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How do I open the first version Pneumatic Cylinder?
Reinder posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Hi, Bought a nice lot yesterday with some interesting technic parts. My five year old started building right away and was very interested in the pneumatic cylinders that were in there. But as it goes with five year olds, he was also a little too excited with pumping away the cylinder and that resulted in the seperation of the piston and the cylinder. It does not look to be broken off, but I'm not sure if it's fixable or not. I want to try to repare it, but I don't know how to open it. I've seen some posts about opening the cylinder but they are always the later versions. This is the red one which was only in one set: 8040 building set. (part number 4688c01) Does anyone have some tips about opening it and if it's reparable or not? Thanks! -
Need Help Replicating Historic Engine System
GeorgeCrecy posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Dear fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am in dire need of some help from you folks who are definitely more knowledgeable than I. In this case, I am needing help with the replication of the RMS Titanic's Reciprocating Engines and Turbine. I am in the midst at the moment of working on the project below, though I have not updated it in a great while due to university work. See this link here for the project thread. But this is a minifig scale project, with every door, every window accounted for. This means that in regards to the engines, I am also seeking to make them at least somewhat true to scale and able to work as intended. Obviously this is a big job of some top notch Edwardian-era engineering, but I am hoping that there might be some out there not as technically-challenged (pun totally intended) as I am, willing to help me get this part of the project off the ground. Some of the features I I am looking for include a fully air-powered system, where the air supply would come from tanks hidden in the mock-boilers, that are then funneled at somewhat high pressure to the Triple Recip. Engines, which means that the pressure would go down as it goes through each cylinder (HP, IP, then two LPs). The leftover air at a much lower pressure then goes to a junction that can either go to the Parson's Turbine at what was historically 4 psi, or can go directly to the condensers. With the latter I intend just to make the outside of it and hide inside some custom compressors like this. That would then return to the original air supply. With this I am hoping that I will have a self-supplying system with ideally no more than 5% leakage, or enough compressors that leaks are compensated for. WIth the Parson's Turbine, that can be an accurate shell with whatever is needed inside to include a working turbine, and probably with an gearbox and ascending set of gear ratios to give it the necessary torque. These engines and turbine are meant to actually turn the propellers, perhaps even in water! Some other features would include a replica of the Brown-type reversing engine on the side of each of the Recip engines, making it so that the Stevenson-type eccentrics can change the direction of rotation. Considering the scale, the reversing engine doesn't technically have to be much more than a slightly-hidden piston that does the required job, but any more realism doesn't hurt. If something like this is possible, please let me know. I am really wanting to continue with this project, and this is a central part of it. But without the pieces in front of me instead of on a computer screen, what little I know of engineering definitely doesn't help without that tactile interaction. Thanks for your time, and I look forward to your replies! If it is possible, then I can follow up with the intended dimensions. Here are some references for any that wants some: View of turbine and condensers through wall from main engines rotor shaft model of port-side recip. engine overall basic view path of the steam of original, pressurized air for mine -
Time for a dedicated topic as well. Link for high res image: https://mega.nz/#!qDQh2aZC!9L0SMGXuq9L_1oSgaaj20bn-H47tcH2jS8gCeEgJlFM This is the ultimate color barf that TLG has managed to produce: - Lime - Green - White - Yellow - Black - DBG - Red - Blue - Medium Azure - Reddish Brown Discoveries: - If you zoom into the cabin you can see a water bottle with a silver cap - There is a 6L towball link bar under the front row of wheels.
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Hey guys, I want to introduce my latest MOC: The hydraulic slewing crane “T 157/1” – a crane (or rather an excavator or “loader”) that was developed and built in the former GDR. Actually, the machine is quite ugly, but somehow it fascinated me and I had to build it in LEGO® Technic. That's the real excavator (and it's really ugly …): The excavator is completely mechanical or pneumatic and of course fully functional. Therefore it drives, steers and excavates. The challenges during construction were on the one hand the really limited space (of course I wanted to accommodate all functions) and on the other hand the unusual construction of the front axle. The latter also cost me a few evenings and many tests. Also for the tires at the front I had to come up with something. LEGO® doesn't have suitable wheels in its range. The solution: I mounted the balloon tyres 68.8×40 on the Technic 43.2×26 rim, which was actually too small. And lo and behold, it worked and looks great. Also the construction was very fiddly due to the limited space. So the pneumatic pump had to find place underneath the excavator as well as the turning wheel for the rotating construction of the excavator. But in the end it fitted. Thanks to the new pneumatic valves, I was able to build real joysticks. Therefore: Each of the sticks in the "cockpit" really controls the functions of the model. And even if it was tight, there was enough room for a few details like V-belt, tank and exhaust. Finally my excavator in action:
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[MOC]Truck with concrete pump - PF/pneu - 1 motor/5 functions
Ivan_M posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Let me introduce my latest build: Truck with concrete pump Introduction I got the inspiration for this kind of truck very long ago from this spectacular build from Waler: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=558238 . It was one of the first builds I saw when my dark age ended and I kept returning to it ever since. I knew I had to build my own when the time is right. I tried it once already (not published) in smaller scale 3 years ago but I wasn't skilled enough, the scale was wrong and I lacked the parts. I hope it is better this time. I also knew that I want to build it with very different features, Waller's truck if fully RC and I have found out that I prefer single motor and gearbox and steering and drive. IMGP5397 Features & build The list of features I wanted to implement were clear from the begining - full suspension, one motor for 6 functions, 3-section pneumatic arm, gearbox with two way switches and modular build. I wanted similar build/experience like Arocs so I have borrowed few features from it, most important is the way how the 3 modules (front axles with cabin and "crane", central gearbox, rear axles) are connected together. So I took the size of the gear box and its attachment points from Arocs and made my own one within the limits. Later I had to drop the 6th output that was supposed to drive some sort of lever ("pump") inside of the hopper because of complexity. The first iteration of the gearbox was quite fine, but it struggled when the long outriggers were hood on it because I have used clutch gear before the whole gearbox. That was major flaw so I had rebuild it again (almost) from scratch and even managed to add second penumatic pump to it. Each function is proteced either by white clutch gear, rubber band or LA clutch. The gearbox is powered by one L-motor which is powerfull enough to drive everything. Concrete pump gearbox There are two switches on either side between the axles, on right there is switch for spreading outriggers and extending front ones, on left there is switch for lowering them and for pneumatic pump. Switch for arm rotation is under the turntable. The X-style outriggeres are as close to each other as possible. The problem is that the gears for the 4 mLA that spread outriggers have to turn in opposite direction on left/right side AND in opposite direction on front/rear side as well. You can probably see more from picture above. IMGP5404 IMGP5401 Rear axles are build in similar way like on arocs, the difference is that the springs are serured much better and there is build-in 1:3 reduction. Front axles are live axles with ackerman geometry and different steering angle. I'm really happy how they turned out, the spring is mounted to lower suspension arm so I was left with more space on chasis. The steering angle is very high at the cost of force required to steer. It is necessary to drive by one hand and steer by other one, the model is very heavy and steering at place is not very convenient. Rear axles are connected to V8 engine under the cabin. IMGP5414 The cabin can tilt to reveal engine. there are two seats (of course in blue), dahsboard, gear stick and two pedals inside. I have also added screen wipers and all mirrors. Arm is 3 sections. This was real science to make it as long as possible and light so the pistons can lift it. I have moved the pistons that operate 2nd and third section to opposite direction of the arm. This prooved very effective as it allowed me to make both sections at least 10 studs longer. I also wanted tubbing as nice as possible and thick tube for concrete as well. IMGP5406 IMGP5409 Full gallery: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUypnbW Video Instructions Yea, they are on the way -
Hello everybody, during this holidays I purchased the 42081 and decided to build it a little different. First, I made some minor changes in design, to look a little more similar to the "real" Zeux. I changed some color here and there; the yellow panels in the middle are different; the placement of the "02" adhesives is on the lower DBG panels instead of the upper ones. But the biggest MOD was to add the pneumatic system, with motorized pump, instead of manual LAs. The valves are located on the sides of the loader, 2 on the left and 2 on the right. There are 2 big cilinders (to rise the arm and the rear axle) and 2 medium (old) cilinders, to operate the bucket and the counterweight. Here you can see the last cilinder, the pump and the motor, located below the battery box: And here is a short video:
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This MOC came about from my wanting of a super compact all-in-one Lego compressor, and after trying many different auto valve designs (and about a week of building), this is what I came up with: Video: Features: Air tank Automatic pressure switch M motor and 6L mini pump compressor Very compact 15 x 11 x 7 stud size Easy removal of battery box Pneumatic tube lengths: 1x 3L (2.4cm) 2x 10L (8cm) 1x 14L (11.2cm) All the pneumatic tube lengths listed above (and most of the other parts) are available in 8110-1 Unimog U400. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. The compressor uses a single 6L mini pneumatic pump, but can easily be modified for two pumps. The automatic cut-off pressure can easily be adjusted by changing the strength of the rubber bands attached to the pneumatic cylinder.
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I've been fiddling with pneumatic engines for a while now and started to want to push my engine to its possible limits. I'll be running it at higher PSI ratings, my goal is at least 60 PSI, so I'll need to upgrade the tubing (I'm using cheap silicone tubing for the time being). I've seen rigid tubing before in builds such as LPEpower's V8 http://www.lpepower.com/products/pushrod-v8-engine. Does anyone by any chance know where to purchase rigid pneumatic tubing?
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[MOC] Pneumatic Reach Stacker- 42043 C model
BrickbyBrickTechnic posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Hey everyone, My last build of the year features a pneumatic reach stacker built only with parts from 42043. The model contains around 1400 parts, and it is rather small given that part count (only about 40cm long). It contains no PF fro the pump but the space inside is really filled by pneumatic tubes. One thing I wanted to try was to not have the tubes showing all along the boom, so I put them inside the boom. This took up a lot of space. Anyways, I'm happy with the result as everything works well and there are lots of functions: HoG steering with Ackermann geometry Drivetrain connected to a piston engine Pendular rear axle Sliding cabin forward and backward ~ 20 studs rotate grabber (by hand) Extend boom, with safety ratchet to prevent fallback Raise boom (pneumatic) Manipulate wrist (pneumatic) Open/close grabber (pneumatic) And now for the video: And now for some pictures: And that's all. I wish everyone a happy new year! I'm honored to be part of this amazing community and hope that it continues to flourish in the years to come. Thanks for reading! C&C are always appreciated. BbBT -
Hi! As a new member of our large society I'd like to present you one of (as I humbly think) my greatest models so far - the humanoid's arm. Creation has been building by mine for January and February this year. In April it has taken a third place in local competition for students and, as if that wasn't enough, in June I was also presented it at Warsaw, Polish capital. Here's also a humorous entry featured it at Brother's Brick blog: https://www.brothers-brick.com/2018/04/17/judgment-day-starts-with-a-technic-arm/?fbclid=IwAR1f4tKQdujN5YtRemM4K3OmIlpCGO6GcdgWRsEgeJDDWpn7Ayb3K4tl-hs#more-107955 The arm itself is a combination of pneumatic and electric (Power Functions) componenets controlled remotely or by panel with system of valves. It's quite large, even slighty more than actual human's arm. It includes a total of 6 motors, 2 IR receivers, 7 pneumatic cylinders and 4 linear actuators. Features prehensile palm with tendon-like controlled fingers, natural range of thumb's movement, fingers abduction, movable forwards and backwards wrist axis, rotated and elevated forearm. Just look: Also let's see some photos: If you liked it, I'll try to upload some photos and videos of my robots soon! Sorry for my poor English :/
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I’m looking for the part no. of the black rigid tube. At first I thought it was an antenna but I can’t seem to find it. Can anybody help me out? Cheers!
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Probably already done to death, but meh: pneumatics are cool. Here are two air pumps I keep on my shelf for boosting some of my models. The focus is on compact and minimal but also functional design. The first is for first-generation, single-ported pneumatics. It's just a small cylinder connected to a geared 9V motor with a pair of wheels as a crank. Next up, one for the dual-ported system. This one has two blue pumps set 180 degrees apart to smooth the airflow, driven 1:1 through 16-tooth gears by a PF XL motor.
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Yesterday I got my 42080 and of course at first I had to test the new Pneumatic parts. Beside the new valves there's a modified pump 6L in the box. It seems it is so new that it isn't printed on the box :) The modification of the pump is just the outside. Function is still the same. But more important: The new valves. My hope to get a valve with continuously usable lever is broken. The new valve acts mostly like the older ones. Bad news for using with Servo motor: The level goes only 45 Degree in both directions. But, and that is new, it seems to me that there is a new position between "on" and "off" on which the valve throttles the airflow. Maybe someone can test and confirm this. That's all so far. I also made a video showing the new valve in detail.
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https://youtu.be/UFPNWZeeXQw Lego Pneumatic Engine. What is it? How to make it? The first it needs to finish Lego fake cylinder like in this video https://youtu.be/HcHneyewATE or https://youtu.be/0aZvWva41Ek. The second - to add o-ring to Lego piston like in this video https://youtu.be/wZu-l32Dajw or .
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I have been working on this project for what seems like forever. I'm happy to have it done. The full gallery can be found here. Much more at thirdwigg.com. Full Lift With TLG Balloon Tires Chassis
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This MOC was built after 2 other attempts, 2 years ago and these didn't work. (I can explain a little the reasons if someone is interested) The design was difficult to do because of the round shapes. But I think the result is so good. You tell me ! The functions are : Left track Right track Blade Rotation of the turret 1st section of the arm 2nd section of the arm Moving the bucket Rotation of the arm (right/left) Opening/closing the clamp (pneumatic) All the functions are powered by M motors, except the rotation of the turret. But there are 9 functions, and it is possible to control just 8 functions with the IR system. How it's possible ? It's quite simple ! A gearbox allows to choose between "rotation of the arm" or "opening/closing the clamp". The chassis is very compact. It has 4 motors and 1 IR ! The mechanism of the rotation of the turret is not visible (the turret is too compact ! ^^) The rotation is quite fast (not too slow). Here you can see the motor actioning the 1st section of the arm. The motors of the 2nd section of the arm and the bucket are placed inside the arm. The last motor is placed in the middle of the chassis. It actuates the gearbox and you can choose the function to activate. With the clamp, there are a bucket and forks.
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After seeing @jwarner's excellent smalle crane and @Ludo Visser's WIP on a good looking undercarrage, I kept being reminded I still had one of these on my "to-do list". It's the last (I think) in what turned out to be a series for me of small versions of vehicles that are usally the big 4 "flagships" in Technic that return every couple of years. It features: - Boom lift by pneumatic cylinder - 1 stage boom extension - Rope (with old school 90's lock and also a hook from the 90's ) - 3 axle steering with different steering angle for the front wheels (bottom 12T bevel gear at the rear) - Working V4 (allthough a little out of sync, can fix that as soon as Lego actually makes parts to shift direction at this scale on 1 stud instead of 2 ) - Cabin tilt on the superstructure (through a worm gear controlled by 12T bevel on top) - Superstructure rotation (top 12T bevel gear at the back) - Outriggers (couldn't fit a central operating method so they are moved at the rear through the LBG crank shaft parts usually used for fake engines) Stuff I couldn't squeeze in no matter how hard I wanted to: - 2 stage boom extension (with 11L thin pneumatic cylinder). I tried, but with ropes in play I was looking at a 2 studs wide crane without a shell to give it ridigity, anything with 3 and 4 studs in width with the shell still felt very flimsy. And shortly after switching to a 1 stage boom with these 11x3 panels I really started to like that clean look on the crane vs the thin liftarm extravaganza I had in play earlier - A diff (or at least have the fake engine run in some form on both non-steering wheels). I barely managed to get 1 wheel driven. Had to use some ancient 90's Space Shuttle technique with a rubber band to get the stuff routed. I considered a blue clutch gear from the Chiron on the steering shaft, but besides that really killing my ground clearance it wouldn't fit up top thanks to the pneumatic cylinder. Why not leave the feature out? Can't do that when all the other mini's I made had fake engines. It was this or never getting finished pretty much - And as mentioned earlier: the outriggers being controlled by 1 knob. Couldn't route it to the rear, already crowded, the cabin in the front was blocked by steering angle of front wheels and crane up top. I am happy though that they at least can lock into place and lift the whole vehicle. And a couple of more images: Instead of messing with the length of the hubs on the 2 rear steering axles to get different steering angles, I shortened the front steering hubs by 1 stud to get a sharper angle with space lost in height (rear of the driver's cabin) but not in length. It's turning radius is pretty sweet, very small. Tried to get some details in the cabin, but they are missing half of their bottom seats thanks to the steering wheels. Also messed around a little with options to get the outriggers folded into the body as much as possible, not sticking out more than 1 stud up top and when extended looking at a decent angle. Hmmm, now that I am looking at this picture, perhaps I should swap the 4L thin levers for LBG or something to make the fake engine "pop" from the black chassis. Anywho, thanks for watching and reading.
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Hi everyone! Not long ago I finished my latest MOC. And today I finished the corresponding video. So it's time to show it here. Shortest description would be: Stewart platform for Ideas set 21306 „Yellow Submarine“. The longer description is: It's a MOC I built around the Ideas set. It's a fully working stewart platform powered by two pump compressor and controlled by two joysticks. Everything is working pure mechanically and with pneumatic. For better look I used system bricks for the control tower (with female naval engineer) and the housing of compressor and control center. Components: 1x PF L motor 1x PF M motor 1x PF LiPo 2x PF switches 6x Pneumatic V2 cylinder (small thin) 2x Pneumatic V2 pumps 6x Pneumatic Valves some PF cables Looking forward to reading your comments. Best jrx
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how do i steer pneumatics whit ev3 ?
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This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics.
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Hello there! I ran into a small problem recently. I'm trying to synchronize a couple of pneumatic cylinders which are not connected directly to the same frame and they keep extend and retract at different speeds. The hoses are exactly the same length and the cylinders are from the same batch - they are not old+new. But even if I get the synchronization correctly then one of the cylinders does a harsh or abrupt action. For example when the pressure in the system is rising one cylinder starts to operate right away and the second cylinder is "stuck" until the pressure is high enough and it extends abruptly. I've spent couple of hours manually extending and retracting cylinders in order to make them work smoothly without success. Did you have such problem and if so - what was your solution?
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Hi everyone, For the past year, I have been working on this MOC, making very slow progress mostly due to a lack of time. About a month ago, I finally reached the point where I considered it finished. It's not perfect and many things can be improved, but I am happy with the current state. Enough to finally make some pictures and a video. The MOC is based on the Manitou TMT 25S. It is a hydraulic forklift, one that hooks on back of trucks, but uses an unusual design. A picture from the original: It also combines some interesting hydraulic functions which I tried to carry over to my model. In the end, this is the list of functions I managed to implement: Manual steering, control placed at the back, behind the cabin - rear wheel goes 360 degree. Pneumatic compressor using an M motor and two pumps Electric switch to control the compressor Pneumatic functions for: Boom elevation Boom Extension Fork control Front outriggers Boom lateral adjustment Initially, my intent was to have an auto switch for the compressor. However, after many trials, I could not calibrate it properly so that enough pressure remained in the circuit to control all functions properly. The switch would not always return in position when the pressure was dropping, making some functions such as raising the boom unusable. So I replaced the assembly with a manual switch which can easily be controlled when air is required. To smooth out the functions, I used an air tank which is hidden below the control valves in the back. Overall, the functions are working well. The main issue is the control of the fork, which really needs better smoother valves to have finer control. Also, since it is pneumatic, It does not maintain its position when elevating or lowering the boom. I could not find a way to do that while keeping the boom extension which is required. So here are the video and pictures. I hope you enjoy it. More pictures are visible on the BrickSafe folder: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Minique85/manitou-tmt-25s
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Hi, Can someone please tell me if there is a practical maximum hose length for a Lego pneumatic system? The application I have in mind is for ‘remote switching’ of a railway track point. The track point is ~1500mm from where I want the switch. I presume I would be best to use 3rd party hose at these lengths. I’ve tried to search for an answer, but nothing has turned up. Can anybody here help? thanks david edit: ps, I am probably going electrical, but just thought I’d consider a pneumatic solution, though it appears in any case parts for that may be difficult to source.
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[MOC] Ultimate Volvo EW160E - instructions done
Ivan_M posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
EDIT: Finished pictures and video: Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model 42053 is very nice set but I cannot justify buying it when I have all the necessary parts in my collection. In the end I tend to be dissapointed by the official sets due to my overexpectations. So I decided to build by own Volvo wheeled excavator. As usually I build in scale to blueprints, this time the setter wasn't wheels as usually, but length of the main cylinders. This is primary to achieve the best movement range of the arm. In the end the wheels 49,5mm fit precisely and the scale is (my usual) 21,5:1. Width is 15 studs like in the set, wheelbase is 15 studs as opposed to 17 studs in set. I want it to have 7 pneumatic features: 1) bucket emptying 2) arm movement 3) + 4) two piece boom 5) cabin lift 6) front blade 7) rear outridges Additional features: 8) front pendular axle, steered by HOG 9) superstructure rotation by knob I started with the arm and 2-piece boom. The bucket is by far the biggest drawback of the build with its poor shape and mounting points. I have considered other buckets (I have all TLG produced) but this is the best out of bad. Maybe I will try to build better one from bricks in the end. Everything in real machine is very thin when translated to my scale so the arm is build from technic bricks, arm is 1 stud wide with some plating on sides for looks. The two section boom was quite a challenge due to width. I started with dual thin cylinders at the base but they struggled to lift the boom when it was in full reach. The whole boom had to fit within 5 studs so the first section is actually 2 studs wide and second section is 3 studs wide. Fortunatelly it is not very visible because it is covered by cylinders. The arm movement range is very similar to real machine, the only angle that is smaller is between booms due to the length of the old pneumatic cylinder. The next step was undercarringe. This was quite difficult as well, mostly rear outridges. The range of movement for small cylinders is very low and it had to fit in very little space. The reach is not perfect but it is acceptable. They are weak as kitten of course, fron blade as well, but I wanted them operated with pneumatics. There is also drawball connector to mount trailer behind the excavator. The front wheels use my usual setup with small hubs for great turning radius and ackerman geometry. The disadvantage in this case is that the wheels are mounted "wrong" way, with the shallow part facing outwards as opposed to rear. I can live with that however, I just cannot build without ackerman anymore. Last thing I have is the cabin. It is also 6 studs wide as in the set and it is quite similar to that one but more detailed. I have added brick build front lights and some greeblings. The roof is supposed to be yellow of course, I don't have the bricks yet. I'm now working on body. WIP - Arm reach WIP Arm folded WIP - Arm reach upper WIP - Arm reach lower WIP - Cabin WIP - Cabin -
[Idea] Link Two V2 Pneumatic Actuators End to End.
Saberwing40k posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
So, @Fieldtest requested a device to link two of the large V2 pneumatic actuators together, end to end. this is what I came up with, and it is so potentially helpful that I thought it would be worth sharing in its own topic. Pneumatic Cylinder Connection by Saberwing007, on Flickr It's pretty easy to make, but it was a real pain to figure out, because Lego, in their infinite wisdom, made some of the dimensions not a whole number of studs, which is really odd for them. Thus, this build needed some very illegal connections in order to work and be stiff. I've also got some more construction pics: Step 01 by Saberwing007, on Flickr IMG_20171214_180212047 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Step 03 by Saberwing007, on Flickr There you go, I hope you all find this to be useful.
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