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  1. Ever since set 42039 hit the shelves, I feel attracted to building Le Mans prototype cars, due to their characteristic shape and almost futuristic looks. So I think you can imagine the delight I felt when during my random stroll on the interwebs a few months back, I stumbled upon the following concept car. Back then, I tried building a Lego version of it and got quite far. But due to lack of pieces I had to abandon early. I have since bricklinked a thing or two and want to redo the model from scratch. I think the actual car doesn't even exist in reality yet, and I think this is actually a rendered image. If I remember correctly, it is a concept that they want to try to build in reality in 2020. Personally I think it's the least car-like looking car there is (if you only count serious car models). If you forget the wheels and decals, it could be modern architecture as well. What's also cool is how the black wheel arches are actually almost shaped like Technic panels. I will be using the wheels of 8070, 42039 et al. These are slightly less than 9 studs in diameter, which justifies the following side view: The planned functions are: front steering rear drive, driving a fake engine suspension doors (powered by the damped springs also used in 8448) There's little space, so I don't count on having a gearbox. With a bit of luck, I can find room for a 2-speed, which at least gives the idea of a gearbox. But it probably won't be a proper "supercar" in the Lego sense of the word. We'll see, and I might need some help from you guys with this later on. OK, let's start. All I have so far is the two suspension modules. Here's the front suspension: First thing you might notice is, I'm using the long wishbone arms. Personally this is what makes the suspension much more interesting to myself, because it's more challenging to make it work and looks much more like F1-type suspension. Also you see I'm using only 1 small spring per wheel. The suspension travel is very little (about 1 stud) so I hope having 1 spring per axle is enough. It'll have to be though, because the mechanism isn't very strong, so a stronger spring will result in parts coming loose. The black axle on the left is the steering input, to that's where the rest of the car will come. Thanks to the pins with pin hole, the 5x7 frame is pretty rigidly attached to the whole thing. The chassis will be connected to that 5x7 frame. The rear suspension is unsteered, and therefore less spectacular. But it holds the differential: Those two modules is where I am right now. I do want to have said beforehand that I'm really not good at recreating existing car bodies, so it will be difficult and I will take some slack here and there. But how fortunate is it, that Lego has the perfect color for this car. Older Technic fans know these panels from the great Offroader 8466 and its smaller brother 8465. I'm actually not even a fan of the old panels, but this car is really the perfect opportunity to put them to use (and indeed, I bricklinked some, so I have a nice collection of them). Unfortunately though, these four pairs of panels are the only pieces in this color (except a very rare ribbed hose I don't have). So the body will necessarily be a bit crude. A body with modern pieces would probably be better, but I want to see how far I can come using these good old panels. When we get there, your feedback will be very welcome. The gaps will be filled up with black, I think. But a word of warning: I will probably add some details in a second color, simply because I find black a bit boring to work with. OK, that's it for the opening post. I hope you don't mind all the rambling I do between the pics. Next up will be a basic chassis connecting the two modules together at the right distance.
  2. ENGINEERING IS AN ART. Equal parts rational and emotional, engineering is at its best when the tension between these sides results in harmony. Flickr: Instagram: Such was the vision for NSX GT3. This was my inspiration: NSX GT3 inspiration by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This project began with the intention on designing the fastest 1:8 scale car in my lineup. Thanks to @Kalps1811 for helpin me find this beauty and @DugaldIC for some suggestions that were at the perfect time. I've really wanted to build a wide body, low racecar for some time now and the body style of this car allowed more room fit all the batteries into the framework for extra power. Acura NSX GT3- outdoors by lachlan cameron, on Flickr With the two battery packs and 2 S-bricks the power to the XL motors doubled, and had enough torque to also double up on the gearing. Acura NSX GT3 Type R by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I'm proud to say the gears have never skipped once. The bodywork is 3/4 studs off the ground with ultra tight suspension. Two m-motors are tucked into the main console, each powering a single door. Acura NSX GT3 Type R by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The front sports 10 headlights and a slightly tilted front / grill. 2 lights for the rear, easy battery access, V6 motor geared up 4x faster than before, adjustable seats & steering, working steering wheel powered by servo motor, opening hood and engine cover. Acura NSX GT3 Type R by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This is my first white supercar and am happy to use new color schemes. Acura NSX GT3 Type R by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Acura NSX GT3 Type R by lachlan cameron, on Flickr NSX- Filter Fire 🔥 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Acura NSX GT3 Type R by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  3. The Koenigsegg One:1 was introduced in 2014. Seven examples, including one prototype, were built during 2014 and 2015. This was one of the most exclusive production car programs ever envisaged in the car industry. The hp-to-kg curb weight ratio is an astonishing 1:1. This has been called the “dream” equation, previously thought impossible when it comes to fully road legal and usable sports cars. The One:1 is the first homologated production car in the world with one Megawatt of power, thereby making it the world´s first series produced Megacar. More on the One:1 at This car grabbed my attention about a year ago so I decided to try to build it. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Replicate the rear triplex suspension set up of the Koenigsegg One:1 as closely as possible Replicate the front suspension set up Syncro dihedral door hinges which are typically Koenigsegg Paddle shift gearbox - a new challenge for me. A good approximation of the real car with the bodywork. Tough enough to withstand my young three year old playing with it. Intuitive enough for my kids to explore the functions. After a long build process and lots of experimentation I am really happy with the end result. The paddle shift gear box ended up being 3 speed plus reverse mainly due to space restrictions and also complexity. Perhaps a future project will be to expand this concept to include additional gears. The paddle shifts at the steering wheel are aesthetic in that they are linked to the actual manual shifters which are camouflaged on top of the dashboard, but it is not really possible to exert enough force on the dash paddles to change gear. This is presented in the images below and in the CAD image. Over time I will digitise this and add a bit of video to show the functions, but first, here are some pictures. [TBC]
  4. Hello fellow Technic fans, let me present to you my tribute model to the well known, iconic set 8880 As a new member I should introduce myself, but I did that already in the forum designed for the very purpose so I just link that here http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134093 and we can jump to the main subject. I've been encouraged by a commenter on youtube who is a member here to share this MOC of mine on this forum as maybe this will give you a rest after the frustration caused by the much anticipated 42056. Don't get it wrong, I don't mean to fill the gap it left (I read the topic too and share the feeling), but hopefully can give you a few minutes of entertainment. I admit it is a sensitive piece of history to touch, but I hope you recognize that the respect towards the original model what was driving my hands while I was designing this plastic homage. Probably some of you have already seen the video on the youtube. For those who didn't let me link it: Instead of making a new description I'll use the one that I made for the vid and pepper it with some images: The original set 8880 has been released in 1994. Sadly that time I was living my dark age (life without lego). Now it's been 4 years that I got back in business, dark age is over and this set is weightly responsible for that change in my life. First I was just reading about it on Blackbird page. Long story short I could manage to get one, and as an old school lego fan (being child in the 80's) it straight enchanted me and determined probably my whole life (hobbywise at least). In the same time I really admire the modern studdless system of lego and it inevitably ended up in the demand in me to build a studless version of it. I've built it first in 2013, but in lack of sources (parts and talent) it wasn't really desirable, nor "smart". Since then I keep rebuilding it time to time and always ends up better and better. According this I wouldn't say this is the last or the best of it, but at the moment this is the stage of its evolution. This is where the name I gave came from. A few words about the details: Body: As you can see I did not use panels but kept the wireframe like appearance as it is one of the benchmark of the original set. Speaking of which I have to admit I did change the shape of the front a lot, even eliminated the concealed headlights due to the feeling that time has passed and it's not cool anymore. But to pay back what I took, I've designed a hood what follows the geometrical concept of the boot. If you listen closer, when the hood opens, the headlights are sliding backward. Rest of the body I think speaks for itself. Interior: Not much to say about it, seats, dash , keeping the colour scheme. Gearbox: Now that is a tricky one. That was the first problem I've been facing with as due to the size of the model I needed a narrow 4 speed gearbox with central differential, but I could not find a decent one anywhere. Crowkillers Paul had the 6 speeder, but it was too wide for my car and Sariel's 4 speeder has been designed for two wheel drive. So I've spent the next month and a half to develop a new one from scratch. Of course if there is a central diff it should be lockable, so it is. And it makes a very compact structure with the gearbox itself what comes handy in modular building. Edit: that was years back. From here it seems rediculously long time, but I let you decide. Here is a deidcated video about this gearbox: Steering: Unlike in the original, there is no ackermann geometry in my model, but please blame lego as it is the field where the part developement goes backward. Anyway the front steering is pretty simple, but for the rear I had to use a rod mechanism, since the compact gearbox left no room for an axle to go trough without compromising the aesthetics. It comes however with certain benefits, as with minor modification on the linking can change the steering lock of the rear wheels. I've applied the smalest as I've found it more realistic. The real life 4 wheel steered cars have only 3-5 degrees on the rear. Ground clearence adjustment: No witchcraft, a worm gear and an 8 tooth gear paired up on each wheel to lift and lower the shockers trough an axle. That's it. Friend of my accidentally discovered (by opening the boot) that this coupe can be converted easily to a hatchback... To be honest I did not consider this as a requirement when I was designing the model. I've made a couple of colour variations too as it appeared above. There is more hi-res pics on my brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=562855 Feel free to share your opinion or ask about it Thank you for your attention. Attika
  5. After three months of iterating upon its design in LDD, 111.34 Australian dollars and half an hour of building, my McLaren F1 is complete! The total number of parts is approximately individual 165 pieces (this includes wheels and tyres being counted as separate parts), and two of the main body pieces (leading up to the rear wheel arches) come from a 130 dollar LEGO set. There is not an angle that the McLaren F1 has that isn't iconic. From its rounded, short rear-end and taillights to its slim front nose, the car's entire design philosophy was based solely on how light its designers could get it to be - and even then, they weren't happy. What supercar is complete without some rich guy in his freshly-pressed (and very plasticy, in this case) suit and suitcase? It fits a minifigure! Barely. LDD likes to assume you can phase parts together, so while I was able to add a minifigure and let it sit comfortably in LDD, I'm forced to remove the minifigure's hair/hat/etc for it to fit in real life. To say it's a tight squeeze is an understatement. I saved the best for last, so, of course, what McLaren F1 would be complete without a "Longtail"? Images are hosted on MOC-Pages, and will be used in my page when it goes live: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/429852 Stores pilfered to construct this MOC: SwissBrickPlanet 2AM Brick Store BrickComplete AFOL Supply WLWYB Thanks for the excellent prices & parts!
  6. Hello all, this is my first time posting here. Feel free to tell me if I have done anything wrong. Black Aura Supercar Youtube Video, Trailer, Instructions Part 1, Bricksafe Two XL-motors for drive, one M-motor for steering, one M-motor for shifting, one M-motor for the spoiler, and two M-motors for the doors. Has a turning and tiltable steering wheel, working lights with switch in cabin, four-speed transmission, easily removable battery pack, spoiler that folds in and out VERY neatly, openable gullwing-like doors, openable and removable rear, working V12 engine with visible chain near the battery pack, all-wheel independent suspension with three springs a wheel, and finally, an opening hood with stand to keep it open. Built purely from imagination and was not intended to look like any specific car. More than six pounds! (I think it was something in between six pounds and seven ounces or eleven ounces. I do not remember). A video: Some of the pictures from Bricksafe /\:
  7. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  8. @Jim's stellar review of the 42056 gave me this idea. The chassis itself is mostly done, but I wanted to create this topic to get some tips because I am no supercar expert. Here is the chassis: It has independent suspension, RWD, 4speed gearbox, and 3 steering modes: front, 4 wheels, crab steering. Shifting is the interesting part: -if gear 1 or 2 is selected, 4 wheels steering is selected. -if gear 3 or 4 is selected, crab steering is selected. -if no gear is selected, front wheel steering is selected. This is (at least somewhat) realistic because: (From Jim's review) The gearbox: So that's what it is. I will post 1 more update before putting this to rest while I wait for parts to arrive. So leave a comment! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  9. G'day all. So last week I decided to enter the Lego Porsche contest with this idea of a dream Porsche car. In Australia we have a racing category called V8 Supercars and since I follow this series and a masive Holden fan I thought well Porsche should race a car as well and that became my dream Porsche, a Porsche V8 Supercar. The car will be made in 2 parts, chassis and body.Overall size when finished- 570mm x 230mm x 170mm. My aim was to create a realistic car with roll cage and stuff but to have the body separate so that I can create other car brands to go over the chassis since in the race series the run a control chassis. If there is time Ill add front and rear independent adjustable sway bars. The chassis functions are: 4 wheel Independent suspension. 4 wheel disk brakes that work through the brake peddle. camber and steering geometry. 4 spd sequential gearbox. working clutch through the clutch peddle. HOG steering with a moving steering wheel. air operated car jacks. fake V8. V8 Supercar Porsche by Jono Mckinlay, on Flickr Hopefully it will be finished in time for the comp.
  10. Crowkillers newest creation....
  11. In 2017 the AMG company is celebrating its 50th jubilee - congratulations on this occasion! Now here is my tribute, although it wasn´t the main intention to build for that purpose. Back in 2015 we´ve had a fun project, the BMW M4 DTM which was echoed by fellows around here far more than I expected and it opened many opportunities for cooperation with other specialists to round up the MOC. Together with Lipko´s Audi RS5 DTM a Mercedes still was missing in the line-up of some collectors though. One of them, our dear EB fellow filus followed the idea strongly and thanks to his accompaniment we elaborated the AMG C63 DTM racecar of the 2015 season. The whole project turned out to generate more fun (and challenges) as assumed. To make everything more interesting, a lot more time has been invested than planned first and more diversity was created resulting in 2 different chassis – manual and PF. On top 2 different exchangeable liveries. The quality of the model was on priority and can be considered as far better than the quality of e.g. the BMW M4 DTM. Parts rarely fall off when the car meets bumps and walls. You can even lift the car by the roof without damaging anything. Testing both models with kids of all ages between 2 and 10 years showed some robustness and reliability above average. Thanks to all participants involved in the process! Custom stickers were provided by Jaap (Jaap Technic) again, who did a fabulous job, and these really made up the icing on the cake. Thorsten Spelz produced extraordinary detailed separate instructions for both chassis and both liveries which allows to choose the desired individual setup and color scheme. Sorry in advance that these can´t be offered for free, because too many careful efforts, costly parts and countless hours of work have gone into the project. Manual chassis: Most of the development has gone into the manual chassis. I had to try it once and I´m glad I managed to make a “simple” but fool proof shifting mechanism which relies on shock springs only. No rubber bands used and the shifting parts itself retract by gravity only (which doesn´t allow 10 shifts per second though, who cares). Especially the beautiful engine sound is a nice feature – btw it´s also a kind of gear indicator – after some time playing you can distinguish the actual selected gear by the different sound and resistance while pushing the car. A white 24-teeth gear has been installed between differential and gearbox, preventing gears from damage when pushed too hard – a bit similar to the 42056 Porsche setup ;-). - dimensions in studs (L/W): 61/25 - independent wheel suspension - 4 – speed gearbox - 2 manual shifters (up and down) and steering in comfortable position above the rear axle - working steering wheel - mini fake V8 engine RC chassis: Nothing special and no new big achievements here probably. Anyway I´m very satisfied how good all together works. The XL motor geared down 3:1 works flawlessly together with the L motor geared down by 5:3 ratio – absolutely no grinding at the differential between both motors which is another good indicator of efficiency. As you can see in the video, the cars´ speed is reasonable for indoor and is almost the same compared to the BMW (stronger) equipment. Comparison here: BMW is driven by 2 XL motors; gear reduction 3:1. - dimensions in studs (L/W): 61/25 - independent wheel suspension - remote driving and steering - LED lights - PF equipment: 1 XL motor + 1 L motor for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 1 pole reverser, 3 LED pairs (2 front, 1 rear), 1 extension wire, 1 battery, 1 IR V2 receiver, 1 IR remote - SBrick compatible (replaces receiver, remote and pole reverser) Bodywork dimensions in studs: length 61 studs (without rear spoiler); width 25 studs (without mirrors); height 15,5 studs - openable doors - easily removable rear spoiler and engine hood - custom stickers corresponding the looks of the real cars - roll cage under the roof - Technic panels count: 51 “Silberpfeil” livery - #6 Robert Wickens The new orange parts from the 42056 set allowed replicating the distinguished color scheme of this nice livery. I like especially that the round shaped roof could be made using the 13x3 bowed panels. Unfortunately Silver beams and panels are not really available, so these parts have been made in white. The stickers with the particular energy tin make it very special IMO. “AMG” livery - #3 Paul di Resta The white/black color combo may seem nothing spectacular nowadays, but with the slight red accents and the stickers in particular it makes an equal counterpart to the other variant. The roof couldn´t be built the same way and its shape turned out a bit different, unfortunately the new 13x3 bowed panels, to be released in 2H in black color, were too far on the horizon during the design process. Anyway the overall parts availability is great and I guess this version will be the preferred option for most who want to rebuild it. And here the mandatory videos: More pictures can be seen at my bricksafe. Instructions and stickers are available. Enjoy and have fun !
  12. Hello everyone. After a very long time, I would like to present you my new creation. Its a BMW vision M power. As you will see later, the vehicle has no special features, since from the very beginning, the idea of building was primarily in the design and form of the car. The idea was of a typical character in the BMW style. A kind of prestigious futuristic retro sports style with recognizable BMW lines. PF components are: - 2 L motors for drive - 1 servo motor for steering with funtcional steering wheel - 1 M motor for 3 speed linear gearbox. It was the worst decision and design in my life for this gearbox.When I built and tested, it all seemed to work wery good.Now it is finished and definitely a total breakdown. After eight months of building this car, I simply do not go all over and repair it all. There is no chance. - 2 V2 recievers - 1 big batery box Some pictures. And my favorite photo. And the video. Thanx for watching. Best regards, Valter
  13. I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: Instruction: Google Drive: Dropbox:
  14. Hi guys, I couldn't find any pictures for a long time, but finally found one. It is only one picture, blurry, but shows it well. This was with about 1600 unsorted pieces. Btw, those are 42000 wheels.
  15. I am pleased to announce my most complicated and rewarding build, the Lykan Hypersport. Flickr album: It all started with framework. I had to design it so it wouldn't have any motors in the back or the front of the wheels. Most of my previous builds have been too large in those areas, so I tried create more room with this build. This is a really early version of the framework.. a lot has been changed for the final version Some of my main goals for this build were to create as many realistic functions possible to the real car while maintaining a cosmetically appealing bodywork. Top secret 3 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The curves and features on this car are par to none in regards to bodywork difficulty and functions. It all began with the framework and a 4 speed manual transmission. The rear suspension, (horizontal coil over) was beyond me as to how I could implement it with Lego. Lykan Hypersport- mixed album by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I discussed my concerns with Dugald and 5 minutes later he sends me a photo (below) of a roughed out version of the proper suspension. Lykan Hypersport- mixed album by lachlan cameron, on Flickr We ended up using that same suspension for the build. The 4 speed transmission and rear suspension was build with a lot of help from him. I bumped a ton of ideas his way in regards to proper proportion and it really helped speed up this build. Lykan Hypersport- Red Supercar by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Once the ground work was laid out, it was time for the functions. I absolutely had to motorize the Lykan doors, to the same extent of the real car. Top secret 4 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This beast has working lights, servo for steering, 2xl motors for drive, 1 m-motor for doors, 1 m-motor for rear wing, working twin turbo Flat 6 with fan. The front hood has an original latch system I designed to open the same amount as the real car. The rear engine cover was designed to have similar appearance to the real car and I found the grey flags to have the right shape and size. Top secret new build.... by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Everything opens like the real car Lykan Hypersport exposed by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Lykan Hypersport- Red Supercar by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The rear wing tilts and raises. Lykan Hypersport- Red Supercar by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Lykan Hypersport- mixed album by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Inspiration... Inspiration by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  16. Hi everybody ! So, this is the MOC I have been working on since September. It's a supercar inspired by the Aston Martin Vulcan and the Icona Vulcano. My goal was to actually have a clean and solid build. Functions : - Openable front and back hood and doors - Direction controlled by a HOG or by the steering wheel - Front and rear suspension - 4 speed gearbox with an H6 fake engine Design : The car is mostly inspired by the Icona Vulcano in the front and the Vulcan in the rear. The spoiler attachement and the exhaust are inspired from the P1 GTR. Full flickr gallery :
  17. Hi everyone, This will be my first project in a while, and my first project here. I want to try and make a 2WD (hopefully FWD, but RWD is fine if things get difficult), 4-cylinder car with a transversely mounted engine and gearbox assembly, and hopefully as a studless construction. I started mocking-up some of the gearbox in LDD (I know, not the best tool), and the results have not been too encouraging (space-wise). I haven't yet figured how to post photos, but I will when I do
  18. Current status: 8+N+R gearbox, D-N-R shifter, and the engine done. Also some color matchings and a little bit of interior --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, everyone. Today, I would like to introduce my new moc in progress (and the first to post here). It's Mercedes AMG GT R. (in 1:8, with porsche wheels&Tires) (From I'm planning to make it in black, as 3x11 curved black panels are available now. If amg gtr convertible model comes out, I want to try the convertible mechanism, too. My current status is only up to the drivetrain (engine&gearbox) And this is it. It's a 8 speed gearbox, with D-N-R which I built by myself. At first, I was goint to use charbel's 8 speed gearbox, which is awesome, but soon found out that the gear ratios aren't realistic (the last gear is 45 times faster than the first gear.) This gearbox is also combination of a common 4 speed gearbox and 2 speed gearbox, but different in the fact that the 2 speed gearbox is shifted every 90 degrees, and the 4speed gearbox is shifted every 180 degrees. And that resulted in a realitic gear ratio... in which the last gear is 6.25 times faster than the first gear. The hardest part was the mechanism to make one shift in the 4 speed gearbox while the paddel shift (which is not built yet) is shifted twice. The mechanism is here: Here's the sifting video: Under the chassis, you can see the D-N-R selector, which the gearstick to shift it is not built yet. As I only have times on Sunday afternoons, the progress will be very slow, but I will finish it sometime, so don't be angry even if the progress is slow. Comments are welcome, and advices are also welcome. Thanks. Oh, I missed some explanations on the gearbox. The 4 speed gearbox is just the regular one, with 1:1 to 1:5, and the 2 speed gearbox is 1:1 to 1:1.25 which doesn't work yet as currently I don't have any chains. The chains are also linked to reverse gear.
  19. Here is an updated post. I put the original post in this spoiler. Video! And some actually good pics:
  20. Hi everyone, I am making a new lego technic supercar, but I have a question. For my propulsion system I want to use 2 XL and 2 L motors. Since the XL and L motor have different rpm (XL 110 and L 195), I don't know what the best way is to conect them. If I have done the Maths correct the L motor should be geared down by 1:1.77. I am trying to connect them in that gearratio but the best option I have found so far is to gear the L motor down by 1:1.66t (using the 20 tooth and 12 tooth gear). Other suggestions are welcome! When powering the motor the sound is just a little bit different, but I dont know if I am damaging the motors and getting all of the torque.....
  21. Hi, I decided to make my own supercar after seeing numerous topics. My current chassis has a 4-speed gearbox and independent suspension.
  22. [MOC] Lego Aston Martin Vulcan

    My moc of the Aston Martin Vulcan, at the moment it's my favourite moc. First saw the car while watching Grand Tour and loved it. The front of the car isn't very accurate but overall this is a satisfactory build. Hope you guys like it ! Regards, KMP FB : Flickr :
  23. I took myself on the quest to create a new supercar, in a new scale. Normally, when I build suprecars I aways use the wheels from 8070, 42039 and the like, which is about a 1:10 scale. This is smaller than many cars by other builders, who use the larger tyres from 42000 or more recently the Porsche. So I set myself the challenge to build a car in the somewhat larger scale of 1:8. Which is, I'll be using these wheels which I'd bought myself as a little present :) It won't be a particular existing model, but I used a plan of a Ford GT to find the measurements relative to the wheels. It will be 27 to 29 wide. This is quite a bit larger than I'm used to, so this will be interesting. I'm relatively good at doing the chassis, so the largest challenge will be the body. It will not be motorized. Here's the front axle. I want to have it all-wheel drive, so the rear axle will be similar, except the steering. The arm for the suspension on the lower wishbone is relatively long, which means the suspension travel is just about one stud. I always try to limit the suspension travel, because then the wheel arch will not need to be so huge. Also, with less travel, the suspension will be stiffer, so that one spring per wheel will still hold the weight. The second unit I started is the gearbox and interior. As usual, I try to do something with color, and I selected green for the interior. I got myself a few extra small panels, which are super useful for finishing touches to almost everything. As you can see, the seats are adjustable; they slide on an axle and the backrest can be inclined (no gearing though). Similar to ye olde 8865 :) The gearbox will be 5+R with 1, 3, 5 forward and 2, 4, R backward, just like in some real cars. The gearing is a known design I used previously, I believe it's not even my design but it's perfect, so I just copy it. It uses the old driving rings, so that explains the 1/2 stud offset. So far, this is sort of the progress/plan. The connection between the two modules is temporary, because the space between them is way too large. The whole seats unit will move forward, but I'm not sure yet how much. The position of the rear wheels is guessed to be approximately there. (Yes, I know the tow truck isn't finished yet. I'll finish it, but my local LUG has a meeting soon and I want to present more than one model, so I will take this one there aswell.)
  24. Hello! msk here. This model is my second 42055 C model so I named D model. First here. Harftrack vehicle with rubber band gun. I can't write long so let's start. Conneced car with stand. Don't have any physical connection so can disconnect easly. Just lifting car using hand. Car function 1. 6 speed gearbox 2. custom-made differencial gear 3. openable trunk 4. working inline-4-engine 5. openable bonet and working cooling fan 6. working steering wheel Stand function 1. 2-speed motorise wheel roller 2. HOG steering tester Now what? INSTRUCTION! * My all instruction is LDD-photo sequence. What is this? Watch my instruction. Sorry. Example here. Engine cam part.
  25. Hi builders and collectors, This MOC started as plain chassis with two-speed GB, basic steering geometry, stabilizers and 4-wheel independent suspension (rear drive) with 3 cylinder fake engine in front. So, technically it is not a supercar you would imagine. Then I built the body around it. It started as blue, but due to lack of parts in this colour I had to "repaint" it, and start building it in white with orange highlights to make it look interesting. Two months after finishing (called so for lack of better names) bodywork, I realized, that four speed gearbox from non-presented project would fit there. And it have (after some minor upgrades and chassis-rebuilds, of course :D) Photos: Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Hot-Hatch Rallycar by Horcik Designs, on Flickr (more photos: The instructions for the chassis can be found on Rebrickable: I see this car as ancestor of my previous Yubihama II.