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Found 1423 results

  1. Hello all, With the possible release of lego technic mercedes Zetros, I decided to rebuild my Technic unimog U400 into an unimog U4023. I could do this thanks to the recently aquired Claas Tractor Tyres and the abundant parts of the Liebherr - I find the Liebherr a fantastic set for parts - I modified the cab and I will integrate 2 control+ L motors and 1 XL control+ motor for drive. First I started with the cab, the chassis I'll do next The cab is build on the same base of the U400 cab The cab is not 100% true to the original, lack of various grilles, the front wheel arches are not integrated in the cabin, the air intake etc, but I find it a great start if i can say so myself. The cab features lockable doors Here is a foto of the cab on the original U400 unimog chassis with Claas Tyres. So the next project is to rebuild the chassis with the control+ motors and I also plan to rebuild the front bumper to match the U4023 bumper. Hope you liked it so far
  2. Lego Technic Rolls-Royce Phantom by Isaac Yaw Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-67767/Isaacyaw/rolls-royce-phantom-110-by-isaac-yaw/#details Full video: functions: -Fully independent suspension system-Adjustable height suspension-V12 engine with gearbox-6-speed manual transmission-working steering wheel and 'hand of God' steering system-full black and yellow theme interior-fully openable doors, hood, and trunk replicated from the original model-hidden 'umbrella' in the door dimensions: length- 57.5 cmwidth- 20.5 cmheight- 15.5 cm
  3. Hi! It's time to upgrade one more shelf model (the previous one was the Batmobile https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/180543-mod-motorized-batmobile-76139/&tab=comments#comment-3302360). Ferrari 42125 has a lot of free space, so I've inserted four buggy-motors and a few BuWizz receivers. The chassis is very simple, I've removed suspension, V8, driver seat and steering wheel :) And the bodywork is the same as in the original LEGO set. Here is the result: Thanks for watching :)
  4. Hello all, Just 2 small questions: 1) can you connect to the same shaft a control+ L-motor and a XL-motor, or do you need reduction gearing? 2) if yes is it usefull to do so, to get extra power on a driveshaft? Thanks
  5. With a new Pneumatic truck possibly on the horizon, I decided to give the Redux treatment to one of my favourite models.This is due to its complexity and that it was the first large model that i bought for myself that was not a Christmas or Birthday present. And judging from a recent post on the forums a lot of you like it as well. I have still to model the tubing from my IRL model but I may have to switch to LDCad as stud.io is still not the best at this. As with most of the models of the old studded times, to convert to studless you have to switch the width from even to odd so the truck is now one stud wider. I have tried to keep as many details from the original and made changes where the new beams demand it or where newer parts allow a better build. With the redux models I make I always try to use the most current parts available so people who don't have the original have a chance to build it as well. Please let me know what you think especially the front of the truck as I have employed a few odd techniques to keep it looking like the original. Plans will follow eventually when i get the tubing done.
  6. Few months have gone since I built my last alternative model from set 42106 and I got desire to build another one. The first model was Pullback Racer that I built for TC18 contest - more about it is here. Then I built Pullback Plane - more about it is here. And finally now I've built Pullback Helicopter. I planned to build it even before plane but I rejected it because I didn't see the way how to connect both rotor blades with pullback motor and landing gear. Set 42106 contains only 5 bevel gears and I usually use 6 for helicopter (three pairs). Later I find solution for problem with missing gear - I saved one bevel gear by connecting axle for tail rotor blade to another pair of bevel gears that transmit motion from horizontal axle to vertical. The only con of this solution is low possition of axle for tail rotor - see picture of mechanism. The last issue, I had to solve, was possition of center of gravity - it was too close to tail so helicopter made wheelies. I prevent them by adding structure under tail rotor blade. Do you think it was all for now? No, it wasn't. I've got one more idea, much crazier idea - I wanna build Pullback Steam Engine! I focused more to functionality than its look so proportions are not correct but it really works. Pullback motor is connected to rear axle and it drives also middle axle thanks to piston-rods. Front axle with small wheels works just like stabilizer (I had to move driven axles too far to rear behind center of gravity and whole vehicle would fall on its front without small wheels). Finally I added optional flame on chimney (smoke would be better but I didn't find any in donor set). I plan to make video of steam engine in action but it will not be anytime soon. Any comments and criticism are welcomed.
  7. Hi again, Sorry if I am repeating a topic but I am new in here. Also, I think this topic can stay as long as LEGO Technic exists Including the latest (2019) LEGO Technic sets/models, which do you think is the “hardest to assemble”, complex/though, etc. You understood me. For example, in my opinion, still the 1275 part - 42070 - 6*6 40th year edition 2017 Towing Truck is one of the “kings”. Waiting for your kind and precious thoughts and opinions. All the best, Idris
  8. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! Dodge Challenger 1970 This time, I collected an opponent for the Barracuda, in real life, both cars were assembled on the same base, outwardly they differ only in front and rear) I did not copy, but made a completely new model from the chassis to the body and developed it to more recognizable features, the design became more complicated, and with this the number of parts increased hundreds of times! Because of the large tilt of the whole car, it has got a castor, maneuverability is very good, as well as speed, because under the "hood" is a Buggy engine) Description: - Length 46 cm, weight 1550 g, 2013 details! - Drive - 1 Buggy motor -- Steering - Servotronic - Power supply-Small BB -The steering wheel turns the wheels -Open doors, hood... - Fashion salon -Nitrous oxide! - The receiver is hidden under the torpedo - Roomy trunk ( two PF remote controls go into the light one) - Front independent suspension with positive castor -Rear axle with Panar traction is installed - A lot of system Instructions are available for purchase! 9$ - https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-66388 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/dodge-challenger-1970
  9. I was searching for offers on the out-door suspension and noticed that there are only two sets that include it but I only knew about the bike one. So I checked the building instructions of the 8369 set and omg what is that system? Is that even qualify(of course it does because it's Lego) as Lego? So if anyone can provide info about this strange system I would be really thankful.
  10. Hello! I finally completed my new Moc: a Volvo L120H wheel loader in 1:17,3 scale. I started this project about 1,5 years ago, then I had a pause during last spring/summer, and I restarted working on it on October 2017. It has 4 powered fuctions: - forward/backward (L motor) - steer (2 mini LAs powered by M motor) - rise/lower main arm (2 LAs powered by L motor) - bucket (1 mini LA powered by M motor) All the electric components are hidden inside the bonnet, except one M motor which is in the cab. The main goal was to obtain the correct movement of the arm and the bucket. I worked with the original drawings scaled to the model size. At the end, the linkage works quite well and the bucket stays parallel during the movement of the arm. The battery box is on the back and can be easily be easily removed to change the batteries. Stickers are home-made. I'd like to change the rims with the 6 pin holes rims, but at the moment I only have the 3 pin holes ones. FInally, a short video, but I'm going to make an outdoor video soon : Enjoy!
  11. Proud to present my latest moc. A motorized ATTE. Instructions can be found here it can walk, steer by articulation and control the main gun rotation and elevation.
  12. Hello everyone. I just want to share a MOC i've made recently, it is a c-model of the set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer", so it was designed using only available parts on that set. It is quite a departure from the original, no one would think it was possible to build such a racer with this set. It uses a single l-motor to power one of the rear wheels and the other l-motor is dedicated to steering, which returns to center automatically by using a rubber band. I released free instructions for the steering system i developed for this MOC, check them here. The only limitation are the "tracked wheels", since there is no rubber, they don't have traction on smooth surfaces, this vehicle can only run on rough terrain like dirt, sand and snow, so it is basically an off-road racer. I tried to add as many details as possible given the available parts. The battery pack button is easily accessible, the IR receiver is on top to get the cleanest signal possible and the cabin is used for cable management, giving it a cleaner look. Building instructions are available at rebrickable, i also have a mechanical steering version here if you prefer. It is somewhat big, but lightweight and sturdy, so the l-motors can do their job easily and it runs quite fast. A quick video showcasing it is available here. For anyone who decide to build it, the most obvious modifications you can do is to replace the "tracked wheels" by normal off-road tires; or to apply rubber studs. Everyone feel free to share your opinions.
  13. This is yet another C-Model for the LEGO Set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer". This time around, i challenged myself to use the available parts to build a war tank as closest as possible to the real, generic vehicle. I used the smaller sprocket wheels on purpose to make this model run slower to better resemble the real thing, as the original set doesn't have gears to adjust the velocity. It is powered by the 2 L-Motors, it can go forward and backwards, turn left and right as needed. The front is clear to easily overcome obstacles; on the rear there is a space dedicated for cable management. I tried to keep this build as compact as i could. It may not seem like it, but this was quite the challenge, it went through various revisions and parts optimization until i became happy enough with the result. It can be further improved and modded with additional parts, but i wanted to keep it as a C-Model, so i was restricted by the set's available components. Building instructions available at https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-65285/davejsp/rc-cyber-tank/
  14. keymaker

    [WIP] UAZ 3151

    Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
  15. The car definitely needs a topic like this to look more like the real thing and make it better overall. Here are some ideas: lower the car, fill all holes in the chassis and the bodywork, flip the small panels on top of the the doors around, get rid of all visible blue pins and coloured axles, different wheels, improve the interior by filling all gaps, make the side skirts out of some technic beams like on the 42096 instead of these stupid rotor blades, different steering wheel, ......
  16. Hello everyone! In these hard times I began my old dream to come true - I have started developing a car. This is definitely not a sport/super/hyper car. My aim is to build a luxury sedan. Brand will me mentioned later, I assume after the chassis with drive train will be done (if it would). As for now I'm going to build fully manual version with advanced realistic suspension with pneumatic brakes,, 4WD (actually original has only RWD, but full is more interesting and complex), interesting V/W 8-12 fake engine and rotating gearbox shifters on the steering wheel (initial and genuine idea by @Charbel), detailed interior. And from the very beginning I've faced with difficulties: Those ball-joints are very hard to rotate, the route from the steering rack to the wheel should be the strongest and the simplest in one time. Still no idea for the rear brakes implementation. No room for the fake engine prototype. I want to use regular cylinder parts, but with the crankshaft from the 42078 set (as example). Too hard to place front drivetrain, steering axle, gearbox and gearbox shifters. At my point I think I need 100*100 studs place to handle all this. I'm afraid I'll have to refuse from the front driving feature to handle all other modules. But who knows. And the last fear is the political situation in my country, I don't want to discuss it here, but the mood is very sad and I can be repressed anyway, though. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/wip-sedan
  17. So I was thinking about using some parts in ways they weren't meant or in a unique way. But I found something much better than that. THE LEGO 9V SYSTEM. I saw connectors that are stackable on bricklink. Could you connect them in a way so the result is a parallel or series connection? Just think about the possibilities. Like 18 volt to a motor or not having to change the batteries in your set for double the time. You could also take the rechargeable battery boxes and make a fake and at the same time totally Lego buwizz clone. And it would perform even better. If I'm right the buwizz can supply 11.4v while a rechargeable battery box can supply 7.5v so 7.5v*2=15v! Please tell me that this theory is true. Edit: Ok I found it the names are plate with contacts. I found it on bricklink.
  18. The idea for the B model in the form of the Liebherr PR776 appeared in December 2019. Unfortunately, I had no experience building alternative models, so first I assembled a simpler model - skid skidder based on Bobcat T870. Having already some experience and, what is important, knowing what I can afford during the build, especially the list of parts, I made it. I tried to make all the functions and as much as possible to make the original look like this The tactic I chose when designing was to check whether the new engines and hubs would fit in the 1:18 scale model (scale to the wheels). In fact, when I put the first hub between the tracks and the drive motors, I ran out of space in the chassis. Another problem was the new, long actuators. While they are great for lifting the blade, they are too long for the ripper. In the original, these actuators are very short. To keep the dimensions of the ripper I had to build them much more into the center of the model. This added another space problems and the need to place one of the engines at the bottom of the frame. I really wanted the model to resemble the original as much as possible, so I started building with modeling the hood. Then I took care of the blade, which consumed almost all DBG system bricks. However, the basic curvature was pretty nice. Its appearance gives a lot of visual effect. The problem was the shape of the cabin. I don't know who designed the original, but there is a suspicion that he was drunk. Fortunately, it was possible to create a quite realistic cabin and interior. It is masochism to use the Control + system on models of this scale. How to build in two large hubs so that you can replace the batteries from the bottom and turn them on from the top? The first hub is located under the hood between the tracks. From the bottom we have access to the battery and we activate it with a clever switch in - the left platform. The second hub is located directly under the cabin. This can be easily folded back to gives access to the control hub and turn it on using a switch in the cabin The model does not have a realistic suspension. I resigned from it because the model weighs over 3 kilograms. I really wanted it to be stable and the tracks did not make such terrible sounds as the model A while driving. There are, however, four tilt carts that make it easier to climb over obstacles. Some technical data: Length: 46 cm, Width: 25 cm, Height: 23 cm, Weight: 3.04 kg Drive and steering – 2x XLarge C+ motor Ripper – lift (Large C+ motor) tilt (Large C+ motor) Blade – lift (XL C+ motor), tilt (Large C+ motor) I wanted the application configuration to be as simple as possible, so I also created a custom profile in the buwizz application which greatly simplifies the configuration of the model control. I also made a layout to make the control panel pleasing to the eye. Instructions can be bought at Sellfy and Rebrickable: https://sellfy.com/m1longer/p/42100-dozer/ https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-51120/M_longer/42100-liebherr-pr-776-dozer/ Custom stickers: https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/lego-sticker-set-for-liebherr-776-dozer-42100-b-model/ Download custom BuWizz profile: https://cutt.ly/kfx57he
  19. Hello, This is my first post. I built Wing Body Truck seven months ago. Then I knew that many people wants building instructions. Now it is available. Sorry for late, because I've worked alone! Total 4126 pcs. The weight of Truck is 4600g (with 6x Eneloop batteries).
  20. This model is the next generation of my Nissan-skyline-r34. On this version I reworked many things, such as engine, interior and exterior, improved stability of the model and made it more realistic in comparison with previous version. Instruction: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-65812 Dimensions: 37.5x15x12 stud (30x14.5x9.5 cm)Functions:1. Working Steering wheel2. Openable doors3. Working V6 engine4. Openable hood5. Openable trunk6. Adjustable spoiler7. Detailed exterior and interior
  21. As we all know, vote caused a conflict between Bionicle fans and System fans. The main reason is fact that all of Top 4 series (exept Bionicle) have already some great sets. LEGO Pirates fans have 21322 Pirates of Barracuda Bay set, LEGO Space fans have 70816 Benny's Spaceship and 21109 Exo-Suit. Fans of Castle series have 21325 Medieval Blacksmith and I'm sure, we'll see some kind of Castle-themed series soon, even without voting. What about LEGO Bionicle fans? After cutting short its story in 2010, and waiting 5 years for proper continuation, LEGO created a reboot that failed in many ways. But gave us great parts to creating MOCs. Unfortunatelly, Bionicle G2 ended in 2017 and since that, it's really hard to get any pieces for normal price. Remnants of LEGO Star Wars buildable figures are expensive cause of license and Bricklink is the only place where we can get CCBS parts now. Bionicle fans are affraid that LEGO will soon destroy moulds from G2, making impossible for us to get bricks like 24189, 24190, 24191 or 20474 that were great for building MOCs. The conflict will increase until LEGO start caring about Bionicle fans. If LEGO doesn't want to give us new sets, it should at least release some jars with CCBS parts in three size variants: Matoran, Toa and Titan, which will contain skeleton parts, shells (not only in standard colors, but sand-green, purple etc. too), weapons, technic joints, technic panels and recolored masks that will allow us to reforge our anger into creativity. Bionicle has great potential to create action figures, giant fantasy creatures and vehicles with lot of technic functions. But it's hard to build MOCs without parts. If there's a LEGO theme like LEGO Classic, we can have LEGO CCBS too. I know, part of system fans doesn't care, but what about you, Bionicle fans? Do you think, there's a chance for CCBS jars or we'll continue to buying sets like Corvette ZR1 just to have parts to create another Rahi? :p
  22. Hello everyone: I am glad to share this project, the mining excavator, based on Cat 6090. Phisycal Configuration: The Lego Cat6090 is a motorized digger on tracked wheels, 2 XL motors provided enough torque. On the track frame is placed the main structure, and a heavy duty turntable allows good rotations, without fricctions. The turntable is rotated by means of 1 XL motor. The main structure contains: the XL motor for turntable, the air compressor, 4 servos for pneumatic valves and the controller. The design is ultra compact in order to meet the requierement of size/scale. The tracked whell is ultra rigid structure, designed to resist extreme load. The air compressor has 4 XL motor and 2 pneumatic pumps, in order to provide a constant air flow and high pressure, both pumps are de-phased 180° in order to reduce vibrations. 4 PF-servos open/close 2 way air valves, to command all pneumatic actuators. The boom has 2 large pneumatic actuator. Due to heavy height of the boom, 4 spring supply extra force during the elevation. 2 large pneumatics actuators push/pull the arm, those actuators are placed below the arm. 2 large penumatics actuators dedicate to rotate the bucket. 1 medium pneumatic actuator, open/close the bucket. Electrical configuration: Three 18650 batteries provide an average of 11.1 V, the compressor are suplied with 11.1 V, and the servos, lights and turntable motor are suplied with 9V. A BMS (Battery Managment System) manages the charge and the discharge durgin the operation. The tracked frame is steering by the use of 11.1 V, and as well is manage by the use of a BMS. On Board System (OBS): The name given to the controller. There are two systems, one for the main structure, and the secund is used to move the tracked well. The main controller, is a server TCP/IP protocol. The controller has a ESP8266 microcontroller with a TCP/IP stack, this controller is able to be programmed in arduino languaje (also micropython) - Teh ESP8266 is used as a sever, Motor driver: used to control the compressor The 4 PF servos are controlled by means of digital outputs, and the lights. ld293d, this is a H-bridge used to control the turntable motor. The second controller, is a ESP8266 as a client, and controls the speed of the tracks. Also, it has a BMS in order to regulates the charges/discharge of the batteries Accessories: 1) Josyticks: Two joysticks, with 4 dof (degrees of freedom) each of one plus a on/off button, are connected to the server module. 2) App: An application developmented under Android studio is used to visualizate the air pressure and electrical current, this app is WIP (work in progress). Conectivity: The comunication used is socket TCP/IP- Main features: maximun pressure reached: 52 psi (358 Kpa) Voltage bus: 11.1 V Compressor electrical consuption: 23 W Weight: 6 kg Length: 30 cm width: 20 cm height: 30 cm Here some pictures, during the construction and commissioning Note: my apologies for my primitive english
  23. a little while ago I started making a Pagani Zonda c12 in 1:10 scale here are some pictures on brick safe bc I can't figure out how to put large-sized pictures in here https://bricksafe.com/pages/MY1/pagani-zonda-c12. anyways it has a modified version of @Leviathan's 5+r manual gearbox, the one in his Jannarelly design one. independent suspension on all four wheels and I plan on implementing openable doors and rear clamshell bonnet. suspension is inspired from Legos recent 42115. I am planning on using the standard lego wheel 15038 in the back and the new Land Rover wheels in the front bc I think it gives the car a subtle wide to less wide look. I have not figured out how to do a shifting mechanism yet but I'm thinking about going with a ball joint lever similar to @Gray Gear's cars
  24. Brick_Builder19

    Bobcat S130

    This is a realistic version of the Bobcat S130. This LEGO TECHNIC model built for 1:14 in scale. Functions: moving piston working lift arm tipping bucket Dimensions: long: 230mm wide: 115mm high: 150mm (with bucket lowered) Bricks of the set: about 670 piece Look at the other pictures and If you like this model please support on the LEGO IDEAS side. Link: LEGO IDEAS/Bobcat S130 Thank you for watching and any support!
  25. DISCUSSION TOPIC (THIS IS NOT THE HALL OF FAME!) Welcome to the Technic Hall of Fame Discussion topic. Recently, we have created the Technic Hall of Fame! The Hall of Fame is used to eternalize some of the amazing MOCs created by our very own respected Eurobricks members. Criteria When will a MOC be added to the Hall of Fame? Frontpaged MOCs will be added to the Hall of Fame Contest winners Possibly some older iconic MOCs When it fits the "Could this be sitting on Blakbirds shelf?!" criterium MOC needs to have it's own Eurobricks topic MOC should have it's own Eurobricks topic submitted by the builder of the MOC MOC needs to be Technic, Model Team or Mindstorms Jury Who decides which MOCs fit the bill? Models will be elected by Technic staff members and some gifted builders (whose identities will remain unknown), known as the Chosen Ones Suggestions can be posted in this topic, but ultimately the jury decides Update frequency When will the Hall of Fame be updated? There's no fixed time frame It can take a while between updates (adding entries) How New Entries Are Added The editor will first make place holders, he adds new entry's in one big clump (when time is available). The editor prepares the new entry's in advance on a secrete part of the forum. You will be (or should be) aware that the forum has a time limit that needs to be reached in order to make a separate reply and not to merge with a existing reply if it is the same forum member , this means that each new entry gets post separate reply. This also allows the editor to link to that reply directly. Guidelines I know these guidelines might sound a bit harsh or unfriendly, but I hope you'll understand that they are necessary, in order to make this work for everyone, and for staff members in particular. So please refrain from: Sending suggestions via PM to staff members (we read the forum too, we'll see great MOCs) Elaborate debate with staff members (I like this one better than that one, so why is it not in the Hall of Fame?) Asking questions like "when will this MOC be added?" Asking questions like "why hasn't this MOC been added?" Suggesting of hundreds of old great MOCs So am I even allowed to do something in this discussion topic?! Of course you are! Have a civilized discussion with other members (and staff) Suggest MOCs for the Hall of Fame. Post ideas and suggestions about the Hall of Fame setup Hopefully we will have a great Hall of Fame for the years to come! NOTE When posting suggestions.... PLEASE ADD AN IMAGE AND LINK TO EB TOPIC TO YOUR POST!!