Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'narrow gauge'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Guest Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU REGISTER!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
    • The Embassy
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic, Mindstorms & Model Team
    • LEGO Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • LEGO Digital Designer and other digital tools
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Country


Special Tags 1


Special Tags 2


Special Tags 3


Special Tags 4


Special Tags 5


Special Tags 6


Country flag

Found 12 results

  1. G'day All, Something different from me today: Something other than steam traction:) Canberra Lego Users Group (CLUG) like many others has a monthly themed build chellenge. This year I have set myself the additional challenge to make all of my MOCs train related. The August build challenge is Horses, in honour of the traditional Horses Birthday. My build is a horse tram based loosely on the trams that ran on the first public railway in South Australia from Goolwa to Port Elliot. (Photo from www.steamranger.org.au) The horse looked too small on 6 wide track so I tried it on narrow gauge and it looked to have much better proportions. It runs on four small train wheels attached to 2x2 plate axle pieces. The gold 2x2 round plates are from the bell in the Pirates of the Caribbean waterwheel set. I hope you like it, Rob
  2. Durango & Silverton K-36

    Howdy! This is an update of a post I made earlier this year of a Durango & Silverton K-36 narrow gauge locomotive. I recently decided to submit this MOC to the Lego Ideas website as an effort to get Lego to produce more quality train sets. I shared my project with the good people at the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, and I have been blessed to receive their full support and endorsement of my efforts. I consider the D&SNGR to be the finest railroad experience in the country, if not the world. If you haven't had the good fortune to ride with them, do yourself a favor and make plans to go as soon as possible. You will not be disappointed. Check out their Facebook page for information about the railroad and a look at their endorsement of this MOC. https://www.facebook.com/DSNGRR/ If you are passionate about Lego trains, as I am, please visit the Lego Ideas website and show your support for this MOC. Help me convince Lego to make this dream a reality and immortalize the great D&SNGR with the world's greatest toy! https://ideas.lego.com/projects/161449 Back to the MOC. Let's start with the engine. I am not a fan of Lego Digital Designer, so all of my MOCs are built through a trial and error evolutionary process. This is the first picture I stopped to take of the locomotive. By this point, I had nailed down the frame, wheels, and the driving mechanism. I opted for including all the power functions elements in the locomotive rather than the tender. Working on hiding the power functions. Taking shape Experimenting with the stack and the headlight. Finalizing front end. On to the cab. Getting close. Power functions access from the top. The motor makes a nice firebox. A glimpse of how the wheels are powered. Done! Now for a look at the evolution of the passenger car. Finally settling on the SNOT technique for duplicating the look of wood panels and windows with depth. Placing a horizontal stripe in the middle of vertically striped plates was a fun challenge. I eventually found a way to suspend the upper non window portions from the ceiling. I really enjoyed building this car. All done! I didn't really take any pictures of the caboose process. I essentially used the same techniques from the passenger car. The inside is pretty ugly though, as I only had so many pieces available in this color of red. Now for a few shots of the train all together! How about a little scenery? From the good folks at the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad! I took the train to Brickfair in Birmingham, Alabama, and it won staff favorite! Kids loved the bear in the cave. Brickfair is a blast. I highly recommend it to anyone interested in Lego or anyone with kids.
  3. Hey Guys, Currently purchasing parts for my first project (more on that later), but starting plan the next one. I am looking to build a narrow gauge steam locomotive and railway with the Indiana Jones track. I am looking at a classic 4-6-0 ten-wheeler, similar to the Lone Ranger Constitution but scaled more to narrow gauge. Ala Walter E. Disney: or more like Tweetsie No. 12: To scale to narrow gauge on the 3-wide IJ track I wanted to use 50254 for the leading truck wheels and three sets of 55423 for the drivers. My issue is gearing the drivers while still making it look like a steamer on the outside. I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods. So I am asking for your help to design a 3 axle narrow gauge PF bogie, hopefully internally framed. The center axle probably has to be floating to contend with the 3-wide sharp curved IJ track... Any bogie gurus out there?!
  4. To all narrow gauge track enthusiasts: We just finalized our straight narrow gauge track design and we're currently printing the first batch of tracks in black and dark bluish gray (the picture is a bit over-exposed...). We also designed a narrow gauge cross track so you can start building layouts that go beyond a simple loop. But I'm wondering which types of wheel are you using for narrow gauge trains? The reason I'm asking is the following. Cross tracks need a little gap in their tracks, otherwise the trains can't pass. This gives a little bump when the train goes over it. In my standard gauge cross track we added a raised section (see below) like LEGO does in their switches to prevent this 'bump'. The height of the raised section depends on the shape of the wheels. We would like to do the same for the narrow gauge cross track but we also want to be sure we're not creating a problem for a certain type of wheel that is used for some narrow gauge trains. I don't think there is a standard wheel like for the standard gauge trains, right ? Please let me know which wheels you use or any other thoughts / suggestions you might have. Thank you!
  5. LDD MOC: ZET Koncar TMK2200

    Hi all, I've not written to these forums for a while, however I was reading it, now after the new RailBricks Issue 15 came out, including my Stadler FLIRTs I'd like to introduce an another LEGO creation of mine from the last weeks. I spent a long weekend in Zagreb and got inspired by the trams running in the city. they were produced by the croatian Koncar company and are 100% low floor, in 2007 more then 140 of these trams were operating in the capital of Croatia. Additionally, the whole tram network in Zagreb is narrow gauge (1000 mm), which means more fun while designing this tram. I used some solutions from my previous narrow gauge MOC, my Stadler GTW. Pictures, please note, that this tram is still in WIP phase, so slight changes will be made on it: View from the side, only three cars have boogies, two other sections are suspended: Front design, original tram has lot of curves, to make it harder to build from non-curved parts: Reference pictures for the tram: http://www.brickshel...-2200-b-800.jpg http://www.brickshel...k2200-a-600.jpg the gauge is still question for me, the train is 7W, so I could set up "standard" LEGO narrow gauge (when two studs between rail elements, like indiana jones and alien narrow gauge curved tracks), but it fits better to IRL 760 mm tracks than to 1000 mm. To create 1000 mm narrow gauge track I'll need to create tracks for the tram, with 3 studs between rail elements. For driving the tram I plan to use the Power Funtions system, driving the middle section of the train. The distance between the axles is the same what the PF Train Motor has, instead of using gearing and M-motors to drive the tram I'll try to set up with SNOT technique the PF Train Motor above the middle boogie, connecting it with simple 12 tooth bevels, so there will be less energy loss, keeping the speed of the dedicated train motor. Moar pictures later, I hope I will have the money to buy all the things I need for this creation. :) Please leave comments and critics!
  6. Hi, The Norwegian LUG Brikkelauget has just finished its yearly event På Kloss Hold (PKH) As soon as I had my own copy of the 4000014 train I knew that I wanted to build it, and eventually did after acquiring the 3 necessary bricks to finish the build (namely the 2 black '132' bricks as well as the torso of the driver). My MOC at the event was Legoland Billund from the 70ties, encompassing a narrow gauge railway with a motorized 4000014. Given the very small space in the loco, I decided to put an M motor, an old 9V switch and an old 9V battery case in one of the wagons. It proved to work nicely. The narrow gauge design including the switch point design has been found here on Eurobricks. Please welcome the 4000014 in its proper environment: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ Thanks for watching!
  7. Greetings Train Tech, I'd been looking to build something using the Lego narrow gauge track for some time. Eventually, I settled on building a "single Fairlie" locomotive: Fairlie locomotives have their driving wheels on bogies, allowing them to negotiate sharp curves, which makes them useful on narrow-gauge railroads. Most of them are double-ended, with a double-ended boiler and two powered bogies; this model is loosely based on the "single Fairlie" Taliesin of the Ffestiniog Railway in Wales. The entirety of the boiler was built with SNOT, and connects to a 1x6 technic beam in the cab (the connection point is the seam at the very front of the cab). The model was party designed in Lego Digital Designer, and partly done by just messing around in real life. It features a detailed backhead, something I haven't put in any of my locomotives before: Of course, after building a locomotive, I figured I should have some rolling stock to go with it... The crate on the flatcar is from 4563 Load N' Haul Railroad (with the tractor in John Deere colors). The boxcar was essentially built around a 9V battery box and an old 9V motor, and provides power for the entire consist: Full Brickshelf gallery here (once moderation finishes). Let me hear your thoughts!
  8. Hello all, I was trying some Ideas in LDD and was wondering if this will work. Narrow gauge - L gauge Cross by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Also I was wondering which pieces are required for a 1/4 of a circle of narrow gauge track. This because I don't want to spend too much on this. Thanks, Erwin New download
  9. [LDD-MOC] RHB Stadler Allegra

    Hello everyone, I recently designed a new Stadler product in my LDD, after I made it work on Linux 14.04. I designed this train only because I got a little motivation finding this picture on Brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5929835 So I grabbed my LDD and tried making an 8W, but narrow gauge vechile from LEGO bricks, here you can see the first results: Overall view. The entire train wasn't a deal, the most interesting parts could be find on the front and under the train. The only noticable building technique from the side of the train is the 3 stud wide white doors on end waggons - the real thing is wider than two, but less then four. Look from the front. I'm really proud of it, because it looks like much more as the typical FLIRT/GTW look, than my actual existing FLIRT models. Maybe I should upgrade them with this technique. Also the trans yellow cheese can be enlighten by standard LEGO leds, little trick behind it is the 1×2×1 red panel part, which can contain led light. SNOT tiles grants the space for bogie turnout. Some cogwheels missing from modell, LDD doesn't let me to put them inside, but based ony my prototype bogies, it will work. I plan to drive the train with two L-motors and V2 IR-receiver through first and last bogie. I hope once we can develope our 1000 mm gauge LEGO modell system here in Hungary, unfortunately we have only lots of plans, but less time and money to make these things real. Please leave your comments and critics here! I also attached lxf file for those who are interested in details. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/OtherTrainMOC/RHB-StadlerAllegra/allegra.lxf
  10. Narrow gauge and PF

    A German AFOL has managed to make a magnificent Narrow Gauge (Schmalspur in German). Enjoy! Facebook Link to his site (Warning: in German)
  11. Over the last couple of weeks I have been designing a Lego 16mm Scale Narrow Gauge Locomotive based on Roundhouse Engineering Live Steam Locomotive 'Lady Anne', the Lego version is 5 Inches Wide, 6 inches high and 13 inches long, the narrow gauge locomotive is powered by Lego Power Functions XL Motor, Battery Box and Receiver which the Locomotive Body fits over The locomotive body can be separated from the locomotive chassis to allow access to the Lego Power Function Battery Box to turn the power on or change the batteries when needed or to adjust or fix the gearing if something goes wrong. To set the Big Ben Bricks XL train wheels exactly at 32mm Gauge I had to put 3 Nylon Washers between the Lego Technic bricks and the Big Ben Bricks XL train wheels, I used 18 nylon washers, the washers were brought from Modelfixings. The information below shows the dimensions of the nylon washers I used. Thread Size MF Ref Inside Diameter (mm) Outside Diameter (mm) Thickness (mm) M5 MF-NW05 5.3 11 1.0 The Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotive model is not finished, the coal bunkers on the tanks need to be finished, the lids to the water tanks need to be added, the cylinders and the connecting rod to the coupling rod need to be added, the rear coal bunker needs to be added, plus other details like pipes, outlining and naming plate, working front and rear lamps. I may be adding Brandbright Centre Buffer Coupling which will be permantly fixed to the locomotive by drill a hole in the spot where the current buffer, this is so I can try to pull some 16mm coaching stock with my Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotiv. A back view of the Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotive body, the holes in the back are for Lego Technic Pin with Stop Bush (Part 32054) which bolts the locomotive body to the locomotive chassis. A front view of the Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotive body, the Dish 8 x 8 Inverted (Radar) has to be removed allowing me access to Technic Pin with Stop Bush (Part 32054) which bolts the locomotive body to the locomotive chassis. A top view of Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive showing the boiler and the unfinished tank tops (coal bunker and water tanks lids to be added). A another top view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive, the cab roof is temporary as the bricks I will be using have not arrived, and the back small round brick is where the whistle will be once I have the rights color bricks. A view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the Lego Power Functions XL Motor, Battery Box and Receiver. Another view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing how wide the Locomotive is compared to the 0 gauge track. Side view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the red coupling rod (Lego Technic Liftarm, 15 L). A back view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the red buffer plate with the single buffer which will be replaced by a Brandbright Central coupling buffer (90 % of 16mm narrow gauge locomotives and rolling stock have a single central buffer with a hook for a 3 length chain to be attached). Another back view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the rear buffer, Lego Power Functions XL Motor and the wire channel (used to keep the wire tidy and away from the gearing and allowing easy fitting of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive body. A front view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis A view of the bottom of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the wheels correctly set at 32mm gauge A closeup view of the bottom of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the coupling rods and six Technic Gear - 24 Tooth which allow me to get the coupling rods working ( might be replaced by Big Ben Bricks Medium Train Blind Driver). A close up view of the bottom of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis, showing some of nylon washers I got from modelfixings, the washers allow me to set the wheels to 32mm gauge. One of the nylon washers I use. close up view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the front end of the locomotive chassis with the two Lego Technic Pins with Stop Bush (Part 32054) are in a Lego 1x4 Technic brick which is the same height as the Lego Technic brick in the front of the locomotive body. close up view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the read end of the locomotive chassis with the two Lego Technic Pins with Stop Bush (Part 32054) are in two Lego 1x1 Technic brick which is the same height as the Lego Technic bricks in the rear of the locomotive body. Youtube Video of Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive Running Link
  12. MOC: Narrow Gauge Stadler GTW

    Indexed by Moderator After a long time I'd like to introduce my new train MOC, which one is actually my first 6-wide train, the narrow-gauge Stadler GTW. Fig.1: The whole train on brick-built train track. The second meeting in 2012 of hungarian LEGO users group (MALUG) was held last weekend in Budapest. Before this event on of our LUG members called others to build narrow gauge vechiles for the meeting. After thinking about my possibilities and favourited vechiles I started to build the first popular vechile of Stadler, the GTW. The coloring of this train is not autenthic, there are no OBB/SBB colored GTWs in narrow gauge, but I had only red and white bricks to use. The real challenge was to build the PF-system into the train and make it able to run on narrow-gauge train track (the curved track pieces from Indiana Jones sets in dark bluish gray and from Space sets in black). The LUG member called others to build narrow-gauge vechiles set up a test-track for all trains, built from this curved track pieces, including two S-turns. That was the test-track (with the little green train): http://www.brickshel...11/dsc_1882.jpg Firstly I've realized, that I've had to build one and half windows less to the modell then the original train. The radius of these curve is 27 stud, and my train actual length is 90 studs. The middle-section contains two PF M-motors, both of them are driving one axle via 12 tooth-gear wheels. One of the low-floor sections contains the battery box and the IR-reciever. The train has two yellow front lights on each end, PF leds' cables are hidden in the roof. Fig.2: Driven axles and coupling solution for the train. Left side coupled, right disconnected. The coupling enables about 75° turnout and looks like closed until 30° turnout. Fig.3: Turnout. However I did not have test track for the meeting, the train succeded to run on the test track. The most 'engineering' success for me is the coupling solution. Using SNOT slopes by the coupling looks really great, they are avaliable in lot of colors, and you don't need rubber. This method will work for trains with Jacobs-boogies, too, the only difference is, that the middle section is narrower. The front part of the train is built of prepared modules, it can be repared, changed without getting of the train from the rails. Fig.4: Modules forming the train front with power functions lights built in. Hope you enjoyed, please comment you critics here. AV