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Found 363 results

  1. Well, i'm a small creator, but I want to make my creations public here, and like other creators I find it uneffective to create a new topic for every MOC, so, from now on, I will use only this topic to publish new creations. Here comes a new MOC: This is an alternative model for the set 42099 "4x4 X-Treme Off-roader". It's an off-road pickup, i call it "Turbo Pickup". I wanted to create a vehicle that didn't use the geared down wheel hubs available on the set, so that i could achieve higher speeds with less gears involved and consequently less friction, while at the same time designing something different from what is already available and this is what i came up with: an off-road racing pickup. It is RWD and the two rear wheels don't use the hubs, they're connected to a differential which has both XL-motors driving it one on each side. This uncommon setup surprised me with its strength and speed, the motors won't stall easily on this one, the picture below shows the motors setup, but watch the video at the bottom of the page to get a clearer idea. Physical characteristics: Length: 42cm / 53 studs Width: 23cm / 29 studs Heigth: 18cm / 22 studs Weight: 1,2Kg (with batteries) Functions: - Independent suspension on all wheels - Remote-controlled steering - Remote-controlled drive on the rear wheels: RWD Miscelanious aspects: - The final gear ratio from the XL motors into the rear wheels is 1,4:1 (my fastest alt model so far for this set). - The front axle ground clearance are 4 studs, and 6 studs on the rear axle. - Batteries can be easily swapped from below on this one. - The green button to turn on the PU hub is easily accessible on the driver's cabin. Check some real pictures below and the video at the bottom of the page: Feel free to share your thoughts. As usual, for anyone who fancys building this MOC, the instructions are available on my rebrickable.
  2. BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  3. Let me start by saying this MOC was not created from scratch, it was built on top of my freely available MOC "Power Functions Chassis", which is a budget RC chassis using just 86 parts. I wanted to show that even very simple chassis can be used to build interesting and detailed MOCs. When i started building i wasn't sure what type of car i would be creating, just something i haven't done before, so things started leaning towards some kind of muscle car; since i'm not an expert at this matter, i had to do some research and find what features distinguish this specific kind of car. This MOC is extremely compact and remote controlled using standard Power Functions components, this means the space left for details is very limited, anyway, i was able to implement a select number of details which are recognizable features of a muscle car, hopefully they are enough to make the MOC look like a muscle car: - A large body; the car is wide enough i think, but it should have been longer i guess (this may be a limitation from using the chassis as a starting point). - Hood scoop; the name says it all. - Side pipes; not all muscle cars have them, but this one was easy to add, so the exhaust is represented through the use of side pipes. - Fastback design; once again, not all muscle cars have it, but was very convenient to implement (to hide the battery pack), so here it is. Other trivial details include the driver and passanger seats, steering wheel, side mirrors, front grill, headlights, tail lights, front and rear bumpers. Since it is an RC vehicle, the only functions it has are the motorized driving and steering. It can be turned on or off from below through the use of a liftarm connected to the battery pack. If you check the chassis page this MOC was built upon, you'll notice the steering is powered by a servo motor controlling a rack; and a single PF l-motor is driving the rear wheels with a 1:1 ratio and no differential; for this MOC, i modified this section, making the l-motor drive just one rear wheel (to facilitate the steering) with a gear ratio of 1:1.67, which makes it really fast, but can only be played with on smooth floor and no slopes. Race version: The fact of having no differential and just one of the rear wheels pushing the car may put some people off, because of that i created a "Race" version of this MOC, which features a rear differential powering both wheels of course, as such, the gear ratio also changed to 1.4:1, lowering its speed, but increasing the torque, so this version can take on slopes, it also has a different color scheme and slightly different aesthetics. For anyone interested, the building instructions are available on rebrickable: the original version has 435 pieces spread over 63 steps, and the race version has 441 pieces spread over 62 steps, so you will be connecting an average of 7 pieces per step on either version. What does the community think of this MOC?
  4. Hello Train Tech! I haven’t been here for a while, but I have been building trains! I recently came across an old thread on the Boston and Albany 4-6-6T suburban tank engine, and I saw a comment about its smaller sibling. Well, I am here to share not one, but two suburban tank engines, including the aforementioned 2-6-6T, which I still consider one of my best models to date. To make things as confusing as possible, the NYC called both of these engines D-2a, though not at the same time. The 1912 D-2a (2-4-4T) went out of service shortly before the 1928 D-2a (2-6-6T) changed names. Both engines can navigate all R40 geometry and are much more buildable and usable than my first suburban tank attempt, though the 2-4-4T has to use Powered Up due to size limitations. The two videos at the end go into more detail about each engine and build.
  5. Hello, folks! Without long introduction - here are all my brickheadz so far (more than half are new, others - you could see them, but they have been slightly reworked). Note for mobile users - there will be many pics to load for your device. All building instructions are free. I'll add some comments by the way, but pics should do better :) 1) Newlyweds - kinetic model Animation (it may take some time to load): What is love? Baby don't h.. Hm, that's not what should have been said :) This couple celebrates their marriage with great dance. By the way, almost 22000 ukrainian couples got married since the beginning of the war in Ukraine. Love and peace will win! This model is driven manually by rotating a gear in back of the stand and can be motorised if you connect any motor you have to it. Given that the stand, groom and bride are separate models that work together, you can re-insert the bride and groom to make them rotate in the range you want. It also means you can use this stand to make your own brickheads "dance" as long as they have similar structure (all internal mechanics). Free building instruction: Rebrickable 2) Ukrainians A brave cossack; his younger brother; beatiful girl - they all can be the symbols of Ukraine. Let's take a closer look: This brave cossack has an earring in the left ear. Years ago it meant he was the one and only son of his mother. He wears traditional cossack pants - "sharovary" and traditional shirt - "vishivanka". Also, his hairstyle is called "oseledets" or "chub". Animation: Young girl. She also wears traditional combination of jacket and an embroidered skirt. Her flower wreath with colored ribbons is a symbol of youth and girlhood. Animation: Baby cossack - a symbol of ukrainian kids. Animation: Free buiding instructions: Rebrickable 3) Iron man with glow effect Animation: To use him as a pocket defender or just as a nightlight - it's up to you) It's a rework of set #41604, if you already have it - that's at least 40% of needed parts. You can use any PF-compatible power source to make it glow (such as 8881, 88000, 8878 and others). Free building instruction: Rebrickable 4) Ghost rider with glow effect Animation (without a chain): When it's cold, when it's dark, when there is no hope... Here is our hero - he brings light, warmth and hope for better times! You can use any PF-compatible power source to make it glow (such as 8881, 88000, 8878 and others). Free building instruction: Rebrickable 5) Polar four It's not just a company of polar habitants - it's a family: dad, mom, son and a cute bear cub in a sweater that, I bet, behaves and is perceived as a second son :) Animation: Animation: Animation: Animation: Also, you can build a silmplier and less parts-hungry version of a bear cub (without embroidery on the sweater): Free building instructions: Rebrickable 6) Popeye the Sailor Animation: Give this guy a spinach - and he will do an impossible! Free building instructions: Rebrickable 7) Athlete Animation: For all the lovers of fitness, dark glasses and pants with stripes :) Free building instructions: Rebrickable 8) Wolverine Animation: Friendly, polite, gentleman - all this is not about him. Strong, incredibly hardy, an excellent fighter - that's him! Now he can be your personal Jesu... bodyguard! :) Free building instructions: Rebrickable 9) Batbaby Animation: I'm sure he will nicely fit into the Batman's universe. Free building instructions: Rebrickable 10) Antique warrior Animation: A brave warrior is ready to protect you! Free building instructions: Rebrickable 11) Lumberman Animation: This guy never worries about the thickness of logs and about your problems. Free building instructions: Rebrickable 12) Kitten Animation: This tiny kitty will love you at first sight! Free building instructions: Rebrickable 13) Kiddy Animation: Just don't take the steering wheel from him and he will be ok!) Free building instructions: Rebrickable 14) Lifesaver Animation: "Ok, I get it. Everything will be fine, don't worry!" - lifesaver. Free building instructions: Rebrickable 15) Buddy Animation: He's a good friend of mine. From now - yours too!) Free building instructions: Rebrickable 16) Leeloo Animation: Free building instructions: Rebrickable 17) Sheriff Animation: “Dude, did you do all this mess in this room? I have questions for you! ”- sheriff. Free building instructions: Rebrickable Thank you for your patience attention! :D
  6. Full RC Conversion of 10269 Harley Davidson Fatboy After many hours of trial and error, broken bits and gray hair I have finally a working Remote Controlled Harley. And it actually works wery well and are not more fragile than the orginal set. My goal was to create a slower motorbike that you can play with in your living room, so self balancing was not an option as this requires high speed to work. My bike runs on "training wheels" all the time that leans at the same time as the handlebar stears. Have tried my best to hide the electronics an keep it as close looking as possible to the orginal set. Motorized wtih Buwizz/CaDa battery to save space and Power Functions motors. Youtube Video Instructions available at Rebrickable
  7. This racer has rear wheel drive, without a diferential to avoid becoming stuck on slight ground changes. The default gear ratio is 1:1,667 which means it can run really fast if you give it space, but isn’t able to take on slopes, you can change the gears if you so wish when building, there is space for that. It is by no means a mechanical wonder but features what is called a “realistic pivot steering”, which means the front wheels don’t travel back and forth while turning, this allowed me to design the hood very close to the tires without the problem of colliding and causing friction, and it also allows for a very good turning radius. Main functions: -One l-motor powers both rear wheels with a ratio of 1:1,667 to make it run forward or backwards. -One servo motor controlls the ralistic pivot steering mechanism with an excellent turning radius. It's a nice MOC for some quick fun. Please feel free to leave your opinion in the comments. As usual, for anyone interested, building instructions and parts list are available at MocsMarket
  8. I made the 2021 LEGO 76240 Batman Tumbler drive (again) and upgraded the looks to be more real. full remote controlled motorization (drive and steer) independend suspension (front: moving liftarms!) moving front armour plates as in movie retractable roof complete do-over of side armor plates: finaly polygons very close to the movie (not flat as LEGO did it) front gunner seat "hydraulics" finally as in movie winglets fixed on both ends now (no loose parts as from LEGO) Mind the Gap - closed that gap between the rear tires (i think in danish LEGO rhymes on lazy ;) Instructions on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-95123 I already did this with the 2014 version. Actually it was my first LEGO set in years. But I was never really happy with this. There were still too many flaws (as with the 2021 version) This time i wanted it to look more close to the original, finally. So I upgraded the armour and some other details a bit, to fix LEGO's little flaws. This is the LEGO Tumbler Batmobile, I always wanted.
  9. Hello everyone, let me introduce my latest creation. Ever since I get 42093 corvette I had an idea to disassemble it and use all this parts to create something playable and offroad capable. This 1:15 model of legendary F-150 truck was made with Power Functions elements and Sbrick for future truck trial competion or just for indoor fun (because of the weight (1250 g) I think this is not very competitive truck). It was a long project for me because of time constraints so I had started it before LEGO release their bigger one. This model has 4WD transmission with 2 L-motors driving each axle separetly (driving ratio - 3,5:1), servo motor for steering. Front suspension is independent double wishbone, rear is live axle with panara link. The model has openable doors, sunroof, hood and tailgate. Instructions in pdf were made in Stud io (my first experience with this software so it took a long time). Link for instructions: https://reb.li/m/93403 Also I created some additional color options with available parts. I hope to add instructions for those and the video with the orignal orange one later.
  10. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  11. I guess you could say I couldn't make up my mind about the kind of Unimog I wanted to make next. So I decided to make a platform that would support multiple versions. Features: Interchangeable platform Long and short wheelbase options Standard and Doka cabs, removable Manual control PF control (drop in) Front and rear suspension Steering 4x4 with I-4 fake motor Opening doors and hood Tipper bed options Feel free to check out thirdwigg.com to learn more about the build. Manual SWB with tipper bed. Manual LWB Doka with tipper bed. Power Functions (XL drive, Servo steering) LWB with cover. Manual LWB with canvas bed showing the suspension travel. You can find more pictures on my flickr. I have been adding instructions for the various versions here, and more will be added over the coming weeks. Someday I'll make a camper, because, everyone needs a camper. This was a fun project, and I loved the way it turned out. I have the LWB on my desk right now, and I keep getting distracted from work. I hope to add additional options for the system at some point, and will take other suggestions for versions to add. Hope you enjoy.
  12. I bought a set from bricklink a while ago and tested out the electronics, only to find that they were acting really strange. I'll try to explain it is as clear as possible but i may mess up a bit. So the set came with 4 motors, one of each kind, XL, L, M and Servo, and these all work perfectly fine on my own battery packs and recievers. But now i hook them up to the included recievers, so XL on red, L on blue, but then only the XL motor works. Now i'll switch them arround, but yet again it's only the XL motor that works, but now on the red channel. The L motor does function correctly when hooked up to a different reciever or straight to a battery pack. Further testing shows the XL motor works on all my recievers, both red and blue channels. The L motor works on 2 out of 4 recievers but only on either red or blu side, not both sides on the same reciever The Servo motor worked on none. And the M motor worked on 3 out of 4, also on just one side per reciever, either red or blue. And again all the motors work directly on the battery pack, or when hooked up to known good reciever. So what's going on here? How does one motor work on a reciever, but another does not? Can i throw away the motors or are the recievers at fault here? It's really frustrating because i am in the midst of making a deal with the seller aswell, but i can't without knowing exactly what's broken. It's like the recievers are picky in which motors they want to actuate and which ones not, but how's that even possible?
  13. I got the Ecto for christmas and I felt the urge to squeeze in some remote controlled Motors. The new Powered Up have just the thing (although they are badly documented) One month after christmas I had it up and running. Tell me what you think. • quasi invisible • minimal invasive - all gadgets work • Battery replacement with no dissambling • light and sound kit still fits in • Lego POWERED UP Bluetooth Remote Control • no discontinued Power Functions • complete Instructions on rebrickable I made my first video about that: For this motorization I used LEGO's Powered Up Large Technic Motor for steering. That thing is just made to be used for the steering. It can act like a servo, because it has an internal position sensor. It is slim and dark bluish gray so it replaces that kardan drive below the front seat perfectly. Aditionally I didn't want to take it appart every time I change the batteries, so you can reacht it from the bottom.
  14. Welcome to Feel Good Island! This is your Captain DoubleBU speaking. Thank you for chosing Air "Feel Good Island" for your trip. We're ready for take-off in about 10 minutes, so please switch off your mobile phones and fasten your seat belts. During your flight with us you can experience and enjoy the following features: - Power Functions as well as (switchable) manual mode - Many rotating/moving elements - Detailed environment (with some Easter Eggs) for nice display - Also a stable and heavy structure for heavy play - Accessible battery box withoutdisassembling the whole island, completely hidden inside the structure - A landing mode, optionally with or without the specially designed tensegrity stand. - A tensegrity stand that very stably supports the island in a floating position but also allows you to easily pick it up for play. For further information please refer to our brochures "Feel Good Island" or "Tensegrity Stand" right in front of you. Thank you very much for your attention and I wish you a pleasant flight...!
  15. This is an expansion, upgrade and update of the Tiger 4 x 4 x 4 The idea was to improve certain aspects of the 4x4 version: 1. The bewel gears were the weak part of the driveline, so the 6x6 uses additional 12:20 gearing after bewel gears, increasing available torque by 67% 2. Adding a second rear axle additonally helps to spread the load while climbing, increasing available overall torque by another 50%, allowing for a total of 2,5x more torque than 4x4. 3. Using defender wheels, and self-built hubs the pivot point is now a stud closer to the steering wheel and steering angle is increased from 18 to 25-30 degrees, removing the need for rear steering. 4. Center section was widened by 2 studs, allowing both gearboxes to be placed in parallel and the steering servo motor low in the center. Total gear reduction has been increased to 1:5 in high gear and 1:15 in low gear. Gear switching mechanism is now faster and more reliable. 5. Suspension is now pendular with a shock absorber in front and tandem axles with shock absorbes in the back. This allows the suspension to smoothly adjust to the terrain at slow speeds without wasting energy compressing the shock absorbers. At high speeds the shock aborbers smooth out the ride. In the picture below you can see the blue 1x7 beams which swing and allow the front suspension to act like pendular: 6. The model now has working fake engine(s) and steering wheel.I'm thinking of adding a hook arm with a winch in the back, so I can use this model to pull others out during trial truck races 7. Number of motors have been reduced by removing rear wheel steering and having one motor for the gearbox, allowing to add aditional functions as before mentioned hook arm. So...that's all about it for now, I'm only missing defender wheels to finish this monster. Yes it's going to be heavier and slower, but I expect it to be even more capable and reliable.
  16. Does anyone know of an app or application that works with the old ev3 Mindstorms and technic power functions?
  17. Hello My first post here. Found some posts regarding the comparison of Powered Up (PU) and Power Functions (PF), but it was rather related to Technic. Couldn't find any similar for trains. So I am considering to buy 60198 Lego Cargo Train which is powered by Powered Up. However, I read here about PU system that it is inferior to PF system, as considering it in LEGO Technic. So how it is in the Trains department? As far as I see: PF for trains has remote IR intutitive controller with two knobs; for A channel and B channel with max. 8 trains to control (with 4 controllers). Additionally battery box and seperated IR recevier is needed. PU has bluetooth remote controller, so clunky smartphone control can be omitted? But is PU remote controller in any point inferior to older PF controller? PU battery box has embedd bt receiver so less space is needed inside the locomotive, so it seems its better (less flexible though?) Coming back to 60198 buying consideration; I saw some offers of used PF systems for trains (separated or with a locomotive), but they are quite pricey: 55 EU for control set, and 100EU with control+locomotive (from 60052 or 7939 set). So is it better to buy this new set with PU or invest into older used (but better?) PF sets? Kind regards
  18. While looking to buy a PF V2 receiver (58123bc01) I realized that it is only in 9398 and 41999 (both 4x4 crawlers), but is not in later sets like 42030 and 42065. I have been confused by this because I thought that it was suppose to replace the old receiver (58123c01). One thing I thought was that the insides were changed but they didn't have V2 printing, but why I don't know. Hopefully someone knows what's going on!
  19. Hi everyone, I've finished trying to RC my 42043 and it seems that the PF L motor has issues providing sufficient power to drive the set? I obtained instructions from the creator of this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpP_05uxKqs&t=22s&ab_channel=PawełWojnarowski) and also checked PPUNG DADDY's 42043 RC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8easq7ueIo&ab_channel=PPUNGDADDY(뿡대디)-LEGOTECHNICRC), both used an L motor with no problems. Here's a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/J8P13WLPzN8. As you can see in the video, the motor loses power after driving for some time, eventually being unable to drive at all. The problem is worsened when I try to drive and steer at the same time, it's almost impossible to drive and turn. I have tried swapping the tyres around, changing batteries, trying a V1 and V2 IR receiver, switching positions of the motor and servo cables, and using a new L motor. But the problem still persists. Here's a photo of the L motor: Could it be because of excess friction introduced in the rear axles during construction? Because I noticed when I lifted up the rear axles, the motor spins the wheels at its standard rpm, BUT only 1 wheel on each axle spins, the other is stationary. Then when the wheels contact the floor, the motor suddenly seems to struggle with driving the thing. Hence I was thinking could it be that I built the differential too "tightly"? Appreciate any help from the technic experts in this forum, thanks in advance!
  20. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! Dodge Challenger 2008 SRT Hello everyone It's the first of August and I'm in a hurry to share with you another project! This time I collected the younger Dodge) And this is the third car of this brand in my garage! Description: - Drive - 1 Buggy motor - Steering - Servo - Nutrition-Small BB - Brain RC brik - Independent front suspension - Rear suspension bridge with four-point mounting - The steering wheel turns with wheels - Open the doors, hood, sunroof - Well-designed interior and under-hood space - About 2000 parts Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/dodge-challenger-2008-srt Enjoy your viewing! Rate, comment! Thanks!)
  21. A compact sequential heavy-duty 4 speed remote controlled AWD gearbox Each gear of this remote controlled gearbox approximately doubles the speed of the previous. The output shaft contains an integrated lockable differential for AWD. See the video for a WORKING DEMO | FREE INSTRUCTIONS below. GEAR RATIOS 1st 6:1 2nd 3.3:1 3rd 1.8:1 4th 1:1 FEATURES compact remote controllable sequential gearbox 4 transmission speeds evenly distributed gear ratios differential output (AWD) differential lock single rotary catch many mounting points no half studs INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] https://bricksafe.com/files/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox---with-perfect-gear-ratios/remote-controlled-4speed-awd-gearbox-with-differential-lock.pdf [3D MODEL] https://bricksafe.com/files/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox---with-perfect-gear-ratios/remote-controlled-4speed-awd-gearbox-with-differential-lock.io REBRICKABLE: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-83457/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox-with-perfect-gear-ratios BRICKLINK: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=244834
  22. Hey guys, some time ago, I have coded an app for controlling Lego PF using the IR diode of your Android phone. It didn't really work well, but since this time I have learned a lot about programming and made a new app for you. It is a BETA version, but I hope that there will be no issues with it. Before installing this app please google whether your phone has an IR blaster, this app won't work on devices without an IR blaster (physically not possible). The channelswitch is not working right now, but I will add this feature soon. I would be happy about some feedback from you! APK: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R9LNj8mhx34Bkn0A7t8wN3RFn3g6LDQC/view?usp=sharing (do not wonder this app doesn't have an icon yet! When you have an idea for it, let me know!) Screenshots:
  23. Hey folks, another Motorization: all Functions of the 1989 Batmobile (LEGO 76139) RC controlled - yep the Batman again... Without sacrificing any of the nice details: Cockpit is still there, steering wheel works, just all motor driven and I motorized the guns and the roof and even made a tailored sbrick profile. Building instructions: Motorized LEGO 1989 Batmobile on rebrickable Driven by 2 LEGO Power Functions L-Motors (1:1 transmission) steered by a LEGO Power Functions Servo Motor guns engaged/disengaged by Motor roof opened/closed by Motor special Sbrick profile with programmig and grafics included a lot of space for up to 2 battery boxes/control hubs easily reachable under the trunk hatch (details on my rebrickable MOC page) Watch a Review of my motorized 1989 Batmobile on youtube: The Batmobile from Tim Burton's Batman 1989 with Michael Keaton is definitely one of the coolest, it's not as funky as the 1960s TV version and not as tank as the Nolan version but in my opinion it's simply a beaute! The 1989 Batmobile is using over 3,300 pieces, and over 60cm long. I added a few hundred bricks, mainly LEGO Technic and reused some others. So I ended up with over 3500 parts and (batteries included) almost 3.5 kg. That's heavy! So I needed a powerfull drive. I was thinking about the buggy motors but these are large and I wanted to put the batteries into the trunk. So i went for a pair of LEGO Power Functions L-Motors. These are some of the strongest LEGO motors and very small and efficient for their power and speed. The 1989 Batmobile is sleak and lies very deep on the road so it is geometrically impossible to move up any small hills (or even carpets). It will get stuck with its floor height of less then a brick. So it will only drive on a flat surface anyway. So it can be build for speed instead of torque power which the 1:1 transmission of the two L-Motors will do: It's a speed build, literally. One reason to put the batteries into the trunk was, to reach it easily for changing/recharging or simply switching on. Another reason was, to not put them into the beautifull cockpit with its nice self opening windshield - self opening? Yes, now it is motor driven ofcourse. And you hardly see the mechanics on the floor. Okay, the Batman minifigure included is way too small for the car but I found a Batman LEGO LED light, that fits into the car. Just be carefull when closing the cockpit to not get stuck. Slide-open is no problem. The car’s turbine exhaust by the way does not drive the machine guns anymore (it does in the original) because now a motor engages them. So I could make the jet exhaust it look like a real jet engine - the only exterior I changed. To make the two machine guns hidden, under the hood pop up, just press a button now. The Batmobile comes with nice little Bat emblems printed on the wheel rim - try not to lose them while driving, they are rare parts. The set of specially designed tyres for the front wheels is steered in a very specific geometry. I took care to keep that working the exact same way because it works very well for steering. The Build was complicated, took me weeks to get it right. I didnt want to change the exterior and as few as possible from the cockpit. You shouldnt see the opening mechanics. And I wanted to have all the features working, even the steering wheel (though steering is handled by a servo motor now) Every time I thought I got it, something else made problems, untill finally it all worked out. You can skip the trial and error (and breaking old LEGO gears) part: I made instructions and made them easily readable, so you can have it speed build in no time. I believe everyone should be able to build a LEGO set and try to make my instructions like that. Now it's hard to say, which one is the best batmobile motorization I ever made: The Lego 76139 1989 UCS Batmobile has more functions: motor driven MGs and a motor driven roof, the remote controlled motorized Lego 76023 UCS Tumbler I modded however has a full steerable front suspension for the independen wheels. my special Sbrick profile with some automated scripts is included I even made a cable layout for the power functions cables and extentions if you ended down here you may also be interested in or
  24. You can find a sneak preview od the 3D printed sample on our IG: https://www.instagram.com/p/CLAKIt3B0PG/ Performance is around 10% faster RPM and torque compared to the 5292 motor (cca 20% more power). The polyfuse protection will be increased from 0,9 A to around 1,35 A - still testing the balance between performance and longetivity. Improved attachment possiblities, everything fits as it should in the studless building system The final version color will be between LGB and DBG. It will come with a 30 cm long PF cable plug, so it's compatible with BuWizz 2.0 and PF. Preorder here: https://buwizz.com/shop/buwizz-motor/ More info when it becomes available.
  25. Hi there as nobody else yet presented a PF mod of the 42109 car (@ozacek?), I gave it a try yesterday afternoon/evening and did a quick & dirty PF mod. The result is a replica that's not totally identical in all details but comes very close to the original from the outside with considerable changes on the chassis. Differences: * Very obvious, the colors, but that was not important for the intended task. Initially I wanted to build it in red and black, but soon switched to orange and black and later just ignored the colors to save time when searching the needed parts - I have two many models built ATM and hence am low on some essential parts in the initially desired colors. The upcoming digital model(s) will use (a) more pleasing color combination(s). * The beam connecting both sides of the cockpit was moved 1 stud forward and was constructed differently to hold the PF AA battery box in place * As I couldn't find a position for the PF Servo motor that is low enough that the hood can be closed as much as in the original 42109, I used a 1 x 9 bent liftarm to fix the hood at an elevated position, imitating the look of a huge hood scoop. This way the hood is kept shut very tightly btw. * I used curved 11 x 3 panels with 2 pin holes for the side skirts, as I find them visually more pleasing then what was used in the original 42109. * The chassis is somewhat different: Instead of 11 x 7 frames I used 7 x 5 frames as I don't have 11 x 7 frames yet; 8L axles with stop for each rear wheel - so the axles can't be pulled out, but the wheels can still get loose, though I haven't seen this yet during driving and some other minor differences. The car doesn't use a differential but drives each rear wheel with a single PF L motor. Power Functions parts used: * 2 x PF L motor * 1 x PF Servo motor * 1 x PF IR V2 receiver - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF IR remote control - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF AA battery box - optional (not needed with BuWizz) [* 1 x PF control switch - actually not really needed, if the drive lines are set up in a way that both PF L motors can run in the same direction (not needed with BuWizz)] I.e. the PF equipment that came with the 9398 - not that I have one. Enough talking/writing, here are three shots, digital model(s) will come later: Using a BuWizz instead of the PF remote control equipment saves a lot of space and weight and will make this car faster. So far I haven't used it with fresh AA batteries but only with used AA batteries and a BuWizz and even in normal mode the car seems to be quicker, not to speak of fast and ludicrous modes, where the wheels start slipping on carpet and laminate floor when going backwards at full speed in fast mode or both ways at full speed in ludicrous mode.