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About janssnet

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    LEGO Technic Super Car - 8070

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  1. janssnet

    Brushless Buggy

    Please have a look here Bottom-line: Length x Diameter x Thickness (in mm) Soft spring 25 x 7 x 0.4. (when using without the LEGO spring housing, just the separate spring, you can use any length of course) Stiff spring 25 x 7 x 0.7
  2. janssnet

    Brushless Buggy

    Here is the video Does this answer your questions? And is it worth doing a separate post?
  3. janssnet

    Brushless Buggy

    Thanks, works! Today or tomorrow I'll do a video to wrap up my findings to make LEGO work with custom motors, including pinion gear, mounting tricks, etc.
  4. This buggy contains a 3600KV brushless motor (2838). It has a pinion made from a LEGO axle and it runs a seriously good working drive-train. Together with the new 42109 differential and a (new?) 2D suspension method it turns out to be a fun car to drive. Please watch a video here. Especially the suspensions are worth having a look. More and more I'm using custom springs to create all sort of applications. Useful and useless. Almost useless is the spring-lock to open the hood. Very useful are the long front springs and the two-dimensional rear springs. Please let me know your comments. No building instructions available yet. If there is a need, let me know.
  5. Thanks for sharing. I'm afraid this is not going to work. The bike will not be able to drive in a straight line. The 45590 is to stiff to allow the front wheel to move freely to keep the bike straight. It's hard to explain, requires serious physics. Bottom-line, if the front wheel has a castor-angle (approx. 30 degrees) and is able to move freely, it will automatically keep the bike straight (at a certain minimum speed). Hope this helps.
  6. Not exactly sure how you did it. Can you share a picture? For the front suspension of the upcoming Bobber-bike, I came up with this idea. Not 100% happy yet, may have to loosen the springs a bit (as Bartybum suggested). Have a look here
  7. Did a quick setup. Took a car gyro (only one axis) mounted it vertically on the bike. Put it on reverse, so when the bike falls over to the left, the steering turns also left, to compensate (counter-steering) and to put the bike straight again. Made a quick video, please find it here. Conclusions: - It works! Although less stable when going straight than without gyro (which might be a matter of adjusting the sensitivity of the gyro), the steering becomes far less unstable. It almost works like 'going back to center' steering. - Springs continue to be necessary for the steering axles. Tried without, but it makes the bike very very sensitive for any change in steering direction by the servo. Almost impossible to steer. Seriously considering to put it on the Bobber-bike, for which every bump in the road currently seems to be too much. What do you think, will the gyro stabilise for bumps in the road? Thanks again for your suggestions. Great stuff!!
  8. Interesting thought! Have a gyro available from an old car project. With the gyro installed the connection to the steering servo would not require springs, can be done with fixed axles. Will be interesting to see if this reacts as quick as a self-stabilising bike to keep it straight. Have never seen it on the real RC motor bikes though ....
  9. Yes, ran into 2 problems. The strength of the springs need to be very accurate to enable the front wheel to move freely, the original LEGO springs are too stiff for this application. Secondly, I couldn't find a way to fit the standard spring in the (very limited) space available. And to be honest, I enjoy these custom springs very much. Lots of useful and useless possibilities. The most useless is a suspended seat on the Bobber-bike, since it's hardtail. Had to consider the convenience of the driver :))
  10. In an attempt to create an RC LEGO motorbike, I had to figure out a steering method. Moving a weight from left to right was (successfully) done before, but I couldn't find LEGO bikes with counter-steering. Inspired by the videos of many real RC bike lovers, I came up with this LEGO-ish implementation. It's not for LEGO purists, it contains modified parts. But it demonstrates pretty nice how counter-steering works and how it can be implemented on a LEGO bike (using a servo). I therefore thought it might be of interest to some of you. If modifying LEGO parts makes you sick, please skip this video. If you enjoy creating new parts (out of other LEGO parts), great! Let me hear your thoughts. On this matter, I personally start to enjoy the use of custom springs more and more (will do a separate video on this subject) and ... I'd love to make a case for an axle with one ball socket. Together with a (custom) spring, can be used in almost any vehicle for suspension or anything else. Have a look at the video and you'll see what I mean. Was an essential element to create this steering. Enjoy watching, looking forward to hear your comments. https://youtu.be/AZQkJCd0VKg
  11. That's great, thanks for sharing. That could indeed be the reason for this notch. Thanks.
  12. Hi there, While building a small rc car using a RIM 55982 (18 x 14) I needed a way to lock the wheels to be able to drive it with a motor. Almost started drilling holes ..... and then, after removing the tire, it turned out there is a little notch inside the wheel. Looks like it is a space for a tiny piece of plastic to slide in, to lock the axle to the wheel. Exactly what I'm looking for! Have I missed something? Is there a LEGO part that fits this notch and locks the wheel? Or should I make it myself. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UgLxSAbwba1zWIg1YRPNkqPdqAq3pMu7/view?usp=sharing
  13. janssnet

    Custom springs

    In case you're (still) looking for additional ideas regarding these custom springs. I found some additional springs on AliExpress that fit the LEGO standards perfectly. It enabled me to created a super-soft and a stiff absorption spring. Hope it is still of interest (after 9 years ;) )
  14. I'm trying to build a waterproof LEGO (power-) boat using a 54779 Hull. Have already attached the hull to the deck using silicone but haven't found a way to build a hatch on top of the deck in order to: 1. Protect the electronics inside and 2. be able to easily remove the deck to switch the battery inside the boat on and off. Just covering the deck with base-plates is (unfortunately) not enough. Water is still finding a way inside. Putting plastic foil under the base-plates is a mess. The remaining option (so far) is to make a silicone mold which then works as a rubber strip between the deck and the baseplates to stop the water from going under the baseplates. Definitely not a method with guaranteed success. Anybody any tips? https://drive.google.com/file/d/168JsCBVT6ALASfuV-NYymiWoyGaMogaN/view?usp=sharing
  15. Is this thread still open? Still interested in some ideas aol000xw?