Reker1000000

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Reker1000000

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    12v trains
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    7750

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Anything 12v!

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  • Country
    United States

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  1. Reker1000000

    7755 review

    Hello Eurobricks, For all that are interested in the Grey Era, I recently purchased a 7755 in extremely nice condition from a good seller in the Netherlands and made an in-depth review of the set. I'll let the video speak for itself! This set in particular is difficult to find with the box, and especially a complete box, so I'm happy I was able to get one in this condition. -Reker1000000
  2. Reker1000000

    My annual 12V layout

    Very, very impressive. It's rare to see a 12v layout on this level of scale and detail- what really makes it special for me is the amount of 12v train MOCs on the track! I love it, keep up the work!
  3. Reker1000000

    [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive

    Epic! Very similar to 7777- it looks like you used a similar design for the large articulated bogie in the back of the engine. Still getting parts to build the engine from 7777 myself - I suppose I have all of the rare parts but I'd have to steal most from my copy of 7750 and either 7730 or 7810 for the other 2 1x2x2 windows. Do you have plans to get the rare windows for your engine? Also, does it have (or you planning to add) lights? Looks like you could fit a prism in the tender and possibly a brick in for the boiler light. I think you would have to modify the construction of the front if you wanted to add a prism for the 2 small lights.
  4. Reker1000000

    [MOC] 12v Crocodile Engine

    Excellent locomotive! I like the integration of simple (80s) building techniques with more complex modern ones, for example the sides of the main cabin. A bit of an unrelated question- is it difficult to get 12v trains in Japan as well? I know 12v is scarce and hard to get in the US, and I've heard of almost no one running 12v in Japan.
  5. Reker1000000

    12v Layout #9

    Slightly dead topic, but part 2 is out now, featuring 7730 and 7745 with 7810 + 7865.
  6. Reker1000000

    12v Layout #9

    Hello EB, Just a quick post about Layout 9, which I just posted Part 1 of to YouTube. I actually designed this in BlueBrick before building it physically, which was quite fun and allowed me to finalize the design without having to rebuild the track after it was set up. Part 1 features 7740, 7750, 7810 (motorized with 7865), and 7820. Also, I found a way not only to put the weights in the front and back of 7810 (previously I had them both in the back which made it back-heavy and it would detail going over curves too fast), but also add lights to the front! It's not the prettiest solution as the light brick is partially exposed, but I'll take that if it has lights. The layout has a long passing line and a complex switchyard, which I put a lot of thought into. It has 2 stub-end sidings, each secured by a signal, and a decoupling area where engines can deposit wagons to be picked up and then drive to the stub-end sidings. Remote shunting is so cool... I added some custom buffers to the ends of each track that has no connection on one end. At some point I'll order parts for nicer buffers based off of 7777 but for now these ones will do. I installed lights in both stations (7740's platform has custom double light posts) and the control tower for 7866, which look good at night (hint: there will be a video of the layout at night). This might be the first time that I actually did good cable management, you can see that I installed custom "brackets" on the near side of the layout to hold all of the extra cable, as I use the original ones which are almost always not the right length- either too long and there's extra, or too short and I have to extend it with a spare cable (and then there's extra). Some of those brackets are stuffed full of cables since I just ran the extra ones up and down the row of brackets... cabling was definitely the most time-intensive part of the layout but I think the final result looks much better than having a bunch of extra wires all over the layout, so I will probably do this more in the future. I'll update this thread when I upload more videos about Layout 9. Without further talk, here is part 1- I hope you enjoy!
  7. Hello EB, For those of you that watch my videos, today marks one year since the beginning of my channel. I reconstructed Layout 1 from the original video, reshot all the clips (with some minor changes, but as close to the originals as possible), edited everything, and re-made the first video I uploaded, Layout 1. Just a small layout featuring 7745 and 7730, as those were the trains I had at this time last year. Anyways, I hope you enjoy this short video!
  8. Reker1000000

    12v motor repair

    Yep! I figure, if they're already broken then you can't lose anything by opening them up, and you may even be able to repair them. Ah, it's not the motor housing that's broken, both are in good condition- it's a small plastic piece in the DC motor itself... as XG BC said, I could attempt to 3D print the commutator, but that might be difficult since in addition to having to print such a small part (and it must be strong!) I'd have to reinstall the metal pieces and find a way to get the worm gears and original commutator off of the motor axle. I'm done with motor repairs for now but maybe in the future I'll see what I can do about repairing those- or if I happen to come across a cheap lot of broken motors on eBay or something, I'll keep my eyes peeled...
  9. Reker1000000

    12v motor repair

    Hello Eurobricks, This is a post I've been excited to complete for a long time. I have scoured the Internet for information regarding opening/repairing a 12v motor, and found 2 excellent posts on Eurobricks a while back, but didn't have the supplies to do it myself. At this point, I have a pretty good collection of 12v train motors- 2 red and 3 black functional (and in sets), and another 1 red and 1 black broken/spare, both of which I had received in that condition. I had been holding on to the broken red one for a while, but only recently received the broken black one, which upped my count of broken motors to 2. Some of my other motors have some minor problems as well, such as worn contacts, hair wrapped around an axle, and one had a stripped axle that had little torque. This increased my motivation to open both nonfunctional ones up, see what was wrong, and hopefully repair one or both of them. A couple weeks ago I decided to take the plunge and even though I was still lacking information I purchased the supplies that would hopefully be adequate- these being: 1) Razor blades for opening the motor(s) (I purchased a case of 10 replacement blades for shaving razors at CVS which you will see in the video- any type of blade similar to this should work, as long as it's very sharp) 2) Lubricant- I used synthetic PTFE grease- for relubricating the worm gears and axles (link to what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3? and no it's not affilate) 3) Super glue for reassembly of the motor(s) (link to what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Liquid-5-Gram-Longneck-230992/dp/B000BQMQJQ/ref=sr_1_2? and again no it's not affilate) I also made a custom jig out of Legos to hold a motor while I opened it, which are covered in-depth during the video, and I had rubbing alcohol and a rag on hand to clean the internals of the motor(s). After opening the broken red one up by breaking the seal of glue with the razor blade while the motor was in the jig and then disassembling everything, I concluded that there were several things wrong with it: -The wiring disc's solder had broken and the disc itself had snapped in half, leaving it loose in the motor -One axle had a cracked plastic gear, which was no longer holding to the axle allowing it to spin freely with little connection to the motor itself -Worst of all: The commutator had melted. This is a vital piece that transfers electricity from the 2 metal blocks labeled "A" and "B" to the actual DC motor in the center. As a result of running under too much load for too long, the motor had over time run hot too much and the plastic piece which should hold the metal parts (and wiring disc) in place was warped, wavy, and overall badly deformed. From everything I've found on the Internet, this is almost certainly unrepairable. I suppose I could attempt to melt the plastic and try to reform the commutator, but I don't have the equipment for that and would probably mess it up even more. The only way that it might be fixable is to find a replacement DC motor from a train hobby shop or something, but I've had no luck yet. There was a thread here a while back about replacement 12v motors and someone mentioned the Motraxx 265 or Motraxx 260- I checked the website and they can't be shipped to the US. So for now, I don't think a broken commutator is a fixable issue for me. If anyone here has details of a DC motor that is the same size and takes the same power, I would really appreciate it if you let me know- I could definitely use those. I proceeded to open the broken black motor and what do you know, it's the same issue. The commutator on this one was even more deformed- one of the metal plates had lost its connection to the plastic entirely. Plus the wiring disc had come unsoldered. So both broken motors are to my knowledge beyond repair without having to replace the DC motor itself. A valuable lesson to all owners of 12v motors: Do not run your motors under too much load. Maybe 3 long wagons in addition to a long engine (such as 7740 with 7815) for a single motor is probably the limit- any more and you will likely burn the motor out and cause irreversable damage which will render the motor unusable. If you run more wagons, you should use more motors. Here is where the story starts to take a turn for the better, though. About a year ago I had purchased a red motor as the one I originally got in my 7730 was broken (I sent it back to the seller for a partial refund). The replacement motor, I learned quickly, was basically only functioning on one axle. The other axle was not connected to the drivetrain, and I thought for a while that the plastic gear on it was stripped. Running on one axle is quite bad- the motor is slower, has less torque, and overall the resistance that the motor encounters is uneven. It's also very inconvenient for trains (like 7730!) with those nice connecting rods- because you have a good axle doing the work of both axles AND trying to "push" the bad axle through the connecting rods, the locomotive often got stuck on curves and points and the connecting rods would become misaligned often. I had been running it with the stripped axle for a long time. However, the good axle ran smoothly, so I suspected the DC motor inside was good. Because I had opened both broken motors and determined they're not getting repaired anytime soon, I had many spare parts- including a spare axle which I intended to swap into the red motor with the bad axle. So, I opened the red motor running in 7730, and I was correct- the DC motor inside was still in good condition. However, the the gear on the front axle, instead of being stripped like I originally thought, was cracked and like the first red motor not holding to the axle. No problem- I disassembled everything, cleaned it with alcohol, reassembled it with the bad axle replaced by a good one, and tested it with the transformer to make sure it worked (it did!). I then put lubricant on: -Motor axle (just a small amount with a paper towel, so it would spin smoothly on the rectangle plates that held it) -Metal worm gears on the motor axle and plastic gears on the wheel axles -Wheel axles ends inside the bearing sleeves Everything was then reassembled inside the bottom part of the motor housing. I applied a small amount of super glue to the outside of the bottom part of the motor housing to prepare for re-gluing. This ensured that when I put the 2 parts of the housing together, all excess glue would be pushed outside the motor and not inside. If the glue is pushed inside and dries there, you will probably have a very hard time opening it up again if needed, as super glue "welds" ABS plastic together. Finally, I pushed the top of the motor housing down and held it to ensure the glue dried. After a few tests, the motor was performing on par with my other motors and was running smooth! I would call that a success- even though I didn't manage to repair either of the broken motors, I was able to use parts from them to repair a third motor which was (before its repair) functioning questionably, and I learned a lot about the internals of a 12v motor. I should also say this: It was not as easy as I make it sound, I was working on the motors over the course of several days and it took a while to go through the process of opening them, cleaning the parts, troubleshooting, and repairing. That's not even mentioning the many hours I spent researching plastic-safe lubricants and types of glue that wouldn't damage ABS, plus the time spent gathering information on the motors themselves. It was particularly tricky to find out what types of lubricant and glue to use, but I think I managed OK as the motor runs smooth and is firmly glued after the repair. This post (and the video) are the result of a lot of work, and I hope that those who need this information can save a lot of time by reading/watching the content I have created. A picture is worth a thousand words- but a video is quite literally worth thousands of pictures. So, I have inserted a 20-minute YouTube video that I made below with most of this information plus more, and a thorough explanation of the internals of a motor. It also explains the custom jig that I made. I hope you got a lot of information from this post- I am all too aware that there is almost no information on the internals of these rare motors, so I contribute this post in the hope that it will be very useful to those who need this information down the road (or, down the 12v track ). I am hoping that the video is adequate for visual content, but I took photos as well during the repair and am happy to post them, if requested (it's just a bit tedious to post images here). For those of you that have been following my YT channel, tomorrow marks one year since I posted my first video, and I have some special content planned- if you haven't checked out my channel and are interested in 12v trains, be sure to drop by! And of course, if you have questions about the motor repair, I'm more than happy to answer them here or if you comment on any of my videos I will respond there. -Reker1000000-
  10. Reker1000000

    Lego 12v Layout 8

    Thank you! I try to get sets in top condition so sometimes I have to save a little more for them, but I think it's worth it in the end. For now, I don't have a plan for a permanent layout- I think I'd need more points/signals/decouplers and stations/freight loading depots to consider that. Also, I like being able to change the type of layout, or even clean everything off the tables and just rebuild the sets. Actually the buffer for a stub-end siding looks great, I definitely will buy the parts for one or two of those in my next small orders... it looks similar to the one in 7745's alternate model, but doesn't use the rarer hinges (2x2 LG brackets instead) to mount the 2x2 round plates. Thank you for the suggestion! I made a short unedited video of several trains circling the layout a few times- no music ( @BillytheKid finally the sound of 12v trains running!), only the trains. Behind the scenes video coming soon, and this week I'm going to hopefully repair my 2 broken motors and will definitely post content here and on my channel about that!
  11. Reker1000000

    7740 Inter-City Passenger Train: Review

    Ah, 7810? I believe that was the one they remade (as set 40370), although there may be another. That one is originally a push train- did you have it with a 12v motor installed? I've done that with my copy of the set, it's quite easy to upgrade. Yup! Hopefully next is a boxed copy of 7760 to complete the 1980 lineup, although I have to save up first... those aren't cheap, and I'd like to get mine at least with the inner tray.
  12. Reker1000000

    Lego 12v Layout 8

    Thank you! Glad to know that you are gaining something from watching my videos, as a content creator that is the most I could hope for from my viewers. I always love buying, running, and learning about these wonderful vintage trains, and want to do my part of helping people understand how they work and the little-known history behind them! Fair enough! Of course to each their own. As for buildings- I have many City sets from when I was younger (probably 2010-2013 or so)- but 1) they're all mixed in with my loose Legos and 2) I want to have era-appropriate sets in my videos, as after all Classic Town sets would be the best to accompany the 12v line. I am scouting for some of the freight loading depots and I may integrate a road system at some point but always trains first! I've still a ways to go in my collection, so actual buildings may not be for a while... boxed 7727 and 7755 especially are both expensive and rare, so I need to save for those and wait for a good listing to come up. Thanks again for all the nice comments from everyone! Part 2 of the series is out now! Linked below, like always.
  13. Reker1000000

    7740 Inter-City Passenger Train: Review

    Thanks for the comment! The set is indeed in great condition, just missing the tray lid. I wish I could give a better answer on what type of glue to use, but unfortunately I've had no experience whatsoever with repairing boxes beyond a small piece of transparent tape here and there. In the video below (Lego12vFan is an excellent channel, by the way- learned so much from him, and he posted useful and interesting content, it's a shame he stopped posting...) he mentions that the earlier boxes may have had some sort of wood glue- but again, I have no idea what type of glue Lego used originally. The red and yellow train doors? Yep, those are pretty cool- prints on mine are still in clean condition. The old trains just had so much more than the newer ones... longer passenger wagons, opening doors, detailed interiors, and so much more- and this is why in my opinion Lego will never top 12v trains! Hey Thorsten! Thanks for the comment. Wow, what a story... Glad you were finally able to get a nice copy of the set after waiting so long! And, a happy 60th birthday to you! In the end, you got married AND obtained the legendary 7740... I'd say that's a win on both counts Thanks again for all the nice comments. I'm happy my reviews/videos are informative and people are enjoying watching them!
  14. Reker1000000

    Lego 12v Layout 8

    Hello all, I wanted to share Layout 8 with you guys- this might be my best layout yet, it's got 2 passing lines and a unique design for the switchyard. Part 1, which I just uploaded, features the 7740 that I got recently along with 7745 and 7750 with 7820. @BillytheKid I know you requested without music but I always do music for layout videos, I might do a third video on this layout without music (part 2 will have freight trains)... music definitely helps the view count! I will link part 2 when it's out. Enjoy the video!
  15. Hello all, A couple days back I posted a review on my YT channel about the 7740. I'm sure many of you know that set- it's a very iconic train, right up there with the Metroliner and Super Chief. I wanted to share it here for anyone looking for new information on it, or if you have no idea what the 7740 is and want to learn a little about the 12v system and its most iconic train. Hopefully this video contains valuable knowledge for you!