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Found 315 results

  1. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  2. This Ford GT is the ultimate expression of form following function. Its teardrop- shape body is the result of extensive work in the wind tunnel. Its carbon-fibre body and its 600-plus horsepower 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine are the ultimate expressions of technological innovation. Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7qSxrk Hello Ford and Technic addicts! Thorsten has completed professional instructions for the Ford GT. It might be time to disassemble your 42056 Porsche Kit and build this orange replica of the 2017 Ford GT! Avail at Rebrickable, check it out! Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-10792/Loxlego/ford-gt Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/gp/139930963@N04/83f95A Video: https://youtu.be/bV8_uOz50oU Ford GT - race car for the road 🏁 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This supercar packs RWD driven by 2 XL-Motors, Servo for steering, pushrod-actuated torsion bar style suspension front and rear, Sport and track mode suspension, V6 engine, Sbrick plus, Rear spoiler with manual lift, 2 M-motors (1 for each door), button to turn on the car under the hood, easy battery access. Ford GT - From drawing board to reality 🏁 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Nothing about this build was easy. This car had so many new things that I've have never accomplished before. To start was the framework. I was worried this build would be too heavy for the pushrod suspension. Each wheel has 2 inboard shocks that are positioned in the same fashion as the real Ford GT. Ford GT - door mechanics - filter shot by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I really wanted to have the doors open the same as the real car and this is where difficulty started. Opening those huge, heavy doors was a small feat in itself. The pressure required to pop the door to the final position upwards is immense, so I has to seriously gear down the axle. Ford GT - doors by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The next challenge was the motor placement. Man was it ever hard to fit everything inside a tear drop bodywork! I had to use the middle of the seats for the Sbrick, which may not look too cosmetically appealing, but I can assure you it did completely strengthen the framework immensely. (this may be my sturdiest frame I've made) IMG_0043 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Lastly, I kept the Veneno to race the Ford GT as they have identical gearing. If you watch the video, you'll see who wins. I will work with Thorsten as well for professional instructions in the future. Ford GT back view 🏁 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr A big thanks to @brunojj1 for suggesting to place more studs between the wheels. I tried it this time (2 extra studs) and I feel it looks proper. thanks! Ford GT - white room - filter by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  3. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  4. «Mad Max for kids». I’d like to present a truck, named ‘Beast’, from the old Australian TV series ‘Thunderstone’ - XL for drive - Servo for steering - LED to lighten the cube + PF switch - LiPo for power - IR-receiver for remote control - Opening doors, trailer roof - Turning radar That's how the original one looks:
  5. Hi all, i've finally started my tc11 entry, i was playing around some building techniques i've improved on all my project and i initially wanted to build a robot with a razer like drive (omniwheel at the back and normal wheels at the front) but i found that drive inefficient and with a lot of friction, so i decided to built the "most compact 4x4 rubber-band powered flipper + lifter combo " and i'm not sure how it will end, but i came up with a concept chassis (it has working drive and lifting wedglets and it comes from the first idea of my entry (a sliding disk bot, but there are too many spinners here)), the problem is that i need to fit there the reloading motor (XL) the battery box and the two receivers/sbrick and i'm not sure i can (mainly because i've built a lot of compact robots and there were a lot more space than in this one) so i may came back to design a more efficent 4wd omni+standard drive and have a bigger footprint but i'm not sure, meanwhile (i'm currently building the mechanisms) enjoy the concept: drive: 2 XL motors, 4WD with friction gears main weapon: rubber-band powered flipper v2 (hoping for 2hg flipping, before it was ~1) reloaded by and xl motor secobndary weapon: lifting wedglets powered by and M motor (no electronics here) current size: 26x27 stud, with retracted weapon(battle position)
  6. I was really so busy that is a long time since i created a folder on brickshelf, and now it's time to add my remaining 8 bot: i'm also aiming to create a lxf file for each, but currently waiting for the first folder to become public. What i want to do is to keep this fist post simple with robots thumbnails, link to the future reply about them, descriptions and lxf files, let's start: Really hope that all the files and photos that i'll put there can inspire some TC11 competitors, unfortnately you can't fight bot in the entry video but i will really like to know how a fight between your bots and mine will end (despite my bot being ruled by different and more restrictive rules). Bot-focused replies will be posed one every day starting from tomorrow and then this first message will be updated with thumbnails, lxf files and more info, i'm doing this because i'm progressively dismantle all the robots and i want to keep them at least in digital form (so i'll have more pieces for my new ideas without loosing the previous ones). i also really want to thaks LRW (lego robot wars) group for the support that they gave to me while i was building and posting updates there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/105109289523663/?ref=bookmarks in order not no make this topic only a bunch of writings i have a small video about the first bot that will be showcased tomorrow (asap) so here all the robots: name: LIFTY description: this is the 2nd of the -ITY team, a series of simple robots made to show the archetypes of combat robots and also easy to replicate, they also fight each other but the winner wasn't this one. signature move: LIFTER weight class: 500g notes: despite being a lifter it is not really able to full lift the opponent but by going under it and pushing with the additive weight it can easily lift and flip up to 1kg bots! lxf file: lifty.lxf bot reply link(scroll down here): click here name: BITY description: this is the first of the -ITY team, also the most complex featuring a jaw that can be opened and rotate, it represents grabbers or control robots that aim to grab the opponent and push them into the PIT of oblivion due to the use of lipo BB (i have only one) and the excessive weight (700g) it didn't compete to the secret -ITY championship signature move: CLAW weight class: 500g notes: 4x4 transmission is really powerful but has a lot of friction while steering (even at smaller weight class) so the battle position of BITY is with the claw inclined down and front wheels lifted up and not touching the ground lxf file: bity.lxf bot reply link: click here name: FLIPPY description: 3rd of the ITY team it is a spring powered flipper! inspired by diotor this bot relies to a winch mechanism that is able to load and relase 4 9398 shock absorbers with only one motor! signature move: winch reloaded-spring powered FLIPPER arm weight class: 500g notes: unable to self right was defeated by lifty on the -ITY tournament lxf file: flippy.lxf bot reply link: click here name: CARBIDE description: replica of uk robot wars competitor carbide, grand finalist of series 8 and champion of series 9 signature move: horizontal spinner weight class: 1kg new technic motor used: 2x M for drive, 1x 9V motor (745699) for weapon drive: 2WD and can drive even if upside down! notes: the side armor is really tough but can be detached from th main body, also the bar has a quite good punch but luckily not enough to break lego pieces, it can remove armor and exposed wheels. also it is driven by an sbrick receiver so it has the advantage of PWM motor controls and no line of sight needed, may also join 3-robot matches due to not providing interferences with IR lxf file: carbide.lxf bot reply link: click here name: PULSAR description: again a 2016 competitor, smaller and faster than carbide, but equally lethal signature move:SPINNING DRUm with double single tooth weight class: 1kg replica new technic bricks notes: it requires only two channels to be controlled because the spinning drim is always one and a rubber band belt prevent the motor stall name: WITCH DOCTOR description: this replica is from BATTLEBOTS! unluckily i can't replicate the purple/green color scheme but this time i used old technic bricks so it is completely smash-able! but mind that its deadly single tooth disc smash bot before they can do anything signature move: single tooth SPINNING VERTICAL DISK weight class: 1kg replica with system bricks notes: my first inclined wheel drive (with chains) that really helps the bot steering even if 4x4 with all the wheels on the ground name: CARDIAC II description: the first fan designed bot that i motorized, it will fight witch doctor later this moth (hopefully) and it is armed with a deadly axe that can stop the 2000rpm disk of its opponent signature move: fast AXE weight class: 1kg replica with system bricks notes: it is the biggest bot i've ever built and has a pretty advanced weapon capable of rapid fire with a single M motor name: KILERHURTZ test chassis description: this poor bot was never finished (and used to test all other bots weapon) due to the armor of the original 100kg one being really difficult to replicate, but it's weapon really reflect the power of a 110kg machine signature move: rubber-band powered gearing reloaded AXE weight class: never finished notes: it can be operated with a full auto reload system and a tap firing button from the sbrick APP
  7. Hello everyone It’s good to have some spare time but better that sitting on the couch is to present one of my last MOCs – Front Loaded Garbage Truck. The truck was made almost three months ago (but I done it from scratch in 8 days!) for our local LUG contest. The goal was to made something up to 2000 pieces and maximum of 4 engines. I thought that front loaded garbage truck could be a nice playable model and I haven’t seen much of them made from Lego. The truck of course fit to rules so it has a four remote functions like: - driving and steering - lifting arms - moving front forks In addition to electric functions there are two pneumatic (with manual pump) – dumping the whole body and opening tailgate. If you want more accurate specification: Weight: 1700g Dimensions: 19 studs wide, 22 studs high, 53 studs long (15.2x17.6x42.4cm) Parts: almost 1900 The truck is designed to emptying big waste bins. Whole process don’t take much time. Lifting functions are motorized so you don’t have to even touch a truck to dump wastes into body. Lifting the arms are operated by L motor connected to two big linear actuators. For moving forks I used a M motor and built a long shaft through arm to connect small LA’s. Each small linear actuator is driven by 6 universal joints. Maybe it don’t sound good but I have to say that everything works fast and fine. First you have to do is drive up to waste bin. Then lift it above body using arms. Meanwhile flap mounted on top of body opens itself and then you roll over waste bin with front forks. When bin is empty simply lower arms and put it onto ground. For driving I used XL motor with total gear reduction 1:1.4 That ratio gives you an opportunity to push truck by hand (and engine will turn). Steering is simply operated by PF Servo. As I said at the beginning there are two pneumatic functions. For opening tailgate I used one small pneumatic cylinder and for lifting body – two big cylinders. Lowering body and tailgate is done by gravity – there is no need to use air pressure. For more playability I made two waste bins – green and red. Maybe this is not a masterpiece but it had to be light. So what say more? I think that movie will say everything that possibly I forgot to write :)
  8. Here is my attempt to miniaturize the 42065 set. I wanted to make it as small as i could and take the main features of the 42065, a set i do not own myself, but i might pick one up to compare. Since the rubber caterpillar tracks suited this scale perfectly they where on my "must haves" list, a simple bogie gives it the correct stance and track tension. In the next image you can see the chassis and bodywork opened up, it is powered by a small AAA battery box, receiver and 2 L-motors, it is fun to drive and stops for nothing! Now i was hoping on some feedback on the paneling, i have not made a lot of bodywork with panels before and was hoping to get some suggestions and/or tips and tricks! Of course any other suggestion or comment is welcomed as well!
  9. I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
  10. This is my Volvo fh16 750 rc moc. The main goal was to create a huge 1:10 scale model with less funktions but very strong and fast for this size. the propulsion from lego dirt crusher is fixed long side and the batterybox is in the front
  11. Hi all! My RC Unit broke a couple of weeks ago, after mulitple malfunctioning problems. I bought it about 4 months ago (mid July) on Bricklink, and it worked perfect when I received it. I just had to clean up the battery compartment: some batteries of the previous owner leaked. I buildt some MOC's with it during the summer (I didn't use it intensively), until school started in September again. Like everybody knows, school/work=less time for hobby. During a period of 3-4 weeks, it layed on my Lego worktable (with batteries). I got some time, and I builded a MOC with it. When I wanted to try it out, it turned that the 'gas'-button (the left) of the remote didn't work porperly, in forward direction. Sometimes it just worked (I could drive forward and backwards), other times (mostly) it doesn't (I could only drive backwards, with sometimes a 'shock' in forward direction). When you went from 'backwards' to 'forward' the motors were braked. When you went leased the lever from 'backwards' to 'neutral', the motors were coast. The auxilaury plug worked fine. I tried to change the batteries (remote AND receiver), switched to other channels, tested with other motors (also not the 5292), another remote (my remote works perfect, I tested it with the RC unit of a friend), etc. When I was trying to find the cause of the problem, by trying to drive forward, it suddenly started to smoke. I immediantly removed the batteries and let it cool down. I tried again if it works, but it has still the same problems, with the exception that it doesn't drive, in any case in the 'forward' direction (of course I know I could just turn the cables 180° to drive forward, but then I couldn't drive backwards) AND if you press the 'forward' button long enough, the motors will turn with little shocks in the 'backwards' direction. It can be noted better when we attach a multimeter on the ouput, it sometime give some weird, very short tensions in the opposite direction. Moreover, the motors weren't braked anymore, they just coasted when you went from 'backwards' to 'forward'. I sent an email to Lego, and of course they doesn't sent replacements anymore. So, I screwed it open and I noticed the cables are melted a bit (both: the auxilaury plug AND the 'normal' plug), but I think that can't be the cause, because in the opposite direction everything works fine. Meanwhile, I bought a 'new' second hand Supersonic RC, but I'm still wondering if I could repair this unit? Are there any electronic experts on this forum? Kind regards, Fresko
  12. Jan-'17 Now, building instruction file (PDF) is available at Rebrickable linked below http://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/Modoro/motorized-42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs-version-11 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi.. everyone! This my 2nd posting here, introducing my own renovation(or remodeling) of TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS. Among the newly released 2016 Lego models, "TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS" received the best attention before release. In addition to its nice and detailed appearance, now I attempt to review the process of blowing features including RC driving and 4-speed gearbox shifting, and LED lights as well. The video above shows the process of remodeling TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS and a driving test in the following order. The process of remodeling each part of PORSCHE chassis Driving and steering test of the remodeled PORSCHE chassis The process of binding the renovated chassis to the PORSCHE body Field driving test The main target of this RC remodeling is just a chassis (or power-train) that is composed of front/rear axis, power transmission and steering units. The following figure compares the before and after appearance of the renovated PORSCHE chassis. <Before> <After> The changes and features of the renovated PORSCHE chassis are as follows Mounted drive motors (L-motor x 4) Mounted a steering motor (S-motor x 1) Modified gear shifting method not using the paddle shift remodeling of the 4-speed sequential gearbox for enhanced durability and power transmission efficiency Mounted PF battery (optionally, two batteries) Mounted two SBRICKs for the remote control capability While including all of the above modifications, it maintains the design and major features of the original 42056 model. (rear fake engine room, Hand of God, glove box, toolbox under the hood etc.) This review is divided into a total of 9 sections, and the following videos illustrate the building progress of each section, respectively. part 1: chassis frame remodeling In this section, the main contents of RC motorizing 42056 PORSCHE chassis is largely divided into three sub-parts and will be described as follows . 1) reinforcement of chassis regidity A dictionary meaning of chassis frame is defined as "the frame plus the "running gear" like engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, and suspension" In the original 42056 model implementing the real PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS in LEGO model, a chassis is composed to support the body, transmissions, front and rear axis, engine etc. By the way, LEGO designers did not consider the RC driving from the stage of planning the TECHNIC 42056 model. Thus the chassis regidity, weakened by adding driving & steering motors, gear-shifting motors and battery boxes, cannot maintain the body shape of its own secure and inhibits the stable driving performance. In order to reinforce the chassis regidity that is more weakened by removing liftarms to mount 4 driving L-motors under the gear-box, 42056 chassis core is newly configured using a total of thress TECHNIC 5x11 liftarms. 2) provision of driving motor mounting space 4 driving L-motors are mounted under the gear box between the driver and front passenger. 3) provision of gear-shifting axle mounting space In the original 42056 model, The transmission and drive shaft axis are designed in the form perpendicular to each other. According to this design, gear shifting can be done accurately, smoothly and sequentially from 1st speed to 4th speed. However in the driving test progress, it turned out that thress 24-toothed bevel gears in driving pathways can not deliver high torque & power to the rear axle and differential gears. Thus, to remove three bevel gears in the pathway of the remodeled 42056 chassis, gear shifting axle is heightened by 3L and driving shaft is connected right to the 4-speed transmissions. part 2: 4-speed sequential gearbox remodeling part 3: control units for the RC gear shifting part 4: driving motors mounting part 5: dashboard remodeling part 6: front/rear axis remodeling part 7: rear engine room remodeling part 8: assembly process of the renovated PORSCHE chassis part 9: binding the renovated chassis to the body of PORSCHE These are all I prepared for the review of the motorized 42056 PORSCHE model. Thanks for reading & watching (-;
  13. Question: What do you get, when you cross a tank, with a banana, a scorpion, a V8 engine, and a bunch of stud-shooters? Answer: The Banana Scorpion! Color scheme: Yellow, with some black and grey. Driver: A Big Giant Banana-eating Tiger! (this one) Powered Functions: Drive: Tank tracks - powered by 2x M-motors. (also used for steering) Steering: Tank type skid steering. Engine: A massive V8 - powered by a high speed motor. Wacky function 1: Lifting hull mechanism - powered by M-motor. Wacky function 2: High speed spinning sweeper - powered via V8. Wacky function 3: The ability to tank-wheelie!!! (with some help...) Manual Functions: (aka: weapons) Cannon: A giant cannon mounted on the end of the adjustable scorpion tail. Stud-shooters: Front: 2x six-round, and 2x single-round - Rear: 4x single-round. Spring-shooters: 2x rear-mounted. (can be triggered by driver) The story of how The Banana Scorpion was built:
  14. RC Trabant 601

    This is a MOC. It is built in scale 1:10. Features: Front wheel drive (L motor) Steering (servo motor) 4 speed sequential gearbox (M motor for changing gears) All wheel working drum brakes (1 M motor for front and 1 for rear wheels) Full independent suspension Openable doors, bonet and trunk (which hides the small battery box) Video: Note that the car is very small (only 35 cm long) so it was quite hard to put all these functions inside. Also recognize in the video that I had to use a special solution with mounting of the differential - because of small scale. The normal solution would be too wide.
  15. RC Dodge Challenger SXT

    This is a MOC (my own creation). It is built in scale 1:10. I started this project one year ago and I wanted to make it as realistic as possible. The most complex part of this MOC is the 5+R sequential gearbox. It had to fit in very small space, so I had to use a new mechanism. It is driven by 4 motors: RC motor for drive, PF servo motor for steering, L motor for gearbox and M motor for lights. It has also realistic full independent suspension (I tried to replicate the real one) and doors with lock. Not like many lego cars, this has full interior with 5 seats. The front seats can move. The gearbox, steering motor, drive motor and two IR receivers are located above the front axle. The L motor for changing speeds is under the seats and the battery box is behind the rear axle. Video: Visit my youtube channel to see more of my creations!
  16. - Electric: 2x L motor, M motor, IR-receiver, LiPo battery - Working supercharger - Positive caster angle - Independent front suspension - Leaf spring rear suspension - Opening doors with locks, hood, trunk - Removable body. Video: Some more photos: Body prototype:
  17. Here I am again. This time the subject is one of the very usual kind: one PFS IR commanded excavator. They are many exemples of perfect excavator on the web...but I just wanted mine, of my own design. So I study it from A to Z and I had to answer many of the questions that many people answer before.Surprisingly, I do not answer the same at some of them :) But first this is what we are talking about: This model as been design in one only goal : a maximum of fun to play with it. In order to match that goal, each and every motor Is directly connected to each function. No mechanics in there. The function are ultra classical : drive, steer, rotate and the 3 movements of the arm. I make use of L motor for the tracks and lifting main arm. Other are medium size motors. I also choose to keep it as compact as possible. The main issue I find on many creation on the web is a too big body resulting in a too big arm. Too big arm need lots of power and often be very slow to move. I try to get what I think is the best compromise in size and use of existing motors. (No pipa I do not have RC ones :) ) The tracks gives the global scale. As you see the BB is in the lower part of the structure. This is due to compactness of the upper part but also for better design of this last spoken upper part. As the excavator rolls only on flat surfaces, no use of any suspension in it... view from the downside the tracks are well integrated, and even with the BB there is a good ground clearance of 3T wich is very good. I also try to implement good action range at the arm: And also small details that makes it looks good, like 3 sets of lights, toolbox, ... Back view, easy acces to the BB to swictch on/off and replace (often:) ) batteries The top part is designed so replacing M motor by Large one is easy (I do command two of them, awaiting arrival) So here it is, not the Moc of the year for sure, but sometimes it's good to achieve some simple goals. As expected and designed for, this one is very fun to play with. Hope you'll enjoy it Steph.
  18. [WIP] 40+ km/h lego car Since i like to see some ideas and open discussions, i decided to make this project public. So lets start with the current progress: A few pictures of the first tries, with the following specs: - 4 motors, gearing 24:8 from low-speed-otput - 1 PF-battery-box, attached to an old 9V switch, controlling 1 of the 4 buggy motors. Switch is controlled by a micromotor powered with the auxilary output of the rc unit. - 3 motors powered with the RC unit - total weight (without speed computer, to stay below the magic number :D) -> 991g (1012g with the computer) 4th motor is used as a booster, activated with the auxiliary padels, once the car reached like 15 km/h Fresh video, done 1 hour ago ;) (38,7 km/h) ->
  19. Hey guys... while disassembling my newest purchase 8366 RC Supersonic Racer, i was pretty much surprised, when i looked at the serial numbers of the rc-parts. As you can see in the following images, there is the same number on ALL 4 electronical parts (each motor, the RC-unit and the remote). RC-unit motor 1+ motor 2 remote At my first 8366-set there was a different number on each part, as you can see in the following images: rc unit motor 1 motor 2 remote Does this mean, that my first model was put together from different sets? Or did they simply mix the parts at a special date of the production? Also i see a 5-digit serial number on one of my additionally bought motors, wich also includes a letter and not just numbers. Another special thing about this motor is the motorcover on the side, as you can see in the following pictures. I guess the 5-digit one is the newest, maybe out of a 8287 Motorbox-set, or a 8421 Mobile Crane-set? seperatly bought motor serial number 225K8 serial number 6292, 3282, 1263, 5383 Does anyone have more detailled information about all this?
  20. Hi all, I decided to have a go at this competition as it seemed like a laugh, and I had a lot of fun making what I currently have. My idea was to make a vehicle and strap a massive great machine gun sort of thing on it, and sticking it on the back of a truck seems like the perfect idea, right? But a truck with a machine gun on it's own would be rather boring, so I decided to give it adjustable pneumatic suspension, for those tricky bits of terrain it might encounter, and of course slam it right to the ground for that street cred. It's powered by a buggy motor, so it's pretty fast on flat surfaces. Mode 1, extremely low for maximum speed Mode 2, maximum height for off roading purposes! Of course, being hydraulic, the suspension can be at whatever height you want, but this is to prove the point. Now, my favourite part of this suspension is that it acts like the sort you'd find on one of those lowrider cars, and as such, it can pull off crazy moves like this, just for showing off purposes. The truck cab as it stands is still a work in progress, I'm not quite as good at aesthetics as I am at designing the technic part, so bear with me in that department! Here you can see the mechanism, it works with the pneumatic ram, and springs in order to give the desired effect. Tyre omitted for clarity. Apologies for the poor pictures, It's the fault of the camera. For the machine gun which I talk about, this is still all in my mind, however, I want to utilise some form of spinning disc mechanism and accelerate a plate or a technic beam at high velocity that way, but I will keep you all posted on that side of development Hope you all like it! -Ender
  21. I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHsky5B5Cd Instruction: Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B14dC4ffenNhR1NJa1ZuZGgzVVU Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ancnq6nvmtuuaja/Z06.zip?dl=0
  22. I felt like it was time to step up my game and start modeling more popular, more difficult Hypercars. I was able to create a suspension strong enough not to need torsion bar, for all you purists out there Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskZHoj1H The Lego car blog: https://thelegocarblog.com/2017/05/15/money-monday/ Photo Instructions: https://goo.gl/photos/TYFAPW11jpkdA2dTA The Chiron has curves & shapes difficult to replicate. This build began with the simplistic, strong and extremely reliable Framework. Features: custom W16 motor (designed by @DugaldIC), front and rear lights, 2wd - 4wd shifter, Steering with the Servo, 2 XL Motors for drive, 1 M motor for rear wing, Sbrick, LIPO battery, button to turn on the battery & independent suspension. The idea was to create a purely cosmetic build, and create the whole car as close to scale as possible. As this car has a fairly short front and rear end, the batteries and motors had to be between the wheels. The Servo for steering was tucked as low as possible in front of the of the wheels not to interfere with the hood / wheel wells. Bugatti Chiron - Rear end by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The framework is low as possible, 1 stud off the ground, 2 studs above the front wheels. This was a nightmare to allow the wheels to turn without rubbing on the inside. There are 10 lights on this car, the most I have ever added to my builds! I've got to give huge props to Dugald for the engine, and Sheepo for the car jack in the video Two builds, two bros - Bugatti Chiron &amp; Aston Martin Vantage GT3 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Two Bro's, two supercars
  23. RC MG Metro 6R4

    Hi! so, this is my first post on Eurobricks, I did actually make this model about a month ago, but I thought I might as well share it here too. MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr So, here is a list of its functions: Front and rear independent suspension 4-wheel drive (RC) steering (RC) Working front and rear lights (RC) opening doors opening rear door/boot/bonnet (or whatever else you want to call it)... A detailed interior (with a roll-cage and seats) and loads of stickers... MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr In total this model has 9 PF components: 2 L-motors, 2 pairs of lights, 1 servo motor, 2 AAA battery boxes, and 2 receivers/remotes. It was a bit of a struggle to cram all of them into such a small MOC, while still having independent suspension, and 4-wheel drive, but luckily I still managed to do it! This is the chassis I used for it: Lego Technic Compact 4-wheel drive chassis by All.About.Lego, on Flickr and of course, since I was doing the 6R4, I had no option but to make almost 40 stickers, just so I could recreate the iconic 'Computervision' livery which some of the 1980's group B rally cars had. MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr that's pretty much everything, so I hope you like it, and any comments would be apprecited! Here is the YouTube video: Some more pictures: MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr4 MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr here are some pictures of the original car: MG Metro 6R4 - Original car by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 - Original car by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 - Original car by All.About.Lego, on Flickr
  24. Hello everybody and let me present my version of a modified 42005 Monster Truck. It was my second set after my "dark age", that I've bought many years ago, after 42029 as supplementary set with a lot of useful pieces and planned to use for a live axle suspension and some other features for 42029 model. However, I liked the set as a simple and functional model and re-assembled it several times. Here is the model and later I'll provide the all details: A month ago, when I tired of infinite attempts to turn 41999 into a Muscle Car (the chassis isn't rigid enough, but I already did a great progress and hopefully will share it once) I returned to this model and set the task to motorize it adding 4WD, but keeping 4 wheels steering and current suspension (keep the original construction as possible as I can). First, I've analyzed the all existing attempts that I could find over EB, Rebrickable and YouTube and it happens that there were several MODs by different authors: First of all, it's @Splat’s MOD with all steered and driven axles (see topic here). I see no reason to duplicate its description, so let me just note that he saved the necessary features with adding Servo + L-Motor mounted under the hood and trunk. The chassis configuration is 4x4/4 or 4WD-4WS. It’s the best motorized model, I think, because of amazing simplicity and performance, but unfortunately it has a kind of “articulated” steering that isn't real, so was trying to made a "real" 4WD-4WS version, using this model as reference. Another one is Jan Dvorak’s (is he on EB?) MOD with all original features supplemented by on-axle L-Motor that drives the rear wheels and Servo for the 4WS. He added an additional 5X7 frame with differential that provided a necessary rigidness. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or RWD-4WS. Personally I don't like such a long axle sub-frame. However I've found a good idea of vertical gears inside the central shaft. The third one is @codefox421's MOD, inspired by Splat’s version, with the original front axle and non-steered custom rear axle with on-axle L-Motor. His custom rear axle, based on two portal hubs, is a quite compact and simple, but has no steering. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. It looks trial-ready with the portal hubs, but it's nearly impossible to add the steering here, so I got nothing from this model. An unusual @Tommy Styrvoky's MOD with an interesting feature: he modified the front axle, not the rear one, by adding a solid drivetrain with worm gear and on-axle M-Motor, so result is a front-wheels driven Monster Truck with oversized fake engine. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or FWD-4WS. Very aggressive! WRRRRR Daniel Wirasantosa’s (is he on EB?) MOD that differs from the previous ones by using of chassis-mounted L-Motor that drives the rear axle (that has a bit low ground clearance due to the 5x7 frame) and, moreover, he used a custom steering shaft that comes directly to the steering rack. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. Starting this version, I got a more or less defined plan: 4WD with off-axle (chassis-mounted) L-Motor that drives the both axles through the existing “drivetrain” (former steering shaft) and the off-axle Servo that steers the both axles through the custom steering shaft above the driveshaft. There were two more versions: Michael M’s stretched one and LEGOTechnic360’s solid-chassis version with no suspension, but they didn't help me with any new ideas. Nothing personal, guys, if you're reading it, I just had a full and consistent vision of my further MOD: Hull - the original with no changes. Axles geometry - original. I tried to save the all things like the wheels location, suspension mounting points, ground clearance, steering angles (that are even bigger a bit now)… And I still can't believe that made it, after a thousand tries! Suspension - original, with no changes. However I put the hard shock absorbers in the rear end, as the default ones were too weak to keep the BuWizz battery. Wheels - original. I decided to keep the original wheels and tires with no giant crawler ones or even Claas, that are too big even for a Monster Truck. Frame - mostly original, but possibly modified since it will have an L-Motor and Servo mounted above the axles (right under the cargo platform and hood). Drivetrain - it must be the ex-steering shaft that comes through the cardans inside the "big" ball joints to the both axles, connected to the L-Motor via the set of normal and clutch gears. Steering - for the all wheels, like in the original model, but the steering shaft comes above the drive shaft, in parallel with it and can slide a bit while the suspension moves. Enough the words...The most interesting part starts here. Following my plan, the bigger challenge was to modify the original axles - I tried several options, even trial-like with solid axles, but 4WS provides an amazing maneuverability due to big steering angles, so axle diffs are likely vital for such model (solid axles were making a permanent clicking noise in the transmission even with motor stalling sometimes) and I decided to make a fast Monster truck, not a slow crawler with a high torque. The drive train. There you can see how I did it: L-Motor rotates a set of 8T and 16T normal and clutch (required for the steering shaft) gears and then the main horizontal shaft, that were used for steering in the original model. After that the shaft rotates the 12T double bevel gears (ex-pinon gears from the original model), than 20T gears below, single-bevel 20T and the differentials. As result, the gearing ratio is 1:1.667 X 1:1.4 = 1.2334, and provides about ~100 RPM with 15.12 N.cm torque. The wheels connected by a wheel hubs, since I wasn't able to use the universal and CV joints with affordable steering angles, wheels position (I kept exactly the same position as in 42005) and rigidness. The steering. Here you can see the servo (mounted upside down in order to provide more space for the battery block above, steering shaft that goes above the driveshaft, 12T gears (pinions) and 13L racks joined to the wheel hubs. In order to allow the suspension travel, the gears has 1/2L offset from the racks and slides together with the shafts along the mounting points when the suspension compresses. It's a fully legal, but still allowed in LDD and works like a charm! The only mistake that the hubs must be from Claas, but they aren't presented in LDD unfortunately: Just to explain why I used the clutch gears (but with no gearbox actually, ha-ha ), the drive and steering systems intersects so hard, so followed TLG way and used the same solution that they did in the official models (42029, for example) - passed the one through the other. Green is a drive subsystem, blue - steering. Other images, the story of a modified hull (by Phil), LDD file and instruction in PDF are coming soon...
  25. The darkest time has comed, bad forces of.... wait, meh just kids existing in my house knowded as my cousines just have used my rc controller as boat in pool. So, yeah - i need help with getting new, i have decieded that i will buy those pistol typed rc controller, i know that it has to have tacting at 27.145 mhz, but is that all? if i buy pistol typed controller tacting at 27.145 mhz will it actually work? And final question is range, my though is that normal rc controllers would have better range but correct me if im wrong. Im surprisingly happy even my controller was used as boat, maybe cause of that it was used as boat supposed to transport Little ponnies :P