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Found 348 results

  1. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  2. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  3. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/bc17ae38-b3e7-4cb2-b804-401e0bcc7aef Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  4. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . LXF-file here and LDR-file here. @mj002, this includes all reductions I did, also to the chassis. I also removed the transversal inclined beams I reported about in the wip-topic recently. Eventually I could reduce slack in the rear suspension arm mounts much more efficiently and with far less parts. All together I reduced the number of parts by 200. I had to take the whole model apart to make all the adjustments . If you want to build this from the LXF-file, please take notice of a few important pointers: The 5.5L axles used in the front wheel hubs should be the old version. These are slightly shorter and can be recognized by more sharp axle-ends. As far as I know, all black ones are old ones. See also this topic. To minimize wear, it is advisable to lubricate the turntables and the springs with silicon spray (don't use any other (petrol based) lubricants as they will react with ABS). Thanks for the suggestion @Permo! Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  5. I build Lego transformers but this will mostly be about my rc cars and other technic related builds
  6. It’s that time that I present again. This time I built a Race/Off-road Truck. It uses 2 L motors for drive and servo motor for steering. Manual 2 speed gearbox with 1:3 and 3:1 gear ratios. It’s only rear wheel drive. Double wishbone independent front suspension and live rear axle. Special things are gullwing lockable doors, and sliding seats. But the real feature is its transforming abilities. First configuration; RACE. So, I used suspension lift system straight out of Lego’s 8297 Off-roader. When the truck is lowered the ground clearance is just over 1 stud. With suspension travel at minimum, less than 1 stud, and very high gear, it’s perfect for circuit racing. Because the cabin is in front of the front wheels I put the battery box as far back to act as a counter weight. Second configuration; light OFF-ROAD. I say light because it’s only RWD. I wanted to make it AWD, but I don’t have those small steering wheel hubs in LDD, only the big ones (like Porsche uses). And I didn’t like the way it looked with those, plus this way I got better steering angle and ground clearance, so I compromised. Now, the suspension lifting is done manually by yellow gear wheels. (I didn’t want to put a big motor to stick out on top of the chassis to make it motorized). So, when is lifted the ground clearance is 3.5 studs, with the same amount of suspension travel. The cabin is on a swivel, you lift (rotate, swivel…) it back, secure it with light gray pins and the protective front guard pops out (which is hidden underneath the cabin in race mod). So now the truck can handle some steep inclinations. The only thing I’m not sure about is the frame’s structural stability. Will it bend and twist, I don’t know. I’m assuming it might. I feel that I need to mention this one more time; I don’t have real Legos, so I use only LDD. Bottom view Comparison: Thank you for your attention.
  7. Hi everyone, This is my first MOC to be published here on the forum: a small/compact rally hatchback. It is not a copy of an existing car, but the front is inspired by modern Audi's. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Fast drivetrain Lots of torque (the car must be able to drive on tarmac, dirt and sand) An average scale of 1:12.5 Front and rear independent suspension Front and rear PF lights Servo steering with small turning radius Buwizz 2.0 to increase performance (located under the bonnet for better weightdistribution and easy acces) A light and rigid chassis Openable doors and bonnet A realistic/clean interior (no visible moters/wires/chassis beams) A gapless body, using rather pannels than beams Drift (on sand) It contains 100% LEGO parts (excpet BuWizz) with a total of 1178 parts. I am very happy with the result. Here are some pictures The Buwizz with easy acces... Clean interior... Openable glovebox... Rear suspension... Front suspension... The underside shows the chassis, wires and motors... Annd finally a little video to demonstrate the fucntions and the oudoor performance. Building instructions/partslist: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-14441/T-Lego/technic-rc-audi-rally-car-with-buwizz-20/#comments Hope you like it, comments, criticism and questions are welcome!
  8. I wanted to build a small rc version of a Jeep Mighty FC for a long time, and finally managed to do so: My main goal was outdoor performance, so I've used a XL motor geared down 1:2.78 for propulsion. A servo motor was used for steering. With only 12 studs between the insides of the wheel hubs, I had to squeeze in portal axles for the front and rear. Of course we also have suspension: The belly-shot: And the video(sorry for bad resolution): The chassis can be separated from the bodywork and battery in about 10sec. Although it was only possible to build in yellow, I tried to include as much detail as possible and did my best to hide most of the interior. I hope you like it. Feel free to leave your comments and criticism!
  9. I am continuing to explore the fascinating world of the pipe transportation with a new prototype. You may already have seen it on youtube, I’m a bit late to post here (busy week-end). If you have a good memory, I did a first prototype on track (here) that had some limitation; in particular it couldn’t transport more than one pipe at once. The complete album is available on FlickR Prototype 2. For this second iteration, I started again form a white sheet to try something new : The transporter is now on tire with multiple axle steering for a good maneuverability and good translation speed (more adapted to road). I choose to keep two cranes for the consistency with the first proto. First advantage this allows making them smaller, as each crane support almost half of the weight of the pipe they don’t need to be reinforced and a mini actuator is enough to make them move. Second advantage is that the pipe remains horizontal even if not loaded exactly on its center of gravity. What’s inside ? There is 6 functions in this truck (5RC + 1 manual). Propulsion on axle 3 and 4. Steering on axle 1-2 and 5-6. The cranes : 1- 360 degrees Rotation. 2- 90 degrees Lift. 3- Cable. The truck was built from the center to the extremity, both crane are a copy-paste and are actuated by the same motors placed in the middle of the truck. Advantage: the crane move simultaneously and are always in the same position, drawback: you can’t use only one crane if you want to (I don’t know why you would have to use only one crane but well.) This was a choice at the conception because the goal of this prototype was to test the concept. With an alternative built it would have been possible to upgrade the truck so each crane have its set of motor , and the simultaneous movement is manage through the software (because yes, SBrick allows you to control several port with one command) Last functions are the additional lateral support that are deployed manually. They were added lattely in the building process (when I tried to install a larger pipe that clashed with the cranes), so I did not had enough room left in the truck to install the pneumatic line. Not a big issue in my opinion, I will do better next time. Good and not compare to the first prototype: Good Can transport more than one pipe Can load/unload up to two pipe in total autonomy No real length limitation Better road capabilities Not good Still requires a manual intervention to catch the pipe Range of operation : Cranes are not long enough to load the additional support. The dual crane are still not independent. Some improvements are still possible. So, project to be continued. Thank you for reading Edit: One additional word: in the video you can see a support vehicle. It is a not-so-good mini forklift only used to load the truck, It has been possible by the use of a 3rd Sbrick (both vehicle controlled through the same interface) and 4 M motors. Dedicated video here (yes I was terribly boring when I did the miniature ):
  10. The classic 1967 Ford Eleanor GT500 was a fearsome beast in its day, with a 428 cubic inch big block rippling the pavement courtesy of an astounding 355 horsepower. It's also the car made famous as "Eleanor," Steve McQueen's awesome ride in the original 1974 movie Gone In Sixty Seconds. With so much heritage to this classic car, I knew this build had to reflect that hardcore stance and styling everyone grew to love. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- let’s drive by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to the mechanics and design, I began with the classic live axle rear suspension and an inboard suspension style in the front with Ackerman steering and torsion bar. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- Chrome engine block, gold pistons, red chrome wheels - by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I threw my new red chrome rims on the car just for a quick photo with lots of bling :) 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The car also sports front and rear headlights, motorized hood and trunk, 2 XL motors for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 2 Buwizz batteries in the trunk, a chrome V8 engine block with gold pistons, working fan and blower, snap back doors. 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I did try to follow the shape of the car closely, as you can see in the overlay below: 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr After so many new challenges on this car I'm fairly satisfied with the outcome. So sit back, grab a cuppa and check the video! And as always - a huge thanks to my brother @DugaldIC , @KD123 & @technic_addict for their support throughout this build.
  11. Dear Lego Technic engineers, I’ll take this time to present to you my latest and most serious MOC. Challenger MT800E tractor. I got my inspiration from the FS17 game I’m playing, where is one of my favorites. I spent a month developing it, I didn’t rush it, I took my time, and it turned out quite ok (at least I think so). I wanted it to be a Claas Xerion contender. So it’s built in the same scale as Claas. I tried to replicate it as close as possible to the real thing, so I implemented the same features as on the real tractor. Same shape front weights, the position of the mirrors, lights, stairs and hand rails. Big tractor deserves a big exhaust. By the way, not all of them have front hitch, mine does. Front and rear view By the pure looks of it, it set itself apart from other tractors out there (both real and Lego). And it’s controlled by S-brick, because I didn’t want chunky and clunky Lego RC receivers sticking out of the model. Front engine cover functions just like on the real tractor; it gives access to the battery box (engine). The only thing wrong here is that the cover is one stud taller than it should be because I had to make room for the things inside. To get the correct shape and for the colors that were involved, I kind of compromise its structural rigidity in the back section where the hinge is (I hope it won’t fall apart). View of the lifted engine cover Same features in the cabin as on the real one. Joystick, computer, display, dash. Close up of the cabin Now, the rear hydraulic lift system is a bit simpler than the real one. Mine has a few levers less, but it functions in the same way, and it looks the same. It goes up and down and swings from side to side (which is the unique feature on this tractor) together with the drawbar hitch which is standard equipment and PTO. A 3-point ball hitch can be implemented at any time. But don’t get full by it, it’s still very complex mechanism to put in such small space and to make it work. View of the rear hydraulic lift system with different attaches Let’s talk about the chassis and drivetrain a little bit. The XL motor is for drive; it’s geared up to 1.67 to get the approximate speed of 1.2km/h otherwise it would be too slow. The whole thing weighs around 1.3kg (I calculated) so I think it shouldn’t be a problem (although I don’t know will it be enough when you attach something to it; a trailer or an implement of some kind). The power is transferred to the small sprocket which is in between the 2 motorcycle wheels on the bottom so it sits on the track and it always has a weight pushing on them so it’s always in contact with the track. The motorcycle wheels are stationary, they don’t turn, the track glides over them. The original idea was to offset motorcycle wheels by 90 degrees, get power to them, and put 4 stationary small sprockets in between. But when I tried it, the sprockets just wouldn’t align to the track correctly. So I had to compromise and do it this way. The front wheel is attached to the big shock absorber which acts as a track tensioner. The midwheels are oscillated front to back and left to right (just like on the real tractor). For steering I used an L motor (that’s the one on top) and dual differential steering system (thanks to @Tommy Styrvoky). The steering output speed is 9:1 at the differentials. PTO is directly powered by another L motor (the one at the bottom). The M motor on top is for the rear hydraulic lift system. The orange friction cylinders are dumpers so that the hydraulics can’t swing freely side to side by its own. On tracks I put those rubber things for better traction (BTW, they only exist in red color but it looked stupid so I colored them dark gray). Top and bottom view of the chassis And yes, there is a black limited edition. PDF instruction AVAILABLE! DISCLAIMER: This is built in LDD. I don’t have real Legos, so I can NOT be 100% certain that this will work. I’m hoping it will, because I’ve paid attention to, calculated, considered, thought through, almost everything. I made sure that every connection is possible, and that nothing hits anything that it’s not supposed to. This time I used colors that exist in real life, so no more parts and colors errors. The only thing that I’m worried about are the rear drive wheels. Will my solution actually work? It should in theory. Anyway, enjoy it and have fun with it. The other colors are just for the fun of it. UPDATE 1 I managed to secure the white worm gear with little modifications, so that it will stay in place and it won't fall off. And now, it looks like this: UPDATE 2 PDF instructions are finished. Here is the link: Challenger MT800E building instructions UPDATE 3 I submitted this MOC on Lego Ideas . If you like it, please support it. Although it needs some corrections to the drivetrain, if it passes forward, I will make sure to do them. I will iron out every wrinkle there is and correct every mistake. And I will make it compatible with standard Lego receivers The deadline for 100 supporters is July 18th 2018. UPDATE 4 New deadline for 1000 supporters is July 16th 2019. Now I have the time and the drive to fix some things, and slowly but surely make it work properly. Thank you
  12. One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC!
  13. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  14. I' ve made a model of a Snowmobile. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - Driven tracks (L motor) - Steered skids linked to handlebar with Ackermann geometry and positive caster angle (M motor) - Front double wishbone suspension - Realistic rear suspension Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  15. UPDATE: Instructions & parts list are available at Rebrickable. Three years ago I made this forklift as a an alternative of the 42009 set. Ever since then I wanted to make a proper RC version of it. So here it is. Overall it is a better rendition of a generic heavy forklift. It is narrower, shorter and better scaled than its predecessor. You may criticize me for the lack of slopes and curves, but that's my building style - I always prefer sturdiness over beauty. There are 4 motorized classic functions: Movement (L-motor) Steering (servo) Mast extension (L-motor) Mast tilting (S-motor) Manual functions include sliding blades and openable doors. Here is an extremely short video demonstrating the model at work. Sadly, lack of gradual control over the motor's power makes it hard to move smoothly. So, what is your verdict?
  16. Hello to all. I present you my latest build. SCANIA R series Long Line. This model was build for the local exhibition, which was organized by Kocke Klub in Slowenia. It is build in the scale 1:22 Power Functions: 1 XL motor for Drive 1 Servo motor for steering 3 pairs of LED lights. And the video. Thanx for watching. With best regards, Valter
  17. This was supposed to be a Unimog 401 but things turned out a little different. some specs: Drive: XL motor geared 1:1 Steering: servo motor Openable doors etc It also has rear pendular suspension: And of course a belly-shot: I will make a video as soon as possible to prove its off-road performance. I hope you like it!
  18. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video: Hope you will like it!
  19. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video :) Hope you will like it!
  20. This is my very first MOC of a semi-tractor mini chassis. This RC chassis took two months of intense testing and it just 94 pieces (including PF devices) to create the best mini chassis and its mostly a simple design. This chassis will host to many of my future projects and I also created a couple of youtube videos to show off its performance and durability. Version 2.0 chassis includes center differential and suspension. This chassis it includes the following, 1/10 scale Chassis is just 94 pieces with a to create a no gear slip no tire slip thought in my design. very strong frame and durability Its very modular and basic form is 1 frame = 2 halves so both axles will have the same suspension, drive, steering, etc, etc . (I experimented with all types axles and color) (ver 2.0 120 pieces) RC build in mind (it can be used with lego's, sbrick, buwizz and lepin or even a custom rc controller) 67.8 x 34r balloon tires (Balloon tires have the best traction for all types of surfaces like sand,rocks, asphalt and excel on smooth shiny surfaces) 1 lx motor and 1 servo (you can add more motor) 2 way reverse Ackermann Steering (can be upgraded to 4 way) AWD Dual Gear drive train with 1:1.66 output with all time positraction (to reduce gear slippage) Simple suspension (1 l travel and very stiff) (ver 2.0 2 link suspension per axle 3 l travel) Fake disc brakes Fake engine (optional) Center differential (ver 2.0 only) Short wheel base with excellent handling Off road and street car capabilities built into the chassis I have included some pics and videos and will add more. it still a work in progress!! My first video is to show the performance and handling and the second video is a 5 minute off road test to show its durability and to show that I can build a reliable RC chassis. 2.0 version 2.0 version side view Version 1.7 this video is to show performance and handling this 5 min video is to show durability and I can build a kick butt RC chassis !! And yes both videos are the same chassis!! Please add your comments and if you have any question, please feel free to ask about my MOC. This chassis was a really interesting project and discovered a few things about Lego's color of their beams and lift arms. I did a search on this forum about color and weight and none has came up so I guess ill be the first to post this.. I discovered that not all beams and lift arms weigh the same.. Same with pins and axles. I know there are friction and friction less axles and connectors but what I discovered beams and lift arms also weight differently, For example: This dark gray weighs 1.726 grams and Red of the same shape weighs 1.68 grams!!! That is a difference 0.114 grams!! yes that small but with 94 pieces it can add weight , The more I use the red Lego bricks colors, the more lighter the model !!! I have weigh a lot of different parts and color but I don't have all colors and shapes. So far the red color bricks are the lightest in my collections and that means using red bricks will adds more performance !!!! yes you can pat me on my back for this discovery!!
  21. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  22. Hey! Check out my Lego Boeing 737-600! Working: aileron, rudder, elevator, control column RC: flaps, slats, spoilers, landing gear, thrust reverser Length: 110 cm Wingspan: 125 cm Height: 40 cm Weight: 2,8 kg Video here:
  23. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  24. Baja Truck [MOC]

    Once i wanted to make a baja truck, and i failed. though as you should do in life, i stood up and tried again. and suddenly, i had a frame. and a 'little' later i had a baja truck. fuctions: Full suspension: Front; double wishbone (travel: 1.5 studs) Rear: live axle (travel: 5 studs) RTC steering (Servo motor) RWD (XL-motor) Full RC I started making a front suspension which had to be soft and a good height clearance and RTC stearing. After a while i had a very sturdy stearing module, so i started making the rear axle.The XL motor is mounted on the live axle. it has a 1.66:1 which gives it a speed of 243.4 RPM and 8.7 N.cm. of torque. I used the short steering link to make the suspension freëer then used the 3X5 L links to connect to the springs. The battery is pretty high above the center of mass, but it doesn't affect the performance weardly. the IR receiver is possitioned just under the widnshield which makes it pretty easy to reach. The body is made out of 3 pieces, The bumper, a nose scoop and the rest of the body. the body is connected in 14 points to the chassis, the scoop only at 2 and the bumper in 6 places. I might do instructions on the chassis, but i don't know if i will on the body (only if enough demand). Greetz TNLD more pictures:https://flic.kr/s/aHskvfPA6Y LXF file of the chassis: http://www.mediafire.com/file/2w3uet74f11bamk/Baja_Truck.lxf