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Found 29 results

  1. Hi everyone! Not so long ago, I presented a WIP project I was working on, a 2WD Drift car. So the question is, why am I showing you this model. Actually, the best answer would be that I gave up too fast on the previous one and immediately move to the smaller scale. During building this model, I came to the realization that the problem with drifting in the previous car was not with tires (although suited drift wheels are much better), but with the floor I was testing it on. From that moment on, I was testing the model in a different place, where the floor is made out of wooden panels. Features Locked 4WD with different speeds on axles(front 1:1, rear 1:1666) Positive caster angle Working front and rear lights suited for Lego Regular Lego 49.5 mm wheels (15413+56145) Opening trunk Powered by RC setup (with gyro function - helps counter-steer) Design After the first failed attempt to build a drift car fully out of Lego bricks, I still wanted to use rubber tires and achieve my goals. In the time I was starting to build the model, there were at least two similar cars posted, which reminded me about @Anto Hoonicorn MOC. I wanted to preserve his idea of front axle in my MOC and enhance my model by giving its rear axle faster rotation speed, thus making it slip faster. The source of power still remained in A2212 BL motor, in the drivetrain you can see that it was geared down by planetary wheel hub. Model is steered by geek-servo directly connected to the axle, which controls the steering rack. Legend (explanation on bricks presented in the picture above) 4x yellow stacked 28-tooth gears are in fact a A2212 motor Grey bricks shaped in 5x3x3 are in fact a geek-servo More renders and pictures below Non-Lego parts usage RC setup (DumboRC X6FG, 35 ESC SurpassHobby, SOARIN2 S 1300mAh 7.4V 30C, A2212 1000kv brushless motor, geek-servo, Lucas Oil for lubrication) 1x metal U-joint 4x 1x3 trans-red plates from CADA Finally, I got a short video presenting the model Mass 770g Dimensions 30 x 15.2 x 12.1 cm Scale 1:12.5 GALLERY
  2. Hello and welcome in 2024! Today after quite a break (due to moving to a new house) I present you... Well, it does not have a name yet. Although it is kinda based on real car - Ford Probe II (which I own myself). The idea was to create a version of mentioned real car, but with rear wheels drive so it would be able to drift. After some time spent in the building process I convinced myself that I will simply go with the flow regarding body and just slightly base on Ford Probe II. Features Locked 2WD (rear wheels) Double-wishbone suspension Camber (provide less tire contact with the surface and helps drifting) V6 fake engine Regular Lego 56mm wheels (56908+41897) Manual pop-up headlights Powered by RC setup (with gyro function - helps counter-steer) Design The initial idea was to create a car in roughly 1:12 / 1:10 scale that is able to drift with rubber tires. To help achieving this I immediately knew that I need a camber in the car (this section was heavily inspired by plastic gear YT channel). For differential I went with an old 28-tooth one, because this is the only one (I believe) that can be locked. I also wanted to finally have fake V6 engine in my MOC, so by placing another 20-tooth gear in the back of the frame it not only helped transfer rotation to V6 section, but also secured differential, so it cannot skip gears. Source of power comes from A2212 BL motor, it is then transfered to Lego system using slight modification in its shaft (I explained this topic a little bit in one of my previous posts. If you want me to elaborate it deeply, please let me know :). I then gained torque but decreased speed using 46490 wheel hub as transmission. The steering is done by geek-servo, although I have a problem with those, because in fact they are not fully rotating +90/-90 degree, so I needed to put 20-tooth gear first and follow it by 12-tooth so it rotates slightly more than +/- 90 degrees. This solution provides a massive steering angle, which cost me giving up on regular wheel panel arches. So does it drift, that is the question. Answer is yes and no, what I mean by that is that without a body it does have a perfect 50/50 front/rear balance and tuning the gyro helps even further with drifting. I recently started to work on a body and sometimes I do test-drives and I can see heavy impact of that extra bricks. With the body now placed mainly in the front of the car it is a lot harder to handle and it mostly spins like most of lego "drift" cars. We will need to wait for final results after I finish the whole body and tweak everything. The video will be for sure, but not yet (need to learn properly how to drive it and build body ). Time for some renders and pictures Legend (explanation on bricks presented in the topic) 4x yellow stacked 28-tooth gears are in fact a A2212 motor Red bricks shaped in 5x3x3 are in fact a geek-servo Gloss 11x3 panels with some other bricks that are in two 5x7 technic frames are in fact a battery Front axle close-up Rear axle close-up Built MOC Partly finished body Non-Lego parts usage RC setup (DumboRC X6FG, 35 ESC SurpassHobby, GensAce LiPo 1800mah 11.1V, A2212 1000kv brushless motor, geek-servo, Lucas Oil for lubrication) 2x 3L axle cut to 2,5L (used in driveshaft in each wheel, because of non-standard length) 2x half bush cut in half, so it is 0.25 stud long (used in driveshaft in each wheel, because of non-standard length) 2x metal U-joints Mass (without body) 706g Dimensions (without body) 21.3 x 33.6 x 8.5 cm Scale around 1:11 Gallery
  3. Here is my new 4WD Chassis for drifting. At least it is a modification of my previous chassis and it works really good. Propulsion: Monster Motor 1:1 gearing Steering: Servo with positive caster MK Battery Weight: ca. 300g and a short clip of driving: Hope you enjoy it 😊 greetings, Friedl
  4. Hello, i like to show you my version of a drifting G-Class. Bodywork design is by i just did some modifications to fit my 4wd chassis with rc components. propulsion: buggy motor steering: geek servo receiver: Radiolink battery: 7.4V LiPo here are some pictures: and a clip: Hope you like it 😊 Cheers, Friedl
  5. A new rebuild oft the drift chassis byà Blancafort/rc-awd-mazda-rx7-drift/#details i changed the gearing: front: 16/28 open diff rear: 20/28 locked diff working steering wheel fake V10 engine lockable center diff here some pics:
  6. This is my first buwizz creation. Toyota AE86 initial-D drift machine Allmost other AE86 mocs are small scale but this is 1:10 scale large model and even that size, model can still drifting. Mechanisem is secret now but I will make video and instruction soon. Now I thinking how to take video. I use custom made part for some part because studio don't have PF switch and 44777 pure plastic wheel. The interior was not put in because the secret mechanism occupied almost the entire center of the vehicle. Motor used 2 L for driving 2 servo for steering(cause one motor's power is not enough) 1 servo, 1 switch, 1 light for pop-up headlight 1 Buwizz Now I take video! Instruction finish!
  7. Hello all Technic fans, let me present you my tribute to the famous Mercedes-Benz G-Class iconic car series. As a relatively new member, I must introduce myself. My name is Igor, I'm from Russia. Adult Fan of Lego, but I usually do this hobby with my 12 year old daughter. In fact, I'm too lazy to upload my MOCs anywhere, but this time I finally decided to do it. As it turned out, creating an instruction also takes a lot of time and is not as fun process as it might seem at the beginning. My MOC is not really an original model. This amazing MOC by Artyom Gabbasov strongly inspired me to build my own MOD. For some reason, it looks like this MOC has not yet been presented here. Basically, what I built was a deep modification of it. I disfigured the hood with system and added a couple more motors. Here is a short video review so that you could form an opinion on the look and functions. Sorry for the video quality, I'm just an amateur with an old smartphone. A few words about the details... Body. Still, time goes on and it seemed to me that the old body was no longer cool, so the choice fell on the new body of 2018-2021. In addition, I decided that it would be a BRABUS tuning. In my opinion, the 2018 body looks really modern and I really like it. The body of the G-Class is square, so it won't be possible to work it out on this scale. Therefore, I focused on such details as the bumpers, the radiator grille, as well as the rear of the car. I especially wanted to make the new optics of the car recognizable, so it took me so many LEDs. The hood was conceived in the BRABUS style, but how successful it is for you to judge. Perhaps some of the parts in the MOC will be rare, but I wanted to make the body as black as possible, without blue dots from pins, etc. Interior. Here I tried to work it out as much as possible on this scale. Moreover, I wanted to keep the rear row of seats, so I managed to fit two BuWizzes in the trunk. Wheels. I used RC wheels in this model because they looked better and were more suitable for drifting. I'm sorry this is certainly not original Lego, but the choice of 62mm Lego wheels is not as huge as we would like. Functions. The car was originally designed for racing, drift and fun. But after thinking for a while, I decided that converting the MOC into a boring regular version shouldn't be too difficult. As the extra functions, in the end, I decided to make the front L-motors removable so that you could quickly change the main transmission ratio. And I also decided that the quick-release rear axle would fit too. So that during the game you can change it to a regular axle (with a differential). I also made two color variations of this car. I like blue even more, but some details in this color are even rarer (shock absorbers, e.g.) You can find higher resolution photos here: If you decide to repeat it, then a free instruction is available here: Feel free to share your opinion about the MOC or ask something further about it. Thank you for your attention.
  8. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  9. Hello everyone! In december I started my drift-car project. I made the chassis witn 1 Buggy Motor & Buwizz. Than, after 2 months of work, car looked like this: You can check out the album here: But, my friends said that the chassis is very bad & that was true, so I refreshed all the chassis. The old chassis... The new one:
  10. Finnaly, it's time to upload this MOC. Proudly presenting you my new Trueno. It's powered by BuWizz, and therefore it can drift on some surfaces. I also did a render of it : As I made some instructions using, I don't give them for free, so you can buy them on Rebrickable. Of course, a video : Hope you like it, feel free to ask any question about this moc, I will try to answer to them.
  11. Hi everyone, perhabs some of you remember my first post on eb: Audi rally car. Soon after I posted it, I realised that I didn't like it enough. Therefore I decided to create a brand new version with roughly the same DNA. The main goals for the new version were to look better and drive better compared to the old one. To improve the looks, I went for a classic collor scheme: red body and black roof. I also downsized the width (17 stud compared to 18) and the wheelbase (two studs shorter). To get some more contrast, I put blue racing stripes on the seats. Making the car smaller meant I couldn't use some tricks used in the old one, such as BuWizz inbetween the front wheels. It is now located underneath the trim. To improve driving, I decided to use two Buggy motors rather than one and put them as low as possible in the chassis for the best COG. The gear ratio is the same as before: 1:1. The steering is also much smoother and has almost no backlash. Due to these improvements the car drifts WAY better then the old one. It even does donuts. Here you can see some pictures of the drivetrain and rear suspension. Due to the insane power from two buggy motors, gears often slipped during the development. A simple but effective solution I came up with was to use knop gears rather than 12t bevel gears to transfer the power to the rear wheels. The car features, like the old one, front and rear suspension, but it is a very different setup. The front now uses traditional suspension arms and the rear is a liveaxle without diff. The doors and bonnet can be opened manually. Because there is no battery under the bonnet, there was a bit of space for a fake V6 engine made out of knop gears. More pictures can be found here: In case you think that the car is slow, that is due to the fact that I am a NOOB driver. In all the video clips BuWizz was in normal mode. You can watch the video presentation here: I'd love to know your thoughts and critics or other feedback are highly appreciated too.
  12. Aircraft ain't my thing, dumb ideas are Basically rear end was a concept from 2016, rebuilt it in october last year as I wanted to test whether a counterweight placed in the rear of a vehicle would help with "drifting". Of course, this was paired with the best lego motors (2x mythical buggy motors), BuWizz (1.0 ) and not the grippiest floor tiles, producing a very fun experience (donuts, 180° turns, and if lucky, something resembling a drift). The steering department was done with a M-motor RTC-ed by a hockey spring as always. Controlled using the beta BuWizz app, which was a nice experience and luckily suffered a lot less connection issues than the older counterpart. Bodywork. Tough department. Looking back at it, could've done a better job on the front, but wanted to try something different to classic bionicle eyes. Was able to place 2 Technic figures inside tho. The video was thrown together today (3 months after finishing ) so as to finally dissasemble this thing. Any additional pics will be in the same Brickshelf folder. INSTRUCTIONS Download here (302.9MB) And the mandatory belly shot: Thanks for reading!
  13. Hello there. A spontaneous MOC: Drift Buggy - 2 L paired for 2 rear WD - Servo for steering - Buwizz Weight: 950g. Dimensions: 32cm long x 23cm wide x 14cm height. Wanted to build a quick medium sized vehicle with 62 mm wheels, but since I had rc third party tires, decided to try them on - and wasn't dissapointed. Gear ratio is 1:1. Some photos: Perfect donut timer 2:04 in the video
  14. So there it is, my 'illegal' entry to AMS2, wich is illegal because it uses a rechargeable (LiPo) battery instead of the Lego 6xAA batteryboxes wich are drained very fast, expensive and bad for the enviroment, so I don't use them, purist rules are ok untill they stop making logical sense and become outings of total OCD only. Eat Dust ! Big enigines need big tailpipes. Pneumatic lifting of the bodywork to acces tech area, it can also ride in this position but it is not recommended. As there is no suspension in the chassis the pneumatic coupling of the bodywork still garantees a smooth ride. A souped up engine needs lots of extra dials and gages and stuff to keep track of all the added systems, no pair-a-dice by the dashboard light but a trofee pair of worn out pistons, behind the steering wheel there is also a siringe mounted to the dash, I still don't know what's in it, but knowing the driver it's probably heroin. Big supercharger added. Extra cooling for the engine Just like a real dragster it can lock the frontwheels (pneumatic breaks) to do a tire warming burnout in place, with 4L motors driving the rear wheels only doing a burnout, drifting and doughnuts are no problem at all as long there is a flat surface to ride on (no carpet), there is also a magnetic reedswitch wich engages the 6 orange blinking LED's as a warning when the frontwheel lock is engaged. The (pneumatic) break pedal is actaully working, though you would have to push it a 100 times to engage the breaks, in the rear there is a electrical pneumatic pump keeping pressure on the system, but when electricity is down it can still be manually pressured by the breakpedal. It maxes out the testbench in 5 seconds... So dragsters are highly illegal, don't use standart engines and chassis in general, anything goes as long as it's fast, so I think I did a perfect rendition of a dragified Lego set with this build. More pics here;
  15. Hi everyone, This is my first MOC to be published here on the forum: a small/compact rally hatchback. It is not a copy of an existing car, but the front is inspired by modern Audi's. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Fast drivetrain Lots of torque (the car must be able to drive on tarmac, dirt and sand) An average scale of 1:12.5 Front and rear independent suspension Front and rear PF lights Servo steering with small turning radius Buwizz 2.0 to increase performance (located under the bonnet for better weightdistribution and easy acces) A light and rigid chassis Openable doors and bonnet A realistic/clean interior (no visible moters/wires/chassis beams) A gapless body, using rather pannels than beams Drift (on sand) It contains 100% LEGO parts (excpet BuWizz) with a total of 1178 parts. I am very happy with the result. Here are some pictures The Buwizz with easy acces... Clean interior... Openable glovebox... Rear suspension... Front suspension... The underside shows the chassis, wires and motors... Annd finally a little video to demonstrate the fucntions and the oudoor performance. Building instructions/partslist: Hope you like it, comments, criticism and questions are welcome!
  16. Hi! Two years ago, I had made a Gymkhana with Ken Block’s Ford Fiesta. It drifted well, but I wanted to do better using the BuWizz. So I decided to make a better chassis and pair it with the bodywork of the world’s best rally driver’s car : Sébastien loeb’s DS3! This new chassis‘ works in the same way as the old version, but it’s better at drifting. First of all, a reminder of how it works: When turning, the adherence at the rear axle is decreased. This is due to the caster angle of the front axle which lifts the rear interior wheel. (Like a karting il me semble qu’on dit a go-kart mais il faut vérifier!!) So, what changes with this new chassis compared to the old version? The caster angle is the same, but the swerve front wheels relative to their pivot point is decreased (?). The rigidity has been decreased, and the transmission has been upgraded. Now, it has less friction. The consequence is that the difference of adherence at the rear axle is smoother when turning, so drifting is more realistic. Furthermore, there is the amazing BuWizz power! However, the car isn’t easier to handle. (It takes a lot of time to control it perfectly) This car has got stickers, and building instructions! Both have been made by Thorsten Spelz, so thanks to him! Click here And now, the Gymkhana!
  17. Hey everyone! Today I'm very excited to finally share with you my new MOC, after 1 month of work on it. I really wanted to see what would happen if I made a car without a WIP topic, like how @Charbel released his superb Volcano RS Supercar. So it all started back when I got inspiration from @Madoca 1977's Corvette and Supercar, and @Fosapifi's Porsche Spyder. I wanted to make a car around that scale. My other main goal was a robust chassis. So it began with a small independent front suspension, then a chassis with that, a rear live axle, mini engine, and 2-speed gearbox. Soon a body was created and I thought I was almost done. But then there was trouble. I realized the serious problem, the engine's crankshaft, when a section was sticking out the lowest, pushed on the axle that drove the gears that drove the wheels. This suspension was used. When it hit that axle it bounced, creating a rough ride all the time. So I replaced that with a solid diff, and it was smooth sailing, err, building, from there. So here we are. I am also happy to share this because I managed to get some pictures I am very proud of, with a very-close-to-white background! The final model features front suspension, a working mini V8 engine based off this, rear differential, 2-speed gearbox, HoG steering, adjustable spoiler, and a robust chassis. Even though the model looks small and has a light, aggressive bodywork, its dense chassis helps to give it a total of 855 pieces (contrary to the video.) Instructions: Rebricmable: Tons More pictures: Enjoy! With the wheel arches removed, it looks like a Toyota AE86 drift car, probably due to the square shape. Outdoor pics: Chassis: Please tell me what you think of it! Have a great day!
  18. So finally I'm starting a new project, I've had a mini dark age for the past few months so its really nice to be back. I've always been an Audi guy and I really wanted to build a sports car that no one else has, so I chose a TT. To make it more interesting, I'm going with a rear wheel drive LPE powered drifting TT. Current specifications: - V2 LPE for propulsion - Servo for steering - No differential - No suspension And of course its going to be red with black accents. I also did some quick Photoshop just to see what it could look like in dark blue. Progress will be quite slow for the next few weeks as I have final exams coming up.
  19. Hello people of EB, Let me share my drift machine with you. It is the result of a long experiment in which I've been trying to figure out the recipe for the ultimate drifting experience. But let's start at the beginning: My first attempt was a RWD car as we all picture a drift car should be. And however it was capable to make doughnuts I was missing the proper handling, where coming out from an arc can be predicted, or even intended. Sadly I did not make a video about the first version, but drove me to the conclusion that the handling can be improved by extending the wheelbase. So the next version I've built longer and it verified my assumption, the handling has improved, yet came nowhere close to the level I've aimed. Lucky for us I made a video at this stage: This car had a fairly simple build, using only 1 Rc buggy motor coonected directly to the rear differential, and a servo for steering. As power souce I've been using RC LiPo's (500mAh 25C). I know that divides the community not being approved by the church, but since I discovered it's pro's I'm addicted to them. Small size, low weight, yet capable to feed the buggy motor(s) trough Sbrick. This version of the car was around 720 gramms and I think this is a very friendly number on the scale in therms of a fast and agile vehicle. The Rc wheels I'm using on it have rubber tyres, but thanks to the low weight it could spin them without any additional preparation. Using them though is my personal obsession due to their geometry and aesthetics, has nothing to do with drifting abilities. Still I was missing the elongated arcs and the predictible behaviour. The only bottleneck I had was the controll. Touchscreen controlers drive my mad, not giving any physical sense about what am I doing. Imurvai's application for game controllers was like an oasis in the touchscreen desert for me. (God bless him). But even the physical controller couldn't give me that smooth controll on throttle what I wanted to keep the wheelspin on the border of loosing or keeping the traction. (does this make sense to you?) God I was missing the throttlecurve from my heli controller. :-) So a different approach needed and the idea came that 4 wheel drive should give me the last piece of the puzzle. In my theory the driven front wheels are pulling the vehicle in the choosen direction, while I have to admit this changes the overall behaviour too. So I've built the 4x4 version of that estate car: And after a few modification and addition I've achived the controlled skiding I was looking for. All wheels being driven the traction had to be lowered as 1 buggy motor/axle wasn't enough to make the tyres spin. Instead of using plastic wheels I 've picked my favorite tool: insulation tape. And here is why: Plastic wheels have so low friction on wood like driving on ice. I was gonna loose all the handling I was working for. The tape in the other hand gives considerably more friction/traction even if all the tyre is covered. But it isn't. By carefully choosing the right width of the tape let us fine tune the traction giving the ability to change between oversteer and understeer on demand, or deciding how "happy" the tail of the car we want it to be. On more benefit of the tape on the front wheels: If ther is a caster on the front, when it turns to any direction the wheels are tilting too, touching the floor only with their edge. As the edge is not covered by tape, so the rubber comes to contact, giving more traction when changing direction. And when the steering goes straight the traction lowered to the amount we set up by the tape so the wheels can skid and spin. And there is a subjective reason as well: plastic wheels are noise too. To improve agility I needed a handbrake too. The video gives a straight-forward explanation about it, I think it is qiute self explanatory stuff. The setup has enough power to stall the buggy motor. While I admit it's not "healty for the all parts, we have to accept: Every magic comes with a price. 4 motors and 4 LED's required 2 Sbrick to controll them. I think that is it so far. If I forgot to cover something, please feel free to ask about it, but let me point out I can't do much about being non purist. This is about engineering for me, not about religion. So anything regarding this subject will be answered by 1 minute of silence There are more pics in the Flickr gallery: Hope it was usefull for future drift projects Your comments are wellcome Attika Ps: Part of this subject I've posted the other day in an old topic started by rm8 in 2012. It what was digged up by a new member and finding that topic on first page made me share my fresh experiences without checking the date on the question. Hereby I apologise doing silly things like that.
  20. As a last goodbye to 2016, I present this small red car. It is not really built to be particularly good looking (I used a wire bodywork to have a low weight) or to have a particular high speed. But what it does, is put a smile on your face. Technics are kept simple, there's an RC buggy motor next to a PF lipo batterybox in the middle, a PF medium steering motor before the front axle and an IR V2 receiver to enable 1 metre of infrared range when going outside. Please Lego... Please... do something about it. The frustration and anger about this appalling range is powering companies like S-brick. And that's why my future cars are having an S-brick, leaving this model as one of my last PF IR remote controlleds MOCs... We're making a fun car, right? So there is a silly spoiler and huge rear tires. By the way, these wide tires provide excellent traction in dry conditions, which is important for low-weight cars like this. The interior had to be sacrificed to have a low position for the drive motor and battery box. Because of this measure, the handling was quite good, but made much worse by the slow PF IR remote. In the end, of course there is the video: The longer story can be read on MOCpages and better photos are on Brickshelf. Have a nice 2017!
  21. Hi there guys! I'm glad to introduce you my ford fiesta wrc wich has the following features: - New shock absorbers design - Macpherson suspensions strut - Lockable differential - Personalized vinyls - 2 RC motors - Motors saving differential My goal for this car was only one: DRIFT then i started thinking: "what car is known for drifts?" and the answer was only one THE KEN BLOCK'S CAR !!! So i started building this one trying to replicate those colors...then i wasn't so satisfied so i decided to print my own stickers.... I created a template (wich im gonna share soon) to paint vinyls on new panels and i'd say that im pretty happy now :) Let's talk about performances now: even if it weighs 860g it's still fast....doesn't have an amazing acceleration anymore but it still drifts on smooth surfaces expecially when the wheels lose some grip by collecting dust and it's pretty funny to drive! About the chassis: it's very simple and the weight is well distributed, to cause the most loss of grip to the rear wheels, by placing a battery in the front of the car... As every motor has its own battery and reciver i added a differential inbetween the two know, sometimes recivers can lose signal and i didn't want to get my motors damaged There's another differential that connects the wheels wich can be locked to cause narrower drifts... The new shock absorbers design (for those who didn't see one of my last posts where i was talking about that) is really simple....and even if i didn't use the spring taken from the lego one the dimensions are the same, so 100% purists can use it as well I hope you like it! stickers aviable here http://p-lego.blogsp...roduce-you.html they're in the A4 format so you just need to print the file above as it is (obviusly download the full res one by clicking to enlarge the picture ^^)
  22. Hi guys! Today I finished another lowwww project along with Drift Van and Subaru Forester. Now it's Slammed JDM pickup. At this time, I was inspired to build a pickup Nissan Datsun (Nissan Hardbody) mid-90's in D21 body The model is based on rear-wheel drive chassis with independent suspension front and rear axle. Buggy motor is responsible for the nimble movements of pickup space, and servo motor helps to dodge all of a sudden in the way of obstacles. Controlled all so beloved by me, SBrick, and electrician feeds LiPo pack. With the receiver from LEGO model is unlikely to make friends, because he would kill her at first dumb on turn - very high speed, but not so on the reliability front end :) The design of the rear suspension allows the use of one buggy motor and a pair of L-Motors, which are also good model piles, given that the pickup weight is 750 grams. More photos you can find on my blog and my flickr
  23. Hello everyone! I want to present you my MOC - the "Huntsman" drift car. Characteristics: Length - 28 cm Height - 9,7 cm Width - 14,7 cm 1 Servo-motor for steering, 2 L-motors for driving, 1 Small battery box. Thank you for attention!
  24. Hello all! Today I’d like to present my new drift car. The main features are: independent front and rear steering, independent front and rear wheels drive. The model is stylized as a legendary Soviet car – VAZ-2101 (FIAT 124). Total length – 47 cm, total weight – 1120 g. Drift video: And a few photos: Instructions: Thanks for watching!
  25. Hi everyone! Today we will focus on the most prominent Japanese automobile subcultures united in a single project - is primarily Drift and Bosozoku and combined them nimble Drift Van style Lego Technic running SBrick. But first things first. So, as the drift, then it is clear, I think most people are familiar with this type of racing, which originated in Japan in the 60s of the last century, but in recent decades gained momentum and sickly popularity around the world. But on bosozoku perhaps focus more. drifting Bosozoku: rebellious tuning "You will be outraged or surprised laugh. This unusual style will not leave you indifferent." bosozoku Bosozoku now - this is the fancy, colorful and absurd style tuning. Multimeter exhaust pipes of different colors and shapes made by the front bumper, radiator, distinguished by the meter skirts - it's all about him. Especially important for bosozoku have tailpipes. They may take the form of lightning, stars, or simply face up - the main thing as high as possible above the roof of the machine. Colors are often inspired by the sports cars 80s. Also on these cars can often be seen learned from under the hood oil radiators. The third of the "pillars" of the style - the extended wheel arches and very wide wheels with narrow tires. However, for me the primary cause of construction Drift Van served no information about the style of tuning bosozoku, but primarily drift since I once came across a video where the usual family minivan Toyota Hiace with installed engine 2JZ-GTE burned rubber and drift better than what some Silvia, or AE86, mark/chaser and other JDM cars. Toyota Hiace Externally, the model is a minivan-style bosozoku, he served as the prototype of the fifth-generation Toyota Hiace with extended arches of the body, and a huge roof spoiler and wheels with wide tires in the ala Stance superstretch - all to match the style. In front is a huge intercooler, installed in the cockpit roll cage and only one pilot's seat. The project is based on a new chassis with direct drive motor buggies. The highlight of the project was SBrick. I have no hesitation to say that it is a revolution in the world of Lego, and highly recommend Lego Group to launch this device in the series. In comparison with the IR receiver - is the earth and sky. From the experience of using a buggy engines running IR receivers say that management is very unstable, even in an apartment, with a minimum of sunlight (which is a strong hindrance to the infrared receivers). When the model is carried at high speed and it is necessary to turn or stop - very important quick response to steering, which the original Lego Receivers can not provide. As a result - a pair of torn pieces from the collision with an obstacle, at best. With SBrick things are much different. First, it has the ability to soft start the motor connected - whether servo motor, motor buggy, M, L or XL - it does not matter. Buggy engine can now drive slowly! It is important. Secondly, one SBrick replaces two conventional receiver because 4 ports - in models with 3-4 motorized functions - is a huge plus in terms of saving space. Thirdly, SBrick works in another wavelength range, which means that now there is no need to lift up the receiver as high as possible, or in a car, for example, to do for him a special hole in the roof, so that the model could then go to the control. Thus, SBrick can drown somewhere in the bowels of the model so that no one will notice. But there SBrick one clear, in my view, the lack of - software. Namely, the lack of support for, let's say, not yet old, but not new operating systems. With Apple - no problem, On Windows - not tried, but with Android has school in the form that the program supports the version of Android 4.3 or higher. At the same time on Android, not all devices are able to upgrade to 4.3, some decided to stay at 4.2.2 and no more. So when you buy, make sure that your device meets this parameter. General Specifications Drift Van: Weight - 820 gram Length / width / height - 47/19/17 (370/151/135) Stud (mm) Number of pieces - 790 pieces. Drive - rear-wheel Electrics: Buggy motor - movement; Servo motor - steering SBrick or IR V2 receiver - remote control. Small battery box