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Found 385 results

  1. Hi everyone, It's been a long time since I haven't posted on this forum, but today I would like to share a new project that I have started not so long ago. It's a Subaru Impreza WRX STI car that I will make. The list of what I will put in the car is the following : Awd Boxer 4 engine McPherson suspension for the front wheels Indépendant double whisbone for the rear wheels Lockable central differential 5 speed sequential gearbox I searched a bit for 5-speed sequential gearbox but I didn't found any. So I took a 4-speed gearbox design by @Rage_Hobbit (found there) and I added a 5th speed. Here is the result : You can download the .lfx. Note that you are supposed to place rubber band linking the orange pieces to the black one under the blue triangle. I have already made the boxer engine and most of the chassis. It will use these wheels : It's the one that are used in 42077 rally car. However I ran in a problem, it seems that the gearbox can not support the force involved in the transmission. The gears do a lot of skipping noises (doesn't sound healthy for the pieces). So I wanted to know if anyone knew a reliable 5-speed sequential gearbox / a 5+r sequential gearbox. That's it for today. More updates coming soon.
  2. It's official: what we've been doing for the last half of year together with LEGO was turning a real-life Liebherr R 9800 into an RC model. And guess who drove it :D More video content will follow soon! My behind-the-scenes video: And finally, here's a brief behind-the-scenes video from LEGO:
  3. This is my attempt at building a proper and most importantly; fun to drive ripsaw with somewhat realistic performance. The 8 buggy motors and 4 BuWizz seem to do the trick.. I tried to replicate as much as i could from the original design, obviously the drive-train works differently; the real EV1 has 1 motor with a clutch system in the rear differential to power the tracks from the rear alone, which i did try to replicate by adding the fake V8 and rear diff, which does function, but i disconnect it most of the time while drive outside because it has a habit of getting jammed by leaves, rocks and twigs, the gears used to connect to the fake V8 are all exposed. Here the sprockets are powered in the front and rear and each is connected directly to the slower output of 2 buggy motors, giving this thing crazy speed and torque. The suspension is set up like the real EV1 and works fine, but does require a track tension system, the real thing has a suspended front sprocket to keep tension on the tracks, in this case it would mean loosely suspended buggy motors, an idea i did not like and did not try, yet. I am using a simple lever, spring and wheels to keep tension on the track but it works fine and looks ok. For the body i tried to capture the look and feel of the real thing, using as little as possible panels and using beams for the boxy look with just the exposed framework seemed the right thing to do, i am sure it is filled with illegal connections, i go by the rule: "if it fits without force, it fits". The body is surprisingly solid, it can be lifted from several positions and it can take some abuse from driving, and abused it, i have.. The are 2 seat for Technic figures and the electrical wiring functions nicely as a seat-belt for them. I have added 2 sets of LED's on the top bar, i do not think the real EV1 had that, but it seemed the most "natural" position to me and it works nicely since they are aimed down a bit. And here you can see it in action! please leave a like if you can and help out my tiny channel: I hope you like it!
  4. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  5. Hello everyone, my name is NABLACK and this is my first post. This Porsche Tiger tank is from an anime called Girls und Panzer. It's mostly a normal Porsche Tiger but with a function to boost the performance. And to achieve that "boosted performance" in my Lego Porsche Tiger, I stupidly put 12 PF L motors into it. I got a lot of inspiration from Sariel's Tiger XL and Tommy Styrvoky's Tiger (P), and a lot of thanks and respect to them. Maybe there's too much Tiger tanks around there, but since I was planning to achieve a different feature, I think it would be fine to have another. Hope you will enjoy this. Specifiction: Scale: 1/18 Weight: 2.57kg (5.67lbs) Length(without barrel): 37.5cm (14.8in) Width: 19cm (7.5in) Height: 17cm (6.7in) Suspension: Oscillationg Bogies Power Source: Buwizz 2.0 x3 Propulsion: PF L motor x12 Gear Ratio: 1:1.667 Top Speed: 5km/h (3.1Mi/h) Other Electronic Parts: PF M motor x1 for turret rotation; PF M motor x1 for gun tilting; a pair of LED light Parts that's not original Lego: Buwizz 2.0 x3; Stainless steel axle x10; Stickers _DSC9262 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9265 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9283 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9290 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9282 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9297 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9301 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9302 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9449 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9479 by NABLACKS, on Flickr Visit flickr for more photos
  6. Well the teardown of my Koenigsegg Regera is done, instructions are being tested and video is released. Huge thanks to my brother Lachlan Cameron for your amazing teardown photos and killer video edit. Thanks to Justin Wong for being the Guinea pig for the build and your patch notes along the way. Hey all, soo it's been a very long while since I've posted anything. Probably over two years now, however I have been busy in my spare time. For over two years now I've been working on the Koenigsegg Regera. By far my most challenging build to date, especially considering I've been working on Both and HOG and an RC at the same time. The HOG will be Dark Azure/Black centre with White accents and interior. So may I present to you the Regera, it's still a work in progress but everything is pretty well there. It's missing seats, stickers and a few things need adjusting but for the most part it's all there. This car will be on display at the Bricks in the Six Lego convention this weekend so I thought I'd share some early pictures before ones get taken and shared from the show. As always there will be a Video and instructions to follow. But first I need to get the HOG model finished as well. Either way here's some pictures a list of functions. The drivetrain is simple, on the RC it's just drive and steer, no gearbox as the real car is direct drive. 4 L motors for drive and one servo for steering, with a fake V8 in the back, the suspension is where it starts to get interesting, the rear is triplex suspension, unequal length control arms, with integrated sway bar like the real thing, the front is also unequal length suspension, cantalievered with torsion bar and sway bar, the front also raises and lowers a stud and when raising up flaps under the front valance deploy and tuck back up when the car lowers back down. The interior the seats slide and recline, the steering moves up and down in the centre console there's a lever which is a brand new concept which allows you to switch between opening, the left door, the right door, or both doors at the same time. Now when you're opening those doors which are Synchro dihedral the mirrors will fold in as the doors open out and upwards just like the real car. The front and rear clam shells will open as well and there's a lever in the back which will allow you to open the front, the back or both at the same time. On the rear clamshell is the rear wing which is on a cam that raises upward and outward and raises out of the back. The roof is removable like the real car, and can store underneath the front clamshell while still leaving enough room for a tote bag. There's also a manual and an RC model the manual model has two gears the dash the first is to open the doors, and the other to steer. The RC model has drive and steering that's hooked up to the fake V8, the doors and the clam shells are also motorized being able to switch between the front and rear or both at the same time. It also has LED lights front and rear. So overall this is a very in-depth detailed and accurate model in sense of functions.
  7. johnnym

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    Hi there, I'd like to present a MOC I've been working on from time to time since a few months: It's a small RC buggy, something I'm missing from Lego. Pictures show the V2 model. An interactive 360° view of the V1 model (with different rear axle) is available here: Steering: PF Servo motor Propulsion: PF L motor (geared up 28z => 20z => 12z which is good enough to drive on office carpet and short distances on thicker carpets with fresh batteries, it works great on smooth surfaces; 36z => 12z => 12z also works, but requires more power and works best on a smooth surface; RWD) I initially used it with a AAA battery box and V2 IR receiver (not shown in the V2 pictures above, where it will be fixed to the rear spoiler, the V1 model had it at a slightly different location), but the AA battery box also fits - though it looks not as good due to different mount points, and it will also be heavier then. I assume it will also work with the LiPo box and SBrick and I can - since a few weeks - confirm that it also works with a BuWizz, but then it's more something for outdoor areas, as it gets pretty quick in fast and ludicrous modes. I created the main chassis of the V1 model of this buggy during a long evening/night and added most of the body parts the following day or days, don't remember exactly. The stickers are from the 8048 set and IMO fit the buggy theme great. Steering is also from 8048. It's fun to drive around and it can also take some hits. I took inspiration (mainly for the rear shock mounting and general setup) and motivation (I wanted to have something about as small as this) mainly from this video on YT: ...and some other videos about small RC buggies. The creator's buggy itself is also roughly based on the MOC (video and instructions for V1 model) of someone else. Instead of (re)building this one, I created my own - also because I didn't have a Buggy motor at that time. I also created a V3 model. It's slightly bigger, has front lights (using PF LEDs) and uses bigger wheels but shows some deficiencies of the design: The rear axle tends to tear itself apart in this model on rough surfaces, making the gears slip. I assume this is due to the bigger wheels used in the V3 model. I use some additional axles with stop and bushes now to hold the rear axle together for a longer time. I assume this maybe could be fixed by using a frame around the two axle holes that shouldn't move apart. When doing tight turns the V3 also lifts one of the front wheels - the one on the same side as the gear that sits on the drive axle. If someone has a good explanation for this, I'd be grateful. I suspect the softer shocks compared to V2.
  8. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  9. Good people of Eurobricks, let me give you my first take on the planetary hubs: Please excuse me for the lenght of the video, it's meant to show the developement stage by stage. I had big expectations towards the new hubs, since they've been announced. I realised, these hubs will solve the problem of the stress on drivetrains, yet will raise a new challenge. Due to the increased torque on the wheels, the frame (chassis) and the bracing of the suspension will be the new weak link. A wanted to have a finalized rig to the date of the release of the hubs. The backbone of the design came from a five years old chassis concept, it was a non motorized chassis: To mimic the geometry of the new hub, I've used the old ones with some extension, so it can be easily swapped, when time comes: The concept of the chassis came together quite well, thanks to using techniques well practiced in my early years. But there was still a long time till the release of the new hubs. Driven by curiosity, I've planted two PF XL motors in the middle of the chassis, making them drive two axles each. One for the front axles, one for the rear ones. No additional gearing has been added, the motors were connected straight to the differentials. Of course it had to be tested, hat's the part around one minute into the video: Came with a surprisingly satisfying result, despite the usage of the old cv's and hubs, yet it was understandably far from being a "crawler" it meant to be. Also at this point I was short of claas tyres, so I've used some similar size rc tyres on the front 4. Got the tyres eventually, still a lot of time till the hubs coming though. As the final design was gonna use 4 buggy motors, time came to make the change: Same principals, like with the XL motors: No gearing added (slow output used), 2 motors drive the front, other 2 for the rear axles. Now feeding that much buggy motors would require 4 buwizzes. Or one well sized rc lipo that can comfortably supply 2 sbricks. 4 buwizzes cost about 400-450 pounds, while the lipo comes for 30 pounds. Any question? At this stage (still no new hubs) it was an obvious, yet pretty crazy idea to hit the tarmac. So I did. That's what you see at 2:16 in the video: I had a lot of trouble that day with the bluetooth connection, brought a head on crash int o a container. It was heart-, but no plastic breaking. Finally the hubs came by the post and the picture got full. I've also planted another servo for steering (2 in total now) Indoor durability test at 3:27 Climbing test (60 degrees) at 4:18 Hereby I apologize for the dark enviroment at this recording Peek on the suspension at 3:12 Lego should not be used outdoors... ahm, okay... Outdoor test from 4:55 in the video. I came to the verdict, that the new hubs worth their money. In a usage that abusive, you see in the video the hub-cv connection definitelly require some lubrication. I've been using silicone oil and no downside appeared so far. Here is the difference it makes: That's it so far, a little spoiler at the end of the video. Hope it's gonna catch some expert eyes...
  10. Welp, back onto 1/15 scale Made this little thingy in about 12 hours after Madoca's small supercar popped up in my YT recommended. BRICKSHELF (whenever uploaded) As with my Mini Nitro Menace, this year's Corvette wheelbase was taken as a base - should be compatible with the transporter truck - and so the build began. Of course, drive&steering has been done a million times already so this needed a cherry on top - the roof was what I was looking for. Making a chassis was dead easy with the slim wheels and by motorising each rear wheel independently, the need for a differential was eliminated. Thanks to the placement of the BuWizz in between the rear wheels, steering and roof motors could now populate the central tunnel and be hidden under the black 3x11 curved panels giving the interior a "cleaner" look. Now, bodywork ain't my strongest point, but I wanted it to be ferrari RED. This meant working with a very small inventory (for me) most of which you can see on the car Of course ricer butterfly doors were made to make it look cooler than it is. Have a nice weekend, Cya)
  11. Good Day. Got inspired to build this after an in-game motorcycle from Honkai impact 3rd Original idea was to use 2x XL motors, but it was boring af. Next obvious step were buggy motors - allowing an approximate speed of 10km/h. It could probably pick up a higher speed with BuWizz 2.0's Ludicrous mode, but fast mode of BW v1.0 is enough to topple the bike over when taking high-speed turns. Unfortunately it does require "training wheels" to ride straight, as it would lean on one side without those after taking a curve without those. The bike does feature rear axle suspension, and small wheels have shocks as well. "01" stickers reused from MPATEV, "police" from 42047. Design-wise it belong to the same "universe" as my spaceship and racers - an Axos Police bike used to patrol within city high-speed tunnels and surface operations. Video&photos, C&C very welcome and appreciated))) Cya later!
  12. keymaker

    [MOC] KrAZ-255

    Hi, I would like to present you my last creation - russian truck KrAZ-255. I was inspired by the model which is available in PC game: Spintires. The truck is built in scale 1:23. I tried to implement some key features of real truck, like suspension, drive train, details like engine and easy aplicable additions, which are present in the game. Enjoy :) Some details: - weight: 995g - dimensions LxWxH: 49x15x18 studs (without mirrors and additions) - live axle suspension - separate drive shaft for each axle - 6x6 drive, no diffs (L motor) - steering (M motor) - front and rear lights - working fake V8 engine - openable hood and doors - additions! There are some additions too! All of them are easy to connect or disconnect to swap to another. The first is simple crate: The second addition is prepared to wood transportation: The last one is the most advanced one - the crane. It is also partially remotely controlled. Functions: - rising/lowering two sections of the arm - crane rotation - gripper rotation - gripper closing/opening - extendable and lockable outriggers - openable maintenance section More photos: Video: I hope you like it :)
  13. Hello! Not so long ago, I became interested Lego technic and decided to assemble my own excavator based on 8043. I began to design a chassis on Lego Disigner. And now I present to your attention a new chassis. I made it completely independent on radio control with two M motors that can be changed to L motors, and a two-speed transmission, for better cross-country ability, which is switched manually. The gear ratio is 1 : 1 and 1.5 : 1. The chassis has become 3 cm longer - it is 20 studs and 20 cm, faster and more passable than 8043. I want to know your opinions, ideas and suggestions for improvement.
  14. This is my very first MOC of a semi-tractor mini chassis. This RC chassis took two months of intense testing and it just 94 pieces (including PF devices) to create the best mini chassis and its mostly a simple design. This chassis will host to many of my future projects and I also created a couple of youtube videos to show off its performance and durability. Version 2.0 chassis includes center differential and suspension. This chassis it includes the following, 1/10 scale Chassis is just 94 pieces with a to create a no gear slip no tire slip thought in my design. very strong frame and durability Its very modular and basic form is 1 frame = 2 halves so both axles will have the same suspension, drive, steering, etc, etc . (I experimented with all types axles and color) (ver 2.0 120 pieces) RC build in mind (it can be used with lego's, sbrick, buwizz and lepin or even a custom rc controller) 67.8 x 34r balloon tires (Balloon tires have the best traction for all types of surfaces like sand,rocks, asphalt and excel on smooth shiny surfaces) 1 lx motor and 1 servo (you can add more motor) 2 way reverse Ackermann Steering (can be upgraded to 4 way) AWD Dual Gear drive train with 1:1.66 output with all time positraction (to reduce gear slippage) Simple suspension (1 l travel and very stiff) (ver 2.0 2 link suspension per axle 3 l travel) Fake disc brakes Fake engine (optional) Center differential (ver 2.0 only) Short wheel base with excellent handling Off road and street car capabilities built into the chassis I have included some pics and videos and will add more. it still a work in progress!! My first video is to show the performance and handling and the second video is a 5 minute off road test to show its durability and to show that I can build a reliable RC chassis. 2.0 version 2.0 version side view Version 1.7 this video is to show performance and handling this 5 min video is to show durability and I can build a kick butt RC chassis !! And yes both videos are the same chassis!! Please add your comments and if you have any question, please feel free to ask about my MOC. This chassis was a really interesting project and discovered a few things about Lego's color of their beams and lift arms. I did a search on this forum about color and weight and none has came up so I guess ill be the first to post this.. I discovered that not all beams and lift arms weigh the same.. Same with pins and axles. I know there are friction and friction less axles and connectors but what I discovered beams and lift arms also weight differently, For example: This dark gray weighs 1.726 grams and Red of the same shape weighs 1.68 grams!!! That is a difference 0.114 grams!! yes that small but with 94 pieces it can add weight , The more I use the red Lego bricks colors, the more lighter the model !!! I have weigh a lot of different parts and color but I don't have all colors and shapes. So far the red color bricks are the lightest in my collections and that means using red bricks will adds more performance !!!! yes you can pat me on my back for this discovery!!
  15. Hogwartus

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  16. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  17. I have done this MOC more than a year ago, but as for the Ford Mustang Hoonicorn, I can't make the video until the bug of the BuWizz (with the Fast and Ludicrous modes) is corrected. So I show you the pictures of the MOC for the moment. ^^ I have started to build this creation when I have received 2 RC motors. The purpose was to see what I could make using 2 RC motors and a BuWizz. So this thing is an airplane... until the bug stops the BuWizz. With the 2 RC motors connected to big wheels by the high output, this is very fast. How I had the idea to make this model? I wanted to make a cartoon / videogame style MOC, so I chose the most famous vehicle of Mario Kart videogame. The 2 RC motors are at the rear, the BuWizz is between them. At the front, there is the servomotor which activates the steering with an Ackermann effect, and there is a return to the steering wheel. The body work is easily detacheable. You have just to remove some pins, or simply to detach the blocs from the chassis. Video coming in a moment I think...
  18. Changes: Picture 1: Side view Picture 2: Lowered suspension Picture 3: View from above Picture 4: Front view Picture 5: Filled all gaps at the rear of the car Picture 6: Made the „hood“ completely flat Picture 7: Made the headlights less bulky and filled the gaps on their sides Picture 8: IR receiver Picture 9: Filled the gaps above and on the side of the taillights Picture 10: Added fake brakes at the rear Picture 11: Got rid of the front suspension to make the car lower Picture 12: Filled the gaps in front of the rear tires Picture 13: Roof and „hood“ taken away Picture 14: Front without the "hood" Picture 15: Interior from above Picture 16: Battery box, IR receiver, cables Picture 17: A look at it from the underside Picture 18: Servo motor Picture 19: Large motor Picture 20: Large motor Picture 21: Improved interior on the right side Picture 22: Improved interior on the drivers side with a shift indicator just like in the real car Picture 23: New steering wheel and dashboard Picture 24: New dashboard on the right side Picture 25: Improved seat Picture 26: Remote control Picture 27: With the original steering wheel Picture 28: Taillights in action Picture 29: Headlights in action
  19. After a long and difficult builing proces, the project is finally done. The project started in early may, when I created a WIP topic here on EB. In the end, I set the bar a little bit too high as I was not able to get all the desired features inside. Audi S3 quattro Specs: - Dimensions: 44x19x14 studs (L x W x H) - Weight: 1300g - Estimated part count: 1800 parts - 4 PF motors Features: - Opnable doors and bonnet - Ajustable seats (2x HOGs) - All wheel/quattro drive with three differentials (2x PF L motors) - Steering (PF Servo Motor) - 4 Speed sequential gearbox (PF servo motor) - BuWizz 2.0 Power - Complete detailed interior with no mechanics/electrics visible I tried to use as many panels as possible which is IMO essential to get the best looking bodywork. This model consists of 45 technic panels. The stepper mechanism (located underneath the roofspoiler) used for the gear shifting is increadibly simple and works very well. The chassis is very stiff. the car can easily be lifted from the roof without damaging anything. To open the bonnet, you need to tilt and pull it at the same time. The LBG pin/axle connector slides trough the 5L axle with stop when you pull the bonnet. This system was necessary, beceause othewise the bonnet would have interference with the dashboard. Like in most of my other builds, I pay a lot of attention to the interior. I never want mechanisms visible or motors inside. You will find many details in the interior, like a handbrake, steering wheel, gear lever and door handles. When you pull the red part in the center up, the buwizz turns on/off. Too bad that the center dail which is placed upside down though. The seats can be ajsuted forwards and backwards by rotating the tan 20th gear. It is a very simple setup consting of a few gears, a worm screw and a 1x7 technic gearrack on which the seats are mounted. The building proces may be very interesting to read (if you have not seen it yet). Many interisting ideas and suggestions were posted that are not shown in this model. For instance, it should originally feature (air)suspension, but due to the airleaks and absence of differentials, it couldn't take corners propelry enough. Thanks to everyone who helped me with this build! You can check it out here: I wanted to make a video of it today, but my buwizz onstantly cut off power so give me a few more days... I won't make instructions, beceause I am busy working on intructions of another model which I will show this year as well. I hope you like it. Comments, feedback and constructive critisism are as always highly appreciated!
  20. Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels:{"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated!
  21. Having finally set free the buggy motors from TC16, it was time for something speedy again. Having seen the new 2019 transporter, that scale got me again, so making a car "compatible" with that set was very interesting. And having 8649 box on display made it clear which one I wanted 2 make. After a day of non-stop building this abomination somewhat resembling the original was born: The build was based off this year's Corvette wheelbase - 20x15 studs. 8649 has oversized wheels, giving it a cartoony apperance, but that wouldn't work for this one as space in the rear was required for a double buggy motor setup. Low profile tires in combination with old rims were a perfect tuner combo and gave resemblance to the 68.8 six spoke wheels. This also allowed to place the rear wheels much closer to the buggy motors using a non-standard 36z - 16z gears combo (1:2.25) with half-stud on-axis offset [see picture below] powered through the slower, outermost motor output to an approximate 2000rpm to the rear wheels. This gear combination resulted quite reliable when braced properly and withstanded all crashes, slides and racing that was thrown at it. In contrast, the front axle is a real mess. Having to place the m-motor right after the BuWizz made it really weak, and the flex axles make it hinge forwards. It does stay in place though due to all the bracing, so good enough? Also low-pros are amazing for drifting, which makes this vehicle very enjoyable to play with . Bodywork-wise it is NOT a "modern beauty" but carries the approximate lines of the original model. All the interior details are present - double NOS bottles in the rear, Red bucket seats and a tuner steering wheel (RHD version for some JDM powah ). Supercharger was a no for me - it looked terrible on the original. Big a$$ exhausts were kept to annoy the neighbours In the end it is not fully compatible as it probably wouldn't be able to drive up the ramps, but does drive cool. Welp, here's the video and LDD file Best Regards, Dan. Cya later!!!
  22. MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 LDD file DOWNLOAD The attachments and other photos: WIP TOPIC MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 Hello there! haven't been on the forum for some time and seeing such a contest pop up was a truly delight. Of course first ideas were of the movies "Martian", "Avatar", and "Interstellar", and the idea of building a spaceship seemed exiting. Therefore, i made a sketch of a VTOL transport ship: However building a freighter or a spacestation didn't exite me so much afterall (absolutely nothing to do with my unfinished tc15 plane ) so the next obvious idea was a rover. A human-manned one of course. Seeing that the currents WIPs were using wheels, I had a quick browse through lego sets of space/sci-fi themes and quickly found the Exo-Force 8118. It had a combination of double tracks in front and a single wheel in back that got me interested, as it was unusual and cool-looking, so this sketch came to life: It was originally planned to use brick-built tracks on front but small track links with turntables for central wheels should work. Most probably double offroad motorcycle tyres on rear (better start saving up for PP wheels duh). Obviously doubly buggy motors with 1.667:1 reduction + nuclear reactor BuWizz to power this thing. Current progress:
  23. Good Day everyone! After completing MPATEV-01 (video&LDD file coming soon) and not able to progress on Saber, decided to build something from my bucket list. And there was 8258 B. After a somewhat boring build process the final result was not very satisfying, so my first idea was to motorise it. However keeping the model as it is would be extremely boring, so the whole chassis and rear part were dismantled, leaving only the front, bonnet and hoods . Next a 4X4 (AWD probably but you've been clickbaited mwahahah ) with open diffs was made. No reduction from the XL motor but the one in-between driveshaft and diffs. On front there are two gray (old gray - undetermined type) springs and on the rear a leaf axle out of 9l links (idea by ZBLJ). Of course that horrendously enormous fake motor was kicked out and substituted with a cute mini V8. Interior is as crude as the original but now with even less foot space and a switch under the dashboard. Steering through M motor and hockey spring combo, M motor-powered winch controlled with the LBG connector on dashboard. For power I opted for a "classic" PF receiver and custom wired 9V battery neatly fixed with a net in the bed. Overall not the best performance but it's quick yet (relatively) powerful. Front winch is detacheable to improve climbing angle (approximately 50 degrees maximum). I haven't named it a MOD because most of it was made from zero, and the N2 is because this is a successor to one of my early RC MOCs - pickup N1 (my imitation of 9398 as I couldn't afford one and still can't) LDD file DOWNLOAD Video: (sorry it's 30° outside, batteries died and I ain't frying myself 2 times for some offroading outside ) Have a nice weekend, Cya later!
  24. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  25. One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC!