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Found 23 results

  1. Hi All! Often a "reader", now a "poster", i´ve got a problem i cant fully wrap my head around. I try to keep a steering axle straight while going through a pivoting point or turntable. The axle should rotate with the pivot (eg in the picture below the yellow bricks should always align with the grey liftarms even if the liftarms are at 90 degrees of each other) but i want to rotate it manually on one side, with the rotation + offset of the pivot on the other side. Like the axle itself would have been twisted. The furthest ive got with this is pictured below and works as long there is no friction on the left output. I want both sides to rotate at the same time, but if you rotate the pivot/turntable then it should add just an offset "within" the axle. I dont know if this is actually possible or how to split the axle in two, add the pivot rotation to one part and then add both rotation together.
  2. (Sorry for mistakes (I'm not from Britain / America)) I was thinking about LSD (Limited Slip Differential) in lego. Because all I saw yet were just differentials with locking mechanism that engages after few turns of axle. And only thing it was limitting was main function of differential. So I came out with this solution - I know it isn't great, but it is very simple and compact (actually you add one rubber band inside differential (under spider gear)). What that does ? - When axles want to spin at different speeds (while cornering) more power is required (so you lose some speed if you don't have powferful motor) but, if one wheel lose traction the other one gets more power (compared to open differential) and you can also set how much additional friction you wat (by adding different number of rubber bands inside). Here is one picture of it : https://imgur.com/a/JTjgdBn I just want to know what do you think about it, and if there is possibility to create a real LSD in lego.
  3. Hello, I've been building with lego technic for a couple of years, but found myself never having the right pieces for my builds. I recently bought a second-hand lego set with some nice wheels (8386). So I could finally start building some bigger and cooler cars. I started with my first supercar this week and am having trouble with the rear axle. I am using the method you see in this picture (https://ibb.co/ciYnN5) with 2 separate axles. The problem is that I want to use a differential, but can't figure out how that would work with this. Does anyone have a solution for this, or does anyone have a different, stable (compact) method for this? Any rear axle that has suspension is welcome. I would appreciate it to see more ideas from you. One more thing to keep in mind is that I only have the type of universal joints you see in the picture (https://ibb.co/ciYnN5). I don't have any other. Thanks in advance ;)
  4. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  5. shuoshuoliuliu

    6x6 truck VS

    just made a truck similar with Mr. Madoca's new moc work same function on differencial lock and 2 speed gearbox,but 6x6 -Weight: g -2 XL motors for propulsion,1 XL for 1st axle,1XL for 2nd、3rd axle -2 Servo motor for steering,1st & 3rd axle -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential,1st axle - 2nd、3rd axle -Portal axles for 1st、3rd axle in order to make a powerful crawler, I need different rotating speed of front and rear axle. For the reliability, I not use the weak center differential. I design 2 seperate XL motors for 1st axle and 2nd+3rd axle. But I add a lock, to lock the 2 XL motors together when necessary. That means there are 2x 2speed gearbox + 1 lock. And to make sure the enough power, I add 2 battery boxs.
  6. TechnicRCRacer

    Locking Differential?

    Hi, I am seeing more and more locking differentials on MOCs, but I do not see how they are useful. Does anyone know why?
  7. Hello everyone, I have many old sets which are using this differential http://rebrickable.com/parts/6573 and as you can see, you can easily create differential lock using part http://rebrickable.com/parts/6539. But I was wondering - is there any official set which actually uses this parts combination?
  8. While playing around with the small turntable, I realised it can also be used to make a strong open differential, as follows (the red part of the differential need not be present, depending on usage): Top view : Side View : (lxf) I'll be using this as the center differential for my "Yet Another Supercar (Gen II)" . Another good place to use this is in mechanisms that uses those inner gears of a differential heavily - e.g. automatic transmissions that rely on a differential to detect overwhelming torque.
  9. After a little tinkering, I managed to create this self-locking differential. It locks when the car goes straight and unlocks when turning: A set of 12t gears are connected to the steering rack. When the rack is in the middle (and the car going straight), the two halfshafts are coupled together, locking the differential. When the rack moves to the left or right to steer the car, the 12t gears disengage with the 20t gears and let the differential act like an open diff: The main downsides I see with this setup are that the differential may stay locked during wide turns with small rack movement and the width of the axle is increased. A standard independent suspension with a differential and 68.8x36 ZR wheels (the combination I usually use) is 25 studs wide; with this feature it increases to 27.
  10. Four wheel drive on Lego Technic cars with small wheels is hard to realize, as they become relatively too wide (which is ugly) and the ground clearance is also compromised. The problem then is: how to get the same grip back with only rear wheel drive? Then you need to push something 'extra' in the back of your already crammed, small nice-looking vehicle... This concept is an approach to keep this 'something extra' as small as possible while giving awesome and unexpected grip to the car. (At least, I was astonished by what it achieved!) Instead of typing a lot, I've put it all into a video with the theory of how it all works at the back of the video to let the 7 billion minus 1000 viewers that are not interested into more advanced Technic stuff experience how it works in practice on a 2 cm (that is: inchy) thick ice floor. As for the car, it is built from Power Functions spares as all my L-motors (which have quickly become the main workhorse for every Technic builder) are ehm... in use. That is why you find me using a geared up XL motor, which gave me memories of the good old times when the poor knob wheel parts splattered around. Sharp images of the car and mechanism explanation can be found on: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=564319. On MocPages (beware, there is a piece of code there that simply destroys anything such as image resolution on .png files...) http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/428881 Video: I finally have found PovRay so (with many thanks to all those who make that software) I can present a high-quality render:
  11. When I read the chapter describing custom differential in Sariel's book, trying to follow instructions to build it . Unfortunately, I only had "two" Knob wheels. Then I came up with a idea that is there possible to replace Knob wheels with double bevel g20t ? That means I have to build a different frame for three double bevel g20t which the 5X7 studless frame can not house. After trial and error of building process , I managed to build a frame that can enclose three double bevel g20t and connected it to a turntable . This differential is going to take more space than Sariel's when actually put to use. Here is a short video demonstration of this differential . A link to BS http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/rockmvp/Idea/CustomDifferential/dsc09085.jpg
  12. This is a fully automatic clock that was finished end of 2014. So, why do I call it "fully automatic"? - The clockwork runs as a normal mechanical clock with a pendulum and counterweight. - There is a motor that winds the clock every hour. - The speed of the clock is adjusted once a day using the Mindstorms unit. The speed is adjusted by changing the length of the pendulum. In total, the clock runs for itself without any assistance, and it shows the right time, even if it is build using only LEGO bricks. (Apart from the string to the counterweight) There have been many challenges in this design. My main focus, except the obvious goal to make everything to work, was to make this as compact as possible. The whole clockwork fits inside 14x14x14 studs. I did a short video to show the "action": The two sensors are used for: 1. Stop when the counterweight is fully winded 2. Give feedback from the minute hand rotation back to the Mindstorms unit. The counterweight is made out of 12 train/boat weights and is about 0.68kg. Winding is done through a differential to avoid interruptions during the winding. There are two medium motors inside the clockwork for the winding and adjustment. The Mindstorms unit is hidden in the base behind a hatch: WIP pictures Specially designed differential gear to reduce the friction between the counterweight and clockwork as much as possible. The winding motor rotates the large turntable gear: Clockwork prototype, without any automation: Very first prototype of the escapement:
  13. This is a large short-course style stadium truck built with Lego Mindstorms Ev3. It features independent rear suspension and a front live axle with steering. One Medium Motor controls the steering, and one Large Motor drives the rear wheels. It also uses the InfraRed Sensor for Remote Control. The reasons I used only one motor in this model are: 1. I was attempting to reduce weight, 2. The chassis of the truck is even studs wide, not odd; not allowing a very easy placement of two motors, 3. This vehicle was built as a test vehicle for the new 4-stud wide differential I got a while back but never used until now. The drawbacks of this truck are: 1. One motor does not exert nearly enough power, 2. The old-type differential makes it impossible to not use more gears in order to transfer the power, 3. All the gears used decreases efficiency massively, 4. The rear independent suspension worsens performance, 5. A 3:5 gear ratio was used (a 1:3 would have been better), 6. The truck is very large, bulky, and heavier than most other robots that I have built. I extremely apologize for the audio/video sync issues, I have no idea why the video turned out that way. Music: http://www.bensound.com [] Extra pictures coming soon! []
  14. This is a fully functional, remote controlled subtractor drive with independent turn and drive function which are separately powered. It is up on LEGO Ideas - support it if you like it, there you will find some more high-resolution photos :) https://ideas.lego.com/projects/101126 This is a fully functional, remote controlled subtractor drive with independent turn and drive function which are separately powered. It features: - robust design with custom-made differentials that can handle larger forces - transparent, "airy" and parsimonious design - "invisible" electricity, all integrated into the mainframe - front and back lights with light switch integrated into the mainframe - quadruple L-motor power (two linearly coupled blocks of two motors each) - front shield - triple speed freely hanging piston motor - self-stabilizing and self-balancing design - can be mounted with any superstructure, e.g. cranes, hoists, levers Constructed to an 11/15 measure, fully compliant with the rules of LEGO. Only official LEGO parts are used and no parts are modified or altered. Weight: about 4 lbs, dimensions ca. 30 x 25 x 30 cm The chassis can be used as a basis for basically any vehicle that has to traverse difficult terrain, e.g. building machines, bulldozers, search & rescue vehicles, etc. It is designed to provide a multipurpose solution for a variety of tasks. If fitted with different superstructures on top, countless models can be constructed.
  15. I do want to start this topic off by saying I understand what a differential is, how it works and why it is necessary for standard 2wd setup. What I am curious about is the function of a differential when placed in a drive train between two or more driven axles or 4x4 setup. Is a center differential necessary? Are there performance increases or decreases? What type of results have you had when running PF on a setup with and without a center differential?
  16. Hi All I've been working on an rc van using a Raspberry Pi as the control and have decided to incorporate a technic motor for drive and would like to ask for some help and advice. I want to build a simple gearbox/drive in a compact design, but wasn't sure what gearing/design to use? I have forward and reverse control through the Pi/Scratch and it maybe easier to keep it as simple and reliable as pissible, any help/advice appreciated. You can see my project here http://raspivan.weeb.../rasppivan.html
  17. Hey guys, I'm new here and would like to present you the WIP of my lawn and garden tractor. At the moment, it features RWD, a turning blade and a V2-Engine. Both are connected to the RWD, which has a differential. The seat is variable, it moves in one stud steps. The front wheels are steered by the small steering wheel. Things I'm having on my to do list at the moment: - I'll have to optimize the partcount to give the lawn and garden tractor a nice body (194 parts at the moment). - Building the model in real life (this will happen next weekend). And I have a picture of the actual virtual model for you, which shows the drivetrain and the frame. In the model above I made the wrong picture, so you can't see the steering. My second picture shows you my virtual model with body parts. I'll use silver and black or red and black. I'll see which plates I have at home and use them in one of the two colour combinations. The basket isn't ready, when playing with the lawn garden tractor the player can remove it. Another small update: I changed the body design, because the first version of the body was too "fat".
  18. Hello! I am currently working on heavy MOD of 8297, I have sucessfully changed the front part of the model including a gearbox run by M motor, so the model has motorized winch and second output (probably for door lift), as well as servo for steering. I didn't had problem with adding XL for propulsion. I am keeping the original suspension of 8297-B and RWD layout because I am too lazy to invent my own :D The XL propulsion output goes to 20T-reduced to 12T, then again 12T and back to 20T and then standard 3L diff. I think it's enough reduction for XL... But now I have noticed a glitch... when standing without pressure on suspension, the yellow shock absorbers push to the steering arm (part 57515) so much, that it generates too much friction between steering arm and CV joint (part 32494), making one wheel turn slower and sometimes almost stop. This happens also when I pick it up in the air - one wheel turns (the one in the "gear" side of differential). If i slow down the fast spinning wheel, then the other that was slow, start to spin faster as if there was no problem. Also, if I apply pressure to shock absorber, so the CV joint and universal joint go straight to the differential (instead of being in angle), the friction is less and speed of both wheels becomes somewhat similar. Here's two pics of rear suspension from underside, that might help to undersand: http://www.brickshel.../dsc_2139-2.jpg and http://www.brickshel...-B/dsc_2137.jpg As I thought that this is due to the pressure shock absorber is creating towards the steering arm, I lifted the shock absorber one stud higher, so the angle is wider and accordingly, lower pressure (ofc, it made the chassis flat instead of the lifted rear as with 8297 B). But the problem still exist. With current setup I noticed, that when driving or checking wheelspin while they are lifted in air, they turn fine when "driving" backwards, but loose sinergy and start driving with gear crack sound, when "driving" forward. So the question is - can this be "cured" keeping the 8297 rear suspension setup, maybe by replacing a part (differential?) that might be faulty? Or this is going to happen anyways (some natural situation with XL)? I had the nasty sound of slipping gear crack with my previous MOD - 9395, but in the end, I managed to make a drivetrain, that doesn't crack (http://www.brickshel...V2/dsc_0487.jpg) . Now I hope to get an advice, as I don't have experience with XL motors, as well as suspended axles, and maybe I am doing something totally wrong... thanks! Lauris
  19. i started a moc of a crawler trial type truck with a lsd (limited slip differential) which receives power from the motor through bevel gears that keep skipping and getting destroyed any help or suggestions would be appreciated i used an old style diff next to a clutch gear so the drive axle has some resistance only problem is the 16 tooth bevels won't mesh correctlly.
  20. Hi Everyone! I just created this, and thought I would share, as it might give someone an idea for a us in a Moc or something. I'm thinking a car perhaps with seats on top. It could only be 3 studs high. It basically gears around the stationary motors and I'm guessing creates the following ratios. 1 motor equals 4:1 2 motors equals 2:1 3 motors equals 4:3 And 4 motors equal 1:1 output. Now if you could create a level on the remotes that engages 1 channel at a time, you would have silky smooth gear changes! Sorry if this has been done before!
  21. I already own a 24-16 tooth differential and a 28 tooth bevel one, but I do not own the oldest version with 28 spur teeth. I was just wondering about the performance of the old one, the newest one and the 24-16 one, but I am afraid that the 28 tooth spur differential might be bad because it is usually driven by a 14 tooth gear, which is an extremely weak gear.
  22. In my next 8x8 crawler project I have the intention of trying a setup with the two rear axle with 2 L motor each (a motor for each wheel). the two front axles only will steer with a servo, an L motor and a differential on each axle... and all axles will be floating with 4 links and horizontal chock absorber. Did someone know if its a goon idea or if a topic already talk about this setup?