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Found 48 results

  1. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  2. Hello Eurobricks AFOLs, I am Engine and this is my first post here on EB forum. My friend HorcikDesigns told me, some of you here want to know more about my last MOC. My pleassure! Original Vehicle: As some of you noticed, my MOC should be scale model of Ghe-o Rescue. It is a Romanian rescue vehicle designed for extreme terrain, with a capacity of up to 11 people. Dimensions are: 5.2 m length; 2.7 m width (even wider version exists); 2.4 m higth (without rooftop carrier). The weight is 3.2 tons. Under the bonnet, more engine types can be monted, with the most powerful one with 500 hp. Live axles are used for suspension, both equipted by lockable differentials. There are also built-in water tanks for 620 liters for fire extinguishing. Another specialty is the possibility to mount tracks to rear wheels or pneumatic "pillows" on wheels for floating on water. Tires are also special. It is Arctictrans 1300x700-24 (diameter 1300 mm and width 700 mm). The manufacturer shows off an independent test in which they won over Avtoros and Trecol manufacturers. Here you can see several cars built on them. And because the tire diameter and width exactly match the 1:16 scale to the LEGO "Tumbler" tires Ø81.6x44, the scale of the model was decided. So far I do not know any other LEGO cration of Ghe-o Rescue. MOC: The MOC was designed for Kostky.org Trophy Competition, organized by our technic race event guru Peter. And the task was to build a drivable, remote-controlled, off-road vehicle that would be able to travel about 3 km. And at the same time, it should be as beautiful as possible and with design matches to original vehicles. Terrible task. The dimensions of the model are: 332 x 168 x 168 mm (41.5 x 21 x 21 studs), weight 1.2 kg. The drive is permanently 4x4 without differentials. Axles are not sprung. But thanks to the torsionally soft frame of the vehicle, decent axle crossing is achieved (some LEGO trial experience here). Inside, there is a functional winch with a length of 2.5 m. Good lighting is a necessity for the expedition special. The control is provided by sBrick. The propulsion is made by 1 x PF XL motor with a total gear ratio of 1: 1. Schizophrenic steering is provided by the PF Servo. The winch is driven by a PF M motor via a worm gear (8: 1 ratio). Five pairs of PF lights really shine in front of the car. Electrical source is a battery box with 6 AA batteries. The whole MOC is pure LEGO exept of: sBrick receiver, high strength thread as winch rope, threaded cardans and event mandatory stickers. Drive ability: Drivig speed corresponds to a pleasant walk. Off-road capabilities were adequate to the track. Tire traction did not limit offroad capabilities, but a small power of e-motor did. Then the winch becomes useful, that is able to lift the entire weight of the vehicle. And if it was still not enough, the other "competitors" were there to help. A minor issue was the steering. Thanks to the loose in steering mechanism and occasional insensivity in the mobile app, sometimes I sent it out of the way. A major issue was energy consumption. Within 1.5 km, I drained out three sets of batteries (2x alkaline GP Ultra Plus, 1x rechargeable GP 2700). And yet I do not know how to solve it. But most likely it is caused by PF Servo motor, as we disscussed after the event with other partipiciants. ----- Thank you for comments and questions. Pictures are here in my gallery. Original post on Kostky.org.
  3. Hey Everyone! Here is the successor to my Lego Technic Chili Crawler, the Cactus Crawler It took about half of a year of design and revision to reach its current state, of which I am proud of. THE VIDEO: youtube Features: - 3 L-Motors for drive (two in the rear axle, one in the front) - M-Motor and a small linear actuator for front steering - Rigid, triangulated 4-link suspension for the front axle, with large, soft, black shock absorbers - Extremely rigid 2-link rear suspension with ball-joint pivot point on top of the axle, similar to that found in the RC "Mantis" crawler - 100% Lego-legal custom curved rear links that, with how the main cab is shaped, provide exceptional ground clearance towards the rear of the crawler, allowing it to climb up relatively large vertical structures such as street curbs - Very minimal, light bodywork - BuWizz for extra power and SBrick for a great, custom control scheme Note: By the time I finished designing the cab and it's battery enclosure, BuWuzz had not yet come out with the update for their iOS app that allows a single joystick/slider to control multiple outputs, so I was forced to use an SBrick with the BuWizz, providing the extra power from the BuWizz, but with the ease-of-use and great custom control profiles of the SBrick. When used with the SBrick, the BuWizz does in fact still provide more power than the standard Lego 8878 LiPo battery box. - RC4WD 1.9" Krypton scale tires - Two green pieces so that I can call it the Cactus Crawler ;) LXF hopefully coming soon, the tires can easily be found with a quick google search of their name. YES, I know, there is no body. This is meant for performance, meaning I made the cab as small, light, and rigid as possible. I will be able to reply intermittently throughout the day. I figured I'd put this up now anyway! pt
  4. Hi, This is my latest attempt at building offroad car. Wrangler Trophy by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Introduction and Motivation I built it for the Kostky.org TROPHY, adventurous event and AFOL meeting that is inspired by Camel Trophy series, and was held by Kostky.org (CZ+SK LUG) at 5th August 2017 for the very first time. It was awesome day, and I hope that there will be more. Here is the the official video from the event. There were really great cars there. The car itself The car was built to fit the rules of the competition. That means reserve "fuel" in the car during whole race before refuelling, remote control (no wire connection between truck and controller, S-bricks allowed) and representative appearance. So I decieded to go with the force, and installed two XL motors for the drive, geared down in 3:5 ratio, and two L motors, each for the winch (1:8) and steering (mini LA). I also reduced gearing to the minimum, due to minimal energy-consumption. (I nearly did the whole race to single Li-Po BB) The car is not perfect, it is very heavy (approx. 1500g), so it does not allow to use CV joints in the front axle for smooth wheel rotation. They managed to withstand the race, but in the finish (before the big uphill from the first video) they were strongly damaged, mostly because of big steering angle. Well, I hope that the video will say enough, if you have any questions, feel free to ask me. :) Photos: JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr
  5. Hi everybody! today i wont to show you my new creation - Gaz 34-6x6 soviet truck. This truck is modification of legendary Gaz 66.I'm crazy about 6x6 trucks,thats why I built Gaz 34. So,here it is: As you see,this is not original configuration of Gaz 34.I'm added portal axles(without diffs),bigger wheels and slightly changed the rear suspension.Finally-it is really good trial truck,with great grip on sand,grass (thanks to the wheels from 42054). So,lets look for the technical specifications: -6x6 wheel drive,without any diffs -portal axles -huge offroad wheels -2 buggy motors for drive -1 medium motor fot steering+micro motor(they tern steering wheel in the cabin) -Sbrick -3s li-fe battery(9,9 volts) -Leds lights(headlights) -balanced rear suspension(thats why truck has really good suspension travel) Let see it in action! https://youtu.be/hHDJLmvZ4BA
  6. Hello everyone! This is another Jeep which I built while leaving some unfinished projects on the shelf. For three months I have had no time for LEGO mainly because of my nursing job. (Did you see Wolverine taking care of Professor X in the movie "Logan"? I do something like that ) I really needed to take a new step forward for my motivation. Instructions of former two MOCs are still work in progress. I am sorry to keep you waiting. Jeep Wrangler Weight: around 1100g (with hardtop) -2 L motors for propulsion -M motor for steering -Front and rear open differential -Linked pendular suspension without shock absorbers -Openable hood, doors and tailgate with lock -LED for headlights -Detachable body The chassis is not realistic at all. It was new to me to build the suspension without using shocks. It even doesn't have sway bars. Suspension travel is long enough for this scale. It worked fine when driving over small obstacles. But on a steep incline (40+ degrees), it became unstable and tended to roll over sideways. That move was understandable because it had no anti-roll mechanism. I tried to put the battery box close to the center as possible for better weight distribution. Passenger seat was sacrificed for it, but the whole model with hard top is still slightly rear-heavy. Jeep Wrangler is known as one of the most modifiable vehicle on earth. So I made a few options such as 2-piece hardtop, tube doors, bumpers and another color scheme. But the best way is building more realistic chassis for this body. Unfortunately I could not make it this time. Maybe in the future... Building instructions for red version with those options above available at Rebrickable. I hope you will like it!
  7. Good day. This is a trial truck using 1 XL motor for drive, 1 M motor for steering and powered by BuWizz. The drive is powered through a worm gear to 8t gear, creating a powerful 1:8 reduction. It uses model team wheels , they don't have the best perfomance, but it is good enough. For the bodywork I was inspired by ГАЗ-66 (gaz-66), although it isn't an exact copy. Both doors can be opened, the seats and steering wheel are adjustable LDD model available here: download
  8. hi everebody! Today i would like to show you my new 4x4 pickup truck. Specifications: dependent suspension portal axles 2 buggy motors for drive(geared 13,8 :1) 1 M motor for steering 107 mm wheels so,here it is and the video available here:
  9. Well, I was not really 100% happy with the buggy I made and in that post I asked for advice on drive axles. Unfortunately as I mostly only have old pieces (pre dark-ages) I could not make most of the suspensions So I tried one that I could use (I originally wanted to make a mini front wheel drive car) and made a mini car with what I could. I'm really proud of what has turned out, the truck looks like a jeep/hummer as is so freaking cute I designed the chassis so that the bodies are interchangeable. I think that a competition where everyone is to make a body for one type of chassis would be really cool, but i'm not famous so it seems far fetched Thanks guys, <forgot to add> The reason this car is a little slow is that my family forced me to purchase rechargeable batteries meaning that the output is 7v not 9v. I would get a buwizz but that is expensive
  10. Hey guys I wanted to test out the unimog suspension but I forgot how it was set up so I tried what i remembered of it into this buggy's rear axle: But I think I somewhat messed up What are the principles for live axles? And on a completely unrelated topic, does anyone have tips to make driven and suspended front wheel drive? Thanks Update: Just took it apart, probably gonna use the advice to make something better.
  11. A model I've been working for a little while, not much to show yet but pictures soon. 6x6 truck with locking rear diffs and 2 central diffs in the 6x6 drive making for a combination of power delivery choices, similar to the drive train of the mercedes amg 6x6. Using tires from 42054 so its, big near half a meter or so now. Rear live axel suspensions front independet fake v 10 soon to be geared in, possinble addition of 4 speed gearbox and 4 xl motors for drive. with fully rc gear and diff lock control and who knows what else?
  12. Hello! My latest MOC is a re-creation of unusual Jeep model. Jeep Mighty FC Concept -Weight: 2125g -2 XL motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential -M motor for winch -3 LEDs for front and rear lights -2 SBricks powered by one rechargeable battery box -Portal axles -Openable doors and tailgate -Shallow bed with fold-down sides -Detachable roof -Alternative tube doors The chassis is not realistic, but has decent offroad capability as heavy Lego model. My goal was to make a sturdy and powerful crawler having propulsion motors and gearbox on the center of its chassis. Which means the drivetrain contains two universal joints - weakest points - for transmitting the torque to front and rear live axles. To save U-joints from damaging, I adopted two stage reductions after differential on both axles. The gearbox is similar one to my previous FJ40 Crawler. I doubled the pair of 8T/24T gear for higher durability. High gear is three times faster than low gear. You may wonder why rear ball joint is connected lower than front. That is for avoiding body roll caused by high torque of hard-coupled XL motors. Seeing from the gearbox, the rear output rotates in opposite direction to the front one. So the front and rear axle are equally forced to rotate in opposite direction to each other. Thus the center chassis with heavy body does not easily roll left or right even when climbing steep incline. (...at least on paper. I admit the complete body is a little bit too heavy to prove the theory above.) Steering angle is good, but turning radius is not so good. Because of the lack of center differential, it cannot handle different rotating speed of front and rear axle in tight turning. On slippy surface, like in the video, it can be steered without any problem. Rear differential can be locked instantaneously. The role of 8T gear on top of red changeover part is to make a tiny gap between 16T clutch gear and driving ring in locked position. Thanks to the gap, 16T gear is not pushed against outer structure. That helps to decreasing the friction. Front winch is powered by M motor geared 9:1. I used two pairs of 8T/24T gear instead of worm gear. It is smoother and surprisingly powerful. The hook can be manually pulled out by switching the lever under right seat. The body looks a bit squarish comparing to the real Mighty FC. Maybe I could replicate trapezoidal shape of its cabin. But I thought angled pillars and roll cage would be wobbly. So I decided to build simple yet sturdy. Instead of realistic appearance, I managed to realize easily detachable roof and doors. Although the whole MOC is built for using Unimog tires, Claas tires also fit well. But the maximum articulation of axles would be smaller because bigger tires possibly touch the chassis and fenders. It would be necessary to limit suspension travel or slightly modify the chassis. I hope you will like it! I will make building instruction. But I have to finish the instruction of Pickup first.
  13. Hello everybody! This is my first post on EuroBricks! My Flickr: Silvavasil_Lego Jurassic Park Jeep PF: Light - Servo -Lipo - XL LDD: Jurassic Jeep Instruction Look and like my Jurassic Jeep on Rebrickable please! ;) This is '90s Jeep Wrangler from legendary blockbuster Steven Spielberg's "Jurassic Park" As a child i feel in love with this movie. Now i have put together two of children's hobbies - lego and dinosaur!) This is lego technic rc MOC Powered by Lego LiPo battery, remote control drive and steering (XL & servo motors) all wheel drive, suspension, working headlights, opening doors, hood and tailgate, and a folding windshield. Photo by me too) Adventure 65million years in the making! Good text from the Brothers Brick: Incredible LEGO Jurassic Park jeep looks right at home in the jungle And Lego Car Blog: Jurassic Jeep
  14. Well Guys, i finished my newest MOC,the well known red Pickup from GTA V Character Trevor Phillips.The Canis Bodhi might be one of the most iconic Character Cars from GTA V because it`s a unique Vehicle and it has an interesting little Feature mounted on the Grill. Yes,Trevor had some good Times with Mr. Rasberryjam so the little Bear has to come everywhere. I tried to recreate the Car as good as possible and even added some Gimmicks like a Gun, a Shovel (to dig Holes for Bikers) and an Axe for....well chopping Stuff to Pieces. I also tried some detailing under the Car like the Driveshaft and a Pair of Exhausts. To complete the Pickup,i also tried to make two Minifigs of Trevor himself and Nervous Ron. I hope everyone likes my newest Creation,feel free to Comment and Like. 20161110_154908 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_154924 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_154931 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_154946 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_154957 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155029 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155038 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155054 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155119 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155137 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155434 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr 20161110_155442 by Christian Weber, auf Flickr
  15. Hello everyone! Since TLG released 76023, I had been waiting for affordable Technic set which includes so-called Tumbler Tires. So I jumped at 42050 Drag Racer. I also bought some extra tires separately, then revived old project which had failed three years ago. Avtoros Shaman 8x8 Building instructions: Rebrickable Weight: 2550g - 4x L motor for 8 wheel drive - 2x Servo motor for 8 wheel steering - M motor for switching steering mode (AWS and crab) - M motor for winch - 3x LED for front and rear lights - 2x SBrick powered by 2x 8878 rechargeable battery box - Independent suspension for all wheels - Working steering wheel - Openable hood, doors and roof hatch Back in 2013 As you may know, real Shaman is which can go through almost any kind of terrain. It has three steering modes and can scale 45-degree incline. On top of that it is amphibious. Seeing pictures and videos, I instantly fell in love with it.When I started the project, I was too ambitious to realize all features above. Sadly I could not build even steering mechanism while keeping all wheel drive and independent suspension. So I changed the project to building another 8x8 vehicle. It ended up as my Tatra 813 Trial Truck, but that is another story. Focus on characteristic features Two months ago, I suddenly came up with an idea that enables both normal AWS and crab steering. In the case of four-wheeler, you can do it by switching rotation of second Servo motor for rear axle. But in eight-wheeler like Shaman, you should change turning radius of second and third axle. In normal mode, the steering angle of inner two axles is smaller than outer axles. But in crab mode, all axles should be steered at the same angle. This is the basis of steering idea. I used the way of fixing/moving pivot of steering linkage. A: There are two 7L steering racks connected to 7L beams. Front rack is connected in the middle of beam, rear is one stud backwards. Both ends of beams are connected to steering arms of each axle. B: In normal mode, rear rack is fixed by 12T bevel gear. So the fixed pivot of 7L beam is its 5th pin hole. Which makes front end of beam moves twice as rear end does. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is twice as 2nd axle. C: In switching crab mode, 12T bevel gear moves one stud forward and fix front rack. Fixed pivot is 4th pin hole of beam. Which makes both ends of beams move equally. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is the same as 2nd axle. And there is one more twist. D: I put main steering rack (moved by pinion gear) on one stud forward of 7L beam's front-end (which means 9L beam’s front-end). Seeing from the pivot point, this rack is connected to farther than the point of front steering arms connected. So front steering arms always move slightly shorter than main rack does. When Servo fully turns 90 degrees, pinion gear moves the rack in one stud sideways. Steering arms move less than one stud. This was necessary for keeping CV joint (connected to steering hub) rotate smoothly even when fully steered. Challenge and compromise First of all, this MOC is NOT amphibious. It is too heavy to float. And because of driving motors of low position, chassis is not waterproof at all. So it is not recommended driving it through even shallow water pool. My aim was to achieve decent crawling capability. But I had to lower the bar because there was no room left for portal/planetary hub reduction. Without them, heavy load from 81mm tires directly goes to 12T half bevel gears. First attempt was using two XL motors geared 25:9. I put each motor for left/right side of axle. The result was unsatisfied. Even when climbing over small obstacles, bevel gears often slipped and got damaged. So I replaced them with four L motors geared 3:1. Each one drives a pair of half axles. Thanks to their good speed and smaller torque, new drivetrain proved to be more reliable. Although bevel gears were still slipping a bit, I accepted overall performance. The picture above shows two L motors for driving right side of axles. The power functions switch for changing rotation of rear Servo motor is synchronized with moving steering pivot mechanism. In crab mode, rear 4 wheels steer opposite the same direction as front wheels. As always I used few of non-Technic parts. Big roof tile was used for saving weight, curve slope parts were better choice for filling the gap. LBG axles sticking out the roof are visible indicator for steering mode. They are mechanically connected to switching mechanism. In the video you can see how they work. Instructions available at Rebrickable. Building it in red is possible by using red parts instead of white. I hope you will enjoy building!
  16. [MOC] Batman`s Bat-Jeep

    We all know that the Dark Knight has a Vehicle for every Terrain and for each Environment. Now he also have one for Offroad Purposes.With those large Steel Panes he can plow through everything and the sharp Angles of the outer Shell was inspired by Stealth Bombers to obscure Batmans Ride from the Enemy Radar. Hope you like my newest Creation... I know,a Batmobile needs Fins,but i think they would just destroy the overall Look. I made the Car in yellow,black and grey to match the Microfighters Batman. Maybe the Roof will be switched one Day (because i need it for another MOC)
  17. Hi guys! Today I am pleased to present new MOC - RANCHER 4x4. The basis of this model was a completely new chassis, the creation of which took me almost two months. The model is based on the support frame mounted with its two L motors, and a small battery pack. To fasten the frame of continuous two gantry axles - which significantly increases the reliability of the transmission. Servo motor is mounted directly on the front axle. As I chose the stake so beloved by all, but it is quite rare on the Tumbler wheel - 81,6x44 mm. I think this is one of the best wheels from LEGO, along with 94,3x38 from the Unimog. And I'll show you how to use it to modify the set LEGO 10248 Ferrari F40 :) Specifications and features: Four-wheel drive, portal axles uncut; Tires 81,6x44 (Tumbler) 2L motors - the drive motor; Servo motor - steering; 3xLED - lights; Small battery pack; Modular design - a body attached to the chassis by 4 points; Opened doors, hood and door body
  18. Hey Guys, i recently finished the new "Rescue from Ra`s Al Ghul" Set. I really like the Minifigs and the Building,but i don`t really like the Batmobile in this Set. So i thought about "hey,why not designing your own Offroad Batmobile?" And a few Minutes later in LDD,the new Offroad Batmobile was born.Kinda looks like a Tank or an APC.I was inspired by the Hydra Tank from "Hydra Fortress Smash" but made the Vehicle smaller.The Design is very sleek but the Car still looks sturdy enough to burst through ancient Walls or Concrete. I reused the Stud Shooters from the Original Vehicle. So,what do you think of it?
  19. Hello all, I present to you my newest MOC, a trophy truck, called Firestorm. I started this project recently, and decided to share it on EB. It is still a work in progress, so not everything on the truck is final. Any comments and suggestions are welcome. The model has: adjustable caster angle (thanks for the idea Sariel), connected independent rear trailing arms, a Servo for steering, and 2 L-motors for drive. I am also working on 2 other chassis that are still in development.
  20. Hello! Today I am pleased to present to the general public of the two brothers - Lego Technic Suzuki Jimny Trial Custom and Lego Technic Suzuki Jimny Trophy Custom. They are united, above all, not just a long name, but also a common chassis, all-wheel drive and compact size. I was inspired to build a Suzuki Jimny sample 2001-2010 years. They are often prepared to take part in various off-road competitions, and that I thought - why not? And that's what came out of it. Enjoy ;) Models are made in the off-road style, and have all its attributes - extra lights, safety railings, stingers high clearance More photos and building instructions you can find on my lego technic blog here
  21. Full Album: http://imgur.com/a/YdL5x Specifics: 4x L Motors RWD (Geared Up 1.2x) Full Independent Suspensions 6x Shock Absorbers 2x AA Battery Box 2x V2 IR Receivers Frontal Led Lights Differential Weight: 1250g (with batteries) The Idea is to create an Heavy-Weight Buggy with good performances using no expensive pieces (Buggy Motors, SBrick..). The final speed is acceptable, the torque has some difficulties in uphill but for the plain is sufficient, and the maximum speed is reached quickly. I called it Fury Road because it reminds me so much the style of Mad Max vehicles. I know it's a little be "naked" but I like it in this way. I putted in it some lateral exhaust pipes, a little spoiler, a cabin and some lights to improve the aesthetics. I tried to put the IR receivers in a position that seems a big engine that comes out. Hope you like it! ;)
  22. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  23. Hi there folks, thanks for taking a look @ my creation. When I started driving (real) cars I loved to lower them, coilovers, airride, I tried everything! Now that I drive a real life Subaru Forester (1998) and take it off road occasionally, I am starting to like off roading and their techniques a lot! So I wanted to create a (small as possible) Lego off road chassis with these elements built in: -Front wheel steering system -Rigid axle with free suspension movement front and rear. Capable of off roading and some rock crawling. -4x4 connection with center diff. Front and rear axle locked. -Turning engine concept. After trying a lot of concepts in LDD, I figured its quite hard to put these elements into a very small working chassis. I tried to fit a Boxer engine (Subaru) in there, but it just wouldnt fit. I came up with a chassis wich I wanted to order @ Lego 'pick a brick', but figured that 'pick a brick' does not have enough bricks available I checked some more shops, but lost hope to order the separate bricks. So I wanted to show you guys my concept wich is not complete. Also LDD has some issues with the hinge tool. Its a very nice piece of software, don't get me wrong What do you guys think? (More pictures coming, photobucket is acting a bit strange, sorry)
  24. Hi guys, I waned to show my latest creation a 8x8 tatra truck. It's still a wip (for a very long time now) but I bought 2 new sets with some piecies I needed. Right now I'm going to focus on the cab to make it better looking. Will post updates when I've had some progress Here are the pictures ]
  25. Hi, I haven't posted anything here for a long time, because nowadays I build very rarely due to health issues. But finally I managed to complete this model - the Rock Crawler. The idea was to improve the perfomance of the 9398 set while retaining the same power scheme: a L-motor on each axle for driving and one servo to steer both axles. I also wanted to bring model's appearance closer to reality (9398 looked more like a monster truck to me). However I wasn't sure until the last brick placed if fixed gear ratio 5:1 would be enough to achieve rock crawling capabilities. And, as you can see in the video below, it seems that the model is slightly heavy for this setup. Well, at least it looks like a proper rock crawler (note: the overall simplicity of design and heavy use of panels was determined by the effort to keep model strong). Oh, and that black panel 5x11 at the back should be white (no more left in my stock). So, what do you think about it? LDR file can be obtained here (please read notes there before downloading). And some more pics: