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I've been working on a fully automated container terminal for the past years (more on that on my Work In Progress YT channel) and since the project is expanding, so are the needs for pneumatic air. I already built an automated compressor a few years back but it can't deliver enough power when the pneumatic cranes are continuously in operation. So I built a bigger compressor! It has 16 pumps, driven by 4 L-motors. The system is controlled by an Arduino, in combination with a pressure sensor, which makes sure that the pressure remains on its setpoint of 3 bar. If the pressure falls below, the pumps are started. To make the thing less noisy, I wanted to build a whole building around it. The project became a bit bigger than initially the idea was (like all of my projects), but I like the final result! It also has a TFT screen which shows a graph of the pressure in the course of time. Pics or it didn't happen: More info can be found in this video:
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This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics. -
Does anybody else absolutely love lego Pneumatics (LPE's, simple functions, etc.)? I would love for this topic to just be a thread where we can share creations made with pneumatics, hopefully I am not the only one. -
Hey everyone, you must check out the share your trucks forum for many talented eurobricker’s inspirational truck designs! But this topic is for those who have made their own custom trailers and mods that they are proud of! I will start first Here is my trailer for my custom Semitruck. I am currently designing a nice off-road capable caravan which I hope some of you would like to see, I am almost finished and I will post it here when I am done. -
Hello everybody! I have been recently thinking about building the V8 WK3 pneumatic engine, from Greek Gecko Workshops. On their page, it says that to get max RPM you need 116 psi, and you need to be able to hook the engine up to an air compressor. Does anybody know how to do this? I have not been able to find any answers. Thanks, LegoBuilder919 -
Hi, I designed a pretty compact inline 3 pneumatic engine: If someone‘s interested, I‘ll consider making instructions. Pascal Here are some pictures: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0nS1bu-NzDFND9IuROoaiSaQw https://bricksafe.com/pages/Paacsl/compact-inline-3-lpe
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I present to you the "3" wheeled loader. The back wheels act as one, It was an idea spawned from a mix of the Bell 3 wheeled sugarcane loader and BM-VOLVO LM loader, so a three wheeled loader. Took me a little longer to build then I care to admit, because of the lift arms and the not having the hoses kink or bind. It's nothing special as far as build goes. It might look better if I had a little smaller bucket. The truck used for the demonstration is a slightly modified version of grego18's on Rebrickable. More pictures HERE. -
Hello everyone: I am glad to share this project, the mining excavator, based on Cat 6090. Phisycal Configuration: The Lego Cat6090 is a motorized digger on tracked wheels, 2 XL motors provided enough torque. On the track frame is placed the main structure, and a heavy duty turntable allows good rotations, without fricctions. The turntable is rotated by means of 1 XL motor. The main structure contains: the XL motor for turntable, the air compressor, 4 servos for pneumatic valves and the controller. The design is ultra compact in order to meet the requierement of size/scale. The tracked whell is ultra rigid structure, designed to resist extreme load. The air compressor has 4 XL motor and 2 pneumatic pumps, in order to provide a constant air flow and high pressure, both pumps are de-phased 180° in order to reduce vibrations. 4 PF-servos open/close 2 way air valves, to command all pneumatic actuators. The boom has 2 large pneumatic actuator. Due to heavy height of the boom, 4 spring supply extra force during the elevation. 2 large pneumatics actuators push/pull the arm, those actuators are placed below the arm. 2 large penumatics actuators dedicate to rotate the bucket. 1 medium pneumatic actuator, open/close the bucket. Electrical configuration: Three 18650 batteries provide an average of 11.1 V, the compressor are suplied with 11.1 V, and the servos, lights and turntable motor are suplied with 9V. A BMS (Battery Managment System) manages the charge and the discharge durgin the operation. The tracked frame is steering by the use of 11.1 V, and as well is manage by the use of a BMS. On Board System (OBS): The name given to the controller. There are two systems, one for the main structure, and the secund is used to move the tracked well. The main controller, is a server TCP/IP protocol. The controller has a ESP8266 microcontroller with a TCP/IP stack, this controller is able to be programmed in arduino languaje (also micropython) - Teh ESP8266 is used as a sever, Motor driver: used to control the compressor The 4 PF servos are controlled by means of digital outputs, and the lights. ld293d, this is a H-bridge used to control the turntable motor. The second controller, is a ESP8266 as a client, and controls the speed of the tracks. Also, it has a BMS in order to regulates the charges/discharge of the batteries Accessories: 1) Josyticks: Two joysticks, with 4 dof (degrees of freedom) each of one plus a on/off button, are connected to the server module. 2) App: An application developmented under Android studio is used to visualizate the air pressure and electrical current, this app is WIP (work in progress). Conectivity: The comunication used is socket TCP/IP- Main features: maximun pressure reached: 52 psi (358 Kpa) Voltage bus: 11.1 V Compressor electrical consuption: 23 W Weight: 6 kg Length: 30 cm width: 20 cm height: 30 cm Here some pictures, during the construction and commissioning Note: my apologies for my primitive english
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Hey guys, During a chat I was pointed to the Steinwinter Supercargo 2040. I was fascinated by the look and decided to build it. It was designed by the german engineer Manfred Steinwinter. During my research, I found out that he build only one prototype, but planned many more versions. I liked the three-axled version and so started with a rough sketch to get an idea of the proportions: While I was searching for images of that truck, I also contacted the current IP owner and asked for blueprints. Fortunately he liked my project and he send me some. Since then this truck went through many iteration of improvements and design changes. In the end I decided to use Powered Up to control it. This is the current state: These are planned/implemented features and specifications: Current weight: 3kg Length: 86 studs Height: 14 studs Width: 27 studs Power supply: 4x Technic hub Driving: 4x C+ XL motor, each motor is connected to one hub to spread the load (3,528:1, theoretically 0,74 km/h @7,5V @124Ncm) Steering: 1x C+ L motor, two steered axles with Ackerman geometry Compressor: 1x C+ L motor, 4 pumps 3 RC valves: 3x C+ L motor, 3x newest valve one for each the rear axle, front/middle left wheel, front/middle right wheel Angle sensor for suspension on front and middle axle: 2x C+ XL and 2x Boost Medium motors OR 2x C+ XL Angle sensor for rear axle: 1x motor (not implemented yet) Air/pneumatic suspension on all axles controlled by Powered Up double wishbone suspension on fron and middle axle Each front/middle wheel on the left and right side are one unit. That means if the front wheel is pushed up the middle wheel is pushed down. That way the weight is equally distributed on the wheels live rear axle When I decided to use Powered Up I thought about controlling the ride height somehow with Powered Up. To do that I needed something to read the position of the double wish bone arms and the rear axle. Since several motors in the C+/Powered Up eco system can report their position, tried to use them to read the angle of the suspension arm. I successfully implemented that on the front and middle axle. For the rear axle I haven't found a good solution yet, because that axle can move on two axis. While I'm waiting for some additional parts, I'm working on the solution for the rear axle. As for the code, I already made a proof of concept. I created a test setup and wrote some code, which reads the angle of a suspension arm and adjusts it to the desired value. for the finished MOC a can think of something like a parking height, highway ride height and more or less off-road height. Once the chassis is finished the and the Powered Up is working I'll start working on body. Feel free to leave comments, critique and suggestions. -
Hi everyone After one year I finished another MOC. Here I present my wheel loader inspired by Volvo wheel loader L120H with technic chassis and creator style body. The model is controlled by two Sbricks an powered by one small PF battery boy. The boom and the bucket are controlled with pneuamtic cylinders coupled to a geared servo motor with the newest pneumatic valves. Like this it is possible to control "heavy" loads precisely. Furthermore, the model has an auto compressor which is controlled via the BrickController2 app, where it is possible to add one port of the Sbrick (here the compressor) to two independent other functions (here the two servo motors with the valves). Like this the pump always switches on as soon as one of the pneumatic function is selected. But check the functionality in the following video: Instruction is available on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-64106/FT-creations/wheel-loader-inspired-by-volvo/#details -
Hi, I stored my MB Arocs for about half a year. I rebuilt the B model into the A model, but the pneumatics just won’t work. I looked for any kinks in the hoses, tried the pump, tried the cilinders with nothing attached, and it all works fine. The cilinders are also re-oiled. If I attach the first section of the crane, it works fine. However, if I put the second section on, the cilinder can’t lift the crane. The problem lies just with the first cilinder. I even swapped the cilinder for the second section with the cilinder for the first section, but both cilinders seam too weak for the weight of the crane. I’m not really experienced or anything with this kind of stuff, I just build and play, and if I make MOCs its certainly not with pneumatics. I read several forums but all the solutions given there were the things I already tried. So, has anyone an idea what this might be? Maybe because I stored my Arocs the cilinders caught too much dust? PS. I also thought about adding an air tank, but I don’t know if that solves the problem? -
Hi, I have been trying and failing to make a small pneumatic car wth two cylinders that when air is pumped into an air tank, and a valve is released, the car will roll along a flat surface. Any ideas? Parts that I have: 2 (or 4) of the not-V2 style large cylinders 1 x Airtank 5 valves and 2 old style valves NOTE: I bought some small pumps, but they were all faulty. -
Hi everyone, I've finished this and decided to post a [MOC] topic for it. Thank you to everyone who helped me out in the [WIP] topic. Here is the finished model, with: 4x4 drive steering 2 M-Motors 1 XL- Motor motorized pneumatic compressor pneumatic extending crane pneumatic raising/lowering crane Side view.^^ Extended crane.^^ A frame of a car I made to show the truck towing a vehicle.^^ Here it is again, I may add PF to make a fast car.^^ Thank you and please tell me what you think. -
Hey everyone, My last build of the year features a pneumatic reach stacker built only with parts from 42043. The model contains around 1400 parts, and it is rather small given that part count (only about 40cm long). It contains no PF fro the pump but the space inside is really filled by pneumatic tubes. One thing I wanted to try was to not have the tubes showing all along the boom, so I put them inside the boom. This took up a lot of space. Anyways, I'm happy with the result as everything works well and there are lots of functions: HoG steering with Ackermann geometry Drivetrain connected to a piston engine Pendular rear axle Sliding cabin forward and backward ~ 20 studs rotate grabber (by hand) Extend boom, with safety ratchet to prevent fallback Raise boom (pneumatic) Manipulate wrist (pneumatic) Open/close grabber (pneumatic) And now for the video: And now for some pictures: And that's all. I wish everyone a happy new year! I'm honored to be part of this amazing community and hope that it continues to flourish in the years to come. Thanks for reading! C&C are always appreciated. BbBT -
Hi! As a new member of our large society I'd like to present you one of (as I humbly think) my greatest models so far - the humanoid's arm. Creation has been building by mine for January and February this year. In April it has taken a third place in local competition for students and, as if that wasn't enough, in June I was also presented it at Warsaw, Polish capital. Here's also a humorous entry featured it at Brother's Brick blog: https://www.brothers-brick.com/2018/04/17/judgment-day-starts-with-a-technic-arm/?fbclid=IwAR1f4tKQdujN5YtRemM4K3OmIlpCGO6GcdgWRsEgeJDDWpn7Ayb3K4tl-hs#more-107955 The arm itself is a combination of pneumatic and electric (Power Functions) componenets controlled remotely or by panel with system of valves. It's quite large, even slighty more than actual human's arm. It includes a total of 6 motors, 2 IR receivers, 7 pneumatic cylinders and 4 linear actuators. Features prehensile palm with tendon-like controlled fingers, natural range of thumb's movement, fingers abduction, movable forwards and backwards wrist axis, rotated and elevated forearm. Just look: Also let's see some photos: If you liked it, I'll try to upload some photos and videos of my robots soon! Sorry for my poor English :/
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I am a fairly new member to the Lego community but have immediately been interested in LPEs. Here is my idea: Has anybody ever built or thought about powering a compressor with the engine itself. So instead of having a compressor powered by a PF motor, connect the crankshaft of the engine to it. This removes the need for the motor entirely. You will obviously need some sort of external pump to get the engine turning over as a start, similar to a starter motor. The other problem I have thought of is that it will create a never ending cycle of the engine going faster and faster and faster, assuming that the compressor can produce more air than the engine needs and vice versa. I currently do not have the resources to test this myself so any feedback would be amazing! Is this a stupid idea? Are there other things I haven't thought of? What are your thoughts on this project? Thanks!
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Yet another little excavator. Jono Rocky's model was great, but one main thing I wanted to add to that model was some functions to the undercarriage. Then Efferman started his Liebherr Compact 926 project and figured I could add another cylinder to Jono Rocky's arm. This is the result: As you can seen, also used the standard Liebherr colours. Yellow and DBG just happened due to the panels at the rear and the colour of pneumatic switches and I figured I'd use white for the cab instead of "yet another black cab". It isn't scaled to existing Liebherr though. Functions: - Full functional pneumatic arm - Pneumatic dozer blade on the undercarriage - "L2" engine (let's say it's a little "out of sync" though more on that later) - Full 360 degree turn with controls at the rear I was pretty surprised the blade holds the entire model up, especially after every single cylinder on the arm nagged about hoses not being the right length or in exactly the right position. If anybody has any suggestions to make the hoses less stiff (some kind of oil?), I'd love to hear it, because this was just stupid. These panels just screamed: use me here and never ever remove me from this place I added a second pump to the undercarriage so the superstructure could turn 360 degrees 1millmeter of play between the gears+axle and hoses I actually wanted to add another function: cabin lift, but besides having a lack of space behind the cab for this (hoses) it would have a serious negative effect on the support of the arm. So I dropped this idea. I didn't really like having the controls for the turntable stick out at the rear so much as this, but I had no room for other solutions. I tried lowering the "knob" one stud so it wouldn't have to be that long (it's this long so it doesn't collide with the superstructure while actually turning). I tried looking for a way to make a sliding mechanism, but there was simply no room. So I settled for this third option: removable and click it elsewhere on the body. I didn't try to close up the whole rear with tiles, mainly because the hoses ruin any type of mounting points available. On the other hand I like seeing a bit of "the guts". Especially when I spend quite a few evenings on these "guts" (hoses) to get it to work properly The L2 is poorly tuned In the space available my options were limited. I used @Attika's half pin solution for the fake engine, but these pins won't work with plates with a clip on top, because they can lock up on these pins. So I needed parts that were round on top. I could only think of this crankshaft part in the 2x2x2 studs space available. In this WIP you can clearly see the current situation: I added the 2L thin liftarm for the simple reason that I like the engine more going 2 up> 1 up> 2 up etc. than 2 up > nothing > 2 up. Neither option is realistic, so I chose what was most fun for me With his other pneumatic buddies: Some WIP pics That moment when you realise that your superstructure is 1 stud too long or your undercarriage 1 stud too short... I tried making the superstructure 1 stud shorter, but that would really hurt the rigidity of the arm. So I made the undercarriage one stud longer, which funny enough was a bit of a puzzle to make it bigger, but in the end it turned out better (mounting of the blade didn't stick out on top anymore for example) and the whole undercarriage is stronger than it was. No idea how much hose I used. Jono Rocky was at 1.3m of hose iirc, with 2 more pneumatic functions I am probably closer to 2 meters. There was an attempt to add a diff to this model, like the previous models I made. However due to the size of the diff and the ground clearance it would turn out something like this: As we all know from Sariel's gear calculator, there isn't a combo of gears for 1 stud down+1 stud right, but these bevel gears with half a studd offset, work pretty well for this purpose (though I doubt it would play nice with torque from a motor). It even has that, as @Didumos69 would say, "sweet Lego gear rattle". It's probably common knowledge, but it was funny to stumble upon this during the build and something I might find another purpose for in the future. I decided to drop the diff from the model in favor of the dozer blade function. I also dropped the scale of this diff concept, because the bucket would be too big. I didn't want to build a smaller bucket or use one from normal Lego, so I decided to scale up to the normal Technic bucket. In case you wonder why there isn't a video of the pneumatic functions. I tried, but my big paws block alot of the model when operating the functions And here's a video of the pneumatic functions, don't ask me why I didn't think of holding it this way yesterday... Thanks for reading yet another too long post from me
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Hello everyone. I would like to introduce my truck with excavator. It is loosely based on Tatra 815 with UDS 114 (universal finishing machine). The real thing looks like this: I really like this type of excavator, its main advantage is high mobility because it can even go on highway. It is mainly used on road building and terrain shaping. My goal was to make pneumaticly operated truck, preferably playable by kids. I started with some blueprints and decided to use 49,5mm wheels that set my scale to roughly 21,5:1. I wanted it to look like an older truck, with low cabin and boxy design. The model features: - HOG steering by spare wheel at the back of cabin - Openable doors with decent details in interier - Fake V4 engine that is connected to rear axles, each with differential and with shock absorbers (~1 stud travel distance) - Pendular unsprung front axle with ackerman steering (~3 studs travel distance) - Pneumatic stabilizers that are able to lift the whole truck - Pneumatic jib with manual extension from ~40 to 68 studs - Manually operated bucket with 360° rotation The above is a result of many compromises - like V4 engine instead of inline 6 etc. It is not possible to fit larger engine into this scale, I tried mini fake engine but I didn't liked how it looks. What is most satisfying for me is the front axle with ackerman steering and pivot point nearly in center of the wheel. That allowed me to build very nice fenders close to wheel. The wheel doesn't touch it even in full turn radius and fully compressed. The rear axles are by Efferman, he used this design in his Kenworth crane. I really like it. Enough talk, some pictures: IMGP4963 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4964 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4965 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4966 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4968 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4969 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4970 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4971 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4973 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr IMGP4974 by Ivan Moc, on Flickr The weight of the fully extended jib is pushing the thin pneumatic cylinders to their limit. I wanted to keep thin ones at all cost because they look much better. I have redid the jib like 15 times, ending with studded one that prooved the best abilities in terms of rigidity, weight and looks. The battery box is there as counterweigh only. I had several versions with PF - to run compressor (not enough pressure to lift fully extended jib), motorized jib extension (took too much space from the extension),.. so in the end I threw PF out, leaving all functions as manual. The stabilizers were also quite challanging due to the angle and size, at least they have no problem lifting whole truck. I hope you like it. -
Ive just assembled the arocs mercedez truck. Wow its big but the pnematics dont work at all. Pumps on, slight movement but not enough power to lift anything. How does one know if the pump is putting out or mal functuioning or valve mal functioning. Im frustrated a bit. Seems at best the pneumatics system is weak to begin with. Do the little blue pumps often cause trouble. It is a new set. Thanx
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This MOC came about from my wanting of a super compact all-in-one Lego compressor, and after trying many different auto valve designs (and about a week of building), this is what I came up with: Video: Features: Air tank Automatic pressure switch M motor and 6L mini pump compressor Very compact 15 x 11 x 7 stud size Easy removal of battery box Pneumatic tube lengths: 1x 3L (2.4cm) 2x 10L (8cm) 1x 14L (11.2cm) All the pneumatic tube lengths listed above (and most of the other parts) are available in 8110-1 Unimog U400. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. The compressor uses a single 6L mini pneumatic pump, but can easily be modified for two pumps. The automatic cut-off pressure can easily be adjusted by changing the strength of the rubber bands attached to the pneumatic cylinder. -
Hi everybody. last month I started a new project, while my 42043-C Unimog U4000 is on standby. I kinda like the Mercedes Benz team. so this one will be another Zetros. while my 42043-C Zetros was a C-model, this Zetros 3643 AS 6x6, will be way bigger, and not a C-model. Below is the blueprint I'm actually building from. been during a lot of research, blueprints and calculated a proper scale many times..... so by basing the scale on the wheels I figured out that a 1:12.5 scale would fit very well. I got some RC wheels 108mm, which kinda looks like the Zetros tires, but the Claas Tractor tires will fit the model very well too. Now let me show some pictures of my actual model so far. This one was my first atempt to build a proper fitting chassis for the Zetros But after a month with rebuilds and testing, I got to scrap that design, as the gearbox wasn't strong enough to power 3-4 kg of lego. also was the chassis a bit to flexible. so during january I ended up with this design: And by now I have finished most of the chassis, on moved on to the cab. As told it is the CrewCab model I'm building, mostly because it is the one I like most, and think it fits the size of the truck very well. By finishing the Chassis, it also means that bumbers and headlights are done. I'm not quite sure about the headlights yet, but it will work for now. The picture above, is the current prgress. More will follow. more pictures at: https://flic.kr/s/aHskRFHEQB -
Hi everyone. I’d like to introduce to you my latest MOC: Technic RC Pneumatic Dump Truck. It is on 1:17 scale, weighing in at 4.32kg with just over 5,000 parts. It is loosely inspired by the SinoTruk Howo 8 x 4 Tipper Twin Steer. I would love to get your thoughts & feedback! More pictures on Flickr HERE Instructions: BuWizz, 2.4GHz Feature Summary Powered by 2 x BuWizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz Box. RC Drive 8 x 8. RC Twin Steering. Springless Live Axle Suspension Front & Rear with maximum roll stability. RC Compressor. RC Pneumatic Functions. Tip Dump Bed & Driver Cab independently. Dump Bed Automatic Gate Lock with optional Manual Override. Opening Doors with Spring-Loaded Latch. Foot Pedals (Brake & Accelerator), Signal Levers, Gear Shifter, Air Horn Chain, Ignition Key, opening Glove Compartment. Working In-Line 6 Cylinder Engine (Connected to Drive Shaft) Working Steering Wheel full-time, even when Cab is tipped. Opening Hood, revealing Engine Fan. Adjustable Sun Visors, Mirrors, Windshield Wipers. Technic Figure Compatibility. Locking Feature to secure Dump Bed & Driver Cab to Frame to add rigidity & facilitate ease of model transport. Video Comparison Pictures Locomotion All motorized functions are powered by dual BuWizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz Units integrated into the Cab. The model features RC Drive, with a full 8 x 8 train. Propulsion is delivered by 4 x PF XL Motors, geared down at 2 to 1 with the help of Planetary Hubs. There are no Center Differentials, which ensures that all 4 axles are driven full-time. The drive train is also connected to a (cosmetic) inline 6-cylinder Engine, complete with a fan. With an empty Bed, the weight distribution is closer to the front, which limits the traction on the rear wheels. In practice, the 8 x 8 drive configuration results in much better outdoor & overall performance (particularly over uneven terrain). Individual axle-mounted PF Servo Motors steer the Truck through a Rack & Pinion system, & this is independent of Suspension flex. Axle 1 (forward) has a tighter turning radius than Axle 2. There is a mechanical linkage connecting the system to the Steering Wheel in the Driver Cab with a +/- 167 deg range for a more realistic look. This function remains operational even when the Cab is tipped. Suspension All 4 Axles feature Live Suspension. Both the front & rear wheel sets are connected in tandem, similar to a Walking Beam configuration. By combining traverse & longitudinal pendular levers, articulation is achieved without the use of shock absorbers. This also offers maximum roll stability for high center-of-gravity applications. This idea was inspired by the All Terrain Crane by @Jennifer Clark. Pneumatic System The Pneumatic Circuit uses compressed air to control the pistons that operate the Bed & Driver Cab tipping functions. A Compressor generates pressurized air that is then redirected towards the pistons through corresponding switches. At the heart of the Pneumatic system is the Air Compressor. It is driven by a PF L Motor using 2 Pumps aligned out of phase for smooth flow. Compressed Air is fed to the Pneumatic Switches that control the tipping functions. The model features 2 Pneumatic functions: Tip Driver Cab & Tip Dump Bed. The air supply from the Compressor is redirected through Pneumatic Switches, which in turn control the Pneumatic Pistons that operate the functions. The Switches are activated by PF Servo Motors. With the Compressor turned on to supply airflow, the Servo angle (-90, 0, 90) corresponds to the Switch positions (-1, 0, 1), which then moves the Pneumatic Pistons as (retract, neutral, extend). Full credit to @functionalTechnic for the original RC Pneumatic Servo set-up. The Dump Bed tips at up to 45 deg & has a lifting capacity of 2.5 kg, with a total volume of 3,623 cubic cm. Gate Lock The Dump Bed contains a gravity-based Lever that automatically releases the Gate as soon as tipping begins. Conversely, it is timed to lock the Gate once the Bed is horizontal. An optional pin is included that secures the Lever in position so that it doesn’t release the Gate upon tipping. Driver Cab Details The Driver Cab features functional doors with a spring-loaded mechanical linkage to open & lock them. This mechanism fits in a single stud width & once locked, the door is fully constrained to the Cab. The driver side contains Foot Pedals (Brake & Accelerator), Air Horn, Signals, Ignition Key, Gear Shift Lever. The Windshield Wipers, Mirrors & Sun Visors are all independently adjustable. The Hood on the front opens to reveal a working Engine Fan. Finally, Technic Figure compatibility has been maintained using vintage seats. Admittedly the Technician scale isn’t 100% accurate, but it is never a bad idea to include them. Locking Elements Both the Driver Cab & Dump Bed feature locking mechanisms that reinforce the tipping functions. This is ideal for model transport, where it can be easily lifted from above from any of the sections. Typically, it would be carried from beneath or by holding the front & back. Aftermarket Tires While the standard 62.4 x 20 tires work well, but the RC4WD 1.2” variants have always been preferrable. They are a bit larger & have a more rugged look overall. Due to the weight of the model, the supplied foam inserts were not sufficient for the tires to retain their shape. To overcome this, custom inserts were designed & 3D Printed for the Dirt Grabber option. They consist of symmetrical halves that are joined together on the rim & secured with Technic ½ Pins. The ID features inner shoulders that prevent lateral movement relative to the rim. More Pictures -
Pneumatic Grab Machine is something like futuristic excavator with grab function - Pneumatic cylinders - Manual pump control - 2 M-Motors for drive - PF Battery Box - IR receiver -
All Thirdwigg Farm Instructions Tractor Instructions Forestry Trailer Instructions Dump Trailer Instructions Disk Harrow Instructions Mechanical Seeder Instructions Power Harrow Instructions Furrow Instructions Snow Plow Instructions Mower Instructions _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ A lot of WIPs going on here is Thirdwiggville, so while the Unimog and SRT are still in progress, let's add another tractor. The tractor came together in 10 days, which is pretty quick for me. Not sure about the mirrors or the air intake, but the rest is pretty final. Now on to the trailers. -
Hello all, Further to this post: Can anyone confirm if 42080 contains the revised pump variant, with the square, reinforced base? I know that the updated part was implemented in 2018, but I'm not sure if it made it into 42080. Thank you.
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