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Found 501 results

  1. So I've been contemplating what to build for the contest as the volume restrictions is something that should fall exactly in my area of expertise, but with RC allowed, it got a bit complex. To fully handle a crane or excavator you need 5 or 6 motors, so either two hubs or something like buwizz 3.0 which supports 6 motors, and I'm not really sure if I'll be able to fit all that perfectly within the specified volume while not making it a messy build. So I decided to stick to stuff that I can power with a single hub, and I love the ease of use of physical remote from CADA so I ended up deciding to go with a tracked vehicle + two mechanical functions, so after looking at multiple options I decided to pick a tracked skid-steer loader - a bobcat: I like this one because it has an interesting geometry of the arms, which I expect to be there in order to prevent the bucket getting closer to the cab while the arms are getting raised. I yet have to test this theory. Here's a concept / design so far: I tested the geometry of the arm against keeping the bucket at same angle while the arm is changing its angle, assuming the lever holding liftarm over the arm has fixed angle, and it works more or less. I don't have a bucket yet, and I've got to figure out the driving connection for it that has a significant gear reduction as well as it should have some safety like clutch gear, but I'm not sure if it is a good idea considering weight of the bucket. I'm not 100% sure that I'll be able to go with the design of the arm that is supported by that liftarm to move forward/keep horizontal position of the bucket, especially because of the requirements for the bucket tilt lever connection to the motor. Additional note here is that the tracks are shaped in a way that rear gears one exactly above each other because I couldn't achieve optimal track tension in other configurations and also I would have to make more space for the attachment of linear actuators behind the tracks and it would complicate the base structure. Finally I might end up with arms hitting the cab, so maybe I'll have to move them by 1 stud to the sides, which would made the proportions weird, but I don't think I'll be able to shrink the cab without showing a mess of cables.
  2. Hi there everybody! It's been a while since I posted anything here, but allow me to present my latest Project: A small scale Tiger II tank! Years ago when I got first into World of Tanks Blitz, the Tiger II was my favorite tank. I still play it sometimes, so I decided to build it. My goal for this Tank was simple: To get all the functions big RC tanks have in a small scale tank model, and still make it look good. - RC driving (powering the front drive sprocket) - RC turret rotation - RC gun elevation/depression - Suspension system to replicate the torsion bar suspension From the beginning it was clear that this would not be possible using LEGO electronics due to the size constraints. I used a CADA Battery box, 2x M motor (drive) and 2x Micro motor (Turret+Gun) to power the tank. The rest of the Tank can be built with 100% LEGO with some minor color changes, especially on the insides to save money. Building istructions are on Rebrickable for 8.8 EUR I hope you like my little gray cat and am looking forward to your comments Gray Gear
  3. Here is my first attempt of building a rc trophy truck: Thanks to @brickosouch for the Inspiration and sharing the stl files for ball bearing lift arms!
  4. Let´s start with brand new model for the LEGO Technic Challenge. A 29 cm tall figure of American astronaut with moving wrists, elbows and shoulders. The helmet is equipped with two PF lights and both arms are operated by PF M motors. The model is remote controlled and powered by rechargeable LEGO battery.
  5. Hello, i like to show you my version of a drifting G-Class. Bodywork design is by i just did some modifications to fit my 4wd chassis with rc components. propulsion: buggy motor steering: geek servo receiver: Radiolink battery: 7.4V LiPo here are some pictures: and a clip: Hope you like it 😊 Cheers, Friedl
  6. I have finally found the time to finish this MOC of a Morooka tracked dumper. It is loosely based on the Morooka MST 2200VD. The model is controlled using an S-brick and powered by the regular lego technic power functions battery box. Each track is driven by an PF L motor with a 1:1 ratio, giving the model plenty of speed and enough torque to drive over obstacles etc. Dumping is also motorized using a PF L motor driving a linear actuator. The battery box is hidden under the openable hood, and can be easily accessed and removed (although a lot easier if the dumpbed is up :)) Other functions include an openable door and a lock for the gate on the dumpbed, that opens if you dump. I tried to make a video but you guys will have to wait a bit longer because my baby is making a lot of noise in the background so I have to make a new one sometime when he is asleep :) Edit: made a new video - the period in the beginning when nothing happens is when the buwizz in the tractor fails to connect Some more pictures: Let me know what you think!
  7. Hi everone Last weekend the Modellbaumesse Ried took place together with the LIGA+MP and the AFOL Technic Team action area. I was also there and made a video recap of the action area. New and old scale models were shown. This year the first time a large conveyer belt and gravel plant was presented and was fun to play with our models. The next exhibition with the AFOL Technic Team will take place in Fürth, Germany at the Bricking Bavaria from 18. to 20. of November.
  8. Finally got around to filming. This thing is absurd it gives some hobby grade Rc crawlers a bad name. 20221017_203011 by michael waterfield, on Flickr Minifigure is not quite to scale lol, you can also see the airlines for the locker 20221017_202949 by michael waterfield, on Flickr Body proportions aren't great but not terrible either not helped by the lack of conventional suspension and the hideous compressor 20221017_202755 by michael waterfield, on Flickr Here you can really get a sense of how much is going on, including the gears in the planetary hubs there are 86 gears in just the drive train. Traxxas tires use a strange bead, I assume for drm, which made it hard to make rims for. My solution is not perfect but works for the slow speed. The rims neck down internally to ride the jockey wheels on the hubs, this acts like a wheel Bearing and allows for these huge tires without them wobbling all over the place. Traxxas summit tires are some of the largest rock crawling Rc tires you can get but this might change as more people get into 1/6 crawlers (this truck is 1/12 and still bigger than some 1/6 trucks) If I use it more I will need to add some more metal bushings to the axle drop boxes, as I have already had one instance of pieces melting then fusing together. This still uses my home brew motors which have proven themselves to be reliable with only one failure on my direct drive buggy which has since gained a Cush drive to prevent it from happening again. The Cv joints are holding up well with only surface level erosion but I do keep them well lubricated. Hopefully I won't have to machine metal ones. Spinning all four wheels on tarmac is crazy for tires this big and gummy. Idk what else to say, enjoy the video (walkthrough and action shots) Pity I don't have a zeroes to compare it to though
  9. Here's my latest creation: Ferrari F40 Model Info: Scale: 1:10 Size: L45, W21, H12, cm Weight: 1476g Parts: 1589 Features: - Remote control - Working V8 engine - Independent suspension - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Pop-up headlights - Modular construction - PF: 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo Video: Pictures: More images: Building instruction made in Bricklink Studio coming with 564 steps on 442 pages:
  10. Hello everyone! I would like to introduce you my new top-tech mid-scale Trophy Truck "Falcon". This car is a TRUE RC car in Lego clothing. Technical characteristics Full independent suspension with positive caster on all wheels Minimalistic and strong transmission with metal CV-joints 4 - wheel drive 4 Buwizz motors for propulsion (1 motor per wheel) Custom RC controllers adapted for Lego 3S Li-Po 35C 2600 mAh for power GeekServo for steering soft RC wheels 75 mm Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings Light bodywork, 1270 gram of total mass Instructions? Some of you might be interested in instructions. Well, there will be non, I am sorry! Here I will explain why instructions for this car are impossible. Falcon has 4 Buwizz motors for power, which can be easily changed to Buggy motors or Mould King version. Power source and controllers could be replaced with two Buwizz 3.0 units (in theory). But there is no way to replicate both suspension and transmission with lego parts only. Non-Lego solutions: Custom 3D-printed parts, such as wheel hubs, steering arms, suspension arms with 4,5 stud length Modified Lego parts Hand-made parts from plastic bottle ;-) Broken Pythagorean theorem in suspension metal parts, which make the whole car rigid Chassis Falcon has same chassis as a Wilde beast, but with shorter wheel base and suspension arms. So I will not dive into details here. Bodywork I was inspired by a Trophy Truck by Keymaker`s armored Trophy Truck. Though I reduced some details and widen the body by two studs to fit the chassis. Made for outdoor driving This car is not a shelf model. It was made for regular, extensive and extreme driving. Recall, that the elder brother Wilde Beast had a problem with motors: they were not strong enough to translate all the power from Li-Po battery to 90 mm RC wheels. That is why Falcon was made in a smaller scale to fit 75 mm wheels. Now motors does not struggle at all! Enjoy drifting on sandy road? - easilly! Lego Outdoor cars usually struggle from dust and dirt filling the transmission. This car has a minimalistic transmission without Differential, so there is noting to break. The weakest parts of lego cars (wheel hubs with CV joints) have been replaced with custom hubs with metal bearings - no more plastic dust in transmission! And nothing to brake! Massive 3S Li-Po provide an hour-long continuous driving. RC controller with physical buttons is very comfortable to use. After two weeks of tests I added fenders for the front wheels to keep the inside of the car from being filled with stones. 4WD drifting is a fun thing to play with, but I got tired from cleaning the car from small stones after each driving session!
  11. Hello everyone! I am glad to introduce you my new Lego MOC. It is called "Wilde Beast" and it is a 1:10 scale 4-wheel drive pickup truck. Technical characteristics 1:10 scale, 1.630 kg of total weight All wheel drive with 4 x Buwizz motors powering each wheel separately 2 x Geek servo for steering 3S Li-Po for power RC radio + Wixy units for control Full independent suspension with customizable hardness Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings RC wheels 90 mm (12 mm hexes) Metal U-joints in the transmission Robust 3D-printed steering bones Positive caster angle on all wheels Back to the beginning The main Idea behind the build was inspired by real e-cars. This cars has no gearbox, and each wheel gets connected to an e-motor independently. I tried to replicate this principle with Lego bricks and some custom parts. Bodywork This car has is a 1:10 scale pick-up truck body, Though it is a bit too short for a normal pickup. The body was made to be light and it is build on the chassis with a half-stud off-set in order to make the wheels seating symmetrically in wheel arches. (It was an obligatory decision due to the positive caster angle). There are many things that can be improved in the bodywork, but the current one perfectly satisfy my needs: it is light but make the car somewhat recognizable as a car. Hope to find white fenders to the front wheels some time! All the driving elements are located in the lower 5 studs of the car, so it is very stable. Suspension Wilde Beast has a full independent suspension with positive caster, which is very unusual for pickups. Moreover it was made to be customizable for different purposes. 9L shocks connected to the lower bones of the suspension play main role. At the same time upper bones of the suspension has their own set of shocks which can be customizable! Custom wheel hubs provide a natural King-Pin Inclination. Transmission "A good transmission - is no transmission"... This was my main philosophy for this car. The car has 4x Buwizz motors for propulsion, each motor is connected to one wheel of the car via half-axle (which uses metal U-joints). "Gear Ratio": Slow output of Buwizz motor -> 95 mm wheel. Such solution has its own positive and negative aspects. Positive: extremely low friction stiffness fast cornering (e-differentials) High maximal speed (over 13 km/h) Negative: Too big stress on motors (a smaller wheels would work well) Car does not go straight due to the difference in motors Let me explain the last "problem" in more details. The motors used in the car are "the" same from the view-point of a lego builder. Though they are "different" from the physical view point: each motor has individual characteristics, such as resistance, max power, max rotation speed and so on... This difference can not be seen in slow models (with max speed under 7 km/h) but they became critical at speeds over 10 km/h. As the result, car is always turning to one side and the driver need to correct the trajectory with a steering. There are only two ways to fix this problem: either to make a mechanical balancing via differentials, or to test each motor separately, and make individual power curve to it. A steering system with build-in hygroscope might also help. Controls The car is controlled via RC radio. The whole system is very similar to RC car setup. 3S Li-Po is used for power, it powers controllers for driving motors (called Wixy). The controllers provide the power to Buwizz motors by a signal of receiver. The model is steered with 2 x GeekSevo, though one would be enough here. To see a detailed description of the system, see here: Conclusion The Wilde Beast was a great research project for me. I tried to replicate a real e-car layout and my goal was achieved. Car is very fun to drive, but the driver needs to pay a careful attention to the road. The main problem of the car is the lack of the e-brains which would allow to calibrate the driving motors... P.S. I will definitely make another car with same chassis on smaller wheels to reduce the load on motors.
  12. Well the teardown of my Koenigsegg Regera is done, instructions are being tested and video is released. Huge thanks to my brother Lachlan Cameron for your amazing teardown photos and killer video edit. Thanks to Justin Wong for being the Guinea pig for the build and your patch notes along the way. Hey all, soo it's been a very long while since I've posted anything. Probably over two years now, however I have been busy in my spare time. For over two years now I've been working on the Koenigsegg Regera. By far my most challenging build to date, especially considering I've been working on Both and HOG and an RC at the same time. The HOG will be Dark Azure/Black centre with White accents and interior. So may I present to you the Regera, it's still a work in progress but everything is pretty well there. It's missing seats, stickers and a few things need adjusting but for the most part it's all there. This car will be on display at the Bricks in the Six Lego convention this weekend so I thought I'd share some early pictures before ones get taken and shared from the show. As always there will be a Video and instructions to follow. But first I need to get the HOG model finished as well. Either way here's some pictures a list of functions. The drivetrain is simple, on the RC it's just drive and steer, no gearbox as the real car is direct drive. 4 L motors for drive and one servo for steering, with a fake V8 in the back, the suspension is where it starts to get interesting, the rear is triplex suspension, unequal length control arms, with integrated sway bar like the real thing, the front is also unequal length suspension, cantalievered with torsion bar and sway bar, the front also raises and lowers a stud and when raising up flaps under the front valance deploy and tuck back up when the car lowers back down. The interior the seats slide and recline, the steering moves up and down in the centre console there's a lever which is a brand new concept which allows you to switch between opening, the left door, the right door, or both doors at the same time. Now when you're opening those doors which are Synchro dihedral the mirrors will fold in as the doors open out and upwards just like the real car. The front and rear clam shells will open as well and there's a lever in the back which will allow you to open the front, the back or both at the same time. On the rear clamshell is the rear wing which is on a cam that raises upward and outward and raises out of the back. The roof is removable like the real car, and can store underneath the front clamshell while still leaving enough room for a tote bag. There's also a manual and an RC model the manual model has two gears the dash the first is to open the doors, and the other to steer. The RC model has drive and steering that's hooked up to the fake V8, the doors and the clam shells are also motorized being able to switch between the front and rear or both at the same time. It also has LED lights front and rear. So overall this is a very in-depth detailed and accurate model in sense of functions.
  13. Dear all. Allow me to introduce my latest MOC which was in development long time now, its supposed to be scaled replica of CLAAS Torion 1914 wheel loader from CLAAS company in 1:17 Scale. The reason why i chose this moc was due to lack of other "colour" machinery in this segment and also being kind of specific wheeloader for agrocultural sphere which i love. Claas Torion 1914 is colaboration with Liebherr on joint wheelloader project, Liebherr version is L550 and up. Model is combination of technic chassis and functions with system easthetics. Over 2000 pieces and 4 motors of Control + type allows for good looks and good playability, althrought a bit limited by weaker PU motors compare to PF, i chose PU to get in new wave of tech + easier and cheaper accesibility on market as the PF functions are getting more expensive. Functions are provided by 3x L PU motor and 1x XL PU motor Driver 1x XL Steering 1x L Pneumatics #1 1x L Pneumatics #2 1x L Each L motor serves for pump and switch together by sariel pump/switch combo, but modified to suit my needs in this build. there are two 6L pumps connected to each motor without any air tank so the actions are not so snappy and responsive and it all depends on the power of motors and batteries. due to this i am seriosly considering upgrading to Buwizz 3.0 to see if it will make it perform better and faster. I don't usually know what more to type about the MOC so i will answer every question in comments section if i will be able. Enjoy the photos (video later today)
  14. Hello Eurobricks! Here is a Blue Mamba V2 - a wild mix of energy and rigidity. The story begins. Several months ago I build a fast off-roader for the King Of The Hammers competitions. The main idea behind that car was the minimalistic transmission. Well, there were now gears in the transmission, but there were CV-joints at the front axle and they were very weak! There was no way to fix that problem until one Russian AFOL comes with the custom wheel hubs with metal bearings and metal U-joints! These hubs allow to use a variety of RC wheels with 12 Hexes. Awesome! I purchased a set of custom hubs, and started the development of the Blue Mamba V2. Before diving into details I want to highlight another principal change in V2 project. V1 Mamba was powered by Buwizz 3.0 unit, but it drowned with my mid-scale trophy truck this spring. So for V2 Mamba I bought a custom Lego-compatible compatible RC controllers “Wixy” provided by another Russian AFOL. These controllers allowed me to use all benefits of GeekServo and Powerful 3S Lipo with 2600 mAh capacity. Bodywork. The car has a minimalistic bodywork. All panels used as structural elements. There is a plenty of space for the cockpit if one would sort all the wirings. The only decorative element is a fake V6 engine located behind the cockpit. Currently I have no PF motor available to make the engine work, but I keep in mind such possibility. Drivetrain. Blue Mamba V2 is a true E-vehicle with 4 PF L-motors powering each wheel independently without any transmission. Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings and metal U-joints make the transmission totally undestroyable. My goal was to minimize the width of the car. But the complexity of the front axle provided a lot of restrictions, so I had to widen front axle by 2 studs comparing to V1 Mamba. V1 Mamba has a steering motor located in the cockpit and linked to the front axle with new CV-joints. I replicated same configuration to the V2, but driving tests revealed big wobbling of the steering system, so I decided to place a GeekServo on the front axle (luckily it is very compact). A small regret is that GeekServo is not powerful enough for this wide and grippy RC wheels, It can not return them back if the car does not move. Likely, a positive caster angle of the front axle helps to back steering when car moves. Suspension. Mamba has 3-Link bridges at both axles with heavy-duty suspension arms. I had many attempts with the spring attachment. Finally, I understood that a responsive suspension requires a direct mounting of springs to the axles. 9.5 L shocks has very good springs (comparing to the soft 9.5 L one), but they were too hard for the car because all motors were placed on axles. An interesting idea came to my mind: why don`t you place these shocks diagonally? It works like a charm! Control. Car has a low center of gravity due to the placement of motors and 3S Lipo batteries. In addition, it has a proper wheel base and grippy tires, which makes the car very stable. Accuracy of GeekServo and RC transmitter provide a very smooth driving experience (though a stronger servo motor would improve the performance). Finally, 4WD helps to go through any terrain, such as sand, grass, etc… The top speed of the car is about 8.5 - 9 km/h. So it is very interesting to play with it outdoors and take it for a walk, since it has enough speed to drive back and forth while person walks. I tested this car with 120 mm RC wheels. The motors have enough power to handle and increased load while all the other plastic components (such as steering elements) were struggling a bit... On my opinion, 95-100 mm wheels are the optimal solution for fast outdoor cars. From one hand they provide a decent ground clearance and able to roll over the bumps. From the other hand they does not provide a lot of stress to the Lego parts. ' Conclusion. After multiple outdoor tests I conclude, that Blue Mamba V2 is the perfect Lego car, which is capable to go through any terrain with decent speed. It is strong and efficient and very controllable vehicle, which is pleasure to drive! Though It is too fast for trial. It is hard to go 2 km/h balancing between obstacles and barriers. But this is not a disadvantage, simply because each vehicle has it`s own areas of use. P.S. Speaking about Wixy Some of you wanted to know more about "Wixy" setup. So I placed all the component on the desk and marked them as follows: Wixy units RC receiver 3S Lipo PF motors Geek servo "Wixy" unit plays a role of an RC ESC unit, and it connects to the other electronic components in the same way: B-cable transmit the power from Li-Po batteries to the bottom PF connector (input) of Wixy units. A-cable feeds an RC receiver for Wixy units and translates the controlling signal at the opposite direction. Unusually for drive the "Channel 2" is reserved. PF motors get connected to the top PF connector (output) of Wixy units. GeekServo gets connected to the receiver. Two Wixy units provide enough power to feed GeekServo, otherwise I can plug and extra power from one of B-cable outputs (there is one specific 3-pin one). At the second picture all components are connected. It is important to note, that a Single "Wixy" unit can transmit only 3A to the motors, but it is the maximal power which PF connectors can handle . So you have to use one unit per Buggy motor. Luckily, 3S Lipo as an enormous amount of power, so it can handle 10 Buggy motors easily! Hope I cleared out the "Wixy" setup for you, but if you have any questions left, do not hesitate to ask them!
  15. Hello everyone. This is a story of my mid-scale RC baja truck called “Phantom”. The beginning. I always had a strong desire to go fast. For that reason I made my Red Roadster powered by Buwizz motors (See my Profile for dedicated post). But this sport car has one significant disadvantage - it requires a very smooth road! So I decided to build a trophy truck. I learned a lot about trophy trucks made with Lego. Best of them had 2 Buggy motors for propulsion with a direct connection to the rear wheels. So I decided to build myself a similar setup. First trophy truck I designed in big scale (~1:10) but Buwizz motors were struggling with a load from big wheels (and that is not a problem of motors, but a problem of construction). So I made a portal reduction and the problem was solved. After that I build an ultimate dune Buggy “Dragonfly” with independent suspension driven by couple of Buwizz motors. The result was great, Buwizz motors allowed to drive it very fast on 85 mm wheels. So I decided to build a trophy truck with them. Such wheel size is the smallest one which could be used outdoors. Smaller wheels does not provide enough of ground clearance to go full speed on bumpy terrain. Photos. Front axle. I started the build with the front suspension. A technical task was the following: - to use big Lego wheel hubs - double steering rack - positive caster angle - ridged suspension arms I took many ideas from the front suspension of my Dune buggy and tried to make it smaller. Dune buggy used 9,5 L shocks so I decided to change them to 7 L shocks. Also I was able to avoid ball connections, since they struggle a lot at bumpy roads. Here is the result. The steering motors should get connected to the vertical black axe (on the first picture). The key idea was to place steering arms horizontally and in a slight diagonal way. Such placement caused some friction in the steering system, but from the other hand it reduced the wobbling to ZERO! Also there is a 3 studs distance from the connection of steering arms to the wheel hub and the pivot point of the hub (see picture 2). It reduces the maximal steering angle, but strengthen the steering system and make the control smoother! Rear axle. A technical task was the following: - direct mounting of Buwizz motors to the rear axle - Long suspension arms and long travel - Suspension with progressive hardness I decided to make it simple without any articulation, though there was some provided by bending of plastic parts. There are two sets of springs used. Small vibrations of the rear axle get absorbed by a soft 9.5 springs, while hard bumps compress the rear axle stronger, so the set of 7 L springs does their job. Finally, there is a couple of Lego rubber elements which play a role of fenders. So there are three stages of compression. First stage. Soft settings. Second stage. Hard settings. Third stage. Rear axle touches the frame. Frame of the car and bodywork. A technical task was the following: - two layers of frame - use the roof of the car as structural element - minimalistic bodywork The space frame of the car consist of two layers. Roof of the car tighten the upper layer in order to bear the load from the rear springs. The middle compartment is dedicated to power sources. The "new" cross-beams (15L and 11L) were very helped a lot. The bodywork is made with several panels which can be easily detached for servicing the electronics. Electronics. On photos above you can see a custom Lego-compatible RC unit equipped with two high power cells 18650. It provides more power comparing to Buwizz 2.0, but it is not enough for two Buwizz motors. It get overheated quite fast (5-10 mins). One may ask me, why I use it. Actually, the first version of the Phantom was powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units, which provided a plenty of power to the car. But I managed to drown the car at first outdoor driving test! So I bought replacement for them since there was no possibility to purchase new Buwizz units in Russia. Here is the video of an accident: This month I bought a different Lego-compatible RC electronics from a Russian AFOL, it is called "Wixy". It plays a role of the controller for RC motors and allows to power my cars with 3S Lipos! WIth 3S Lipo I forgot about lack of power and was able to ride the Phantom for miles and miles... Conclusion. The car Is made for outdoor driving. It has a decent speed and a good control. Though there are several weak places of Phantom which can not be fixed with plastic Lego parts. The dust is very annoying, especially on county roads! It fills all holes of the car, most importantly plastic wheel hubs. I destroyed all the wheel hubs I own and there is no way of fixing the problem... Also the car has slight problems with ground clearance - it is acceptable for city roads but too small for stony surfaces. Finally, the Truck can not go trough the tall grass with such small wheels and RWD.
  16. Hello everyone, today I`m going to reveal to all of you my Red coupe MOC that I placed on my avatar ;-) A long long story begins There is a long story of development of this car. It starts with my childhood dream and the First Lego technic PF car (see ) (that I built in 2012). After I left my hobby for about 4-5 years. And then I returned with RC MOD of Chevrolet Corvette set (see ). After that I tried to deal with a big scale (1:10) by building an RC MOC of Porsche 911 RSR (see ) - that was a big challenge for me and required a significant upgrade of my lego workshop... At the very end of my story with Porsche, I get some ideas for a new car... but to build a car from that ideas took me 2 more months. The cassis and first ideas of the body I was developing a new RC chassis for my Porsche 911, it is a long process, you know... Finally, the chassis has been developed. It was built out of ideas and I was very pleased with it! I needed to add several mounting points to it in order to swap the body. The chassis was waiting for me on the next desk where I used to play lego and I was doing my everyday job on computer. Then suddenly, I looked up onto a shelf and noticed, that fenders from Land Rover set 42110 has a nice shape as a front grill! I checked my idea, and it worked! At that moment I realized that the story of a new car begins!... To build the back lights of the new car I use the old Bionicle heads! And made first lines of the roof and A-pillars After that the process stopped... New fenders from Ferrari set Process stopped... I was struggling a low with making the wheel arched for front wheels... the bonnet I made required me to make a very sport-like very slime and curved wheel arches. At the same time they needed to be sturdy enough for outdoor driving and also provide some space for the suspension travel... After a month of unsuccessful attempts I was ready to give up! But likely for me, the new Lego set Ferrari 42125 has arrived! I waited for another month for a "good" price since it was totally overpriced form the very beginning. The Ferrari fenders bring the new power to me. Also they provided the color for the car. To finish the bodywork in red I bought two Ducati sets their parts help me a lot! On the photo you can see the gorgeous moment of attachment of the side-panels to the car. After I solved the problem with fenders, the car was assembled piece by piece in such a way, that all my ideas nearly "provide" the form of the car and the part use. As you can see, the first prototype of a bonnet was lifted up to be a roof ;-). Some underlying ideas for bodywork: - Short front and back bumpers (comparing to the Porsche set) - Front grill with a fender from the Land Rover set - Narrowing door panels The car has no interior and no doors, since I was building an RC car. I was saving the weight. Final car with batteries (Buwizz) has a total weight of 1,5 kg. Photos of a finished car Hope you like it! After finishing the first version, I made a significant update of it. Now it is equipped with 2 powerful Buwizz motors and powered by 2 Buwizz 3.0 bricks. The total weight is 1,63 kg and the mass of the car is moved closer to the rear wheels for a better grip. All electronics is located in the lowest 5 studs of a car so it is very stable and quite fast (about 12 km/h) it is really fun to play. But you heed a flat areas since the ground clearance is about 2 studs (all in all it is a sport car). The suspension is independent and very responsive. I have no video to share for now and the winter has already come, so I will wait until spring! Now im 100% involved in 4x4 technic RC off-roaders.... P.S. I will try to make a OPDF instruction for my MOC, but it will take a lot of times. And if you have any questions, no not hesitate to ask me - the car was not disassembled and it is waiting for the warn and sunny days on a shelf ;-)
  17. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)
  18. Finally finished a first version of a LEGO RC Car with 2 in-wheel, brushless motors. While I know some of you hate the combination of RC electronics and LEGO, others enjoy these hybrid models (hence this post). If you are more the purist type and in favour of LEGO only, please skip this. If you like stretching the envelope using (RC) electronics please have look and let me hear your thoughts. While searching for brushless in-wheel motors I ran into the ideal product: Turnigy Multistar 4225-610Kv. It mounts easily onto LEGO (same measurements) and fits almost any 56-rim. The result is spectacular. Great speed, no wear-out, all traction goes to the wheels, no gears necessary. Sadly, it turns out this motor is no longer available (working on an alternative). Car also includes an (adjustable) software differential running on an Arduino Nano, works surprisingly well. When fully applied the car has serious oversteer, when turned to 0 the car has understeer. The body of the car is a 54100 modified boat hull . It took some cutting but ended up nicely. Please have a look at the video here:
  19. I'd like to share my most recent model - 1:10.5 replica of 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429. Boss 429 was the high performance variant of first generation Mustang, equipped with a powerful 7.0 V8 engine. Only 1359 were made, and now there is one more :D Watch it in all its glory: Functions: RC drive - RWD with differential, 2x L motors RC transmission - 4 speeds, sequential, M motor Detailed V8 engine replica with fan connected directly to propulsion motors RC steering - with moving steering wheel, M motor Front suspension - double wishbone Rear suspension - floating axle Openable hood with lock controlled from the cabin Openable doors with locks Openable trunk Adjustable seats (sliding forward - backward and seatback angle adjustment) RC front lights Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I am quite happy with how I managed to include all the functions without compromising on proportions and interior in a relatively small model (46cm long). The biggest challenges were to fit piston engine over the suspension with the blue air intake under the hood without lifting it (as the result I had to make the hood hollow below the external air intake but still it was tight) and to fit interior over the gearbox. For that purpose I made the transmission very flat with gear shifting shaft actually crossing the drive shaft... (can be seen in action in the video - 2:30) I hope you liked this model.
  20. i just created some Lego battlebots maybe im hosting a little competition in Singapore during December holidays so far i have made a literal tank of a battlebot (brick on the floor with rotating cylinder) and it works decently here is it going against a smaller bot thats the fight of 3 rounds also the smaller one got completely demolished lol
  21. Hey folks, I want to share with you one of my current projects, the RC Superbikes. It is another of those self-balancing motorcycles, but has some nice additional specs which might have considered to not work in the brick-universe. Unluckily I couldn't finish the superbike project this summer, final highspeed runs will have to take place in the next summer to have some warm tarmac again for giving some additional grip. Specs Scale 1/6.5 Weight ~650g Single swingarm construction for the rear wheel Working transmission via chain Powered by Buwizz 3 Two buggy motors 1x Custom 5L Liftarm made out of aluminium with a ballbearing included Theoretical topspeed should be astonnishing 62 km/h, basing on the 2500 rpm with BW3 at 12V peak (which by its scale would translate into 403 km/h) Real world maximum speed may be lower due to physics kicking in (wobble, weave) Pictures All together Kawasaki H2R - black/chrome Kawasaki H2R - white/green (tuned BuWizz Edition) Ducati Panigale V4R Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade Videos Videos related to the RC Superbike Series can be found in my Youtube playlist: What are your thoughts?
  22. This is probably optimistic, but I am in the planning stage of building a massive landship /vehicle transporter. I do plan to build it for real after I complete the studio model. These are the functions I would like to have. The 1st pic is certain - drive, steer, lift. The 2nd pic are functions that would be nice to have - secret door and crane. The 3x19 frames are just to show the distance. This is what i have so far: This all started when I saw this video in my YouTube feed. Then a little while later this came up and so then I wanted to make my own version of a landship In more detail. This is the rear axle: This is the lift mechanism in more detail. The backboard of the lift would be removed for the secret door to have vehicle storage under the deck a bit like an aircraft carrier: Also feel free to suggest a better name for the vehicle. I am keen for suggestions and feedback. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
  23. Hi Guys, Here to share my RC MODs and MOCs, wish you like them. Please comment below. Thanks! Bricks Studio/mocs/ [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42143 Ferrari Daytona SP3 Power functions -BuWizz 3.0 x1 -Driving: PF XL motor x2 -Steering: PF Servo motor x1 - Doors: PU M motor x2 - Engine cover: PU M motor x1 [RC] LEGO Technic 42141 McLaren F1 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42130 BMW M 1000 RR controlled by BuWizz App [RC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari 488 GTE + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42115 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L & M motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 Lamborghini Sian with BuWizz 2.0 [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42110 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 2 PU L Motors [RC] LEGO Technic 42110 RC Land Rover Defender with BuWizz 2.0 [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 Bugatti Chiron with BuWizz 2.0 My alternative F1 MOCs were made by 42083/42110/42115, [MOC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari F1 Car [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 RC Lamborghini F1 car
  24. I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. EDIT: final version of the semi: Instructions: (Semi Tractor) (Box Trailer) The first iteration/prototype: Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: Sneak peek of the instructions:
  25. Some might still remember this offroader I started sometime ago in 2019 and showed earlier versions in the 8081 mods thread a while ago. Well, I finally "finished" it now and created digital models for it. I call it the COMMANDO and it is "sold" by MM (Mars Motors). People that follow my Turbo Racers series and my series of 42093 scale cars with swappable engines should already know MM. To show its capabilities I made a trip to a special location and examined what it can do there. Have a look into the video to see what it possible: The configuration in this video has all axles locked and uses the drivetrain variation #2 (see below). The COMMANDO started as the glorious 8081 A model and went through lots of modifications - especially to the front and rear axles and also to the outer hull - on the way to the final result. I created three versions so far: with 1 x PF AA battery box with 2 x PF AAA battery boxes with BuWizz 2.0 ...from which the BuWizz one was used during the video and also most of the time I drove it so far. Here are a few more detailed pictures showing it in that terrain: Here are two pictures showing the chassis construction (click to magnify): ...and here are the three drivetrain variations that can be used (click to magnify) More variations are possible and the gearing can be changed with relative ease, as the motors are not an integral part of the construction: #1 is used for the PF versions and #2 is used for the BuWizz version. #3 can be used to examine the effects of open differentials in offroad situations. The COMMANDO can use various tyres and clearance should be good enough for all of them: 45982 81.6 x 38 R Balloon tyres 18450 81.6 x 44 R (Tumbler) tyres 69912 81 x 35 Tractor (Zetros) tyres I have also already designed a few addons that will be released at a later time - need to create the digital models first - and I have even more ideas for it. So far I have available: front winch rear PTO exploration gear tracks So stay tuned for additions. I hope you like the COMMANDO and I hope it is a worthy successor to the 8081 A model. If you're interested, the - free of charge - digital models (Studio files with detailed steps and submodels) and more pictures are available on Rebrickable: