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Found 30 results

  1. RULES Build a body on the top of the predefined chassis. Instructions can be found here: http://bit.ly/Competition_instuctions You may extend or retract the cassis by 2 studs and change the type of wheels. Any other changes to the chassis are not allowed. You are only allowed to use unmodified Lego bricks and a BuWizz, no gluing or such allowed. You may use third party rubber bands or strings. Each participant is judged in for the following: 1. Aesthetics – the model with the best-looking body 2. Most epic stunts performed – a jump, drift, crash, chase, etc… Try your best to set up and record the most epic video of your creation. Contest voting will be held at here Eurobricks forums, each user can assign points to 6 competitors using the following formula: Contestant 1 : 10 points Contestant 2 : 6 points Contestant 3 : 4 points Contestant 4 : 3 points Contestant 5 : 2 points Contestant 6 : 1 points Competition start: 10.09.2018 Competition END: 20.10.2018 31.10.2018, 23:59 CET PRIZES: 1 st prize: 3 x BuWiz 2 nd prize: 2 x BuWiz 3 rd prize: 1 x BuWiz
  2. Hello to all, I am new here and wanted to share my very first creation with you. This is Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 pick-up. I build it by using bricks from following sets 42000,42030,42042,42043. I took inspiration from RM8 creations but also in the past I was driving this car quite a lot in raw conditions and I have big sentiment related with this Toyota model. Pix and Video are not pro quality as this is my very first approach to build and share LEGO creation so please don't judge me too harshly form this point of view. I hope you will enjoy looking at this model. In the near future I have plan to make simple video how to build it. Under the below links you will find pix and video. https://www.flickr.com/gp/156725712@N06/bP6n4Q Below is video instruction for Lego Technic Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 - body (part 2). Unfortunately due to file size restriction in my camera, there is missing small part of the video where is shown how to build roof and back side of the body. However this two missing bits are easy to reproduce based on the pix. For those who would like to built this body it can be also good opportunity to put a bit of own invention.
  3. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).
  4. Can you guess what car this will be? There is a little hint if you look closely enough. Anyway the suspension is built just like on the real car. I’m trying to recreate it as close as possible. The dimensions are spot on (1:10 scale). This is only a chassis, it's 95% done. It took me 5 days to get to this point (in LDD of course). I’m still working on a body. All of the pics are on my Bricksafe page. So, what do you think?
  5. This is my simple Lego car chassis for Mindstorms and Technic beginners. Features Rack-and-pinion steering Full independent suspension 1:3 gear ratio driven to rear differential I built this chassis as both an experimental project but also an educational one to not just me but people starting to make their own cars with Mindstorms and Technic. If you're looking for a chassis design that may work for the build you're creating (a sports car, sedan, or small truck) then I hope this helps you and I would look forward to seeing the finished result.
  6. UPDATE: Thanks to an amazing effort by Thorsten Spelz full-blown building instructions are now available on Rebrickable! UPDATE: I updated building directions to reflect some improvements to the front suspension. See entry #30 of this topic. Hello, I started a topic on my 'Steppenwolf'-project before, but that post feels a little bit like a false start by now. At that stage I only had digital ideas and there where some correct critiques about the designs I showed, especially about the custom wheel hubs. Since than I thoroughly redesigned the front and rear suspension and about a month ago I started building my 'Steppenwolf'-chassis. Now I have come to a point to show the first 'real life' results and I would like to use this topic to show progress and to elaborate further on specific parts of the concept. First of all it was a real sensation to start building with real bricks after 25 years of not 'playing' with lego. To show a little bit of where I come from when it comes to Lego Technic: this is my last build from about 25 years ago: https://bricksafe.co...jpg/800x600.jpg https://bricksafe.co...jpg/800x600.jpg With the 'Steppenwolf'-project I aim for an AWD platform that can serve as the base of a push-along car. It is meant to fit 'ordinary' AWD cars rather than Baya truck-like vehicles. The platform combines all-wheel-drive with Ackermann steering, progressive camber angle, caster angle, kingpin inclination, 4 stud suspension travel and 5 stud clearance (with 94.8 x 44 R balloon tire). As suspension and drive characteristics have the main focus in this design, I prefer not to see these characteristics being affected by a too flexible chassis. I want a rigid chassis that does not twist too much while riding on an uneven surface. All these ideas resulted in a platform that has been built up from three main modules; the front module, the center module and the rear module. These main modules incorporate the complete drive train, including front axles, rear axles and (5+R) gearbox. The gearbox is based on Boratko's 5+R AWD gearbox and has been extended with a center differential lock. The platform has been completed with three secondary modules; a v12 engine, a steering console and finally two car seats that can move and tilt. The engine can be placed at the front or at the back of the chassis. The seats have been inspired by the car seats as can be found in Nathanaël Kuipers' Concept 4x4 and have been extended with the ability to move back and forth. Both front and rear suspension are independent and based on the double wishbone concept with a longitudinal torsion bar attached to the lower wishbone, see the image below. This weekend I have been able to actually combine the various modules of my build and I'm quite happy with the results. Here are some pictures and a short preview video. Ackermann steering: For the front suspension the shock absorber is directly attached to the lower suspension arm which has been placed up-side-down to avoid it from getting detached from the wheel hub: At the bottom of this picture you can see how the outer end of the longitudinal torsion bar has been fixed to the chassis: Once more a front suspension close-up: The rear suspension is also a double wishbone suspension with longitudinal torsion bars. Instead of using cusps and balls it uses normal axles and liftarms. Each wheel hub is stabalized firmly with two stabilizing links: Both front and rear wheel hubs are based on a setup that allows the lower suspension liftarm to be placed upside down while leaving enough space for the U-joint attached to the wheel axle (5.5 with end stop) to support 4 stud suspension travel: 5 stud clearance: More photo's can be found here: https://bricksafe.co...progress-images And finally here is a short preview video showing the suspension: I'm very curious what you all think of this. My next step will be to build the body work and I will report on that in this topic. I also plan to post some extra details on the front and rear modules of this design - if there is any interest. I might even share lxf-files containing construction directions for these modules (sofar I didn't plan to make real building instructions, but when the whole thing is finished and when there is enough interest, I might decide to put in the effort). Thanks so far! Diederik EDIT: Building directions for the complete chassis may now be found here: http://bricksafe.com...ding-directions
  7. Back to mid in the last year, I started a MOC project. The goal is to MOC a Jeep Renegade. Link is: My jeep renegade The project lasted for an unexpected long time. I just lost my creation and interest after finishing the chassis and most of the body work. After a long break, I decided to give up the MOC. I think it is mainly because my love of Renegade is rather limited. I chose that car as a MOC target simply because I think its square shape is easy to build. So I grew more and more bored with it and finally made up my mind to stop the project. During disassembling it, I came to an idea to make a standalone car chassis MOC. Since like its real world counterpart, the difference between chassis of a same class is not as much as body works. Especially the car makers today are prone to have a generic platform for all their products to save cost. It makes sense in lego world too. It will benefit a lot if I have a generic chassis which works easily with different body works. With that, what I was trying to build a chassis which has: Adjustable riding height Manual/PF powered configuration Adjustable wheel base 3 drive configurations: FWD/RWD/AWD Besides, it has: Compact size which is "only" 18 studs wide 62.4 mm wheels McPherson front suspension Multi link rear suspension Working steering wheel rigid framework As a result, it fits best as chassis for compact SUVs or sedans. Instruction: RB link. Pics: A closer look at front and rear suspension: Riding height has an adjustable range of 1 stud, as you can see, the white one is lower. Thanks for watching.
  8. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  9. Our admins are holding new Bodywork competition in Lego Technic Russia community. I've decided to participate in it and this is my entry. Features are: openable doors, hood and trunk; some details in interior; detachable body; no suspension; simple steering without working steering wheel. In future maybe I will make a good RC or manual chassis for this body, but in this case I will have to disassemble my FWD chassis for Honda Civic project (McPherson front suspension, rear multilink (sort of) suspension, moving by two L-motors and steering by servo with working steering wheel). So what do you think about it? Mustang: More photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm1mRwqJ Honda chassis: Video:
  10. This was originally designed to be the smallest RC car to use a buggy motor, but it soon became an extremely powerful car capable of drifting. I refined the chassis design over 2 prototypes, and then tried multiple combinations of gear ratios and different sizes of wheels to achieve the best speed. The result: this MOC you are looking at right now! Driven by buggy motor, geared 1:1.25 Steered by PF servo Hidden power switch on underside LDcad/POV-Ray animation Video: http://bricksafe.com/files/mocbuild101/drift-racer-chassis/video.mpg Instructions: http://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8835/mocbuild101/2wd-drift-racer-chassis 3D File http://www.bricksafe.com/files/mocbuild101/drift-racer-chassis/2WD Drift Racer 3D file.mpd
  11. Nick Barrett

    [MOC] 42853

    A smaller, studless version of the classic 853, keeping all that set's best features and losing the flaws. The idea here is to create a smaller, cheaper set so it uses around 500 pieces. 42853 by Nick Barrett, on Flickr 42853 by Nick Barrett, on Flickr The engine / transmission unit is easily removable, it runs fairly fast in forward, faster still in reverse just like the old one. Seats adjust and there's that all important rear armrest! 42853 by Nick Barrett, on Flickr 42853 by Nick Barrett, on Flickr
  12. Hi there, after assembly 42043, I wanted to make a little copy. It turned out for me or not, it's up to you. Motorized functions. - Steering (Servo motor) - Driving and tilting of cargo bay (L motor) Manual switching functions "driving - tilting of cargo bay". When cargo bay is lifted, the side automatically opens. The cargo bay is mounted on a separate frame and fixed to six connectors to the truck chassis. So you can easily replace it with another element. The trailer is made similar to a truck. http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http://
  13. before i build my battlebot i decided to make a special project, namely: a 4ws supercar with suspension and drive to rear axles the steering works great Now uses gear rack in rear Servo rear geared down 300% Motors have a 3:1 gear ratio New version updated full gallery at http://bricksafe.com/pages/aventador2014/4ws# hope this will be usefull for all Aventador
  14. In this special film, we put our 6x4 pullback car chassis to the test by racing it, taking it to the skate park, and jumping ramps! The vehicle itself is propelled by two pullback motors. LEGO pieces were unfortunately harmed in the making of this video. CAUTION: This video is action-packed. Comment below your thoughts on the video editing style! If you like it, I can try putting together more of these in the future :)
  15. Hello! I'm back with another MOC, most likely the last one for a long time as I'm rapidly approaching a Lego dark-age of my own (college). This time around I'm finishing off my series of high-speed vehicles with a special rally-style chassis. It is my best handling version so far and it actually has bodywork (more of a tubular rollcage). Details: RC - featuring the custom electronics I've been using for previous versions. Link for those who haven't seen my setup yet. 4 Buggy motors for drive (2 driving each rear wheel, disconnected in the middle). Servo steering (normal Lego servo). 4 Wheel independent suspension - rear includes anti-roll bar and shorter top links while the front has caster and active camber due to shorter top link. Both axles have modified pneumatic cylinders acting as springs+dampers together. Extremely sturdy chassis with little to no twist (I tried hard to twist it from end to end, doesn't budge) plus sturdy rollcage that can be used to pick up the MOC. 3D printed wheels by efferman, as well as 3D printed spherical gear counterparts that act as really strong CV joints. The sturdy construction allows the suspension to work as intended, absorbing every bump. Here is the video: And now for a photo dump: Hope you guys like it! Sorry purists
  16. How to Motorize the Mars Rover I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert level building. (No building the rover is not part of the project, she is doing it as an additional part of her presentation on Rovers). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see So, to steer, I use a servo? How do I operate the other things, more servos? And to move things slowly, do I need complex gearing? (I was looking at the SBrick which might work. I saw a few designed steering racks and chassis on Ebay, some simple, some pretty complex. Would I be better off buying another set that has a chassis and steering and drive designed to work with motors and then build it and adapt the Rover to it? Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  17. Hi there folks, thanks for taking a look @ my creation. When I started driving (real) cars I loved to lower them, coilovers, airride, I tried everything! Now that I drive a real life Subaru Forester (1998) and take it off road occasionally, I am starting to like off roading and their techniques a lot! So I wanted to create a (small as possible) Lego off road chassis with these elements built in: -Front wheel steering system -Rigid axle with free suspension movement front and rear. Capable of off roading and some rock crawling. -4x4 connection with center diff. Front and rear axle locked. -Turning engine concept. After trying a lot of concepts in LDD, I figured its quite hard to put these elements into a very small working chassis. I tried to fit a Boxer engine (Subaru) in there, but it just wouldnt fit. I came up with a chassis wich I wanted to order @ Lego 'pick a brick', but figured that 'pick a brick' does not have enough bricks available I checked some more shops, but lost hope to order the separate bricks. So I wanted to show you guys my concept wich is not complete. Also LDD has some issues with the hinge tool. Its a very nice piece of software, don't get me wrong What do you guys think? (More pictures coming, photobucket is acting a bit strange, sorry)
  18. Hello, after a long pause I decided to begin a new project, another high speed chassis, but this time I wanted to build a chassis with proper driven independent suspension and lighter than my previous build. After many attempts in the past, I concluded that this wouldn't be possible without printed pieces, as lego u-joints just can't survive the shock load of 4 buggy motors. My previous MOCs either had solid driven axles or suspension using only one u-joint, which didn't have ideal handling. Now, after testing efferman's 3D printed CV joints (coupled with Lego spherical gears, similar to 8880) on a small MOC, I used them on this large scale project. Results - it works! They easily handle the power and CV joints are more smooth in general. There is still room for changes and even after these pictures were taken I reinforced the rear suspension. Features/details: RWD - 4 Buggy motors, with 2 powering each wheel, they aren't coupled through the center. Independent suspension on all wheels, front uses efferman's printed wishbones. Servo steering Anti-roll bars 3rd party electronics and custom battery pack link for the curious Total non-Lego/modified parts: Wheel hubs made by nicjasno link Modified 9L links Printed wishbone pieces link Printed lower suspension arm pieces link Printed spherical gear holder (CV joint) link Modified pneumatic cylinders Photos: ^Pneumatic tubes work well to tie down the battery. Excuse the sand, took it offroad for a bit Oh man, I should never sell my parts after using them like this Enjoy!
  19. Hello everyone, I built a model of Kenworth truck (T380) On the way I built motorhome I dream to build a reality ... I added a trailer with a Chevrolet El Camino 72 loaded on it Say what you think Enjoy :-)
  20. Block_Smarts Lego Technic

    [Wip/Help] DuneBuggy Chassis

    I finished the chassis of my Moc. The thing is, I just don't know what kind of body I should put on it, any ideas? Here a pictures.
  21. From the Classic Vampire Movie, "The Lost Boys" I've seen this movie at least 50 times and only tonight, I caught this 1 second clip... Of course the fact that I finally watched it in widescreen probably was the reason...
  22. jorgeopesi

    Chassis

    It is AWD and it has a 7 speed and reverse gearbox, it doesn´t have to be a porsche, I can still change the fake engine I am thinking in 4 different cars at this moment. It works better than expected . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zaig2TfcWL4&feature=youtu.be '>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMzqBx-loAY&feature=youtu.be
  23. I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy!
  24. I've started on a chassis that will eventually be used to build a supercar with, as per the unofficial Technic rite-of-passage: Notable features include a floating differential setup that's borrowed from Thirdwigg's 8081 RT MOC (found here: http://thirdwigg.com/2014/01/12/8081-rt/) The always necessary underside shot: The right and left sides, respectively: The back end: And a shot from the top: A lot of this is placeholder; the entire front steered suspension setup is also borrowed from Thirdwigg's MOC and as such is held on with the power of Grayskull wishful thinking. In addition, the chassis is about as short as it will get due to the fact that the drivetrain is artificially long to avoid issues with the half-width offset generated by the floating differential, and the servo motor is set directly end-to-end with the L-motor. Finally, I think the chassis overall is a little too tall for a supercar, and I would like to lower that somewhat. Basically, I'm looking for what I can improve to make this a bit more compact (and yet still have room for a battery, something essential I forgot to put into this) and what I can do to make it stronger. This project is derived from the thread I made recently about developing a compact suspension (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97809) - as you can see, I ended up using Thirdwigg's solution as it was going to be much better than anything I could come up with in a reasonable amount of time. Let's finish off this post with some nice pictures of the rear drivetrain, with and without the various supporting elements!
  25. Hello! I haven't received my last bulk order from Canada so I'll go ahead and start the WIP topic as the model stands now. I have finished the rear axle and won't make any changes until I see fit. The difference between this version compared to the previous 5 is that I want to attempt more complex suspension systems while still retaining enough strength for the speeds seen with my V5. The drivetrain is different in order to accommodate the rear suspension. 4 Buggy motors driving a 40 tooth gear from the slower output, which drives a modified 4L differential that I've had for a while-it can handle more torque. Photos: It can be locked but I used the driving ring as more of a spacer. I used pneumatic cylinders with Lego springs inside similar to nicjasno's large scale builds. It might be too stiff but we shall see. This version has the sturdiest construction with no chassis flex, and I'll try to keep it that way with a mostly studded frame. I limited the travel so it won't scrape too easily, and the unequal length arms allow for gradual negative camber. If you haven't noticed, the rear is an even stud length rather than the odd length I usually work with, so I had to use some odd pieces to get the desired features. Like I said in another topic, I made sure the rear suspension used nicjasno's custom hubs, and this is the simplest and strongest idea I came up with. Very unusual building techniques were used, but I'm very satisfied with the result. I might have to reinforce some elements later on. Everything is snug, with no room to spare. Hope you all like it so far, the next update should be when the frame starts to take shape. Another note: only a few pieces were modified, which upsets the ancient purist inside me, but I promise I will avoid mangling parts as much as I can