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Found 477 results

  1. So I was working on a simple rc program on my computer today with my new 51515 set and was trying to make it rc using the keyboard (up arrow=forward down arrow=reverse left arrow=left right arrow=right) But it is hard because there is no "when no key pressed" block to my knowledge. The robot I am using is THIS. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. A new rebuild oft the drift chassis byà Blancafort/rc-awd-mazda-rx7-drift/#details i changed the gearing: front: 16/28 open diff rear: 20/28 locked diff working steering wheel fake V10 engine lockable center diff here some pics:
  3. Hello everyone! I know, that Christmas has passed, but i think it is not the reason to wait for the next one to show my new car. It is build on the same Chassis as my Jeep Wrangler [trial mod] Features: 4 wheel drive with locked differentials live axles suspension with 9.5 L shocks 4-wheel steering 120 mm RC tires with high grip 4x PF L-motors for propulsion PU L-motor for steering Buwizz 3.0 for power light tubular bodywork 1.15 kg of total mass (wheels are heavy!) 7 studs of ground clearance I would like to note, that this car is not a proper rock crawler due to the limited suspension travel. All this modifications took about 2-hours of build, but the car give a lot of satisfaction driving in the snow. It is capable for driving in the deep snow and climbing steep icy hills! I conclude, that this project is 100% successful! Hope you like it!
  4. Hi to everybody! It's been a while since I posted something now here we are. Little prefaction, in the last year both time and motivations are dropped down, this Moc was almost ready in may 2017 and it took me a bit to find the desire to do pics video and instructions.....the instructions are not ready yet, but they are at a good point. IMG_2348 by Lucio Switch, su Flickr Now about the Moc, this is a sort of a Dakar Truck, it's a lot simpler compared to my usual Mocs, the idea behind it was to use the Claas Tires, trapezoidal panels...and don't use the parts of my Crane Truck, furthermore, to make it light (or try to do so), I added less details then usual. So it's son of a lot of (personal) compromises. It is driven by 4Xl Motors, 2 for the front axle and 2 for the rear and it's steered by a servo motor. 2 M motors are used to run the pump and to actuate a pneumatic valve. It's powered by 2 Li-Po battery and controlled by 2 SBricks. 6 pairs of Led are used for the lights. One small pneumatic pump, a pneumatic valve and 2 small pneumatic cylinders make up the pneumatic system. The truck has live axles with Anti Roll-bar, the differentials are lockable pneumatically. It has openale door, tiltable cab (with some interior details), and a door in the back to acces the battery. That's all, I hope you like it!
  5. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  6. I have finally found the time to finish this MOC of a Morooka tracked dumper. It is loosely based on the Morooka MST 2200VD. The model is controlled using an S-brick and powered by the regular lego technic power functions battery box. Each track is driven by an PF L motor with a 1:1 ratio, giving the model plenty of speed and enough torque to drive over obstacles etc. Dumping is also motorized using a PF L motor driving a linear actuator. The battery box is hidden under the openable hood, and can be easily accessed and removed (although a lot easier if the dumpbed is up :)) Other functions include an openable door and a lock for the gate on the dumpbed, that opens if you dump. I tried to make a video but you guys will have to wait a bit longer because my baby is making a lot of noise in the background so I have to make a new one sometime when he is asleep :) Edit: made a new video - the period in the beginning when nothing happens is when the buwizz in the tractor fails to connect Some more pictures: Let me know what you think!
  7. Let´s start with brand new model for the LEGO Technic Challenge. A 29 cm tall figure of American astronaut with moving wrists, elbows and shoulders. The helmet is equipped with two PF lights and both arms are operated by PF M motors. The model is remote controlled and powered by rechargeable LEGO battery.
  8. Hello everyone! Lately, I made several posts of my finished models, some of which was build many year ago, so i cant make more photos of them and add your suggestions to the build. Today i would like to share with you my recent project. Im building (developing) an RC Buggy in big scale. Im not trying to make a version of a real one, but the general principles i follow are the same with real buggies. General principles: - independent suspension with a big travel - Rear wheel drive - big positive caster on from wheels - 2x Buggy motors for power (1 per each wheel) - lack of the body - only the structural elements... - double steering arms (for stability and stiffness) I have begun this project a month ago, but then got interrupted with some 4x4 cars (i will make posts on them later). The first prototype This car is actually closer to trophy trucks than to buggies, but nether mind... Features: - Rear drive with live axle. Long travel, soft suspension. - Dual driveshaft: Buggy motors are connected to the rear wheel independently. - McPherson front suspension, positive caster, extra steering arm for stiffness (like in 42099) - anti-row bar at the front The main goal of the first prototype was to test the McPherson setup and the gear-ratio (find a good balance between speed and torque). I made a several tests, and was very pleased with them (see videos below) but many observations has been made for the future development. Main benefit of the McPherson setup is it`s compactness, since there is only one wishbone. But it also became the problem for the car, since additional wishbone gives more ridged structure. Also all axes in transmission has a lot of plastic dust in them - Buggy motors have made their job too well! Summing up, Im very pleased with the first prototype, but the general scheme should be changed! So the development continues... Im waiting for your comments and suggestions... It is not that easy to build a thing from lego that can drive "properly". THIS SECTION WILL BE CONTINUED! ;-)
  9. Full RC Conversion of 10269 Harley Davidson Fatboy After many hours of trial and error, broken bits and gray hair I have finally a working Remote Controlled Harley. And it actually works wery well and are not more fragile than the orginal set. My goal was to create a slower motorbike that you can play with in your living room, so self balancing was not an option as this requires high speed to work. My bike runs on "training wheels" all the time that leans at the same time as the handlebar stears. Have tried my best to hide the electronics an keep it as close looking as possible to the orginal set. Motorized wtih Buwizz/CaDa battery to save space and Power Functions motors. Youtube Video Instructions available at Rebrickable
  10. Hi, It lasted a bit, but I managed to finish this project and here I am. I would like to share with you my latest MOC - Armored Trophy Truck. It was designed mostly to test new Buwizz 3.0 unit and Buwizz motors. I also wanted to increase my own experience in building fast MOCs this time. As there are many trophy trucks out there created by many great builders I tried to take some different approach. So to protect cabin and motors, I put armor on my creation :) Thanks to panels both motors and cabin are protected from dirt, dust and stones. I also added roll cage to protect the driver. More details and presentation how fast this truck is you can check on the video below. Instructions are free of charge, I hope many of you will be able to build it and have fun playing with it outdoors as I did. Link: Details and main functions: • dimensions LxWxH: 36x16x14.5 cm • weight: 1.22 kg • RWD drive (2xBuwizz motors) • steering (C+ L motor) with positive caster • double wishbone suspension at front • live axle suspension at rear • additional suppressors in rear suspension to protect frame during high jumps • high ground clearance • front, rear and whole truck chassis are protected against dirt, dust and stones • roll cage • rear wheels are connected via portal hubs - gear ratio can be adjusted More photos:
  11. Hello everyone! Im glad to introduce a new RC MOC that I build! It is not a 100 replica of Jeep Wrangler, but I was inspired by it while building the bodywork. The instruction could be found here: Features: - Universal chassis - Live axle 4-link suspension - 4 wheel drive - 4x PF L-motors for propulsion (2 for each axle) - PF Servo motor (or PU L-motor) for steering - Ackerman steering geometry (not that essential for off-roader ) - Buwizz 2.0 (Buwizz 3.0) for power - 1.5 kg of total mass, well-balanced - admit a trial mod with planetary hubs and 4-wheel steering! - >90% of parts are taken from 42110 set (except motors, new joints and few more pieces...) I have to mention, that the front of the car was taken from gyenesvi`s MOC. But I made it 2 studs wider and use my own mounting system to connect it to the custom chassis. Here is the chassis of my car After taking the previous photo, I made a new body for it! Here is an official video! Hope you like it!
  12. Hey Guys, I'm back with my second alternate model of the Zetros set (42129). As you might remember from the presentation of my Unimog alternate, I was originally entertaining the thought of rebuilding the Zetros into a Jeep, but I passed since Tim has already built one. However, as I kept thinking of how I would do it, it became clear that I had quite different ideas in mind, and it was just too tempting to do it, so I gave it a go. Here I will write down the design process as that seemed to be something interesting for you guys in case of the Unimog as well, and I also prefer such presentations. Features - 3-link floating axle suspension with Panhard rod at the front - simplified rear floating axle suspension with 2 links of limited degrees of freedom and a Panhard rod - 2-speed gearbox with coupled RWD/AWD selector (hi gear is RWD, lo gear is AWD) - smooth and highly colour consistent bodywork - openable doors, bonnet and trunk - detachable hardtop - detailed interior with green accents, built seats - detailed engine, snorkel, minor extras (roof rack, jerry can, fire extinguishers) Here's a real 2-door model in dark grey color which I used as a visual reference: I also used a blue print to roughly set the proportions in a 1:10 scale. Bodywork Interestingly, this model started out from the bodywork, which I don't do often. As a fan of Jeeps, I have long been wondering what the best ways are for replicating its characteristic details, such as the hood and the grill with Lego parts. My Willys Jeep (alternate of the Defender) uses system parts for the (flat) hood and a simple vertical grill, but I wanted to build one with technic panels as well, replicating the slanted surfaces. I have seen two major techniques, one with the long wing-shaped panels (such as the models of @Madoca 1977 and @rm8), and the other with the long curved panel, mainly the classic model of @Sheepo. Since this set has those curved panels in DBG, and the wheels are about the same size as on Sheepo's model, I was wondering if a similar front could be built from the set, especially the angled placement of the curved part, along with the downward slanting of the whole hood, which also needed to be openable. It turned out that with quite a few alterations here and there, the hood could be built, and even better, they could be built using a few large panels only, which makes it look more clean and uniform.. Some arches needed to be redesigned, and the whole became 2 studs narrower, but the proportions worked fine. Then I moved on to the front and the grill, where much more redesign was needed due to different parts available, but after a few iterations with increasing the width and height of the vertical 'bars', I found the one that fit nicely with the smaller lights in the set and the newer curved small panel extenders (and as far as I can tell, newer Jeeps has such bigger grill, so it seemed fine). From there, I moved on to the sides. I knew it was critical to use the BDG panels carefully, because otherwise there would not be enough DBG beams to build the whole body, and I wanted a clean and colour consistent body. I quickly concluded that the doors can easily be built with the large panels, and the windows can also be built with the DBG connectors. The next critical point was to use the thinner long DBG panels in the rear part above the fenders. The difficulty was that they only left one possibility to mount the pieces of the fenders, so I had to use all those black angled beams there, and I had to build the fenders a bit wider so that I can actually connect the two ends to make it a stable piece. Fortunately, the wider fenders also made it possible to build the front ones from black beams at the same angle, even without more available angled beams using triangulation. The last critical piece was to use the small BDG panels in front of the doors, which just fit there tight. If I had to build that section from beams (as I started out), it would have cost too many beams and connecting them to the chassis would have been difficult as well, but the panel solved both problems (unfortunately, it has a drawback as well, which I will cover later). The remaining DBG panels were used in the back, also allowing for an opening trunk. The last tricky part was the rear corners with the lights. I wanted to make them more rounded with the curved panel extenders, but they would have screwed up the proportions, so I just used a slightly curved system brick to give it some curvature. Also I managed to use the black arched beams to replicate the characteristic rear roll bars, and the black tubular parts to build the roll cage, along with the 15L flip-flop beams, which proved to be critical for mounting the roof. The many flat black panels of the set were enough to build the whole roof, along with the side windows in a way that the whole hardtop is detachable from the roll cage as a single piece. Later, when it was more clear what parts remain, I also added the two bumpers, and even a nice snorkel and minimalistic roof racks were doable to give it more interesting details. Gearbox After being satisfied with the rough bodywork, I started designing the functional parts, which I also wanted to put emphasis on, since that's what technic is all about. However, since my Unimog alternate was about the suspension, this time I wanted to focus more on the RC gearbox and build a less articulated suspension which takes less space. I have been tinkering with the idea of a coupled 2-speed gearbox and a central diff-lock for a while (and @Pattspatt also teased me about it), but I never managed to design a compact one, where the drive motors are also placed conveniently. When I looked up a Jeep Wrangler drivetrain, I found this image, which was particularly interesting for me because of the front wheel drive that can be decoupled. Being offset to the side, I thought this could actually be nicely reproduced with lego clutch gears (something similar I already did with my Willys Jeep alternate, not knowing that it's done similarly in real life). After a lot of juggling with the placement of the motors and the gearbox components, I came up with this quite compact drivetrain setup with the gearbox inside the 11x7 frames, which not only includes the drive motors, but the steering motor too (later on that as well). The key ideas regarding the overall chassis structure are the following. First, I use a simplified (limited degrees of freedom) rear suspension, which requires only one CV joint, which makes the rear part of the drivetrain shorter, making more space for the gearbox, which is placed a bit to the back. Second, I placed the motors to the front of the middle section, and use the back of the motors as the mounting point for the front lower suspension links. Thus, the motors play a major structural role in the chassis. Here is the central part: And here is the whole drivetrain without the motors and the frames: As you can see, the rear part is short, and the front is offset to the side, and can just be routed between the drive motors, under the steering motor. Another interesting thing about it, is that it actually has two shafts (yellow axles at the front) coming from the two drive motors (but they are coupled by the red gear in the middle), and one of the shafts powers the 2-speed gearbox, that then goes to the rear axle, and the other shaft powers the the front axle, so the front axle drive does not pass through the gearbox, as it's only active in low gear. The orange selector switches both the gearbox and the RWD/AWD switch at the same time, activating the front of the drive train when low gear is selected. As with my Unimog, the placement of the gearbox motor was again difficult, as a lot of additional elements (end stoppers, clutch gear protection, down-gearing) need to be placed, so the gearbox motor had to be routed out to the trunk. Suspension As I outlined above, the rear suspension is a somewhat simplified live axle. I saw this trick first in @nico71's Ford F150 alternate, but builds of @rm8 use it as well. It is like a ball-joint based suspension, but without the ball-joint as support that prevents the axle from rotating forward/backward. In case of non-motorized models or smaller RC ones with less powerful motors, the joint itself is enough to keep the axle from rotating, but it was not enough in this case (the coupled motors could just rip apart the driveshaft), so I had to fix it explicitly. I opted for a suspension link that does not let the axle rotate forward on the far end, only tilt sideways (not using towball pins, just regular axles). This setup provides strong enough support to prevent the torque from ripping the driveshaft apart. A Panhard rod further stabilizes the axle to prevent sideways movement. Unfortunately, it's still not as solid as a ball-joint would be, and does not relieve all friction from the driveshaft. On the front, I used a similar 3-link suspension as the Unimog, but I had to move the Panhard rod behind the axle as the space was even less in the front, and managed to move the springs further in, giving it a softer and longer travel. It actually came out too articulated and had to be limited, as the wheels hit the fenders. Also, I used a better steering geometry than the Unimog (no anti-Ackermann geometry), and the max steering angle became very good, too good actually, as the wheels hit the bodywork at max angle, and can get stuck in it, so I limited the angle a bit, but is still better than the Zetros (the limiters are just half pins, which can be taken out to get a lot of steering angle, at the cost of risking the front wheel getting stuck in the body at max angle and max articulation, but work pretty good on flat surface). So the suspension is not bad actually, limited a bit by the bodywork, but the model still drives around quite okay on real terrain. Also, I wanted to experiment with a different steering setup, not placing the steering motor onto the axle. As said above, I found it a nice place between the drive motors, and using the CV joints there was just enough space to route it to the axle. It works okay, however, the two joints already introduce some lag in the steering, which is most noticeable when trying to automatically return to center, it does not center totally. But it's still okay and can be controlled with fine adjustments. Interior As the seats in the Zetros set were too small for this scale I needed to build bigger ones. Since I did not want to use the green beams on the outside, I used them as accents on the inside, they were enough to build seats and to be used in the middle console. I entertained the idea of making the steering wheel functional, since the steering motor is not on the axle, but there was not enough space to route it to the steering wheel, and furthermore, the curved panels used as a dashboard just block the way, and otherwise they are important structural elements that hold the front and the sides, so I did not want to alter them. The battery is placed between the B columns, as there was no other convenient place, and there it's easily accessible. The seats can be folded forward, to give room for replacing the batteries. The engine details are just some imaginary ones built from the remaining parts (nothing working). But the snorkel tubing continues on the inside :) Here is the whole chassis with the interior: And here are a few more renders and photos of the complete model, but much more is available on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
  13. Hello everyone, Im a new Eurobricks member and have only a few posts, some of them present my own technic creations. I noticed, that there is no possibility to see all posts of any member even in it`s personal page (correct me if I`m wrong). So, taking an example from Nico71 i decided to make a dedicated topic for myself, there i will share my lated technic creations. Main goals for this topic: Make a list of my Lego technic creations Make a brief preview of each car Give a link to a full story of development... Please, put all the suggestions and discussions into dedicated topics if possible ;-) Chevrolet Corvette [RC MOD] Features: RWD, driven by two PF L-motors PF Servo for steering Buwizz 2.0 for power some bodywork modifications ;-) Full story of the build could be found in the following topic: Fitst PF car Well, everyone knows, that to get skill you have to practice a lot... and first results differ a lot from the later one... Here is one of my first PF cars. Features: modular build (3 sections) PF L-motor for propulsion PF Servo-motor for steering Full story of the build could be found in the following topic:
  14. RC Off-roader with Dual Diagonal Drive I think I'm onto something that will get me through the winter. Summary Dual diagonal drive means: 1) having two separate drive trains with equal torque while 2) preserving the advantage of having an open distribution for cornering and 3) passing diagonal tests without using differential locks. Background I have been playing with this idea for a while already, especially after seeing @KevinMoo's dual drive models (Mitsubishi Pajero and Dual-Driveshaft Pickup). @KevinMoo rightfully addressed the vulnerability of LEGO parts in RC models and the fact that using independent drive trains for the left and right sides, loses the benefit of differentials while cornering. This got me thinking. Using independent drive trains for left and right in a 4WD model does indeed drop the benefit of differentials while cornering, but what if we would pair the wheels diagonally, so pair the left front (LF) wheel with the right rear (RR) wheel, and pair the right front (RF) wheel with the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'dual diagonal drive' (I borrowed the term from the electric skateboard scene) would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is very close to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution by means of a differential between the two drive trains is much less of a problem as with separate drive trains for the left and right side wheels. On a very uneven surface, where one or two wheels may lose contact with the ground, the wheels that do have contact are typically lined up diagonally, see image. With dual diagonal drive, the vehicle would still have traction, even without locking any differentials. Only on slippery surfaces, there are chances of spinning wheels. So this is what I'm thinking of. We start with the basic dual diagonal drive setup: Two separate drive trains, one for the LF and RR wheels and one for the RF and LR wheels. The drive trains cross using two 24t gears and an auxiliary 16t gear that sits right underneath the auxiliary axle for the other drive train. So no clutch gears are involved in this crossing. I inserted a 1L Technic liftarm inside each differential - idea from @Madoca 1977's Toyota Land Cruiser 80 - to prevent the bevel gears from popping out. Next we add a manual locking feature, which closes the differentials with a single lever. This locking feature will force each pair of wheels involved in one of the drive trains to have equal speed. Now we connect each XL-motor to one of the differentials, using a small 4-speed gearbox. That means; two separate 4-speed gearboxes. This may be a bit ambitious, we'll have to see in real-life whether this is feasible or not. I might fall back to two 2-speed gearboxes. I did pay attention to the amount of torque in the transmission though. I geared up the XL-motor outputs and geared down the transmission output. That makes the transmission spin faster with less torque. The gearboxes are operated synchronously using a 90-degree stepper, which is controlled by a Servo-motor. Each gear shift axle has its own 90-degree limiter. And finally the outputs of the XL-motors are transferred to a fake V8-engine via a normal differential. The sole purpose of this differential is to combine the XL-motor outputs for the fake engine. For the steering I'm thinking of using a servo motor. I don't really like the directness of steering with a servo-motor, but the steering link attachment points are moved one stud backwards, which confines the steering angle. This adds to better handling and protects the CV-joints in the wheel hubs. I don't know where this is going to end. I'm not even sure about the exact kind of car I will be targeting, but it sure needs to be some kind of all-rounder. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
  15. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  16. Hello everyone, today I`m going to reveal to all of you my Red coupe MOC that I placed on my avatar ;-) A long long story begins There is a long story of development of this car. It starts with my childhood dream and the First Lego technic PF car (see ) (that I built in 2012). After I left my hobby for about 4-5 years. And then I returned with RC MOD of Chevrolet Corvette set (see ). After that I tried to deal with a big scale (1:10) by building an RC MOC of Porsche 911 RSR (see ) - that was a big challenge for me and required a significant upgrade of my lego workshop... At the very end of my story with Porsche, I get some ideas for a new car... but to build a car from that ideas took me 2 more months. The cassis and first ideas of the body I was developing a new RC chassis for my Porsche 911, it is a long process, you know... Finally, the chassis has been developed. It was built out of ideas and I was very pleased with it! I needed to add several mounting points to it in order to swap the body. The chassis was waiting for me on the next desk where I used to play lego and I was doing my everyday job on computer. Then suddenly, I looked up onto a shelf and noticed, that fenders from Land Rover set 42110 has a nice shape as a front grill! I checked my idea, and it worked! At that moment I realized that the story of a new car begins!... To build the back lights of the new car I use the old Bionicle heads! And made first lines of the roof and A-pillars After that the process stopped... New fenders from Ferrari set Process stopped... I was struggling a low with making the wheel arched for front wheels... the bonnet I made required me to make a very sport-like very slime and curved wheel arches. At the same time they needed to be sturdy enough for outdoor driving and also provide some space for the suspension travel... After a month of unsuccessful attempts I was ready to give up! But likely for me, the new Lego set Ferrari 42125 has arrived! I waited for another month for a "good" price since it was totally overpriced form the very beginning. The Ferrari fenders bring the new power to me. Also they provided the color for the car. To finish the bodywork in red I bought two Ducati sets their parts help me a lot! On the photo you can see the gorgeous moment of attachment of the side-panels to the car. After I solved the problem with fenders, the car was assembled piece by piece in such a way, that all my ideas nearly "provide" the form of the car and the part use. As you can see, the first prototype of a bonnet was lifted up to be a roof ;-). Some underlying ideas for bodywork: - Short front and back bumpers (comparing to the Porsche set) - Front grill with a fender from the Land Rover set - Narrowing door panels The car has no interior and no doors, since I was building an RC car. I was saving the weight. Final car with batteries (Buwizz) has a total weight of 1,5 kg. Photos of a finished car Hope you like it! After finishing the first version, I made a significant update of it. Now it is equipped with 2 powerful Buwizz motors and powered by 2 Buwizz 3.0 bricks. The total weight is 1,63 kg and the mass of the car is moved closer to the rear wheels for a better grip. All electronics is located in the lowest 5 studs of a car so it is very stable and quite fast (about 12 km/h) it is really fun to play. But you heed a flat areas since the ground clearance is about 2 studs (all in all it is a sport car). The suspension is independent and very responsive. I have no video to share for now and the winter has already come, so I will wait until spring! Now im 100% involved in 4x4 technic RC off-roaders.... P.S. I will try to make a OPDF instruction for my MOC, but it will take a lot of times. And if you have any questions, no not hesitate to ask me - the car was not disassembled and it is waiting for the warn and sunny days on a shelf ;-)
  17. Hello everyone! Im very glad to show my RC Porsche 911 RSR. As always, story begins far far in the past... My childhood dream was to get an RC car... Some time ago I shared with you a Corvette RC mod, and that was the "first step" in my dream coming true! In that project I understood, that a lego car can go a decent speed especially with the Buwizz 2.0. BUT... But the speed uncovered a another problem, that is the lack of control! Lego bricks have too much wobbling... Searching for the solution of this problem in the internet I found several buggy projects with technic bricks that has a positive caster... Ant I instantly understood that the positive caster is the thing I need in my car. Also, I was struggling a lot with gigantic scrab-radius. But in that time all rims produced by lego was symmetric. Finally, the Land-rover set has arrived... And the new rims give me some hope... Now I was going to build a 1:10 scale car. But the Land-rover set itself was a bad candidate for motorization due to it`s mass and a wobbly chassis. Due to the lack of skills in bodywork I decided to modify the lego set. I choose a Porsche 911 RSR set for my needs. One would ask me: why you call this RC mod a MOC? Well, the cassis of lego sets are totally inappropriate for making RC cars - most of them are too wobbly and weak. Moreover I wanted to build a positive caster. So I decided to build a custom RC chassis that will for to the bodywork of the initial lego set. Here is a front suspension. Yeah, that is my first "finished" chassis with suspension. Do you see some unusual ideas? I managed to build a double steering arms in order to make the steering system stronger. Moreover, I made a double steering rack steered with a single gear... On the back I decoded to build a live axle with motors connected directly to wheels: no friction on gears, no weak universal joins... I used the original instructions to check the dimensions! Here you can see the finished chassis - nothing special! I placed several smaller wheels for comparison. I would like to mention, that my first RC car was build with the smallest wheels (the very right wheel on the photo). The main reason why I build a car with small wheels was the lack of power the lego motors have (as I thought back then I was at the very beginning of my lego technic build experience). The main question for now: will the motors have enough power to move this big chassis? I made the first drive, and the car really goes well! Unfortunately I did not make a video, but it was going about 7-8 km/h - that was not a bad speed comparing to the 9398. After finishing the chassis I started the bodywork. Then I build front and back parts of the body (with a lot of changes from the original) I decided that it would be great to have a single body-unit that sits on the chassis on several attachment points. And this is the result: The main reason why I build a detachable body is because I was going to make modifications of chassis! Hope you like my post and the car ;-) Feel free to comment on technical aspects. P.S. one fan fact about this car: this RC car has only one gear! - sounds crazy, isn`t it,
  18. Hello everyone, today I will tell you a sad story about my first attempts in lego technic RC. Lego technic set 9398 was my dream since I like really like both RC cars and lego. And then I get one I was totally disappointed! 9398 set was a slow turtle that stops in front of any "decent" obstacle. At first, I tried to deal this problem by changing gears and it gives a result, but the car became a super-slow turtle... After that I decided to motorize a 42029 Pick up set with motors from 9398 set, but the car had not enough power as well... The wheel were too big and heavy for two motors... (at least I thought that in my early days). Finally I understood that the smaller wheels car has, the easier it will be for motors to move the car... And I decided to build a car with the smallest wheels possible! The car is assembled form the 3 sections: front wheels with steering rack, rear axle and the middle part with all the motors emplaced. Technical specs: 1 steering with servo-motor 2 propulsion with L-motor 3 PF battery box and receiver Here you likes it... This is my first "finished" motorized technic MOC !
  19. Here's my latest creation: Ferrari F40 Model Info: Scale: 1:10 Size: L45, W21, H12, cm Weight: 1476g Parts: 1589 Features: - Remote control - Working V8 engine - Independent suspension - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Pop-up headlights - Modular construction - PF: 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo Video: Pictures: More images: Building instruction made in Bricklink Studio coming with 564 steps on 442 pages:
  20. Hello everyone, in this post I want to tell you about my motorization project I completed about 2 years ago. The set 42093 brings the wheels to the technic community. I always wanted to build an RC car with lego bricks but I had no experience neither in bodywork nor in building RC chassis, so this project was my second "successful" attempt. Technical specs: 1 steering with Servo-motor 2 propulsion with 2 L-motors 3 powered by Buwizz 2.0 I also made some improvements in bodywork. Enjoy the build! As you can see, I improved the roof by making a higher A-pillars and adding grey arches on the sides. A full gallery is available by the link:
  21. Book Review (Review by Thorsten Benter) Almost a year has passed since initial publication of this book. There are a number of on-line reviews available – this one on EB seems to come in a bit late. Well, I don’t think so, in contrast. This book is a comprehensive how-to-build-a-train resource rather than a compilation of what is out there. And this sets the book aside from so many others. It will be up-to-date as long as The LEGO Company produces bricks and sets. Plus, with the arrival of the Powered Up system, more space becomes available inside the train body as compared to comparable PF functionality: The dedicated receiver becomes obsolete and no line of sight is required for communication creating some additional space – space for sophisticated building techniques! This books tells you everything you need to know about the historical LEGO train theme development at TLG, about scales and widths, about pivot points, microstriping, SNOTing and offsetting, and so much more with relevance to train building! (Note: A PDF copy of this review with higher resolution pictures will be shortly available at Holger’s website) Summary: A must-have for every LEGO train fan, for people entertaining the idea of getting into LEGO trains, and for people who still don’t know that they will become train fans after reading the book Superb photography of LEGO models, outstanding renders of CAD models In-depth analysis and assessment of the different LEGO train eras Demonstration and teaching of advanced building and design skills My personal LEGO book score: 10/10 About the book: Author: Holger Matthes Published: Oct. 2017 by No Starch Press Inc., San Francisco, CA, USA. Hardcover, 135 pages + 90(+) pages reserved for 4 full building instructions (ICE train, gondola car, Swiss Crocodile, and a vintage passenger coach), 150+ most relevant and educational figures (excluding the beautiful chapter openers or page breakers as well as the set building instructions), 20+ tables including bulleted lists. ISBN: 1-59327-819-5 Price: € 14 (Kindle edition, Amazon); € 23 (Print edition, Amazon) both as of 9-2018. $ 19 (ebook only), $ 25 (ebook and print edition, both as of 9-2018. The present English edition published by No Starch Press is based on the initial German edition “LEGO Eisenbahn – Konzepte und Techniken für realistische Modelle”, which was originally published by dpunkt Verlag Heidelberg, ISBN: 978-3-86490-355-7. The initial German edition of the book based on Holger’s manuscript composed in 2015/16 caught the attention of foreign publishers: It began with the present English edition in 2017. It then took a bit longer until the Chinese publisher “Posts & Telecom Press” (who has already published a bunch of LEGO books written by fans) very recently released the Chinese version: (ISBN: 978-7-115-48419-2): After publication in 2017, No Starch Press’ English version became the reference for further translations. In summer 2018, the Spanish (“LEGO TRENES”; LEGO TRENES and the Italian (“TRENI LEGO”; editions became available. And the Russian version is on its way (sorry, Holger couldn’t tell me any further information about its availability): (Note that the Russian cover on the right is purely made up by me – Google translator says the Cyrillic headline reads “in preparation” – but who knows …) About the author Holger Matthes is a hobbyist who has been building with LEGO since 2000. He was involved in the creation of various official LEGO projects such as the Hobby Train set #10183 and frequently presents his models and gives workshops at LEGO exhibitions worldwide [copied from Amazon website]. Table of content of the book (short version) Part 1: Overview and history Introduction A history of LEGO trains Part 2: Building your own train models (My own creations – MOCs) Basic principles Designing your own models Case studies in design Part 3: Building instructions A note on the included building instructions Appended to the body of the book, you’ll find four high quality and carefully composed instructions in addition to two free online instructions: Inter-City Express (ICE; driving and trailer cars, PF motorization, windshield designs) Gondola car Swiss electric Be 6/6 “Crocodile” Vintage passenger car Steam Engine BR 10 (as bonus online available at Steam Engine BR 80 (as bonus online available at There is further information available online. Holger directs you to; but most of the very valuable stuff is actually hosted on his website. I highly recommend to visit his site: You will find a wealth of background information, tips&tricks, how-to, and much more. The Book Let’s face it: Almost one year after initial publication, Holger still sets the stage with this book for LEGO train fans. It will be tough to get it much further; not on 135 pages (not counting the instructions pages), not with regard to the topics covered, not with regard to the width of the audience addressed. This book provides diverse perspectives on the art of building LEGO trains, coaches, and rolling stock – and is at the same time always determined, focused, and addresses most relevant “issues”. Train builders repeatedly face tough challenges: A train is not a building, which simply resides in all its beauty; rather trains are work horses – either hauling heavy cargo loads or endless passenger coaches, or switching rolling stock for hours and hours in a train show – or on your personal layout. At the same time, a LEGO train is “beautiful” and “esthetic” in the recognition of a train fan - as a building is for City fans. However, to be able to render real trains into LEGO models, regardless on the scale used, requires some serious knowledge about the myriads of LEGO bricks available, about advanced building techniques, and even electrical wiring skills. There simply isn’t much space in a LEGO train. Space as in “Space … is big. Really big. You just won't believe how vastly, hugely, mind-bogglingly big it is. I mean, you may think it's a long way down the road to the chemist's, but that's just peanuts to space.” [Douglas Adams, The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy, 1979]. It is usually >extremely< packed inside a LEGO train model, particularly when electrifying it. Shaping the outer appearance with advanced building methods such as SNOT or angled and carefully secured pieces usually eats up all the space inside the hull. And lastly: Trains need to be sturdy. They not only haul heavy loads – they also have to run endless distances on track – in the best case on long stretches of straight track and smooth curves, here and there a bit bumpy – in the worst case negotiating endless and sharply bent curves and switch points in complex rail yards. This is exactly what Holger addresses in his book: How to achieve a sturdy, reliable, and at the same time esthetic and beautiful train. And we should just get it straight from the very beginning: Stickers are frequently recognized as the “icing on the cake”. And this is certainly true. BUT: Believe it or not, you can also legally “build” tiny lines, sloped coloring, narrowly split windows and much more when using advanced building techniques! And that sets aside this book from so many postings, building instructions, and other resources: Holger shows us how to accomplish “brick-built stickering” by using the endless variety of bricks and plates to build streamlined and nicely accentuated and smooth surfaces – rather than using the bulky, essentially non-LEGO-philosophy-but-by-TLG-released ICE #55768 nose with stickers attached all over it … There is so much more in the book. This is what I am trying to highlight in the following. Holger’s book is a must for us all: Beginners, advanced builders, as well as Train Tech gurus! And those who believe that they already are. One more thing to add: Photography and CAD image rendering. Or: A picture is worth a thousand words. Holger says: “The biggest thank you goes out to my old friend and master photographer Andy Bahler, without whose pictures this book would have been useless. His commitment, night after night, was above and beyond expectation …” The pictures are spectacular – you will notice right away. Organization of the book There are three parts in this book, although there is no such explicit assignment in the table of contents. Holger tells us on page 2 though: “The first part of the book gives an overview of LEGO trains over the different eras, covers some history, and answers questions about how to combine old LEGO trains from the attic with today’s kits. The second part of the book is about building your own LEGO train models, also known as My Own Creations (MOCs). Using my many years of experience building LEGO models, I’ll show you how to create proper train models, covering both the possibilities and the limitations. Finally, the book ends with step-by-step building instructions for several models.” Usually, the table of content is a good starting point for the organization analysis. However, this book is extremely focused and self-contained in each of the chapters of the three parts. This is very helpful (and also very different from other books), as the LEGO universe, including train worlds, is as diverse as it possibly gets. The number of pieces alone currently available through TLC’s official channels such as LEGO sets, PaB, and LEGO stores – or even more so – through the uncountable BrickLink stores around the globe is truly mind-boggling. Well, it is not only the sheer number, but more so the endless combinations possible – and what you achieve with such. Chances are: One gets rapidly lost and a little frustrated. Exactly this is NOT happening when “reading” this book. OK. We do it differently – as it seems appropriate for a “different” book: We walk through, as the very nice and focused organization of the book simply allows that. Part 1 “INTRODUCTION Decades ago, the toy designers at LEGO likely never imagined how durable their work would be. Today, parents can dust off their childhood LEGO trains and play together with their children who have just received their first brand-new LEGO train set. And fans of all ages can revive older sets and parts to create entirely new models.” In order to prevent such an almost natural “disorientation” or lost in parts and ways to connect them, in part one the book begins with a review of on-line resources. Information-, instruction-, and brick-availability-wise. Holger lists only the most relevant internet locations. Start here and progress further on your own. It makes your building life so much easier. As with every printed book, online references may become outdated at some point in time. Holger names thus only most reliable web portals, which will most probably exist for a long time. “A HISTORY OF LEGO TRAINS Let’s explore the evolution of the LEGO train systems from the earliest set to the present.” Next, there is a historical review of which type of train system was available at what time defining an era. This is rather significant. First of all, this approach results in a theme classification rather than a temporal evolution of sets: The blue, grey, 9V, RC, and PF era. As the pieces from different areas are naturally largely interchangeable (otherwise it would not be LEGO!), you may mix them as you see fit. Nevertheless, each era has a certain typical appearance – if you want to capture that, you need to know what was going on during that particular era. As an example, people in love with the grey (12 V) era often capture the look and feel of that time – for example studs everywhere, not many curved bricks/diverse slopes (as they were not available at that time) – rather limited colors schemes, black, red, and yellow ... The reader learns what has been produced when and in what color scheme. There is also ample of information on the technical features of each era – it appears as if the author is deeply involved and well connected in the LEGO train community – all the way up to participate in the design of selected sets. Holger shares his knowledge with the reader – always in a concise and focused way. It is pointed out that Holger is not even attempting to compile a complete list of sets available within the different eras – in contrast, he is summarizing the unique era characteristics and features. He focuses on power sources, tracks (including switches and crossings), and other elements (wheels, baseplates, in addition to unique features, such as trucks, couplings and buffers). The grey (12 V) era sections stands out of course, as this was the most diverse and most creative train theme ever (IMHO, of course!). Here you will find an – again unique – compilation of “remote-controlled accessories”, “windows and doors”, “light bricks”, “weighted bricks” … What I personally find extremely useful – and it must have been a considerable effort – is i) a summary table, listing the most important features of each era, and ii) Holger’s evaluation of these features he headlines as “Seen from today’s perspective”. Even long-time and experienced train enthusiasts will surely find valuable information in this chapter! Part 2 “BASIC PRINCIPLES Let’s dive into the world of LEGO elements and explore the endless ways to connect them.” Now that one knows the individual features of the different eras, Holger opens part two of the book with a compilation of relevant LEGO pieces for train building. It is really surprising how many there are! I have built trains myself – seeing all the various elements nicely grouped and organized makes it so much easier to get an overview of individual pieces, select the ones you may want to try out – and compare them to other options. This section is extremely helpful when you start off with a new model – or when you want to overhaul an already existing train. In the following section, Holger introduces typical train specific building techniques (although you can use many of them throughout the entire LEGO universe!). And is not surprising that there are eleven dedicated pages on SNOTing and fractional-plate offsetting in all three dimensions. These are the most crucial techniques when shaping the look of a train. SNOT (studs not on top) is a powerful technique and has become very popular among train fans. Originally rather restricted to a few elements, which allowed to “reverse” the building order, the LEGO Company has released a broad variety of SNOT elements over time. These are of course also shown in the preceding chapter on relevant LEGO train pieces. I’d say that this chapter is extremely important for beginners and of great interest to experts as there are various approaches shown side-by-side. At least for me this chapter is highly inspiring. The same is true for plate offsetting, i.e., building with only one half stud or even less displacement off the stud grid. First, the look of a train becomes much smoother even when not using curved bricks; secondly, this technique allows you to literally “build” colored surfaces with fine structures and even thin stripes (called microstriping). Without using stickers that is … Ever used minifig guns to create pantographs? Or ice skates as door handles? No? Well – Holger shows you! “DESIGNING YOUR OWN MODELS You might be wondering if you’re ready to begin making your own models. Which train should you build? Maybe you should start with the commuter train that takes you to work every day, or a freight train? And who hasn’t dreamed of a beautiful steam engine in LEGO?” Now we are getting down to business. The following two chapters of part 2 are not about “building a train” – they are about “how to do it right”. We are talking about scaling and modeling rather than “pushing along”. Before Holger goes into details though, he points out the importance of thoroughly choosing a scale. This is an extremely important decision to be made when attempting to model a real-world train. How much detailing is required? How much abstraction is allowed? Citing Holger again (page 73): “Building a recognizable model isn’t about scaling every part exactly, although proportion matters. Intentionally omitting some details or exaggerating others is usually necessary. Scale modeling with LEGO is a bit like drawing a caricature: the end result may not be an exact likeness, but it is recognizable and undeniable.” We learn about model scales (1, L, O, HO …), alternative approaches (scaling by wheel size) as well as choosing a model width (6-, 7-, 8-stud-wide). Don’t mix these up – almost any scale may be used for any track width! There are so many diverse examples here on EB. Holger narrows the scope of widths covered in his book to 6 - 8 stud wide (see cover page of the book), as these are the widths most builders choose – in addition to the official 6-wide LEGO models. He discusses the advantages and downsides of each of these widths in detail. A very important aspect when designing and building a LEGO train – regardless of the model scale – is the official LEGO track geometry. Maximum distances of fixed axles, alleviation of this rather restricted distance using articulated single trucks (a theme repeatedly discussed here on EB), sliding middle axles in three axle trucks – you will find all the answers in this book. When it comes to attaching cars to each other – even more design aspects have to be considered, which are all discussed: Pivot points vs car distance, additional pivot points to reduce car distance, the effect of pivot points on design issues, to name a few. And then: Steam engine design: 7 full pages! As far as I am concerned, steam engines are the most challenging models to render in LEGO. To say it with Anthony Sava’s words: “I'd buy a set with a steam engine in it, but I have little interest in buying a box on wheels.” (EB Forum, April 2nd 2018). Holger shows us all the challenges and caveats. The remaining sections in this chapter are: Power and Control, discussing mostly the implementation of PF elements, Modeling Details, and Track Design and Layout. Again, extremely valuable information and guides are given. One comment on third party suppliers: At the time of writing this book, both SBrick controllers (as a replacement for PF receivers, featuring wireless Bluetooth connectivity) as well as ME Models (as a supplier of wider radii curves) were actively present on the market. As of now (i.e., August 2018) though, the new LEGO Powered Up system introduced lately makes SBricks for trains almost obsolete – and Me Models have gone out of business some time ago. There are a good number of very good 3rd party alternatives for additional track pieces – large curve radii, complex switch point geometries to name only a few. They come as superb injection molded pieces which are almost indistinguishable from original LEGO track, as well as 3D printed varieties. I believe that a book of the format Holger has chosen simply does have to deal in-depth with such developments as they are much more volatile than almost any LEGO product. Taking aside the LEGO RC interim solution of course. But again, Holger gives a full account of why RC happened at all and why its lifetime was even shorter than that of many 3rd party small businesses. I really enjoyed this section very much. Regarding very recent developments by TLG naturally not covered in the book (the original German manuscript was written in 2015/16): The introduction of the Powered Up system leaves much more space within a train engine so that all the building tips and tricks provided in Holger’s book become even more intriguing! It appears as we can even more freely combine advanced power/remote control options with the present advanced building instructions. Which makes this book even more valuable! “CASE STUDIES IN DESIGN Armed with the tools and knowledge about LEGO modeling covered in the previous chapters, we’ll now take a closer look at the actual design process using some of my own builds as a guide.” This chapter needs to be explored – interpreted – by yourself. This is – as far as I am concerned – the heart of the book. Here you will learn how to begin designing a model. I find this part the most difficult: How to begin – looking at the all the bricks, plates, slopes, clips, there are so many of them … so we should take this to our heart: “Designing a model is a creative and personal process: there’s no right or wrong way to build a successful model. The guidelines in this section are meant to get you started. You’ll certainly develop your own strategies along the way.” Along with: Decide on a scale and choose the width: 6-, 7-, or 8-wide? Decide how the train will be powered and what type of track it’ll run on. Choose a target audience: should it be a realistic, recognizable model, or are play functions more important? You will notice: This is about >you<! Nevertheless, you will also learn a lot in this chapter. Holger has chosen a regional express train (Bombardier double deck train), a powerful electric locomotive (Siemens Vectron engine), and a (well, Holger is German after all …) steam engine (BR 10) as case studies. This is a very clever selection – as the techniques he shows apply to almost every engine I am aware of – including American diesels as well as American steamers … or all the various European trains, Emanuele (EB member LT12V) is currently presenting here on EB … And finally … Part 3 “BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS! Get inspired with these step-by-step instructions for building an Inter-City Express, a simple gondola, a Swiss Electric Locomotive Be 6/8 “Crocodile,” a vintage passenger car, and a steam engine.” From page 136 to 227 you will find first class, high(est)-quality building instructions for the above referenced models. There is nothing more to add. As said: This book is a must … Play Well! @Jim Thank you very much Jim for giving me the opportunity of writing this review for EB - it was a great pleasure. And for sending me this wonderful book! @HoMa Thank you Holger for writing this book. And for all the additional information you gave me when writing this review and for your comments! Thanks for reading, Thorsten
  22. Hi everyone! After building some bikes me and friend (who's gonna post his entry one of these days) challenged each other to make the smallest RC vehicle possible and why not, also make it ridiculously overpowered :) So I made this little city car, it has some brutal power given by the buggy motor connected with the fast output and geared up to 1.666. It should travel at around 10kmh but given the high center of mass, like a city car thrown at 160kmh as soon as you try to make a sharp turn it rolls over... wich I admit it's pretty fun! Indoors it performs crazy drifts and it's really enjoyable to drive around, probably geared 1:1 it would be even better for indoor usage. I hope you'll like it !!! Features:- 1 Buggy motor - 1 Buwizz Measures:19.3cm x 11.8cm x 8.1cm350g weight I'll post a video as soon as it stops raining like crazy as it is these days :D
  23. Hey folks, I want to share with you one of my current projects, the RC Superbike. It is another of those self-balancing motorcycles, but has some nice additional specs which might have considered to not work in the brick-universe. Unluckily I couldn't finish the superbike project this summer, final highspeed runs will have to take place in the next summer to have some warm tarmac again for giving some additional grip. Specs Scale 1:6.5 Weight ~650g Single swingarm construction for the rear wheel Working transmission via chain Powered by Buwizz 3 Two buggy motors 1x Custom 5L Liftarm made out of aluminium with a ballbearing included Theoretical topspeed should be astonnishing 62 km/h, basing on the 2500 rpm with BW3 at 12V peak (which by its scale would translate into 403 km/h) Real world maximum speed may be lower due to physics kicking in (wobble, weave) Pictures Videos Videos related to the RC Superbike can be found in my youtube playlist What are your thoughts?
  24. I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. EDIT: final version of the semi: Instructions: (Semi Tractor) (Box Trailer) The first iteration/prototype: Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: Sneak peek of the instructions:
  25. Hi! This time I'd like to show you this model of a Japanese car - Toyota Corolla TE72! It is really simple and it has only tow functions: driving (buggy motor) and steering (Servo motor), but it is also possible to install working front lights. It is pretty fun and quick, though it doesn't have any suspension. It is almost the same scale as the 42109 TopGear car set. The goal was to make a recognizable model, so I hope you will like it. :) Video link: Photos: Thank you!