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Normally I'm a slow builder and have no chance finishing something within such a short time. Still full of impressions from our last visit to the RhB in Graubünden/Switzerland I started thinking about a "Baudiensttraktor TM 2/2 92" - a MOW vehicle. Unfortunately my prototype does no longer exist and I have not seen this in real life. I only have external links: e.g. www.beretta-modelle.ch/gleisbaumaschinen/html/body_rhb_tm... First design is 6x10 studs with Cicuit Cubes motor, running on 4 wide "narrow gauge" tracks. This is as small as I could build - with motorization: In stud.io the black/grey front thingy (what is the English word for it?) touches the rails. So I wanted to test if this is a problem in the real world. I'm using LEGO rubber bands for almost all my builds to get more traction - and these make the (tiny) difference. So my vehicle can move without touching the rails. But I was unhappy with the proportions. The front of the prototype almost looks like a square. My tractor looked too narrow. So I started with 8x12. Again I wanted to make sure it can handle switches and does not touch the rails: So the basic design seems finished - but it needs more details While searching for missing parts I need to order, I noticed that the 1x2 tile with the diagonal stripe pattern does not exist I do not know what sticker I used during import in to stud.io. So I need to use a different part with existing pattern or make a custom sticker. I do not know if this is a legal "thirs party part".
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Ever since building my Classic Dump Truck from two years ago, I felt like it was a model that could be greatly improved upon. The original model was built at a relatively small scale, though I was able to put a good number of functions in the model. This will be the sequel to that model, and at a much larger scale. Stud.io model so far: I've immediately put a good amount of electronic components in the model. This model will use Control+ elements; a large angular motor is used for drive, which is 4WD on this model (unlike the previous smaller version which was RWD). Thanks to it having an output on both the front and rear, it is able to easily form a longitudinal driveshaft while oriented vertically. Note the extendable CV joint in the driveshaft - this will allow the driveshaft to be easily disconnected to access the Control+ hub battery compartment. Hopefully it's not an issue when the drivetrain is under stress, especially with the gearing down at the differentials. I also included a flat-6 piston engine connected to the drivetrain. I initially used 14:22 heavy duty differentials and planetary hubs, but found the resulting speed to be painfully slow so I changed it to 12:28 differentials and wheel hubs without gear reduction for a good speed/torque balance. As for the design, the model will have a yellow cab built mostly using Technic but also with some System details. I initially wanted to make the cab orange again, with the same color scheme as the previous version, but I found the large yellow mudguards from the 42114 set to be a perfect fit for this model. So far, the design looks pretty good in Stud.io, and it definitely gives the classic pick-up truck vibe. Stud.io model with bodywork hidden: Current progress photos: -
Hi everyone, I present to you my second version of the Renfe S-130 like Ferro-Friki did some time ago. I wanted to remake this train that I made first in 2018 with not the best result so I now made this version in 7 studs. LEGO Renfe S-130 DEF [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The set is heavily detailed even in the rear of the power cars and end cars LEGO Renfe S-130 Testeros Interiores [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr I have made a reduced train set of only 7 cars instead of the 11 that has in real life but it has one of each of the different cars that form the real train with detailed interiors. First the "Preferente" end and "Preferente" LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Extremo Preferente [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Preferente [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The interiors of "Preferente" cars LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior Preferente [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The "Preferente" adapted car and it´s interior LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Preferente PMR [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior Preferente PMR [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The cafe car and it´s interior LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Cafeteria [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior cafeteria [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr And the Turista cars which are the same as preferente but with 2+2 seating arrangement LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Remolques Turista [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Remolques Turista [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr And now that I presented it I want to ask for help to build it as it will be my first lego train in real life. The car coupling mechanism that I have installed is only for aesthetical purposes and will not work in real life. Another problem is that i have seen many models in which all of the rear of the locomotive or power car pivots and I don´t know if it could be necesary to do in this case. Lastly I want to know how to motorize it, being so long I would suppose I would need the two power cars to provide power but I don´t know. Anyway, I hope you enjoy this project as much as I enjoyed designing it
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Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): https://www.dupuis.com/seriebd/zombillenium/3204 Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...
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Some progress photos of my new project, a 1:8 scale s15, one of my favourite cars. The goal is to make it as realistic as possible, but I havent decided if I will motorise it or not. At the moment I think it will either have a manual 6spd stick shift gearbox, or else no gearbox and buggy motors. So far I have built a front steering and mcpherson suspension set up, much like the real car. Currently the steering is not perfect, as the wheels have slight toe in due to the length of the steering arms. I need to order 2 of piece 80477 and hopefully that will help the issue without having to rebuild the steering system. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/200629697@N03" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53704948148_98829451dc.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt=""/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> not sure if those photos are gonna work its my first time using flickr silvia 1 by dan.vperger, on Flickr Silvia 2 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia 3 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia 4 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia underbody by dan.vperger, on Flickr -
All my bus models up to this point have been of buses currently in active service. However, my next bus model will be of an older, retired bus: Metro Transit's 2003 New Flyer D60HF. Metro Transit, the transit operator in the Minneapolis-St. Paul metropolitan area, ordered a large number of New Flyer D60HF articulated buses in the 1990s and 2000s, with the final buses in 2006 being the last high-floor articulated buses ever built in the US and Canada. Over the years, they have been gradually replaced by newer New Flyer D60LFR and XD60 articulated buses, and the final D60HF buses were retired by 2021. A number of units were bought by private owners after retirement, such as #3143 (a 2003 model), which was exhibited at the 2022 NJ Historic Bus Festival. My plan is to make my model be of bus #3143; the simple yellow/blue livery should be easy to build in LEGO so the amount of custom stickers for this model should be minimal (only the fleet numbers, Metro Transit logos, and destination signs come to mind). Thanks to the high-floor design and the boxy build of the original bus, it should be easier to incorporate mechanisms into this model as opposed to my New Flyer XD60 model as New Flyer Xcelsiors are low-floor buses. The chassis can be reinforced much better (I could probably make it 5 studs high throughout the bus, same as the rear section of my XD60 model), and I may even be able to place all electronic components and mechanisms in the chassis without placing any (e.g. the doors mechanism) in the roof. The model will use Power Functions motors and will be controlled by SBrick. The tentative list of functions/features for this model is: Drive (with two XL motors; my XD60 model with one XL motor felt a little underpowered) Steering (with working steering wheel) Pneumatically opened doors (one of these per door) Cummins engine model (with new engine elements from 42170 Kawasaki set) Bike rack (removable) The design process starts out by using my New Flyer XD60 model as a base to determine the locations of various features (axles, bellows, etc). I plan to use 49.5x14mm tires for this model, as they offer better proportions than 49.5x20mm tires. The middle and rear axles with double wheels can also be spaced further apart, allowing me to use a 5.5L axle with stop and thus prevent the half shafts from pulling out from the differential under load, an issue experienced with my XD60 model. I still need to determine the seating layout of the original bus, which will make it much easier to design the chassis without needing to make adjustments later on for the passenger seats. I also plan to use the new engine elements from the 42170 Kawasaki set in the Cummins engine model, as the axles-and-bushes design is a bit noisy and I've found it to jam a few times too when using it in my previous bus models. Side note: I have found the new Kawasaki engine pistons to not "click" properly in place to a liftarm, stud or the crank disks in Stud.io - maybe this is just due to these parts being new and not having been really refined yet in Stud.io? Would love to hear any other experiences with this. There's still much to be done, but I'm looking forward to this MOC. I've already built an articulated bus model, and this one should be more straightforward with the high-floor and boxy design. I strive to add something new in every one of my bus models, and I'm curious to see how the pneumatic doors turn out (all my previous bus models used mini linear actuators or a worm gear for the door). If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know.
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I decided to do this thread because I am tired to open new ones again and again, so enough speaking about me lets go for the almost MOCs. It seems that we are on dumpers time because I am working on this massive small truck. It will be very simple, only 2 axles steering and bed tipping but I had some problems... the angle and weigh of the bed due the lack of room when the steering work, bed itself also was a problem with technic parts and the scheme color will be a imposible to solve problem at least for the real MOC. I think I do not have to say which the truck is. -
Greetings! I have recently took upon myself the task of recreating one of my favourite buildings lost to the ravages of war: St. Alexander's Church in Warsaw, Poland. It's quite an ambitious project (over 20,000 bricks) that I intend to finish by October. Background information: The church was completed in 1825 and was built in the neoclassical style. In the 1890s, the Russians, who occupied Poland, decided to remodel the building architecturally and expand it considerably. The temple was practically intact following the German invasion of Poland in 1939, and was almost completely razed to the ground as part of the planned destruction of Warsaw in late 1944 (only one of the bell towers survived). After the war, the church was rebuilt, however in its original form, not the one after the 1890 alteration (probably due to a combination of insufficient funding and the opposition to the Church by the new communist regime). My aim was to rebuild the church as it stood between 1890 and 1944. Notes on the build: Dimensions: the building itself measures 132cm x 76cm x 54cm (the build is situated on a 2x4 grid of 48x48 baseplates) Many people may be annoyed by this, but I decided not to build the interior for two reasons; one is practical, the other is technical. As for practicality, I came up with an idea to insert some LED lighting into the church so that it can be illuminated, which should combine beautifully with the trans-coloured bricks that make up the stained glass windows. Inserting a power source, wiring, lights, controlled, etc. may have been problematic with a completed interior. Regarding technicality, I conducted a lot of photographic research before designing the model in Studio. While pictures of the exterior are not difficult to come by (owing to the fact that the church was one of the architectural crown jewels of pre-war Warsaw), I had only found one of the interior, and the quality of it was insufficient to provide an appropriate representation of the interior. Although written accounts of the interior do exist, I wanted to stay true to the original. Granted, one cannot replicate everything in Lego (especially me, a mediocre builder at best), but I didn't want my imagination to taint the build. Photos of the actual church: (The church after being destroyed. Notice the one surviving bell tower. The bricks you can see in the foreground came from the church and were used to build other buildings for the returning population following their expulsion after the failure of the Warsaw Uprising). Renders: Note: the renders aren't complete, primarily because of technical limitations. I'm running an Intel i7 with a GTX 1080 and even that setup struggles sometimes. Also, the angles of the build make working in Studio annoying at times. Some elements that I wanted to put Studio considers as colliding with others (particularly when it comes to the dome), so I've decided to just do them in real life instead. These include the top of the dome, the roofing adjacent to the dome base, the statues on the roof, and some minor details here and there. The greatest challenge will be the walls of the dome; as you can see they're empty, and I may have to resort to non-Lego means. Building: More to follow! Most of the workpace is dictated by how fast the BrickLink orders arrive at my place.
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Hello, long time lurker but never contributed anything. I been considering ideas to let my 12v trains also use the 9v/RC tracks and one of the problems was to make the 12v curved rails fit I guess other people have tried this to, but I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... I made as short video showing the process using cheap RC tracks and the next step would be using copper tape (and I need a extra set of 9v contact points) for the 9v system, not sure if I want to tape the 12v switch track but I guess I can test it out on a "broken" track. I thought that traction could be a problem but it seems to handle it well (test drive at the end of the video), there is some spinning when starting the train with "high" voltage but at soon as it moves it's coping quite well.
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Hey everyone, CrazyKreations Here is my entry into the Tc27 Moc Competition, an Aussie pickup truck with a camper trailer! We have always wanted to create a small-scale truck with 4WD, Control Plus and a special rear tray that replaces the traditional ute bed, giving this truck a more Australian style. In WA there are sooooooo many of these beautiful vehicles that go offroad every single day! (they are just pavement princesses) I wanted to add my spin on the classic pickup truck and show how this purpose-built vehicle is useful and cool, so please follow the thread below everyone, I would really appreciate it! I want to have at least the basic features below: Opening Doors, Partially opening hood Springless Front Torsion Bar suspension with inbuilt motor for steering Springless Rear reinforced axle using Torsion Bars 4-wheel drivetrain with locked differentials Multiple front bumper attachments, (3+ different bumpers to choose from) Snorkel Running Boards Fog Lights Detailed Interior Tradie tray with 5+ opening compartments including a; slide-out drawer 4 opening compartments Large canopy with separated sections for storage Slide out coffee machine and table that folds out of the tray. (Yes, it's a must) I have a few photo examples of the sort of design that I am going for and one of them looks like this: Anyway, I have this week off and next off, so I will use this time to build as much as possible and update you guys. So, my first update is the axles I am using... I wanted to incorporate springless suspension because it is more compact and also is better for the weight of the vehicle as all the attachments will make the vehicle a bit too heavy at the back. The front and rear axles are here below, I'll probably update the chassis later today or maybe tomorrow actually but please stay tuned. (I have time on my hands so I decided to put this image through Canva and mesh it into 1) Both axles are around 13 studs wide and fit the wheels that the competition allows. -
Hey guys, I'm starting a smaller project here with the aim of maximum playability. Currently I'm waiting for a huge Pick-A-Brick order to arrive for my New Flyer XD60 project, so I've decided to do a small project in the meantime, especially since I haven't published anything since January. This will be a small and simple ripsaw model equipped with a two-missile turret, using new missile elements from the Robot Inventor set. The model will probably be modular, with the body and chassis largely built modularly and connected together when finished. Currently I have the turret and some of the body built. The turret can also raise and lower, but unfortunately cannot rotate as the BuWizz unit only has 4 ports (and two will be taken by the drive motors). As for the drive motors, I plan to use 4 L motors with one connected to each sprocket, although I might also go with one RC motor per track. Overall, I see this model as an upgrade from my Lime Tracker of 2017, as this one will be driven by the more powerful L motor and feature BuWizz. I think this will be a fun little MOC to drive around. It's nice to build something else after months of work on a single project, and it'll be a great way to pass the time as I wait for parts to arrive for that project. Photos:
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Hello, I have almost finished recreation of this set and I have some photos in the process of creating, so this is a small WIP
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With my Ripsaw Tank MOC essentially done by now (just waiting for some final pieces to arrive) and my PAB order for my New Flyer XD60 articulated bus model still yet to arrive (with more pieces coming for that), I've decided to start another MOC in the meantime. This will be my second model combining Control+ and Robot Inventor after my Heavy Duty Skid-steer Loader. It will have two identical axles, each with a steering motor (medium angular motor) to control steering, and thanks to their absolute positioning feature I don't think I'll have to calibrate it every time, like on e.g. the 42099 set. I was originally planning to use Control+ L motors for the steering, and have this be a Control+ MOC, but found the medium angular motor to fit better with the absolute positioning being another plus. I plan on creating a control profile in the Mindstorms app with different sliders for normal, crab, and 4-wheel steering modes. The drivetrain consists of heavy-duty differentials and planetary hubs, so this eliminates the need for significant gearing down inside the chassis. For propulsion, I plan to use 2 Control+ XL motors, with a fake engine driven by a separate motor. This way, the fake engine can run at all times and there will be less friction in the drivetrain. I anticipate building the chassis to be pretty straightforward, as the entire chassis is essentially a mirror image with two identical axles. As for the bodywork, I'm leaning towards a red car-like body. If so, I will probably name this MOC "Red Beryl C", where "C" is for Crawler. It would be the third model in my Red Beryl series, after my Red Beryl GT of 2018 and Red Beryl X of 2019. Let me know what you think, and any suggestions you may have. Photos: The front axle, with planetary hubs, long shock absorbers, and a medium angular motor for steering: The front axle, with the wheels attached. Note that this is the underside, with the heavy-duty differential visible:
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Bluejay Way - French pirate hunter ship (4184 MOD) - WIP MOC
Murdoch17 posted a topic in Pirate MOCs
Below we see a French sailing ship called "Bluejay Way", which operates out of the Caribbean hunting for pirates on the authority of French King Louis the ??th. (Captain Du Pont has been out of touch with France for so long, he's forgotten which numbered king blessed the voyage and which one sits on the throne currently.) Who knows, and who cares: there are pirates to hunt! Viva La France! Ok, so I took set 4184 (The Black Pearl) and gave it sails inspired by set 31109 (Creator Pirate Ship) I then wanted to give it a more bluecoat flair, but the 2015 torsos and flag are VERY expensive and to hard to find in quantity, so the Bluecoats became French, and the torsos... well, I'm not revealing that bit yet! The ship has been stretched out to have another row of cannons, (bringing the total up to 8) and raising the captain's cabin up a couple bricks. The rear of the ship, up near the lanterns should feature the name "Bluejay Way" in printed 1 x 1 tiles. Also missing are the two 1 x 2 rounded edge plates for the moving rudder, and the 13 golden window pane parts. The access to the cannons' area consists of the removable deck below the smaller boat. Also of note, the last mast can be taken out to get to the captain's cabin below. Led by the brilliant Captain Gerald Du Pont, the men of the Bluejay Way are out to hunt down pirates and bring them to justice. Side note: Captain Du Pont lost his right leg to the green-coated Captain of the English pirate ship "The Yago", whom Gerald especially wants hunted down and captured by any means necessary! Here is all the stuff together.... well, almost all of it. See, I thought about adding the Creator set 31120 (Medieval Castle) and turning it into a Caribbean fortress with the "Tower' B Model turned into a lighthouse, while the "Market" C model will just be recreated in LDD as just the wall... no buildings other that that, as I think it will be cheaper than buying another copy of the $100 (US) set. Just to prove how dedicated I am to getting the Bluejay Way pirate hunter built, here is a shot of the parts collected thus far. Oh, and if you figured out Bluejay Way is a reference to the Beatles song of the same name, (in name only) you get a cookie! Comments, questions, suggestions, and comments always welcome! -
This ship was designed to replace my original micro scale ocean liner from 2011. It's not intended to represent any real liner per say, though I was inspired a tiny bit by the Queen Mary (located out in Long Beach, CA) and a lot inspired by the Olympic / Titanic / Britannic sister-ships that were sadly scrapped / sunk by iceberg / mined in WW1. Here we see the RMS Allemann at sail at night in the mid-Atlantic sometime in the late 1920's. (this LDD picture was edited to give it a night-time feel. If only the portholes glowed!) The font of the ship (also called the "bow".) features three printed 1 x 6 tiles should spell out the name ALLEMANN on the left and right sides, and along with the stern. The light gray "hatches" at the fore and aft sections of the ship are for loading cargo into the various holds. Statistics: Ship Name: RMS Allemann Ship Type: "Gigantic" Class passenger Liner Owner: Red Star Line Ship Built: 1919 – 1921 Capacity: 400 Crew, 270 First class, 630 Second class, 1,000 Third class Lifeboats: 20 regular boats / 4 collapsible boats with 80 people per boat each (1,920 people total capacity) Builder: Strong & Steele Shipbuilders of London Propulsion: 24 Boilers, 2 turbines, 4 steel propellers Top Speed: 30 Knots Fuel: Diesel (originally Oil) The rear of the ship. (also called the "stern".) The raised portion of the deck is for the docking bridge when the ship is backing into port. The ship features a modular approach to it's construction, allowing for separation of bow and stern for storage ease... and in case I want to build a wrecked version in the future, I just disconnect the four Technic pins to remove the desired section from the rest of the vessel. Also, I thought about Gateway LUG holiday displays, which usually include light-up models in some form, usually modular buildings. These potential lights are now addable via the open bottom of the ship for a neat effect through the portholes. The pennant flag of the Red Star Line as originally used on the RMS Allemann. The RMS Allemann was first proposed in 1914, but World War One prevented it's construction by Strong & Steele Shipbuilders to start until 1919. The ship was modified from it's original proposed engine design to burn oil, and was completed in February 1921. The ship could hold 1,900 people total, with 400 being Crew, with 270 being First class, 630 in Second class, and 1,000 being the steerage, or Third class. The ship sailed it's maiden voyage in July 1921 from Southampton to New York City. The ship was English-owned, and as such, was immune to the new American anti-alcohol laws of Prohibition. The ship took off-peak season sailings (informally known as Liquor Cruises) around the Atlantic, returning to the American port of origin within a couple days. The ship managed to hold a steady service record, and remained relatively full-up until the Great Depression really took hold in 1931. The ship's owners, the Red Star Line, managed to stay financially afloat long enough to get the ship through the worst of the Depression, until the ship was requested by the English Navy as a troop ship in late 1939 for use in World War Two. The Allemann's fancy woodwork was put in storage and the ship was turned into a troop ship relatively quickly. The ship was strafed several times by enemy aircraft during the war, and narrowly missed being torpedoed in 1943, but it survived the war not too much worse for wear. When it was handed back over to Red Star Line, it was given a complete overhaul mechanically and electrically. The whole ship was rewired, and the oil burning engines converted to diesel. The Acadia's woodwork was painstakingly restored to it's original grandeur, and she was ready for for sailing by 1948, almost a year after being handed back to it's original owners. In the early '50's the ship began sailing luxury cruises to the Mediterranean from England and the United States, in addition to it's usual scheduled Atlantic crossings, and had it's third class re-designated as Tourist class. This was because the decline of the Atlantic immigrant traffic pattern was nearly complete. The ship began showing it's age by the late 1960's, when it's original glass dome began to leak badly. A handful of cracks in the reinforced glass caused the ship to be dry-docked, but before it could be fixed the huge dome collapsed in on itself, causing the grand staircase to be heavily damaged. Luckily, the accident happened in the middle of the night, and no one was on board at the time to get hurt by all that broken glass. The ships' dome was replaced, but only because the ship's owners knew of the ship's heritage and couldn't bear to see the old girl scrapped. (Not to mention it would have cost more to scrap the ship than fix the dome) By 1975, she was last four-stack ship in existence, and the owners were planning the grand lady's 55th Birthday for the next year. The Allemann celebrated July 1st, 1976 as her fifty-fifth birthday, and as part of the celebrations she was given to a preservation group dedicated to keeping the ship sailing as an "ambassador of history", as a peek into the way things were and how the men and women visiting and working on the Allemann went about their lives through each period of this ships stoic history. Many former passengers and crew detailed their experiences on the ship in writing or on film for the beginning of what later became known as The Allemann Living History Museum. Today, the ship features a feature-length film that chronicles the story of the ship and it's many passengers and crew through out the ships commercial and wartime lives. The film is shown in the Second Class movie theater, built into the ship in 1947 after World War Two, flowing seamlessly into the 1920's flavor of the ship. The ship still sails, making stops in New York and London (substituted for Southampton) at least twice a year. NOTES: The bow is either a bit too long or the stern too short, but I can't seem to fix that correctly to be "in scale". In fact, it's pretty much assured there is NO scale used with this ship, as I just built what looked good to me. The model will have to be bought sometime in Autumn of this year, as even though it has most of the parts from the 2011 ship inside it, (these have been removed the from the parts list to save money) it still will cost almost (US) $200 to purchase the remaining needed parts to have it done by the Christmas-time show later this year. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions, or complaints on this ship?
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I'm curious - What stuff do you use in/for MOC-ing besides Lego? I feel it's a bit like fishing - you can do with just the bare minimum - a stick, a string and a bait, but a folding chair, a good fishing rod and a beer makes it a lot better as an experience. So, let's summarize a MOC builder's starter toolkit :) My toolkit for MOCs is the following: 0. Lego pieces - no way of skipping those 0. Organizers or big plastic trays to have the parts accessible and visible Scale model car/truck/tank/thing for referencing and proportions - I've used a VW camper van 1/32 toy for real-life measuring - saved me a lot of time. /optional/ Bunch of google images and youtube videos of the MOC's topic - to get a feel of the proportions and/or mechanisms inside. For C-models - always open tab with the set's inventory - helps fight over-committing pieces in non-essential places. PDF instructions of other MOCs or official Lego models if I need to borrow a mechanism or technique idea. Sariel's toolkit - http://tools.sariel.pl/ - very good tools, honestly. The scale tool and the thumbnail generator do wonders. I'm not that advanced in Technic building to use the gears tool yet. LDD/ Stud.io / LDcad / Mecabricks - if/when you go digital / or create instructions later/ Empty table, two A2 posters converted to a white backdrop, a tripod and my phone / cheap camera / for some glory shots to be shared later. 4x the time I think it should take... /Then add 2x time again for all the glory shots/videos of the mechanisms/* *Yes, time is a tool too ;) Environmentally - what helps you MOC? Separate desk? Wall of organizers? Any kind of music that helps you work better? Or podcasts? I've made my best MOCs during the night listening to Joe Rogan's podcasts. I don't feel sleepy if a podcast is running. Living on a boulevard makes day moc-ing a bit harder - night time's quietness makes me work better. I build on my work desk at home - a wireless keyboard does wonders for your space :) What software do you use? For digital building PDF editting Image editting Video editting For me it's Stud.io for digital building and PDF generation. The flex tool is terrible, but the other stuff in it has a flow. I've tried LDcad but I'm lost there. LDD is clunky too, maybe they need more time to get the results I want. Mecabricks is enigma to me - I mainly use it on work pcs as a 3D model viewer. For images and video - the embedded Photos app + Paint 3D /Windows 10/ are sufficient. You can crop and adjust lighting. Not great, not terrible. The video editor is very basic but to the point. Paint 3D is actually quite capable while still being not very rich in functionality. You can copy paste the below text for your entries in this topic if you wish :) Thank you for your time -
Here's a new project I'm working on. It is a model of the JCB Fastrac Two. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/features/christmas-road-test-worlds-fastest-tractor A modified JCB Fastrac tractor, the JCB Fastrac Two is the fastest tractor in the world, and can reach 150mph. My model will feature drive, steering, an inline-6 fake engine, and a working steering wheel. The model uses the Control+ system and features 2 C+ L motors for drive and a large angular motor (from the 42114 set) for steering. So far, I have done some initial modeling in Stud.io. I've modeled the drivetrain and the front axle, and the C+ hub sits between them near the bottom for easy battery access. Photos:
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Hello, it´s OcTRAINber-Time.... WIP story and progress of "my" Köf II: I wanted to build a Köf for a long time. Yes, I know, it's not a special locomotive and has been done well in Lego. But not by me. From the beginning, it was clear to me: a locomotive must be able to drive alone, not a freight car with an engine behind it as a drive! This is not really feasible for a Köf in scale 1:41 with pure Lego means. 9V motor would be a solution, but since I am not a 9V driver, have 0 track material for it, the 9V solution is out for me. All known conversions with PF/PF Lego Technic are too big for me and would not fit to scale next to my other models. About a week ago came the announcement for the competition OcTRAINber 2021: small shunting locomotives or maintenance cars etc. were the topic. I combine: I have an unused Circuit Cube engine lying in front of me, I want to build a Köf and there is just a suitable Wettberb. Ok, then I'll build the Köf now and put other topics on the back burner for now. Ok, let's go.... at the beginning is the research. The Köf II is really very small. Link to a sketch, I come there in my scale to about 16 studs length without buffers / coupler Circuit Cube + motor is small, but somehow the Köf II is even smaller. So I thought about the placement of the motor. The first try went wrong. The motor builds up too deep at the bottom and grinds on the top of the rail. This does not work with switches and level crossings. Ok, so set the motor higher and roughly mark out the outer edges. The disadvantage of this motor position are the many necessary gears (friction losses), the advantage is, I can drive both axes. You can also see nicely how small the Köf is to become. One day later: I didn't like the many gears and I also had a crazy idea for the front. It needs space and therefore the engine has to give way: Motor is now 90° tilted. I have fewer gears in use and can still drive both axles. Nice. But the installation there is also difficult and I need MORE space on top for pretty design.... So radically new approach thought out. Motor comes down again, but turned to the side, so that it has 1/2 plate distance to the top of the rail. Advantage: one gear less (even less is not possible^^), both axles can be driven, lots of space on the top. Disadvantage: does it hold? The whole thing is also not so nice from a constructional point of view, because I have to leave the grid inside for the motor, too. The cabin sits all the time also already 1/2 plate in the grid shifted (in height), so that everything becomes very interesting. This was the moment when I also had to test the whole thing with real stones: yes, it works and the thing drives: Now I have a LOT of ;-) Space and can be filled with stupid ideas. But that's another story.... Thomas
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My contribution for this years Octrainber "Critters" is Vollert Robot DER 100 "Leonhard Weiss", a tiny little modern shunter engine I saw the other day in real live traveling from Stuttgart to Nürnberg in Germany. A quick google search brought me to www.eisenbahndienstfahrzeuge.de with some pictures and additional information about this a bit strange looking "thing" on rails. The shape looks a bit odd but it might be a challenge for a LEGO model, especially the dark grey triangle next to the front windows. But yes, not another KÖF, but something modern. And Circuitcubes Bluetooth controlled mini motors are waiting here to be used in a train MOC. The prototype was build by the German company Vollert. Vollert does offer a few shunting robots from very tiny to mid sized locomotives. The Robot DER 100 has a total length of 5,45 m and a total weight of approx. 44 tons. It has a pulling capacity of 2,400 tons. This robot is powered either electric (cable or battery) or diesel-electric. As option it can operate in explosive atmosphere environments, e.g. chemical plants. The version I saw is operated by the German construction and building company Leonhard Weiss which is well known in railway construction. The LEGO MOC also will be powered by battery electric but I will not pull 2,400 tons of rolling stock ;-) But it will (hopefully) offer enough space for at least 2 Curcuitcube mini motors to power the drive and as special function a decoupling unit. If this works, I will get a remote controlle shunter with a high play value. Attaching a small linear actuator directly to the motor seems to work. Now I need to squeeze in everything in the dark grey/yellow body of the Vollert Robot shunter. A few years ago I already integrated a decoupling unit powered with PF in a 12 Volt MOC engine. So I already have some knowledge to integrate LEGO set 7862 in a locomotive. Stay tuned for the further development of my LEGO version of the Vollert Robot DER 100 ...
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This ship was heavily inspired by set 4195 (Queen Anne's Revenge) for the ship itself and set 31109 for the brick-built sails + pirate flag. The vessel is named the "Hell Bent", and is crewed by sailors-turned-demons, led by Captain Victor "Jawbone" Blucher. It will be built after the "Silver Crab" pirate ship is done. The vessel has eight cannons ready to fire at a moments notice. The rear of the ship has the nameplate on the stern, right below the custom brick-built pirate flag. The model has a removable steering area for access to the captain's quarters, which has a desk and chair with two wall lanterns nearby. Captain Victor (the figure on the right side) lost his lower jaw after a pistol shot at a vision of The Man Upstairs rebounded unto him, and was turned into a demon (along with his crew) by said entity for his crime against nature. He also gained an painful iron jawbone as an additional punishment, and so he could communicate with his crew verbally. The Hell Bent and it's crew have roamed the 7 seas for about 28 years now, only allowed to enter a port once every seven years for a week. Just like the legendary storm-tossed Flying Dutchman and it's infernal crew, this ship is a bad omen at sea for merchants, but strangely is considered a good one for pirates, since it was a pirate ship to begin with. Usually, if the ship is sighted by a merchant ship, the crewmate who saw it will then die and join the demon-crew's ranks, but for pirates, it is allowed to get closer to exchange news of the world via bags of mail / news clippings / etc. sent over in waterproofed bags. (In reality, I'm going to use Nexo Knights lava soldiers' heads and torsos for the crew and captain.) If you have any thoughts, questions, complaints, suggestions, or comments, please post them below!
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Hi all, I just stated a new project, and I decided to create a WIP topic for it so I can show my building process on it. It is for now a side project, I started it early since I got stuck a bit on my main project (which can be found here for those interested), so progress probably won't be quick at first. So about the car. It is going to be a 1:10 scale racecar. I'm not aiming for a certain car, I want to design my own. This gives me a lot of freedom in functions and features I want to add. I looked at the Greek mythology to find a name, and settled on Orion. I am going for a different design style than my previous builds. In those builds I used a lot of panels and liftarms to close as many gaps as possible, for this one I want to go for a more 'technic' look. I also have a list of functions/ features I (might) want to add: Definitely want to add these: AWD (3 diffs) Sequential gearbox + engine (a simple 4 speed one to leave room for other functions) Spring-loaded scissor or butterfly doors Advanced suspension set-up & geometry Openable engine bay (probably with a lever in the car) DRS (or a similar system) Rigid monocoque And might add these: Modular bodywork Modular chassis Active aero (e.g. panels which move when steering) If you have other features you'd like me to (try to) add, please let me know. So far I have built the axles. The rear axle is pretty much done, the front axle needs a few refinements, but is mostly finished by now. Rear axle: Orion - Rear axle 1 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Functions/ features: Double wishbone Stiff, short travel pushrod suspension with a limiter Heave spring Anti-roll bar Differential Front axle: Orion - Front axle 1 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Functions/ features: Double wishbone Stiff suspension (springs are attached with levers) Heave spring Anti-roll bar Differential Positive caster angle Kingpin inclination Ackermann steering geometry At first I also added a negative camber angle, but it was a bit too exaggerated and lead to some problems, so I decided to not add it. This is it for now, hope you like it :D -
Hey all, I've been lurking in the forums for a month or so after i saw a lego big boy some time ago by morningstrummer, Ive long wanted to get back into a model railroad hobby but never could very much due to living conditions or expense and now i find my self at an odd crossroads of sorts. The skinny is I've since made a WIP MOC of the Southern Pacific AC-9 based on morningstrummer's big boy in Stud.IO ( I have a thing for articulated locomotives ) but find myself after having just nearly finished the whole loco and its tender thinking of going with an O Scale set instead as both layouts, add-ons, rolling stock, etc. etc. will end up costing me the same but both lack things i enjoy of both hobbies. One is building with lego's, stepping back and seeing the creation ( move and make sound even! ) then two being the wider availability and setup of O Scale and to stretch even HO for that matter. At this point i just really don't know what direction i should take the dive, as i wont be able to do both by a monetary standpoint, and y'all seem to have the wealth of information. Oh and here is my wip, Spoilered for convenience.
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As simple as it sounds, what did you build today? You can be as vague or specific as you like. This is just for fun. Did you spend the evening creating, tearing down, and recreating a small part in your MOC? (i.e. archway, tree, etc) Did you build the Modular/ UCS/ desirable set that you finally acquired but had not yet built? Did you spend the day just sorting bricks? Are you planning/designing/drawing your next build? Creating a new set in Lego Digital Designer or stud.io? ========================================================================================= To start it off: I worked on 71741 Ninjago City Gardens, for the 5th evening and finished the 2nd (of 3) instruction book.
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Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
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Hey guys, here is a long-anticipated project of mine that I'm finally starting. It is a model of NJ Transit's 2020 New Flyer XD60 articulated bus. My model will be fully motorized, with remote-controlled drive, steering, and opening doors. It'll be either controlled by the PF IR system or by SBrick. The model will be propelled by a PF XL motor, which is already in place. The power source is a PF 8878 battery sitting in the very rear of the chassis. So far I have the rear portion of the chassis built - just missing most of the seats. I've already been building the model digitally on Stud.io for about a month, mostly working on the chassis, so this part should be done relatively soon. However, this is not taking into consideration any potential issues that may arise as I build the chassis in real life. I also have prototypes for the doors' and bellows' mechanisms ready (not pictured), and they seem to work pretty well. So overall, it'll just be a matter of putting these mechanisms together into a coherent chassis. Aesthetics wise, my model will mostly be about the outside appearance, which means I'll focus much more on the bodywork than the interior details-wise. However, the seating layout will still be identical to the original bus, with a total of 59 seats. This is definitely a project I'm really looking forward to. It'll be the first time I model a particular real-life vehicle. I'm a huge fan of NJ Transit's buses and buses in general, and these artics IMO are some of the best buses they've ordered in recent years. And because I'm doing a digital build while simultaneously building in real life, I plan on publishing instructions for this MOC when it's finished. Photo:
