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Found 1532 results

  1. A new project I started working on. It'll be a model of a classic dump truck, with a pickup truck style body and two axles. It'll be something similar to the following: So far I've only done some preliminary modeling, but I already have a general idea for the cab. The model will feature a lime green cab with a gray or black dump bed, two axles with pendular suspension, and BuWizz (not for speed, but to save space as the battery/controller are all in one unit), a fake engine with mini cylinders under the opening hood, and lights. I'll either use the tires from the 42122 Jeep or the the tire/rim combination from the 10279 VW Camper Van and 10290 Pickup Truck. I've wanted to make a lime MOC for a while now (haven't made one since my CLAAS Challenger 95E MOC from 2018). I've expanded my collection of lime pieces a bit after getting the 42138 Mustang set at BrickFair this year, so I decided to make at least the cab for this model in lime. I'm definitely planning to further expand my lime collection in the future, especially with pieces from the 42115 Lamborghini Sian set. Photos:
  2. Hello everyone, I have recently picked up a 42054. Immediately I noticed the insane amount of backlash and resistance in the steering system. Here's how I fixed it: 1: Finding the problem: The problem was one of these: It was adding lots of friction which caused the grand majority of the backlash. It is added in this step (step 57 substep 2): 2. Replacing the piece. This was relatively simple, I replaced it with one of these: I had to hold the other piece in before placing it into the assembly, but it was totally worth it. There is little to no backlash and resistance. So, that's it! Thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  3. Well, i'm a small creator, but I want to make my creations public here, and like other creators I find it uneffective to create a new topic for every MOC, so, from now on, I will use only this topic to publish new creations. Here comes a new MOC: This is an alternative model for the set 42099 "4x4 X-Treme Off-roader". It's an off-road pickup, i call it "Turbo Pickup". I wanted to create a vehicle that didn't use the geared down wheel hubs available on the set, so that i could achieve higher speeds with less gears involved and consequently less friction, while at the same time designing something different from what is already available and this is what i came up with: an off-road racing pickup. It is RWD and the two rear wheels don't use the hubs, they're connected to a differential which has both XL-motors driving it one on each side. This uncommon setup surprised me with its strength and speed, the motors won't stall easily on this one, the picture below shows the motors setup, but watch the video at the bottom of the page to get a clearer idea. Physical characteristics: Length: 42cm / 53 studs Width: 23cm / 29 studs Heigth: 18cm / 22 studs Weight: 1,2Kg (with batteries) Functions: - Independent suspension on all wheels - Remote-controlled steering - Remote-controlled drive on the rear wheels: RWD Miscelanious aspects: - The final gear ratio from the XL motors into the rear wheels is 1,4:1 (my fastest alt model so far for this set). - The front axle ground clearance are 4 studs, and 6 studs on the rear axle. - Batteries can be easily swapped from below on this one. - The green button to turn on the PU hub is easily accessible on the driver's cabin. Check some real pictures below and the video at the bottom of the page: Feel free to share your thoughts. As usual, for anyone who fancys building this MOC, the instructions are available on my rebrickable.
  4. Hi everyone, This is my next project. Its a replica of the brand new Agusta-Westland - AW196 Air ambulance. This model is a lightweight transport helicopter designed to be able to achieve missions in about every possible environment. This is also one LEGO project, and I have tried to take lessons from my previous helicopter MOCs. At this point I have achieved the most difficult part of the MOC. The complete control center of the rotor's head is done and perfectly functional. But before, have a look at the global model in it's WIP state: The global shape is coming out of the bricks actually :) On this picture you can see one joystick standing lateraly in behind the pilot seats: And you have the same on the other side of the aircraft. Other point of view: So, what's the goal? I already build previously helicopters with onboard command, even realistic commands. It was pleasant but not always really practical. So this time I decided to make use of a pair of joysticks, one on every lateral side. The left joystick controls the cyclic movement of the rotor. When pushing it to the front/back the swashplate incline to the front and back (forwards and backwards translation of the aircraft). Pushing the joystick up and down makes the swashplate incline left or right (lateral movement of the aircraft) The right joystick controls: the collective mouvement of the rotor when pushing it up and down The pitch of the tail rotor (command is operational, tail rotor still to build) Actually, the main rotor is perfectly functional with large amplitude movement of the blade. This amplitude was a real goal of this MOC, because I found lots of beautiful build on the net, but not really one with real large movements of the blades. Other view of the rotor head, i'll explain you all of this later ;) On the other function point of view, the BB already is placed in front of the rotor in order to assure a good wheight repartition on the 3 points landing gear. I will place now a gear box with to reversible commands on it : one for the landing gear in/out command and one other for the winch, that actually does not exist. There will also be one main clutch gearbox for the rotors, in order to be able to use of the other function without rotor rotation. So, that's it for now guys, this is the first take of it. Building time: about 20 hours actually. Any comment or idea will be appreciate.
  5. The specs: - 12 legged walker - Driven by 2 Lego Technic Large angular motors - Powered by Buwizz 3.0 - 1 Technic L motor powers the deployable spinning Lego buzzsaw - 1 Technic S angular motor to power the Lego arrow shooter Sorry Lego purists, but I had to use some non-Lego parts in this design: - 4.7mm aluminum tubes front run the width of the robot providing lightweight articulation of the legs in lieu of plastic axles - Stainless steels axles are used throughout the driveshaft due to the inherent limitations of backlash and breakage caused by the Lego plastic axles - Small nuts are threaded onto the upper leg pivots to maintain the connection as Lego bushes simply cannot retain the axles given the duty cycles.
  6. This is an alternative model for the set 42109, as the name implies, it's a sport cabriolet. As a MOC & alternative model creator, i'm always looking to get some more parts, i needed additional Powered Up components and a few select pieces which happen to be available on the set 42109. So i looked at my local second-hand store and found one in mint condition at a good price. I bought it for the pieces, not the model itself, anyway, out of curiosity, i checked the internet for alt builds and was astonished that a set that came out almost two years ago only has a few alternative models. So i needed to make my own contribution and created this racing cabriolet, please take a look and share your thoughts 😊 It features some details like a (non functional) steering wheel, driver and passenger seats, a super basic interior and door handles, things that are not present on the original model "Top Gear Rally Car". I think the bodywork is decent, the model has all the expected details for a car. I don't like the huge amount of stickers on this set, but i didn't want to remove them, maybe this cabriolet could look bettter without them? I wanted to make the rear spoiler lower, but couldn't find a parts combination for that; funny enough, the rear kind of reminds me of a porsche from certain perspectives. I'm using the xl-motor to control the steering, and the l-motor for the drive. Physical characteristics: Length: 30cm / 38 studs Width: 14cm / 18 studs Heigth: 10cm / 12 studs Weight: 730g (with batteries) Functions: - Remote-controlled steering - Remote-controlled drive on the rear wheels through a differential: RWD Miscelanious aspects: - The final gear ratio from the l-motor into the rear wheels is 1:1,29 - Batteries can be easily swapped from below. - The green button to turn the PU hub on is reachable behind the passenger seat. Check some real pictures below and the video at the bottom of the page. Here's a quick video showing how it runs. For anyone interested, building instructions are available on my rebrickable.
  7. Hello all, I would like to present here my latest creation - the historic Czechoslovak tractor Zetor 25K. Series K is derived from original model 25 which was manufactured in many modifications in years 1946 to 1961. Features: 2 cylinder fake engine drag link steering towing joint three-point-hitch operated from the cockpit rear PTO connected with gearbox to drive train, switchable by lever from the cockpit I also want to build some attachments to make model more playable.
  8. This is an alternative model for the set 42099. It's an off-road SUV type of vehicle, i call it "Trail Blazer". While creating this MOC, the focus was on getting a solid performance and i think that goal was achieved: It has a decent speed while at the same time having a considerable amount of torque; the two XL motors are very close to the wheels with just a pair of gears between them for minimum friction, each motor is driving one of the rear wheels. This is not a crawler, but rather a vehicle that can run on a wide variety of terrains, the motors won't stall easily on this one, please watch the video at the bottom of the page to get a clearer idea.Physical characteristics:Length: 39cm / 49 studsWidth: 23cm / 28 studsHeigth: 20cm / 25 studsWeight: 1,3Kg (with batteries)Functions:- Independent suspension on all wheels- Remote-controlled steering- Remote-controlled drive on the rear wheels: RWDMiscelanious aspects:- The final gear ratio from the XL motors into the rear wheels is 1,67:1- The front axle ground clearance are 4 studs, and 3 studs on the rear axle.- To swap the batteries, the SUV needs to partially dismantled: the rear, roof and cabin can be taken out as entire sections for that purpose; this process takes just 1 minute.- The green button to turn on the hub is easily accessible from below the vehicle. Here's a couple pictures of the inside structure: Here are some real pictures and there's a video at the bottom of the page showing how it runs. Feel free to share your thoughts on the comments section! For anyone interested, the building instructions are available on my rebrickable. Thank you!
  9. I’m trying to get green gecko‘s v8 engine to run after buying his instructions, but it runs very feebly. It turns over with modified cylinders and sort of starts then slows down repeatedly. If Any knowledgeable people that can assist me would help I would greatly appreciate it. I do have a hypothesis however. My idea the switch less valve is somehow built wrong somehow because it’s very complex, but I still think it is unlikely because the engine turns over although very slowly
  10. Hello all, Because I'm starting on a new project I will disassemble a few models and I wanted to share them here as a summary of my builds this year. Here are the models which will be disassembled. First of all my crawler crane. I'm more or less proud of this model, as it represents very good a real crane (in my opinion) and I think it was a really good build. Second we have the unimog, it was a build that stretched over various months/years with additions along the way. The last addition was the blue knuckleboom crane. It was full pneumatic, including the outriggers. The swinging of the crane was not good due to the many hoses going through the turntable. also the crane resulted to small for the height of the unimog. But folded it looked quite good proportion wise. Next Is the batmobile, I bought the 42127 set just to build the unofficial b-model, and i must say it really looks good. The model is also a good parts pack for black components, which I'll need for my next project. My son also liked the model and he built a model of his own with system bricks. Last is a model that I will not take apart but further modify and that is the iconic lego heli set 9396. I won't bump the original MOD pages so I'll post the foto's here. I'm planning to build it like the new airbus helicopter with a AA battery box instead a AAA box, I want to make another gear box so the rotor spins faster. Maybe I put the rotorhead of the airbus in this one when I acquire the set. This MOD of the 9396 has in total 4 motors 2 L-motors for the rotor, 1 m-motor for the landing gear (including 2 mini LA's) and 1 m-motor for the whinch. The cargo ramp is omitted in my mod. Also the tail boom was revised, and some minor visual changes behind and in front of the rotor assembly. Also the nose section was revised a bit. Also the winch was revised. My next project will be a full pneumatic, non-rc material handler based on this crane I hope you liked the post, comments are always welcome
  11. Model of New Jersey Transit's 2020 New Flyer XD60 articulated bus. The model has roughly 5200 pieces. Features drive, steering, independently controlled doors, and custom stickers matching the real-life NJT XD60. Functions/features: Drive Steering Remotely controlled doors Custom stickers Instructions available on Rebrickable: In early 2020, the first New Flyer XD60 articulated buses began hitting the streets of New Jersey. The 3rd generation of New Jersey Transit's articulated buses, these buses replaced the aging Neoplan articulated buses that NJ Transit operated since 2004. A total of 110 buses, these buses are a common sight in the Newark area, as well as in Hudson County on routes to New York City. They are commonly used on routes 1, 13, 25, 39, and 70 in the Newark area, and routes 123, 125, 126, 128, 154, 156, 158, and 159 to NYC. The buses are assigned to four garages, with buses 20801-20828 at Hilton, 20829-20848 at Big Tree, 20849-20891 at Fairview and 20892-20910 at Meadowlands at the time of writing. The idea to model NJ Transit's New Flyer XD60 started when the buses were still under delivery in 2020. Work on the model started with the model in December 2020, and the physical model in January 2021. The plan was for a 1:20 scale model using 49.5x20 tires. The functions are drive with a PF XL Motor, steering with a PF Servo Motor, and remotely controlled doors with 1 PF Medium Motor each. I initially thought of including a kneeling mechanism, but seeing as the bus kneels on its front axle, the mechanism was difficult to re-create in LEGO due to there being 3 axles, so I abandoned the idea. The seating layout on my model is identical to that of the real bus - thanks to photos posted in a NJ Transit Facebook group, I was able to accurately model the interior with all 59 seats. I wanted to make a bike rack for the model as well, but seeing as the bike rack on the real NJT XD60 has plenty of complex curves that would be very difficult to replicate while keeping it robust at this scale, I decided against it. In fact, on real NJT XD60s that have the bike rack removed (which is most of them), you can still see the holes in the bumper where it is attached. The bumper on my model has connectors where you can theoretically attach a bike rack, so I guess this is accurate. The model is built with a Technic chassis/frame and a System finish. I initially wanted to make it all Technic with some System details, but seeing as System gives a cleaner and more detailed finish, I decided to go with all System for the bodywork. In fact, this is my first model to have a System finish - all my previous MOCs were at least 80% Technic. The Technic chassis has a frame sitting above it to support the roof, as well as the motors for the door opening mechanisms. The doors are opened with mini linear actuators (1 in the front door, 2 in the rear door). The mechanism for the rear door is located in the upper frame, but because the front panel on the front door curves inward a little, as well as space taken up by the front destination sign, I had to place the mechanism for the front door in the floor, with the motor transferring drive to it via a vertical axle. I initially expected the bellows to be difficult to make and take plenty of trial and error, but after just a few tries I was able to come up with a well-working setup. The bellows are supported by a central section that keep the front/rear halves of the bellows symmetrical at all times, and rubber bands help the bellows maintain their shape, In fact, no matter how I touch the bellows, they will always fold smoothly. It added no extra friction to the model turning, and overall I consider this part to be a huge success. Prior to building this model I did not have many white System pieces, so thanks to I was able to design the model digitally and be satisfied with everything before I ordered any pieces. Thanks to the NJ Transit Facebook group, I was able to get an image of the roof of the bus to accurately model the roof. The hardest part to model was the front roofline curve - the complex shaping is quite difficult to model with LEGO pieces. However, my final design turned out pretty well, and looks pretty much seamless. Because I'm using System pieces for the body, I had concerns of structural integrity as this is something I'm not able to accurately test on, but after building it on my physical model it actually turned out to be very robust. Once the building process was finished, I created custom stickers based on the real NJT New Flyer XD60's details. In fact, most of the stickers were made from photos of the real bus's decals. The stickers are printed on clear glossy sticker paper, except for the destination sign stickers as the details on a clear sticker paper barely show up on a black surface. I initially wanted to replicate bus 20801, the first bus of the series, but that bus was later retrofitted with a grille in the rear so I decided to model bus 20818 with route 39 in the destination sign, as the real 20818 is a Hilton garage bus that operates route 39. I acquired a gray paper backdrop for the photos and video as taking photos on a white backdrop would not allow me to clear the background in GIMP due to this being a white model. I'm really satisfied with how the photos turned out, and there's no editing necessary so I expect the gray backdrop to become the norm for MOC photos from now on. I recently got a GoPro as well, and thanks to its small size, I was able to put it through the rear door to film the model driving from the interior, making you feel like a LEGO passenger on a LEGO bus. Overall, this has been by far my largest project to date. While it's not the most advanced, as it only has 4 motors, it has nearly 5200 pieces and is a revolutionary MOC for me as this is my first model with a System finish. The model took about a year to finish, much longer than any of my previous MOCs. I had lots of fun working on this project, the looks are accurate, and the functions all work smoothly. Given how well this model turned out and being a busfan myself, I definitely see myself making more bus MOCs in the future. Video: Photos:
  12. Model of a modified JCB Fastrac. Features drive, steering with working steering wheel, 6-cylinder engine, opening hood, and custom stickers. Functions/features: Drive Steering Working steering wheel 6-cylinder engine Opening hood Instructions available on Rebrickable: After publishing instructions for two of my MOCs, I realized that both of them would cost a lot to build if you didn't have all the pieces. My Azure Racer XL, while simple with just over 600 pieces, had the expensive and hard-to-find RC motors. My large New Flyer XD60 Articulated Bus model mostly used currently available pieces, but 5000 pieces is still a lot. Furthermore, both models used third-party electronics: the Azure Racer XL used BuWizz and the articulated bus used SBrick. Because of this, I wanted to build a medium-sized MOC that is not only functional, but can be built without potentially spending a ton of money on LEGO pieces. I thought of making a model of the JCB Fastrac tractor, but then I found something that looked even cooler: the JCB Fastrac Two. I originally started designing the model in back in February, but got bored of it after a few days. I did not make any updates to the model until May, which was when I got into designing the bodywork. I finished the digital model in early June, and built the physical model over the past few weeks. Thanks to already having worked on the instructions along the way, I was able to simply follow the instructions I made while building the physical model, allowing me to finish this model much faster than some of my other ones. Some information on the JCB Fastrac Two: it is a modified JCB Fastrac tractor that is built purely for speed. It is the world's fastest tractor, and more information on the original JCB Fastrac Two can be found in this video. While the real-life JCB Fastrac Two is the world's fastest tractor, my model was not intended to break any LEGO speed records. I decided to use the Control+ system for this model, as the system is widely available and I can keep the model 100% LEGO. The model is powered by two Control+ L motors sitting above the rear axle. The chassis essentially consists of two halves with the hub in between, with the whole structure reinforced with longitudinal beams. The placement of the hub allows for easy battery access, and the hub is turned on via a hidden switch by the driver's seat. Steering is controlled by a Control+ Large Angular Motor (the one from the 42114 set). I preferred it over using a L motor as it has more torque, and it just feels more suited for steering operations to me. The rack and pinion setup is placed sideways, with transverse reinforcement for the rack. My initial setup was prone to skipping at either end of rack's range of movement, but moving the transverse support closer helped eliminate this skipping. Additional gearing from the steering mechanism connects it to a working steering wheel in the cabin, and the drive motors are connected to a 6-cylinder fake engine in the front. My plan was for this MOC to be a primarily Technic build, with System pieces used where needed. However, the model still saw a fair amount of System detailing, and it has nearly 90 half pins (not including the new friction ones), which goes to show the amount of System pieces that went in to add additional detailing. The cabin area of the bodywork was largely straightforward, with most pieces connected at right angles with an occasional slanted or curved section. Modeling the hood and fenders were more challenging, as these parts have much more of a curvature. While I'm not totally satisfied with how some of these parts turned out, I was able to model the design digitally before physically building it thanks to which eliminated the need for trial and error. After finishing the build, I designed custom stickers for the model which were printed on opaque sticker paper at Staples. The paper is very good quality (beats the label paper I started out making stickers with), and is easy to apply to LEGO pieces. As for the performance and functionality, the model is decently fast for a Control+ model. It isn't crazy fast (e.g. RC motor/BuWizz speeds), but is fast enough while not straining the drive motors. And while there are only two independent controls (drive and steering), I feel that the fake engine and working steering wheel really gave the model something extra. Mini piston engines (the ones made with half bushes) are always satisfying to watch, and the rattling noise when running is pretty nice too. I feel that there could've been a better way to open the hood that did not require a prop (e.g. a locking linkage), but there wasn't as much space to install a linkage mechanism especially with the fake engine occupying the space right under the hood. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this project. Although I quickly got bored of this project after starting the design in February, my interest quickly rebounded after I got back to working on the instructions in May. Some parts could've been better, such as the hood and fenders, and I feel that the model could've gone a little faster. Still, the model isn't exactly light, and achieving a higher speed probably would mean compromising on some parts of the build. Video: Photos:
  13. Getting there, any thoughts, good or bad. (not crazy about how low the actuator is). Still needing to run the axle up front for that, possible on both sides. Bit more progress, finally time to smooth out the details). Still rough, waiting for parts. New here, and hoping I understood correctly to post new projects here. (Images on Bricksafe). About 3/4 done a 66 by 25 stud tandem flat deck for the "newish" Defender (also modded, black on green colour scheme, with eBay decal sheet, lifted, solid hitch, bumper tow bar attachment points, and a few others). Has 4 wheel independent suspension, with about (2.5 to 3 studs changed), of travel at each wheel with springs, a fold down ramp using one short linier ram, and a fold up dolly wheel at the front. Still lots of little things to finish, any advice on scaling, or tricks of any kind are very much welcome. Edit: now 4 to 5 studs of travel. Trying to use as many olive green panels, and black beams I can, but still waiting on a few more parts, so it's a bit of a VW Harley Quinn. I'm hoping my image works, but haven't much lunch getting the format small enough to post. If this isn't the right place to do this, please let me know, but I'm sure I don't need to ask that. Happy to be here and thoughts and feed back would he fantastic. (Still trying for an image, think this should work)
  14. Here's a new project I'm working on. It is a model of the JCB Fastrac Two. A modified JCB Fastrac tractor, the JCB Fastrac Two is the fastest tractor in the world, and can reach 150mph. My model will feature drive, steering, an inline-6 fake engine, and a working steering wheel. The model uses the Control+ system and features 2 C+ L motors for drive and a large angular motor (from the 42114 set) for steering. So far, I have done some initial modeling in I've modeled the drivetrain and the front axle, and the C+ hub sits between them near the bottom for easy battery access. Photos:
  15. Forklift, Xl-motor for movement, l-motor for turning the wheels, two l-motors for lifting and tilting the boom. Instagram:
  16. After many years of work, I am proud to present my take on the McLaren 720s in 1:10 scale. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr It took 4 different iterations of chassis to get to this final version. I started this project with (almost) no experience in Technic MOCs, so I expected this to be the case. The first version was in 1:10 scale, had an 8-speed gearbox (which couldn't shift reliably), was wobbly as could be, and looked abhorring. The second version was in 1:8, -for some reason I thought that my first technic MOC could be THAT large without encountering many problems- I quickly realized how wrong I was. The building process was infinitely harder than in 1:10 due to the required stability and stiffness and added connections between components. This version had a really unique mechanism that I hadn't seen anywhere else though: adjustable drive modes, thanks to small linear actuators controlling the stiffness and travel of the shock absorbers. (you can find a video of the mechanism in action here:) Suspension with adjustable stiffness by @tiledfloor, on Flickr This version also had remote door controls, but after many problems regarding part count, sturdiness etc. I quickly realized that 1:10 was a better suited building scale for me. And so came the final two iterations, the first was almost a 1:1 copy of Dirk Klijn's mp4-12c, but after completing the chassis, I dismantled it to create one that allowed me to add a couple more functions, but I can safely say Dirk's model was the one that inspired me and taught me the most throughout my journey, along with Bruno Jensen's P1 and Charbel's 720s. And the final one was the one that I was finally satisfied with… Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr I wanted it to be completely modular, meaning that every single mechanism could be separated from all of the surrounding components. This was the most difficult part of the building and designing process. To achieve this, I settled on a transverse 4-speed sequential gearbox (IIRC, it was borrowed from Charbel’s 8 speed design), a custom made v8 which would sit as low as possible to allow for some detailing on top. The most difficult part of the chassis was the one-piece carbon monocoque also present in the real deal. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr It had to be stiff, allow for two functions to pass through it (gear shifting and active aerodynamics), and still fbe as close to the real McLaren as possible form-wise. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr The modularity also presented many problems mainly relating to the longitudinal stiffness, and I must admit, I wasn’t able to solve all of them, which resulted in a chassis that bends a bit when the suspensions are activated. Though overall it does generally behave as a single-piece chassis, and driving it around feels stable. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr The rear axle is perhaps the most compact, stable and best looking part of the chassis imo. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr After the chassis came the bodywork. It has many, many, MANY illegal connections that bend and induce torsion in long beams and panels. But overall, I am actually quite happy with the way the body turned out. The lines are as smooth as I find reasonably possible in this scale, and the proportions are mostly accurate. The car sits as low as I wanted it to, and has many of the original curves and lines that make the car recognizable imo. (most importantly, it passes my “squint test”, where if I squint hard enough it is indistinguishable from a photo of a real 720s.) :) Here is a rundown of the functions present in my model: -independent suspension on both axles -steering wheel/HOG with an acceptable turning radius -folding display in front of the steering wheel -adjustable seat recline on both seats -opening hood (half) and doors (though the doors require a bit of a wiggle to get them to sit right) -airbrake connected to steering -fake v8 -4 speed sequential gearbox controlled from the cabin (via turning a knob) -modular chassis -modular bodywork Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr The rear was very difficult to recreate due to the many intersecting curves and the large space the active airbrake mechanism takes up, but it’s the part of the body that I’m most happy about. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr here you can see the airbrake in action, notice that the front wheels are in a “steered” position and that the spoiler is raised compared to the previous photos. And a final shot of the rear: Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr I am going to upload a video showcasing the functions whenever I can, in the meantime here is my bricksafe for a couple more photos: I eagerly await any and all constructive criticism. With this being my first full technic MOC, as well as my first scale model, there are plenty of things I can learn from you guys. Thanks!
  17. Hi there, here is my latest build - Brian's Toyota Supra MK IV. Scale: 1:12It has the same scale as 42111 "Dom's Dodge Charger" set Features:- RC controlled (driving and steering)- 2 L-motors for driving- 1 L-motor for steering- Openable doors and hood- Modular building (the chassis and the body are built separately)- Doors are supplied with shock absorbers which helps to hold the doors in open/close state. I recommend to use "BrickController 2" app for better experience. Free stickers are available to download, you can find it on my BrickSafe page. I printed all black logos on transparent self-adhesive film and printed colored prints on white self-adhesive film.
  18. Hello everyone, This is Evan here with my first Eurobricks topic! I decided as soon as I obtained the 42122 Technic Jeep Rubicon set to massively upgrade it (similar to what y'all did here, here, and here). The only difference is that I am starting from scratch and rebuilding the whole vehicle based on the original set to not only be more functionally proficient (which is the focus of this venture), but also to look a little bit more aesthetically appealing;) As per my preference, I will start with the functionality. Since everyone else put the differentials in the axles, I decided at first to take a different route and take them out of the axles and instead put them in the cabin. See the following pictures of the front axle: Maybe this idea will work for you in a different project, but I quickly found out that it would not work for my MOC after making a few test chassis assemblies. By displacing the differentials from the axles to the center of the vehicle greatly increases the area that the drivetrain takes up in the cabin of the Jeep, so I decided to go with the differentials in the axles. As you can already see, I went with the CV joints for the steering drive connections just like Zerobricks did. However, I decided to go with the mustang wheels to center the steering pivot more. Also, I added Ackerman geometry to the steering system out of necessity. See the following pictures: I used this piece to connect the steering gear to the axle frame with the gear that drives the differential. It works quite well. Also, the steering rack is held in place by the actual "U" technic frame. Please let me know what you think of it so far, I will continue to update it until I finish it!
  19. 42132 may be one of smallest sets of first wave of 2022, but still, its awesome tiny set. I created replacement engine for its B model, which just drops in on default attachement points without any alterings of the frame. I even tried to make it at least detailed... Empty frame, and new and old engine side-by-side New Engine on its place. LDD model of said engine - B alt engine.lxf?dl=0
  20. Philtech's GBC Modules Here I would like to present you my GBC Modules. First of all I want to show you my GBC Module - Slider. GBC Module - Slider (see below) GBC Module - Lifting Rim GBC Module - Slider It has a slider that pushes the balls up an inclined plane. Here a few images: Here you can see the mechanism: The io-file can be found here: This MoC at Rebrickable: Thank you for reading and I hope you like it!
  21. im finally done with my tank moc! i hope you like it if possible like and share it on insta & facebook (links below) it comes with a detachable trailer and a 3DOF arm thanks @thealvacado for the arm I've improved the bracing of the 8 tooth to the 40 tooth gears as they were constantly popping out also changed positioning of some things there is a 4 pin connector on the end so that its much easier to change the attachment on the end I hope you like it :) spent quite a while making this
  22. Finally we get first video and images of 2015 Lego Technic flagship, Mercedes-Benz Arocs 3245. Let's discuss about this excellent model .... Video: Some pictures: So, ... now it's confirmed, ... we get double rear wheels, front suspension, new pneumatic, tipper bed with LA's, ... and other new parts ....
  23. Link: Just a little creation using the tiny skid steer, and an old city style S.U.V. Suspension on trailer, and truck, this set is always changing, but I have to say this one is my favorite so far. The skid steer is unchanged, but I do really like these little sets, they really spruce up small scale stuff. (I know opinions and as you know, belly buttons)
  24. Dear all, While the news went out that lego was designing a new liebherr crawler crane, I decided immediately to build my own version, with 6 PU motors, 3 L ones and 3 XL's. the boom will have 9X9 dimension. The body uses the turntable of the 42082 rtc. Untill now the body is more or less finished, but it needs still tweaking and further adjusting while the build advances. Now I'm waiting for parts for the boom including some weights for the hook. Here are some photos, including 1 with the previous 42042 crawler crane This is an early work in progress, the cogs are better reinforced and everything is working smoothly now Here the main body is more or less finished, including cabin and ballast (2 times 9 big panels) Here is an image from behind, I used the linear actuators for support of the ballast, and to connect the ballast directly to the axle of the pulleys. I thought it looked very cool a construction like this. The batteries of the batterybox can be easily replaced (no screws). You can also see part of the drivetrain, maybe this has to be geared down a little bit more, the crane runs still a bit too fast. And last but not least a photo for compairison of scale. I hope you liked it for now, as always comments or questions are always welcome
  25. I want to build something inspired by this beast, although my yellow panel collection is rather light on, so it will be in black/LBG. Here is my progress so far: and under side shot: There is currently: 1 PU L motor for drive. 1 PU L motor for steering. And 1 PF M motor for tilting the bed using these pieces I am planning for it to powered by buwizz 3.0