Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Anto

  • Birthday 02/02/2001

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    I only create MOCs

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Karting, bicycle, mecanic and Lego, of course


  • Country
  • Special Tags 1
  • Special Tags 2

Recent Profile Visitors

2299 profile views
  1. Really compact! I especially like your use of the DBG part on the knob. I think I'll order some technic biscuits and try to build your design and see if there is not another way to make it more compact.
  2. That's it @iLego ! I got this part from the buggy #8048. By the way, I published the video! It was pretty difficult to make it since I used the GoPro Max. I recorded most of the videos in 360° and then reframed them to follow the kart exactly as I wanted. But it wasn't so easy. Currently, the only way to edit videos from GoPro Max using all the features available is to use a plugin in Adobe Premiere Pro. However, this software isn't well optimized, and editing a video in 360° requires a really high performance computer that you can't even find in sci-fi movies (the videos of the GoPro Max are in 5.6K). To be able to use a video in 360° into an editing software, it's necessary to convert it in another format that the software can read. I got 140Go of videos after conversion. Yeah. I was not able to use Adobe Premiere as it crashed when I tried to import a video on the timeline... So I used Hitfilm as usual, which is way more optimized than Premiere. I couldn't edit the videos as well as Premiere can do but I could make a video, which is not too bad. ^^ I encountered many issues, but I finally succeded in getting a video! See it as a training for the Gymkhana 4 that I'll try to do this summer. And tell me what you think about the video of the kart, I want to use your opinion for the upcoming Gymkhana.
  3. About the U-joints, I don't currently know if they will balance the pressure on the axles or not as I hope, I'll see with time. I have worked a bit on a small chassis which has got a 14L axle at the rear, and with time, the axle began to be sawed by the outside edges of the liftarms (close to the wheels), whereas the inside edge there got few damage. So I thought the pressure could be better balanced using U-joints, I'll see... @amorti Thanks! And yes the Ludicrous mode reveals the weakest point of every model, that's why I use 5.5L axles! :)
  4. Thanks! Exactly, but I think it's worth it! By "full independent suspension" I meant that the movement of a wheel doesn't depend on the one of another wheel. The rear wheels arent on the same pivot (as on a quad for instance, the rear wheels are linked, which is not the case here with the suspended axle). I'm not sure that the U-joints are really useful, I used them to try to reduce the friction due to the wheels bending their axle. So they are either useful or useless without affecting the performance.
  5. This is my new MOC! I wanted to make again a buggy but with a RC motor. It had to be as compact as possible and feature full independent suspensions. I wanted to make a different design. Generally for a buggy, you put two panels on each side and that's done. But I managed to change by doing something that needed more work (and that is orange!). I also tried to incorporate many little details: headlights, radiators, exhausts. This kart is of course powered by a BuWizz, to have more power! And it's way enough to play indoor or on a terrace! I spent much time on making a good chassis. At the rear, a suspended axle was required to make the chassis more compact. I centered the weight, so the weight balance is excellent! The grip is well balanced between the front and the rear, it's way better than for my previous buggies. The suspenion is really soft, so when you make the model fall from some centimeters, the bottom of the chassis touches the ground. But this allows having a bit of roll in the turns, which is quite nice to see and gives more realism - furthermore it makes the suspension really efficient. And I done building instructions! They are better than the ones of my Ford Mustang Hoonicorn. I use many buffers. It's a functionnality of LPUB3D that is useful to change certain sub-assemblies between two steps. It's also possible to make appear and disappear helper arrows or to change the position of some parts, as you can see when I fix the rear axle. The "little" inconvenient is that it requires a lot of work. During the modelization, we have to dupplicate every sub-model that will change. For instance there are 2 rear axles, but in each axle there are several other sub-models (left shock absorber, right one, left yellow gaz tank, right one...). Finally for this model I have 89 sub-models, for a model of 450 parts. The instructions are available here: And I'll try to make a video!
  6. Hi! I have tried to control a knob with a wire connector, however it doesn’t work - the connector just gets stuck into the knob and doesn’t turn. You also missed the 90° locker for the 2-speed gearbox! But the use of the technic biscuits (I hope it’s the right name ^^) was a good idea!
  7. I agree, but the purpose was to make a compact gearing so I used the “classic techniques” and I tried to make a gearbox as compact as possible. The bracing is just done to hold all the gears, it’s not a solution that would be used in a MOC. To me, if someone wants to integrate my gearbox in a MOC, it will be necessary to build a new structure, so why making a bracing that won’t be used anyway?
  8. Thank you so much! Now it will be possible to build this gearbox without getting mad because of LDD.
  9.'s Sequential_8_Speed_gearbox.pdf

    I just got done. This is the current version. Please delete the previous BI. Do you have any suggestions or changes that you would like made? Otherwise, I consider this is done. This is your MOC so go ahead and tell me anything you want. Did I miss anything?

    This is a really well done gearbox!!! Thanks for sharing it!! Do you know if this MOC preceded Didumo69's sequential 8 speed transmission tunnel? I did his BIs too.

    You are in France and I'm in USA, so I know it will take a few hours now. Thank you! 1963maniac, Kay Kampf

  10. Anto

    [MOC] Reform Muli T10X

    @JanGroen : Sorry, I hadn’t the time to answer. I can’t check which version I used, so try to download the latest version on the LEGO website and click on “update” is a message does appear; I can’t tell you more for the moment. ^^
  11. Anto

    [MOC] Reform Muli T10X

    Thanks! Here is the LDD file for it: Muli T10X.lxf?dl=0 However I won't have the time to make real instructions, even making photo instructions...
  12. Anto

    [MOC] Reform Muli T10X

    Thanks! @Mechbuilds: As I have learnt to make instructions (for my Ford Mustang Hoonicorn) I could do it, but this year I'm not going to have the time (studies which will take all my time). And for the next summer (yeah, already planned!) I have a new big project that I have started, so I don't think there will be instructions for this model.
  13. Anto

    [MOC] Reform Muli T10X

    It's finally finished! I had to give up on the first version because of a severe balance issue. All the weight was on the front, so the front wheels were totally crushed while the chassis was bent like a banana and the rear wheels weren't touching the ground. It was impossible to do anything, other than weigh down the rear, which wasn't a good option. So I started again from scratch. I decided to use a smaller scale, lowering the number of functions and keeping the essential. The current functions are: 4 wheel drive transmission powered by 1 L motor (without central differential) 3 steering modes thanks to 1 servomotor by axle (in fact 4 steering modes are possible, but the Muli only has 3) Tilting cab Openable doors Pivoting center tube Accessory output on the BuWizz for the tool[/list] On this model, the balance issue was pretty simple to fix, I just had to place the BuWizz on the rear part of the chassis, where the fuel tank used to be. An L motor on the front powers the front wheels and the rear ones thanks to an axle which passes through the articulation. Steering is controllable thanks to 2 servomotors. One is placed at the rear, and the other at the front, in a slightly unusual position (vertical), limited by a lack of room (see for yourself). The articulation is very simple. It's just a turntable that connects the two parts of the chassis to each other (the motion isn't limited). The cab can be tilted. That wasn't easy to design, mainly due to some structural difficulties. It is tiltable on the side, just like the real vehicle ; and a stop holds it open. The doors can also be opened. They are held in a closed position by a 1/2 pin, but there is no stop for the open position (due to a lack of space to make something suitable). I have tried to stick to the design of the real vehicle as much as I could, incorporating as many of the details as possible. I have made stickers which help to recreate the real model. For the tool, I wanted something playable and realistic compared to what the real truck may have (which wasn't really difficult given that you can put almost anything on it). I opted for a pneumatic arm with a dropside dump. This way, you can drive the truck to pick something up and put it in the dump. The tool has outriggers and a mini pneumatic pump (which you can activate with a switch), that you connect to the BuWizz. The crane has 2 articulations and a winch at the extremity of the arm. The turn table can move at almost 360°; its rotation is limited so as not to block the pneumatic hoses which pass through the center. The tool can be attached to the chassis with 4 pins with bushes; and the cab can be removed by taking off the bumper, an axle and a pin. The video!
  14. I haven't modified this gearbox but @Leviathan has made it for me! He has made it more compact, mainly by changing the lock system of the 2 speed gearbox using a rubber connector. This has saved space: now it is 11 studs long instead of 13. He has modified the stop system (which makes impossible shifting from 8th to 1st). And he has also made a new structure, using technic frames (more stiff). Below you can see a version even a bit more compact, but it's near to the illegal build. Link to his own presentation on TechLUG: