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Found 148 results

  1. Hey guys, During a chat I was pointed to the Steinwinter Supercargo 2040. I was fascinated by the look and decided to build it. It was designed by the german engineer Manfred Steinwinter. During my research, I found out that he build only one prototype, but planned many more versions. I liked the three-axled version and so started with a rough sketch to get an idea of the proportions: While I was searching for images of that truck, I also contacted the current IP owner and asked for blueprints. Fortunately he liked my project and he send me some. Since then this truck went through many iteration of improvements and design changes. In the end I decided to use Powered Up to control it. This is the current state: These are planned/implemented features and specifications: Current weight: 3kg Length: 86 studs Height: 14 studs Width: 27 studs Power supply: 4x Technic hub Driving: 4x C+ XL motor, each motor is connected to one hub to spread the load (3,528:1, theoretically 0,74 km/h @7,5V @124Ncm) Steering: 1x C+ L motor, two steered axles with Ackerman geometry Compressor: 1x C+ L motor, 4 pumps 3 RC valves: 3x C+ L motor, 3x newest valve one for each the rear axle, front/middle left wheel, front/middle right wheel Angle sensor for suspension on front and middle axle: 2x C+ XL and 2x Boost Medium motors OR 2x C+ XL Angle sensor for rear axle: 1x motor (not implemented yet) Air/pneumatic suspension on all axles controlled by Powered Up double wishbone suspension on fron and middle axle Each front/middle wheel on the left and right side are one unit. That means if the front wheel is pushed up the middle wheel is pushed down. That way the weight is equally distributed on the wheels live rear axle When I decided to use Powered Up I thought about controlling the ride height somehow with Powered Up. To do that I needed something to read the position of the double wish bone arms and the rear axle. Since several motors in the C+/Powered Up eco system can report their position, tried to use them to read the angle of the suspension arm. I successfully implemented that on the front and middle axle. For the rear axle I haven't found a good solution yet, because that axle can move on two axis. While I'm waiting for some additional parts, I'm working on the solution for the rear axle. As for the code, I already made a proof of concept. I created a test setup and wrote some code, which reads the angle of a suspension arm and adjusts it to the desired value. for the finished MOC a can think of something like a parking height, highway ride height and more or less off-road height. Once the chassis is finished the and the Powered Up is working I'll start working on body. Feel free to leave comments, critique and suggestions.
  2. Finished 01.01.2021 A couple of years ago I started a modular Unimog project with the hopes of having a build that would be flexible enough to support a number of different versions and options. It certainly was. However, the Unimog 437 project was intended to provide a U500 cab option, but for a couple of reasons (namely those tires), it was not a great fit for the project. So in the back of my mind I figured I would do a proper U500 version at some point. The 437 was pretty popular, and it fits within my current design language; mid-sized, manual, truck/car, feature packed. Then when I saw the first reviews of the 76139 Batmobile set, and saw the new 68.7mm tires, and I knew it was time to resurrect the project. I would keep the scale at 1:17.6 as I did with the 437, and those tires would equate roughly to a 445//65/R22.5. Off to the races! I am partial to the 1st generation (2000-2013) U500, plus @I_Igor did a great 423 series already (Eurobricks). Also, I like the 500 more than the 300 or 400. The 300 looks tiny, and the 500 SWB gives me two extra studs on the wheelbase (24st) over the 400 (22st). I guess if I have enough space I'll switch to a 400, but I (generally) never need less space. I pulled a PDF for the scaling, and I started to set my build parameters. I build my MOCs by making a first draft with all the constraints: wheelbase, length, height, width, and general bodywork ideas. I try to keep the colors correct, but if the part is not in front of me, I move on to replace later. Then I start working in features, and rebuild as needed. The first draft came together pretty quickly. While I managed to buy the first tires available on Bricklink, I was not willing to wait for their arrival before I started building. At this point, I determined the features of the truck: Front and Rear Live Axle Suspension (sans portal axles) (With dual leading/trailing links and Panhard rods) Front Steering Fake Motor Tipper Bed Tipping Cab Front PTO Rear PTO Rear Bodywork PTO Front Mounting Plate Modular Rear Bed Attachment Points Realistic Bodywork The tires arrived in time for the second night of building, and they look perfect. By now, all the functions were in place. Loosely. Below you can see the general Front Mounting Plate, and the front PTO. Currently in front of the bed is a Gear that will power features on a mounted body (al la TC9 Entry) Below you can see the rear bed system. I have found this three way tipper option to work great on my 437 and the MAN TGS truck. The control input is currently on the left side, but it will need to move. The orientation of the lift is backwards, which does not allow for good tilting leverage. Turning the mechanism around will need to move the input to the rear. This compounds the issue with the rear PTO. It is currently in place just above the hitch, but will need to move when the tipper input is placed in the rear. Few U500s have a rear PTO, so I'll have to decide if this is a feature I want to retain. More to follow... Until the next post, hope you enjoy the next Thirdwigg Motors project.
  3. 10220 is my favorite Lego model of all time (yes - it wins with every Technic set ;) ) - but it definitely needs some love to be something more than just a beautiful sculpture. I would like to add suspension and steering - but I do not have any bulletproof solution for such a small space (picture of bare "base" - http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c2sdXPLjFxw/TpfWQGZQUmI/AAAAAAAACO8/ARmir6mTTow/s1600/H88-Lego-10220-T1-Chassis.jpg - thanks to The Car Blog) Has anyone ever made a Lego car in similar space with working suspension? I need some inspiration :)
  4. I’ve always wanted to make a trophy truck, here’s my take on one:) I call it the panther because is black, and the headlights make it look like a cat:) It features long suspension travel just like a real trophy truck. Here is the bare chassis. Chassis and body side by side. Specs: Drive two l motors steering servo motor battery BuWizz 2.0 suspension rear, three link front swing axle independent if you have any questions please ask;)
  5. I'm prototyping a small scale Dune/Trophy Truck chassis that I want to make instructions for at some point. I got two interesting iterations so far: The first one is buggy-style with rear engine and rubber-band front suspension. the second one is more of a truck, has a front engine and all shock suspension. Additionally I had some interim iteration between those two that I didn't made a video of, but it had some interesting features as well: Gallery for this build: https://imgur.com/a/6umV5zm I'm still not fully satisfied with what I've got so I'll iterate some more on the front suspension and the chassis structure itself before I can make instructions, but I hope you'll find some of the techniques interesting. Also check out my channel, more cool stuff out there, I promise :)
  6. Designed model is based on my previous model Ford Bronco, but created in pickup version with fully reworked rear suspension and body (look and feel I kept as it was in previous Bronco version). During creation of this model, modular build concept is used to simplify the building process by splitting the overall process on three stages. Instruction: hereDimensions: 16 x 38 x 20 studWeight: 1100 gFunctions: Steering Control+ L motor Drive Control+ XL motor Front independent suspension Rear 3 link suspension Openable doors, hood, trunk Detailed exterior and interior Adjustable seats Modular building (body can be easily detached) Quick access to the battery box for batteries replacement You can change the torque just by replacing gears in the chassis
  7. janssnet

    Brushless Buggy

    This buggy contains a 3600KV brushless motor (2838). It has a pinion made from a LEGO axle and it runs a seriously good working drive-train. Together with the new 42109 differential and a (new?) 2D suspension method it turns out to be a fun car to drive. Please watch a video here. Especially the suspensions are worth having a look. More and more I'm using custom springs to create all sort of applications. Useful and useless. Almost useless is the spring-lock to open the hood. Very useful are the long front springs and the two-dimensional rear springs. Please let me know your comments. No building instructions available yet. If there is a need, let me know.
  8. general molotof

    Help in improving tank suspension

    Hi all, So recently I have been building a T-90A at 1:25 scale. I solved a lot of problems but i am stack with an under performing suspension system. The problem lies at the road wheels, the way they are attached to the suspension, and the traction between them and the tracks, not the mechanism itself (which is fairly responsive). Let me explain: (sorry for the picture quality, it won't let me upload better ones) There are two sets of 4185 wheels, attached to a 30374 light saber blade (which acts as the spinning axle). The light saber blade is itself attached to a 6632 1x3 thin lift arm, which is then attached to a 15462 5L axle with stop that acts as the pivoting axle of the suspension. The suspension is made of orthodontic rubber bands, but the smaller Lego rubber bands should work as well (i tried to explain the poor quality pictures as best as i can). The problem: The light saber blade creates a lot of friction with both the wheels and the axle socket of the liftarm, so when the tank moves, the wheels won't spin (which is a problem). I am asking here for help, does anyone more experienced than me has a better solution (note that the overall dimensions of the suspension, must not change in order to keep up with the scale). Thanks in advance!
  9. Zerobricks

    Tiger 4 x 4 x 4

    After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/tiger-4x4x4/Tiger 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center.
  10. Just an idea I've had for one of my projects but eventually decided not to use it because it looked wrong for this particular project. It works fine, though, so I'm sharing. It's pretty simple and may be obvious, but perhaps it will help someone.
  11. Dimensions: 29.5 x 49 x 30 studsWeight: 1524 g Instruction: download here To see all my ongoing projects follow me on instagram @anton.kablash Functions: 0. In the model i kept original chassis with improvements and adjustments HoG 4-speed sequential gearbox All wheel drive with 3 differentials Independent suspension on both axles Working detailed in-line 6-cylinder engine Working steering wheel in the cab Openable doors, hood The driver's cab can be tilted for access to a detailed V6 engine Working doors locks Detailed exterior and interior
  12. Sariel

    Axle Collection Thread

    Just an idea, hope it helps someone. Instructions available here: http://sariel.pl/downloads/
  13. Designed model is based on the Ford Bronco revealed in 2020. During creation of this model, modular build concept is used to simplify the building process by splitting the overall process on three stages. Follow me on Instagram @anton.kablash Instruction you can download here: Ford Bronco InstructionDimensions: 16 x 38 x 19 studWeight: 738 gFunctions: HoG (detachable) Working steering wheel in the cab Front independent suspension Rear 3 link suspension Working engine Openable doors, hood, trunk Detailed exterior and interior Adjustable seats Modular building More photos in the Ford Bronco Album
  14. C-Model for Creator set 31085 (Mobile Stunt Show). An oversized hot rod for stunt shows, spewing fire, going fast and loud and getting some nice air time after jumping from ramps. Features: - individual suspension for each wheel (hard front and softer rear for crazy landings) - minifig-scale cockpit with steering wheel, gear shifter and mock gauge - small but openable and functional trunk (set's wrench would fit, or maybe two pizzas?) Pictured is the render of exact .io model of the physical build (aside from the rubber band for the rear suspension) - I don't have enough space and proper lighting to make some good photos.
  15. This MOC is almost one year old and was made to participate in Moscow BrickFest 2019 Trophy&Trial competition. According to rules of competition, models need to have differential on both axles. I wanted to make a model with independent suspension and decent drive ability and that is the main reason for engineering solutions in this model, including old differentials being shifted towards the middle of the chassis. The drivetrains are organized with swinging gear meshing which are acting like inner CV-joint. - 2 L-motors for propulsion - Servo-motor for steering - Li-Po battery block - SBrick for control Front suspension is independent and based on McPherson strut suspension. Front wheel are supported with strut and lower arms. Rubbers bands on lower arms are used as springing elements. Lower arms are made of thin liftarms to make driven axle possible with good clearance. All three motors are integrated in front suspension, being as low as possible to ensure low center of gravity and enough space in chassis for shifted differentials. Rear suspension is just another classic double wishbone suspension with pretty long travel. On the rear I used planetary hubs from 42099 set to ensure that CV-joint won't break under the load. Wheels rotation speed is synchronized via gear ratios, drivetrains to front and rear axles are separated and each one uses its own motor. Suspension is quite soft and sink a little under it own weight but keeps about middle position during driving. Overall design was inspired by Safari editions of classic Porsche 911. And some WIP-photos: WIP-photos with first prototype of strut, that was broken by rubber bands tension : And some boastful photo of suspension travel I think of this model as of unfinished, but I don't have neither time or will to finish it, especially regarding the exterior. I have plans for another iteration of "Porsche-like" offroader with another unusual drivetrain. Thank you for you attention! I will appreciate any comments.
  16. Hey everyone, I signed up to Eurobricks because I need some help: I am building a 1:8 scale car right now, and I would really like to make an adjustable suspension for it. Point is: all my prototypes gave up under some weight, or weren't even capable of holding the spring in place... Can someone please help me? I do have an idea: the hole thing could be held by a worm gear.
  17. The most special part of this vehicle is the front axle. It has got a tilting mechanism so the car can drive through the turns without falling on a side. The tilting and steering is powered by a single servo motor. The rear wheel is powered by a L motor. The gear ratio can be easily changed. I found the ratio 5:3 as a best option. More photos and building instructions can be found on my website https://tomastechnic.com/.
  18. Ev3 4x4 tracked vehicle with amazing suspension. Building instructions here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-43681/mic8per/4-x-4-extr3me-tracker/?inventory=1#bi Video:
  19. Hello, everyone! This is my first attempt to participate in Eurobricks contest. I am glad to see a lot of entries and I must admit that I had a lot of inspiration and ideas from them. As you can notice from the topic's name I am going to build Yet Another Porsche, since I am among the others Porsche-lovers. The features I want to implement: 1. All wheel drive with three differentials. 2. Independent suspension on all wheels. 3. Working steering wheel and detachable HOG. 4. Two rows of seats (something you don't see very often even in the bigger scale). 5. Working Flat-Six engine with Boxer configuration (not Flat V180, cause it is Porsche) 6. Openable bonnet, trunk and doors with locks. 7. Foldable front seats (you need to access back seats somehow, right?) I guess the list of features looks very optimistic, since the scale doesn't help at all. But I do love these challenges, as they make my head burn in thinking how to solve them. Also I did want to integrate a 4-speed gearbox or at least a DNR-gearbox. I did come to some compact solutions, but every one of them would ruin the interior and backseats. I still hope to somehow manage it, but reluctantly I discarded gearboxes for now. So far I have a prototype of the front axle and the fake Boxer engine. Front axle. I am really proud of the front axle solution, but I need to thanks other builders with similar setup which gave me inspiration. It is double wishbone indepent suspension with floating differential: The engine. The idea was to make a model of real Boxer engine where pistons are moving symmetrically, since the Boxer engine are the ones that are used in Porsche. The difference between Boxer and V180 is under the spoiler. The classic engine with camshaft and pushrod would be too big in Boxer configuration, so I used the idea with 2L axles and 1x1 plates. The only problem was to make axle move back after is was pushed by the plate. Luckily, @Thirdwigg referenced to this post (in spoiler) and I had the solution. After several iteration, I came up with this. Maybe it can be made even smaller using halfpins but I am already satisfied with the result. Antenna bars are used to prevent axles from falling out in case engine will be tilted. Also, in my opinion, they do look like camshafts to operate valves:) That is all of the progress for now. I do have some ideas for features I listed and would happily share the progress. Stay tuned!
  20. Check this modern tank. It is not a model of some real tank but I think it don't looks bad. One of the most difficult challenges were to build the suspension strong enough and to make the turret with gun elevating system only three studs height. Propulsion: 2X PF XL motor, turret rotation: PF M motor, gun elevation: PF M motor
  21. Hi all, I present you my finished MOC of a 7-seater familycar with full functions: DETAILED PDF INSTRUCTIONS NOW AVAILABLE HERE, REBRICKABLE ENTRY HERE Separate PDF instructions for the roof implement available HERE, Rebrickable entry HERE I got the idea for building a family car about 3 years ago, when looking for a bigger car IRL for my own family. I was intrigued by the fancy seat folding mechanisms seen on these type of cars and wanted to reproduce that. For the model, I took inspiration from the Ford S-Max, which in my opinion combines good looks with all familycar requirements. It also comes in some fast versions, so it is fun to drive as well (unfortunately, IRL this car is well above my budget... Ah well...): It was clear to me early on that I would not be able to reproduce the exact looks (I'm not that good a scale model builder), but I wanted to stay as close to a real life car as I could in terms of mechanical features and looks on both interior and exterior. Meanwhile I wanted it to be structurally sound as well, based on modern "box structure" car frames. I built numerous iterations, starting in 1:8 scale, and later switching to 1:10 scale after having to much trouble with the larger scale when it comes to chassis stiffness. I have worked on this on and off for over 2 years, finally resulting in this build. The model has: 5+ R gearbox with linkage control: full suspension (independent McPherson with drive in front, dead trailing arm axle in the rear): 4-in-line transversally mounted fake engine in the front: rigid box structure chassis full interior with adjustable/folding seats on all rows: Folding the seats movie opening doors (with lock), boot and hood: parking brake (transmission lock) I wanted the maximum available interior space for this car (that's what a family car is all about after all...), so I set myself some goals: no supports from bottom to roof inside interior space: center console should be no wider than 5 studs: front wheel drive with front engine and gearbox: I wanted to create a rigid chassis, which would not bend and is self supporting. Because I wanted as much interior space as possible, the bottom structure is only 2-3 studs high. I couldn't fit vertical frames in there (as they are 5studs high), so in the end the roof became an active part of the structure of the chassis. It is very strong and stiff, when one wheel is lifted, there is hardly any bending in the chassis, instead the opposite wheel suspension is compressed: The whole car can be lifted safely with only one finger, from the midsection on the roof and by the B-pillars and C-pillars: Here are some more pics: For a full gallery and all WIP photo's, check my bricksafe folder. ============================ Below and further in this topic is all the WIP progress of making this car from July 1st onwards: Pic of current chassis WIP with parking break (back yellow knob), gearstick (in front of parking brake) and linkage (beneath and in front of gearstick), and start of gearbox mounting and front suspension (McPherson with drive from Sheepo's MPS)
  22. I loved the building process for the 3T Sports Sedan so much that I started another car. The 3T car needed a friend, and like every car maker who creates a competent sedan and follows it up with a CUV, I will too. Nope. I'm making a sports car. Again, this will be a mid-scale manual sports car with following features in order of priority: Suspension Rear wheel drive HOG steering Steering wheel Sequential 4 speed transmission (currently this one, thanks @Didumos69) Mid engined Flat 4 Discrete gear-change function Design language similar to the 3T Here is the first draft with a Porsche Cayman in the back of my mind, and you'll note a couple of problems already. The suspension is set, and will not change much. The hardpoints are also set, so the wheel base will not change, the rear overhang, height, and width will not change, and the seat and steering wheel placement will not change. Everything else may require some shifting, such as the length and front overhang, and internal placement of components. I do not like the HOG placement, and connecting the steering wheel is going to cause some problems at this point. So I could move the transmission back to the center of the car, and connect the steering wheel and place the HOD on the dash. I could also move the engine behind the rear axle which could lower it by one stud, and bring 6 pistons. But then there is no way this does not finish as a 911. What do you think. Move the engine to the back? Or keep the cabin of the car cluttered with steering and drivetrain parts? I do not have a solution for the changeover yet, so will be coming once I know where everything is placed.
  23. Haddock51

    Suspension bridge

    Where can I find pictures of suspension bridges built in Lego? Estimated length: approx. 1 meter.
  24. Zerobricks

    [TMC]8081 6x6

    I decided to UP the things with my take on the 8081 modification contest. Here's what I came up with: Driven and steered front axle with homeage to the original design Tandem live rear axles working on a simillar prnicipal as the front axle Differential lock Two speed gearbox Working steering wheel You can see a sneak peek of the progress made in LDD:
  25. I'm planning on building a cargo trailer for the upcoming Land Rover Defender! Next, I might plan on building the drawbar.