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Found 121 results

  1. Hi, Can someone please tell me if there is a practical maximum hose length for a Lego pneumatic system? The application I have in mind is for ‘remote switching’ of a railway track point. The track point is ~1500mm from where I want the switch. I presume I would be best to use 3rd party hose at these lengths. I’ve tried to search for an answer, but nothing has turned up. Can anybody here help? thanks david edit: ps, I am probably going electrical, but just thought I’d consider a pneumatic solution, though it appears in any case parts for that may be difficult to source.
  2. Hi everyone, For the past year, I have been working on this MOC, making very slow progress mostly due to a lack of time. About a month ago, I finally reached the point where I considered it finished. It's not perfect and many things can be improved, but I am happy with the current state. Enough to finally make some pictures and a video. The MOC is based on the Manitou TMT 25S. It is a hydraulic forklift, one that hooks on back of trucks, but uses an unusual design. A picture from the original: It also combines some interesting hydraulic functions which I tried to carry over to my model. In the end, this is the list of functions I managed to implement: Manual steering, control placed at the back, behind the cabin - rear wheel goes 360 degree. Pneumatic compressor using an M motor and two pumps Electric switch to control the compressor Pneumatic functions for: Boom elevation Boom Extension Fork control Front outriggers Boom lateral adjustment Initially, my intent was to have an auto switch for the compressor. However, after many trials, I could not calibrate it properly so that enough pressure remained in the circuit to control all functions properly. The switch would not always return in position when the pressure was dropping, making some functions such as raising the boom unusable. So I replaced the assembly with a manual switch which can easily be controlled when air is required. To smooth out the functions, I used an air tank which is hidden below the control valves in the back. Overall, the functions are working well. The main issue is the control of the fork, which really needs better smoother valves to have finer control. Also, since it is pneumatic, It does not maintain its position when elevating or lowering the boom. I could not find a way to do that while keeping the boom extension which is required. So here are the video and pictures. I hope you enjoy it. More pictures are visible on the BrickSafe folder:
  3. EDIT: Finished pictures and video: Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model 42053 is very nice set but I cannot justify buying it when I have all the necessary parts in my collection. In the end I tend to be dissapointed by the official sets due to my overexpectations. So I decided to build by own Volvo wheeled excavator. As usually I build in scale to blueprints, this time the setter wasn't wheels as usually, but length of the main cylinders. This is primary to achieve the best movement range of the arm. In the end the wheels 49,5mm fit precisely and the scale is (my usual) 21,5:1. Width is 15 studs like in the set, wheelbase is 15 studs as opposed to 17 studs in set. I want it to have 7 pneumatic features: 1) bucket emptying 2) arm movement 3) + 4) two piece boom 5) cabin lift 6) front blade 7) rear outridges Additional features: 8) front pendular axle, steered by HOG 9) superstructure rotation by knob I started with the arm and 2-piece boom. The bucket is by far the biggest drawback of the build with its poor shape and mounting points. I have considered other buckets (I have all TLG produced) but this is the best out of bad. Maybe I will try to build better one from bricks in the end. Everything in real machine is very thin when translated to my scale so the arm is build from technic bricks, arm is 1 stud wide with some plating on sides for looks. The two section boom was quite a challenge due to width. I started with dual thin cylinders at the base but they struggled to lift the boom when it was in full reach. The whole boom had to fit within 5 studs so the first section is actually 2 studs wide and second section is 3 studs wide. Fortunatelly it is not very visible because it is covered by cylinders. The arm movement range is very similar to real machine, the only angle that is smaller is between booms due to the length of the old pneumatic cylinder. The next step was undercarringe. This was quite difficult as well, mostly rear outridges. The range of movement for small cylinders is very low and it had to fit in very little space. The reach is not perfect but it is acceptable. They are weak as kitten of course, fron blade as well, but I wanted them operated with pneumatics. There is also drawball connector to mount trailer behind the excavator. The front wheels use my usual setup with small hubs for great turning radius and ackerman geometry. The disadvantage in this case is that the wheels are mounted "wrong" way, with the shallow part facing outwards as opposed to rear. I can live with that however, I just cannot build without ackerman anymore. Last thing I have is the cabin. It is also 6 studs wide as in the set and it is quite similar to that one but more detailed. I have added brick build front lights and some greeblings. The roof is supposed to be yellow of course, I don't have the bricks yet. I'm now working on body. WIP - Arm reach WIP Arm folded WIP - Arm reach upper WIP - Arm reach lower WIP - Cabin WIP - Cabin
  4. So, @Fieldtest requested a device to link two of the large V2 pneumatic actuators together, end to end. this is what I came up with, and it is so potentially helpful that I thought it would be worth sharing in its own topic. Pneumatic Cylinder Connection by Saberwing007, on Flickr It's pretty easy to make, but it was a real pain to figure out, because Lego, in their infinite wisdom, made some of the dimensions not a whole number of studs, which is really odd for them. Thus, this build needed some very illegal connections in order to work and be stiff. I've also got some more construction pics: Step 01 by Saberwing007, on Flickr IMG_20171214_180212047 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Step 03 by Saberwing007, on Flickr There you go, I hope you all find this to be useful.
  5. Dear fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am in dire need of some help from you folks who are definitely more knowledgeable than I. In this case, I am needing help with the replication of the RMS Titanic's Reciprocating Engines and Turbine. I am in the midst at the moment of working on the project below, though I have not updated it in a great while due to university work. See this link here for the project thread. But this is a minifig scale project, with every door, every window accounted for. This means that in regards to the engines, I am also seeking to make them at least somewhat true to scale and able to work as intended. Obviously this is a big job of some top notch Edwardian-era engineering, but I am hoping that there might be some out there not as technically-challenged (pun totally intended) as I am, willing to help me get this part of the project off the ground. Some of the features I I am looking for include a fully air-powered system, where the air supply would come from tanks hidden in the mock-boilers, that are then funneled at somewhat high pressure to the Triple Recip. Engines, which means that the pressure would go down as it goes through each cylinder (HP, IP, then two LPs). The leftover air at a much lower pressure then goes to a junction that can either go to the Parson's Turbine at what was historically 4 psi, or can go directly to the condensers. With the latter I intend just to make the outside of it and hide inside some custom compressors like this. That would then return to the original air supply. With this I am hoping that I will have a self-supplying system with ideally no more than 5% leakage, or enough compressors that leaks are compensated for. WIth the Parson's Turbine, that can be an accurate shell with whatever is needed inside to include a working turbine, and probably with an gearbox and ascending set of gear ratios to give it the necessary torque. These engines and turbine are meant to actually turn the propellers, perhaps even in water! Some other features would include a replica of the Brown-type reversing engine on the side of each of the Recip engines, making it so that the Stevenson-type eccentrics can change the direction of rotation. Considering the scale, the reversing engine doesn't technically have to be much more than a slightly-hidden piston that does the required job, but any more realism doesn't hurt. If something like this is possible, please let me know. I am really wanting to continue with this project, and this is a central part of it. But without the pieces in front of me instead of on a computer screen, what little I know of engineering definitely doesn't help without that tactile interaction. Thanks for your time, and I look forward to your replies! If it is possible, then I can follow up with the intended dimensions. Here are some references for any that wants some: View of turbine and condensers through wall from main engines rotor shaft model of port-side recip. engine overall basic view path of the steam of original, pressurized air for mine
  6. Hi all pneumatic lovers! I got a kit of pneumatics a while ago, but haven't fully used them. Today is the day I show where they are headed. This is built to teach other people about excavators and pneumatics. Pneumatic pump (exhaust pipe) Pneumatic arm lift (2x11) Pneumatic dipper & curl (1x11) Cabin Access to hoses Tracks Spinning turntable (infinite rotation) Hope you like it as much as i do, and here is a hand drawn sketch I Made specifically for it. before you ask, yes i reprinted it. Who doesn't want the original. And now the model: Panel removed: Reach capability: Love it or hate it, i would enjoy to here what you think!
  7. I would like to share my latest creation - 8x2 truck with crane. This is the picture that inspired me: I started with cabin and chasis and I was not sure what kind of truck I want in the end. I was sure about one thing - not to make overcomplicated build so 8x4 dump truck was on my mind for most of the time. But then I have seen a website with cranes and the one above is very nice so it was set. I love pneumatics so this was an obvious choice. I have of course took the picture as purely inspirational, this is not meant as exact copy. Features: 3 steered axles, each with different ratio and all of them with ackerman geometry - I just love the small ball joint hubs. 3rd axle drives fake V6 engine (1:3 ratio) cabin with openable doors, openable front grill and it can tilt to reveal engine extendable outridges (6 studs), all operated simultaneously by knob behind the cab and pneumatic foots. They can lift the whole truck but they bend under the weight. 3 section crane with extendable 3rd section and winch. The crane itself is quite powerful, the limit is the winch. Slew is controlled by knob behind the turntable. huge amount of tubbing, almost 3,5 meters IMGP5104 by Ivan Moc IMGP5107 by Ivan Moc IMGP5108 by Ivan Moc IMGP5111 by Ivan Moc IMGP5112 by Ivan Moc IMGP5114 by Ivan Moc IMGP5115 by Ivan Moc IMGP5116 by Ivan Moc
  8. NEWS of 12-11-2017: I have been invited by Ropa Maschinenbau, to join them at Agritechnica in Hannover Germany with my Ropa Maus 5, and my Ropa EuroTiger 4 XL, the coming Thursday and Friday the 16-17. in Hall 25, Stand G14. Come and have a look if you plan to visit this exhibition. Hi Guys, long time no see. Bondemand Clausen is back with some farming equipment. It is a Ropa Maus 5, which is used for cleaning and loading sugarbeets onto trucks or tractor wagons. This MOC is build in Scale 1:16, weighs 8 kilo. It has been presented at Lego World 2017, Copenhagen, and Skaerbaek Fanweekend 2017. First pictures shows the Machine in transport position. Unfolded and ready to work. It has 23 motors, 13 Servos, 2 XL, 3 L, 4 M and 1 Micro. They are controlled by 6 Sbricks, via Ipad. 10 of the servos controls pneumatic valves, powered by 4 pneumatic pumps. It has 11 pairs of PF LED lights. The real machine the Ropa Maus 4, Cleaning and Loading my Sugarbeets in 2013.
  9. Hi All, I know, I have unfinished projects enough (published here too), but time for another long-term build. I was lucky enough to find great deal on pneumatic cylinders, and finally I own Claas tires too, these caused to raise the Skidder-particle ppm in my haemodinamics. This is a very old plan of me, basically since I got back from my dark-age with the 8265 in 2009. So this is the plan: I will not build a specific model, but a generous one (610/620/630/632 mixed style), because I am not that much interested in specific models - simply: I love them all (and beside that I am afraid of @M_longer's justifiable criticism ). Finally I found a working design for the grapple with nice range of movement. It has virtual pivot points, and floating cylinder (this is already differs from real-life counterparts), but I wanted to use 1 cylinder only due to tubing - which should be nicely hidden in the boom panels. Some might be not a fan of the Bionicle parts, but I find them right here, and they tend to close properly due the lucky combination of build slack and their pointy-thin design (I might figure out an offset for them, but wasn't successful yet). I made a pure Technic version too, in case. This is how it looks so far (partly built in bricks too - waiting for parts), with Power Puller tires in the model for the scale: Still a very long trip ahead, and I am not fast on building, but I feel passionate, which is a promising sign I guess. Special thanks to: @Lipko for inspiration and for the pneumatic parts in LDD from his majestic Backhoe, @nikolyakov for the beautifully purpose designed and inspiring TC10 entry, @BrickbyBrickTechnic for his 42054 C-model as final motivation, and for Bricklink to make it feasible to emptying my wallet... Every suggestion, criticism for improvement is welcome.
  10. Ive just assembled the arocs mercedez truck. Wow its big but the pnematics dont work at all. Pumps on, slight movement but not enough power to lift anything. How does one know if the pump is putting out or mal functuioning or valve mal functioning. Im frustrated a bit. Seems at best the pneumatics system is weak to begin with. Do the little blue pumps often cause trouble. It is a new set. Thanx
  11. I am a fairly new member to the Lego community but have immediately been interested in LPEs. Here is my idea: Has anybody ever built or thought about powering a compressor with the engine itself. So instead of having a compressor powered by a PF motor, connect the crankshaft of the engine to it. This removes the need for the motor entirely. You will obviously need some sort of external pump to get the engine turning over as a start, similar to a starter motor. The other problem I have thought of is that it will create a never ending cycle of the engine going faster and faster and faster, assuming that the compressor can produce more air than the engine needs and vice versa. I currently do not have the resources to test this myself so any feedback would be amazing! Is this a stupid idea? Are there other things I haven't thought of? What are your thoughts on this project? Thanks!
  12. Yet another little excavator. Jono Rocky's model was great, but one main thing I wanted to add to that model was some functions to the undercarriage. Then Efferman started his Liebherr Compact 926 project and figured I could add another cylinder to Jono Rocky's arm. This is the result: As you can seen, also used the standard Liebherr colours. Yellow and DBG just happened due to the panels at the rear and the colour of pneumatic switches and I figured I'd use white for the cab instead of "yet another black cab". It isn't scaled to existing Liebherr though. Functions: - Full functional pneumatic arm - Pneumatic dozer blade on the undercarriage - "L2" engine (let's say it's a little "out of sync" though more on that later) - Full 360 degree turn with controls at the rear I was pretty surprised the blade holds the entire model up, especially after every single cylinder on the arm nagged about hoses not being the right length or in exactly the right position. If anybody has any suggestions to make the hoses less stiff (some kind of oil?), I'd love to hear it, because this was just stupid. These panels just screamed: use me here and never ever remove me from this place I added a second pump to the undercarriage so the superstructure could turn 360 degrees 1millmeter of play between the gears+axle and hoses I actually wanted to add another function: cabin lift, but besides having a lack of space behind the cab for this (hoses) it would have a serious negative effect on the support of the arm. So I dropped this idea. I didn't really like having the controls for the turntable stick out at the rear so much as this, but I had no room for other solutions. I tried lowering the "knob" one stud so it wouldn't have to be that long (it's this long so it doesn't collide with the superstructure while actually turning). I tried looking for a way to make a sliding mechanism, but there was simply no room. So I settled for this third option: removable and click it elsewhere on the body. I didn't try to close up the whole rear with tiles, mainly because the hoses ruin any type of mounting points available. On the other hand I like seeing a bit of "the guts". Especially when I spend quite a few evenings on these "guts" (hoses) to get it to work properly The L2 is poorly tuned In the space available my options were limited. I used @Attika's half pin solution for the fake engine, but these pins won't work with plates with a clip on top, because they can lock up on these pins. So I needed parts that were round on top. I could only think of this crankshaft part in the 2x2x2 studs space available. In this WIP you can clearly see the current situation: I added the 2L thin liftarm for the simple reason that I like the engine more going 2 up> 1 up> 2 up etc. than 2 up > nothing > 2 up. Neither option is realistic, so I chose what was most fun for me With his other pneumatic buddies: Some WIP pics That moment when you realise that your superstructure is 1 stud too long or your undercarriage 1 stud too short... I tried making the superstructure 1 stud shorter, but that would really hurt the rigidity of the arm. So I made the undercarriage one stud longer, which funny enough was a bit of a puzzle to make it bigger, but in the end it turned out better (mounting of the blade didn't stick out on top anymore for example) and the whole undercarriage is stronger than it was. No idea how much hose I used. Jono Rocky was at 1.3m of hose iirc, with 2 more pneumatic functions I am probably closer to 2 meters. There was an attempt to add a diff to this model, like the previous models I made. However due to the size of the diff and the ground clearance it would turn out something like this: As we all know from Sariel's gear calculator, there isn't a combo of gears for 1 stud down+1 stud right, but these bevel gears with half a studd offset, work pretty well for this purpose (though I doubt it would play nice with torque from a motor). It even has that, as @Didumos69 would say, "sweet Lego gear rattle". It's probably common knowledge, but it was funny to stumble upon this during the build and something I might find another purpose for in the future. I decided to drop the diff from the model in favor of the dozer blade function. I also dropped the scale of this diff concept, because the bucket would be too big. I didn't want to build a smaller bucket or use one from normal Lego, so I decided to scale up to the normal Technic bucket. In case you wonder why there isn't a video of the pneumatic functions. I tried, but my big paws block alot of the model when operating the functions And here's a video of the pneumatic functions, don't ask me why I didn't think of holding it this way yesterday... Thanks for reading yet another too long post from me
  13. This MOC came about from my wanting of a super compact all-in-one Lego compressor, and after trying many different auto valve designs (and about a week of building), this is what I came up with: Video: Features: Air tank Automatic pressure switch M motor and 6L mini pump compressor Very compact 15 x 11 x 7 stud size Easy removal of battery box Pneumatic tube lengths: 1x 3L (2.4cm) 2x 10L (8cm) 1x 14L (11.2cm) All the pneumatic tube lengths listed above (and most of the other parts) are available in 8110-1 Unimog U400. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. The compressor uses a single 6L mini pneumatic pump, but can easily be modified for two pumps. The automatic cut-off pressure can easily be adjusted by changing the strength of the rubber bands attached to the pneumatic cylinder.
  14. Hello everyone. I would like to introduce my truck with excavator. It is loosely based on Tatra 815 with UDS 114 (universal finishing machine). The real thing looks like this: I really like this type of excavator, its main advantage is high mobility because it can even go on highway. It is mainly used on road building and terrain shaping. My goal was to make pneumaticly operated truck, preferably playable by kids. I started with some blueprints and decided to use 49,5mm wheels that set my scale to roughly 21,5:1. I wanted it to look like an older truck, with low cabin and boxy design. The model features: - HOG steering by spare wheel at the back of cabin - Openable doors with decent details in interier - Fake V4 engine that is connected to rear axles, each with differential and with shock absorbers (~1 stud travel distance) - Pendular unsprung front axle with ackerman steering (~3 studs travel distance) - Pneumatic stabilizers that are able to lift the whole truck - Pneumatic jib with manual extension from ~40 to 68 studs - Manually operated bucket with 360° rotation The above is a result of many compromises - like V4 engine instead of inline 6 etc. It is not possible to fit larger engine into this scale, I tried mini fake engine but I didn't liked how it looks. What is most satisfying for me is the front axle with ackerman steering and pivot point nearly in center of the wheel. That allowed me to build very nice fenders close to wheel. The wheel doesn't touch it even in full turn radius and fully compressed. The rear axles are by Efferman, he used this design in his Kenworth crane. I really like it. Enough talk, some pictures: IMGP4963 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4964 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4965 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4966 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4968 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4969 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4970 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4971 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4973 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4974 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr The weight of the fully extended jib is pushing the thin pneumatic cylinders to their limit. I wanted to keep thin ones at all cost because they look much better. I have redid the jib like 15 times, ending with studded one that prooved the best abilities in terms of rigidity, weight and looks. The battery box is there as counterweigh only. I had several versions with PF - to run compressor (not enough pressure to lift fully extended jib), motorized jib extension (took too much space from the extension),.. so in the end I threw PF out, leaving all functions as manual. The stabilizers were also quite challanging due to the angle and size, at least they have no problem lifting whole truck. I hope you like it.
  15. Hi everybody. last month I started a new project, while my 42043-C Unimog U4000 is on standby. I kinda like the Mercedes Benz team. so this one will be another Zetros. while my 42043-C Zetros was a C-model, this Zetros 3643 AS 6x6, will be way bigger, and not a C-model. Below is the blueprint I'm actually building from. been during a lot of research, blueprints and calculated a proper scale many times..... so by basing the scale on the wheels I figured out that a 1:12.5 scale would fit very well. I got some RC wheels 108mm, which kinda looks like the Zetros tires, but the Claas Tractor tires will fit the model very well too. Now let me show some pictures of my actual model so far. This one was my first atempt to build a proper fitting chassis for the Zetros But after a month with rebuilds and testing, I got to scrap that design, as the gearbox wasn't strong enough to power 3-4 kg of lego. also was the chassis a bit to flexible. so during january I ended up with this design: And by now I have finished most of the chassis, on moved on to the cab. As told it is the CrewCab model I'm building, mostly because it is the one I like most, and think it fits the size of the truck very well. By finishing the Chassis, it also means that bumbers and headlights are done. I'm not quite sure about the headlights yet, but it will work for now. The picture above, is the current prgress. More will follow. more pictures at:
  16. Hi, I have been trying and failing to make a small pneumatic car wth two cylinders that when air is pumped into an air tank, and a valve is released, the car will roll along a flat surface. Any ideas? Parts that I have: 2 (or 4) of the not-V2 style large cylinders 1 x Airtank 5 valves and 2 old style valves NOTE: I bought some small pumps, but they were all faulty.
  17. Hi everyone, I've finished this and decided to post a [MOC] topic for it. Thank you to everyone who helped me out in the [WIP] topic. Here is the finished model, with: 4x4 drive steering 2 M-Motors 1 XL- Motor motorized pneumatic compressor pneumatic extending crane pneumatic raising/lowering crane Side view.^^ Extended crane.^^ A frame of a car I made to show the truck towing a vehicle.^^ Here it is again, I may add PF to make a fast car.^^ Thank you and please tell me what you think.
  18. As many of you might have seen in Nicjasno's BMW e30 build episode 13, he's counting on volunteers to reverse engineer the chassis and build the body. So I decided to take up the challenge and reverse engineer the car. I first started with the rear suspension, since its simpler than the front one, and you may notice a bit of color vomit due to my lack of similar color pieces. I don't have the custom mini turntable hubs, so I just built place holders. After the rear suspension, I started on the front; first I tackled the hubs. Then, I moved onto the rest of the front suspension. Next up, the chassis, so stay tuned.
  19. Hi everyone I need some help to troubleshoot an issue that I'm having with a Pneumatic Pump. It has a leak, but I don't think that it is the piston or the one-way valve. I think that there may be a tiny hole in the black casing. Please watch this short (2 min) video for details: Has anyone experienced a similar problem, or have a solution? I was thinking that I could use some glue (hot glue / super glue / two-part epoxy) to block the hole, but I didn't want it to seep in and block the air flow completely. I've had this pump for a few years, but I think this is the first time that I have actually used it. If this is a manufacturing defect, do you think Lego would replace it? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  20. I triying to build the smallest pneumatic machine I can, 8 functions, 4 pneumatic autovalves and 5 motors but I don´t know yet... the fifth motor is just for the gearbox (yellow piece) without it I wouldn´t need a third receptor and in a small machine is a lot of extra room. Now you can see 4 motors, gearbox, 4 autovalves, the shifting mechanism and the outputs for the trasmision, I still have to put the stair and turntable mechanism, 4 pneumatic pumps, battery and 3 receptors with 1 motor or just 2 receptors, I am talking just about the body , I have to build tracks and two arms, normal and frontal type (this one needs the fourth autovalve to open and close it).
  21. TECHNIC PNEUMATIC CONTEST 1st MTS Dino 5 on a Arocs Longnose by Efferman Entry Topic - Discussion Topic 2nd Backhoe by Lipko Entry Topic - Discussion Topic 3rd Vermeer TS44A Tree Spade Trailer By Milan Entry Topic - Discussion Topic CONTEST INFORMATIONName: Technic Pneumatic ContestStart Date: 16-08-2016Entries: 37Valid voters: 140Total points: 3640Members participating (building and/or voting): 155WINNERS1. MTS Dino 5 on a Arocs Longnose - 581 Points (78 votes) Efferman (entry 1)2. Backhoe - 424 Points (73 votes) Lipko (entry 20)3. Vermeer TS44A Tree Spade Trailer - 227 Points (48 votes) Milan (entry 25)CONTEST RESULTS1. MTS Dino 5 on a Arocs Longnose - 581 Points (78 votes) Efferman (entry 1)2. Backhoe - 424 Points (73 votes) Lipko (entry 20)3. Vermeer TS44A Tree Spade Trailer - 227 Points (48 votes) Milan (entry 25)4. Little Bulldozer - 203 Points (50 votes) Appie (entry 3)5. Customs Checkpoint - Toll Road - 180 Points (32 votes) Paul Klop (entry 16)6. Liebherr 914 Compact excavator - 165 Points (40 votes) mpj (entry 12)7. 4-8-2 Pneumatic Locomotive - 145 Points (34 votes) The_Brown_Hornet (entry 32)8. Ikarus 280 Non-Articulated Bus - 133 Points (36 votes) josszo (entry 6)9. Mini Underground Mining Loader - 125 Points (31 votes) Tamas Juhasz (entry 34)10. Mercedes Atego Side Loaded Recycling Truck - 124 Points (33 votes) RabbiT_CZ (entry 21)11. Dancing Clone Trooper - 115 Points (29 votes) BusterHaus (entry 17)12. Snow Groomer - 110 Points (31 votes) Wiseman_2 (entry 19)13. LEGO Front Loader Garbage Truck - 107 Points (37 votes) Minique85 (entry 11)14. Pneumatic Rock Loader - 92 Points (23 votes) desert752 (entry 30)15. Pneumatic Scissor Lift Cart - 88 Points (28 votes) lindr6 (entry 5)16. Lil Excavator - 88 Points (24 votes) jono.rocky (entry 9)17. Heavy Lift Telehandler - 82 Points (21 votes) luukietechnic (entry 33)18. Man TGS 6x4 With Container Hook - 76 Points (20 votes) Ti-Max (entry 27)19. Scraper Caterpillar - 64 Points (18 votes) juGSI16V (entry 4)20. Useless Box - 62 Points (17 votes) GroundskeeperWillie (entry 24)21. Volvo Handler - 60 Points (16 votes) steph77 (entry 22)22. Box Factory - 60 Points (14 votes) Ludo Visser (entry 23)23. Pneumatic Classic Locomotive - 56 Points (22 votes) Samer (entry 36)24. Side Loader Garbage Truck - 46 Points (14 votes) Paave (entry 15)25. Concept Bulldozer - 41 Points (10 votes) Thirdwigg (entry 31)26. Log Skidder - 35 Points (12 votes) nikolyakov (entry 37)27. Pneumatic Lift GBC Module - 32 Points (7 votes) Captainowie (entry 18)28. Volvo EW180e excavator - 21 Points (5 votes) Technivor (entry 10)29. Grabber Excavator - 21 Points (7 votes) HorcikDesigns (entry 14)30. Front Shovel Mining Excavator - Liebherr R9800 - 17 Points (8 votes) falconluan (entry 13)31. Pneumatic press - 16 Points (5 votes) roppie11 (entry 7)32. AmphiTruck - 13 Points (3 votes) cyberdyne systems (entry 2)33. Car Transporter - 9 Points (4 votes) Offroadcreat1ons (entry 28)34. Genie Man Lift - 9 Points (5 votes) gmshades (entry 35)35. The Claw - 7 Points (3 votes) Seasider (entry 8)36. Telescopic wheelloader - 4 Points (1 votes) nick97 (entry 26)37. Small robust compressor - 2 Points (1 votes) 9v System (entry 29)Total Points: 3640VALID VOTERS1. 9v system2. AdamL3. agrof4. AkiyamaWataru5. Alasdair Ryan6. alenvprekrsku7. allanp8. aminnich9. AndroTech10. AOW11. arik12. braker2313. Brickis38542f14. brickless_kiwi15. brunojj116. BusterHaus17. Captainowie18. carebear19. carver051020. cehtunger21. Chade22. Charbel23. chi6524. Chilly25. cookiedent26. Dave2127. dernorden28. desert75229. dokludi30. DTom31. Edwin Korstanje32. efferman33. Erik Leppen34. filsawgood35. Focus36. GBCPeter37. GBTechnic38. GI_Jack39. gmshades40. Good old Lego builder41. GroundskeeperWillie42. grum6443. HallBricks44. Hefe45. Hersbrucker46. higgins9147. HorcikDesigns48. Interceptor49. Ivka50. Jarema51. Jay Psi52. Jeroen Ottens53. jgw54. JGW300055. JJ256. Jonfensu57. jono.rocky58. jorgeopesi59. jotta9360. Jubuilder61. juGSI16V62. Juize7563. JunkstyleGio64. Jurss65. KikoTube66. kinggregus67. Kippo68. kjm16169. Kmuffin70. Krall71. krisandkris1272. kubic73. Lego Nerd74. legolijntje75. Leonardo da Bricki76. Lipko77. Lucio Switch78. LucyCol79. Ludo Visser80. luukietechnic81. LXF82. Madoca 197783. madsen199784. MajklSpajkl85. majusnica86. MangaNOID87. Mark27588. Meisterschnorrer89. micek90. Minique8591. mixlaproduction92. model85093. Morgoth92494. muffinbrick95. mutaling96. mzoli97. mzzl8898. Nalyd99799. naugem100. Nequmodiva101. nerdsforprez102. nick97103. Nightfall104. nikolyakov105. NXT45106. Offroadcreat1ons107. omardib21108. parngon109. Pat-Ard110. Paul Klop111. paul_delahaye112. pet-tho113. PiotrekJ114. PistenBully 600115. proran116. pyro690117. RabbiT_CZ118. Rail Co119. Rainbow120. Renji888121. Rishab N122. Rockbrick123. Samer124. Samolot125. Sarmatian126. schraubedrin127. Seasider128. sebitsena129. SERVATOR130. SilentWolf131. steph77132. Technivor133. The_Brown_Hornet134. Thirdwigg135. TinkerBrick136. Tomik137. Tommy Styrvoky138. WilrickB139. WvG_853140. zuxINVALID VOTERS1. Bartybum - Did not allot all 26 points
  22. TECHNIC PNEUMATIC CONTEST VOTING TOPIC This topic will be used as a voting topic for the Technic Pneumatic Contest. Voting will be open for at variable period of time. There's no fixed closing date. Closing date will most likely be somewhere between one and two weeks. VOTING RULES AND REGULATIONS Voting scheme uses the old Formula One style point distribution (10, 6, 4, 3, 2 and 1 POINT) You need to assign 10 points to the 1st place, 6 points to the second and so one. You need to vote for 6 ENTRIES (no more, no less) Clearly mention the ENTRY NUMBER and the NUMBER OF POINTS per entry that you vote on. If you joined Eurobricks after the start of the contest, you can be banned from voting (when vote rigging is suspected) You may NOT vote for your own entry. In the event of a tie for any place the Technic Staff will decide which entry wins. Our decision is final. Questions about voting can be asked in the Information Topic. For example (entries randomly chosen): --- comments can be placed above the votes 5: 10 (no comments here please) 6: 6 1: 4 9: 3 7: 2 3: 1 Or comments can be placed below the votes ---- NOTES Please use this exact notation NUMBER: VOTES (with a colon). Please don't type #1:10, 1 = 10 or 1) 10 or other notations. Stick to the example format shown above. Please use this thread only for voting. You may explain why you made your choice, but any general discussion should take place in the Information Topic. Comments should be placed ABOVE or BELOW the votes. Please don't comment on the same line as the votes. ENTRIES All entries can be found in the entry thread: Please visit the entry topic to see all entries. 1. MTS Dino 5 on a Arocs Longnose by Efferman 2. AmphiTruck by cyberdyne systems 3. Little Bulldozer by Appie 4. Scraper Caterpillar by juGSI16V 5. Pneumatic Scissor Lift Cart by lindr6 6. Ikarus 280 Non-Articulated Bus by josszo 7. Pneumatic press by roppie11 8. The Claw by Seasider 9. Lil Excavator by jono.rocky 10. Volvo EW180e excavator by Technivor 11. LEGO Front Loader Garbage Truck by Minique85 12. Liebherr 914 Compact excavator by mpj 13. Front Shovel Mining Excavator - Liebherr R9800 by falconluan 14. Grabber Excavator by HorcikDesigns 15. Side Loader Garbage Truck by Paave 16. Customs Checkpoint - Toll Road by Paul Klop 17. Dancing Clone Trooper by BusterHaus 18. Pneumatic Lift GBC Module by Captainowie 19. Snow Groomer by Wiseman_2 20. Backhoe by Lipko 21. Mercedes Atego Side Loaded Recycling Truck by RabbiT_CZ 22. Volvo Handler by steph77 23. Box Factory by Ludo Visser 24. Useless Box by GroundskeeperWillie 25. Vermeer TS44A Tree Spade Trailer by Milan 26. Telescopic wheelloader by nick97 27. Man TGS 6x4 With Container Hook by Ti-Max 28. Car Transporter by Offroadcreat1ons 29. Small robust compressor by 9v System (disqualified) 30. Pneumatic Rock Loader by desert752 31. Concept Bulldozer by Thirdwigg 32. 4-8-2 Pneumatic Locomotive by The_Brown_Hornet 33. Heavy Lift Telehandler by luukietechnic 34. Mini Underground Mining Loader by Tamas Juhasz 35. Genie Man Lift by gmshades 36. Pneumatic Classic Locomotive by Samer 37. Log Skidder by nikolyakov Good luck!
  23. Hello Everyone, My entry for this contest is a man lift inspired by a Genie picture. Manual Features: 4 wheel steer rotating structure Pneumatic Features: Power Functions pump Main Parallel Lift Secondary Lift Cage Lift All valves located in the basket.
  24. Hello, here I am with my object for this contest, made myself a crashcars slash bumpercars, completly like in reality for transport, just 2 mm space between the trailer and wheelpart to get it out, then lowering and start building... I use the pumps instead of a cyllinderenginepump, duo the weigt of the roof when some weight on it, with 2 handpumps it goes faster.. the cyllinders you see are real lego technic but I bought them chromed at Aurimax at bricklink duo the fact that yellow is not my kind of colour and would be horrible to see in my bumpercars, I put a picture of it with the normal ones so you guys can witness it... so it contains: 4 cyllinders 4 cyllinder brackets 2 pneumatic switches 2 handpumps everything (exept the net offcourse) is lego, no fake lepin or 3th partiebricks... I just made a purple rooftop on it to be realstic, I'm breaking it off today so I will make a movie and post it tomorrow then on the entry forum, hope you guys like it,I know funfair is always a risky subject duo everyone making trucks and cranes... So I ope atleast someone enjoys it.. cheers picture of the chromed vs normal cyllinders... bussy with my roof.. close up from the cyllinders and from the engineview with handpumps
  25. Greetings All, Apologies for being very late to the party, but the TC10 pneumatic competition brings together my favourite parts of what technic is all about and I really wanted to contribute. A number of years ago I had to good fortune to come across a big bunch of pneumatic parts. Having worked on all sorts of pneumatic based MOC's my beloved wife put out the challenge to build her a steam train thus beginning a five year odyssey before finally arriving at the model I present to you all today. Creating a genuinely functioning Lego Pneumatic Locomotive has been a real challenge, searching the internet brings up very few examples. Creating a valve assembly that is both functional and reasonably robust within the confines of lego has proven quite the challenge. Rather than completely reinventing the wheel, I have based my model on a simplified version of Walschaerts Valve Gear that was used on many steam trains through history. I set out at the start of this competition to make a fully reversible valve gear as per the real thing but it proved too much of a challenge at this stage - see how the next few years pans out. The Model: Classic 4-8-2 locomotive configuration using 62.4 tyres for driving wheels old style clear pneumatic cylinders for drive old style pneumatic valves Six manually operated pneumatic pumps - this thing need lots of air. All parts use are original, unmodified, genuine Lego items. The reason I have used "old" style valves is that they are the ones that I could find with minimal resistance, allowing the whole system to function property. Starting with the final result for those of us into instant gratification; This is the final interpretation of my pneumatic locomotive. I will, however make you scroll further for the video. The key to the success of this model is has been in effectively copying the principals behind the walschaerts valve system where the throw of the valves is delayed by the eccentric on the main driving wheel. It is only once the piston ( pneumatic cylinder) has reached the end of it's stroke that the valve is thrown in the opposite direction to push it back the other way. The two valve trains on either side of the loco are offset by 90 degrees so that they "help" each other past the dead spot at the limits of each cylinder's stroke. No matter what I tried, the fundamental principal was "More Steam Coalmam!' In manual form, 6 pumps are required to provide adequate air supply. Four air reservoirs for the testing phase and three in the final model smooth the pulses from six manual pumps to a point that we have reasonably smooth motion. Lucky last, a brief video showing how it works. I'll try to post an ldraw of the basic mechanism in the not too distant future but instructions are well outside my current skill set. If you've got this far, thanks very much for taking the time, I hope it's proven interesting. The Brown Hornet