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Found 123 results

  1. The C-Model of notorious 42039 24 Hour Race Car. Just like Bootleg Belle, the idea here was to build an oversized desert truck. While Belle goes with hot rod styling, Dream is a pickup truck that someone carved up to extreme extent, installed an oversized and boosted V8 in the back, topped it with preposterous wing and thus fashioned a beast to dominate any desert. It looks angry and ridiculous, because that's how I felt while building it - my girlfriend was reading a particularly bad - yet published by a renowned publishing house! - novel aloud while I was building Features: ► V8 engine with moving pistons and twin "procharger" pulleys, ribbed hose headers and two exhausts, connected to rigid transmission with differential ► radiator with cap & hood intercooler intake ► individual front wishbone suspension & rear live Hotchkiss drive (dragged axle) with integrated bumper ► steering connected to HOG ► opening doors ► cockpit with a (non-functioning) steering wheel, dashboard and seats ► oversized rear wing, rear view mirrors, front lights, reverse lights and stop lights, two side fuel tanks with caps
  2. I think anyone who ever used the portal hubs came to this issue. The hubs simply have the steering pivot point so far from the center of the wheel, that you need to either reduce the steering angle, or have a model with large fenders. Today I came up with this simple mechanism to compensate for that by simply turning the whole front axle in the opposite direction. The two tilted 6L links are usually used to keep the axle from moving forwards/backwards. In my case they are attached to the steering rack at a high angle. Moving the steering rack will cause the geometry of the axle to change - rotating it to (mostly) compensate for the large pivot point: Of course this is just an idea for now, but it should be easy to implement on a real model. The wider the axle, the better the compensation. Of course the axle has to be designed in such way, that suspension, drive and steering system will be able to work with this degree of movement.
  3. Thirdwigg

    [WIP] Sports Car

    I loved the building process for the 3T Sports Sedan so much that I started another car. The 3T car needed a friend, and like every car maker who creates a competent sedan and follows it up with a CUV, I will too. Nope. I'm making a sports car. Again, this will be a mid-scale manual sports car with following features in order of priority: Suspension Rear wheel drive HOG steering Steering wheel Sequential 4 speed transmission (currently this one, thanks @Didumos69) Mid engined Flat 4 Discrete gear-change function Design language similar to the 3T Here is the first draft with a Porsche Cayman in the back of my mind, and you'll note a couple of problems already. The suspension is set, and will not change much. The hardpoints are also set, so the wheel base will not change, the rear overhang, height, and width will not change, and the seat and steering wheel placement will not change. Everything else may require some shifting, such as the length and front overhang, and internal placement of components. I do not like the HOG placement, and connecting the steering wheel is going to cause some problems at this point. So I could move the transmission back to the center of the car, and connect the steering wheel and place the HOD on the dash. I could also move the engine behind the rear axle which could lower it by one stud, and bring 6 pistons. But then there is no way this does not finish as a 911. What do you think. Move the engine to the back? Or keep the cabin of the car cluttered with steering and drivetrain parts? I do not have a solution for the changeover yet, so will be coming once I know where everything is placed.
  4. Dear folks, Don't know if this forum is in need of 'yet another AWD front steering', but decided to post it anyway since it may have some interesting features to share: - Compact 5 stud high modular design - Strong, double suspension per arm - Embedded cross block, to prevent bending axles - Adjustable steering arms to enable toe-in and toe-out (and as a side effect, prevents damage when crashing) - Ready for (2.4 GHz RC) servo steering ;) I needed a flat front module to fit my chassis, but didn't want to use the 'old' 3 stud high Wheel Hub (50301). It simply has too much friction in the turns and breaks too easily. Furthermore I wanted to use the universal joint (61903) in stead of the cardan cup (92906). Since I'm putting significant torque on these joints, and it turns out the universal joint is much stronger. However, this does requires the wheel arms to pivot 1 stud wider than using the standard config. Using the 5 stud high 11949 front wheel bearing and bound to a maximum height, I needed a way to fit suspension within this height. Very happy with the result. Anyway, have a look if you're interested. Happy to hear if anything can be improved. https://www.flickr.com/photos/153697698@N03/sets/72157695812709340
  5. Over the past couple of months, I have very much enjoyed many of the build threads that have taken place on Eurobricks. Of note was the excellent Hammerhead thread by @Didumos69 where the build kept improving in no small part because of the feedback given by so many. In this same vein, I wanted to embark on a less ambitious project. I'll try to update as often as I can. The project is a manual sports sedan in mid-scale. Features (at this point, in order of priority): Four wheel independent suspension Rear Wheel Drive Steering (Steering Wheel, HOG) Four Doors Flat 6 Opening Bonnet Opening Trunk Toddler Safe Transmission Current Progress Basically, the dimensions are set, and the suspension will not change much. Now I'm working on a transmission, which I have not decided if it will include. A manual gearbox puts the shifter a little too high for the scale, and this sequential will fit, but the changeover location is not great, either forward or rear. I'll update this again tonight, and see what I can figure out.
  6. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] Unimog 437

    I guess you could say I couldn't make up my mind about the kind of Unimog I wanted to make next. So I decided to make a platform that would support multiple versions. Features: Interchangeable platform Long and short wheelbase options Standard and Doka cabs, removable Manual control PF control (drop in) Front and rear suspension Steering 4x4 with I-4 fake motor Opening doors and hood Tipper bed options Feel free to check out thirdwigg.com to learn more about the build. Manual SWB with tipper bed. Manual LWB Doka with tipper bed. Power Functions (XL drive, Servo steering) LWB with cover. Manual LWB with canvas bed showing the suspension travel. You can find more pictures on my flickr. I have been adding instructions for the various versions here, and more will be added over the coming weeks. Someday I'll make a camper, because, everyone needs a camper. This was a fun project, and I loved the way it turned out. I have the LWB on my desk right now, and I keep getting distracted from work. I hope to add additional options for the system at some point, and will take other suggestions for versions to add. Hope you enjoy.
  7. I mainly build Technic C-Models, but I also enjoy Creator alternatives, so here's what I built out of set 5763. In the photo, hot-rodder sigfig is added for scale and reference). Features: ► minifig scale (with adjustable steering wheel) ► openable and adjustable canopy-cage with roll bar ► rear suspension (individual for each wheel) ► details such as engine with radiator and twin turbo, lights, steering wheel, twin exhaust and rear view mirrors Browsing through OLX (online marketplace fo classified ads) I found old (2011), used 5763 for a price of a new small, ~50 piece set. I liked how the set contained big wheels and offered possibility to build suspension, so I bought it right away. Only one super-cheap plate was missing, so it was a nice deal. The MOC Alternative uses almost every part from the set. As you can see, the build came out quite clean:
  8. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  9. I have finally got around to announcing my 40th Anniversary of Technic build! I am going to be making my first fully manual model in honor of the early Technic models. I am planning to build a 2017 Ariel Nomad Tactical, which is essentially a supercharged, street-legal sand-rail/Group B racer hybrid. The Real Thing: Ariel Nomad Ariel Nomad As you can see, it is a pretty awesome vehicle. It can do 0-60mph in 3.4 seconds, 0-100mph in 8.4 seconds, and it has a top speed of 125mph. It is rear-wheel drive only with a 6+R manual transmission, chain-driven by an inline 4-cylinder 2.4L K24 Honda i-VTEC engine, transversely mounted over the rear axle which produces 235bph (which can be upped with an optional supercharger) and 300lb-ft of torque. It is built for off-roading, as it has long-travel, unequal length, double-wishbone suspension, with Bilstein shocks, and approach/departure angles of 71 and 82 degrees respectively. To top all that off, it comes in whatever color you want it to. And the whole thing weighs less than 1500lb. Who wouldn't want one?! For more info, including all the options and still more specs, check out the manufacturer's page. The Model: I am planning on a manual model with a 6-speed transmission, 3+R gearbox, HoG steering, full suspension, and hopefully a fake engine. And maybe in the future... An RC version with buggy motors! Some blueprints I am using for this model. Ariel Nomad Blueprints CURRENT PROGRESS: Gearbox Revision! All the parts are here! I have exchanged all the color vomit parts for black, it looks much better now! I am streamlining the framework around the gearbox. [WIP] Ariel Nomad Chassis V2.0
  10. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  11. Hi everyone, This is my first MOC to be published here on the forum: a small/compact rally hatchback. It is not a copy of an existing car, but the front is inspired by modern Audi's. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Fast drivetrain Lots of torque (the car must be able to drive on tarmac, dirt and sand) An average scale of 1:12.5 Front and rear independent suspension Front and rear PF lights Servo steering with small turning radius Buwizz 2.0 to increase performance (located under the bonnet for better weightdistribution and easy acces) A light and rigid chassis Openable doors and bonnet A realistic/clean interior (no visible moters/wires/chassis beams) A gapless body, using rather pannels than beams Drift (on sand) It contains 100% LEGO parts (excpet BuWizz) with a total of 1178 parts. I am very happy with the result. Here are some pictures The Buwizz with easy acces... Clean interior... Openable glovebox... Rear suspension... Front suspension... The underside shows the chassis, wires and motors... Annd finally a little video to demonstrate the fucntions and the oudoor performance. Building instructions/partslist: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-14441/T-Lego/technic-rc-audi-rally-car-with-buwizz-20/#comments Hope you like it, comments, criticism and questions are welcome!
  12. It's only photos, but it is a design I've been working on for quite a while now. It will work with the standard 7 long steering beam and Track Rod 6mm, it even gives you Ackerman Steering. 17.5mm, 34mm diamiter rims. So that should cover all 1:10 scale models. You can swap the large spring for a smaller and uses these parts at the top one with parts x1 "Tube with double Ø4.85", x1 "Cross Block/form 2 x 2 x 2", x1 "3 with arch with Knob & Shaft Ø3.2", x2 "Technic Lever 2m" and x2 "Axle 3mm with Stoppers". I have only shown instructions for one side, it should be self explanatory on how to make the opposite side Please find photos Here! Lego McPherson Suspension Enjoy.
  13. This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you.
  14. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video :) Hope you will like it!
  15. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] T-55a

    There have been a couple of projects this year that have been a long time in the making. I have been happy to clean out The Queue over the past couple of months. This is a MOC of the most widely produced tank of all time. The T-54/T-55 series of tanks has its roots connecting back to the T-34 of WWII. This MOC represents the T-55a version, produced from about 1979 onwards. Basically, it means I got to build the AA gun on the top. Much more is at Thirdwigg.com. A video may be found .Features: Working left and right tracks, PF L, 1:1 Turret rotation, infinite rotation Gun elevation Suspension for all ten wheels Removable paneling And the right. The rear. Sorry about the single dark grey tile. The top of the turret. The snot work was fun. The internals. You can see the battery box, the turret mechanism, and the drive motors. The suspension is running down each side.
  16. Can you give me some examples of lego techic strong and compact 4x4 independent suspension.
  17. Hi! A few weeks ago I started doing some prototypes on a tracked trial vehicle. It will probably have 2 long tracks with pins in them, skid steering using 2 L or XL motors and one BB. Goals: find a soft and smooth suspension, have a bodywork wich looks kinda like a ripsaw(not EV2), be able to climb some not really steep hills and descend them as well, float on/over the snow. Acheived goals: find a soft and smooth suspension, I will come back with some photos of a smaller prototype to get the idea.
  18. (sorry for my bad english) I'm thinking which suspension type should I use for my race car. I'm doing it outta LEGO Mindstorms (NXT/EV3). It's suposed to be RWD (with differencial) car for racing on flat surface. But on the the track the is one jump - it has 15 cm (or 5.9 inch). And I need suspension that is going to be light, kinda robust (it has to survive fall from 15 cm (5.9 inch) and also simple. I was using multilink suspension in the back and something like McPherson in the front, but it didn't worked as i wanted. So I'm thinking about using still multilink in the back, but double wishbone suspension in the front. (I'm using soft springs because car weights 850 g (or 1.87 lbs)). What do you thing is it allright or should I change it, or are there some bad sites of this two types of suspension ?
  19. Zerobricks

    Leopard 4x4

    After a few month break it's time to get back to Lego and Eurobricks, and why not do it in style I give you the leopard 4x4: The model is a combination of the following ideas and concepts: Quite some time ago I came up with double torque tube suspension idea and now it was time to use it in a real model Claas tyres were an obvious choice due to their agressive profile and massive size. With the release of the 42069 set, I was finally able to build a model with a unique and striking color combination The final model took me some 12 hours to build and the features are as following: - Powered by 4 RC motors and 2 Buwizz - Double torque tube suspension - Independent dual drivelines - Dual servo steering gemoetry - Working winch - Working lights - Openable doors - Openable hood - Openable and removable rear cover Specs: - Width: 24 cm - Height: 24 cm - Weight: 1600 grams - Final gear ratio: 1:5 from outermost RC motor output - Total power: ~60 watts Now onto the photos: The rear trunk can be opened: There is barely enough room left for seats in the interior. Notice the different springs used to potimise suspension. The before mentioned springs give the model excellent flex: There are two servo motors used in order to keep the steering system as stiff and strong as possible: Under the hood there is a hidden winch, which is strong enough to lift the car: And the final, most important photo. Notice how the left and right side wheel drive axles use different colored joiners and bushes: And finally there is a video of the model in action: Safe to say the combiantion of the four RC motors and two Buwizzes with a low gear combiantion of 1:5 results in a model with impressive performance. As seen in the video Leopard can wheelspin all 4 wheels when accelerating on flat surface, which is a first for any of my Lego offroaders. Dual servo motors provide massive steering power and rigidity and allow the wheels to be steered into obstacles with ease. Only downside to the model is it's slightly high center of gravity cause by all the added panels and detailing. P.S. It feels good to be back
  20. Camellia Café presents a special designed SERVO JEEP model being controlled by Camellia Café Servo motor controller with ARM technology. ' This JEEP is a Full time or Part time four wheel drive car with shrink function and Servo running model. Front wheels and rear wheels are driven by two individual LEGO motors. When both motors are active, it is a full time four wheel drive car. When either is active, it is a part time four wheel drive car. The speed can be adjusted in a large range and with good accuracy via our motor controller. With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. When using a mobile phone and Camellia JEEP APP, your children could control SERVO JEEP remotely. No matter turning, running back or running uphill, SERVO JEEP is mobile and powerful. In the SERVO mode, SERVO JEEP can run in a precise distance at a preset value. This plays a key role in autopilot and auto parking. The steering motor can be controlled with 5 degrees at minimum. Front differential and rear differential are used. Front wheels driven motor and rear wheels driven motor. Front wheels use double wishbone suspension. Steering system With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. 40th LEGO Technic nameplate. Without car cover cloth. The car body cover. Open the front cover to see the front engine. Front engine - 6 cylinders V type. Rear engine - 2 cylinders V type. Rear of JEEP. Car lights: Daytime running light, Foglight, High beam and Red lights for break. Please enjoy Camellia Café servo motor controller and drive SERVO JEEP model. And make you own car at home. http://www.camellia.xin/models/servojeep.html
  21. Hi all, I present you my finished MOC of a 7-seater familycar with full functions: DETAILED PDF INSTRUCTIONS NOW AVAILABLE HERE, REBRICKABLE ENTRY HERE Separate PDF instructions for the roof implement available HERE, Rebrickable entry HERE I got the idea for building a family car about 3 years ago, when looking for a bigger car IRL for my own family. I was intrigued by the fancy seat folding mechanisms seen on these type of cars and wanted to reproduce that. For the model, I took inspiration from the Ford S-Max, which in my opinion combines good looks with all familycar requirements. It also comes in some fast versions, so it is fun to drive as well (unfortunately, IRL this car is well above my budget... Ah well...): It was clear to me early on that I would not be able to reproduce the exact looks (I'm not that good a scale model builder), but I wanted to stay as close to a real life car as I could in terms of mechanical features and looks on both interior and exterior. Meanwhile I wanted it to be structurally sound as well, based on modern "box structure" car frames. I built numerous iterations, starting in 1:8 scale, and later switching to 1:10 scale after having to much trouble with the larger scale when it comes to chassis stiffness. I have worked on this on and off for over 2 years, finally resulting in this build. The model has: 5+ R gearbox with linkage control: full suspension (independent McPherson with drive in front, dead trailing arm axle in the rear): 4-in-line transversally mounted fake engine in the front: rigid box structure chassis full interior with adjustable/folding seats on all rows: Folding the seats movie opening doors (with lock), boot and hood: parking brake (transmission lock) I wanted the maximum available interior space for this car (that's what a family car is all about after all...), so I set myself some goals: no supports from bottom to roof inside interior space: center console should be no wider than 5 studs: front wheel drive with front engine and gearbox: I wanted to create a rigid chassis, which would not bend and is self supporting. Because I wanted as much interior space as possible, the bottom structure is only 2-3 studs high. I couldn't fit vertical frames in there (as they are 5studs high), so in the end the roof became an active part of the structure of the chassis. It is very strong and stiff, when one wheel is lifted, there is hardly any bending in the chassis, instead the opposite wheel suspension is compressed: The whole car can be lifted safely with only one finger, from the midsection on the roof and by the B-pillars and C-pillars: Here are some more pics: For a full gallery and all WIP photo's, check my bricksafe folder. ============================ Below and further in this topic is all the WIP progress of making this car from July 1st onwards: Pic of current chassis WIP with parking break (back yellow knob), gearstick (in front of parking brake) and linkage (beneath and in front of gearstick), and start of gearbox mounting and front suspension (McPherson with drive from Sheepo's MPS)
  22. This is my first WIP thread for a vehicle I've wanted to create for some time now. The most difficult part of this build so far has been the air ride. When Air ride is at its lowest or highest point, it clicks. This also lets you know when to stop lifting so it doesn't over rotate and jam the gears. I placed the 1X1 angled black system Lego on the L shaped beam, so the drop is only 45º on the axle. Then I noticed the weight of the car might not be able to hold the body work up so I added torsion bars to all 4 wheels. This design can be setup as 4 wheel steering, because the front suspension is exactly the same as the rear. (But the SUV I'm building doesn't have that function, so I opted out of it ) This beast comes stock with a V8 engine, air ride & torsion bar suspension, servo for steering, 2XL motors for drive 2M-motors for lift. I had to hide the servo in a different place as the axle for 4wd goes through the center. I am trying to get the steering wheel working but its tough... SUV framework for my new MOC by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I've been working on this frame for 2 weeks and am happy with how well it functions. I placed 3 pounds on the framework and the lift still works. SUV framework for my new MOC by lachlan cameron, on Flickr 2 M-motors are geared down before they turn 1 worm gear on each wheel to lift the whole vehicle.
  23. I built this Lego Technic Pull Back Truck with rear long-travel suspension about a year ago and just got around to filming it now! Two pullback motors drive the rear wheels and off-road tires! In this video, I simply go all action with the editing and test this Lego Pullback Truck in the elements! Please let me know what you think about the editing =)
  24. general molotof

    Help in improving tank suspension

    Hi all, So recently I have been building a T-90A at 1:25 scale. I solved a lot of problems but i am stack with an under performing suspension system. The problem lies at the road wheels, the way they are attached to the suspension, and the traction between them and the tracks, not the mechanism itself (which is fairly responsive). Let me explain: (sorry for the picture quality, it won't let me upload better ones) There are two sets of 4185 wheels, attached to a 30374 light saber blade (which acts as the spinning axle). The light saber blade is itself attached to a 6632 1x3 thin lift arm, which is then attached to a 15462 5L axle with stop that acts as the pivoting axle of the suspension. The suspension is made of orthodontic rubber bands, but the smaller Lego rubber bands should work as well (i tried to explain the poor quality pictures as best as i can). The problem: The light saber blade creates a lot of friction with both the wheels and the axle socket of the liftarm, so when the tank moves, the wheels won't spin (which is a problem). I am asking here for help, does anyone more experienced than me has a better solution (note that the overall dimensions of the suspension, must not change in order to keep up with the scale). Thanks in advance!
  25. Hello, I've been building with lego technic for a couple of years, but found myself never having the right pieces for my builds. I recently bought a second-hand lego set with some nice wheels (8386). So I could finally start building some bigger and cooler cars. I started with my first supercar this week and am having trouble with the rear axle. I am using the method you see in this picture (https://ibb.co/ciYnN5) with 2 separate axles. The problem is that I want to use a differential, but can't figure out how that would work with this. Does anyone have a solution for this, or does anyone have a different, stable (compact) method for this? Any rear axle that has suspension is welcome. I would appreciate it to see more ideas from you. One more thing to keep in mind is that I only have the type of universal joints you see in the picture (https://ibb.co/ciYnN5). I don't have any other. Thanks in advance ;)