Eurobricks Vassals
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About Anto

  • Birthday 02/02/2001

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    Karting, bicycle, mecanic and Lego, of course


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  1. I had not my white background and the orange one is in fact a wall. ^^ And that looks quite nice with the colors of the MOC and the mug as you say, so I did a picture.
  2. Yes of course! Look at that nice mug! It is too cute to use it to drink a cofee.
  3. Wow, I didn't think I could be on the podium with my MOC! Congrats to all the other participants for their entries! And thanks to @Jim and @Milan for organizing contests, even when I don’t participate I like seing what the members do with a same subject.
  4. I have done the LDD file of the new chassis! --> ... s.lxf?dl=0 I uploaded the parts on Bricklink, and this chassis costs around 120€ without delivery.
  5. That's done, I have added 1 other L motor! Now, the chassis is extremely powerful, the wheels always slip! So I removed the freewheel, but the weight balance is better, so the understeering is not a problem. This version is easier to drive. Because of the gain of power, the front wheels are replaced correctly easily, so to drift, you need to steer the front wheels a little bit more. If the wheels are not steered, the car goes straight. There is only one invonvenient: I can't drive it anymore on hardwood floor in Ludicrous mode, because the wheels slip too much. Eh, no! In fact it's an advantage, this chassis will do better drifts on a more rough floor! Here is the LDD file of the V1 of the chassis, with 3 L motors and the feewheel: Mustang Hoonicorn RTR - Ken Block UPDATE.lxf?dl=0 I do the new version when I have the freetime.
  6. Actually, I’m using the BuWizz app with one control for the steering and one other for the driving. I’m trying to control the BuWizz with the BrickController app to have a better precision but I have a manipulation to do with my phone, so I have not tested yet. And I have thought to control the front and rear motors independently, so I’ll see if/how it’s possible, or if it’s possible to give a lower alimentation to the front (for example 100% for the rear and 80% for the front) I don’t have a LEGO lipo BB, but I think the BuWizz has the same weight. In Normal mode, I can drift a little bit with this chassis but only on hardwood floor, so I don’t guarantee that will work with a LEGO battery box and a SBrick, but if you have the parts, that will cost you nothing.
  7. I'm glad you like the car ! The clutch in details: It's not exactly the same I used in the chassis, this version is 1 stud less high, but a little bit less stronger. It's a design from Lego Technic Mastery that I have reinforced. @HorcikDesigns I have no problem with the U joints, however, when the front wheels are totally steered, their rotation is not perfectly smooth. But it's nor a problem at all. @Leonardo da Bricki It's almost done! I have added 1 L motor for the front wheels, and I have removed the freewheel, and the understeering is not a big problem. And now the power is just amazing! Even when the car is at its max speed, the wheels slip. ^^ (In Ludicrous mode) @letsbuild Yes, of course! There will be building instructions when the car will be finished at 100%. :)
  8. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  9. 2. Top Fuel Tractor This MOC is a mix between a tractor, a dragster and a cartoon! It does wheelies as a real powerful dragster, so the anti-roll bar has a real utility. That is its unique real function, but this MOC is very fun! (You can also ajust the spoiler and the bucket) Look at the video! Discussion topic
  10. Up! I almost didn't work at all on the project since my last post, because I was very busy with another MOC. Here is the actual progression: The central joint is no enough stiff, so I'll need to reinforce it. I started the structure of the cab, with its opening. It's really difficult to do. Because to do the design, I need the structure of the cab. For the structure, I must know how the flex, cables, future switchs, pass into the chassis (or cab). And for that, I need the interior, which needs the structure of the cab. Actually, there are some flex and cables. Normally, I need 2 or 3 times more flex, cables and switchs than that it is in the MOC. I placed a pneumatic cylinder for the opening of the cab. The rear part was not too much complex to do.
  11. Thanks! I think it's not a problem. Pimp my tractor!
  12. Hi! That is my entry for the new contest: a tractor mixed with a dragster with a cartoon style! I amplified the shapes of a real tractor: I put huge rear wheels compared to the frond ones, there are 2 big headlights on the front of the hood... The only fonction of this MOC is that it is powered by a pull back motor. (Also, you can move the spoiler because it is fixed with a pin with friction, but that doesn't upgrade the playability) The anti-roll bar has a real utility. Without, the tractor finishes on its roof. The shock absorber is really useful: without, at the acceleration, the drive wheels "jump", they are not in contact with the floor anymore, so the motor is not used at 100%. So actually, the tractor does wheelies smoothly. That's all!
  13. After Thorsten, Jörg Schwarzlaender has done building instructions! So thanks to him! (And thanks again to Thorsten! ^^) He has added numbers to find easily the stickers (but he didn't change the appearance of them), as on the Lego instructions. The instructions The stickers
  14. I have worked a little on the Muli. I have made the structure of the cab. That wasn't easy because of the fact that it is openable, and the pneumatic cylinder has been very hard to place correctly. And I started the front of the cab: To open it, I have placed a second pneumatic pump. With a mechanism, the cab will open itself when you'll push the lever, and also whel you'll pull it, as on the real one.