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Found 107 results

  1. Hi legofans! The idea of the TC20 competition seems very cool to me! Several years ago I already made an attempt to build a remake of 8414. Now there is a great reason to build my second set of Lego techniques - 8207. My father gave it to me when I was 7. My joy knew no bounds. And now, after almost a quarter of a century, I want to repeat this set in a new form.
  2. If you're familiar with this one of a kind band I probably don't need to introduce this mini build to you... Added also the missiles that can be folded out for some serious 'moose action'. Intro to 19/2000 (minus logo, of course) A blatant crossover attempt - just for fun & giggles... Nothing huge or complex but still a fun little build for fans of the band. Free instructions available @ rebrickable.com Thanks & have fun!
  3. As inspired by pg5200's Buggy and Tamiya's Fighting Buggy, I've built this RC Buggy MOC. It's simple, fast and stable. Features: - Total no. of pieces is less than 400 - Around 1/15 to 1/16 scale - Requires a BuWizz 1.0/2.0 or CaDA or Mould King remote battery hub (SBrick should be possible by placing the hub on top of the battery box) - PF Servo Motor for the steering - RC Buggy Motor or BuWizz Motor for the rear driving - Gear ratio is 1.4 : 1 - Transverse damper rear suspension similar to Fighting Buggy - Rear camber angle is about +1 degree - Optional 4 LED lights (instruction not included) Instruction available at https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-76795/ Have fun and enjoy! It's not in Minifig scale, just give you an idea of its size. It has a +1 degree of rear camber angle.
  4. Rocky - 4WD Rock crawler buggy I would like to present to you 'Rocky', a rock crawler buggy with a body tilting angle that averages the angles made by the front and rear axles. My shot at a 42099 B-model. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. When I saw the first images of 42099, I noticed that the amount the body tilts sideways, is mostly defined by the rear axles angle, because that axle's suspension is the hardest - it carries the battery/control unit - and it's not pendular. That got me thinking; wouldn't it be nice to make a setup in which the body tilting angle averages the angles made by the front and rear axles? Just like how a Mars Rover averages it's body angle between it's rocker bogies - with a differential - but now sideways, not lengthwise. That way it should be possible to mimic the character of 4-link suspension, which is often seen in rock crawlers. So that was my objective with this B-model and the nice thing is that this model contains exactly the parts needed to build something like that. Axle articulation Here is the setup that interconnects front and rear axles. Like in rocker bogie suspension, you should regard the body as the differential house. The body tilting angle is defined by the two axles that point sideways. I used 4 gears in the differential itself to minimize slack in the system. There is some rotational slack of course, but this is even further reduced by 1:3 given the 20:60 gear ratio with the turntables. Center of gravity Besides the differential, the center module also houses the battery/control unit, because that unit includes the tilting sensor and I wanted the tilting sensor to show the tilting angle of the body. I also wanted to keep the center of gravity low and centered. However, putting the unit in this central spot did cause issues later on... The battery/control unit - not depicted here - plays an essential role in form-locking the whole center module. The battery/control unit can be slided out sideways after removing a few pins and parts. Spring suspension Besides axle articulation, I of course also wanted to include actual spring suspension, so I attached two main suspension arms to the turntables, one for the front axles and one for the rear axles. I suspended the main suspension arms with springs placed between the turntables and suspension arms. The springs are mounted differently to the front and rear suspension arms, giving the car a little more lift in the back, which adds to a nice inclination, or rake angle, of the whole model. The whole model nicely sinks into the spring suspension under its own weight up to about 40% percent of the overall spring travel. Drivetrain I wanted to have the most simple drive train possible, so the motors are directly attached to the frames holding the differentials. This is a crawler and with the new portal hubs, there is no need for any up or down gearing. The motors add to the stiffness of the main suspension arms. I also wanted to have a track width that is two studs wider than the stock 42099 build. After some playing around I found out I could use the new CV-joints the other way around to make that possible. Steering For steering I wanted minimal slack and double sided steering rods like in the stock 42099. I limited the steering angle to make sure the maximum angle the CV-joints make, does not cause any damage. I noticed the CV-joints start wobbling when the angle they make is too big. The steering rack assembly - as well as its back side counterpart - use a trick to minimize unintended movement (slack): The assemblies are 3 studs deep and incorporate 3L axles with end-stop. The end-stops are sticking out of the assemblies and make them slightly deeper than 3 studs. For this to work the end-stops need to slide along a smooth surface. This trick makes for a very nice fit with little play and still allows the assemblies to move very smoothly. Ground clearance To increase ground clearance I used a double wishbone setup, not suspended, to take advantage of the extra lift provided by the inclined wishbones. The rear wishbones are inclined more than the front wishbones, because there the CV-joints don't need to deal with the steering angle. At this stage I also added a set of minimalistic fenders ;-). Bodywork Finally, bodywork. This was the most challenging part for me. It needed to be removable, to provide access to the battery/control unit and I wanted it to live up to my foolproof standards. The whole model can be lifted by the roof or by the A(?)-pillars. At this stage I practically used all the pins that came with the set, so I had to do a lot of backtracking to get some pins available. I ended up using all pins, including the ones that came as spare parts. Interior RC don't have interior . When I wanted to test drive with a first bodywork attempt, I found out the hard way that I could not reach the on/off button of the battery/control unit. I had not taken that into account. Eventually I found a solution in making the roof openable, as if it were a hood, just by releasing two pins. The red 10L axle in the back can then be used to turn the controller on. After opening the roof, it can be removed easily, after which the sides of the body can be removed separately to access the battery/control unit. All together this has been a great experience. Especially the limited and pre-defined set of parts made it a real challenge. It forced me to revisit all constructions over and over again, and leave in only what is essential, without making concessions to my self-imposed building standards. I ended up using 828 of the 958 parts.
  5. Lego Tehnincs for me started with 42000 set. First step to own creations was small B-model modification Then I started to create my own creations. At that time I didn't even knew about other "sick" peaople and forums like this. So, as a first post, littlebit about what I have created until now. First creations was only from parts of 42000. First creation was some trike (or something like this) with font wheel drive Then there was (street)quad
  6. Hi, I think 42099 is a nice starter RC set of the PU line, so I set out to test what else can be brought out of all its parts. I'd like to share with you my set of 5 alternate builds from it. It has been a great exercise for experimenting with different options for suspensions, drivetrains and bodyworks, testing the versatility of this medium-sized set. In the end, all of the alternate models came out with quite different shapes, suspension techniques and motor/gearing setups, and I think I even managed to use those large turntables in some interesting ways. During my builds, I found that the set has a good array of structural elements, of course good drivetrain components, but is a bit limited on gears, axles and body panels. Nevertheless, once you get used to it, more configurations are possible than you would think :) Here are my builds in chronological order. Much more design details and images of each are accessible on the link behind each name. Here I shortly summarize the features and the differentiating factors of them.1) JeepyThis model was inspired by the release of the Jeep Wrangler set and its pendular suspension using the small turntables. - Pendular suspension using large turntables, both front and rear- 4WD slow drivetrain for good climbing, separate front and rear drive- Jeep-like exterior, focusing on the shape of the hood and the grill, plus the roll-cage 2) BuggyInspired by the release of the RC Buggy set, with this model the goal was to test how fast the the two XL motors can be geared up, along with creating a slick bodywork. - Independent long travel suspension with longer swing-arms both front and rear, high ground clearance- Fast up-geared rear wheel drive, independent for left and right wheel without differential- Positive caster angle at the front axle- Light-weight curvy bodywork, custom built seat 3) BeastyThis model aimed to test the possibility of building a live axle rear suspension using the large turntable, along with coupled motors for a stronger drivetrain. - Live axle rear suspension with push-rods for extreme articulation, independent front suspension- 4WD drivetrain with coupled motors driving both front and rear axles, adjustable gearing- Rough exterior, minimalistic interior 4) QuadroThe goal of this model was to build something other than a car, and to experiment with an unconventional motor setup. - Independent front suspension with positive caster angle, trailing arm rear suspension- V-engine built out of the joined drive motors, rear wheel drive- Functional steering rod- Chubby bulldog-like quad shape, bullbar 5) TrophyWith this model, I wanted to push the live axle possibilities further, creating long soft travel using only the short springs, and to find a sweet-spot in the up-gearing of the motors. At the same time aiming to create a larger-looking bodywork with the limited array of panels. - Long soft travel live axle rear suspension, independent front suspension- Rear wheel drive with motors built into the rear axle, independent left and right drivetrain without differential, faster gearing- Trophy-truck like exterior with curved front and long tail, imitated spare wheel All models can be controlled with the stock Control+ App, and the batteries can either be directly accessed from the bottom, or can be removed after detaching a few panels. All models are available separately or in a 5-in-1 pack on Rebrickable. I hope this makes you value your 42099 sets even more :) Let me know what you think!
  7. Small Dune Buggy - Lego Mini CLAAS XERION 42102 Alternative Build Free Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-71797/makushima/small-dune-buggy-42102 Lego Mini CLAAS XERION 42102 Alternative Build - MOC - Small Dune Buggy (Free Building Instructions) by makushima
  8. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  9. Hi, I'd like to share my second C model for 42099, inspired by the recently released off-road buggy. The design goals were 1) faster speed 2) responsive and long suspension travel 3) lightweight and curved shape.The wheel hubs and the differentials perform down-gearing, so I decided to apply 3x up-gearing by a ratio of 5:3 and skip the differential to make it faster than the original. Since the differentials are not used, the small gears can be used for up-gearing with perpendicular meshing of gears, which is smoother than the parallel meshing of the 20 and 12-tooth gears. I decided to use rear wheel drive only, one motor driving each rear wheel. I managed to compact the drive-train with the following setup: For suspension, I wanted a long travel and a wider wheel base, so I tried to increase the length of the swing-arms. The rear suspension seemed simple with 7L beams, but the front suspension was more difficult, as I had to increase the length of the 6L steering arms in the set by 1 stud, so I had to apply some tricky workarounds. Furthermore, I wanted a lightweight axle with a positive caster angle, with the steering motor integrated closely to the axle. The result has more than 6 studs of ground clearance and 3 studs of travel and is quite responsive: The battery is integrated into the middle of the model to distribute the weight between the two axles, and to provide easy access from the bottom. The whole base looks like this: The bodywork proved to be the most difficult to get right, since the panels available in the model are hard to use to get the light-weight frame-like body that I wanted. After taking some inspiration from the shape of Madoca's Blue Lightning buggy, I got the hang of using the arched pieces and the flexible hoses to build the curves, and used some of the panels to finish the body with a simple roof and hood. The roof is attached very strongly to the base, so the car can be lifted by it.As the small grey seats in the original just didn't feel like a match to the overall shape and scale of the model, I gave building a custom seat a try. Luckily, the few available red pieces were just enough to make a black seat with two red stripes :) I think it adds a lot to the overall look of the model.Here are a few more pics: Finally, here's a video of it in action: Building instructions available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
  10. During a break from building agricultural machinery, I created a cute Buggy from 42122 set :D I had to buy this kit. I knew very well that the new tires were too small for a tractor, but they are perfect for my other WIP model, which has been on the shelf for almost a year. I did not follow a specific buggy model. I was inspired by various vehicles, their proportions and appearance to create my version. I associate it most with desert vechicles. The functions that have been added: HOG control and independent rear suspension, which works nice and soft. Unfortunately, the attempt to use the turntable to create the front suspension failed. This idea changed the appearance of the vehicle a lot, so I gave it up with that. I used 577 items out of 665 available in the set. My first building instruction is also available at: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-61843/M_longer/42122-buggy/ https://sellfy.com/m1longer/p/42122-buggy/ Hope you like the model :)
  11. janssnet

    Brushless Buggy

    This buggy contains a 3600KV brushless motor (2838). It has a pinion made from a LEGO axle and it runs a seriously good working drive-train. Together with the new 42109 differential and a (new?) 2D suspension method it turns out to be a fun car to drive. Please watch a video here. Especially the suspensions are worth having a look. More and more I'm using custom springs to create all sort of applications. Useful and useless. Almost useless is the spring-lock to open the hood. Very useful are the long front springs and the two-dimensional rear springs. Please let me know your comments. No building instructions available yet. If there is a need, let me know.
  12. I put together a super-fast mini rc chassis. It has buggy motor geared up 20:16 for drive, and servo for steering. Lipo and v2 receiver provide power. It goes a measured 17.5 KPH (11 mph). So I was wondering if anyone built anything faster. Video:
  13. Quite possibly the most fun and outdoorsy Technic set since the Supersonic RC.
  14. MikeTwo9398

    Baja Buggy

    Hi everybody, I always wanted to make Madoca1977’s Baja Trophy Truck or something similar…. Well here’s my result. Now here you can see it in action…. I wanted to use buggy motors to drive the Baja buggy. (Unfortunately I only have 1 Lego Buggy motor, but for this model I bought 2 buggy motors from CADA). The front of the Baja Trophy Truck's chassis is the same as Madoca. The rear wheel drive is my own design. This also applies to the seats and cabin. The cabin is not as strong as Madoca's and also lacks the roll cage. I wanted to see if this model has a bit of speed and agility. As it turns out, I can barely drive the model because it is so fast. It drives on all kinds of terrain. The buggy drives fine with the normal 1.2 volt rechargeable batteries. But driving through the grass is a bit difficult. I once read a topic on this forum about lifepo4 batteries and thought let's give it a try. And to my surprise, it really drives everywhere like crazy. Topic "do-you-use-12v-or-15v-batteries" The buggy has : 1 Servo motor for steering 2 Buggy motors for driving (1 on each rear wheel) SBrick for control Battery box with 3x LiFePo4 and 3x dummy batteries (Work also fine with normal (reachable) batteries but has not much speed when driving through grass or very rough terrain) Building Instructions Nowadays I want to be able to rebuild my own models when I break them down, so I make a digital copy of the model. I always did this in LDD but since it is no longer updated I switched to Stud.io. It took some searching but now I am able to build the models and making the instructions is also easy. Here are some examples Since Madoca has provided his Baja Trophy Truck with free instructions, I want to share my Baja Buggy's instructions with everyone for free. Here you can find the Building Instructions and Studio file I'm not good at designing beautiful bodywork, but building this Baja Buggy has given me hours of building fun. Making the instruction toke me a lot of evening hours, but I like the result. Sorry for the experienced builders, the instructions are step by step as Lego does nowadays, this means that there are a total of 663 steps (about 500 pages). It is certainly not a professional design, there are some steps in the Studio file that do not fit completely, but it fits perfectly when building. Some work in progress Compare Here are some pictures showing the model compared to the famous 8466 4x4 Off-Roader and the 42110: Land Rover Defender. And a few renders of the Baja Buggy More pictures can be found here.
  15. The American Club Racing (ACR) model was introduced in 1999, starting with the Viper GTS (Phase SR II). Exclusive 1 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This model had suspension and engine enhancements focused on maximizing performance in road racing and autocross environments. Horsepower was bumped to 460 hp (370 kW) in these models, while torque increased to 500 lb·ft (678 N·m). Weight was reduced by over 50 pounds (23 kg) by stripping the interior and removing other non-essential items such as the fog lamps (replacing them with brake ducts). Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to its heritage, I've left this beast without bells and whistles in the name of speed.It sport a front clam shell hood, opening rear trunk, and spring back doors. The real catch here is in the speed and options. Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This Viper packs 2x Buwizz 2.0 (with Ludicrous mode) that power this monster directly to 2x Buggy motors. The gearing is accessible and can be swapped for a higher or lower gear in minutes. Ratios avail: 1:1 and 1:1.7. This model also has many build options: 1. 1 or 2 buwizz / 1 or 2 Lipo / 1 or 2 Sbrick 2. 2 Buggy motor or 2 XL motor 3. Fully manual car (just remove the electronics 4. Swap out the engine on the fly for a new one! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Viper also has a rake to it that I also replicated. 1 stud off the ground at the front, 2.5 studs at the rear. Dodge Viper ACR- open hood by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Its been a pleasure playing with this car OUTDOORS (don't even think of play indoors, I smashed it over 10 times) and I hope you guys enjoy the video! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR - Overlay by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmeHa4rL Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Crash compilation: Dodge Viper - Crashes by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  16. Hello All. This is my newest little creation. Intended to rip it up indoors on flat floors, which it does. Powered by one (off-brand) buggy motor and a buwizz 2.0. Has 4wd with open differentials front and rear, and solid axles front and rear. The lack of suspension allows for a robust chassis which handles the power delivery with no drama. Front tie rods can disconnect if you run into something but is otherwise very reliable, and fun to drive.
  17. It's time for a new MOC. This time it's a buggy. It is designed to be decently fast (considering it uses only two L motors) It features Full suspension. The rear axle is a live axle, and the front features double wishbone with caster angle. Sadly I don't have any Real life pictures... But I made a video. You can also buy the instructions on Rebrickable. I made them with stud.io. I added the cable in the instructions. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50170/Toucanx/fbb-fast-black-buggy/#comments More pictures can be found on Bricksafe.
  18. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  19. It's about a time, since I've been ended my dark ages and now it looks like my way will be rather smaller attempts and "projects", then bigger and more sophisticated ones. My older builds had their own topics here and here, but I don't think that all of my next builds will be suitable for separate topics, so I decided to make this one, where I have intention to add all of my publishable builds. And for the beginning, here is my wip small manual buggy. Buggies are favourite Technic builds, there are many of them in all sizes, shapes and qualities. This one is intended to be small and simple, all manualy working. Now it has front and rear suspesion, openable cabin, steering and rear wheels conected to fake engine. I'd like to improve rear axle suspension, add HOG and steering wheel and some details here and there. And finaly adjust color scheme, although I'm not very disturbed with this clor vomit in this type of vehicle.
  20. Hogwartus

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  21. I tried to build my own alternative model from set 42061 several times in past but all my attempts failed. When I was decided to sell this set I got idea to give it last try. My initial goal was to build some kind of buggy. After few hours I built working steering and in-line fake engine driven by rear wheels. Building car out of parts from set 42061 was painful (it has pretty bad assortment of parts) and I am not totally sutisfied with look of buggy so I call it "Ugly Buggy". By the way it fits to TC18 contest but I think it is too simple to submit it there. So I use it for TLCB Lock-Down Competition instead. When I finished building buggy I decided to build more - to build something easier. So helicopter was the best choice. I took little bit of inspiration from @BusterHaus - I like how he used gear rack for tail of his helicopter. My helicopter has both rotors connected by gears so you can spin them together by turning gear on bottom of helicopter. This is also my second entry to TLCB Lock-Down Competition. Building instructions for both alternative models are available at buildinst.cz Any comments are welcomed.
  22. After long pause, I sat down today to play around with LDD. Oddly the inspiration came from here - see below. This will be a concept UTV for King Of Hammers, first design is ready, I need to build IRL and test. Considering the Corona situation, it might remain digital for a while though, as I might not have all the necessary parts on stock. 323 pcs so far. Nothing special in terms of functions: suspension, HOG steering, differential with fake engine (easy pop-on/off), fake automatic transmission. The latter is just sume pulley wheels and gears rotating along with the cranckshaft, round and bulky, just like a real hydraulic one. In real model, I will fit the tire on the inner wedges of the rim, thus it will get a bit higher (~58 mm) but narrower (~22 mm) profile.
  23. Buggy only from parts of 42077 set looking like Baja Class One Unlimited Buggy or Dakar SSV https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-37203/klimax/trophy-buggy-42077-c-model-baja-class-one-unlimited-buggy-or-dakar-ssv https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-39160/klimax/trophy-buggy-rc-version-42077-c-model-baja-class-one-unlimited-buggy-or-dakar-ssv more photos for all 4 versions here >> https://bricksafe.com/pages/klimax/trophy-truck-buggy-from-42077 using 84% of parts from 42077 dimensions 40x21x16cm 2 main objectives: 1) maximalize suspension travel 2) prepare RC version manual HOG version: * HOG front wheel steering * front suspension, axle with positive caster * rear suspension ***v1 linked wheels + 6-piston engine connected to rear axle via loom bands ***v2 independent suspension for left and right wheel, dummy engine without movement 2 RC versions: * bigger tyres *** 54120 Tyre 94.8 x 44 R Balloon *** 92912 Tyre 94.3 x 38 R * servo motor for steering * enough space for any kind of battery on co-driver's seat *** 8881 Power Functions Battery Box *** 88000 Power Functions AAA Battery Box *** 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box *** Buwizz *** CaDa * 58123 Electric Power Functions IR Receiver + 58122 Electric Power Functions IR Remote Control (where it makes sense, or sBrick) * motors for propulsion: *** 2x 99499 Electric Power Functions Large Motor *** 42908 Electric RC Race Buggy Motor (+ 32270 Technic Gear 12 Tooth Double Bevel needed!) * dummy engine without movement Version with 2L motors and BuWizz weights 1121g Any combination of power and motor configuration is working my other models from 42077 set (can be found on rebrickable and bricksafe):
  24. Everything started with idea to build KTM AX. I didn't built it, but it led to something else. This was first front suspension setup, in which I tried to replicate KTM AX front part. At that time I was still building KTM AX Then I abondoned that idea, but returned later (more than a year) with bigger, more rigid version In background there is first geometry concept. And then I just built some king of back part fro that front, also including all motors and control+ from 42099 It goes pretty good with this gearing, even not skipping gears. Video maybe will be later.
  25. johnnym

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    Hi there, I'd like to present a MOC I've been working on from time to time since a few months: It's a small RC buggy, something I'm missing from Lego: Pictures show the V2 model. An interactive 360° view of the V1 model (with different rear axle) is available here: http://pub.clusterd.net/lego/technic/mocs/buggy/ Steering: PF Servo motor Propulsion: PF L motor (geared up 28z => 20z => 12z which is good enough to drive on office carpet and short distances on thicker carpets with fresh batteries, it works great on smooth surfaces; 36z => 12z => 12z also works, but requires more power and works best on a smooth surface; RWD) I initially used it with a AAA battery box and V2 IR receiver (not shown in the V2 pictures above, where it will be fixed to the rear spoiler, the V1 model had it at a slightly different location), but the AA battery box also fits - though it looks not as good due to different mount points, and it will also be heavier then. I assume it will also work with the LiPo box and SBrick and I can - since a few weeks - confirm that it also works with a BuWizz, but then it's more something for outdoor areas, as it gets pretty quick in fast and ludicrous modes. I created the main chassis of the V1 model of this buggy during a long evening/night and added most of the body parts the following day or days, don't remember exactly. The stickers are from the 8048 set and IMO fit the buggy theme great. Steering is also from 8048. It's fun to drive around and it can also take some hits. I took inspiration (mainly for the rear shock mounting and general setup) and motivation (I wanted to have something about as small as this) mainly from this video on YT: ...and some other videos about small RC buggies. The creator's buggy itself is also roughly based on the MOC (video and instructions for V1 model) of someone else. Instead of (re)building this one, I created my own - also because I didn't have a Buggy motor at that time. I also created a V3 model. It's slightly bigger, has front lights (using PF LEDs) and uses bigger wheels but shows some deficiencies of the design: The rear axle tends to tear itself apart in this model on rough surfaces, making the gears slip. I assume this is due to the bigger wheels used in the V3 model. I use some additional axles with stop and bushes now to hold the rear axle together for a longer time. I assume this maybe could be fixed by using a frame around the two axle holes that shouldn't move apart. When doing tight turns the V3 also lifts one of the front wheels - the one on the same side as the gear that sits on the drive axle. If someone has a good explanation for this, I'd be grateful. I suspect the softer shocks compared to V2.