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Found 1464 results

  1. Tractor 851 was the first set I had when I was 8 or 9. I wanted to make a new version but the set was already chosen by BrickBuildingFox for the contest. No matter ! So I will show you a studless version of the 2nd set I received few times after 851: the bulldozer 856. 856-01-original by avantime78, sur Flickr I will build it at he same scale, and try to respect as well as possible the color scheme. First step was to find the bag containing the parts, wash them, and after replace the parts (bushes, connectors 3651), brocken by the age, I built this old 856... Hopefully the gears were OK ! After I started by the bucket. I wanted it to be build with parts and not an all in one like black buckets. So here it is, the size matter the original version, 13 studs length and a flex on the Botton to close the hole. 856-02-benne by avantime78, sur Flickr 856-03-benne by avantime78, sur Flickr Now it's time to imagine and built the bull itself !
  2. StudWorks

    [WIP] Lexus LC500

    This is my first 1:8 Lego car and my passion project for over three years. I had just finished the chassis and the bottom of the grille before a big move meant I had to wait a whole year to work on this again. Here are the blueprints for the model using Sariel's model scaler. Pic 1 is in inches and Pic 2 is in studs. This is my first accurate Lego exterior job so any advice would be appreciated.
  3. 8880 can be called my favorite set of a series of Techniс, and I have long wanted to touch it by assembling it from modern parts, because I don't have any old ones, and it's too expensive to buy the original set. Getting started: Some teaser: Almost done: Final result: Description: All the features of the original set are preserved: steering of all wheels from the handle on the roof and from the steering wheel in the cabin, a model of a v8 engine with a fan, a 4-speed gearbox, all-wheel drive with three differentials, independent suspension of all wheels; Additional functions: Opening the engine compartment with a support, lifting the headlights with a lever from the cab; Comparison with the original: I'm sorry that I published all the photos at once, and not sequentially. This is my first competition for Eurobricks, and I did not immediately understand the rules. I hope I did everything right :)
  4. Hi! It's time to upgrade one more shelf model (the previous one was the Batmobile https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/180543-mod-motorized-batmobile-76139/&tab=comments#comment-3302360). Ferrari 42125 has a lot of free space, so I've inserted four buggy-motors and a few BuWizz receivers. The chassis is very simple, I've removed suspension, V8, driver seat and steering wheel :) And the bodywork is the same as in the original LEGO set. Here is the result: Thanks for watching :)
  5. I decided to join the Technic Studless Recreation competition. Someone starts building a car with a chassis, but I decided to start with ❤ The heart of the model will be a 4-cylinder opposed engine.
  6. Hello all Technic fans, let me present you my tribute to the famous Mercedes-Benz G-Class iconic car series. As a relatively new member, I must introduce myself. My name is Igor, I'm from Russia. Adult Fan of Lego, but I usually do this hobby with my 12 year old daughter. In fact, I'm too lazy to upload my MOCs anywhere, but this time I finally decided to do it. As it turned out, creating an instruction also takes a lot of time and is not as fun process as it might seem at the beginning. My MOC is not really an original model. This amazing MOC by Artyom Gabbasov strongly inspired me to build my own MOD. For some reason, it looks like this MOC has not yet been presented here. Basically, what I built was a modification of it. I disfigured the hood with system and added a couple more motors. Here is a short video review so that you could form an opinion on the look and functions. Sorry for the video quality, I'm just an amateur with an old smartphone. A few words about the details... Body. Still, time goes on and it seemed to me that the old body was no longer cool, so the choice fell on the new body of 2018-2021. In addition, I decided that it would be a BRABUS tuning. In my opinion, the 2018 body looks really modern and I really like it. The body of the G-Class is square, so it won't be possible to work it out on this scale. Therefore, I focused on such details as the bumpers, the radiator grille, as well as the rear of the car. I especially wanted to make the new optics of the car recognizable, so it took me so many LEDs. The hood was conceived in the BRABUS style, but how successful it is for you to judge. Perhaps some of the parts in the MOC will be rare, but I wanted to make the body as black as possible, without blue dots from pins, etc. Interior. Here I tried to work it out as much as possible on this scale. Moreover, I wanted to keep the rear row of seats, so I managed to fit two BuWizzes in the trunk. Wheels. I used RC wheels in this model because they looked better and were more suitable for drifting. I'm sorry this is certainly not original Lego, but the choice of 62mm Lego wheels is not as huge as we would like. Functions. The car was originally designed for racing, drift and fun. But after thinking for a while, I decided that converting the MOC into a boring regular version shouldn't be too difficult. As the extra functions, in the end, I decided to make the front L-motors removable so that you could quickly change the main transmission ratio. And I also decided that the quick-release rear axle would fit too. So that during the game you can change it to a regular axle (with a differential). I also made two color variations of this car. I like blue even more, but some details in this color are even rarer (shock absorbers, e.g.) You can find higher resolution photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/193022960@N03/collections/72157719220016393 If you decide to repeat it, then a free instruction is available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77314/igor1/mercedes-g63-brabus-2021 Feel free to share your opinion about the MOC or ask something further about it. Thank you for your attention.
  7. The set 8445 (Indy Storm) is a beautiful race car, it was the last studded set before lego technic goes studless. I start with the steering system It was the most difficult part to replicate due to its size.
  8. Hello everybody, I didn't notice yet any MOD page of the Volvo EW160 excavator. I find this a really good set and as I'm an excavator lover, I couldn't resist to add a few modifications. I have already done 2- 3 and I have others in my mind. Here are the first ones I took away the cab elevating mechanism. I find the excavator better proportioned this way. It looks a lot more like the real machine and IMHO also a lot nicer. The cab was in the original model too much forward and got in the way of good playability. I still have to get rid of the grey beam behind the cab. I also put a swivel and turning mechanism on the grab, which also looks better and approaches the looks of the real machine. The mods I'm planning is to arrange the hoses on the boom and add rigid hoses.
  9. Hello everybody. I am trying to put in a 2 speed automatic transmission, to a large MOC. I already have a 4 speed manual transmission, but it is hard to reach. I want something that when it goes up hills, it can automatically give more torque with out me having to shift it. Does anybody know how to do this? PDF instructions would be helpful. Thank you, LegoBuilder919
  10. Hey guys, here is a long-anticipated project of mine that I'm finally starting. It is a model of NJ Transit's 2020 New Flyer XD60 articulated bus. My model will be fully motorized, with remote-controlled drive, steering, and opening doors. It'll be either controlled by the PF IR system or by SBrick. The model will be propelled by a PF XL motor, which is already in place. The power source is a PF 8878 battery sitting in the very rear of the chassis. So far I have the rear portion of the chassis built - just missing most of the seats. I've already been building the model digitally on Stud.io for about a month, mostly working on the chassis, so this part should be done relatively soon. However, this is not taking into consideration any potential issues that may arise as I build the chassis in real life. I also have prototypes for the doors' and bellows' mechanisms ready (not pictured), and they seem to work pretty well. So overall, it'll just be a matter of putting these mechanisms together into a coherent chassis. Aesthetics wise, my model will mostly be about the outside appearance, which means I'll focus much more on the bodywork than the interior details-wise. However, the seating layout will still be identical to the original bus, with a total of 59 seats. This is definitely a project I'm really looking forward to. It'll be the first time I model a particular real-life vehicle. I'm a huge fan of NJ Transit's buses and buses in general, and these artics IMO are some of the best buses they've ordered in recent years. And because I'm doing a digital build while simultaneously building in real life, I plan on publishing instructions for this MOC when it's finished. Photo:
  11. I have started building the 8846 Tow truck studless remake for the "[TC20] Technic Studless Recreation Contest" I have started with the front axle: As you can see, I will use a bit wider tires, also It will be one stud wider, so it will be 13, not 12 studs wide. Then, I have built the rear axle, and almost finished the chassis. This is all progress for now, more in next post.
  12. RC Rock crawler. Features AWD drive without differentials using 69730 "Large angular position motor"(As it has realy good torque), Steered by L-motor, and springless suspension (concept by superkoala). Lack of differentials gives nice off-road perfomance, but the crawler has big steering radius due to that.42114 C-model. You can buy instructions here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-81106/mic8per/42114-rock-crawler/#details Video:
  13. Hello everyone, hope you are doing well. I have recently re-visited a model which I started building years ago when I first dove in the world of lego technic. I have made some final adjustments and the model is now complete. It's my pleasure to share it here: 911S 2.4L from the 70's - 1800+ parts - 1:10 scale - air-cooled flat six - 4 speed manual gearbox (an adaptation of the gearbox found on @Charbel's Volcano supercar) - working steering wheel - independent rear suspension - macpherson strut front suspension (courtesy of Gergely's Technic Models on Youtube) - openable doors, bonnet, and engine cover What do you think? P.S.:This MOC shares ~70% of the parts with set 42096 - Porsche 911 RSR. And I have also make sure no blue pins are visible outside. If you are interested, instruction is available here And with the orange F150 fenders available, I'm thinking about building a Targa version too :)
  14. Mini Truck Model 8, Jeep Wrangler 1:15.No play Lego in over half a year, now 'Jeep' coming...At the same time,I would pay respects to Madoca.L motor +new wheel hubs, BuWizz normal.Infomations:L28xW14.5xH15cm, Weight: 970G,Still, simple and good playability, like RC, like real Jeep. instructions for free: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-79593/dpi2000/lego-mini-truck-wrangler-115-moc/#detailsThanks, again! Trial video This chassis part was built last year.
  15. badgerboy

    [MOC] Mr Moon

    Here is Mr Moon: Wind the handle, Mr Moon will roll his eyes as another spaceship orbits him looking for a place to land… "Hooray, we’ve planted our flag!" Oh, looks like Mr Moon blew the flag down again! I'll be upfront, I did this for the ongoing LEGO IDEAS 'Out of this World Space Builds' contest. But, It wasn't always mechanised though, I agonised about my initial idea which was just going to be 'The man in the moon'. I thought I could do a simple Brick Sketches in homage to Chris McVeigh. I just felt that it lacked pizzazz! So I noodled about adding Classic Spacemen, and microfigures and flags, but it just felt like a perfunctory attempt. After talking with an artist mate of mine [a muggle or Noffler (Not A Fan oF LEGO) as I like to call them] I decided to try to add some form of movement. Here is a little video of the mechanism I eventually got to work in action: If the video doesn't play properly, it can be found here too (turn off sound though - my kids are doing homeschooling in the background!). I'm kicking myself a little because there was a prototype mechanism using the yellow racks I had and some more dbg and brown technic pieces that I appear not to have documented photographically :-( Someone on IDEAS has suggested adding the option of a cow to replace the spaceship with if you wanted and I love that idea. I'm close to the 250 part limit. Some trimming is possible in the part count of the mechanism I think owing to a lack of parts in my collection. I actually spent about £15 on a couple of Bricklink orders that included the black curved gear racks and a couple of bigger black plates. I'm going to have a play to see if I can figure something out... guess I'll be buying a cow sometime this week! I feel like I need a disclaimer, I realise I don't post much on Eurobricks, I'm more of a lurker here in the last few years (this was after I realised I was saying the same things in a few places!). I do feel bad for asking for support, but I really would appreciate the extra exposure sharing this here hopefully gives my submission. Please accept my apologies if you feel I'm being mercenary by posting this. For anyone who is willing to make a comment or lend support to my submission, my entry can be found here. I appreciate any thoughts or criticism and thank you for taking the time to read my post.
  16. Dear All, It's my first time entering a contest, but here goes. I'll be trying to recreate the set 8660 arctic rescue unit. I can rememeber that a nephew of my had all the sets of the arctic line, and it was really fun to play with. I'll try to do it with the pieces I have and I'll try to finish it in time. The hardest part will be to include the snowgroomer in the mother vehicle, but I'll make the best of it.
  17. The car definitely needs a topic like this to look more like the real thing and make it better overall. Here are some ideas: lower the car, fill all holes in the chassis and the bodywork, flip the small panels on top of the the doors around, get rid of all visible blue pins and coloured axles, different wheels, improve the interior by filling all gaps, make the side skirts out of some technic beams like on the 42096 instead of these stupid rotor blades, different steering wheel, ......
  18. Hi all, Though work on the MV-22B is progressing steadily, I took on this little side project over the past week: Making an all-Technic MOC of Kaneda's Bike! https _hypebeast.com_image_2017_05_jordan-peele-direct-live-action-akira-tw This is what I've got so far, and I still need to cover some of the interior behind the seat (for which I'll need to destroy my little Ferrari), as well as improve the stand: Ver3_06 by Roel Cruijff, on Flickr Ver3_05 by Roel Cruijff, on Flickr Ver3_04 by Roel Cruijff, on Flickr Ver3_01 by Roel Cruijff, on Flickr Of course, I'll put on a windscreen cut out from some flexible transparent plastic. Also I'll be laminating the stickers to put on with double sided tape. I think it is roundabout the same scale as my bionic Mandalorian as well, so he may be the driver! I wanted to make this model after getting the 42107 Ducati. Just by using the Ducati pieces I got this far: Ver1_frame2 by Roel Cruijff, on Flickr ...Which didn't quite cut it, but once the start was made there really was no turning back. Of course, the interim result is not as smooth and round as the original model in the movie, nor does it have the lines and technological ingenuity of Sariel's legendary model, but I'm quite happy with how it is turning out so far.
  19. TheHarrower

    UCS Star Destroyer Technic frame

    Aloha! If you're willing, I'm in need of some help. So I took notice on the UCS Star Destroyer of how the underside of the stern has a bend to its technic frame. Is there any way to fix this or did I miss a step in building? Heres the link to the image. https://www.flickr.com/photos/190338748@N06/51079892257/in/dateposted-public/
  20. Hello everyone, let me introduce my latest MOC – Mammoet PTC-200-DS Ring Crane made of Lego Technic! This particular model attracted me for a long time, but since I saw it on YT installing the highest wheel in the world at UAE, I decided to investigate it’s building.So I started from calculating it’s scale and number of wheels required. Railway ring set up crane’s scale. Then I decided to make 4 ¼ carriers with two 1/8 halves inside, each on 4 train wheels. So, all in all I required 32 train wheels. So, I started to look for them on BL.Building started from these 1/8 carriers. I wanted each wheel to be driven to spread the torque all over the chassis. So each ¼ carrier is driven by L motor. Totally 4 L motors rotate 32 wheels for crane rotation :)Then I started to build main superstructure (half). Build two similar halves and connect them. Then installed winches, counterweight box and booms. There is not too much information about this crane in the network, so my build is based on some youtube videos and browsed images of the crane. I would not able to get any info from the company directly. So the crane may have some differences from the real model. And for some reason I can't say this is a scale model. For examble real crane has two rings with 64 wheels on each. Obviously, I can't build a model on 128 train wheels - this sclae is simply out of my budget.I was dreaming of a crane which would be able to lift up to 1 kilo. Luckily, this crane one can easily uplift even 1,5 Kg 😊Crane is powered by classic PF elements: 4 L motors for drive + steering rotation, 4 XL Motors for 7 winches. I recommend using 4 BBBoxes as a counterweight. Although only one is connected and needs to be charged. It would be simple to switch crane management to SBricks or Buwizzes (as there are five separate functions, you’ll require 2 sbricks or two buwizzes). Installing PU system instead of PF may become a challenge, especially for carriers. If you have only one battery box - this is not bad, crane is stable even with one battery box as a counterweight, but, obviously, it can't lift a lot or make a horizontal poisition. Crane is 210 cm high in the current configuration at it's highest position. Can lift 1500 gramms or maybe even 2000, but I didn't give it a try to save parts from stress. Fully RC with 5 channels with 3 IR receivers. Can be layed horizontally and back to working position without human help. More images Ah, building instructions are already complete and ready: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77733/OleJka/mammoet-ptc-200-ds-ring-crane/#details
  21. Few months have gone since I built my last alternative model from set 42106 and I got desire to build another one. The first model was Pullback Racer that I built for TC18 contest - more about it is here. Then I built Pullback Plane - more about it is here. And finally now I've built Pullback Helicopter. I planned to build it even before plane but I rejected it because I didn't see the way how to connect both rotor blades with pullback motor and landing gear. Set 42106 contains only 5 bevel gears and I usually use 6 for helicopter (three pairs). Later I find solution for problem with missing gear - I saved one bevel gear by connecting axle for tail rotor blade to another pair of bevel gears that transmit motion from horizontal axle to vertical. The only con of this solution is low possition of axle for tail rotor - see picture of mechanism. The last issue, I had to solve, was possition of center of gravity - it was too close to tail so helicopter made wheelies. I prevent them by adding structure under tail rotor blade. Do you think it was all for now? No, it wasn't. I've got one more idea, much crazier idea - I wanna build Pullback Steam Engine! I focused more to functionality than its look so proportions are not correct but it really works. Pullback motor is connected to rear axle and it drives also middle axle thanks to piston-rods. Front axle with small wheels works just like stabilizer (I had to move driven axles too far to rear behind center of gravity and whole vehicle would fall on its front without small wheels). Finally I added optional flame on chimney (smoke would be better but I didn't find any in donor set). I plan to make video of steam engine in action but it will not be anytime soon. Any comments and criticism are welcomed.
  22. Some Belgian LEGO Fan

    [MOC] Kässbohrer PistenBully 600

    Hi guys I present you the Kässbohrer PistenBully 600, top of the range of the well known alpine ski slope preparation machines. The model reproduced in LEGO Technic is true to scale 1:16 and contains 2044 parts (excluding pneumatic tubes). I submitted it in LEGO Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/4afe4584-482e-4b91-9f3d-e79dd510ad77 (For more pictures, see LEGO Ideas site.) The model has many functions, some of which can be controlled remotely: Drive: both tracks are motorised individually and can be controlled remotely Pusher blade up/down and swivel are pneumatic, controlled from within the cabin The pusher blade side panels are motorised and can be controlled remotely In-cabin selector to switch between compressor and pusher blade side panels operation Tiller rotation is motorised and can be controlled remotely Tiller up/down is pneumatic, controlled on the tiller arm Side finisher are deployed pneumatically, controlled on the tiller arm Tiller swivel is a free movement so it follows the vehicle's path Cabin can be tilted forward and locked in normal position by levers under the engine cover The model uses stickers on a couple of panels and tiles: Doors left and right Tiller cover left and right Front logo Rear view mirrors Centre console monitor Centre console selector and two parts in a new colour: 3x5 liftarm in black (4x) 2x2 round plate in trans-orange (2x) LEGO Ideas rules did not allow this image: Please note that not all new pneumatic and PoweredUp parts are available in BrickLink Studio, that is why it has the wrong battery box, the old L-motors, the old pneumatic switches and no pneumatic tubes. The real version I made works fine though. Let's hope for some snow this winter so I can test it in real life ;) This model can be transformed in the PistenBully 600E+ by replacing the red parts with bright green. I tried adding the winch, but it didn't look good. I guess it's shape is too difficult (for me) to reproduce in LEGO Technic. So no winch for now... To do: - Make an animation showing the functions - Give the winch another try - Add penumatic tubes in drawing (I could try this by exporting the model to LDraw) - Replace L motors and battery unit with PoweredUp version when they become available in BrickLink Studio. Suggestions are most welcome. I hope you like it. If you do, I would be very gratefull for your support on https://ideas.lego.com/projects/4afe4584-482e-4b91-9f3d-e79dd510ad77
  23. This is an alternate build of the Lego Set 42100, Liebherr 9800. Parts list used in the MOC is listed so you can opt to just buy the required parts instead of buying set 42100.Motorized features include: Tank drive for both tracks Arms upward/downward movements Head turn Head tilt Body tilt Manual play features include: Upper and lower eye flaps can be moved to show facial expressions. Finger movements. Limited manual arm movements Here's a link to the YouTube video to showcase its movements: RJ's Johnny 5 YouTube Video If anybody is interested, building instructions are available at Rebrickable.
  24. Hello All, Recently I bought the lego 42114 volvo dumptruck and before I would build that I wanted to build an excavator to go with it. While Flybums excavator is a very good one I wanted to try myself to build an excavator. Here are some WIP pictures. As you can see the top part of the excavator uses the normal power function motors. 1 x L-motor for swinging, 2 x L-motors for the main boom, 1 x L-motor for the stick and one m - motor for the bucket. The main boom houses two motors and is my own design, the stick is an exact copy of flybum's excavator. The motors use use two AA-battery boxes and the AAA battery box is used for ballast, and will later power the lights. The crane uses a normal turntable, as i find the big ring gears too big for this scale of excavator. The top part wobbles a bit while turning but it's definitely within limits. The trackbase uses 2 control+ XL-motors integrated into the tracks with a worm gear and normal gearing. The battery box is situated just below the turntable.
  25. Hello everyone and welcome to another MOC release. This one wasn't developed from scratch, it expands upon the design/concept of another MOC i released previously, the "Nitro Dunner", which is a motorized, alternative model for the technic set 8048 "Buggy". This version improves mostly the design aspects of the base MOC, which was limited by the parts available on the source set. Some things remain the same, like using one servo motor for the steering; using a l-motor to power the rear wheels; and the independent front suspension. So, what changed? - The overall design was vastly improved and expanded, with some sections redesigned, adding details like a (non-functional) steering wheel, air intake, exhaust, tail lights, rear spoiler, massive side skirts. Some sections like the front bumper, hood, roof and rear were redesigned and most gaps covered. - The front wheels were replaced by bigger versions. - The front and rear axles are 1 stud wider and 1 stud closer to each other. If you have the parts, you can also make this steering mod for the IR Remote Controller to go with this MOC. As usual, for anyone interested, building instructions are available on rebrickable, for both the "Nitro Racer" and the remote controller steering mod.