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Found 89 results

  1. Rocky - 4WD Rock crawler buggy I would like to present to you 'Rocky', a rock crawler buggy with a body tilting angle that averages the angles made by the front and rear axles. My shot at a 42099 B-model. When I saw the first images of 42099, I noticed that the amount the body tilts sideways, is mostly defined by the rear axles angle, because that axle's suspension is the hardest - it carries the battery/control unit - and it's not pendular. That got me thinking; wouldn't it be nice to make a setup in which the body tilting angle averages the angles made by the front and rear axles? Just like how a Mars Rover averages it's body angle between it's rocker bogies - with a differential - but now sideways, not lengthwise. That way it should be possible to mimic the character of 4-link suspension, which is often seen in rock crawlers. So that was my objective with this B-model and the nice thing is that this model contains exactly the parts needed to build something like that. Axle articulation Here is the setup that interconnects front and rear axles. Like in rocker bogie suspension, you should regard the body as the differential house. The body tilting angle is defined by the two axles that point sideways. I used 4 gears in the differential itself to minimize slack in the system. There is some rotational slack of course, but this is even further reduced by 1:3 given the 20:60 gear ratio with the turntables. Center of gravity Besides the differential, the center module also houses the battery/control unit, because that unit includes the tilting sensor and I wanted the tilting sensor to show the tilting angle of the body. I also wanted to keep the center of gravity low and centered. However, putting the unit in this central spot did cause issues later on... The battery/control unit - not depicted here - plays an essential role in form-locking the whole center module. The battery/control unit can be slided out sideways after removing a few pins and parts. Spring suspension Besides axle articulation, I of course also wanted to include actual spring suspension, so I attached two main suspension arms to the turntables, one for the front axles and one for the rear axles. I suspended the main suspension arms with springs placed between the turntables and suspension arms. The springs are mounted differently to the front and rear suspension arms, giving the car a little more lift in the back, which adds to a nice inclination, or rake angle, of the whole model. The whole model nicely sinks into the spring suspension under its own weight up to about 40% percent of the overall spring travel. Drivetrain I wanted to have the most simple drive train possible, so the motors are directly attached to the frames holding the differentials. This is a crawler and with the new portal hubs, there is no need for any up or down gearing. The motors add to the stiffness of the main suspension arms. I also wanted to have a track width that is two studs wider than the stock 42099 build. After some playing around I found out I could use the new CV-joints the other way around to make that possible. Steering For steering I wanted minimal slack and double sided steering rods like in the stock 42099. I limited the steering angle to make sure the maximum angle the CV-joints make, does not cause any damage. I noticed the CV-joints start wobbling when the angle they make is too big. The steering rack assembly - as well as its back side counterpart - use a trick to minimize unintended movement (slack): The assemblies are 3 studs deep and incorporate 3L axles with end-stop. The end-stops are sticking out of the assemblies and make them slightly deeper than 3 studs. For this to work the end-stops need to slide along a smooth surface. This trick makes for a very nice fit with little play and still allows the assemblies to move very smoothly. Ground clearance To increase ground clearance I used a double wishbone setup, not suspended, to take advantage of the extra lift provided by the inclined wishbones. The rear wishbones are inclined more than the front wishbones, because there the CV-joints don't need to deal with the steering angle. At this stage I also added a set of minimalistic fenders ;-). Bodywork Finally, bodywork. This was the most challenging part for me. It needed to be removable, to provide access to the battery/control unit and I wanted it to live up to my foolproof standards. The whole model can be lifted by the roof or by the A(?)-pillars. At this stage I practically used all the pins that came with the set, so I had to do a lot of backtracking to get some pins available. I ended up using all pins, including the ones that came as spare parts. Interior RC don't have interior . When I wanted to test drive with a first bodywork attempt, I found out the hard way that I could not reach the on/off button of the battery/control unit. I had not taken that into account. Eventually I found a solution in making the roof openable, as if it were a hood, just by releasing two pins. The red 10L axle in the back can then be used to turn the controller on. After opening the roof, it can be removed easily, after which the sides of the body can be removed separately to access the battery/control unit. All together this has been a great experience. Especially the limited and pre-defined set of parts made it a real challenge. It forced me to revisit all constructions over and over again, and leave in only what is essential, without making concessions to my self-imposed building standards. I ended up using 828 of the 958 parts.
  2. johnnym

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    Hi there, I'd like to present a MOC I've been working on from time to time since a few months: It's a small RC buggy, something I'm missing from Lego. Pictures show the V2 model. An interactive 360° view of the V1 model (with different rear axle) is available here: http://pub.clusterd.net/lego/technic/mocs/buggy/ Steering: PF Servo motor Propulsion: PF L motor (geared up 28z => 20z => 12z which is good enough to drive on office carpet and short distances on thicker carpets with fresh batteries, it works great on smooth surfaces; 36z => 12z => 12z also works, but requires more power and works best on a smooth surface; RWD) I initially used it with a AAA battery box and V2 IR receiver (not shown in the V2 pictures above, where it will be fixed to the rear spoiler, the V1 model had it at a slightly different location), but the AA battery box also fits - though it looks not as good due to different mount points, and it will also be heavier then. I assume it will also work with the LiPo box and SBrick and I can - since a few weeks - confirm that it also works with a BuWizz, but then it's more something for outdoor areas, as it gets pretty quick in fast and ludicrous modes. I created the main chassis of the V1 model of this buggy during a long evening/night and added most of the body parts the following day or days, don't remember exactly. The stickers are from the 8048 set and IMO fit the buggy theme great. Steering is also from 8048. It's fun to drive around and it can also take some hits. I took inspiration (mainly for the rear shock mounting and general setup) and motivation (I wanted to have something about as small as this) mainly from this video on YT: ...and some other videos about small RC buggies. The creator's buggy itself is also roughly based on the MOC (video and instructions for V1 model) of someone else. Instead of (re)building this one, I created my own - also because I didn't have a Buggy motor at that time. I also created a V3 model. It's slightly bigger, has front lights (using PF LEDs) and uses bigger wheels but shows some deficiencies of the design: The rear axle tends to tear itself apart in this model on rough surfaces, making the gears slip. I assume this is due to the bigger wheels used in the V3 model. I use some additional axles with stop and bushes now to hold the rear axle together for a longer time. I assume this maybe could be fixed by using a frame around the two axle holes that shouldn't move apart. When doing tight turns the V3 also lifts one of the front wheels - the one on the same side as the gear that sits on the drive axle. If someone has a good explanation for this, I'd be grateful. I suspect the softer shocks compared to V2.
  3. Hogwartus

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  4. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  5. The American Club Racing (ACR) model was introduced in 1999, starting with the Viper GTS (Phase SR II). Exclusive 1 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This model had suspension and engine enhancements focused on maximizing performance in road racing and autocross environments. Horsepower was bumped to 460 hp (370 kW) in these models, while torque increased to 500 lb·ft (678 N·m). Weight was reduced by over 50 pounds (23 kg) by stripping the interior and removing other non-essential items such as the fog lamps (replacing them with brake ducts). Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to its heritage, I've left this beast without bells and whistles in the name of speed.It sport a front clam shell hood, opening rear trunk, and spring back doors. The real catch here is in the speed and options. Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This Viper packs 2x Buwizz 2.0 (with Ludicrous mode) that power this monster directly to 2x Buggy motors. The gearing is accessible and can be swapped for a higher or lower gear in minutes. Ratios avail: 1:1 and 1:1.7. This model also has many build options: 1. 1 or 2 buwizz / 1 or 2 Lipo / 1 or 2 Sbrick 2. 2 Buggy motor or 2 XL motor 3. Fully manual car (just remove the electronics 4. Swap out the engine on the fly for a new one! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Viper also has a rake to it that I also replicated. 1 stud off the ground at the front, 2.5 studs at the rear. Dodge Viper ACR- open hood by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Its been a pleasure playing with this car OUTDOORS (don't even think of play indoors, I smashed it over 10 times) and I hope you guys enjoy the video! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR - Overlay by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmeHa4rL Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Crash compilation: Dodge Viper - Crashes by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  6. It's about a time, since I've been ended my dark ages and now it looks like my way will be rather smaller attempts and "projects", then bigger and more sophisticated ones. My older builds had their own topics here and here, but I don't think that all of my next builds will be suitable for separate topics, so I decided to make this one, where I have intention to add all of my publishable builds. And for the beginning, here is my wip small manual buggy. Buggies are favourite Technic builds, there are many of them in all sizes, shapes and qualities. This one is intended to be small and simple, all manualy working. Now it has front and rear suspesion, openable cabin, steering and rear wheels conected to fake engine. I'd like to improve rear axle suspension, add HOG and steering wheel and some details here and there. And finaly adjust color scheme, although I'm not very disturbed with this clor vomit in this type of vehicle.
  7. This is what happens when you have a dune buggy but want it to be a salt flat racer or even a dragster. Very fast and very durable, performs astonishing wheelies and looks as scary as a golden-toothed-and-cheap-sunglasses-skull-adorned racer could get. 42046 C-Model, uses 100% of the original set's parts and has those notable features: ► pull-back motor ► very fake V8 and exhausts behind the cockpit ► steering wheel, speedometer and floodlights + rear lights ► reinforced frame and balancing enabling it to perform wheelies (apologies for the photo quality, those were the best results I could get) EDIT: Here's the LDD file if someone's interested. Couldn't assemble the whole thing because of the usual LDD shenanigans, but it's kinda straightforward when you go those three pics. That orange bulky thing is, of course, an equivalent of the pull-back motor not included in LDD - shoutout to marco9999 for the design. http://bricksafe.com/files/Immo/42046_C_Model_Draggy.lxf
  8. 1980SomethingSpaceGuy

    [MOC] Red Buggy

    Hello there! I used to have lots of bricks when I was a kid, but I left them at my parent's when I moved. Now that I have kids and nephews, I'm happy they can enjoy these when visiting their grandparents. On the other hand, that left me with very few stuff to build from. Now, when I want to build something new, I usually spot a set with interesting parts and start from there. The goal here was to build a fully suspended car with steering, differential and motor. The build had to be tough enough so my youngest (under 2 y.o.) could play with it. I bought set 42075 because it had a differential and nice panels and started from there. I lacked cardans, so the transmission has to go through a cascade of gears, making the rear train a bit bulky, but it works! I had a couple of spare motorcycle coils left from a 42036 set, which themed the build to a buggy. There, that's all for my first post here. Cheers!
  9. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  10. Hello to all technic fans. Since I got a BuWizz, I always wanted to make a buggy car. And here is the result. My concept buggy from KTM The inspiration for the design came from the original concept of KTM AX buggy. It is not the same look and design, it was only ispiration for my build. It is driven by 2 PF L motors geared up with 20 to 12 gears. It is rear drive with diferential. Steering is with 1 PF servo motor. Lights are 2 pair of PF LED ligts. It is fully independent suspension. I also made a lifting roof for easier access to the BuWizz box for charging and switching. Due to its low weight it is very agile and fast. It is realy fun to drive with this litle buggy. Realy big thanx goes to BuWizz for this briliant magic box, and also respect to mister imurvai for his briliant solution for game controler. And the video. Thanx for reading and watching. Best regards, Valter
  11. Lego Tehnincs for me started with 42000 set. First step to own creations was small B-model modification Then I started to create my own creations. At that time I didn't even knew about other "sick" peaople and forums like this. So, as a first post, littlebit about what I have created until now. First creations was only from parts of 42000. First creation was some trike (or something like this) with font wheel drive Then there was (street)quad
  12. Let me introduce you my latest alternative model - Dune Buggy built out of set 42075 (First Responder). This buggy is my tribute to two special sets: 8829 (my very first LEGO set) and 8048 (the set that definitely ended my dark age). It features front axle steering, rear axle suspension, V2 fake engine and opening cab cage same as original models. I wanted to add differential but it would make engine block too high so it has just "one wheel drive". I hope you will like and any comments are welcome.
  13. Hello All! It is winter time, so I am bit more busy on Legoing. After seeing, that @Didumos69 started his 4x4 buggy project, I looked into a bit deeper the Ultra 4 racing, and the rigs been driven in this extreme events. Finally the video, what I linked to his topic, triggered the work on another MOC: the Ultra 4 buggy. Here is another video to see the interesting bits of independent suspension system on this beast: Still, I might end up with IFS (independent front suspension) and solid axle with torque bar for the rear, but the body is heavily inspired by the Lasernut buggy. Parameters: 2x L motors 1x servo motor AAA battery box - in order to be replace ability with BuWizz in case IR control Let's look at into the progress a bit, maybe it is interesting to read. I started on 28. november with LDD model. To set the proportions, and the body ideas, I usually place the essential parts free in space first. Check the real inspiration thing and the very first sketch: After that I added the electronic parts, to check the necessary minimum space. (Unfortunately Stud.io has corrupt models, so some cover parts of the motors are just not present.) At this stage, I built the front axle, to see how can I integrate the steering. The answer is: massive fail. So back to drawing table, I deleted the 5x7 frame, and started to figure out, how to connect the needed fixation points for swingarms, servo. Due to this, the model gets more complex than I thought, but buildability is always first! I recommend to check meanwhile IRL building too, or at least stop by and thinking about how to add the related parts. I was hopeing for a simple MOC, but I ended up already a pretty complex assembly, so I made each step with double check. Later on, I will try to add groups in LDD to represent the buildability order too. So far the front module with steering and IFS is ready, the middle module is almost done, I am wondering about interchangable solid axle or independent solution for the rear - not sure yet. Also the color is to be decided yet, as the springs type as well (soft or hard). I think if soft ones will be OK, than I go for white body, as it presents the "rollcage" better. In case the yellow hard shock absorbers will be needed, of course the only choice is: full MEAN black body. This picture shows the advantage of the white body, and also a comparison for tyre types: 3740 on the left, 45982 on the right, both on 56908 wheels. So far 407 parts, and I guess it is about 70-75% ready. I need to figure out how to fix the roof, and create a solid, but easily disconnectable rear module. Necessary parts are ordered, so real build pics might come in couple weeks first. And how is the road presence? I guess it will be pretty much like a punch in the face. p.s.: Yet another WIP, I hope for long winter nights, to finish at least some of my unfinished projects...
  14. I've made some improvements to the B-model of the Rally Car set (42077), the sand buggy. Most notably they make the model much more sturdy, which could be useful for adding a motor/ RC functions. Downloadable instructions are included, so it should be easy for you to implement those changes. If you have any questions, just let me know. Check out the article and download on my blog: https://myleniumsbrickcorner.wordpress.com/2018/07/06/rigid-green-and-black-42077-b-model-moc/ Here's a preview of the instruction booklet cover:
  15. Greetings, ladies and gentlemen! I'm glad to introduce you a modification of @Didumos69 Greyhound buggy Yeah, "Mad Max" inspired vehicle again First idea was just "increase durability and add some crawler abilities", but result exceed all my expectations. Adding planetary gear reduction 4:1 to all wheels increase offroad capabilities to sky high (keeping in mind perfectly working suspension of original) And final step - I decide to prepare for summer offroad Lego event in Moscow and for future festival, so I reworked exterior in postapocalyptic style. Other photos Here is LDD model of front hub with planetary gear reduction I used in my modification. Rear hub is done similarly, except for black connectors to suspension arms and without U-joint. Bonus: video from "King of the Hammers" race event in Moscow and photo from "Summer Brick" Lego festival in Taganrog, Russia Thanks to @Didumos69 for his amazing buggy and instructions, and also to @Shurik & @VerSen for cool photos! Hope you like this rusty piece of metal!
  16. I mainly build Technic C-Models, but I also enjoy Creator alternatives, so here's what I built out of set 5763. In the photo, hot-rodder sigfig is added for scale and reference). Features: ► minifig scale (with adjustable steering wheel) ► openable and adjustable canopy-cage with roll bar ► rear suspension (individual for each wheel) ► details such as engine with radiator and twin turbo, lights, steering wheel, twin exhaust and rear view mirrors Browsing through OLX (online marketplace fo classified ads) I found old (2011), used 5763 for a price of a new small, ~50 piece set. I liked how the set contained big wheels and offered possibility to build suspension, so I bought it right away. Only one super-cheap plate was missing, so it was a nice deal. The MOC Alternative uses almost every part from the set. As you can see, the build came out quite clean:
  17. Hello! I would like to present my first MOC, which i was tempted to build since a while. I was always more a "fan" of Class 1 buggies ( https://en.wikipedia...i/SCORE_Class_1 ) over Baja trucks, and I also couldn't find any LEGO versions of them, so i decided to build... and failed, built again, and failed..., built again, and so on... The long travel independent suspension with driving was really a challange, finally I found a solution, which works... kinda. I reached my goal, to make this thing move, but I must admit, the driving performance is poor, as the suspension arms are still not rigid enough, so the rear wheels start to lean. It moves, but not what i would call: clear run. Still, i thought, maybe it is worth to share, because the rest of the car is OK. I also would like to inspire others to build such MOCs, i would be happy to see more (and better performing) unlimited buggies! Building instruction (V3): here And now... the pictures (edit: no more video will be made, lack of patience and knowledge) - fixed: EDIT: as updated version is available, old pics and video removed. Pre version pics added. V0 - sketch model: V1 model with XL motors - not really good performance... V2 model with L-motors: Update: V3 is ready - see page 2. A clever patch by @Didumos69 for the rear swingarms, now they can not disconnect at all!
  18. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  19. Hello everyone! It's been a long time since I posted last creation. For the past few months, I've had difficult life situation. I was away from any LEGO-related activities. I did not build new MOCs. I abandoned all WIP projects and just built a wall around myself... I am so sorry, Jantjeuh and rm8. I deeply apologize for having troubled you! In March, I started walking slowly. Soon I recognized that I had to work hard to get back Madoca into my mind. Here are the results. I built two MOCs. Honestly they are mechanically simple and have nothing innovative. Instead, I aimed to achieve both playability and detailed look. I hope you will like them. Please give me a chance for resurrection. Video: CUV Buggy Building instructions and additional pictures: https://plus.google....64977943/albums Rebrickable: CUV http://rebrickable.c...977/compact-cuv Buggy http://rebrickable.c...lightning-buggy Compact CUV It was mainly inspired by red Range Rover Evoque, but finished model is not an exact copy of it. Do you think which actual SUV looks similar to this MOC? I used dozens of newer parts (mostly pins) which were released in 2014 and 2015. So it can be called AWD SUV 2015. Features: All-wheel drive and front wheel steering 2 L motors for propulsion, Servo motor for steering 2 pairs of LEDs for headlights and tail lights Independent suspension on all wheels Working steering wheel and V6 engine Openable hood, doors (with locking mechanism), tailgate, glove box and armrest box:) There are four 12t tan bevel gears on drivetrain. They all survived after two hours crawling. Like blue Buggy, this drivetrain didn't cause breaking gears. My concern was that 3L axles might slide into CV joints. Eventually all four 3L axles moved half-stud into CV joints. But they surprisingly kept holding each 12t black double bevel gears despite the connection became weaker. I thought it's OK because I didn't see any lack of torque or speed. You can see its performance in the video. If you want to avoid this axle movement, you need cutting parts and, A. using 3.5L axle. B. putting 0.5L axle (or flex axle, pneumatic hose, hard hose...) into CV joints. Blue Lightning Buggy It is my Buggy#3. The concept was simple: to build another buggy using different drivetrain from its predecessors. Configuration of motors is the same as Buggy#1 & #2. This time I adopted independent rear suspension. Then I tried to build efficient drivetrain which needed to be nearly the same as direct-drive (#2). Features: Rear wheel drive and front wheel steering 2 L motors for propulsion (one per each rear wheel), Servo motor for steering Long travel independent suspension on all wheels Front axle is placed at positive caster angle Working steering wheel In this setting, L motors never broke bevel gears. Now I want to know if powerful SBrick version would perform well without gear cracking.
  20. I started making a regular Renault Twizy... Twizy 3 by James Tillson, on Flickr ...but with the buwizz and a buggy motor I switched to Twizy F1, Twizy F1 4 by James Tillson, on Flickr Shame its not yellow but the yellow #4 connectors are more expensive than white ones.
  21. Hey guys! It's been a little while since the last build, but I've got a new model. This time it's a class 1 offroad racing buggy like the one in the DIRT2 video game. It has servo steering and two RC motors powering it. Suspension on the front is double wishbone, and rear is trailing arm. My main goal was to make it fast, sturdy, and look good, and I feel like I got a pretty good balance. The only drawbacks are that the steering isn't very precise, and the IR receivers don't get as much reception as I would like outside in the sun. Still, it was a lot of fun to film, hope you guys like the video. Enjoy!
  22. VIDEO: Current Version: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Old Post: Hi! I have decided to enter the TC13 contest and here is my entry so far: It has suspension on both axles and a working V4 engine. It looks a little funky right now, but I am thinking of how to change the front for the better. It has the modern pullback motor in the back. Please give me any advice you have. Back:
  23. Hey guys... while disassembling my newest purchase 8366 RC Supersonic Racer, i was pretty much surprised, when i looked at the serial numbers of the rc-parts. As you can see in the following images, there is the same number on ALL 4 electronical parts (each motor, the RC-unit and the remote). RC-unit motor 1+ motor 2 remote At my first 8366-set there was a different number on each part, as you can see in the following images: rc unit motor 1 motor 2 remote Does this mean, that my first model was put together from different sets? Or did they simply mix the parts at a special date of the production? Also i see a 5-digit serial number on one of my additionally bought motors, wich also includes a letter and not just numbers. Another special thing about this motor is the motorcover on the side, as you can see in the following pictures. I guess the 5-digit one is the newest, maybe out of a 8287 Motorbox-set, or a 8421 Mobile Crane-set? seperatly bought motor serial number 225K8 serial number 6292, 3282, 1263, 5383 Does anyone have more detailled information about all this?
  24. Everything started here thanks to @Leonardo da Bricki front axle and front part was pretty easy. Very challenging was to build narrower (by 2 studs) rear axle with differential and really independent suspension, but somehow I managed it As the result there was rear axle with uutput/input to top or front. Some work in progress And the ens result: some RWD buggy street legal (because of lights) HOG steering and working steering wheel, with possibility to put on right or left side independent suspension on all wheels mudguards moving together with suspension on all wheels boxer type 2cyl engine I'll try to fit 4cyl inline engine later. Now It seems, that should fit.
  25. de-marco

    [MOC] Buggy

    Buggy building instructions Parts list