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Found 91 results

  1. These are the first pictures of the latest contribution to my train collection: a Swiss IC Train with an Re 460 locomotive (partially based on an idea by @Stefaneris). In addition to the locomotive, the train consists of five 1st class coaches whereof one is a panorama coach. The train has a total lenghth of 2.3 m and is equipped with four 9V engines. Quite fascinating to watch this unit climb all the way up to the Swiss mountains and all the way back to Knivsta Station - in two minutes! Goose bumps - and a touch of homesickness ...
  2. Just for laughs!!! The train has wrong colors and during the photo shooting I mounted the roof in wrong position...but it was a simple and fun experiment after all. BTW...I'm still pushing the hand railcar!!! Bye! Davide
  3. [MOC] Narrow Gauge & 9V

    Hello fellow train heads, Today I have for your viewing pleasure a 9V system that's been adapted for Lego narrow gauge (4 stud wide) track: NG: 9V shunter (3) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Here's the engine up close: NG: 9V shunter (1) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr And the underside: NG: 9V shunter (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Now here's a video of it in operation: NG: 9V shunter (vid 1) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr It's pretty finicky in operation at the moment, so I'm looking for your input on ways that I can improve this system! The two main areas that need help are 1) the engine's traction and 2) the electrical pickups. Thanks in advance for your help! ~Nick J~
  4. [9v MOC] CMF vig: March Harriet

    Hello everyone! What kind of ideas pop into your head when you hear of a "cmf 8x8 vignette contest"? Mind you, I eventually thought of Micromotor, 9V, Fiber Optics and a matching figure capable of delivering the goods (hint: it did). Here's what came out of that idea... Just a dance club, folks! Nothing to see here, carry on... It is fairly tall for a vig, but it certainly works give the space restrictions. The dim lights were a pain to film in my setting, although I tried my best. The show must go on, no excuses allowed! And no regrets for that matter. Welcome the Catwoman from the Batman Movie franchise! Double the fun!! Some technical shots. The old 9V system is invaluable for how smoothly it integrates into Lego System. Fitting the fiber optics element into 8x8 was one hell of a task. At times I felt like a car thief on a job... The floor, oh, the floor! Don't even ask. Some bits and pieces. The pole absolutely had to be chrome - a choice afterwards regretted... I dare you to find a sound, functional and purist solution of proper length if you don't believe me. A rubber wheel was the only option of attaching the piece as far as my knowledge of pieces goes. ...And the heat goes on... Now that's a club I wouldn't at all mind visiting... Hope you had a great time here, be sure to visit soon! And something tells me you might just do that... Thanks for your attention! Let me know if you had as much fun as I did! x)
  5. Hey guys, Recently bought a large lot of vintage 9V train sets and parts. The 9V AC/DC wall plugs are the 230V European version. Anyone have any recommendations on replacements for 110V US? Was looking at these ones on Amazon: power supply&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1518564574&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3 but not quite sure on the plug type... Thanks, Jeffinslaw
  6. Hi all, this time I'd like to show you something that is a bit different. It is more a study, or an experiment than a real model. It's is a very small narrow gauge locomotive, inspired by an hand-made creation of Mr. Akio Inoue (who is a famous live steam builder in Japan). The locomotive is depicted on Mr. Mori Iroshi site, which is of great inspiration to me. There's also a Youtube channel (simply search AKUBI LR on Google, you''l find it immediately). Let's say it is a mix between a DEKI-3 and a Rhatische-Bahn GE 2/2 162. Once it was yellow, now it has RhB colors. It's a bit "Japanese" since it has a super-deformed body, it is more tall than long. "Power" (HA HA HA ) is coming from a 9v micromotor mounted upside-down, and there's a working headlight. It needs a battery car to work. I use it on black narrow-gauge Lego curved track, but I recently discovered that LEMAX track has the same gauge and offers straight tracks (no switches, sorry ). It is sloooooooooooooooooooow! I hope you like this little,nerdish thing! It's name is PKZIP (like the file compression archiver for DOS PCs of the past)
  7. Hello all, I'd like to introduce my latest MOC, the Siemens Vectron locomotive of GySEV/ROeEE railway company. These locomotive appeared only months ago on Hungarian rails, the Austrian-Hungarian railway company, GySEV/ROeEE bought 9 of these with different equipment. Some of them are dual-voltage and run under 25kV, 50Hz (Hungary) and 15kV, 16.7Hz (Austria), some of them are capable to work with DC supply as well, and 2 of them with the two different AC-supply will get diesel units inside to ensure the locos can move on industrial tracks not electrified at all. When these locomotives started to appear I designed it in LDD, there was a little competition between Hungarian LEGO train fans with the design. I was the first who finished the virtual build and I loved it, so I decided to build it as soon as possible. This was the first versions, but only AC-DC locomotives have 4 pantographs, the AC-only types have only two of them. I'm quite proud of the angular green tile in the side pattern and also the angled front needed a little thinking around. I started to love the old hing plates with two and three teeth - these teeth do NOT brake the line of the hinge plate and the whole LEGO part fit into less space and easier to build other things on the top of these bricks. The slots for lights are also capable of to be lit by LEGO LED lights - another good invention introduced first in my Stadler FLIRTs to use the flexible exoforce tubes which are capable of bringing the light of PF LEDs where I need that light. You may ask why is that M-motor hanging around - it has a great importance in this model! As the real thing with two different AC-supply, my Vectron works under two different LEGO-voltages - it is compatible with 9V track and 12V track as well! The M-motor switches a polarity switch brick, which cuts off 12V pickups from 9V train motor's contacts - when the locomotive runs in 9V mode, the pickups for 12V track could touch the same rail when going through 9V points, and the loco could short circuit herself! When the loco runs in 12V mode, the polarity switch is ON, and the 9V train motors are supplied from 12V track. At the other end of the locomotive there is an another M-motor - it cuts off the 9V train motor from the output of the controlling SBrick - it won't be a wise idea to power that SBrick both from battery box and both from the 9V track, through its output... Look at the next image, how it works: So if the locomotive reaches the end of electrified track (12V or 9V), it still can carry her train forward - it can run on internal battery box as well. And finally, yes, these stuff did fit into the model: (Since the lower light on each side serves as red and white light on the real thing and upper slot serves for long distance lights at night I put white lights on the upper, red lights on the lower slots.) Also some other images and further details can be found in Hispabrick Magazine #29: Comments and critics welcome! Some other photos:
  8. Hi, I've been away for a while, and without writing a huge story about it, I'm wondering what the status of third party 9v track and accessories is. I was a backer for ME Models metal track - I was also one of the people who expanded their order back in the summer of 2016, and received my full shipment last January. I take it they are having a lot of problems now, and a lot of people did not receive their product. That's really unfortunate... we need some successful players in this market, even if it means higher prices to cover costs. I was recently able to finally set up the track for my annual Christmas train set up - the only time I get to keep out a functioning train layout. The ME track was... interesting. Coming from all LEGO, I will say the conductivity seemed flawless compared to years past, where I always seemed to have bad track along the way somewhere that made the train slow, even after cleaning. I was very impressed with it. That said, the larger radius curved seemed to suffer from not being perfect arcs when put together. Putting the track together - and keeping it together while trying to connect other track, was also fairly frustrating - and I ended up just not using the end plastic pieces that join sections together, and instead just let the traditional rail joiners hold them together. But I checked ME recently, and as we all know there is no more track available. I was so optimistic at the time if the campaign - even answering surveys of what I would like to see next (like new motors). So I searched here.... bricktracks seemed like it would have been worth a shot, but the campaign failed, probably because it was competing with the ME campaign, but I don't know. Still, bricktracks seems like a functioning business - but I only see plastic in the store. So is there any news that I'm missing? I really don't want to just give it up - I really dislike battery operated for a number of reasons.
  9. Hi there, I've noticed whilst testing 'Electric Technic Motor 9V Geared 480rpm' (47154), it was making a strange buzzing noise whilst going both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Could this mean one or more of the internal gears are failing? Thankfully, there are four thin screws on the bottom which allow the motor to be taken apart. Are replacement gears obtainable? If not, then I have to have them either 3D Printed or cast in a silicone mold. Thanks.
  10. Hi to all, Here is a short video of the last event I participate with All spanish replicas of Renfe from Aitoruco and myself. 2 diferent loops with r104 custom curves (printed by blastem), 20Bps cable bridge (Designed by Sheppo), R104 trains (designed by Aitoruco and MTRkustoms) and also working narrow gauge (by MTRkustoms) Enjoy it
  11. Office Christmas Train

    It's 7 weeks till Christmas week from now and you know what that means? Tis Christmas Train season coming up quickly! Some of you may remember me setting up a little train layout in my office last year. All colleagues loved it very much and so this year me and some colleagues are expanding the office train for this year! Compared to last year the new office train will be about 60% more track, 70% more cars and can carry more than 50% more "real cargo" than last years train! This year's office train will feature the following: - T-Shaped 9V layout with 3 stations (calling at 3 different desks, so everyone in this particular office has access to the train) - 4 Track wide cargo cerminal and card - 20m of track length in total - 16 cars in total - Original Santa Fe Super Chief Engine upgraded with the original light brick - Candy wagon for storing and transporting real eatable candy - Band wagon for transporting a bluetooth speaker and stage for the BrickBand - PF shunting engine for the Power Functions yard - A small handcar (this is an inside joke with colleagues) - Winter Holiday Train which I built yesterday I'm super excited - construction will begin this week. We'll see how far we can build it during lunch breaks. Pictures will follow shortly after! But to get me started, I have a couple of questions: How does one operate a 9V layout with two transformers? Do they plug in parallel (i.e. exactly the same way on both transformers)? What power settings do I use when running a train with two 9V motors (power setting the same on both transformers)? Do I have to unplug one of them if I run a smaller train with only one 9V motor, or do I just not bring up power on one of them? Thanks in advance for answering my questions! Here's the planned layout for this year's office train:
  12. I am so excited with Lego's news about their reselling the Taj Mahal, because there's always the possibility that this is just the start of something big, and we could be getting an affordable chance to buy classic sets that we missed out on, or don't want to pay the current online prices. I remember with the arrival of the internet how cool it was to go to places like Lugnet, and then to Ebay, and being shocked at how much trains had gone up in price, even just from 1980 to 2000. Then after everyone complained online about how they missed out on the Metroliner, it suddenly reappeared like a legendary phoenix. With the Club Car in tow! At the time, it made perfect sense bringing back the first 9v train while 9v was still going strong. 10 years seems to be the magic number for rereleases with Lego, as seen with the Legends line, and now Taj Mahal. So I was wondering, what if any trains do you think Lego could/should rerelease? Could they take old 12v and 9v sets and swap in Power Functions? What about the Train Shed, or Santa Fe Super Chief? Emerald Night? Are there any regular retail trains sold after 9v that people are clamoring for a return of, as we saw with the Metroliner almost 20 years ago? Is a train related rerelease even feasible with Lego today? I would love to hear what others think is possible / desired. Personally I wish I could buy more Santa Fe cars for regular retail price!
  13. Hey guys new to the forum but not to lego. Just started a new Youtube channel where Im speed building all the old sets i got when i was a kid. They range from about 1990-2009. Im just getting going on the channel so the list of sets will build as I go. I have roughly 2-250 sets so if you're a fan of older sets check it out. Thanks Travis
  14. Addendum to “Electrify your train switches” Dear all, much has been said and shown about ways to electrify LEGO 9V/PF train switches. Along with the EB electrify your train switches thread and some other posts on EB and elsewhere there hardly is anything interesting to add. But then … as said before, I am just wrapping up more than a decade of years of fun with my train layout. My switch electrification approach is far less driven by achieving “to scale modeling” or “most elegant solutions”, it is governed by “using as many diverse LEGO motors as possible” on a more or less standardized and simple drive base design “using as little parts as possible”. I simply like to make efficient use of the stuff in my LEGO boxes – since there are about 30 switch points on my layout. There are a couple of my personal design lines: Since some areas of the layout are rather “dense”, the footprint of the drive mechanism should be as small as possible A clearance that is a little greater as compared to the original configuration with the manual switch stand installed. The reason is that some of my rolling stock MODs/MOCs have a fairly large “overhang” in curves and thus need some additional clearance when passing switch points The switch drive should not fall apart even after prolonged operation as almost half of my tracks are hidden behind bookshelves and other furniture. No modification of the switch – this means that the force required to throw the switch is often considerable. The rendering below shows one very simple base design for my switch drives. It consists of a couple of Technic as well as plain bricks and plates. The rendering is already 5 years old – time is flying. This particular drive mechanism has one serious disadvantage: Operated with the full torque of the PF motors (e.g. with the PF bang-bang remote #8885) it falls apart after five or so cycles. This issue is rather easily overcome, when the torque of the driving motor is adjusted via power control and pulse timing using a programmable brick as for example an RCX or Scout. It took me ages to figure out how to accomplish that: Adjust the length (e.g. 0.3 s) and the power (on LEGO’s 0 – 7 range) for the motor “on” state. This LDraw file contains all the above varieties; the individual sub models combine to any of the drives shown. (Note that you may need to install the unofficial LDraw library as of 2016 to correctly load the files). Alternatively, paying more careful attention to the original EB switch point electrification thread entry ( would have told me that Jonathan uses his NXT to do exactly that – and for long! The switch is thrown by a lever, which fits into the space between the two mounts for the manual switch stand. By small variations of the actual gear configuration, almost all typical LEGO motors can be attached. The geared varieties [e.g., PF M motor (#8883), Technic mini motor (#71427, #43362), Technic motor geared (#47154), or even the Mindstorms MicroScout PBrick (#32344] are driving the lever with none or low additional gearing ratios; the ungeared Technic motor (#2838) requires higher gear ratios to work properly. The advantage of this drive design is the footprint (as measured on the floor, not height!), which is 3(x6) studs for clearance and 5(x6) studs for the base = 8(x6) studs. The picture below shows two MicroScouts on the bridge operating the two switch points on the right. There are light fibers plugged into the MicroScout’s light sensors; these do transmit the VLL code generated by a Scout PBrick (not visible) to control them. MicroScouts operating as “intelligent motors” for switch drives are fun. The “forward/reverse” “switch” is somewhat unique: When the MicroScout is put into “P” mode it pays careful attention to its built-in light sensor. In this mode, the MicroScout understands some VLL (LEGO’s Visible Light Link protocol) commands such as “motor on forward” etc. In other words you can operate the switch using optical signals from a VLL source. The rendering below shows a Scout controller operating 4 MicroScout switch drives. This version of a switch drive has the smallest depth I could come up with to securely operate unmodified switch points: I used that one on my layout here: Here is the link to the LDraw file. In the mean time I have slightly modified the “RailBricks #9 challenge” drive (a number of ingenious train experts have contributed to this one – see the "Challenge reveal" article by Benn Coifman in RailBricks #12, page 37) and reduced the size to 5-wide at the base. This drive never falls apart, regardless how much torque is exerted on the driving axle. The design is simply amazing! I have retrofitted almost all of my switch points with this version. When a MicroScout is operating the drive, it should be oriented such that you can easily get access to the buttons (on/off, select, run). There are several drive versions to attach the MicroScout in such way that is does not interfere with the required clearance on the point and good access to the buttons. Here are some real world examples: This folder contains all LDraw files Best regards, Thorsten
  15. Hi all, I recently picked up an old bundle of 9v stuff and I'm a bit stuck with son power issues and hope someone can help. I'm a 12v guy so I'm a bit lost! ?. The transformer seems to work. I can't get any power to the track. If I connect a cable from the transformer to the motor directly it works fine (or seems to anyway). When I connect the track connector cable to the track it just won't work. I've tried cleaning the track etc. Also, if I leave the normal 9v cable connected to the motor and then place it on the track with the track connector attached it cuts the power to the motor. Does that make sense to anyone? Haha. Hope someone can help as I'm baffled. Cheers!
  16. 9v battery + PF wire?

    Hi everyone. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with taking a 9v battery plug and joining it with a PF wire. Just like this MiniZip. Any suggestions, tutorials, or discussion is much appreciated. Thanks.
  17. Since i cant testdrive my newest speedracer because of the rainy weather, i decided to clean up my "in progress moc corner" and found this: A as small as possible electric doubleswitch, wich you can use, to control 2 different motors with the same RC output. You can simply select wich one you wanna use. At the same time you can use it to control a gearbox, or output-selector, as you can see in the video. The idea to invent this, was, to realise as much functions as possible in a rc-model, with a limited amount of receivers (in my case just 1 RC-unit). You can use the auxilary output of the RC-unit to control the micromotor, and thus switch between 2 different functions ( for example drive and a pneumatic compressor). The output-selector can be used, to switch for example a servormotors output between steering and pneumatic-switch. "Why so complicated, you could just use the auxilary output for the compressor" -> well... you could do that and beeing limited to the auxilary current limits (~500mA). Also you wont have the gearbox/output-selector then ;) While using this, you can power your compressor (or what ever you want) with the "unlimited" power of the RC-units buggy-motor-output. AND fine-controll it with the 3-step forward, 3-step-reverse-control. It is also possible to control this with the RC-units steering output instead of the micromotor... like that you still have the auxillary-output free for use. How it works: The trick here, is to angle the 2 switches axles by 60 degres (45 would be perfect, but this is ok ;)). But you need to try the right 60 degres angle... only 1 position works, otherwhise you will have 1 motor switched on in one position, and 2 motors beeing on in the other position. The gearbox/ output-selector in the video can be simplified a lot, this is just to show, how it could work. I am pretty sure, there are some more things you could do with it... also with regular power functions ;)
  18. After many years of dreams, reflections, planning (starting Winter 2011/12), testing (starting fall 2013) and finally building (starting spring 2014), this project has finally crossed the finish line - probably one of the world's most extreme and most challenging layouts for Lego Train 9V! An indescribable feeling, great satisfaction and relief - and what a fantastic experience! First some introductory remarks: This is not a "usual" but rather a conceptual layout with analogue power supply and -management, without landscapes and buildings (except one train station). A particularly sophisticated construction with four themes: a one-track vertical climb, two double-track climbing spirales, a double-track high-level track 2.16 m above floor level and a rail yard. The layout is intended for Lego trains equipped with standard Lego 9V train engines. It is built with standard Lego 9V rails and points, some of which are modified. So are all four 9V Train Speed Regulators. With the help of points, the layout can be segmented into four sections (Loop A - D) which make it possible to run four trains simultaneously, independent of each other, with up to ten engines each. However, this requires more hands... To avoid/prevent spontaneous decoupling, all my trains are equipped with super magnets. I also would like to take this opportunity and thank all of you who have contributed with support, valuable advice, and encouragement during all these years. Without all this help, this project would have remained just a dream. And this is how it looks like: More pictures, facts and videos will be added to the first entry of this thread Addendum # 1: Technical Data and Details: Track lengths: Total track length (incl.sidings and dead-ends): approx. 170 m Total "Tour" length (from start to start): approx. 105 m Loop A (High-level track 1/High-speed track): approx. 32 m Loop B (High-level track 2): approx. 29 m Loop C (Climbing-wall from level 85 to traverse on level 175): approx. 46 m Loop D (Level 50 and level 85): approx. 21 m Rails: 928 straight, 263 curved and 37 modified (4, 8, 10 and 12 straight) Points: 10 standard points (whereof 3 are operated electrically) 6 crossover points (4) 11 half-curve points (1) Track Design Program: Track Designer Application (R) version 2.0 by Matthew D. Bates (Matt's LEGO (R) Train Depot) Electrics/Electronics: 1 Power Supply Unit VOLTCRAFT EP-925, 3-15 V(DC), max. 25A 4 modified Train Speed Regulators (4548) with LM350T regulators, 3A diodes, outside heatsinks (with a thermal resistance of 1.9 K/W), mini-fans and digital thermometers to measure temperatures inside the boxes 4 Control-boxes to operate 12 points electrically. The boxes are equipped with "memory-sticks" to memorize the position of each point since these are out of reach and sight. 12 PF Medium engines mounted on the electrically operated points 52 Power connections to rails 1 Control-box to selectively turn on/turn off 11 power connections Approximately 1000 m cable whereof approx. 850 m RK cable 1.5 square mm Märklin pins and sleeves 1 LED strand (4 m) with dimmer 1 IR-thermometer to measure heatsink temperatures Construction: 7 levels: Rail yard level (50 cm above floor level) Train station level (85) U-curve level 1 (115) U-curve level 2 (145) U-curve level 3 (175) Eaves level (195) Top-level (216) Max. gradient: 83 per mille (The gradients are built in such a way that all trains can manage to get uphill and downhill with adhesion, i.e. without cogwheels). Min. clearance: approx. 12 cm Train shelves: Shelf system: Algot (IKEA) 15 train shelves type A (102x11x1.6 cm), 8 straight/shelf 27 train shelves type B (166x11x2 cm), 13 straight/shelf 12 train shelves type C (217x11x2 cm), 17 straight/shelf all train shelves are strengthened with 22x45 mm wood strips All in all 54 train shelves with a total length of 87 m (678 straight) and 108 railway buffers 2 "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys (Algot) Room dimensions: 5.5 x 7.3 m Occupied floor space (incl. train shelves): approx. 9 square m Construction materials: Wood (45x45 mm) and wood strips (22x42 mm) MDF boards (6 and 10 mm) Glass shelves (6 mm) Polycarbonate strips (3 mm) and rivets Cable conduits Steel cords (3 mm) with wire locks Perforated plates and angle irons Cable ditches and cabling towards cable terminal Cable terminal Power supply unit and cable terminal box Control center Addendum # 2: More pictures with some of my MOCs Glacier Express with Matterhorn in the background Trans Europ Express (TEE) "Rheingold" and TEE-VT 11.5 in alpine environment Swiss "Crocodile" (10183) with heavy RhB cargo transport in the steepest part of the entire track - a gradient of 83 permille! "Uppsalapendeln" in the midst of the Swiss Alps - imagine if this were for real .... Emerald Night on its way up to the mountains Track Cleaning Train at Knivsta Station - ready for new missions Track Maintenance Train on its way for a new mission Addendum #2A: Train shelves "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys with two Maersk and one TTX Train section(s) ready for transit Addendum #3: Videos
  19. What block and programing I must use, to properly handle management of 5119-1 9V Micromotor, and others ?!!
  20. Tramway line - RCX Automation

    This was an experiment of automation of a tramway line with an old LEGO RCX brick: All sensors and cables are 100% LEGO. There are 8 light sensor, 4 (two couples, one couple for station and one for switch zone) on input 1 and 4 on input 2. 3 output, output A (station 1 - switch), output B (station 2 - switch) and output C (switch zone). Everything is handled by NQC program
  21. Greetings all. Recently, I have decided to make the painful decision of selling my 9V collection. It hurts a bit to sell all these wonderful things, but for the last year they haven't done much except sit in a drawer. They deserve better than that. Listing: Basically, what I did was took the lowest BrickLink price for any given article and cut a bit more off. I'm not interested in making a massive profit off of these. I'll settle for an even 3,400.00 EUR, shipping costs on me. Trains would be shipped worldwide via FedEx, UPS, DHL, or any courier of your choice available in Poland or the UK (pickup also available in these two countries). Not everything on the pictures is listed, but everything in the picture (LEGO-wise) is included. Additionally, as I'm cleaning the room in which the LEGO are in (it's quite a big room, about 45-50 square meters, and it's filled with stuff so it won't take a short while), I'm more than willing to send free-of-charge anything else I can find from my collection (I'm pretty sure there were about 5 9V motors lying around somewhere). I am also including a folder with this collection. The folder contains instruction booklets in EXCELLENT condition for most of the models. All the instruction booklets for the Santa Fe sets are in there in mint condition, as well as the certificate of authenticity for the limited edition (please note that the other one is not limited edition). The folder also contains all the spare parts from the Santa Fe car sets, so conversions are possible. Feel free to email message me about any inquiries regarding this collection. If you want I can put it up for a private auction on eBay (I'd rather avoid doing so because of the fees). *Note - the Metroliner is counted as 2 sets, but one is incomplete. As you can see from the picture, what I have is the Metroliner and 2 additional cars. The cars came from 2 incomplete Metroliner sets (one contained the engine and the car, the other contained an incomplete engine and the car, only the incomplete engine survived and is seen on the picture). I've basically listed the Metroliner and 2 incomplete sets as 2 complete sets (2 engines, 3 cars). *Note - one of the cargo train locomotives is a custom. I ordered it by accident from BrickLink (didn't read the description). It's a bit shorter than the original, and it doesn't have the undercarriage mechanics, although this is easy to add. It still comes with a working 9V motor.
  22. 9-Volt Motor Substitutes

    'ME-Models' markets metal tracks that substitute Lego's official 9-volt track, and 4D-Brix reproduces 9-volt monorail substitute parts (including track, motors, plus battery packs) as well, so why has nobody stepped up to the plate and tried to recreate/mass produce motorized 9-volt train bogies/trucks (serial number 590/70358)? A mint one currently goes for as much as 70 USD and used ones go for almost 40 USD, which is ridiculous since that's enough money to buy me food for a week.
  23. Using a 9v battery box

    I can't seem to find anything about this elsewhere, so I'm going to ask here directly. Are there any disadvantage of using the older, 9v battery pack (4760c01) that took one 9v cell to run power functions receivers and motors instead of the current, 6x AAA battery pack (87513)? I know it will require a converter cable, but from my view it looks as though a 9v battery pack would be better as it is smaller (in height) and available in more colours than just DBG, so easier to hide in 4-wide MOCs and such. Will this have lower power or current output to the motors, or discharge faster? Is it suitable for use in train MOCs, considering mine won't need to run very far or for very long? I was intending on using it with a rechargeable 9v cell or two, how often would I need to swap one out and recharge it? I'm trying to decide whether or not buying one, and a converter cable, is a good idea. (Or I could try bashing together a PF cable and 9v battery clip perhaps, like this.) Thanks in advance for any help!
  24. Hey guys, I've recently been trying hard to come up with a useful layout to use both my old 9V trains and my PF trains on the same layout. I just can't come up with anything that works and is interesting. Most of the time I end up with one loop and a dozen sidings and that would only allow me to run one train at once which is a bit boring. I have a decent amount of track (150+ pieces), both 9V and PF, but I just can't figure out something that I like. Here are a couple examples of some layouts I came up with: I don't really like either of them too much but I can't come up with anything better than these two. I'd like to know how you designed your layouts and how you go about designing new ones. I'd like to utilize as much of the track I have as possible. I've already looked at dozens of pictures online but most layouts are either too big or not interesting enough. Looking forward to seeing yours :)
  25. Hey guys! As some of you know, I recently got back to Lego trains after 15 years of neglect. A close friend of mine thought it was a good idea to document my progress, thoughts and plans on a personal blog, so others would be able to one day build their own big layouts and see what I struggled with and how they can do it better. I'd like you guys to check it out and use this forum to comment on my posts and maybe give me suggestions (I love ideas) on things you would want to hear about or see of. This blog is entirely dedicated to my Lego trains project. So far there are 4 blog entries (The latest one is being uploaded right this moment). If you wish to comment on something, let me know which post you're referring to, so I know what the topic is. Thanks for checking it out! //Edit: By the way, I try to post once a week, every Monday.