Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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  • Birthday 07/23/1987

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  1. I think there also has to be a new, shorter version of the new "female" CV joint, since there is only 7 studs between suspension arms. EDIT: I also think the front shock absorbers are connected with a liftarm that can swing freely. This way the front suspension acts like a pivoted axle, simillar to my Universal 4x4 off-roader
  2. They are using new CV joints, you can see on the photo if you increase exposure. I think it will be a simple 16:16 tooth gear to the diff and onto the wheels.
  3. Thanks for all the praise to everyone. Unfortunately, I can't share the LDD file, but if anyone wants more photos of certain details, let me know! Regarding frames, yes, due to the molding limitations, they have a slight difference in the upper and lower side, which is what I exploited in order to fit the 24 tooth gear of the differentials without rubbing. I'm really happy you noticed this, @shroomzofdoom and thank you for the encouraging words.
  4. Indeed and it's a normal one, you can even make out the Z16 text.
  5. I always wonder how some people manage to get their hands on sets almost 3 months before release? Judging from review, Lego has to again baby-step the differential assembly and orientation and put additional bricks to prevent incorrect placement.
  6. I will ask if it's okay to share the LDD file. Regarding instructions, I doubt many people would actually be interested in the model as it is, since it's a very specific, part-intensive, expensive and complicated build.
  7. Personally I mostly prefer high-travel independent suspension, especially in the front for fast vehicles where stability is important. Independent suspension allows you to build a much lower and stable frame, and the steering system tends to be more responsive than linking the power to a live axle. Also there's less chance of drivelines popping out under stress. Independent suspension is generally much more responsive and smoother since there's no weird perpendicular conenctors needed to connect 9L shock absorbers at non-axial mounting points. Having said that a live axle with integrated drive and steering motors is a good way to go too, but than again you need a high, stiff frame to hold it all together, increasing center of gravity. I think a compromise with Independent front suspension and live axle in the back might be a good way to too.
  8. Talk about mods, managed to motorize it using 6 drive motors, which is the most I ever crammed in a 1:10 car. 4 motors are used for rear wheel drive, 2 for the front and they all use brick-built CV joints to drive the wheels. Top speed has yet to be tested, but should be around 25 km/h. Here's a small teaser:
  9. Remember that you can get the 42114's and 42110's wheel arches also in white which might be an easier color to work with.
  10. Sure, go ahead, that's why I share my builds, to inspire others! Can't wait to see your F350, will it be in the same scale?
  11. Difflocks work as they should, so far no issues with them. Regarding instructions, I doubt since this was a one-off project.
  12. Agreed, the adventure park seems to use more interesting and varied mechanics than the usual 1:10 scale cars. Heck, can't remember the last time I saw a Technic set use so many different and varied mechanism in a single build. You have axles and bevel gears in all directions, rotational movement, U joints, various oscilating functions such as waves and pirate ship movements, seems more of an essence of what Technic is really about. Edit: Also, a function going through the small turntable!
  13. Thank you! They can swivel in the rear since they extend when compressed. The rubber bands hold the brake caliper holder represented by handles 30031.
  14. From my experience, the PF and PU XL motors are the quite quiet thanks to the low internal friction and low output speed. Also the old 9V block motor, 43362 was very quiet too: