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Found 4 results

  1.  The Sphyrna. My entry for the Rebrick Freighter Wars competition. Piloted by Sif Cahone, 'The Sphyrna' (pron. Suh-fir-nah) Is a Corellian YT1350KL light freighter. Like most of the ships in the YT series, The Sphyrna is prone to being slightly temperamental. Sif is a reluctant smuggler, but with galactic taxation on imports and exports the way they are it's hard to make an honest cred, so she's always on the lookout for low-risk goods to transport. Her co-pilot is 404 (an android) who broke his own programming, Sif found him cheating on the sluggy tables (a gambling game similar to Backgammon). The gunner is known only as Redeye, who Sif rescued from a life of slavery on the planet Cyclopsia Beta. The final member of the crew is the ship's engineer, Ryk Lugfan, who has just helped Sif take receipt of a cargo of highly desirable and much sought after building toys, and being a fan himself, he just had to build one! NB. Syphyrna is the Latin name for Hammerhead sharks Hope you like my entry, but with so many strong entries out there already, I'd be very surprised if I found myself as one of the lucky few. Any comments are gratefully received.
  2. From the designer of fantastic UCS-scaled MOCs comes a Hammerhead Corvette. The MOC contains 3,606 pieces in total, and measures 35 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 14 inches tall. Take down Imperial Star Destroyers with a UCS-scaled Hammerhead Corvette from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. Despite the fact that the scale of this model is unknown, the model itself does not disappoint in terms of both accuracy and detail. There is an instructions bundle available for this MOC which includes a 480 page pdf instruction manual, a parts list, and LDD files. All we ask is an exchange of 35 U.S Dollars ($35) for the entire bundle. For more details about purchasing the bundle, please either PM me or contact me at chrdvorak@hotmail.com via email. As for sticker, The manual includes a plate to where the sticker will go, but until more information is learned about the Hammerhead, a sticker will not officially be released. Here are some images from the manual that show the design and completed model: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUfjEMD Parts list: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7593/cjd_223/dmarkngs-hammerhead-corvette/ Please use this topic to discuss anything about the MOC including the building process, questions, part substitutions, etc.
  3. Hello again, Eurobricks! I decided for my second MOC I'd dive in the deep end, the easiest way to learn, right? So I thought that the hammerhead would be a good choice being such an iconic ship in the canon Star Wars universe now. I will be updating this topic when any noticable progress is made, which may be a while because this quite a large project for me. This is where I am so far...I've taken a break due to the rear section being the most difficult. Any comments and suggestions are welcome! Thank you!
  4. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. LXF-file of the full-featured version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. LXF-file of the chassis-only version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).