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Found 20 results

  1. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  2. Hi everyone, perhabs some of you remember my first post on eb: Audi rally car. Soon after I posted it, I realised that I didn't like it enough. Therefore I decided to create a brand new version with roughly the same DNA. The main goals for the new version were to look better and drive better compared to the old one. To improve the looks, I went for a classic collor scheme: red body and black roof. I also downsized the width (17 stud compared to 18) and the wheelbase (two studs shorter). To get some more contrast, I put blue racing stripes on the seats. Making the car smaller meant I couldn't use some tricks used in the old one, such as BuWizz inbetween the front wheels. It is now located underneath the trim. To improve driving, I decided to use two Buggy motors rather than one and put them as low as possible in the chassis for the best COG. The gear ratio is the same as before: 1:1. The steering is also much smoother and has almost no backlash. Due to these improvements the car drifts WAY better then the old one. It even does donuts. Here you can see some pictures of the drivetrain and rear suspension. Due to the insane power from two buggy motors, gears often slipped during the development. A simple but effective solution I came up with was to use knop gears rather than 12t bevel gears to transfer the power to the rear wheels. The car features, like the old one, front and rear suspension, but it is a very different setup. The front now uses traditional suspension arms and the rear is a liveaxle without diff. The doors and bonnet can be opened manually. Because there is no battery under the bonnet, there was a bit of space for a fake V6 engine made out of knop gears. More pictures can be found here: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/T_Antonie/random/audi-rs1 In case you think that the car is slow, that is due to the fact that I am a NOOB driver. In all the video clips BuWizz was in normal mode. You can watch the video presentation here: I'd love to know your thoughts and critics or other feedback are highly appreciated too.
  3. Aircraft ain't my thing, dumb ideas are Basically rear end was a concept from 2016, rebuilt it in october last year as I wanted to test whether a counterweight placed in the rear of a vehicle would help with "drifting". Of course, this was paired with the best lego motors (2x mythical buggy motors), BuWizz (1.0 ) and not the grippiest floor tiles, producing a very fun experience (donuts, 180° turns, and if lucky, something resembling a drift). The steering department was done with a M-motor RTC-ed by a hockey spring as always. Controlled using the beta BuWizz app, which was a nice experience and luckily suffered a lot less connection issues than the older counterpart. Bodywork. Tough department. Looking back at it, could've done a better job on the front, but wanted to try something different to classic bionicle eyes. Was able to place 2 Technic figures inside tho. The video was thrown together today (3 months after finishing ) so as to finally dissasemble this thing. Any additional pics will be in the same Brickshelf folder. INSTRUCTIONS Download here (302.9MB) And the mandatory belly shot: Thanks for reading!
  4. Hello there. A spontaneous MOC: Drift Buggy - 2 L paired for 2 rear WD - Servo for steering - Buwizz Weight: 950g. Dimensions: 32cm long x 23cm wide x 14cm height. Wanted to build a quick medium sized vehicle with 62 mm wheels, but since I had rc third party tires, decided to try them on - and wasn't dissapointed. Gear ratio is 1:1. Some photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/gate/gate-lego-technic/drift-buggy-2wd Perfect donut timer 2:04 in the video
  5. So there it is, my 'illegal' entry to AMS2, wich is illegal because it uses a rechargeable (LiPo) battery instead of the Lego 6xAA batteryboxes wich are drained very fast, expensive and bad for the enviroment, so I don't use them, purist rules are ok untill they stop making logical sense and become outings of total OCD only. Eat Dust ! Big enigines need big tailpipes. Pneumatic lifting of the bodywork to acces tech area, it can also ride in this position but it is not recommended. As there is no suspension in the chassis the pneumatic coupling of the bodywork still garantees a smooth ride. A souped up engine needs lots of extra dials and gages and stuff to keep track of all the added systems, no pair-a-dice by the dashboard light but a trofee pair of worn out pistons, behind the steering wheel there is also a siringe mounted to the dash, I still don't know what's in it, but knowing the driver it's probably heroin. Big supercharger added. Extra cooling for the engine Just like a real dragster it can lock the frontwheels (pneumatic breaks) to do a tire warming burnout in place, with 4L motors driving the rear wheels only doing a burnout, drifting and doughnuts are no problem at all as long there is a flat surface to ride on (no carpet), there is also a magnetic reedswitch wich engages the 6 orange blinking LED's as a warning when the frontwheel lock is engaged. The (pneumatic) break pedal is actaully working, though you would have to push it a 100 times to engage the breaks, in the rear there is a electrical pneumatic pump keeping pressure on the system, but when electricity is down it can still be manually pressured by the breakpedal. It maxes out the testbench in 5 seconds... So dragsters are highly illegal, don't use standart engines and chassis in general, anything goes as long as it's fast, so I think I did a perfect rendition of a dragified Lego set with this build. More pics here; https://bricksafe.com/pages/Permo/crazer-
  6. Hi everyone, This is my first MOC to be published here on the forum: a small/compact rally hatchback. It is not a copy of an existing car, but the front is inspired by modern Audi's. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Fast drivetrain Lots of torque (the car must be able to drive on tarmac, dirt and sand) An average scale of 1:12.5 Front and rear independent suspension Front and rear PF lights Servo steering with small turning radius Buwizz 2.0 to increase performance (located under the bonnet for better weightdistribution and easy acces) A light and rigid chassis Openable doors and bonnet A realistic/clean interior (no visible moters/wires/chassis beams) A gapless body, using rather pannels than beams Drift (on sand) It contains 100% LEGO parts (excpet BuWizz) with a total of 1178 parts. I am very happy with the result. Here are some pictures The Buwizz with easy acces... Clean interior... Openable glovebox... Rear suspension... Front suspension... The underside shows the chassis, wires and motors... Annd finally a little video to demonstrate the fucntions and the oudoor performance. Building instructions/partslist: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-14441/T-Lego/technic-rc-audi-rally-car-with-buwizz-20/#comments Hope you like it, comments, criticism and questions are welcome!
  7. Hi! Two years ago, I had made a Gymkhana with Ken Block’s Ford Fiesta. It drifted well, but I wanted to do better using the BuWizz. So I decided to make a better chassis and pair it with the bodywork of the world’s best rally driver’s car : Sébastien loeb’s DS3! This new chassis‘ works in the same way as the old version, but it’s better at drifting. First of all, a reminder of how it works: When turning, the adherence at the rear axle is decreased. This is due to the caster angle of the front axle which lifts the rear interior wheel. (Like a karting il me semble qu’on dit a go-kart mais il faut vérifier!!) So, what changes with this new chassis compared to the old version? The caster angle is the same, but the swerve front wheels relative to their pivot point is decreased (?). The rigidity has been decreased, and the transmission has been upgraded. Now, it has less friction. The consequence is that the difference of adherence at the rear axle is smoother when turning, so drifting is more realistic. Furthermore, there is the amazing BuWizz power! However, the car isn’t easier to handle. (It takes a lot of time to control it perfectly) This car has got stickers, and building instructions! Both have been made by Thorsten Spelz, so thanks to him! Click here And now, the Gymkhana!
  8. Offroadcreat1ons

    [MOC] Mid-Engine Drift Car

    Hey everyone! Today I'm very excited to finally share with you my new MOC, after 1 month of work on it. I really wanted to see what would happen if I made a car without a WIP topic, like how @Charbel released his superb Volcano RS Supercar. So it all started back when I got inspiration from @Madoca 1977's Corvette and Supercar, and @Fosapifi's Porsche Spyder. I wanted to make a car around that scale. My other main goal was a robust chassis. So it began with a small independent front suspension, then a chassis with that, a rear live axle, mini engine, and 2-speed gearbox. Soon a body was created and I thought I was almost done. But then there was trouble. I realized the serious problem, the engine's crankshaft, when a section was sticking out the lowest, pushed on the axle that drove the gears that drove the wheels. This suspension was used. When it hit that axle it bounced, creating a rough ride all the time. So I replaced that with a solid diff, and it was smooth sailing, err, building, from there. So here we are. I am also happy to share this because I managed to get some pictures I am very proud of, with a very-close-to-white background! The final model features front suspension, a working mini V8 engine based off this, rear differential, 2-speed gearbox, HoG steering, adjustable spoiler, and a robust chassis. Even though the model looks small and has a light, aggressive bodywork, its dense chassis helps to give it a total of 855 pieces (contrary to the video.) Instructions: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Offroadcreations/mid-engine-sports-car/instructions Rebricmable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8791/offroadcreations/mid-engine-drift-car/#comments Tons More pictures: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Offroadcreations/mid-engine-sports-car Enjoy! With the wheel arches removed, it looks like a Toyota AE86 drift car, probably due to the square shape. Outdoor pics: Chassis: Please tell me what you think of it! Have a great day!
  9. So finally I'm starting a new project, I've had a mini dark age for the past few months so its really nice to be back. I've always been an Audi guy and I really wanted to build a sports car that no one else has, so I chose a TT. To make it more interesting, I'm going with a rear wheel drive LPE powered drifting TT. Current specifications: - V2 LPE for propulsion - Servo for steering - No differential - No suspension And of course its going to be red with black accents. I also did some quick Photoshop just to see what it could look like in dark blue. Progress will be quite slow for the next few weeks as I have final exams coming up.
  10. Hello people of EB, Let me share my drift machine with you. It is the result of a long experiment in which I've been trying to figure out the recipe for the ultimate drifting experience. But let's start at the beginning: My first attempt was a RWD car as we all picture a drift car should be. And however it was capable to make doughnuts I was missing the proper handling, where coming out from an arc can be predicted, or even intended. Sadly I did not make a video about the first version, but drove me to the conclusion that the handling can be improved by extending the wheelbase. So the next version I've built longer and it verified my assumption, the handling has improved, yet came nowhere close to the level I've aimed. Lucky for us I made a video at this stage: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/33446568771/in/album-72157678342432663/ This car had a fairly simple build, using only 1 Rc buggy motor coonected directly to the rear differential, and a servo for steering. As power souce I've been using RC LiPo's (500mAh 25C). I know that divides the community not being approved by the church, but since I discovered it's pro's I'm addicted to them. Small size, low weight, yet capable to feed the buggy motor(s) trough Sbrick. This version of the car was around 720 gramms and I think this is a very friendly number on the scale in therms of a fast and agile vehicle. The Rc wheels I'm using on it have rubber tyres, but thanks to the low weight it could spin them without any additional preparation. Using them though is my personal obsession due to their geometry and aesthetics, has nothing to do with drifting abilities. Still I was missing the elongated arcs and the predictible behaviour. The only bottleneck I had was the controll. Touchscreen controlers drive my mad, not giving any physical sense about what am I doing. Imurvai's application for game controllers was like an oasis in the touchscreen desert for me. (God bless him). But even the physical controller couldn't give me that smooth controll on throttle what I wanted to keep the wheelspin on the border of loosing or keeping the traction. (does this make sense to you?) God I was missing the throttlecurve from my heli controller. :-) So a different approach needed and the idea came that 4 wheel drive should give me the last piece of the puzzle. In my theory the driven front wheels are pulling the vehicle in the choosen direction, while I have to admit this changes the overall behaviour too. So I've built the 4x4 version of that estate car: And after a few modification and addition I've achived the controlled skiding I was looking for. All wheels being driven the traction had to be lowered as 1 buggy motor/axle wasn't enough to make the tyres spin. Instead of using plastic wheels I 've picked my favorite tool: insulation tape. And here is why: Plastic wheels have so low friction on wood like driving on ice. I was gonna loose all the handling I was working for. The tape in the other hand gives considerably more friction/traction even if all the tyre is covered. But it isn't. By carefully choosing the right width of the tape let us fine tune the traction giving the ability to change between oversteer and understeer on demand, or deciding how "happy" the tail of the car we want it to be. On more benefit of the tape on the front wheels: If ther is a caster on the front, when it turns to any direction the wheels are tilting too, touching the floor only with their edge. As the edge is not covered by tape, so the rubber comes to contact, giving more traction when changing direction. And when the steering goes straight the traction lowered to the amount we set up by the tape so the wheels can skid and spin. And there is a subjective reason as well: plastic wheels are noise too. To improve agility I needed a handbrake too. The video gives a straight-forward explanation about it, I think it is qiute self explanatory stuff. The setup has enough power to stall the buggy motor. While I admit it's not "healty for the all parts, we have to accept: Every magic comes with a price. 4 motors and 4 LED's required 2 Sbrick to controll them. I think that is it so far. If I forgot to cover something, please feel free to ask about it, but let me point out I can't do much about being non purist. This is about engineering for me, not about religion. So anything regarding this subject will be answered by 1 minute of silence There are more pics in the Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/albums/72157678342432663 Hope it was usefull for future drift projects Your comments are wellcome Attika Ps: Part of this subject I've posted the other day in an old topic started by rm8 in 2012. It what was digged up by a new member and finding that topic on first page made me share my fresh experiences without checking the date on the question. Hereby I apologise doing silly things like that.
  11. As a last goodbye to 2016, I present this small red car. It is not really built to be particularly good looking (I used a wire bodywork to have a low weight) or to have a particular high speed. But what it does, is put a smile on your face. Technics are kept simple, there's an RC buggy motor next to a PF lipo batterybox in the middle, a PF medium steering motor before the front axle and an IR V2 receiver to enable 1 metre of infrared range when going outside. Please Lego... Please... do something about it. The frustration and anger about this appalling range is powering companies like S-brick. And that's why my future cars are having an S-brick, leaving this model as one of my last PF IR remote controlleds MOCs... We're making a fun car, right? So there is a silly spoiler and huge rear tires. By the way, these wide tires provide excellent traction in dry conditions, which is important for low-weight cars like this. The interior had to be sacrificed to have a low position for the drive motor and battery box. Because of this measure, the handling was quite good, but made much worse by the slow PF IR remote. In the end, of course there is the video: The longer story can be read on MOCpages and better photos are on Brickshelf. Have a nice 2017!
  12. Hi there guys! I'm glad to introduce you my ford fiesta wrc wich has the following features: - New shock absorbers design - Macpherson suspensions strut - Lockable differential - Personalized vinyls - 2 RC motors - Motors saving differential My goal for this car was only one: DRIFT then i started thinking: "what car is known for drifts?" and the answer was only one THE KEN BLOCK'S CAR !!! So i started building this one trying to replicate those colors...then i wasn't so satisfied so i decided to print my own stickers.... I created a template (wich im gonna share soon) to paint vinyls on new panels and i'd say that im pretty happy now :) Let's talk about performances now: even if it weighs 860g it's still fast....doesn't have an amazing acceleration anymore but it still drifts on smooth surfaces expecially when the wheels lose some grip by collecting dust and it's pretty funny to drive! About the chassis: it's very simple and the weight is well distributed, to cause the most loss of grip to the rear wheels, by placing a battery in the front of the car... As every motor has its own battery and reciver i added a differential inbetween the two motors...you know, sometimes recivers can lose signal and i didn't want to get my motors damaged There's another differential that connects the wheels wich can be locked to cause narrower drifts... The new shock absorbers design (for those who didn't see one of my last posts where i was talking about that) is really simple....and even if i didn't use the spring taken from the lego one the dimensions are the same, so 100% purists can use it as well I hope you like it! stickers aviable here http://p-lego.blogsp...roduce-you.html they're in the A4 format so you just need to print the file above as it is (obviusly download the full res one by clicking to enlarge the picture ^^)
  13. Hi guys! Today I finished another lowwww project along with Drift Van and Subaru Forester. Now it's Slammed JDM pickup. At this time, I was inspired to build a pickup Nissan Datsun (Nissan Hardbody) mid-90's in D21 body The model is based on rear-wheel drive chassis with independent suspension front and rear axle. Buggy motor is responsible for the nimble movements of pickup space, and servo motor helps to dodge all of a sudden in the way of obstacles. Controlled all so beloved by me, SBrick, and electrician feeds LiPo pack. With the receiver from LEGO model is unlikely to make friends, because he would kill her at first dumb on turn - very high speed, but not so on the reliability front end :) The design of the rear suspension allows the use of one buggy motor and a pair of L-Motors, which are also good model piles, given that the pickup weight is 750 grams. More photos you can find on my blog and my flickr
  14. Hello everyone! I want to present you my MOC - the "Huntsman" drift car. Characteristics: Length - 28 cm Height - 9,7 cm Width - 14,7 cm 1 Servo-motor for steering, 2 L-motors for driving, 1 Small battery box. Thank you for attention!
  15. Hello all! Today I’d like to present my new drift car. The main features are: independent front and rear steering, independent front and rear wheels drive. The model is stylized as a legendary Soviet car – VAZ-2101 (FIAT 124). Total length – 47 cm, total weight – 1120 g. Drift video: And a few photos: Instructions: Thanks for watching!
  16. filsawgood

    [MOC] Drift Van

    Hi everyone! Today we will focus on the most prominent Japanese automobile subcultures united in a single project - is primarily Drift and Bosozoku and combined them nimble Drift Van style Lego Technic running SBrick. But first things first. So, as the drift, then it is clear, I think most people are familiar with this type of racing, which originated in Japan in the 60s of the last century, but in recent decades gained momentum and sickly popularity around the world. But on bosozoku perhaps focus more. drifting Bosozoku: rebellious tuning "You will be outraged or surprised laugh. This unusual style will not leave you indifferent." bosozoku Bosozoku now - this is the fancy, colorful and absurd style tuning. Multimeter exhaust pipes of different colors and shapes made by the front bumper, radiator, distinguished by the meter skirts - it's all about him. Especially important for bosozoku have tailpipes. They may take the form of lightning, stars, or simply face up - the main thing as high as possible above the roof of the machine. Colors are often inspired by the sports cars 80s. Also on these cars can often be seen learned from under the hood oil radiators. The third of the "pillars" of the style - the extended wheel arches and very wide wheels with narrow tires. However, for me the primary cause of construction Drift Van served no information about the style of tuning bosozoku, but primarily drift since I once came across a video where the usual family minivan Toyota Hiace with installed engine 2JZ-GTE burned rubber and drift better than what some Silvia, or AE86, mark/chaser and other JDM cars. Toyota Hiace Externally, the model is a minivan-style bosozoku, he served as the prototype of the fifth-generation Toyota Hiace with extended arches of the body, and a huge roof spoiler and wheels with wide tires in the ala Stance superstretch - all to match the style. In front is a huge intercooler, installed in the cockpit roll cage and only one pilot's seat. The project is based on a new chassis with direct drive motor buggies. The highlight of the project was SBrick. I have no hesitation to say that it is a revolution in the world of Lego, and highly recommend Lego Group to launch this device in the series. In comparison with the IR receiver - is the earth and sky. From the experience of using a buggy engines running IR receivers say that management is very unstable, even in an apartment, with a minimum of sunlight (which is a strong hindrance to the infrared receivers). When the model is carried at high speed and it is necessary to turn or stop - very important quick response to steering, which the original Lego Receivers can not provide. As a result - a pair of torn pieces from the collision with an obstacle, at best. With SBrick things are much different. First, it has the ability to soft start the motor connected - whether servo motor, motor buggy, M, L or XL - it does not matter. Buggy engine can now drive slowly! It is important. Secondly, one SBrick replaces two conventional receiver because 4 ports - in models with 3-4 motorized functions - is a huge plus in terms of saving space. Thirdly, SBrick works in another wavelength range, which means that now there is no need to lift up the receiver as high as possible, or in a car, for example, to do for him a special hole in the roof, so that the model could then go to the control. Thus, SBrick can drown somewhere in the bowels of the model so that no one will notice. But there SBrick one clear, in my view, the lack of - software. Namely, the lack of support for, let's say, not yet old, but not new operating systems. With Apple - no problem, On Windows - not tried, but with Android has school in the form that the program supports the version of Android 4.3 or higher. At the same time on Android, not all devices are able to upgrade to 4.3, some decided to stay at 4.2.2 and no more. So when you buy, make sure that your device meets this parameter. General Specifications Drift Van: Weight - 820 gram Length / width / height - 47/19/17 (370/151/135) Stud (mm) Number of pieces - 790 pieces. Drive - rear-wheel Electrics: Buggy motor - movement; Servo motor - steering SBrick or IR V2 receiver - remote control. Small battery box
  17. Hello fellow builders :) In the meanwhile im working to get some money to get the nissan pickup finished, i needed something funny to play with in the spare time when the PC is rendering :P so I decided to build a quad with tubolar frame that i could make drift around my apartment it turned out to be pretty fast and with enough torque to face some dirt too! i still need to decide about how to make the body but id like to build something like this I hope you'll like it :)
  18. I was really happy to know that 8369 and 8675 sets are somewhat compatible with Technic. A lot of time passed since I acquired a copy while thinking what can I build around it. Yes, build and test it! Youtube videos show these models are very powerful and probably are the fastest LEGO ever. So there was LitLUG & LatLUG meeting where you normally need to bring something with yourself to show off . So there was a deadline and all of a sudden interesting idea came to my mind. Also there was a quite big area, just about right for the model to run - no way I would miss such opportunity! There's just no place at home for such beast. I used default 8369 as a base to build my MOC, there is a standard front suspension with adjustable shock absorber, but the back has no suspension. Since I wanted to build a drifting car and there was a very smooth floor - basically there was no need for rear suspension at all. Model is quite heavy (2Kg) - it is all because of the base as the outer shell doesn't add much, but weight is not an issue. Car is drive-able on the lowest gear only, when using other two it still can go straight, but just drifts when trying to make a turn while still on a smooth surface. The power. I had two batteries, and made sure they both are charged - just to have a lot of fun during the event! However it turned out I had just 5 minutes with each battery, that's 10 minutes. Not much to have fun , looks like batteries are quite old and lost their capacity. Sorry for the lack of photos (I rarely have access to proper camera). Below you can see the only picture taken while on event (he-he, you won't find me on this photo): 13_12_2014_RJTC-71 by latlug_lv As you may notice RDR01 has proper test racing driver - The Stig You can check how models drift on this very short video, while batteries were still alive. I hope to share more photos soon, including a swap with black tires. I wonder how RDR01 would look with red tires as well...
  19. Renamed99

    [HELP] Drift Car

    Hello, I started building new MOC i wanned it to be a drift car. I was done building a chassis,but when I tested it, it didn't drift only drove normal. what I did to my car: put duck tape on rear wheels use one and two xl motors tried to gear down to 40:8(1xl motor) | 20:12 (2xl motors) rear wheels spins faster than front front wheels with diff
  20. Hi! I want to present you my new creation. Lego technic Drift Custom. Some elements have been borrowed from my previous model WRX (http://www.eurobrick...topic=96003&hl=) Technical characteristics: Buggy motor Servo motor Small batery box Rear wheel drive Detail engine Rollcage Exhaust Video on YouTube: