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About TechnicSummse

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  1. Why not? A real damper works with the friction of a liquid, and can like this work in a non linear way. This part would bring a linear damping, because the frictoin will stay the same at all speeds of compression. But anyway seems there is no interest in damping lego RC-cars at all. I think its true... a damping would only be interesting at big and fast models... and the most models are big OR fast...
  2. Well sure... a sprung wheel without a damper will allways jump like a rubberball and like this loose traction pretty often. The damper helps to keep the wheel at the ground all the time. You can see how important dampers are in this video. Driving without dampers looks really funny... but no car would be able to drive like this ;)
  3. The damper is bigger, and the shown part allready has the 1 stud offset at the bottom... so it fits 1:1 with a large spring. Have you seen lego-rc cars with big travel offroad at high speeds? For example this one: Compare it to a real RC-Car... The Lego RC-car will allways look like a toy... because the suspension is just sprung, and not damped... thats the big difference.
  4. Today i found this part in a bulk of Lego wich i bought. Did anyone ever try to use this as a damper, combined with a hard spring, to replicate a real car suspension? -> like this:
  5. TESLA concept 24 hours race car

    I quess you coupled the 2 motors by one axle...? Just seperate this connection... use 1 motor for each wheel, and here you go... you will have your differential-effect ;) BTW... i guess, its the Tesla T1 wich you rebuildet.. right?
  6. [HELP] 60° degres stepper

    @Didumos69 @Zero (Zblj) I would also be interested, in how they engage. Are the positions like: siwtched left; middle position left; middle position right; switched right? Can the driving rings run 100% freely in the "middle" positions?
  7. [HELP] 60° degres stepper

    Hmm, downgearing is also a nice idea :D Like this i could use every 90° stepper... just gear it down 1:1,5 and i have 60° steps...
  8. [HELP] 60° degres stepper

    @Charbel Not the one i have seen... but really cool! Thank you :)
  9. I know i found a 60 degres stepper a few month agao, in some vidoes i saw on yt. Now i could really need it, but i dont find it again :( Does anyone have a link to a working 60 degres stepper, wich can be controlled manual or by servo? Thanks :)
  10. Try doubeling just the output from the one motor, this should be pretty easy, and room-saving.
  11. [MOC] Ocean Racer

    Any news to this? I didnt found the topic again... wanted to ask a few weeks ago allready...
  12. Is the screw printed, or a lego one? Do you know how much rpm the screw does?
  13. Mini-Truck

    @Leonard Goldstein Verry nice little car :) Were there no problems at all with the chain links? I am pretty surprised you can power them with a L-motor without problems of falling apart. Also no problems in the rough terrain ... they did not shake off? And again i am suprised, you did not support the 16t gear on the sides... on the front and rear axle ? The only supports for the rear and front axle are the wheel-hubs?
  14. Motor overheat?

    Well yes... as i thought... this is the problem. The old battery-boxes deliver even less power then the PF-boxes. With the PF-Box it will work a little bit better... but still, if you load the motors to much, the battery-box will give up fast. Your chassis seems to be pretty light, so maybe you are lucky, and the PF-Box could work ok. But for full power, at hills or with a heavier chassis you will need 1 battery-box for each motor.
  15. Motor overheat?

    Hi YamaLP, welcome to Eurobricks. Wich batterbox are you using? The buggy-motors need a lot of power, and the regular PF-battery-boxes cannot suply enough power for loaded buggy-motors. You need at least 1 battery-box for each buggy-motor, or buwizz or the Lego-RC-unit. Could you post an image of your car?