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Found 30 results

  1. "The Pursuit of Perfection" - slogan of the Lexus brand. I'm now back with my greatest Lego creation ever. A 2010 Lexus GX 460 with EV3. It's a replica of my Dad's car, but this one's in gray with black interior. I made it as much as I could to the real car, thanks to pieces from the Arocs and Porsche set. Features Sariel's 4-speed sequential gearbox controlled by a medium motor All-wheel-drive Independent suspension Rack-and-pinion steering Fake V8 engine Six seats (could not fit a seventh one) with the rear four being foldable Opening side doors, trunk door, and hood. Detailed interior The gearbox and the two differentials in the car like to click while moving (especially on rough terrain) around, but the result was a car that was heavy, slow, but also makes lots of torque. I'm very happy with how this car came out and I couldn't have done it without all of the helpful people on the Lego community and EuroBricks. Thanks especially to my good friend TheMindGarage for never making me give up. Now I can officially call myself a true master builder. Check out this build on my EV3 community account too for more photos and information about it. I would love to make a YouTube video soon about the features of the GX EV3 and footage of me taking this build on some dirt trails in a park. I also want to take a picture of this right next to my Dad's actual car. So please follow this post to check out some stuff I might upload in the future! To finish this post, here's some collages with photos of the GX EV3.
  2. I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
  3. It's a monster truck with a 4x4 trasmission and 2 speed gearbox powered by a SBrick. This MOC is very powerful because the first gear generates a great gear ratio. The chassis is simply and very strong and the suspensions are attacked to him. I couldn't use the "large hard shock absorbers" because i haven't them, so i used the "small soft shock absorbers". I added a V6 working motor, a rear openig hatch, and lights too! These pictures above are of the old version, in fact the axles and the position of the SBrick in the images are different from the current ones (below). The differential is removable to ensure more traction. The gearbox is very compact and strong (on that I worked a lot of time). The green axle is the input, while the red one is the output: the yellow gears are interested for the first gear and the blue ones for the second gear. The first gear has a gear ratio of 5:1 (very powerful), while the second gear has a gear ratio of 3.3:1 (balanced). The gear ratios were calculated by adding the gear ratio of the all transmission system, ie 3.3. And this is the outdoor video! I hope you enjoy my MOC! Leave a comment and a Like! ;)
  4. Nimr Ajban SOV was created as a result of the development of the chassis that I built to test the steering system based on parts from the 42055 excavator. The problem is the width of this solution which limits the use of the chassis even at a scale of 1: 8. Therefore, from the beginning I was looking for inspiration among military vehicles. However, these are usually heavily armored and i was afraid that the ready model will be too heavy. When I hit the NIMR Automotive products from Abu Dhabi, I immediately caught a glimpse of AJBAN special operations vehicle. It had the right width, desert camouflage, proper tires and an open body. The cool aggressive design of the bodywork fit well to technic parts, especially since I have a lot of yellow panels. Initially I had plans to equip it with a winch, a machine gun, working steering wheel, and other extras. But soon it turned out that without it the weight is approaching 4 kg and the model becomes sluggish. So I gave calm and I thought of Arnold passing through sunny California in his Hummer. Why would not the Sheikans have been able to bring their falcons to the wilderness with a civilian version of AJBAN. The model does not have any special offroad performance, but on flat surface it is quite speedy. The advantage is that there are no moving parts, so if Lego had strong motors of similar size, it could be a fast vehicle. Drive 4 x PF L Turn 1 x PF L Power 2 x PF Battery Pack Tires. MIL-SPEC ZXL 2.2 "TIRES (130 mm) Full Gallery http://bricksafe.com/pages/samolot/nimr-ajban
  5. The second of my three MOC's, the Audi TT. Again, apologies for the photo's. The TT is one of my favorite cars, and I've tried to capture the design as best I can. This one has the following features: - Full independent suspension. - 6 + N + R sequential gearbox (design by liftingbricks), driven by a porsche flappy paddles. - All wheel drive and five cylinder engine. - Opening doors, bonnet and trunk. You can see more on my Flickr IMG_20170528_140525 by Russell Murphy, on Flickr IMG_20170528_140510 by Russell Murphy, on Flickr IMG_20170528_140649 by Russell Murphy, on Flickr
  6. Hello all, I have a question regarding torque distribution in all wheel drive system. Maybe someone with better knowledge could help me. I cannot build right now, so I am not able to see if it works. Let's say I would like to implement torque vectoring to the drivetrain - more torque to the rear wheels and less torque to the front ones. Am I correct that I should gear down the axle coming out from the center differential to the rear axle and gear up the axle to the front axle? Won't the wheels slip because of different rotational speed? Thank you!
  7. Good Day. I present to you my biggest MOC ever - a futuristic dakar truck. This is a project I have started back in February to make it in time to the arrrival of BuWizz , or that is what I had planned. For propulsion it is using only one buggy motor , what isn't the best idea because the motor ends overheating. But it is possible to install a second buggy motor with a bit of chassis re-design. To fill a bit the huge truck, I installed a X16 engine- courtesy of ZBLJ. The steering uses 1x m-motor , without any return-to-center mechanism thanks to the precise control with the BuWizz brick. The outside design was heavily inspired by 00's sets ( specially 8466) , and I included gull-wing doors with mini linear actuators . m-motors can be installed easily to motorize that function too, but I used two knobs on top of the cabin . The interior was kept simple - two bucket seats and a dashboard. I already shoot some footage , so a video will come soon. For now , here are some photos. 2017-04-30_05-28-06 by Alaxaf, on Flickr
  8. I've been starting on the bodywork and have added a quick clip of a flush mounted door mechanism. I'll periodically add bits until it's done, enjoy (Above pic is a link to video) This is my current supercar WIP. It has fully independent suspension, torsion bar, cantilevered front, typical rear, and sway bars. steering with attached steering wheel one servo, drive 2x XL, custom miniature V12 engine on an AWD chassis with a remote driven four speed sequential gearbox powered by an M motor. Race jacks with remote compressor, adjustable rear wing, tilt steering wheel, pedals with feedback, adjustable with single lever tilt and slide seats. Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUraaNt Flush mounted door hinge operation by Dugald Cameron, on Flickr Let me know what you think! Video edit and teardown to follow!
  9. I'm back with my latest model, a lifted bugeye Subaru chopped into a ute! Subarute by VKTechnic, on Flickr First off, the features: Remote control drive with 3-diff AWD, central differential lock through a lever in the cabin, and fake boxer 6 engine Remote control steering with linked steering wheel Opening air-shock hood, doors, and liftgate, all with latching mechanisms Headlights, foglights, and taillights, with an in-cabin switch for foglights Fully adjustable seats, with under-seat lever to move seat forward and back Front McPherson strut and rear trailing arm pneumatic suspension Custom flags representing Axial (maker of the Ripsaw 1.9 tires) and Mighty Car Mods (the main inspiration for the car) Subarute by VKTechnic, on Flickr This model was a fun one for me. After seeing what Mighty Car Mods could do to a 2002 Subaru WRX wagon in less than 3 days, I wanted to take my own spin on the Subaru ute concept. The first main challenge was suspension, as I had to design a McPherson strut with drive, and the rear trailing arm suspension was completely new to me. I did have to compromise -- using CV joints in the suspension meant I could get everything compact, but the off-road performance tanked. Definitely a little disappointing, but I think I made up for it with all the other fun features. Subarute by VKTechnic, on Flickr Every opening feature of the model has a latch on it. The hood has an air shock, and can be released from the driver's side footwell. Door handles were based off an old design by Nicjasno (aka LPEPower), which I managed to slim down to fit within 2 studs of the door panel. The tailgate latch is probably the least realistic since it's activated from the inside of the bed, but I mainly did this to keep the continuity of the bodywork. Subarute by VKTechnic, on Flickr The seats were also something new for me, and it's an area I've struggled with in past models. I did manage to make these seats fully adjustable, with a lever under the seat to slide them forward and backward. Aside from that, the cabin also has a lever to lock the central diff, and a switch for the front foglights. Subarute by VKTechnic, on Flickr Overall, I'm happy with how the model turned out. I think I captured the bugeye look fairly well, and all the manual functions were fun to try out. Of course, it is disappointing that the model didn't perform too well off-road, but I can say for sure that my next model will destroy everything off-road! P.S. I did make a video of the functions, thought it would be short but it turned out to be almost 10 minutes. Enjoy!
  10. Hi Fellas, I've built a gearbox for 4x4 vehicles and it is rather space efficient. Hope you find it usefull. As usual, I'm being lazy and copy-paste the video description as it has all the basic info. Please feel free to ask, judge, or comment and I try to give my best in the reply It is rather small, I'd love to claim that it is the smallest of it's kind. (but I'm not sure, so I don't say that yet.) Help me find out. Dimensions: L: 7 studs W: 9 studs H: 5 studs Comes with the usual gear ratios: 1st gear 8/24 x 16/24 2nd gear 8/24 x 16/16 3rd gear 16/24 4th gear 16/16 The selector lever required some attention as the upper axles are 5 stud apart. I've been using some rare parts there: -Technic Ball Joint with Through Axle Hole http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53585#T=C -Bar 4L (Lightsaber Blade / Wand) http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30374&idColor=16#T=C&C=16 However this lever mechanism can do the shifting quite well, it still not "stupidproof" and need some attention while changing gears. The frame (housing) First. It is made so colorfull to help you dear watcher separate the parts on the video. For motorized version I recommend to rebuild the housing using studded technic parts. Input/Output Outputs are self-explanatory, two red axle ends sticking out from the differential. The input in the other hand is the axle with the 8tooth gear on the front. It is offset by 2 studs, but using a pair of gears it can be transfered to the center too. Whats more, it can be done on the front as well as on the rear side. Thank for your attention
  11. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. LXF-file of the full-featured version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. LXF-file of the chassis-only version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).
  12. Based on the Mercedes-Benz G500 Cabriolet design, and carried out a more radical modification. Two L motor drive, one servo motor steering, four-wheel drive, remote control. Using two special parts, one is above the 42043 logo, and the other is x85 (lamp bowl). Rear bumper design is still in the adjustment. http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/430479 http://ein.cc
  13. Since my brother has started helping me with my supercars, he has wanted to get his own lego an build something original. Not copy anyone, just sit down and build without any guide, support or reference. I helped with the bodywork of this car, but the entire frame was created by my bro. This car features AWD, working steering wheel, custom door lock, working pistons on the V8, large 42000 wheels and independent suspension. Many features were torn completely apart to recreate. I'm posting photos for now because its 3:30am and need to get some sleep Weight: 1.9 kg (4.1 pounds) Size: 29 wide x 65 long x 16 high. Video:
  14. Hello! The topic is updated with new video: I’d like to show my Dodge T-Rex off-roader in new style. I call it Friends edition :) Its main feature is a turtle on the hood. Also the model has AWD and all-wheel steering. One XL for drive and two M-motors for independent steering. Thanks for watching! I hope you like it )
  15. UPDATE: Thanks to an amazing effort by Thorsten Spelz full-blown building instructions are now available on Rebrickable! UPDATE: I regard my Steppenwolf build as finished. Here's a short video of the final result: EDIT: Jump to reply #37 for real-life images... Request for opinion: For my Steppenwolf-project I'm about to order the parts that I need for the bodywork. However, I'm still in doubt about the color. So I thought maybe you can help me decide. My options are red and black. I know white is trending as Blakbird rightly noted, but this is not a supercar and some of the parts I need are simply not available in white. I started of with favouring red, but black is gradually gaining terrain. What would you favour?
  16. UPDATE: Thanks to an amazing effort by Thorsten Spelz full-blown building instructions are now available on Rebrickable! UPDATE: I updated building directions to reflect some improvements to the front suspension. See entry #30 of this topic. Hello, I started a topic on my 'Steppenwolf'-project before, but that post feels a little bit like a false start by now. At that stage I only had digital ideas and there where some correct critiques about the designs I showed, especially about the custom wheel hubs. Since than I thoroughly redesigned the front and rear suspension and about a month ago I started building my 'Steppenwolf'-chassis. Now I have come to a point to show the first 'real life' results and I would like to use this topic to show progress and to elaborate further on specific parts of the concept. First of all it was a real sensation to start building with real bricks after 25 years of not 'playing' with lego. To show a little bit of where I come from when it comes to Lego Technic: this is my last build from about 25 years ago: https://bricksafe.co...jpg/800x600.jpg https://bricksafe.co...jpg/800x600.jpg With the 'Steppenwolf'-project I aim for an AWD platform that can serve as the base of a push-along car. It is meant to fit 'ordinary' AWD cars rather than Baya truck-like vehicles. The platform combines all-wheel-drive with Ackermann steering, progressive camber angle, caster angle, kingpin inclination, 4 stud suspension travel and 5 stud clearance (with 94.8 x 44 R balloon tire). As suspension and drive characteristics have the main focus in this design, I prefer not to see these characteristics being affected by a too flexible chassis. I want a rigid chassis that does not twist too much while riding on an uneven surface. All these ideas resulted in a platform that has been built up from three main modules; the front module, the center module and the rear module. These main modules incorporate the complete drive train, including front axles, rear axles and (5+R) gearbox. The gearbox is based on Boratko's 5+R AWD gearbox and has been extended with a center differential lock. The platform has been completed with three secondary modules; a v12 engine, a steering console and finally two car seats that can move and tilt. The engine can be placed at the front or at the back of the chassis. The seats have been inspired by the car seats as can be found in Nathanaël Kuipers' Concept 4x4 and have been extended with the ability to move back and forth. Both front and rear suspension are independent and based on the double wishbone concept with a longitudinal torsion bar attached to the lower wishbone, see the image below. This weekend I have been able to actually combine the various modules of my build and I'm quite happy with the results. Here are some pictures and a short preview video. Ackermann steering: For the front suspension the shock absorber is directly attached to the lower suspension arm which has been placed up-side-down to avoid it from getting detached from the wheel hub: At the bottom of this picture you can see how the outer end of the longitudinal torsion bar has been fixed to the chassis: Once more a front suspension close-up: The rear suspension is also a double wishbone suspension with longitudinal torsion bars. Instead of using cusps and balls it uses normal axles and liftarms. Each wheel hub is stabalized firmly with two stabilizing links: Both front and rear wheel hubs are based on a setup that allows the lower suspension liftarm to be placed upside down while leaving enough space for the U-joint attached to the wheel axle (5.5 with end stop) to support 4 stud suspension travel: 5 stud clearance: More photo's can be found here: https://bricksafe.co...progress-images And finally here is a short preview video showing the suspension: I'm very curious what you all think of this. My next step will be to build the body work and I will report on that in this topic. I also plan to post some extra details on the front and rear modules of this design - if there is any interest. I might even share lxf-files containing construction directions for these modules (sofar I didn't plan to make real building instructions, but when the whole thing is finished and when there is enough interest, I might decide to put in the effort). Thanks so far! Diederik EDIT: Building directions for the complete chassis may now be found here: http://bricksafe.com...ding-directions
  17. Hi, In a push-along car that I'm building, I'm using Boratko's 5+R AWD gearbox and I'm running into problems when putting the gearbox into reverse. I have an AWD setup with three differentials, the center differential is part of the AWD gearbox. The front and rear differentials each drive a 20 tooth double bevel gear which in turns drives a 12 tooth double bevel gear attached to the gearbox output axle. So the overall output-wheel ratio is 28:12. I can push the car without problems in all forward gears, but when I put the gearbox into reverse, the 20 tooth double bevel gears and differentials start slipping. When I separate the gearbox from the rest of the car and drive it by hand, I can also feal much more resistance in reverse. In gears 1 to 5 everything feels very smooth. As far as I understand, the different resistance between forward gears and reverse is mainly because of the fact that in reverse 5 of the 6 gears with clutch turn against their axles and in gears 1-5 only one gear with clutch turns against its axle. Now my question is: Is this normal behaviour or am I doing something wrong? And what can I do to make the gears with clutch turn against their axles with less resistance? And a separate question: Appearantly the transfer between the differential and the 20 tooth double bevel gear is the weakest point in my drive train. They are placed in a static transfer box and in a normal arrangement with the double bevel gear placed orthogonal to the differential. Still the differential can move quite a lot. So my question is: Is there a better way to transfer drive to the differential? Hope someone can give me some directions. Thanks! Diederik
  18. Hello all! Today I want to show you my new MOC. I’ve started to construct this off-roader after trial competition in Moscow. It’s stylized as Dodge T-Rex 6x6 but it wasn’t a target to create precise copy. It was not too simple to create bright-green body :) There is one XL-motor for propulsion and two M-motors for steering (independent steering for front and rear wheels). I hope I’ll test it on the real track in the next competition and now let’s watch test-drive: More photos: Bottom view: Thanks for watching!
  19. Hello all! I want to show my modification of Toyota FJ40 (designed by RM8). We needed a tow truck for Moscow competition and I had only one weekend to create this model. The result is promising but it needs some improvements because the rear cardan shaft is very unreliable. The model is controlled with SBrick. To be continued :) So lets watch the movie: And photos: Thanks for watching!
  20. Hi everyone! Today I want to share my new creation - Lego Technic Subaru Forester Specifications: SBrick for remote control 2 L motors on four wheel drive Servo motor on steering LED lights Small battery box Boxer engine Fully functional body More detailed model can be found in my blog
  21. Hallo, I'm working on AWD RC Supercar. Front wheels are driven per Differential, which is connected per CV Joints to Steering Arms with 4 Ball Joints (All parts from 8070 Supercar). The problem is that I want big steering angle. When I reach maximum steering angle, there is in CV Joint by wheel hub so big friction, that wheel will be braked and stopped, what slowers the whole car by cornering. Is there any other solution then CV or U Joints? It's a 1:10 supercar, so not much room for big options... :-/ Thanx, Max Supercars
  22. Hello All! This post is updated with new video: Today I want to present my new MOC – SUV Racer! AWD, independent suspension, four buggy motors (slow output), 52 x 24 x 19 cm, total weight – 2.5 kg. No universal joints, no diffs, no S-brick :) True action: And a few photos: Short movie about my trip with this model: Thanks for watching!
  23. Hi Lego Technic enthusiasts I'm new at this Forum and wanted to show you my Lego Technic Tumbler. Tell me if I did something wrong with the post/sections/whatever! :P I've seen lots of Tumblers on Youtube, but I'm quite shure that no one built an AWD-version. So this is what came out after three months of studying how this could be possible. Due to school I couldn't spend much time with building, I think in total I had about 30 hours. -Key idea: Using the old flex system for the steering -Weight: 1400 grams (without battery box) -Length: 42 cm -Width: 24 cm -Suspension -AWD -Shooting cannons at the sides -rockets that you can swing out -LEDs -RC -No slipping gears, perhaps I should have used two XL-motors Just watch the film on youtube: Thanks for reading! :)
  24. Hi, I organized contest "Trophy 4x4" at our russian language Technic community (vk.com/technic_club). It is at final voting stage. Dont wanna translate all the rules, but main rules are below: Contestants shoul build technic offroader. No cosmic design. Common rules: - AWD - body whidth - 15-17 studs - axle width between rims - 14-16 studs - Wheels can be from 62 to 83. two main discpilines: 1) Standart. You should build your car using reference chassis 4x4, instructiuon is available. Changes of this chassis should be minimal. But you can adjust wheelbase and middle part. Pf is not mandatory, but you should leave free place for it. Mainly design contest. 2) PRO You can build any chassis you want 4x4 or 6x6. PF and demo video is mandatory. For advanced builders who dont want to be limited by simple refence chassis. Author name should be a secret till the end of contest. Authors age is frrm 12 to 30. So dont be too critical:) Here I will post some photos of finalists and info about models. Links to full gallery will be below. You will not find any unique and new ideas below, cause main idea of contest was to create offroaders in similar scale and with real-look design (no copy). STANDART №1 - Trophy Truck 1 XL + 1 М Manual winch, fake engine https://plus.google....66583677/photos №2 - Pickup IP SUV 1 L motor + M motor Roof behind the cab is detachable https://plus.google....723461192701041 №3 - Expedition-Van 2х L motors, M-motor, L motor for winches front and rear motorized winches with gearbox in the middle. Fake V6. Openable doors. LED front and rear lamps https://plus.google....725666702750977 №4 - 1938 Raven HotRod ХЛ + М - motors working fake engine detailed saloon and opneable doors https://plus.google....721786115365745 №6 - Road car for active life L + М motors openable doors and trunk https://plus.google....721881213180289 №11 - Carston Hawk 2х L + servo Opnable hood, doors and trunk https://plus.google....723966591953649
  25. Hi, few months ago I've submitted here GEN1 offroader, and I promised the second generation with many improvements - so, here it is ;) (GEN1 topic: http://www.eurobrick...52#entry1806014) 1+1XL (independent propulsion for each axle, 2*M, 1*V1 reciever, 1*V2 reciever, 1*Li-Po Battery. Youtube: Flickr (model): http://flic.kr/s/aHsjUeaFrB Flickr (disassembling): http://flic.kr/s/aHsjUetNAQ LDD of chassis is also availible.