Eurobricks Vassals
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About Anto

  • Birthday 02/02/2001

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    Karting, bicycle, mecanic and Lego, of course


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  1. I have already made drift cars, and the best tires are these ones: If you have never seen my gymkhanas, look at them and see what's possible: With these tires, you must make small MOCs, so you can have a lot of power for a little weight, so that helps to have a nervous vehicle. And the shape of the tires helps, you have enough grip to control the car, but they slip if the power is sufficient. With these tires, you don't need to use tape or anything else on the tires; make a good chassis and drift! (But that needs a lot of development, around 6 months of work and lots and lots of modifications for the last one! ^^)
  2. While waiting to make the video of a new MOC, I'm working again on this project! (finally) So I have restarted this project at a smaller scale. When I have seen Nico71's new Citroën 2CV, I have thought that this scale could be good for my project. And I have never worked on a car at this scale, so I wanted to try this. The functions are almost the same as for the first version: Steering with the headlights turning with the wheels Adjustable pneumatic suspensions Openable hood, trunk and doors At this scale, obviously I can't keep the gearbox and the working fake engine. Actually, you can see a really nice color vomit. I thought it would be possible to make the bodywork in dark azure, but the flex don't exist in this color. So it will be orange or white (I just need to change the panels on bottom of the front doors). As the scale is really small, I couldn't make a suspension system with shock absorbers + a system to adjust the height of the chassis. So I use mini pneumatic cylinders and they work as shock absorbers (this way it's closer to the system of the real car). And there, you can see the rack used to move the wheels and the headlights: To be continued...
  3. @nerdsforprez : I can't check on the same step because the instructions have been generated differently for me; but I think that you speak about the bracket moving the pneumatic switch in the cab, It's to choose the output of the air (by moving the pneumatic switch) to move the clamp (or another tool).
  4. I'm glad you like my MOC! It looks nice in blue. I know, but I do LDD files and not real instructions because that take more time, and I prefer spending my time on creating new MOCs. I'm not sure to understand about which part you are speaking. ^^
  5. I had the same issue after crashs, but that was not a problem at all when I drove it (even forward/backward) When I have some free time, I see if I can upgrade the axle to prevent it from disconnecting from the rest of the chassis. @Permo : haha
  6. The LDD file is finally available on Rebrickable!
  7. Thanks! I finish the LDD file when I have time for that, and then I tell you when the file is available.
  8. I totally agree @rm8. I think it's not possible to do a top 10 with this system. (And it's for this reason that on Eurobricks, the new members registred after announcing a new contest and who vote are banned from the forum)
  9. The vote is closed and... Do someone think the real 10 best entries are qualified? I don't think. There are problematic "strange" things with the votes: The first has more votes than views on his video. Do do you think the people who have voted have watched all the videos to vote for their favourite entry? In the night of thursday, some entries have got between 70 and 100 votes (It's my case). Personally, I have got 100 votes after 1 week, and in a night I doubled my number of votes. Strange thing, no? It's possible to vote many times. The votes use the IP address of the internet connexion. So if you can change it, you can vote many times. (I don't tried and it's certainly for this reason that I'm not qualified, but I know you can do a robot which votes many times by changing the IP address) Yesterday, after midnight, it was possible to vote anymore. And after midnight the top 10 has changed. In fact, for me, the vote has shown the top 10 of the people who have more friends than the others. Not the top 10 of the videos and MOCs done for the contest.
  10. Thanks! Now it's time to vote. So if you want to support my entry, you know what you have to do...
  11. Thank you! You're right. The U-joint is placed 1 stud behind the pivot point of the linear actuator. So in some positions, as the U-joint is not homocinetic, that causes vibrations when the bucket is not loaded. But I didn't find another way to do this part of the arm. I agree. There is no bucket for the excavators of this scale...
  12. One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC!
  13. I didn't think you'll like this MOC so much. Thanks for the comments ! I have not those sets, so no picture sorry! Yes and no. ^^ The rear 12t gear on the roof allows turning the wheel. But you can also move the rear of the forklift and it will turn because the wheel is not aligned with the vertical axle of the 12t gear - as on a floor jack. Yes I know, but I think at this scale it's not too inconvenient. That gives it an old truck look. I put the MOC on LEGO Ideas, so you can support it if you like it! --> And thanks again for your comments!
  14. Here is a little crew! These two models are very compact, so very simple technically. I wanted to do the same type of model as the little LEGO sets. The forklift: The arm can be moved using a worm gear/8t system. The towballs are here to limit the movement of the system. The fork moves when you turn the 12t gear. There is a pin with friction to keep it in position. The truck is even simpler. It has a steering and the dropsides are openable. The LDD file is available on Rebrickable. And here is the video!
  15. Thanks all for the comments! Yes, I know... The problem is that I needed a gear ratio I can't get with less gears (except the three 8t): 20t/12t is too slow, and 24t/8t or 36t/8t is too high. So I done that, and with the position of the motors (to have something compact) I couldn't do better. It's not to protect the U-joint, it can bear more torque. In fact, the servomotor was not damaged because of this buggy, but because of my RC karting. I though I could remove the dirt from the tires, but it's not so easy, and that is amplified on the pictures. I keep in mind your advice for the next time! I have done a LDD file, you can download it on Rebrickable! -->