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Found 26 results

  1. First of all please watch the teaser video from last week :) A couple of months ago everyone and their grandma tried to build an RC car going faster than 40 km/h. Although I don't have a properly working old Technic RC unit with the remote (somehow I have only faulty ones), I have the necessary amount of buggy motors and 2 BuWizz units, so I had to give this a try :) The build is not 100% pure Lego (although BuWizz is built to be used with Lego), but it still has the fun factor and of course the challenge :) The whole process turned out to be much-much longer than I expected, but at the end it was a success! I spent several weeks creating, improving and testing the car. The basic idea was to use 2 BuWizz units, 4 buggy motors and 4 Technic motorcycle wheels and to add only the minimal amount of components to remain light and fast. It had to be solid enough to survive all the crashes during the tests and record breaking attempts. I had dozens of tests at various locations until I found a proper track and the final configuration of the car was created. During this time a lot of parts had to be replaced as the axles were bent after a couple of runs, you can see the examples in the video. The car does not have a conventional steering to reduce weight. For the speed runs only small adjustments are needed, so the direction of the car is controlled by the speed difference of the wheels - there are two control sliders on the phone for each side of the vehicle. The faster output of the buggy motors is used, the gear ratio is 3:1. I tested several combinations to drive the wheels, the most successful one turned out to be the usage of 36t and 12t beveled gears. The speed was measured with the on-board GPS unit. The car was controlled mostly with my phone, but for the fastest run I was using an iPad (longer range). Even like this at full power the car ran out of range very quickly. I think it would be possible to go even faster with this car, but that would require a completely flat surface and a chase vehicle to ensure the controller stays in range. Maybe another time ;)
  2. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  3. Yes, it's an airplane that can drift! (or rather do doughnuts) But first, I think the video is the best introduction: Cool, isn't it? I was actually very surprised how well it worked when I first tested it - especially considering how bad my previous MODs were.. (in fact, it's probably the only RC set MOD that I've done that worked at all!) It was quite a challenge to fit all the electrics in such a small body, and was actually the main reason why I only kept one of the original functions... Features: Steering - powered by PF servo. Drive - geared down 3:5 from fast output of buggy motor. Motorized wings (not RC) - powered by PF M-motor. Easy to remove battery box - if not using rechargeable battery. Other Specs: Weight: 650g (with rechargeable battery) Original functions kept: 1 (out of 3) Theoretical top speed: 14km/h (at least) Links: YouTube: Bricksafe: Contest voting: More photos: Enjoy! And don't forget to vote!
  4. Good Day. This is a small desert-rally styled offroader that was made in roughly 8-9 hours during New Year's holidays. Weight of 637g. Powered by BuWizz v1. Features: -4x4 drive with slowest output of buggy motor -Return-to-center steering (m-motor) -Independent suspension on all wheels -Over 2 studs of clearance under the car -Openable doors, bonnet and trunk. -Detailed engine bay & interior -Stickers all over the car, including rear-view mirrors & rear lights -Minor detailing on the outside (lightbar, antenna...) The suspension mechanism relies on the vertical movement of the drive input of the axle , changing main pivot point from one CV to another, allowing for each wheel's independent movement from each other. Video: Photos: Thanks for reading!
  5. Hi everybody! Thats my new 4x4 rock crawler. So,here it is Specifications: -4 link suspension -portal axles -rc 108 mm tires -3s li-fe battrey -2 buggy motors -1 sbrick I hope you like it Let's see it in action!
  6. I found another use for clear 24116 panels... Lotus 340R. Lotus 340R 3 by James Tillson, on Flickr It has a LiPo, V2 and a buggy motor. It is only 600g and is way too fast for my kitchen. It has been crash tested (a lot). Lotus 340R 2 by James Tillson, on Flickr Lotus 340R 1 by James Tillson, on Flickr Video and better pictures coming tomorrow.
  7. Updating the first post to have all three RC mods in one place. 1st version - Power Functions motors & SBrick control This is a quick and dirty upgrade, it started as a test to see if 2 or 4 L motors can drive the set properly, but things escalated quickly :) The aim was to add the PF components without taking apart the set completely or to change original structure, so obviously there are more elegant ways to hide all the motors and to upgrade the suspension and the drive train. The list of the added elements: 4 PF L motors (drive) 1 PF Servo motor (steering) 3 PF M motors (functions) 1 PF switch 2 8878 Battery boxes 4 PF lights 2 SBricks The 4 L motors can drive the car, but it has no extraordinary performance due to the added weight. The servo motor is struggling sometimes (especially when the car is not moving), it'd need another servo motor or some other solution for the steering to work smoothly. 2nd version - pickup-style body, 4 buggy motors, 2 BuWizz units After the first attempt I wanted to build something faster, so I had to reduce weight and add more power :) The back part of the truck was removed, I removed also a lot of non vital elements (like the fake V8). 4 Buggy motors were added and they were powered by 2 BuWizz units. The results was pretty fast considering the tracks and could handle the obstacles well. 3rd version - tracks removed, wheels added, pickup-style body, 4 buggy motors, 2 BuWizz units This is my third and last Lego 42069 Extreme Adventure remote control mod. After the previous version I did not plan to create another one but I was convinced by some comments on my YouTube channel (thanks for the tip!). Although I really liked 42069 on tracks, I realized that the top speed was limited by the construction so the 4 buggy motors could not show their full potential. I removed the tracks and added the wheels from the 9398 Crawler set. The pickup-style body was kept from the previous mod to ensure the car is as light as possible. The axles were rebuilt completely to fit the buggy motors and the wheels. The car is driven by 4 buggy motors and there's a PF Servo for steering. It is controlled and powered by 2 BuWizz units. It became surprisingly fast, I was curious so I added a small GPS tracker to measure the top speed - you can check the result in the video :)
  8. A few years ago I created a modification to the 42005 Monster Truck set, where I motorized it and made it RC (IR), but tried to keep the geometry as close to the original set as possible (see topic here). I always liked the design and size of the body of this truck, so I have used it again, but this time I have completely removed the chassis and the drivetrain, and inserted a new one. This truck uses: the Lego Power Functions Rechargeable Battery (8878) to power an SBrick which controls a 9V Buggy Motor (5292) for drive and a Power Functions Servo Motor (88004) for steering. The truck is controlled remotely using Bluetooth via the SBrick and SBrick Android App on my mobile phone. This truck features: large suspension travel Ackermann Steering and positive caster steering geometry. The tires (56908c03) are the tires that were first seen in the Batman Tumbler set (76023). Even though the wheels are so far apart the truck has a short wheelbase, and thanks to the Ackermann steering geometry and differential in the rear it has a fairly tight turning circle. The front suspension uses a single shock absorber (731c05) with a setup similar to the 8081 Extreme Cruiser set from 2011. The rear independent suspension uses two hard shock absorbers (731c04), one each side. Here's a video to see it in action: Although the Monster truck uses a Buggy Motor, I couldn't give it full power without the battery and/or SBrick cutting power to it. I could only go at about 70% of max speed. I didn't have much space for gear reduction (apart from a 20-tooth gear to 28-tooth differential), so the output doesn't have much torque when using such large tires. Because of this, the truck takes a while to get to full speed, and slows down when hitting an incline or going off-road, which kind of makes the large suspension travel a bit pointless. I might see if I can gear it down some time in the future. I still continue to have a lot of trouble with the SBrick too. I finally have a version of the SBrick Android App that seems to work ok, but despite being only a few feet away and with nothing else around to interfere with it, it would still lose connection with my SBrick regularly. Hopefully BuWizz will be better, and be able to power the Buggy Motor better too. My BrickShelf Gallery with larger images (once moderated) Any constructive feedback/comments/questions are welcome.
  9. Im new to this forum so hi everyone ;) i have fun with PF from few months, and i want to buy a li-po and customize it to lego, i got two of real power hungry buggy motors, and i want to feed em' as much as i can :D I only need to know which voltage is maximum for motors, and for reciever, i have maken a research across internet, and ive heard that motors can handle max 16volts , and reciever just 9 volts, but ive heard too that motors can handle max 12 volts and that reciever too, on many forums i have read different numbers, so i have to ask here :) i have found light and small 14,8 volt li po 850 mah, in good price and i like it, but i dont want to burn my buggy motors and rest of PF, im wondering too about rc unit voltage, if it have 6 aa 1,5v bateries fully charged, it could generate 9v as normal pf battery box but when i compared them, rc unit is way better, and buggy motors are way faster, i hope that someone can help me :)
  10. This was just a quick weekend project. I am fond of the 42037 set, as it was one the sets that got me interested in Technic. So, I decided to try to do it some justice, and I motorized it, first with an L-motor, which wasn't great, then with an XL-motor, which was about the same, then with 2 L-motors, which was the best. Then, I got a buggy motor. And since I had just taken apart a failed battlebot, and the buggy motor was lying there, begging to be used, I decided to use it. I rebuilt my 42037 Formula Off-Roader, with a few changes, which are as follows: 1. Changed the colors from light bley/med blue/lime/black to black/white/lime. 2. Removed the inline-4 fake engine. 3. Added full motorization, buggy motor for drive, servo for steering, AA battery box with a V2 receiver. 4. Bodywork changed a bit to fit the new colors and cover the gap left from removing the fake engine. And a light bar was added, because I didn't like the round spotlights. 5. Very minor, but I changed the rear shocks attachment point on the rear suspension arms, they were moved out one more stud than shown in the instructions, in order to have better travel and not be under compression, which was an issue in the original model. If anyone is interested, here is the LDD file instructions! Anyway, I know you're all tired of my rambling, so, with out further ado, I present to you the 42037 Ultimate Racing Buggy! 42037 F 42037 FQR It has easy access to the battery box, both to replace it and to turn it on and off. 42037 FQL The suspension is great, one of the best parts of the original set, which I kept and slightly improved. 42037 Mod 42037 FQR-s The source of power and speed! The almighty BUGGY MOTOR! 42037 Rear The required photo of the underside. The wheelbase and chassis are the same dimensions as the original set, though the buggy motor hangs out the back by a couple studs. 42037 Chassis I hope to make a video soon, but it started raining after I took photos, so maybe in a few days. But finals are coming up, so it may take some time. I will also add some cutaway photos soon, for anyone who wants to replicate my mod. Or, use the LDD file instructions. Thanks for looking at this, please give C&C, ask questions. More on my Flickr. - Leonardo da Bricki
  11. Here is my Fiat 500 Abarth. Just like the real car it has the motor hanging out the back. It uses V2, LiPO, servo and a buggy motor. It is 450g It uses a direct drive from the fastest buggy motor output, no diff and plenty of positive castor. It has a tiny turning circle and will over steer. Video coming soon.
  12. z3_2drive

    Mini Rally Racer

    Hello Everyone! I'm back with a nice little MOC that i built a couple days ago. I actually first built it last year but never had the time for pictures, so I rebuilt it from my memory. It has rear wheel drive via one buggy motor and 20t/diff gear combo. It has all wheel independent suspension-since I wanted the front and rear width to be the same, the rear isnt double wishbone. It's extremely light and has servo steering. All powered by one of my 10 volt batteries. I had to use some interesting bracing techniques in order to connect and strengthen the whole car with as little pieces as possible, but I couldnt find a simple enough way to brace the front suspension to the chassis so in a hard crash the front axle may come off. Pics: ^it gets quite dirty after prolonged outdoor use the front bull bar (same one from the 8048 buggy set) bends inward during a front end hit, so it definitely helps protect the car if it loses signal from IR receiver: In order for weight saving I used flex axles, which give a nice tight grip around the battery: Money shot suspension showcase ^when resting the rear suspension has neutral camber, when it is raised it has slight positive camber, but when leaning into a turn and it compresses, it has negative camber, which can actually help handling a bit: overall it has good ground clearance for its size, which allows for good performance on bumpy asphalt and light offroading, but for offoading it relies on wheel speed rather than low speed torque driving outdoors and through fresh rainwater puddles eventually collects dirt and water, which can get into places where you don't want it... ^but luckily dirt will fall of after a good shake once it has dried and water, as long as it is fresh rain/streamwater won't ruin motors/connectors, only pool/saltwater/grimy water will mess up motors, but I made sure the battery stayed dry And here's some burnout/drift shots: my new desktop background: ENJOY!
  13. Like a Rolling Brick

    [MOD] RC Mini Buggy

    Hi guys! This is my version of pg5200's Mini Buggy. I used the same chassis of the original one adding some minor changes to the bodywork, to make it more "pimped out". The front bullbar is the same of another model that is strictly related to this one, DesignJunkie58's Small RC Buggy. The model is run by a RC Motor with Servo for steering, both fueled by an AAA Battery Box. The IR Receiver is v2. I also tried a 1:1 gears ratio as shown in Piterx' Gearsbraker Sandrail, but the RC motor had the tendency to overheat. Anyway the problem doesn't happen with the 1:1.667 ratio. The buggy is small and very fun to play outside on a moderately dirty road. As I usually drive in my apartment, I put at the back the Old School 20x30 tyres, the rubber of which is harder and smoother. This way, when the RC motor runs fast and you steer, the back end gets loose on the floor and the model suddenly drifts...
  14. Hi, I've brought you simple fun mod of 42050 B 42050 B is useless as A model, but good base for crazy wheeled "stick" My MOD is = 42050B + 2x (Buggy motor+LiPo + Sbrick) + Servo motor. I've tested stock 81 mm tumbler tyres and larger 94 mm Unimog tyres. 107 mm Xerion is bad, cause tractor thread pattern is bad for fast speeds. Used iPhone as speed tracker. Not sure that it is 100% right, but cmparing to other models shared online, speed is 99% correct. Not a speed record, but it is not a bone chassis with motors also. I knew I can't beat speed record, so I've made another record: the fastest LEGO model with custom CHROMED parts (Chrome Block City, thanks to Aurelius) p.s. In the background "AK-47 Kalshnikov" development and production plant. Historic building.
  15. Here is my RC Grinnall Scorpion III. It has direct drive from one buggy motor. I wanted to film outside and get up to full speed but this thing takes off by itself when the sun comes out.
  16. A fast Lego Technic car. There will be more pictures and a full video in a weeks time or less.
  17. HorcikDesigns

    [MOC] No Lane Blacktop

    EDIT: New version in post 10! EDIT2: Chassis in post 13. ________________________________________________________________ 5292, Servo, Li-Po, V2. Do you need hear anything more? Well, these specifications are also important - this this car features full live axle suspension - in front leaf flex cable springs, rear axle is equipped with (approximately) two soft spring shocks. Slightly inspired by Chevy Bel-air '57 I am not satisfied with rear fenders, but the performance of this little beast is great! Be sure to check it out! More photos:
  18. Ok, after figuring out some video problems I am going to post about my final satisfaction out of my Four chassis builds. While V4 may be slower (slower output), It is extremely robust, simple and has the best handling out of the Four . It is powered by four Buggy motors and steering uses the servo motor. Electronics-wise it uses the same hobby-grade motor controller, receiver and transmitter that I have mentioned before and my custom battery. These are the only non lego parts Performance is great, and a couple days ago during some play I managed to barrel-roll it, only knocking the project box containing the electronics a bit loose For now I only have the video to show, but I will upload pictures soon
  19. Hello fellow builders :) In the meanwhile im working to get some money to get the nissan pickup finished, i needed something funny to play with in the spare time when the PC is rendering :P so I decided to build a quad with tubolar frame that i could make drift around my apartment it turned out to be pretty fast and with enough torque to face some dirt too! i still need to decide about how to make the body but id like to build something like this I hope you'll like it :)
  20. I present to your attention my new MOC "Desert Monster." Features / Functions: 1. Rear-wheel drive with 2 buggy motors from slow output. 2. Front: independent suspension. 3. Rear: live axle. 4. Lightweight body. 5. Length 42 cm. 6. You can easily drifting Video:
  21. This is my first ever completed Technic MOC, originally inspired by Piterx' Lancia Fulvia but much simpler. It's not quite done, but I anticipate being able to spend very little time on Lego in the next year or two, so it's as finished as it's probably going to get. There is no gearbox or interior, and there are a number of things I'd change if I had the time - but overall I'm pretty pleased with it. The 037 was the last rear wheel drive rally car to win the WRC, in 1983. It raced in the infamous Group B category, which had few restrictions on vehicle design and engine power; as a result, the overpowered cars were in a number of fatal accidents, and ultimately Group B was abolished. While it lasted, though, Group B saw some spectacular driving and some extremely fast and loud cars. The Martini Racing stripes are done with washi tape (fancy Japanese colored masking tape), which works OK except where the tape crosses pin holes. It actually looks better in person than in photos. As in the original vehicle, the hood and rear lift up, and the doors open and more or less lock in place: Also like the original, the model is mid-engined. I used 1 RC motor geared 12:20 from the fast output. Until I put the bodywork on, the car could do handbrake turns and drift on wood floors, but now that the vehicle weighs 1030g, it can't drift and can only rarely do handbrake turns. I'm especially happy with the front axle, which includes a decent wheel lock, caster, unequal length wishbones, near-Ackerman steering, and a scrub radius of nearly zero. My thanks to all of those here who offered advice on suspension - I learned an enormous amount from you all. Steering is by servo, which offers return to center, reasonable speed, and high torque. I use a basic remote because the train remote is too slow for me to keep the car from crashing; the downside to that is that proportional steering is impossible. Wheel lock, steering, and scrub radius: Caster: The hub is held together by the 4L axle with stop (and the half bush on it), which turns out to be a more robust solution than I'd expected: The rear suspension is a modification of Thirdwigg's floating differential. It works well, with one caveat. Every once in a while, the 3L axle driving the 20t gear slips towards the differential a bit, and once when this happened a 3L u-joint got destroyed by torsion. The rear suspension is hard and has limited travel, and the suspension arms are tilted up even at rest; I would fix that if I had time. And of course the obligatory under-chassis shot:
  22. Hello guys, Im new on the forum. I have a problem wich is very annoing, it is my recently purchased buggy motor. I have built a rally car and when i bought the motor, i only needed to click it in to place. Now, the problem is that if i drive (drift actually) the overload protection comes in and brakes the party. Wat i am using is this: 1. 8878 Li-Po Battery box 2. V2 Receiver 3. On the blue one, M Motor for steering, just like rm8's Black Mamba GT 4. On the red one, 8886 extension wire 5. From the extension wire to the Buggy Motor 5292 I have trouble uploading pics but i will try to figure out.
  23. Hi all, This is my first MOC post. The Lightning GT-RC or GT-RallyCross. The car: Engine: Li-Po Battery powered RC Buggy Motor. Propulsion: Engine right to the rear differential, possibly with a center shaft to the front differential. Steering: Currently M-motor with rubber band auto centering. Performances: Engine: 4.5 W @ 1200 rpm. Top Speed: 8 km/h (5 mph) Weight: 570 gram Dimensions: 37.6 X 19.4 cm A picture:
  24. Hi guys, Sorry if this is in the wrong category but this is my first post. I am having a problem with a buggy motor i have recently purchased. I have made a drift car with it and have noticed that after a few minutes the power suddenly drops and the motor doesn't run as fast. I have tested it with another model with tires and it is even worse. The motor just stalls and jolts forwards ever few seconds. I noticed that when the motor is stalling i can hear a small high pitched noise from the receiver. I am using the rechargeable battery pack (8878) with the v2 receiver and a buggy motor. I have tested it with other batteries and the older versions of receivers but it just seems worse. The model runs fine when i lift it off the ground but when i put it on the ground it just stalls again. The chassis is very light so i'm sure its not a weight issue. I have seen this problem with other peoples creations when they are using 2 buggy motors on one receiver. But the solution to that is the set up i have in my car. Hope you can help me cause it is my first buggy motor and it is great fun when it is working.
  25. I got me a buggy motor this week, and wanted to try it out. Here's a very minimal chassis I whipped up. It's got a simple return-to-centre mechanism which doesn't really work, no suspension, no structural integrity above what's required to stop it falling apart, and no style whatsoever, but it's quick! (Sorry about the video quality) The battery pack is modified to output 9.6V and has been shunted to prevent it cutting out. As is obvious from the constant wheelspin in the video, it's got torque to spare, but when I tried it with bigger wheels, the power cut out, so I might have to try again when I get a V2 receiver. I could probably have made it a few studs shorter if I'd planned further ahead. Anyone made a smaller buggy-motored car?