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Found 49 results

  1. I'm back with another ambitious project. The Bobcat Toolcat 5600. I can't remember where I first seen it, but thought it was cool and (to me) practical. So I then searched online and came across System and minifig scale builds. Then I found this build thread on here of a larger PF version. So I set off getting info, working on a plan, and laying down ideas. I wanted to give this build manual functions with pneumatics. I had a hard time getting the scale of the vehicle dialed in as I had some trouble finding good side pics and the right Lego tire. However, as I kept gathering details, I found what the tire size it has and which Lego wheel was closest to a usable scale. I find that a scale of 1:8.4 worked perfect with the 81.6 x 38 (it was just a little wide, but worked fine). Here is the item its self: The real Toolcat has many variations. Solid axles or independent, closed lift arm or split tubes, turbo or not, and so on. The one I used has solid axles, closed lift arm, and an easier engine setup. My build has many functions that tested my mental limits: All-Wheel-Drive All-Wheel Steering Working Suspension Pneumatic Functions Dumping Bed and Tail Gate Front Pneumatic Accessory Hookup On to the building! Starting with the frame for all the bits and bobs to attach to. Trying to find an image of the chassis proved to be pointless, so I did my best guess from regular pictures. This is the first try. It rebuilt it about four times. Engine placement for now. The version of the real one has a four cylinder engine that powers a hydraulic pump. The real one also has hydraulic drive, but that's not for Lego yet. Forgot to snap some pics of the progress, but this is the second build of the chassis/frame. I had to reduce the engine to 3 cylinders to allow for a drive system. The steering changed after this build as I needed to redo the way it was fixed to the frame. The design of the axle. The frame from the bottom. (It changes some in the final) The first layout of the cab... It was the second hardest part... Laying the pneumatic tubes was way to hard having mostly short pieces. One of the early drafts of the cab. I was at a crossroads by not having enough #3 connectors, running out of white parts, not having enough black 5L/7L beams or 3x7 panels, and no tan technic parts. So I redesigned the door and found that the ribbed hosed worked great. That's the bulk of the build process, the rest was fine tweaks, subtle add-ons, and fighting with Pneumatic hoses. So here is the final product: There are plenty more pictures here! Thank you for your time.
  2. I've been starting on the bodywork and have added a quick clip of a flush mounted door mechanism. I'll periodically add bits until it's done, enjoy (Above pic is a link to video) This is my current supercar WIP. It has fully independent suspension, torsion bar, cantilevered front, typical rear, and sway bars. steering with attached steering wheel one servo, drive 2x XL, custom miniature V12 engine on an AWD chassis with a remote driven four speed sequential gearbox powered by an M motor. Race jacks with remote compressor, adjustable rear wing, tilt steering wheel, pedals with feedback, adjustable with single lever tilt and slide seats. Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUraaNt Flush mounted door hinge operation by Dugald Cameron, on Flickr Let me know what you think! Video edit and teardown to follow!
  3. I made a kinetic sculpture of an exploration car challenging rough road conditions. (Find it on LEGO Ideas) The video says it all really. The vehicle is attached to the landscape on the starboard side, keeping it in place. I hope you like it, don't forget to comment and support . Thank you!
  4. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)
  5. The Super Banshee AWD started out with no plan, no design, and no idea where I was going. I did know I wanted to make a car and little by little I ended up with a finished car. I had to rebuild most of the inside a couple time as I need to or wanted to make tweaks and improvements as I was transferring it to digital. Then rebuilt it a third time to make sure the instructions came out right. It has a functional V-8, can't see it move but it makes it a mid-rear car. All Wheel Drive for complexity. Opening hood and trunk, or is it trunk or hood? Steering with steering wheel, no hand of god sorry. Ratchet shifter with paddle shifter that is a modified version made by Didumos Seats tilt forward, simple but added for no reason. Working suspension. Removable roof for the sunny day. Creating and building it was fun and a good time, even if it took longer than I hoped for.When all was said and done, the instructions took me longer than I would like to admit, as I was not as good with the tricks of Studio. But I'm way more proficient at making them now. A few more pictures can be found here. Instructions are here.
  6. Hello, everyone! This is my first attempt to participate in Eurobricks contest. I am glad to see a lot of entries and I must admit that I had a lot of inspiration and ideas from them. As you can notice from the topic's name I am going to build Yet Another Porsche, since I am among the others Porsche-lovers. The features I want to implement: 1. All wheel drive with three differentials. 2. Independent suspension on all wheels. 3. Working steering wheel and detachable HOG. 4. Two rows of seats (something you don't see very often even in the bigger scale). 5. Working Flat-Six engine with Boxer configuration (not Flat V180, cause it is Porsche) 6. Openable bonnet, trunk and doors with locks. 7. Foldable front seats (you need to access back seats somehow, right?) I guess the list of features looks very optimistic, since the scale doesn't help at all. But I do love these challenges, as they make my head burn in thinking how to solve them. Also I did want to integrate a 4-speed gearbox or at least a DNR-gearbox. I did come to some compact solutions, but every one of them would ruin the interior and backseats. I still hope to somehow manage it, but reluctantly I discarded gearboxes for now. So far I have a prototype of the front axle and the fake Boxer engine. Front axle. I am really proud of the front axle solution, but I need to thanks other builders with similar setup which gave me inspiration. It is double wishbone indepent suspension with floating differential: The engine. The idea was to make a model of real Boxer engine where pistons are moving symmetrically, since the Boxer engine are the ones that are used in Porsche. The difference between Boxer and V180 is under the spoiler. The classic engine with camshaft and pushrod would be too big in Boxer configuration, so I used the idea with 2L axles and 1x1 plates. The only problem was to make axle move back after is was pushed by the plate. Luckily, @Thirdwigg referenced to this post (in spoiler) and I had the solution. After several iteration, I came up with this. Maybe it can be made even smaller using halfpins but I am already satisfied with the result. Antenna bars are used to prevent axles from falling out in case engine will be tilted. Also, in my opinion, they do look like camshafts to operate valves:) That is all of the progress for now. I do have some ideas for features I listed and would happily share the progress. Stay tuned!
  7. Hot Trot - RC Trial Pickup w/ Diagonal AWD I would like to present to you my shot at a 42129 B model. About the name 'Hot Trot': On a very uneven surface, a vehicle typically moves its weight from one diagonal pair of wheels to the other as it proceeds from bump to bump. Hence the word 'Trot' in the name of this model. It refers to a horse proceeding at a moderate pace, lifting each diagonal pair of legs alternately. Instructions are on Rebrickable. Diagonal AWD With Diagonal AWD I mean: 1) having two separate drive trains with equal torque that 2) keep a vehicle going on a very uneven surface while 3) preserving the advantage of having a distribution optimal for cornering. We all know the downside of a classic 4WD setup with three open differentials; as soon as one wheel loses grip, all power will flow to that wheel, causing the vehicle to lose traction. One way to deal with that is to add differential locks like in the Zetros. Another approach that is commonly seen in LEGO Technic builds is to have separate drive trains for front and rear wheels like in the 42099 X-treme Offroader, in which case you need a slipping front wheel and a slipping rear wheel to completely lose traction. This approach however, has two downsides: There is no open distribution of torque between front and rear wheels, which is not optimal for cornering, because the front wheels are not free to average to a higher speed than the rear wheels. On a very uneven surface, for instance in diagonal tests, where wheels start losing contact with the surface, it's likely to have a front and (diagonally opposite) rear wheel loose traction. But what if we would separate the drivetrains diagonally: A drivetrain with a differential between the left front (LF) wheel and the right rear (RR) wheel, and a drivetrain with a differential between the right front (RF) wheel and the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'Diagonal AWD' would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is almost equal to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution between two diagonally arranged drivetrains is much less of a problem than with separate drivetrains for the front and rear axles. On a very uneven surface, where wheels start losing contact with the surface, the wheels that still have contact are typically lined up diagonally. With Diagonal AWD, the vehicle will still have traction, even without additional differential locking. The vehicle will only lose traction when two wheels at one end or at one side will lose grip. Drive trains I wanted to have the motors at the same level as the rest of the drivetrain to keep the center of gravity low. I came up with a fairly flat setup with longitudinally placed motors, a differential at the heart of each drive train and bevel gears to make the 90 degree angles towards the wheels. Each motor drives a 16t clutch gear locked to the differential using a 'floating' driving ring. After some trial and error the best option to properly brace the bevel gears that make the 90 degree angles to the wheels, turned out to be a symmetrical setup with the motors rotating in opposite directions. Because of these opposite directions, using a clutch gear to make the drivetrains cross in a completely flat layout, was not an option. The clutch gear would rotate in opposite direction compared to the axle it's attached to, which would give loads of friction, particularly in motorized models. But luckily, the Zetros has exactly the right gears to make the drivetrains cross independently. The biggest challenge was to prevent the gears that make the 90 degree angles from slipping. I've experimented a lot, but no matter how strong I braced the bevel gears, I could always make them slip with my bare hands, using 24t gears to put force on the axles. So the goal was to make sure the gears can at least handle the power provided by the motors without slipping, even when one drivetrain gets completely blocked. I eventually succeeded, but it has cost me long hours of tinkering and trial and error. I created completely locked up structures for the bevel gears, using the 4 available 5x7 frames and 8 of the 11 beams with alternating holes. These structures are also tailored to fit the main structure well and to provide form-locked mounting points for the suspension arms. The two assemblies are extremely hard to build, because you can only insert the gears and axles after the structure has been put together. Suspension I incorporated independent double wishbone suspension with the springs arranged in a pushrod style. The springs have been mounted such that they compress by approximately 33% under the vehicle's own weight. This gives a very nice road holding, because the springs can both expand and compress while taking bumps. I managed to optimize the spring setup for max suspension travel, which is about 3L, which fitted my objectives perfectly. The suspension travel shouldn't rule out the chances of having a wheel coming loose from the surface, because that's when the Diagonal AWD kicks in. It seemed obvious to use the new longer male half of the CV-joints for the rear axles, so the rear axles use 8L suspension arms. The suspension arms of the front axles are shorter, because I had to build the gear-rack assembly around the drivetrain axles and wanted the steering links to have the same length as the suspension arms to avoid bump steering. The steering setup has an Ackermann geometry. The steering links have been reinforced such that they never detach from the gear-rack assembly and the gear-rack assembly itself has been braced in a way that rules out unintended transversal movement. The 2 phone handsets came in handy for this purpose. Chassis and bodywork The main structure is as stiff as I could possibly make it. I even used the motors as structural elements to add to rigidity. I wanted to rule out flex as much as possible, because I wanted to demonstrate how responsive the suspension is and because a flexible chassis would reduce the chances of the Diagonal AWD kicking in. Apart from the extensions necessary to mount the springs, the main structure is just 5L tall. On top of this main structure I've build a strong structure for the cabin of the vehicle. The bodywork does not have any features like openable doors or whatever. People that know me, know that I'm mainly interested in drivetrains and suspension. The bodywork is robust however and I did pay attention to the interior this time. You can lift it by the roof and I also made it very easy to remove the battery box. Powered Up Profile Because I don't use the medium motor, and because I have the large PU motors running in opposite directions, I could not use the Control+ app to operate this model. However a default profile in the Powered UP app could be easily tweaked to what this model needs: Finally I want to mention that I started using Energizer Ultimate Lithium Mignon batteries for my MOCs. They are strong, long-lasting and most importantly; they are at least 20% lighter than alkaline batteries. Photos
  8. A compact sequential heavy-duty 4 speed remote controlled AWD gearbox Each gear of this remote controlled gearbox approximately doubles the speed of the previous. The output shaft contains an integrated lockable differential for AWD. See the video for a WORKING DEMO | FREE INSTRUCTIONS below. GEAR RATIOS 1st 6:1 2nd 3.3:1 3rd 1.8:1 4th 1:1 FEATURES compact remote controllable sequential gearbox 4 transmission speeds evenly distributed gear ratios differential output (AWD) differential lock single rotary catch many mounting points no half studs INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] https://bricksafe.com/files/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox---with-perfect-gear-ratios/remote-controlled-4speed-awd-gearbox-with-differential-lock.pdf [3D MODEL] https://bricksafe.com/files/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox---with-perfect-gear-ratios/remote-controlled-4speed-awd-gearbox-with-differential-lock.io REBRICKABLE: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-83457/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox-with-perfect-gear-ratios BRICKLINK: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=244834
  9. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).
  10. I can finally do an AWD 1:10 scale car with a realistic width between wheels, less than 24 studs, thank to the land rover wheels. I always wanted to do these cars but it was impossible to achieve the right width without use the old 8880 system, now I have a few cars to build that I had discarded, let´s see what I am able to do, of course with the old style bodywork, flex axles and only a few panels. Many years ago using the 8880 system. Now using new wheels.
  11. After thinking for some time decided not to enter the Nova car into the competition as it wasn't exactly fitting into the scale of the Car Transporter even though it fit fit within dimension box. Also wanted to make something unique in functionality. the former WIP car will be fitted with RC and finished afterwards. Here's a working prototype of a driven front axle with split drivetrains to maximize engine bay space and ground clearance (whopping 2 studs!!!!). Please note that the chassis structure is temporary! Instead of flexible hose in the suspension I would prefer using springs, but that is "illegal" according to rules of no modification of parts. Cya.
  12. Hi! I'm glad to show you one of my recent MOCs - it is contest model Harley-Davidson Fly Boy V (Lego & Harley-Davidson contest "build the motorcycle of the future"). My motorcycle converts to the quadcopter: This Lego Technic model has many features: - working V8 piston engine - all-wheel drive - front and rear suspension - steering - transformation mechanism deploys the bike to the quadcopter - in flying mode all four wheels-propellers are driven by V8 engine - detailed dashboard, special all-side mirrors and turn signals for flying mode Unfortunately it was not enough even to reach top-20. To provide all these functions the model contains 74 gears, 17 cardan joints, 4 turntables and 2 small linear actuators. Mechanisms in action: Building instructions are available on rebrickable, also I plan to create red$white version: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-31285/desert752/harley-davidson-fly-boy-v/#comments Part list in high resolution: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141718063@N06/albums/72157711750315713 Thanks for watching!
  13. Functions/features: Drive (AWD) Steering (with working steering wheel) 4-speed transmission Motorized gull-wing doors Full independent suspension Flat-6 engine Adjustable seats (recline/slide) Illuminated headlights and taillights (with Brickstuff LEDs) Video: Photos:
  14. After a long and difficult builing proces, the project is finally done. The project started in early may, when I created a WIP topic here on EB. In the end, I set the bar a little bit too high as I was not able to get all the desired features inside. Audi S3 quattro Specs: - Dimensions: 44x19x14 studs (L x W x H) - Weight: 1300g - Estimated part count: 1800 parts - 4 PF motors Features: - Opnable doors and bonnet - Ajustable seats (2x HOGs) - All wheel/quattro drive with three differentials (2x PF L motors) - Steering (PF Servo Motor) - 4 Speed sequential gearbox (PF servo motor) - BuWizz 2.0 Power - Complete detailed interior with no mechanics/electrics visible I tried to use as many panels as possible which is IMO essential to get the best looking bodywork. This model consists of 45 technic panels. The stepper mechanism (located underneath the roofspoiler) used for the gear shifting is increadibly simple and works very well. The chassis is very stiff. the car can easily be lifted from the roof without damaging anything. To open the bonnet, you need to tilt and pull it at the same time. The LBG pin/axle connector slides trough the 5L axle with stop when you pull the bonnet. This system was necessary, beceause othewise the bonnet would have interference with the dashboard. Like in most of my other builds, I pay a lot of attention to the interior. I never want mechanisms visible or motors inside. You will find many details in the interior, like a handbrake, steering wheel, gear lever and door handles. When you pull the red part in the center up, the buwizz turns on/off. Too bad that the center dail which is placed upside down though. The seats can be ajsuted forwards and backwards by rotating the tan 20th gear. It is a very simple setup consting of a few gears, a worm screw and a 1x7 technic gearrack on which the seats are mounted. The building proces may be very interesting to read (if you have not seen it yet). Many interisting ideas and suggestions were posted that are not shown in this model. For instance, it should originally feature (air)suspension, but due to the airleaks and absence of differentials, it couldn't take corners propelry enough. Thanks to everyone who helped me with this build! You can check it out here: I wanted to make a video of it today, but my buwizz onstantly cut off power so give me a few more days... I won't make instructions, beceause I am busy working on intructions of another model which I will show this year as well. I hope you like it. Comments, feedback and constructive critisism are as always highly appreciated!
  15. Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41896c04#T=S&O={"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated!
  16. Good Day everyone! After completing MPATEV-01 (video&LDD file coming soon) and not able to progress on Saber, decided to build something from my bucket list. And there was 8258 B. After a somewhat boring build process the final result was not very satisfying, so my first idea was to motorise it. However keeping the model as it is would be extremely boring, so the whole chassis and rear part were dismantled, leaving only the front, bonnet and hoods . Next a 4X4 (AWD probably but you've been clickbaited mwahahah ) with open diffs was made. No reduction from the XL motor but the one in-between driveshaft and diffs. On front there are two gray (old gray - undetermined type) springs and on the rear a leaf axle out of 9l links (idea by ZBLJ). Of course that horrendously enormous fake motor was kicked out and substituted with a cute mini V8. Interior is as crude as the original but now with even less foot space and a switch under the dashboard. Steering through M motor and hockey spring combo, M motor-powered winch controlled with the LBG connector on dashboard. For power I opted for a "classic" PF receiver and custom wired 9V battery neatly fixed with a net in the bed. Overall not the best performance but it's quick yet (relatively) powerful. Front winch is detacheable to improve climbing angle (approximately 50 degrees maximum). I haven't named it a MOD because most of it was made from zero, and the N2 is because this is a successor to one of my early RC MOCs - pickup N1 https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/127500-moc-4x4-off-road-pickup-n1/ (my imitation of 9398 as I couldn't afford one and still can't) LDD file DOWNLOAD Video: (sorry it's 30° outside, batteries died and I ain't frying myself 2 times for some offroading outside ) Have a nice weekend, Cya later!
  17. Hello there again! Having no fresh ideas for the TC16 model at all, decided to give a go with a new project. After seeing T Lego's amazing small size cars, the objective was crystal-clear. (relatively) small size, AWD, gearbox, fake engine - classic supercar basically. i started with a 1/12 model, but 56x28ZRs were perfect for a 1/11 model, so I gave in to a slightly bigger scale. Scaled using Sariel's amazing scaler basing myself off a Lamborghini Gallardo LP550. The outcome is 21 studs wide, 29 studs in-between wheels. So just like last time, sketch time! I'm not a fan of modern cars, so I tried looking up older 90's - 00's supercars for design elements, such as vents reminding shark gills and curvy, flowing lines. -Technical design Building a small scale independent suspension is no challenge at all, but add drive&steering and some limitations quickly appear. One of the main problems are the enormous cardan and CV joints that take up 3-6 studs, then the titanic 3-stud wide diff with some bracing and you're off to 1/10 or 1/8 scale. Now, using Nico71's method and applying some unusual design this axle was born: LDD FILE DOWNLOAD No matter the number of times people tell how good new hubs are, personally I find the old ones the best out there for compact MOCs. Being only 3 studs tall, they allow for super slim suspension, something that allows me to have a frame underneath them to serve as a base and to tilt the wishbones out of the way of the differential. Now, the main drawback is the suspension travel of only 1 - 1'5 studs, but for a supercar with 1 stud of ground clearance this is more than enough. My first prototype was even smaller - at just 19 studs wide, but the steering was way too high and too jerky, one of the reasons to go with a 1/11 scale. Wishbone geometry is even LDD legal, steering is off by a milimeter or two - close enough. Rear axle is a simplified version of this with standard wishbone direction. In regards of transmission, I currently have in mind an old school 4 speed manual, maybe a 4 speed sequential, driving a mini v10 - based off my own design used in the unimog WIP (with 4274 as pistons driven by technic cams) Suspension is currently missing from all wheels, but it'll be a matter of a few parts and should be done in the upcoming update. Cya later!
  18. Hey guys, here's a project I've recently started working on. It's been a while since I built anything as I've been quite busy for the past couple months. Anyways, this will be a supercar project. My 4th supercar so far, hence the name "Supercar IV". To be honest I've run out of creative names after giving "Red Beryl GT" to my BrickFair 2018 MOC, so I'm happy to take suggestions if any of you have a better name in mind. From the photos below this may seem like a mere rebuild of my Red Beryl GT, but this MOC comes with several upgrades: A 4WD drive system A 4-speed gearbox, controlled remotely This will be my first supercar to contain such features, and if everything turns out well this could be my most mechanically advanced supercar MOC up to date. The presence of a 4WD system makes it easy to install a 4-speed gearbox, as I took advantage of the two gears of different sizes on the old differential serving as a central differential. I wished that I was able to make the shifting mechanism smaller or use a stepper mechanism for it, but a stepper mechanism is a bit too big and complex to fit in the available space and there is too much structure around the gearbox to make the shifting mechanism any smaller. Although the mechanism appears obstructive as of now, building seats and a roof over it should help conceal it. I am also planning on installing Brickstuff LEDs to this MOC, as well as potentially adding a 4th motorized functions (such as motorized doors or a motorized rear wing). If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. EDIT: I've decided to name the MOC "Red Beryl X", as it's essentially an upgraded sequel to my Red Beryl GT. Photos:
  19. Dear folks, Don't know if this forum is in need of 'yet another AWD front steering', but decided to post it anyway since it may have some interesting features to share: - Compact 5 stud high modular design - Strong, double suspension per arm - Embedded cross block, to prevent bending axles - Adjustable steering arms to enable toe-in and toe-out (and as a side effect, prevents damage when crashing) - Ready for (2.4 GHz RC) servo steering ;) I needed a flat front module to fit my chassis, but didn't want to use the 'old' 3 stud high Wheel Hub (50301). It simply has too much friction in the turns and breaks too easily. Furthermore I wanted to use the universal joint (61903) in stead of the cardan cup (92906). Since I'm putting significant torque on these joints, and it turns out the universal joint is much stronger. However, this does requires the wheel arms to pivot 1 stud wider than using the standard config. Using the 5 stud high 11949 front wheel bearing and bound to a maximum height, I needed a way to fit suspension within this height. Very happy with the result. Anyway, have a look if you're interested. Happy to hear if anything can be improved. https://www.flickr.com/photos/153697698@N03/sets/72157695812709340
  20. Hello All! This post is updated with new video: Today I want to present my new MOC – SUV Racer! AWD, independent suspension, four buggy motors (slow output), 52 x 24 x 19 cm, total weight – 2.5 kg. No universal joints, no diffs, no S-brick :) True action: Photos: Short movie about my trip with this model: Thanks for watching!
  21. A Differential Locking is designed to overcome the chief limitation of a standard open differential by essentially "locking" both wheels on an axle together as if on a common shaft. This forces both wheels to turn in unison, regardless of the traction available to either wheel individually. My Video: before 6'50" is talking about knowledge in animation, after 6'50" is model show. Front Differential Locking Rear Differential Locking Central Differential Locking Full-Time AWD systems drive both front and rear axles at all times via a center (inter-axle) differential. The torque split of that differential may be fixed or variable depending on the type of center differential. This system can be used on any surface at any speed. Part-Time AWD systems require driver intervention to couple and decouple the secondary axle from the primarily driven axle and these systems do not have a center differential. On-Demand AWD systems drive the secondary axle via an active or passive coupling device or "by an independently powered drive system". The standard notes that in some cases the secondary drive system may also provide the primary vehicle propulsion. On-demand systems function primarily with only one powered axle until torque is required by the second axle. At that point either a passive or active coupling sends torque to the secondary axle.
  22. UPDATE: Thanks to an amazing effort by Thorsten Spelz full-blown building instructions are now available on Rebrickable! UPDATE: I updated building directions to reflect some improvements to the front suspension. See entry #30 of this topic. Hello, I started a topic on my 'Steppenwolf'-project before, but that post feels a little bit like a false start by now. At that stage I only had digital ideas and there where some correct critiques about the designs I showed, especially about the custom wheel hubs. Since than I thoroughly redesigned the front and rear suspension and about a month ago I started building my 'Steppenwolf'-chassis. Now I have come to a point to show the first 'real life' results and I would like to use this topic to show progress and to elaborate further on specific parts of the concept. First of all it was a real sensation to start building with real bricks after 25 years of not 'playing' with lego. To show a little bit of where I come from when it comes to Lego Technic: this is my last build from about 25 years ago: https://bricksafe.co...jpg/800x600.jpg https://bricksafe.co...jpg/800x600.jpg With the 'Steppenwolf'-project I aim for an AWD platform that can serve as the base of a push-along car. It is meant to fit 'ordinary' AWD cars rather than Baya truck-like vehicles. The platform combines all-wheel-drive with Ackermann steering, progressive camber angle, caster angle, kingpin inclination, 4 stud suspension travel and 5 stud clearance (with 94.8 x 44 R balloon tire). As suspension and drive characteristics have the main focus in this design, I prefer not to see these characteristics being affected by a too flexible chassis. I want a rigid chassis that does not twist too much while riding on an uneven surface. All these ideas resulted in a platform that has been built up from three main modules; the front module, the center module and the rear module. These main modules incorporate the complete drive train, including front axles, rear axles and (5+R) gearbox. The gearbox is based on Boratko's 5+R AWD gearbox and has been extended with a center differential lock. The platform has been completed with three secondary modules; a v12 engine, a steering console and finally two car seats that can move and tilt. The engine can be placed at the front or at the back of the chassis. The seats have been inspired by the car seats as can be found in Nathanaël Kuipers' Concept 4x4 and have been extended with the ability to move back and forth. Both front and rear suspension are independent and based on the double wishbone concept with a longitudinal torsion bar attached to the lower wishbone, see the image below. This weekend I have been able to actually combine the various modules of my build and I'm quite happy with the results. Here are some pictures and a short preview video. Ackermann steering: For the front suspension the shock absorber is directly attached to the lower suspension arm which has been placed up-side-down to avoid it from getting detached from the wheel hub: At the bottom of this picture you can see how the outer end of the longitudinal torsion bar has been fixed to the chassis: Once more a front suspension close-up: The rear suspension is also a double wishbone suspension with longitudinal torsion bars. Instead of using cusps and balls it uses normal axles and liftarms. Each wheel hub is stabalized firmly with two stabilizing links: Both front and rear wheel hubs are based on a setup that allows the lower suspension liftarm to be placed upside down while leaving enough space for the U-joint attached to the wheel axle (5.5 with end stop) to support 4 stud suspension travel: 5 stud clearance: More photo's can be found here: https://bricksafe.co...progress-images And finally here is a short preview video showing the suspension: I'm very curious what you all think of this. My next step will be to build the body work and I will report on that in this topic. I also plan to post some extra details on the front and rear modules of this design - if there is any interest. I might even share lxf-files containing construction directions for these modules (sofar I didn't plan to make real building instructions, but when the whole thing is finished and when there is enough interest, I might decide to put in the effort). Thanks so far! Diederik EDIT: Building directions for the complete chassis may now be found here: http://bricksafe.com...ding-directions
  23. Hello, I would like to show you a prototype of a torque distribution system for AWD cars. I made this because I am currently waiting for parts for my WRC car and when I thought about my next MOC I decided, that it should not be a rally car again, but still a motorsport vehicle and still have AWD, so i came across AWD touring cars. Among others, that also made it on the future moc list, the Nissan Skyline GTR R32 Group A came to my mind. Even though this car and especially its successors are a little "overhyped", it features an interesting AWD system, called ATTESA ETS. Basically it is a RWD drivetrain with a PTO to the front axle, connected by a multiplate clutch. This clutch is controlled by an ECU and steering, yaw, throttle and wheelspeed sensors. As I do not have any Mindstorms parts, I decided to use pneumatics to mimic the original system. How it works: The L-motor represents the normal RWD drivetrain as powersource. Yellow +o+ part represents front axle driveshaft. The differential is used as a clutch, when the diff housing is braked, torque will be transmitted to front axle. Braking is done by an 1x4 L-Beam that is pressed on an axle with a pinion gear. This pinion gear meshes with diff housing. Whenever the motor/driveshaft rotates, the pneumatic pumps are working, but the resistance is low, as long as the pneumatic valves do not seal the pneumatic system (air/pressure can escape). The valves are meant to be mechanical connected to throttle pedal and steering. When they are closed by throttle or steering input (or lack of it), the pressure increases and the cylinders press against the L-Beam. When pressure decreases again, the springs retract the cylinders. The pinion gear with friction pin is there for demonstration purpose (resistance at front axle). Video for demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rctAZeHzsLs Maybe the new 2h2018 pneumatic valves will be useful in this case (better implementation, more precise). Of course the playability of this feature will be limited, especially as I am planning to make the vehicle non RC, but a normal AWD would be too boring. I hope you like it, its not very advanced but a little different to the usual AWD systems arround.
  24. Hello all, I have a question regarding torque distribution in all wheel drive system. Maybe someone with better knowledge could help me. I cannot build right now, so I am not able to see if it works. Let's say I would like to implement torque vectoring to the drivetrain - more torque to the rear wheels and less torque to the front ones. Am I correct that I should gear down the axle coming out from the center differential to the rear axle and gear up the axle to the front axle? Won't the wheels slip because of different rotational speed? Thank you!
  25. "The Pursuit of Perfection" - slogan of the Lexus brand. I'm now back with my greatest Lego creation ever. A 2010 Lexus GX 460 with EV3. It's a replica of my Dad's car, but this one's in gray with black interior. I made it as much as I could to the real car, thanks to pieces from the Arocs and Porsche set. Features Sariel's 4-speed sequential gearbox controlled by a medium motor All-wheel-drive Independent suspension Rack-and-pinion steering Fake V8 engine Six seats (could not fit a seventh one) with the rear four being foldable Opening side doors, trunk door, and hood. Detailed interior The gearbox and the two differentials in the car like to click while moving (especially on rough terrain) around, but the result was a car that was heavy, slow, but also makes lots of torque. I'm very happy with how this car came out and I couldn't have done it without all of the helpful people on the Lego community and EuroBricks. Thanks especially to my good friend TheMindGarage for never making me give up. Now I can officially call myself a true master builder. Check out this build on my EV3 community account too for more photos and information about it. I would love to make a YouTube video soon about the features of the GX EV3 and footage of me taking this build on some dirt trails in a park. I also want to take a picture of this right next to my Dad's actual car. So please follow this post to check out some stuff I might upload in the future! To finish this post, here's some collages with photos of the GX EV3.