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Found 103 results

  1. The new parts in 42083 have opened the doors to some new gearbox designs. I saw that @Didumos69 and @Erik Leppen have started working out some potential designs, I think it would be good to have these new gearboxes collected in a single topic. @Jim or @Milan If you think this should be merged with a different topic, please do so. * * * Here is a design that makes it easy to visualize the gear ratios. It's far from compact, but the ratios are well spread out with only one overdrive gear. Yellow - control Green - input Red - output
  2. What with a certain company ripping off my Koenigsegg One:1 and making a pretty bad job of it at that if you have seen some of their marketing photo's where the flex axles bend into strange shapes. Also due to the fact that my own Lego version started to look a bit shabby when parked next to the more recent Ultimatum GTR V10, i decided to do a major upgrade, basically start over, but this time without trying so hard to replicate the real Koenigsegg, but rather with the aim of making a Koenigsegg based car that is designed more with the aim of making it look good in Lego Technic (we will see how that turns out!) I will be aiming to replicate the Koenigsegg suspension, slight tweaks to my previous rear suspension and a major improvement to the previous front suspension to make it stiffer. I am looking at a combination of my previous 3+R (fake) paddle shift gear box from the Koenigsegg, and the Ultimatum's improved 5+N+R. I have already designed a compromise 4+N+R to fit under the 8 cylinder engine. I just have to work out the shifter mechanism. The engine will be 1 stud lower than the previous Koenigsegg The doors MUST use the same mechanism as the previous Koenigsegg, but I am looking to change the method to actuate them. The roof needs to be at least 1 stud lower than previous (that was my main issue with the bodywork of the previous Koenigsegg when standing it next to the Ultimatum) and here I may move slightly away from the real Koengsegg design, I will see where it all takes me. Again it will be 1:10 scale or thereabouts as I am not yet that inspired to work at 1:8 as I like the challenge of less space to work with. The back end is in progress, and while it looks similar to the previous Koenigsegg, virtually every part has been re-designed and I think significantly improved, so far, I am having fun.
  3. The Koenigsegg One:1 was introduced in 2014. Seven examples, including one prototype, were built during 2014 and 2015. This was one of the most exclusive production car programs ever envisaged in the car industry. The hp-to-kg curb weight ratio is an astonishing 1:1. This has been called the “dream” equation, previously thought impossible when it comes to fully road legal and usable sports cars. The One:1 is the first homologated production car in the world with one Megawatt of power, thereby making it the world´s first series produced Megacar. More on the One:1 at http://koenigsegg.com/one1/ This car grabbed my attention about a year ago so I decided to try to build it. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Replicate the rear triplex suspension set up of the Koenigsegg One:1 as closely as possible Replicate the front suspension set up Syncro dihedral door hinges which are typically Koenigsegg Paddle shift gearbox - a new challenge for me. A good approximation of the real car with the bodywork. Tough enough to withstand my young three year old playing with it. Intuitive enough for my kids to explore the functions. After a long build process and lots of experimentation I am really happy with the end result. The paddle shift gear box ended up being 3 speed plus reverse mainly due to space restrictions and also complexity. Perhaps a future project will be to expand this concept to include additional gears. The paddle shifts at the steering wheel are aesthetic in that they are linked to the actual manual shifters which are camouflaged on top of the dashboard, but it is not really possible to exert enough force on the dash paddles to change gear. This is presented in the images below and in the CAD image. Over time I will digitise this and add a bit of video to show the functions, but first, here are some pictures. [TBC]
  4. The Gearbox I have been playing about with some sequential gearbox ideas over the last year trying to work out how to get more than 4 gears out of the 42056 style gear system, and more importantly with realistic ratios between the gears. I thought that I was getting somewhere and decided that it was finally time to build a new car around this new gearbox, however, the first iteration gearbox was not up to scratch, so I put it to one side, spent last summer working on my house, and came back to it in the autumn determined to make it work. The other key design aspect was that this all had to fit within a 1:10 scale model, with the engine not mounted ridiculously high. The solution I came up with has a lot of gears in it (mostly idlers) but it works well, and is geared so that 1st gear doesn't just lock up the rear wheels when the car is pushed along. This version has reverse, neutral and 5 forward gears. 1st-2nd - 1.667 step ratio 2nd-3rd - 1.333 step ratio 3rd-4th - 1.250 step ratio 4th-5th - 1.200 step ratio The Supercar This time I decided that it would be my own design, but there were a few ideas from a few real cars that influenced the outcome, the car also adapts and builds on some ideas presented in other recent MOCs such as the gear shift/selector by Didumos69, Here are some pictures.
  5. I have finally got around to announcing my 40th Anniversary of Technic build! I am going to be making my first fully manual model in honor of the early Technic models. I am planning to build a 2017 Ariel Nomad Tactical, which is essentially a supercharged, street-legal sand-rail/Group B racer hybrid. The Real Thing: Ariel Nomad Ariel Nomad As you can see, it is a pretty awesome vehicle. It can do 0-60mph in 3.4 seconds, 0-100mph in 8.4 seconds, and it has a top speed of 125mph. It is rear-wheel drive only with a 6+R manual transmission, chain-driven by an inline 4-cylinder 2.4L K24 Honda i-VTEC engine, transversely mounted over the rear axle which produces 235bph (which can be upped with an optional supercharger) and 300lb-ft of torque. It is built for off-roading, as it has long-travel, unequal length, double-wishbone suspension, with Bilstein shocks, and approach/departure angles of 71 and 82 degrees respectively. To top all that off, it comes in whatever color you want it to. And the whole thing weighs less than 1500lb. Who wouldn't want one?! For more info, including all the options and still more specs, check out the manufacturer's page. The Model: I am planning on a manual model with a 6-speed transmission, 3+R gearbox, HoG steering, full suspension, and hopefully a fake engine. And maybe in the future... An RC version with buggy motors! Some blueprints I am using for this model. Ariel Nomad Blueprints CURRENT PROGRESS: Gearbox Revision! All the parts are here! I have exchanged all the color vomit parts for black, it looks much better now! I am streamlining the framework around the gearbox. [WIP] Ariel Nomad Chassis V2.0
  6. Hi All, im currently in the throes of building a transverse fwd Lego moc. It’s in its early stages at the mo, it it has an ultra 4 speed gearbox, engine and differential all mounted transversely. Ive still to do a bit of work on the gear selector to make it a little easier, but here’s a small video of it in its current state if if you see bits of your Lego Design in this model, thanks for the inspiration
  7. Over the past couple of months, I have very much enjoyed many of the build threads that have taken place on Eurobricks. Of note was the excellent Hammerhead thread by @Didumos69 where the build kept improving in no small part because of the feedback given by so many. In this same vein, I wanted to embark on a less ambitious project. I'll try to update as often as I can. The project is a manual sports sedan in mid-scale. Features (at this point, in order of priority): Four wheel independent suspension Rear Wheel Drive Steering (Steering Wheel, HOG) Four Doors Flat 6 Opening Bonnet Opening Trunk Toddler Safe Transmission Current Progress Basically, the dimensions are set, and the suspension will not change much. Now I'm working on a transmission, which I have not decided if it will include. A manual gearbox puts the shifter a little too high for the scale, and this sequential will fit, but the changeover location is not great, either forward or rear. I'll update this again tonight, and see what I can figure out.
  8. Hi everyone ! Fasten your seat belts, because today I’m reaching the top speed of 420 km/h with this replica of the Bugatti Chiron 1:8 scale ! Around 4,000 parts, a weight of 3,7 Kg it takes me 2 years of study and design to achieved it. First of all, the pictures renders are slightly different than the video content. I made some modifications (for the roof...) The french manufacturer mixed-up performances and sophisticated design for an unique masterpiece with only few units sold for. The real challenge grabbed my attention so I decided to design it. For more informations about the car, please visit : The road map includes parameters following : 1:8 scale (using of 42056 tires) PFS features (powered by one Buwizz ®) 7 speeds Dual-Clutch Gearbox (DSG) Full 4WD transmission A good approximation of the bodywork Active spoiler feature A high rigid chassis Modular assembly This MOC includes a lot of characteristics as well basics manual ones that more complex ones. But first, here are some pictures below : Main features : Dimensions : 56 x 24 x 16 cm Weight : 3,7 Kg Power supply : 1 Buwizz with easy access Motorisation : 5 mottons Independent suspensions Manual ones : Openable doors with locking system, and openable hood by friction Steering HOG Unplugable motorisation (RC motors and steering ) for playability because the car is very heavy ! Openable trunk providing self-invented W16 engine details and Buwizz access Openable gloves box… …hidding a secret key witch unlock nice PFS features ! (insipired by the real top speed key) After a long build process, I’m very proud of the result. During development, I decided to put an additional feature to improve playability : a small lever to unplug motorisation. Indeed, the car is very heavy so you can’t move it easily. From wheels to the drive train and the 2 RC motors, the high gear reduction lock any movement. The secret key system create some kind of manual interaction allowing selection between 2 motorised features powered by one M motor : Spoiler extension (3 handling modes reachable) Adjustable suspension in height I’ve made a small video to illustrate spoiler mechanism : I found inspiration on Pipasseyoyo Bugatti Veyron system for height setting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaX5JLdBcyg. Irreversibility is performed by 4 worms screw, one for each axle. http://www.techlug.fr/Forum/topic10504.html I assume all similarity with @Didumos69 anti-roll bar and torsion bars system on the front axle. His advanced setup is very strong and reliable. https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/143038-moc-rugged-supercar-hammerhead-19-scale/ Remote ones : 5 motors : 2x RC motors / 2x M motors / 1x XL motor 7 speeds Dual-Clutch Gearbox (DSG) driven by XL motor Spoiler animate by 1 M motor and its own gearbox Suspension height controlled by the same M motor Steering by 1 motor or the HOG Full 4WD transmission driven by 2 RC motors Gearbox ratios : 1st : 1:9 2nd : 1:6 3rd : 1:5,4 4th : 1:4,5 5th : 1:3 6th : 1:2 7th : 1:1,8 R : 1:9 Gearbox inspiration : @Sheepo Rubicon Jeep shifting system :http://www.sheepo.es/2016/06/jeep-wrangler-rubicon-instructions.html @ibessonov gearbox : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-5565/ibessonov/sequential-rc-4-speed-dual-clutch-gearbox-with-pf-servo-motor/#comments Other pictures : Hell yeah Enjoy pictures in HQ : https://flic.kr/s/aHsm9s9M7C And here is the video : I hope you'll like it ! I'm making instruction video for the DSG gearbox, see you soon !
  9. Here is a sneak peak of one of my biggest projects up to date: Project started with a new type of a gearbox, which uses only two toothgears at any time in order to transfer power from motors efficient to the wheels: Here are a few specs of the model: Length cca. 80cm when folded Width cca. 30cm Height cca. 25cm Weight cca. 4,5 cm Dual rear live axles in the back independent suspension in front 4 electrically controlled gears + 1 additional electro-pneumatically controlled gear Working towing arm in the back capable of lifting weights of over 1kg Dynamic lights All functions controlled by 3 Sbricks Currently we have snow here and I can't shoot a video as planned I will post more info as soon as I manage to take more photos and a video.
  10. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. LXF-file of the full-featured version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. LXF-file of the chassis-only version (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).
  11. This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you.
  12. Hi ! Here is my WIP for the TC6 contest. It's a transport truck with a palfinger crane on the back. My model have 4 powered motors. I use a gearbox, so i have 7 functions motorised. - Selection of operating mode (M-motor) Driving : - Drive (XL-motor) - Steer (M-motor) - Outriggers (M-motor) Handling : - UP arm (XL-motor) - Rotate arm (M-motor) - Open arm (M-motor) + fake engine and suspension When the gearbox is in neutral, it is possible to drive in hand with HOG. And small render with LDD. Very far from the quality of Blackbird.
  13. To be honest this video was supposed to be my video releasing a new version of the RC Car with Sbrick along with some instructions. However, after a request for a build battle by LEGO Technic Mastermind, I have decided to postpone that video, but that will happen sometime in the future. In the meantime, I have made a rear-wheel drive sports car with an opening hood, small-cylinder V8 engine, functional headlights and taillights with PF LEDs, full independent suspension on all four wheels, a steered front axle with toe in (steered by a PF servo), and a four speed manual gearbox driven by 4 PF L-motors. To control all the powered functions, I have used two Sbricks, each connected to their own AAA battery box. I have not much else to say, just enjoy the video and photos below.
  14. The 2017 Ford GT is effectively a GTE race car converted to road use. After the 2016 race car won at Le Mans, exactly 50 years after Ford's historic win with the GT40, they had to build some road cars for homologation purposes. These road cars have a 3.5-litre twin-turbo Ecoboost V6 producing 647 horsepower, and an extreme amount of downforce from the active rear wing, diffusers, front splitter and those gigantic flying buttresses on the sides. The interior is sparse to reduce weight. The initial allocation sold for around $500,000 each, and Ford received more than 5,000 applications for 500 cars. Getting hold of a car is extremely difficult, and even those who are successful must wait for several years to receive their car. The recent incident of Ford announcing that they would sue John Cena for selling his car (supposedly for profit) and breaking the terms of the contract is a testament to how sought-after this car is. After several months of rather intermittent building, I've finally finished what turned out to be a prime example of how not to manage a project. Anyhow, at least the car is finished so I can get to work on building something I'll hopefully enjoy more... Initially, I planned for this to be a fast RC vehicle, using every single motor that I own. That meant three EV3 Large motors, a PF XL and a PF L for drive, an EV3 Medium for the gearbox and a PF M for the steering. However, as I chased the GT's distinctive styling, the car got heavier, more fragile and closer to the ground. In the end, the car would barely move in anything other than 1st gear, and it would scrape its bodywork on the ground. That's what happens when you change tack mid-way though a build. However, at least I think I can call this my best-looking car model to date. The car has a 4-speed sequential gearbox mounted behind the rear axle to save space and take advantage of the car's huge overhangs. There is no suspension to reduce complexity and because the model is a little too narrow for an independent driven axle to fit. All the motors in the drivetrain are hard-coupled together (yes, I know it's a little naughty, but the gear ratios are closely matched and the stresses put on them by this are probably dwarfed by the load caused by driving the car uphill). The steered axle is extremely simple with just a little return-to-center mechanism. This is in order to leave enough space for the PF battery box under the bonnet. There was just about enough room to have a convincing-looking cabin and seats, although it is considerably smaller (compared to the size of the whole car) than in real life. The rear wing is mounted on a scissor lift system to raise or lower it - there wasn't much space over the gearbox so I had to resort to using those ugly yellow beams. The doors are hinged about the A-pillars in order to give that characteristic motion, opening both upwards and outwards. An elastic band puts some tension on the mechanism and keeps the door either in the closed or in the open position. Styling-wise, the Ford GT is quite a challenging car, but at least it is more angular than curved. I did my best to focus on the characteristic features: the two big vents on the bonnet, the giant side vents and flying buttresses, the red circular brake lights and the carbon sill running along the length of the sides, part of which lifts up with the doors. I don't have that many pieces, so I had to do a few colour-mismatches, but I tried to keep to the grey theme. In the end, the car is easily-recogniseable as a GT, and that's what counts to me. Here is a video showing pictures of the car and a time-lapse of building. Unfortunately there's no driving footage (it would be pretty underwhelming anyway), but you can see the opening of the doors and raising of the rear wing. Music is composed by me as usual. My next build will be what this one failed to be: an incredibly fast RC car. This time, I'm going for minimal bodywork and no gearbox.
  15. Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-9788/OleJka/international-lonestar-truck/#comments VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
  16. Hi all, I present you my finished MOC of a 7-seater familycar with full functions: DETAILED PDF INSTRUCTIONS NOW AVAILABLE HERE, REBRICKABLE ENTRY HERE Separate PDF instructions for the roof implement available HERE, Rebrickable entry HERE I got the idea for building a family car about 3 years ago, when looking for a bigger car IRL for my own family. I was intrigued by the fancy seat folding mechanisms seen on these type of cars and wanted to reproduce that. For the model, I took inspiration from the Ford S-Max, which in my opinion combines good looks with all familycar requirements. It also comes in some fast versions, so it is fun to drive as well (unfortunately, IRL this car is well above my budget... Ah well...): It was clear to me early on that I would not be able to reproduce the exact looks (I'm not that good a scale model builder), but I wanted to stay as close to a real life car as I could in terms of mechanical features and looks on both interior and exterior. Meanwhile I wanted it to be structurally sound as well, based on modern "box structure" car frames. I built numerous iterations, starting in 1:8 scale, and later switching to 1:10 scale after having to much trouble with the larger scale when it comes to chassis stiffness. I have worked on this on and off for over 2 years, finally resulting in this build. The model has: 5+ R gearbox with linkage control: full suspension (independent McPherson with drive in front, dead trailing arm axle in the rear): 4-in-line transversally mounted fake engine in the front: rigid box structure chassis full interior with adjustable/folding seats on all rows: Folding the seats movie opening doors (with lock), boot and hood: parking brake (transmission lock) I wanted the maximum available interior space for this car (that's what a family car is all about after all...), so I set myself some goals: no supports from bottom to roof inside interior space: center console should be no wider than 5 studs: front wheel drive with front engine and gearbox: I wanted to create a rigid chassis, which would not bend and is self supporting. Because I wanted as much interior space as possible, the bottom structure is only 2-3 studs high. I couldn't fit vertical frames in there (as they are 5studs high), so in the end the roof became an active part of the structure of the chassis. It is very strong and stiff, when one wheel is lifted, there is hardly any bending in the chassis, instead the opposite wheel suspension is compressed: The whole car can be lifted safely with only one finger, from the midsection on the roof and by the B-pillars and C-pillars: Here are some more pics: For a full gallery and all WIP photo's, check my bricksafe folder. ============================ Below and further in this topic is all the WIP progress of making this car from July 1st onwards: Pic of current chassis WIP with parking break (back yellow knob), gearstick (in front of parking brake) and linkage (beneath and in front of gearstick), and start of gearbox mounting and front suspension (McPherson with drive from Sheepo's MPS)
  17. I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
  18. Hello, I present here a small agricultural tractor. The origin of this model is simple. It has an educational value. I used the subject to begin explaining to my son the basic principles to achieve his own models. The purpose was therefore to explain to him the following principles: - Steering rack, steering wheel. - How does a pendular axle work? - The U-joint how does it work? - Differential utility, - Realization of a simple transmission, - How to properly cross a transmission axle and a steering shaft, - What is a gearbox? ; simplified application in on / off mode for a function. There were finaly lots off things to explain. And the result is a nice tractor, playable simple to build. Here it is : About the design, we are on a MF235 base or something like that, (it's not really important;) Some other views: The rear linkage is three-point type, the PTO is in the central position, offset from the wheel axle for realizing a transmission axle with the gearbox wich is located under the steering wheel and allows to put the PTO on/off. Closer: The lifting is carried out by means of a simple mini-cylinder controlled by a crank located on the left side of the tractor: The hood is openable, of course, and we have a small engine L3 in direct drive on the differential of the rear wheels: We added some details, such as a pseudo oil gauge: Small zoom on the PTO control, under the steering wheel: The front axle is pendular (thank you to the neighbor who showed it in real life to my son), a view of the driving position, with the high exhaust pipe , in order to not 'Gaz' the farmer :) And finally the traditional view from below or we somewhat sacrificed the possibilities of crossing by installing the mini-actuator, but ...Who cares? In the end this Moc comes back to me rather well, it fulfilled its first role;) What else? Steph.
  19. Mr Smith LEGO Models

    RC Trabant 601

    This is a MOC. It is built in scale 1:10. Features: Front wheel drive (L motor) Steering (servo motor) 4 speed sequential gearbox (M motor for changing gears) All wheel working drum brakes (1 M motor for front and 1 for rear wheels) Full independent suspension Openable doors, bonet and trunk (which hides the small battery box) Video: Note that the car is very small (only 35 cm long) so it was quite hard to put all these functions inside. Also recognize in the video that I had to use a special solution with mounting of the differential - because of small scale. The normal solution would be too wide.
  20. Mr Smith LEGO Models

    RC Dodge Challenger SXT

    This is a MOC (my own creation). It is built in scale 1:10. I started this project one year ago and I wanted to make it as realistic as possible. The most complex part of this MOC is the 5+R sequential gearbox. It had to fit in very small space, so I had to use a new mechanism. It is driven by 4 motors: RC motor for drive, PF servo motor for steering, L motor for gearbox and M motor for lights. It has also realistic full independent suspension (I tried to replicate the real one) and doors with lock. Not like many lego cars, this has full interior with 5 seats. The front seats can move. The gearbox, steering motor, drive motor and two IR receivers are located above the front axle. The L motor for changing speeds is under the seats and the battery box is behind the rear axle. Video: Visit my youtube channel to see more of my creations!
  21. After shortening the travel required to shift gears in my improved paddle shifter unit for the Porsche (42056), I put some effort in trying to use the same concept - a lever knob gear driving a central knob gear - as a base for a 90 degree stepper. I was able to make a compact setup with the shift lever directly operating the shift axle that could in turn drive the clutches of a gearbox (the gearbox is not part of this unit). By using the knob gear inside the shift lever, the rotation speed of the central knob gear is twice the rotation speed of the shift lever itself. As a result each shift requires only a relatively short travel. The stoppers that catch the upper knob gear when shifting are the crucial part of this mechanism. They had to be reliable when it comes to catching the knob gear and needed to allow for a smooth return at the sane time. The whole setup relies on its interaction with the simple 90° limiter., which has been integrated in this unit. I'm very happy with the result. EDIT: I've been working on this a little more. I'wasn't completely satisfied about the return of the shift lever. It requires a lot of silicon power and I couldn't get it working with a new set of red silicon bands. Apparently the old ones (+/- 8 years old) are stronger. So I decided to skip the auto-return completely. The return is not needed for a full shift and a completely manual operation of the shift lever gives a nice feel. Returning the lever can actually be postponed until the next shift. This also allowed me to make an even more simple version of the stepper. In that simple version a different 90° limiter now operates directly on the lower knob gear. The limiter allows for some free movement of the orange paddles, but my guess is that this won't give any trouble when they operate the clutches of the gearbox. So all together I now have two versions: The compact stepper with separate 90° limiter and the simple stepper with limiter directly applied to the lower knob gear. Compact 90° stepper with separate limiter (LXF-file) Simple 90° stepper (LXF-file) Comments and (suggestions for) improvements are welcome!
  22. This is an attempt to start collecting gearbox designs in a single thread. To get started, feel free to add existing gearboxes, but please always add a reference to the original designer. Also be sure to add some information on designer motorized or manual sequential or direct special features like paddle shifters and number of gears, e.g. 5+R. That will also help me in making an index in the OP. Or even better, if it can not be classified along these lines from the entry here, I will not add it to the index. Thanks!
  23. Hi! Two years ago, I did a motorizable cherry picker for a contest on the french forum TechLUG. So, I used the comments I had, and I decided to : - Use a more little scale - Better proportions - I did a better cab. In the first MOC, it was too heavy because of the battery box inside it. - The first cherry picker was motorizable by a M motor ; this one is only motorized, more simple and efficient. To summararise : Better proportions (I hope ^^) Only motorized I use inverted gearboxes for : - Outriggers - Arm - Turn table And the manual functions : - The steering (of course) - Extension of the arm So, here's the result: The simplest function is the steering. But there is the L motor over it. So, I used three 16t gears to turn the wheels directly by their axle of rotation. And now, the gearbox. It's an inverted gearbox : the "out gears" turn in the opposite sense. So, when you invert the position of the driving ring, you invert the rotation of a function. Here are screenshots: The outriggers can up the truck: the wheels don't touch the floor. To finish, the arm. It has a triple deformable quadrilateral. I needed so much time to do it, but it's nice to see in action. And the video :
  24. Hi everybody. As I was into the shop this midday I saw this set: This makes me think, even if it is a star wars figure, that this pretty girl needs a bike. A BIG bike...just like Lara Croft.... So I decided to build something different this time. And here is the result of this evening build: it is the first sketch of what the model will be, as usual. About everything is to be compacted and redesign, but this give a good idea of what is incoming. Tomorrow I will by the SW figure st to match the scale of both of them. All the ergonomic aspect of the bike will be calibrate based on the TLC figure I let my imagination do this evening, Motoguzzi inspiration mixed with old BMW/Harley frame....All is in the mix. I am pretty happy with what I came out. This give me the base and a vision for the next of the build: The main ideas are: A fully detailed enormous engine fitted into a lightweight frame and all terrain wheels. At this point I do not have any idea if I will realize back suspension or not for this model. maybe just a suspension for the Saddle ? It will have a gearbox, already sketched and installed. The sequential lever is still a question actually. I think to due to it's size, it must be realized here. I do think that this model will take me a lot of time to finished. It is a quiet unusual theme for me. But I like the challenge that it represent for me. Any comment or advice are welcome. To be continued...
  25. Hi everyone, This will be my first project in a while, and my first project here. I want to try and make a 2WD (hopefully FWD, but RWD is fine if things get difficult), 4-cylinder car with a transversely mounted engine and gearbox assembly, and hopefully as a studless construction. I started mocking-up some of the gearbox in LDD (I know, not the best tool), and the results have not been too encouraging (space-wise). I haven't yet figured how to post photos, but I will when I do