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Found 244 results

  1. Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): https://www.dupuis.com/seriebd/zombillenium/3204 Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...
  2. Greetings, shipwrights. Whether a novice, an apprentice, a master, or a veteran shipwright, following the process of others, sharing your own, and giving and receiving feedback can help everyone improve. What's the point? This is just a place for all of us liberally to post WIP's for feedbacks, tips, suggestions, and questions, without otherwise littering the BoBS forum with WIP's. You can post just one step in the process, or several over a period. It's all up to you. So I am working on a vessel/ship - what do I do? Post one or more pictures, questions, ship-plans, descriptions, etc. here, and hopefully someone will step in with some wonderful advice. At least, I expect to do so. I know NOTHING about ships - can I comment, and how do I do? Everyone with something constructive to say can comment. No need to be a scholar in historic vessels, medieval carpentry or sail making. Sometimes it might just be aesthetics, a crazy idea, a suggestion for a technique, use of a specific brick, or whatever you can think of. Just keep it nice and constructive. In return, builders posting here will pwomise not to take offense! I'd suggest tagging the builder you are commenting on. But I am not an expert - the arrogant elite will laugh at my puny attempts at shipbuilding! First of all, the arrogant elite was not invited. In fact, they have been given specific instructions to go back to their fancy little elitist coffee houses to talk about how brilliant they are. Secondly, regarding puny attempts, take a look at my first attempt at a ship just two and a half years ago... Well, you really don't have to look. Move along... Nothing to see here... The rather obvious point being, we all start somewhere, and no matter where you start, or how steep your learning curve is. The only requirement is that you want to share your process, learn from others, share your ideas, and/or improve. Soooo, is this something official? What will I gain from participating? EGS bonuses? HAH! This is merely me gone rogue - and I may hang from my toes for it! No official bonuses here. However, I'd like to see a bit more focus on the process and techniques of building here, and I think ships is an interesting place to start. This is, however, quite likely to be replaced, superseded, or added to by something official at some point in the future. Who manages this and keeps the record? Manages? Keeps records? Bwahahaha - forget it! Just post your WIP's and comments. Don't overthink it! ________________________________________________________________________ Kick off! Oooohkay, here we go: I have been working on a 4th rate, circa 50 guns on two decks. I present to you: The HMS Endeavour. Started here: Went here: And have ended here: She is supposed to be the first in a series of 4th rates designed for colonial waters. A 4th rate is a small ship of the line between 46 and 60 guns, just above frigate size. This one is (IC) specifically designed to serve as flagship for colonial squadrons, sailing in consort with frigates and sloops. Looking forward to hearing your comments! And to see your WIP's!
  3. Hello, and Welcome to my WIP "Midi" Scale Lego Modular City. What is "Midi" Scale you may ask? Well, you can read all about it HERE. Midiscale Modulars Pub, Toy Store, & Apartment Midiscale Cars So far... Midiscale Trains BNSF 2099 Diesel Locomotive BR Class 08 Diesel Shunter Midiscale Train Cars Small Oil Tanker Midiscale Prefabricated Parts Modular Bases
  4. The initial idea was to create a tank with the most helpful additions for post-apocalyptic, but then I realised that's not that mad max sooo; "Now the gun shoots spears instead of traditional tank rounds (this is also innkeeping with the ban on modifying parts), which are far easier to use independently of the industrial arms complex and fit the blades over guns aesthetic of mad max. There is a giant double wide dozer/shovel hybrid on the front both for creating fortifications and destroying them. On the back of the turret is a crane, while also being arguably the most important piece of machinery in construction it also allows for display of those you deem unworthy of a place in your convoy. The tanks itself is suspended on 5 sets of double wishbones pilfered from discarded medium duty trucks, while the general shape of modelled after tanks from throughout history on the whim of the history crazed lunatic that jerry-rigged the thing together when the world first fell apart." Back to the Lego; the supergun is the centrepiece and is one of the few shell ejecting guns built. The gun uses the newer spring shooters (roughly 1x4 brick sized) currently in a 6 shot magazine and will recoil the barrel, trigger the launcher, open the breach and the eject the round with one smooth motion. The gun barrel moves forward on the motor loading a round then suddenly reciprocates back on a spring performing all the other operations in a split second making it look like a real gun firing (I even made the shell cartwheel when ejected ;)). As everything is directly controlled by the barrel/recoil there is only need for one spring and as this spring does not have to contain the energy to launch the spear the spring can be relatively light allowing for multiple shots per second (the shells stream out like we all love). I will post picks and a vid once the gun is mounted in the turret, just had to make this post as I went from nothing to my best ever gun and tank chassis in less than a day.
  5. Sarles

    WIP - Faro Table

    So my latest MOC idea is a playable Faro table and various accessories. For this I plan on using the Pirate Lego playing cards to keep it all Lego. There are a few things I need to figure out as you can see that on the board there are permanently affixed cards and I have come up with a way to get the cards set on the table. I'm starting with this card holder but I'm concerned the Door Rail plates will have connection issues when a card is slid under the edges and siting on the tile. Has anyone tried to do anything similar?
  6. General MOC-Discussion Ahoy! Ever felt like there's not enough general talk going on here about what matters most in these waters - MOCs? Ever got frustrated over a certain issue with a WIP that you could need help with? Ever thought about posting a WIP but didn't think it would deserve its own thread? Ever wanted to announce a huge, mind boggling, or simply your next project and ask your fellow EB members what they think about that idea? Or have you ever just felt the urge to tease everyone with a blurred picture of your creation or some facts about it before releasing it for good? Well, hesitate no further, this is the place for you! Use this thread as a vessel for all the otherwise unmentioned MOC related talk, use it to discuss sail sizes and capstan designs, ask for ideas, help others with their MOC issues and tease your fellow mateys... with pics of your creations, of course
  7. Hello there! I would like to show you a (slow and painful) progress on my take on mini mining excavator. Yeah, the Liebherr 9800 R kind. I kinda like the model, the 42100 and Markus is my favorite Technic creator but ... Well, the model is just to big and too simple and I can see some lazy short cuts (having three motors in an arm). And I haven't even mentioned the price, which is hilarious. Sorry about the rant. So you can imagine my joy when I saw cyberdyne systems' Mini Replica. He clearly showed what can be done in small form factor. However I was wondering if fully motorized version is also possible. Here starts my story. I've decided to build roughly 1/2 scale model. Yeah, I can be lazy to and dividing by 2 seems easy enough. At the moment I am not into esthetics, it's more about function, so please forgive me some crazy decision. Let me show you what have I done so far: I've started with the undercarriage. Simple, two tracks and turntable at the top. Well, the problem is motorization and even the smallest gearing needs 2-3 studs. The results is this: I am trying to use as little space for gearing as possible. It's not elegant by far: Motors are hidden in the back: At this stage, the battery (I am planing on using 2x BuWizz) will be located in the upper portion and cables are going through the center. Is not optimal solution, but solution through the turntable with mechanical connection needs even more space in the body. Next part was the bucket. I've also choosen 1/4 cylinder, however I've found interesting idea for bucket teeth. I think it works just fine: The bucket is fully operational. Next thing was building an arm. I was just trying to mimic the 42100 in 50% scale. However transfer of power at such scale is problematic: Here is the whole arm: And this is where I got stuck. I need to fix side M motors, which at the moment are just lying around. BuWizz units will be located at right corners. I am using studded technique just to approximate size. Another problems are universal joint's. They tend to work at angles 0-45°, however the arm swings for 90°. Maybe I should attach motors at an angle. Or do some gear magic. Regarding gear magic - I have to much of them already. I guess the biggest future problem is how to fit in motors and subcarriage. Feel free to comment.
  8. Been working on this larger Castle Wip for over a month. Please leave any suggestions/ feedback. I have a lot of design work to do and intend on adding a village with medieval buildings/ woods with custom forestmens hideout... If Interested Vote on my LEGO Ideas Projects Below: Medieval Blacksmith Shop: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/fe760b8b-4d27-4ab9-9373-353661f4a9f8 Brazilian Jiu Jitsu & MMA Academy: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/8b20163f-f931-4096-a163-5c7108074963 Follow Me Below For More Photos: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego.scape.sculpture/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/fishingtwister/ Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/127491317@N08/ by Ben Pitchford, on Flickr LEGO Castle WIP by Ben Pitchford, on Flickr Watch below⤵️
  9. Hey guys, here's a new project I started recently. It is a model of the Volvo EC350E excavator, featuring pneumatics and SBrick control. As of right now I have the superstructure completed. All electronics for the model are contained within here. At the center of the superstructure is a 8043-style gearbox that switches the 3 L motors between left track, right track, and superstructure rotation, respectively, and boom valve, jib valve, and bucket valve, respectively. A M motor powers the gearbox shifting and the pneumatic pump simultaneously. This is possible thanks to a clutch gear on the gearbox shifting mechanism, allowing the motor to drive the pump even when shifting is complete. This will be my last MOC before I go off to college. I move in next Thursday, so I'll try to get at least most of it done before I leave. I won't be building as much anymore with college starting - maybe a MOC or two over breaks. However, if I don't get this MOC done before I leave I'll try to finish it in small increments in the weekends I come home. Photos:
  10. After working this site out a bit better I have decide to give this whole post a redo , so here goes as said outright in the title the model will be to 1:8 scale so that's about 71.5 studs long with a 41.5 studs wheelbase 31 studs wide ( in reality it is more like 30.5 studs but 31 studs prevents a whole bunch of complications ) and 19 studs high . My creation will be based on this picture except the interior which will be tan the car in all its holiness :cry_happy: the interior - Unfortunately I could not find any perfect images :sceptic: ------------------------------------------------------------ The model will most likely way a LOT !! so it will be powered by two RC Buggy Motors driven by a Rechargeable Lipo battery box with an accelerator system { ran by a M Motor } very similar to that of the system used by Sheepo used in his Porsche 911 (997) Turbo Cabriolet PDK link here ---> http://www.sheepo.es...let-pdk_04.html This system has many purposes but for me there is 2 big big reasons 1- using this system allows you to get full power out of the RC Buggy motors 2- It also gives you the realism of a progressive accelerator All in all the creation has 10 motors ------------------------------------------------------------- 2 RC buggy Motors for drive 1 M Motor for the "Progressive accelerator" 1 Servo Motor for steering + working steering wheel and Indicators 1 L Motor for the Disc Brakes in all 4 wheels + working Brake pedal and brake light 1 servo motor for the 7+R sequential gearbox 1 L motor for Race Mode { which lowers the suspension and allows the fake V8 engine to rev higher , and no doubt more things to come like more efficient brakes and such } And lastly 1 M Motor to turn all the lights on ------------------------------------------------------------- The Ferrari will have an ignition system that turns on the the main PF battery box ( with 1 set of automatic LEDs for interior lighting and the 3 receivers and 5 PF switches ) ------------------------------------------------------------ the Ferrari will have 18 LEDs in all -10 LifeLites Leds which are turned on through the use of the the lights RC function as well as 2 sets of Lego LEDs in the taillights and side lights at the front -3 sets of Lego LEDs for the indicators ( some going to the dashboard ) -2 sets for the brake lights also with some going to the dash - and of course the 1 set of LEDs that come on with the battery's and the 1 set that come on with the LifeLites And as a bonus when you turn the ignition pressure is put on 3 Lego Light Bricks that light up the dash and center console -------------------------------------------------------- The model then has 2 more L motors both going to separate 4 way gearboxes both providing 4 other functions { the lever for both are hidden in the dashboard through the means of pulleys and links they should smoothly change the gearboxes The first box provides 4 seat functions -Forwards and backwards on both sides - and the back of the seat moves forwards and back wards on both sides { also as a manual function I want to be able to move the bottom of the seats up and down ever so slightly }\ ----------------------------------------------------- the seats ---------------------------------------------------- The other Gear-box picks between 4 other manual functions 1- windscreen wipers 2- adjustable spoiler 3- pneumatic pump 4- now this is an interesting one I call it disguise the receivers I want to be able to lift and lower the receiver so that when I want drive it around I can seamlessly where as when I wanna display it I can stow the receivers away its kinda like creating the best of both worlds ---------------------------------------------------- Pneumatics I want the pump to provide air to 3 switches all hidden in the glove-box 1- opening the engine cover 2- opening the bonnet 3- an auxiliary output -------------------------------------------------- and I also want 2 gears in the glove-box to adjust the position of the pedals and the wheel and a gear somewhere to lock and unlock the the main battery's and lastly a clever system that flicks on some LEDs ( Lego ones ) when you open the the doors , which by the way have locks and the correct opening geometry :classic: ----------------------------------------------- And now the bit that is most important to me - The looks I want this to look absolutely perfect including a highly detailed engine interior and boot space ( which should be of a decent size ) I know it all sounds a bit much but with a bit of help from the EuroBricks community and fat wallet I will get there in the end and I will update this post as often as possible :classic: The original Car configuration ------------------> http://car-configura...|16b8fe10|1f1e3
  11. Hi guys, Long time no post, I started new project, my own 42069 model C I think I will build a Bulldozer, after that I find on internet anything picture about dozer can inspire me. Wow, - John Deere 764HSD High Speed Dozer, very fit with set 42069 except color (purple is rare in real) And this is result after a day Anyone know this dozer use V engine or I engine, I only know it has 6 cylinders ?
  12. Tataienstein

    Imperial Class Corvette WIP

    Hello evryone, i'm new and i decided to start posting my new project. I am working on a reworked version of an Imperial Class Corvette like the Battlefront Corvus. I'm trying to mix imperial and rebel version. I looked another actually exsisting corvus moc and i am going to aim it to be bigger (7k+ bricks!) Actually working on top panels and hull plus trying to sort the "legs" to make it more stable. Also need to fix plates here and there to make it more stable! I hope you like ita and sorry for the quality of the pictures!
  13. Hi Guys! I'm Bricksfeeder. I want to share with you my big project I began at the beginning of 2019 : The Arkham Asylum! I will explain you more in detail the concept, my whole project and the WIP on this MOC in video (Youtube, Instagram) and Post. Let me know if you have some preference for this content or if you would like to get building instructions of this project or parts of this project. If you have advice to improve my MOCs or the content of my YouTube Channel, tell me in comment! :) I hope you enjoy this project. Don't forget to follow, like and subscribe! :) It’s not a big update but all the vehicles are done except the train. For the Extra features, I make few things which is already available : - Mr. Freeze Armor - 70's Ambulance - My own Batmobile (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-26146/BricksFeeder/brickfeeders-batmobile/#comments) - Asylum Stretcher (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-24834/BricksFeeder/asylum-stretcher/#comments) - Batdrone (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-24835/BricksFeeder/batdrone/#comments) - Joker's Lowrider (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-24837/BricksFeeder/jokers-lowrider-7studs-wide-car/#comments) - GCPD Car (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-24861/BricksFeeder/gcpd-car-police-car-7studs-wide-car/#comments) - Arkham Armored Truck (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-24850/BricksFeeder/armored-truck/#comments) - Nightmare Scarecrow (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-30910/BricksFeeder/nightmare-scarecrow-inspired-by-the-arkham-asylum-game/#comments) For the moment, I didn't make a lot of progress on the Arkham Asylum (I was busy) but I have new few ideas... Stay tuned! ;)
  14. snowvictim

    [MOC] St. Alexander's Church

    Greetings! I have recently took upon myself the task of recreating one of my favourite buildings lost to the ravages of war: St. Alexander's Church in Warsaw, Poland. It's quite an ambitious project (over 20,000 bricks) that I intend to finish by October. Background information: The church was completed in 1825 and was built in the neoclassical style. In the 1890s, the Russians, who occupied Poland, decided to remodel the building architecturally and expand it considerably. The temple was practically intact following the German invasion of Poland in 1939, and was almost completely razed to the ground as part of the planned destruction of Warsaw in late 1944 (only one of the bell towers survived). After the war, the church was rebuilt, however in its original form, not the one after the 1890 alteration (probably due to a combination of insufficient funding and the opposition to the Church by the new communist regime). My aim was to rebuild the church as it stood between 1890 and 1944. Notes on the build: Dimensions: the building itself measures 132cm x 76cm x 54cm (the build is situated on a 2x4 grid of 48x48 baseplates) Many people may be annoyed by this, but I decided not to build the interior for two reasons; one is practical, the other is technical. As for practicality, I came up with an idea to insert some LED lighting into the church so that it can be illuminated, which should combine beautifully with the trans-coloured bricks that make up the stained glass windows. Inserting a power source, wiring, lights, controlled, etc. may have been problematic with a completed interior. Regarding technicality, I conducted a lot of photographic research before designing the model in Studio. While pictures of the exterior are not difficult to come by (owing to the fact that the church was one of the architectural crown jewels of pre-war Warsaw), I had only found one of the interior, and the quality of it was insufficient to provide an appropriate representation of the interior. Although written accounts of the interior do exist, I wanted to stay true to the original. Granted, one cannot replicate everything in Lego (especially me, a mediocre builder at best), but I didn't want my imagination to taint the build. Photos of the actual church: (The church after being destroyed. Notice the one surviving bell tower. The bricks you can see in the foreground came from the church and were used to build other buildings for the returning population following their expulsion after the failure of the Warsaw Uprising). Renders: Note: the renders aren't complete, primarily because of technical limitations. I'm running an Intel i7 with a GTX 1080 and even that setup struggles sometimes. Also, the angles of the build make working in Studio annoying at times. Some elements that I wanted to put Studio considers as colliding with others (particularly when it comes to the dome), so I've decided to just do them in real life instead. These include the top of the dome, the roofing adjacent to the dome base, the statues on the roof, and some minor details here and there. The greatest challenge will be the walls of the dome; as you can see they're empty, and I may have to resort to non-Lego means. Building: More to follow! Most of the workpace is dictated by how fast the BrickLink orders arrive at my place.
  15. This is a 1:8.3 scale Technic MOC car I am making powered by EV3. Things have been going well until I ran into some space issues with some Large Motors. I wanted them to be vertical, but they were too big, so I'm trying ways to get more space so the motors won't be very visible when I build the exterior. In the right picture, I positioned the motors at an angle to save space, however it may make the rear too long. The maximum room I have (according to blueprints) for the motors is 2.5 inches away from the rear wheels, so I need to save a lot of space or I have to expand the rear. All in all, I have to position the motors where they are not too high or not too far from the rear wheels. I'd thought I post this issue I have because I wonder if there is any other better way to do this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.
  16. So I have (slowly) begun working on a castle, the Castle of Syndrifel. I started on the great hall and kitchen, because let's be honest, even minifigures get hungry. After building the great hall, I began to realize just how big this thing will be. I'm planning on building it in modular secutions due to the real estate it will take up. Do the colors look ok? Too much dark grey? Etc. The first two photos are the great hall and kitchen, sans furniture for the most part. A minifigure is there for scale. The white arch there is also just a place holder, as are the transparent bricks behind the royal table. Some furniture I've been working on. The far left might be counters, but I'm really not fans. The middle tan and black will probably be shelves and tables in the kitchen. Far right are 99% sure to be benches. Should I start building from the ground up? Right now I have ane idea of the walls. Ignore the white bricks, they're place holders, as are the full on dark gray. I'm thinking 12x12 for the towers, aside from the main gaates which might be 12x14 or something to give a bit more room. The center 4x4 will be filled in as well. I have six of those built, which are the amount of towers I plan on building.
  17. Finished MOC Do you remember my Reform Metrac H7X ? Reform also produces the Muli: As the project of my Citröen DS doesn’t really progresses, I do this project in WIP, to compensate. ^^ The functions will be close to the Metrac ones: 4WD with a 4 cylinders fake engine Steering with 3 modes Front and rear PTOs And I add: A pneumatic pump to add pneumatic tools Central joint (it’s only the front axle on the Metrac) Openable cab with a lever and a pump actionning a pneumatic cylinder. The best function! But this MOC will not be manual, because there is not so much room in the chassis. (I think it’s possible, but the playability will be extremely bad) So it will be remote controlled, using the BuWizz. So: Driving by 1 XL by axle Steering: 1 servo by axle. To have the 3 steering modes: a M motors controls a PFs switch -> it changes the sens of rotation of the rear servo, or it stops it. The pneumatic pump is powered by a M motor That was the start: And now I’m here: On these two pictures, you can see the rear PTO. On this side, the pneumatic pump: And here is the mecanism which allows the possibility to get 3 steering modes: The chassis is very, very compact. I think you can put an elephant on it, it will not move at all. For the tools, I think I’ll make a pneumatic arm (The pneumatic cylinders of the Mercedes truck would be very helpful, but I don’t have this set) And for the front I don’t know, so if you have ideas, tell me!
  18. Hey guys, here's a MOC I've been planning to make for quite a while now: the 1972 Winnebago Brave. RV's have gained virtually no attention in the world of Lego Technic, so I'm pretty excited to see what I could accomplish in this MOC. I also plan on bringing this MOC to BrickFair Virginia this summer. I decided to do a Winnebago for this project because my friend back in Iowa has a passion for Winnebago RVs. Out of the many Winnebago RVs out there (Cheftain, Indian, etc) and model years, I settled on the Brave because her favorite model is the 1972 Brave. Despite it being an unusual subject for Technic, I nevertheless plan to include all those "traditional" Lego Technic supercar functions on this MOC, such as steering, suspension, and transmission. Currently, the chassis is about 2/3 of the way complete, with most of the mechanical features now in place. In between the seats is a fake V8 engine connected to a massive 4-speed transmission shifted using the rotary catches from the 42083 set. The transmission is shifted using the paddle to the right of the driver's seat - it uses a rubber band mechanism similar to the one on the 42083 to rotate the catches 90 degrees for each press of the paddle. The gear ratios are 2.08:1, 1.33:1, 1.25:1, and 1:1.25. Both axles will have live axle suspension, and the steering mechanism includes a working steering wheel. This MOC will have no motors, and it is in fact my first MOC without any motorized functions. To increase visibility of the mechanics, I plan on incorporating a removable body and floorplan to expose the chassis down to its bare bones. I may also include a customizable floorplan to increase playability (like the Creator Ford Mustang set with all its customizable features). I may also include some accessories to go along with the model, such as a canoe or kayak. PS - shoutout to my friend for providing me brochures of the RV. Had all the information I needed to get the building process going. Photos:
  19. Good day! Sometimes I make MOCs that don't deserve a topic, or simply have WIP concepts that I don't publish . This will serve as a place where I post my WIP creations that may end being a MOC , and small sized MOCs which are too simple to post a video or create a topic.
  20. Been wanting to try this for awhile. Not bad. :-D Real windshield on the left, dyed one on the right. Basically I boiled a cup of water, added a teaspoon of turmeric, and dropped the windshield in and stirred it every now and then. I did this a couple of times, each time taking the windshield out and reheating the turmeric water until it was boiling again, and repeated the process. Afterwards I let it cool and then rinsed it off under some cold water. When you look at it with your own eyes next to a real trans-yellow windshield, the color is pretty close, but I could see adding another half (maybe whole) teaspoon of turmeric to the mixture. Right now it's a little bit on the green side. Adding more turmeric would definitely be an improvement.
  21. DarthMario

    [WIP] The Orville (Help Needed)

    I am currently trying to build The Orville, and before I got too deep into he process, I wanted to see if the engines were even possible to do in Lego while staying true to the shape of the actual ship. I have had minor success; I have the oval shape, but the part I am stuck on is how to make the outer edge higher than the inner edge. I am trying to avoid huge gaps between the angles because the ship has extremely sleek lines and that would ruin the aesthetic. Here is what I have so far in terms of a proof of concept: Reference model: here
  22. I switched this to a general LEGO Pokemon topic since I got carried away haha ============== Here we go, I edited the post with final pics. Suggestions, comments, hatemail, it's all welcome. =============== Features: •Amazing movement! •Mouth opening on command! •Excellent shaping, much fun, beautiful color! •The only pieces not available in LBG are the 4 wedges along the jaw and the 2 wedges on the tail. •The head is hollow, maybe 2 minifigs and a small cat can fit in there... LEGO Steelix by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr LEGO Steelix by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr LEGO Steelix Guts by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr LEGO Pokemon by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr
  23. Hey guys, here's a rather simple project I recently started. I wanted to build something that's highly playable and not too complex, so I decided to do a tracked vehicle of some sort. However, this one will be unique in that steering is not done by tank drive, or by traditional steering. It's by an articulation joint like a front loader. This model will have all-track drive, articulated steering, and a pneumatically tipped bed. The bed will be on the rear module, which will contain no motors. All motorization is done on the front module and the only things passing through the articulation joint/turntable are the drive axle and pneumatic hoses. Propulsion is done by a single L motor above the front differential, steering is done by a M motor that controls 2 linkages going in opposite directions with worm gears, and the pneumatics are controlled by a M motor that simultaneously drives a 6L pump and Sariel's autovalve. The mechanical elements do take up plenty of room in the front module, but once the bodywork is in place most of it should be concealed. My main purpose in building this MOC is to find an opportunity to really use dark azure Technic pieces. My Grapple Truck I6 and my current WIP Red Beryl X were both started with the intent of using dark azure pieces, but both times I was faced with a limited collection of them. I've recently ordered some extra dark azure pieces off Bricklink, and considering a cab on a model this size shouldn't really use that much pieces I think this finally be my first dark azure MOC. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  24. Hey guys, here's a project I've recently started working on. It's been a while since I built anything as I've been quite busy for the past couple months. Anyways, this will be a supercar project. My 4th supercar so far, hence the name "Supercar IV". To be honest I've run out of creative names after giving "Red Beryl GT" to my BrickFair 2018 MOC, so I'm happy to take suggestions if any of you have a better name in mind. From the photos below this may seem like a mere rebuild of my Red Beryl GT, but this MOC comes with several upgrades: A 4WD drive system A 4-speed gearbox, controlled remotely This will be my first supercar to contain such features, and if everything turns out well this could be my most mechanically advanced supercar MOC up to date. The presence of a 4WD system makes it easy to install a 4-speed gearbox, as I took advantage of the two gears of different sizes on the old differential serving as a central differential. I wished that I was able to make the shifting mechanism smaller or use a stepper mechanism for it, but a stepper mechanism is a bit too big and complex to fit in the available space and there is too much structure around the gearbox to make the shifting mechanism any smaller. Although the mechanism appears obstructive as of now, building seats and a roof over it should help conceal it. I am also planning on installing Brickstuff LEDs to this MOC, as well as potentially adding a 4th motorized functions (such as motorized doors or a motorized rear wing). If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. EDIT: I've decided to name the MOC "Red Beryl X", as it's essentially an upgraded sequel to my Red Beryl GT. Photos:
  25. Greetings! After coming out of my Dark Ages and tackling both the excellent Ultimate 8043 & 42009 (see below) designed by Jurgen Krooshoop, I was hungry for another Lego Technic challenge. But I felt rather lost at this point: without a large collection of loose Technic pieces at my beck and call, motorized MOCs which weren't heavily based on existing Lego sets would require some hefty Bricklink investments from my part. Fortunately, a fifteen-percent-off-everything anniversary sale at a local toy store with an expansive Lego section made the choice for my next project a lot simpler: they had the 42043 Arocs set that had already been calling out to my wallet since way back in oh-fifteen. They also had a certain little gizmo called an SBrick in stock, which I had heard quite a few things about. My previous builds had involved standard PF receivers and remotes, so it seemed like an interesting new challenge to incorporate this new-fangled blue-toothed thing-a-ma-jig into my already-slightly-more-challenging attempt at "RC-afying" the Mercedes. I'm already a little way into the project, but I've already made a few false starts and moronic missteps, so I figured it might be educational for others to document my frantic flailing about experiences, so that they might avoid my (myriad) mistakes. The first thing I did, of course, was to order the necessary PF components: a Servo Motor, an L-Motor, an 20cm extension cable, and a couple of PF lights. In hindsight, this already turned out to be my first mistake: I hadn't done my research properly and hadn't realized that the SBrick requires an extension cable to be hooked up to a battery box. This meant I was probably going to be one cable short, since I didn't think the cable for the L-motor used for drive would reach. While I waited for these crucial parts to be delivered, I began preliminary work on the Arocs proper. After completing most of bags 1 to 3, I had three loosely connected main sections of the truck - the cabin housing the 6-cilinder engine and the L-motor that came with the set, the gearbox with the outriggers, and the rear section with the dumping bed and the differentials. In my mind, I could already see a problem arising: there was a drivetrain going from the rear wheels all the way to the engine in the front of the truck, which would obviously make the pistons move as you move the truck along. I already guessed I would be severing this connection by remove the driveshaft with the CV joint and attaching an L-motor in the center somewhere. Which would render the engine, the drivetrain, etc. utterly useless. This was not acceptable - not in the last place because my kids had unanimously decided that seeing the pistons in my 42009 mobile crane move was officially The Coolest Thing Ever™. So I fiddled about a bit before connection these three main sections, and eventually came up with this: Might be a bit hard to see, but... Basically, I placed an additional small gear directly in-between the L-motor and the gearbox, which allows it to power the axles and gears connected to the piston engine when in use. So, it wouldn't be connected to the drive anymore, but at least there could be some motorized eye-candy when one swung back the cabin and fired up the main engine. It wasn't long before my motors and such arrived, so the first I tried to accomplish was to connect the L-motor for the drive somewhere. One nifty solution I'd found involved replacing the engine in the front and using the long drive-train to power the rear wheels -- a technique I thoroughly rejected for several reasons: It seemed inefficient, and COOLEST. THING. EVER. So I figured I'd just bolt the bloody thing directly to the rear diff, as I'd also seen in this fascinating and classically scored tutorial vid by RC-master PPUNG daddy: It didn't sit right with me to just attach the motor with two pins like that though, so I have attempted to support it a little bit better without messing up the way the rear suspension works too much. Right now, it looks something like this: Not exactly perfect, but it seems to work well enough, even when I give the suspension a bit of a work-out. Next came the steering. My first attempt was based on this extremely helpful Youtube video by yu shine: Basically, this involved just connecting the Servo directly to the standard HOG steering mechanism for the Arocs, just below the two orange lights-slash-knobs at the top which you're supposed to turn. It seemed the most simple and elegant and -- being but a simple soul -- this naturally appealed to me greatly. It also didn't require the purchase of any additional parts, and left the mechanically unique way the steering on the Arocs model works intact. At this point I was able to put together a sort of prototype for the RC driving, by dangling the SBrick from the battery box and just hooking everything up in a makeshift manner. After installing the app, setting up the official 42043S profile, and playing around with my handiwork for a bit, I discovered the following issues: The L-motor was supplying quite a bit of power, making the truck actually pretty hard to control. Of course, there was a lot of weight left to be added at this point, so I was willing to reserve judgement for the time being, but given that my kids no doubt want to play around with this thing as well it'd be nice if I could prevent them from semi-accidentally ramming a massive Lego vehicle into, well, practically everything. Not sure how I could address though, other than from the software side. Placing the Servo motor where it was, behind the battery box, didn't actually fit all that well. The battery box itself actually pushed up against the servo when inserted, bending it back by at least a stud, which also frustrated my attempts to secure it in place a bit further. The steering was a bit... inadequate. The problems regarding the steering I recalled Sariel already mentioning in were only exacerbated here. It felt imprecise and rather unresponsive, and it didn't help that there was quite a bit of play in the wheels even with the Servo hooked up, meaning they weren't necessarily centered even when it was. So in the end, I stripped the away the steering mechanism and the wheels up front until I was left with this: After that, I decided to pony up and order the parts which -- after careful visual inspection of PPung's tutorial -- I figured I'd still need to mount the servo at the bottom, between the two sets of front wheels. So, mostly a set of gear racks and gears, in addition to some beams and various connectors used for bracing. This also gave me the chance to simultaneously order an extra extension cable from the same supplier, since it was pretty clear I was going to be needing it if I wanted to have any hope of hooking up the drive motor to the SBrick up front. And now, we wait... Although, to pass the time, I busied myself with rebuilding the back of the cabin, which I had previously taken apart to place the servo motor. I didn't need all the gears used for the steering mechanism, of course, and I figured I'd be better off trying to mount the SBrick in this space instead. For the moment, I came up with the following: I did notice the two black Technic pins still sticking out back there, and peeking ahead in the manual revealed that these will be used to help brace the pneumatic crane, once the time comes to attach that beast. As far as I can tell, that should still be possible even with the SBrick where it is, but no doubt I'll have screwed up somehow. We'll find out in the next update, hopefully! (Assuming, quite optimistically, that there is actual interest in such a thing. )