the failure of the Warsaw Uprising). Renders: Note: the renders aren't complete, primarily because of technical limitations. I'm running an Intel i7 with a GTX 1080 and even that setup struggles sometimes. Also, the angles of the build make working in Studio annoying at times. Some elements that I wanted to put Studio considers as colliding with others (particularly when it comes to the dome), so I've decided to just do them in real life instead. These include the top of the dome, the roofing adjacent to the dome base, the statues on the roof, and some minor details here and there. The greatest challenge will be the walls of the dome; as you can see they're empty, and I may have to resort to non-Lego means. Building: More to follow! Most of the workpace is dictated by how fast the BrickLink orders arrive at my place.
  15. Hey guys, here's a new MOC I'm working on. This MOC will be an experiment in combining the new Mindstorms with Control+ to control 6 motors with a single hub. It will be powered and controlled by the new Mindstorms hub, with 4 angular motors for drive (1 per wheel) and Control+ motors for elevation and tilting. With the new Mindstorms having much better form factor than EV3, I anticipate it being much easier to use in my MOCs than EV3. The loader is inspired by the CASE SV340 skid-steer loader. However, some parts of that vehicle, especially the rounded section of the arms towards the rear, will be difficult to model with Lego pieces, so I won't model this after any specific skid-steer loader. So far, I have the chassis built. It's a compact chassis made of 4 angular motors sandwiched between two 11x15 frames. The wheels are driven through planetary hubs, giving it lots of torque. This gives me a good starting point to attach other elements, such as the arm mechanisms and the Mindstorms hub. This will definitely be an interesting build. When I learned that the new Mindstorms is cross-compatible with C+ thanks to both being in the Powered Up ecosystem, I knew I just had to make a MOC combining them. If all goes well, I'll definitely be experimenting more with the new Mindstorms in the future. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  16. Hi there everybody, since some of you asked for more WIP topics in the "Decreasing number of MOCs" topic, I thought I would take you along with my latest project, hopefully from start to finish. I wanted to build a drift car, and what other car ycould that be than the Nissan Silvia? deciding between S13, S14 and S15 was pretty easy, since pop up headlights are awesome. So I went for the most suitable model, the 180SX Type X. A quick search on google brought up this Blueprint. Not perfect, but good enough. Since this is a car with the classic FR layout I took the 6-speed manual transmission from my Nissan R32 GTR MOC and removed the AWD. I'ts running very smooth. After the pop-up headlights were completed I started modelling the front bumper. This bumper is really difficult, all the proportions are hard to recreate from bricks. I tried it like this, and while it is pretty accurate these stacked plates dont look very nice. Often it is better to choose the less accurate but better looking solution, so that's what I'll try next. I would love if someone could suggest a solution for the front lip that wraps all around the bottom of the bumper. It is 1.7 studs high and the angle does not want to match any solution I come up with. I know this does not look like much, but thats what happens when you look at the early stages of a MOC. I hope you enjoyed this, I'll try to keep you updated on my progress. Gray Gear
  17. Another RC motor MOC I am working on. This time the RC motors will be configured differently - they are located in the chassis, placed in a cross configuration so that their inner outputs are lined up. There is a 2-speed remote controlled gearbox at the heart of the chassis along with the RC motors and there will be full long-travel suspension. The front suspension module is already complete, and it will be attached at an angle for positive caster. There will still be some gearing down in the rear suspended portion (e.g. with portal hubs) to ensure the model has sufficient torque. As the name might suggest, this is the third model in my Red Beryl series (not sure why I chose that name, honestly ). It'll be a typical trophy truck with either a fully red body or red with black detailing. I've always wanted to use my older-generation Technic panels from the 8436 set, sorta combining two generations of Lego Technic. Like a typical trophy truck, there will be one or two spare wheels in the back. Like my previous MOC, it will all be controlled by BuWizz. Photo:
  18. Hello Everybody, I started since long with an ambitious MOC, a mobile port crane. I'll try to make it to a finished product, parts and motivation permiting. I'm not so good at inventing new models from scratch and design them well. but here goes... It will be sort of a combination between to models, one frome Liebherr and the other from Kone cranes. My model has 8 sets of 2 wheels, all of them are steered and 2 sets of wheels are driven by an XL-motor. The Steering mechanism is driven by an L-motor. The outriggers are also driven by 2 L-motors. In the above picture, the 4 centre bogies were driven, but I already changed the design, so only 2 are driven now, and the drive itself has been changed also. The centre outrigger mechanism and the outriggers are based on the design of IVAN MOCS concrete pump. Here two outriggers are completely finished, I'm waiting for spare parts to finish the other 2 outriggers. in this foto I already put the slewing arrangement based on the one from the 42082 RTC.
  19. jorgeopesi

    Four WIPs

    I have 4 possible projects which is very unusual... and I do not know which one restart so I need your help, I will tell you some about them. 1 Broyt excavator, impressive machine with 6 functions but difficult part in the transmision to the last LAs, a big challenge, I could use 6 motors but it would not be my style. 2 Volvo front shovel, another recent discovery with 6 functions too, I could use the 8043 bucket. 3 Komatsu PC 5500, I chose this because it has the best proportion with the big LAs, I always wanted to do a better front shovel after my Caterpillar 6090 MOC, more playable, less pieces and the possibility of build a machine with two different arms, excavator or front shovel to can change between them, it would be a large project. 4 F40 competizione, without suspensions to can have a better bodywork, but just because it is a car is the one that attracts me the least, maybe without gearbox too to can have less pieces. I like a lot almost all of them and I do not know which one to choose, I always wanted to do a tracked loader but I do not find a original one that I likes enough, I like the concept but they are so ugly... I like too the underground machinery but I have already done enough wheel loaders and dumpers. Another problem would be that we have new useful parts and I hate build something that can be done better with parts I do not have yet... This is a part of my thoughts that sometimes are useful to scape from the reality.
  20. Some of you may remember my Azure Racer from a few years ago. It was a small simple buggy that was meant to be a leisurely build after my BrickFair VA projects of that summer. It had only one L motor for drive, but had decent speed. This model will be a sequel to that - it'll be larger (with Unimog tires), dark azure instead of medium azure, and powered by BuWizz and driven by 2 RC motors. In fact, this will be my first MOC to use BuWizz and RC motors - something I wanted to get for years and finally obtained two of them. The front axle will be a double wishbone independent suspension using shocks from the 9398 set. I haven't used them in years, and it's nice to bring them back again. The rear suspension will also be independent, but it'll be the RC motors themselves that are part of the suspension. Each motor will be connected to one wheel that'll be mounted on its own pivot point and shock absorber, essentially creating an independent suspension. I'm really looking forward to building this model. With the BuWizz on ludicrous or fast powering 2 RC motors driving a relatively lightweight model, I anticipate getting A LOT of speed out of this thing. Photo:
  21. Terrasher

    [WIP] UCS Jabba's Sail Barge

    Work In Progress Ever since I bought the Sail Barge (75020) in 2013, I fell in love with the ship. It quickly became my favorite set. Sadly, recently, I've been taking apart most of my non-UCS sets to make room for the bigger models and to have more pieces to MOC with. I had refrained from wrecking the Barge and the MTT from 2007 because they were my two favorite sets. Eventually, when I got into making car MOCs (Chevrolet Bel Air and Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II), I took both sets apart to make a brown Plymouth Special Deluxe but, after seeing I didn't have enough brown bricks to go through with the project, all the pieces just laid there. Now, while waiting for the UCS Millenium Falcon to come back in stock, I've been having the minifigure-scale fever. I've built a couple of rebel ships (X-Wing (MOD), Y-Wing (WIP), A-Wing (Bought the latest one)) and now, after seeing all he brown pieces I had in stock and all the cool minifigures I wanted to use for some iconic scene, I've tackled Jabba's Sail Barge - The Khetanna. Here it is with my Desert Skiff and the brand new parts that have just arrived: There's a full interior for the barge. Kitchen, droid torture room, "lobby", driver's cabin and, of course, the party room at the back. I'll post pics of the interior as well as more of the outside once I make some progress with the new parts.
  22. I'm doing something simple this time after building two complex MOCs. Given that I'm busy with college right now, this should be a pretty manageable project for me. It'll be a simple tracked loader model with subtractor drive. I've already got the subtractor mechanism built, and it'll likely be the rear sprockets that'll be driven. The propulsion motor is a C+ XL and the steering motor is a C+ L. The C+ hub will likely sit in the front of the chassis towards the bottom (assuming it's the rear sprockets that'll be driven) and bucket elevation/tipping will be a C+ XL and C+ L, respectively. As for the bodywork, I'm planning on making it bright light orange with the pieces from the 42099 set. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  23. Hi everyone, this time I want to show you another work-in-progress MOC, but this one is more recent. The reason why I want to do this is quite obvious - LEGO releases their Lambo this year, and I am also aware of at least one Aventador MOC coming soon. We should have even more Lamborghinis, they are awesome and I can't wait to see these models. My version is a dark blue + white model in 1:8 scale with some basic functions: Steering with working steering wheel. Openable scissors doors. 7+R gearbox. Remote control using a single Control+ hub: 2 coupled XL motors for drive; L motor for steering; L motor to change speeds. This time I decided to build everything independantly and simultaniously. It actually helped me to become much more productive. I'll start with the bodywork. It's not completed and is built around a very crude carcass. I'm trying to concentrate on the shape only. There will be enough space on the inside, I'm taking this into account while building. As you see, it's about 60% completed. Front section is not done yet, but the back looks almost completed and I really like how it turned out. Reminds me a "snowboard glasses" a little (don't know how to call them but I'm sure you get what I mean): Of course, these gaps will have black background in the future and I will add some filler to them as well. Rear wing also looks completed, it might be my favorite part of the build, here you can see it from another side: Now I want to show a door closely. I tried to replicate scissors mechanism as closely as I could. First version used shock absorber and was way too big. The proble is that it has to be very close to the front wheel, it's pretty hard to do. Second version required 3 small rubber bands to hold door's weight. On the following photos you will see a third version. This is how it looks being closed: This is the first step of opening when you open it just like a regular car's door: And this is how it looks when you open it in a different plane. It holds itself locked with two rubber bands that you can see at the bottom: Here's a shot from the front with both doors opened. You can see that the door on the right has "old" design, I improved on it already: Next two pictures are showing caliper on the front wheel. I wanted it to be angled just like on the real car so I had to be creative: Yes, this is a sausage piece. Calipers on the rear will also be angled, but with more conventional build. I don't have it right now so the picture will be in one of the following updates. Now car's internals. Here you can see a gearbox and rear wheels. 3 motors are clearly visible. 4th motor will be in front of the hub. The idea is that L motor will change speeds by rotating by 180 degrees, this can be done programmatically rather then mechanically. But it doesn't mean that the build is simple, because it's not. I used only one of those new orange "wave selector" gears, everything else is basically a huge improvement over the gearbox from my LaFerrari MOC, but it's 1.5 times bigger because of that "reverse" speed I added. It's actually pretty fun that I managed to use a 40 tooth gear in this model. I guess I could use 36 + 2x28, but I don't have 28 tooth gears yet: Here's a view of the bottom. A huge con of the model can be seen here - it has no central diff, but still I expect all 4 wheels to be driven. On the other hand, I left a lot of holes so I can see gears turning: This construction is not rigid enough in several points, I think I will have to completely rebuild it and ensure that it is strong enough. It's already pretty smooth and if motors won't be able to handle the weight then I can play with the gear ratios from motors - there are dedicated places in the gearbox for this exact purpose. I hope that it will become a good model and you'll like it. Thank you!
  24. Sooo it's been a while since i've posted here.. reason being that life happened Anyway also been a while since i've looked at my lego but recently i've gotten the itch to build a thing or two. Most of them are not complete and maybe never will be but I like building and it's a stress relief so why not? Pictures? Sure! Without many words. Just wanted to share them because in my opinion there are way to little tractors being built in lego form and even less tractor pullers. So here goes.. Ford County 754 Mini puller or 'mini rod' as i believe they call them in the USA.. Unlimited tractor puller with three turbine engines And last but not least, unlimited tractor puller with 16 cylinder radial engine WIP
  25. Greetings! It’s been forever since I last put up a post but I’ve finally gotten round to making some more ‘mechs! Rather than make a new topic for each one I’m going to keep adding more and more to this, and I’ve even remembered to take some work in progress pics as well which I will try and add as I go along as there’s always room for tips! And now, first up is the SPN-Ae “Egyptian” A slight challenge but a very pleasing build over the course of several months (I get about 15-20 mins free build time most week days) and I’m very satisfied with the end result. I think the shaping is good, streamlined, and putting in the orange was a big step for me in deviating away from the more plain colours. A lot of all the new parts I have to build with have come from the recent City Space range and that’s largely where the colour scheme comes from, and I’ll often not use stickers if I’m buying sets purely to build with but I think they work well here and add something to the builds. I still need to fill a gap on the inside of each leg, just in front of the joint. I need either a single square stud or to change a piece on the inside to fill it. The other change I may make is to fit a ball joint on the two shoulder stud launchers to allow them to move a lot more. As always; thoughts, comments, constructive criticism. Like all my mech builds this one is also loosely based off of a dinosaur, any guesses as to which one? Bonus WIP pictures for it that I forgot to upload at the time: