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Found 30 results

  1. Hello All: I'm starting this topic as a way for LEGO Train fans to ask questions about sets, track compatibility, power systems, and any other questions pertaining to LEGO Trains. All are invited to participate. Edit: Please note that set discontinuation should be discussed in the appropriate thread.
  2. Ashi Valkoinen

    LDD MOC: ZET Koncar TMK2200

    Hi all, I've not written to these forums for a while, however I was reading it, now after the new RailBricks Issue 15 came out, including my Stadler FLIRTs I'd like to introduce an another LEGO creation of mine from the last weeks. I spent a long weekend in Zagreb and got inspired by the trams running in the city. they were produced by the croatian Koncar company and are 100% low floor, in 2007 more then 140 of these trams were operating in the capital of Croatia. Additionally, the whole tram network in Zagreb is narrow gauge (1000 mm), which means more fun while designing this tram. I used some solutions from my previous narrow gauge MOC, my Stadler GTW. Pictures, please note, that this tram is still in WIP phase, so slight changes will be made on it: View from the side, only three cars have boogies, two other sections are suspended: Front design, original tram has lot of curves, to make it harder to build from non-curved parts: Reference pictures for the tram: http://www.brickshel...-2200-b-800.jpg http://www.brickshel...k2200-a-600.jpg the gauge is still question for me, the train is 7W, so I could set up "standard" LEGO narrow gauge (when two studs between rail elements, like indiana jones and alien narrow gauge curved tracks), but it fits better to IRL 760 mm tracks than to 1000 mm. To create 1000 mm narrow gauge track I'll need to create tracks for the tram, with 3 studs between rail elements. For driving the tram I plan to use the Power Funtions system, driving the middle section of the train. The distance between the axles is the same what the PF Train Motor has, instead of using gearing and M-motors to drive the tram I'll try to set up with SNOT technique the PF Train Motor above the middle boogie, connecting it with simple 12 tooth bevels, so there will be less energy loss, keeping the speed of the dedicated train motor. Moar pictures later, I hope I will have the money to buy all the things I need for this creation. :) Please leave comments and critics!
  3. The "Schlossgartenbahn" is a small 600mm narrow gauge park-railway running in the park of the castle in Karlsruhe. It was built in 1967 for the "Bundesgartenschau" and is still running during summer. From the original trains, only the "Porschelog" is active (again). But there are two other engines: one steamer and a Diesel. (More information and images can be found on this german wikipedia page) Years ago I built the railway in a rather large scale. In the meantime circuit cubes and trixbrix tracks became available and so I did it again in mini-figure scale. coupling rods are from Both trains are powered by a circuit cubes motor - the receiver/battery is "hidden" in the first coach. Additional weight is needed to get enough traction to move the coaches with the small LEGO wheels. They do no run a smooth as standard LEGO train wheels. I tried to hide the wheels of the coaches completely to have the same look as the original. Video of both trains - they both handle R24(!) curves. Last summer I tested the steam train on "rough terrain":
  4. Dear AFOL trainheads, After almost six months of designing work, another five months of construction, countless bursts of temper, and being relieved of a small fortune, I am very proud to present my latest locomotive MOC. This time, it’s a 2-10-2T narrow gauge (760 mm) steam locomotive, class 600.76, of the Bulgarian State Railways (Balgarski darzhavni zheleznitsi, BDŽ). Basically an enlarged version of the German DRG Baureihe 99.73, the first five locomotives of the class were built in 1940 by BMAG (formerly L. Schwartzkopff) in Berlin for hauling all kinds of trains on the mountainous Rhodope railway from Septemvri to Dobrinishte. Delivering about 850 hp, the engines were extraordinarily powerful by the time’s standards for single-frame narrow gauge locomotives. They were so successful that the BDŽ were keen to acquire more, but after the Bulgarian Tsardom had turned into a communist republic at the end of WW II, it became almost impossible to buy industrial goods from German manufacturers. Thus another 10 engines were delivered in 1949 by Fablok in Chrzanów, Poland. These Polish-built locomotives were technically identical to the original Schwartzkopff ones, but could easily be distinguished from the first series by the combined steam/sand dome casing and the odd-looking smoke deflectors, which seem quite ridiculous on an engine with a top speed of no more than 45 km/h! From 1966 on, after new diesel locomotives had arrived at Septemvri, all class 600.76 locomotives were relocated to Cherven Bryag in northern Bulgaria. Several have survived until today, albeit most of them in desperate condition. One engine – No. 609.76, however, is in operational state (now stationed in Septemvri again) and regularly used for excursion trains. My model portrays a locomotive from the second series as it ran in the late 1960s, some years after the whole class had been equipped with compressed-air brake and supplementary oil firing. As opposed to the drawing, it therefore has a shortened right side tank (to make room for the air compressor), air reservoirs below the rear tank and an extended coal/oil bunker. The model is in accurate 1:22.5 scale except for the track gauge, which according to G-scale standard is always 45 mm regardless of the prototype’s actual value (as mentioned before, class 600.76 has 760 mm, or 33.8 mm in 1:22.5). Therefore, it matches LGB garden railway track and rolling stock. Dimensions and height of the coupling bars are designed in a way that they work with LGB link-and-pin couplers. Three PF L-motors working on the central driving axle are responsible for propulsion, with the other drivers (BBB XL) being coupled by the side rods, just as in the real thing. One BuWizz brick allows to remote-control running direction as well as speed, and serves as a power supply for the lights (separately switchable front/rear headlights, combined cab & running gear lights). The LED equipment was purchased from Brickstuff; valve gear parts and main rods were supplied by zephyr1934. The running gear layout proved to be quite a challenge. The leading and trailing axle are of the Bissell type and can swing out by 9°. Of the driving axles, the second and third one are blind, while the fourth one is slidable laterally by +/- ½ stud. With this configuration, the engine is running stably on straight track, yet also able to negotiate LGB R3 curves and switches (1195 mm radius). The model consists of more than 3200 parts and weighs about 2.2 kg. Enough said – enjoy the pictures! Some views of the engine frame. For reasons of stability, I had to fill the prototypic cutouts with trans-clear plates and bricks. You can see the steam inlet pipes running to the cylinders on the outside, as well as the exhaust pipes inside the frame, leading steam to the exhaust nozzle in the smokebox. Underneath, the brake rigging is also reproduced: The leading/trailing trucks. The tongue connecting the truck to the main frame is free from load, which means that it could be kept prototypically thin; the engine weight is supported by the axle bearings via the 4x4 tile on top. Fully detailed cab interior, including a tiltable ”Marcotty“ type firebox door and functional folding seats: Complete smokebox interior as well. The exhaust nozzle, spark arrestor, smoke stack bottom, boiler tube openings and superheater tubes are visible: Plenty of water in the side tanks: Some boiler details, among others showing the generator hidden behind the smoke deflectors: The combined oil/coal bunker can be removed to give access to the power button and the charging socket: The three magnetic switches for the lights are hidden in the rear toolbox: Posing in front of a historic BDŽ crest: The cab lettering: The lights: Some matching, albeit non-purist decoration (1:24 GAZ M20 Pobeda by Yatming, 1:22 [sic!] VAZ/Lada 2106 by Avtoprom)… A short video, showing the valve gear in motion. Note that unlike many conventional model locomotives, the valve stem is really pushed back and forth. A video of the engine pulling an LGB G-scale train will follow as soon as possible. As always, you can download the lxf file here. Also, more and much larger pictures can be found in my Bricksafe folder. Finally, I’d like to say special thanks to Sergio Monai, who with his fruitful feedback and proposals kept me stimulated to achieve the best possible result! Comments are of course most appreciated – thanks for stopping by! Best regards, Sven Edit: New video here!
  5. Dear train lovers, It's time for another locomotive MOC! As a tribute to my favourite holiday region (where in fact I am right now, writing this), I chose the Flensburger Kreisbahn's No. 1, a 0-8-0T narrow gauge locomotive, as a prototype. The Flensburger Kreisbahn ("Flensburg county railway") was a 1000 mm gauge railway in Germany's extreme North, with two lines (94 km in total) running through the hills of Anglia close to the Danish border. When the railway's older, saturated-steam locomotives became too weak to handle increased train loads, two new superheated-steam engines were ordered from AEG in Berlin - yes, there was a time when AEG, famous for its electrical devices, also built steam locomotives! Delivered in 1926, these 0-8-0T engines, numbered 1 and 2, were an immediate success. With approx. 300 hp and a permitted speed of 40 km/h, they were suited for both freight and heavy passenger trains and remained in service until the railway's closure in 1953. Sadly, both locomotives were scrapped. A substantial problem while designing the model was the almost complete lack of reliable sources. All technical information had to be derived from a short description, some b/w photos and a single small drawing in just one book (Schöning/Kupfer: Die Flensburger Kreisbahnen. Verlag Kenning, Nordhorn, 2004; the drawing is reproduced below with kind permission by Mr Kenning). Nevertheless, I'm confident that my model comes as close as possible to the real engines. The MOC consists of approx. 2,200 parts and weighs just under 1.5 kg. It is held in accurate 1:22.5 scale, therefore compatible with conventional garden railway equipment (45 mm G-scale track), and can be coupled to rolling stock fitted out with LGB link-and-pin couplers. My layout uses the LGB R3 radius (1195 mm), so the locomotive has to be able to negotiate these curves. However, as I wanted to avoid the use of blind drivers for aesthetical reasons, this required two little tricks: The last axle is slidable sideways by +/- 1/2 stud, and the second axle's wheels are slightly set inwards, resulting in an increased lateral track play. Although this arrangement causes some drag while negotiating curves, it nevertheless works. The locomotive is driven by two L-motors. A BuWizz functions as both a battery pack and remote control receiver. The lighting equipment was bought from Brickstuff, while the wheels are BBB XL drivers, as usual. Purists may kindly ignore the two following scenes... Of course, the engine crew was proud to pose for a souvenir photo. Even the local grocer came to have a look at the new locomotive. The engine frame: While my previous BDZ 606.76 had its focus on exploring the possible level of detailing for a LEGO model, this time the goal was to design a simple locomotive for uncomplicated operation. Above all, the new model had to overcome the 606.76's proneness to tipping over. Thus, the frame houses two weight bricks for improved traction and a lower centre of gravity (highlighted in blue): Some views of the brake rigging and the two large vacuum-brake cylinders: All drivetrain components, including the BuWizz, are tightly packed and positioned as low and as close to the engine's centre as possible, again with the aim of optimizing the COG: The power button and the charging socket are accessible by removing part of the boiler top: The cylinders, closed-type feedwater heater (system "Knorr"), and generator: The upper part of the cab. While looking quite simple, the task to model the roof's half-stud offset and the vent hole in the cab front almost drove me nuts... But I think I found a satisfying solution: Cab interior and lights: This time there was no space for magnetic switches to control the headlights; so the coal bunker contains two small separate battery packs (with built-in switches) for front and rear lights. The cab is illuminated, too, when any of the two circuits is turned on. Realistic Winterthur valve gear. The basic dimensions are the same as on my BDZ 606.76: Originally, I had used zephyr1934's rods and valve gear parts again. But then I found them to be looking too massive , considering the rather delicate rods of the prototype. Besides, during the first functional testing sessions of the near-completed model, the flex elements which I originally used for the side rods proved too large by just a fraction of a millimetre - the cable connectors collided with the rear mounting of the crosshead guide, something which could not be foreseen in LDD. So I knuckled down to get used to Tinkercad and designed my own rods, including thinner, slightly tapezoidal main rods as well (both subsequently made by Shapeways). And for the first time - SMOKE (using a Seuthe No. 99 smoke generator, powered by the BuWizz via a modified PF cable): I finished the model just in time before going on holiday, so I had no time to shoot a video on track. Of course, I'll do this when I'm back home again. In the meantime, your feedback, comments and criticism are most welcome! As usual, high-resolution images can be found in my Bricksafe folder. If someone should be interested in the LDD file, please contact me by PM. Thanks for stopping by! Best regards, Sven Edit: Now with on-track video - see here!
  6. Here's some narrow gauge track I've been working on as research for a LUG project. None of these models use 3rd-party parts, which will be a big help at a show when someone asks "Is this all Lego?" First, some straight track: The track on the left uses the straight rail piece, whereas the one on the right uses ordinary tiles held in clips. The gauge is very slightly smaller (20.8mm vs 21.33mm), but trains still run smoothly on it. Incidentally: the rail, the 1x4x1 fence, and the 1x4x2 fence have a rare dimension of 1/3 of a stud. I used the tile-in-clips technique to make an adapter rail for the narrow gauge curves: There are 4 studs of lead-in, of which 1 stud is taken up by the tabs on the curve track. A 1x1x1 panel takes up part of the gap on the outer rail; without it, wheels can drop into the gap and derail. Of course I ballasted a curve... ... and combined two curves into a module: The 4-stud lead-in gives the track an effective radius of 28 studs (centerline). This works out nicely for having a narrow-gauge track take up the outermost 8 studs on a MILS module. And finally, a major breakthrough: A reliable brick-built switch that does not use third party parts, and does not stress any parts! This reliably switches trains between two tracks 8 studs apart. Trains returning from the diverging tracks will "flip" the point instead of derailing, meaning it's possible make a reversing loop. Next up: Ballasting the switch and building locomotives!
  7. It has been a long time coming but here's a proper LEGO Train MOC showcase of my Malayan Railway (MR) 20 Class Narrow Gauge Locomotive. The MR 20 Class is the first main line diesel-electric locomotive which made its debut in Malaya in 1957. A total of twenty-six locomotives were manufactured by English Electric Co at Vulcan Foundry, United Kingdom. In its roughly thirty years of service, the 20 Class hauled both the passenger express and freight between Singapore and Malaysia. The last 20 Class was decommissioned in the early 1990s. This MR 20 Class model is controlled by a PFx Brick, powered by 1x PF L-motor, fitted with lights (2x main headlights and 4x side lights) and accurate engine sound profile based on BR Class 31 as they both shared the same engine, EE12SVT. The toughest part hands down was the decals.. more specifically the lettering on the side which stands for 'Malayan Railway' in Bahasa Melayu. My decal shop had each letter made separately which means I had to meticulously place them along the body. The nose stripes were finicky to handle but sticks on perfectly. Here are some photos of the LEGO MR 20 Class: If anyone was wondering what the actual MR 20 Class looks like: Hope you enjoyed this Train MOC showcase! Follow me on Flickr, Instagram or Youtube if you want to see more of my other narrow gauge trains. :D Power Function L-Motor and Battery Box: PFx Brick: PFx LED Lights and XL-Speaker: TrixBrix Narrow Gauge Tracks:
  8. Hey everyone, am back with my latest MOC of the Malayan Railway 15 Class Shunter. Built in 1948 by English Electric at the Vulcan Foundry, the 15 Class has many characteristics of similar machines being designed and built in the UK such as BR08 shunter. The 15 Class shunter was Malayan Railway's (KTMB) first diesel locomotive used specifically for shunting freight and passenger coaches. The LEGO 15 Class shunter is 8-studs wide and runs on the TrixBrix 4-wide tracks to match the narrow gauge scale of the real life locomotive. The model is powered by 1x L motor and controlled by the standard Power Function IR. As for batteries, the model uses an adapter to connect the rectangular batteries to the IR because the standard LEGO PF battery box does not fit in there. The shunter runs on Big Ben Bricks Medium sized wheels. Coupling rods and front ladder are from TrainedBricks. The front section was especially tough to replicate as it is sloping ever so gently towards the front and the sides. Also, this is one of my entries for the Brick Train Awards 2021 for the 'Best Other LEGO Locomotive'. Here's a video of the 15 Class shunting at 'shunter' speed.
  9. After having seen the great design for a LEGO narrow gauge by Maik and David I wanted to build my own narrow gauge LEGO train. Prototype should be the train connecting Mosbach and Mudau from 1905-1973 . I'm too young, so I have never seen the real trains but I know the route from numerous biking trips in my childhood. Today there is a bicycle track on the former railway. Then I got a book about the "Odenwald-Express" and I finally started building it in LEGO. The main actors are two engines - diesel engine class V52 and steam engine class 99 720: There is also a passenger train ... ... and a freight train: With working rollbocks for "standard" gauge wagons: Both trains are driven by standard LEGO train motors - using the brilliant design of Maik and David Schenker: There are more pictures in the flickr album.
  10. ...yet another narrow gauge train... Inspiration is still the "Borkumer Kleinbahn" - they also have a steam engine for special events. It's driven by PoweredUp. The cable is strong enough to be used as coupling. Works in both directions - pushing and pulling. I tried to reduce wobbling and shaking by adding extra weight. It runs on tracks built from the old LEGO tracks and on Trixbrix narrow gauge tracks:
  11. I built another narrow gauge train - prototype is the "Borkumer Kleinbahn" connecting the harbour and the town on the island Borkum in the North Sea. It's driven with a Power Functions M-motor: This kind of drive was designed by 1000Steine users Lok24 and Flogo. I also made instructions on rebrickable . It runs pretty well on a custom built layout - using the old LEGO tracks:
  12. thic_trains

    Narrow gauge motor system

    Hello, I'm a huge train fan and have a section in my city where I have e a narrow gauge. Does anyone have a File or instruction file for a chassis? I really need one as I am very bad with the technic system. also, If you want, just send me a pic of the underside. I will figure it out from there.
  13. Using the LEGO standard gauge I built the same diesel engine as shown in a previous post with a different scale. It's the V-52 of the Deutsche Bundesbahn - running in the 1960s between Mosbach and Mudau. LEGO standard gauge is almost 40mm (5studs). The real train ran on 1000m, so I chose a scale of 1/25 - one stud is 20cm, 5 studs is 1m. The engine is 12wide and approx 50 studs long. It's powered by 2 XL Power Functions motors and remote controlled by a BuWizz. It's designed for standard LEGO gauge, but can only handle R72 (and greater) curves. To run smoothly additional weight is needed (metal spare parts from shelves) - it weighs 1.7kg. (It was my entry for the Brick Train Awards - "Best Other Locomotive" in Europe)
  14. Bricknave

    [MOC] Emerald 4-Wide Train

    I used pieces and inspiration from both 31015-1 Emerald Express and 10194-1 Emerald Night to create a compact narrow-gauge train: Most of the inspiration for this came from 31015-1 Emerald Express after I modified it to fit on the minecart rails provided by 7199-1 Temple of Doom. The passenger car can seat up to 4 Minifigures. Both sides can be accessed thanks to hinges. Making room for the engineer was the most challenging design aspect. Thank you for viewing!
  15. It's been a long time since I've posted a MOC over here on Eurobricks, but I thought some of you might find the narrow gauge trains in this video interesting, given they're based on trains from Leighton Buzzard in the heart of England (built for the OcTRAINber Foreign Challenge). The black loco is a Hudswell Clarke "Ganges" class, with a rake of tilt skips filled with sand. Watch to the end of the video to see how I motorised such tiny trains.
  16. To all narrow gauge track enthusiasts: We just finalized our straight narrow gauge track design and we're currently printing the first batch of tracks in black and dark bluish gray (the picture is a bit over-exposed...). We also designed a narrow gauge cross track so you can start building layouts that go beyond a simple loop. But I'm wondering which types of wheel are you using for narrow gauge trains? The reason I'm asking is the following. Cross tracks need a little gap in their tracks, otherwise the trains can't pass. This gives a little bump when the train goes over it. In my standard gauge cross track we added a raised section (see below) like LEGO does in their switches to prevent this 'bump'. The height of the raised section depends on the shape of the wheels. We would like to do the same for the narrow gauge cross track but we also want to be sure we're not creating a problem for a certain type of wheel that is used for some narrow gauge trains. I don't think there is a standard wheel like for the standard gauge trains, right ? Please let me know which wheels you use or any other thoughts / suggestions you might have. Thank you!
  17. Paperinik77pk

    MOC - Garden Toy Train - 12-wide

    Hi all, some days ago I was watching some videos of LGB G-Gauge trains running in the garden. They're big and very well done...and really out of budget for me. So I wondered if I could replicate such a big locomotive using Lego. And trying to be cheap!!! A big train like that needs: an XXL PF Motor; a simple PF battery box; a PF receiver; a PF remote control. All in all we're at about 50 Euros from Lego Shop. 4 large flanged wheels from Lego or BBB (3 Euros each - 12 Euros) - our total increases to, let's say, 65 euros. Then, it's time to think about a body - it must be as simple as possible, sturdy, and without too many special parts. Since I was not particularly inspired (in these days I'm playing a lot with the new Lego Boost set) , I used a well known Lego model. Yes, it is what is seems - a 7720 multiplied by 2 - 32 studs long, 12 studs wide. Even the Voltage is doubled . This was painted blue, otherwise the two red "lights" would disappear. Since track is now quite small - I chose to draw only one central buffer, suggesting this is a narrow gauge model. As you can see it is simple as it can be. I think I can try to stay below the 100 euros limit. Then, this weekend I began to prepare the mock-up to test how heavy it could be, if everything fits inside and so on. Here below you can see the yet unfinished 7720 on steroids . In this photo I used a 45mm track from G-gauge - it is actually a part of LGB track. This big girl will be able to travel on both tracks. Reasoning in studs, the L-gauge puts 4 studs between the wheels, while the G-gauge requires exactly 5 studs. Since wheels will be mounted internally respect to the fake suspensions, both gauges can be achieved by adding or removing two half Technic bushes between the wheels (one per side, so 4 studs + 0.5 stud + 0.5 stud =5 studs). But we want to be cheap - and LGB track are not - so we'll keep the standard Lego track. You cannot see it from the photos, but the black part is all made by 3x2 and 4x2 parts - too small - but I had only those around. Inter-axle is 15 studs - BBB wheels can handle the R40 radius, but this is an heavy locomotive, so I think I'll shorten the inter-axle to 13 studs. Now I'm studying how to transmit power to the wheels - I was tempted to use a chain-driven system based on lego 3711 parts, but it costs a lot and I'm not sure how much weight and torque it can handle. I'll end using the Lego 32702 gears - they seem right and are cheap enough. Let's see how this develops!!! I personally am very curious to see it in action! Ciao! Davide
  18. M_slug357

    [MOC] Narrow Gauge & 9V

    Hello fellow train heads, Today I have for your viewing pleasure a 9V system that's been adapted for Lego narrow gauge (4 stud wide) track: NG: 9V shunter (3) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Here's the engine up close: NG: 9V shunter (1) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr And the underside: NG: 9V shunter (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Now here's a video of it in operation: NG: 9V shunter (vid 1) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr It's pretty finicky in operation at the moment, so I'm looking for your input on ways that I can improve this system! The two main areas that need help are 1) the engine's traction and 2) the electrical pickups. Thanks in advance for your help! ~Nick J~
  19. Hi all, this time I'd like to show you something that is a bit different. It is more a study, or an experiment than a real model. It's is a very small narrow gauge locomotive, inspired by an hand-made creation of Mr. Akio Inoue (who is a famous live steam builder in Japan). The locomotive is depicted on Mr. Mori Iroshi site, which is of great inspiration to me. There's also a Youtube channel (simply search AKUBI LR on Google, you''l find it immediately). Let's say it is a mix between a DEKI-3 and a Rhatische-Bahn GE 2/2 162. Once it was yellow, now it has RhB colors. It's a bit "Japanese" since it has a super-deformed body, it is more tall than long. "Power" (HA HA HA ) is coming from a 9v micromotor mounted upside-down, and there's a working headlight. It needs a battery car to work. I use it on black narrow-gauge Lego curved track, but I recently discovered that LEMAX track has the same gauge and offers straight tracks (no switches, sorry ). It is sloooooooooooooooooooow! I hope you like this little,nerdish thing! It's name is PKZIP (like the file compression archiver for DOS PCs of the past)
  20. Hi to all, Here is a short video of the last event I participate with All spanish replicas of Renfe from Aitoruco and myself. 2 diferent loops with r104 custom curves (printed by blastem), 20Bps cable bridge (Designed by Sheppo), R104 trains (designed by Aitoruco and MTRkustoms) and also working narrow gauge (by MTRkustoms) Enjoy it
  21. G'day All, Something different from me today: Something other than steam traction:) Canberra Lego Users Group (CLUG) like many others has a monthly themed build chellenge. This year I have set myself the additional challenge to make all of my MOCs train related. The August build challenge is Horses, in honour of the traditional Horses Birthday. My build is a horse tram based loosely on the trams that ran on the first public railway in South Australia from Goolwa to Port Elliot. (Photo from The horse looked too small on 6 wide track so I tried it on narrow gauge and it looked to have much better proportions. It runs on four small train wheels attached to 2x2 plate axle pieces. The gold 2x2 round plates are from the bell in the Pirates of the Caribbean waterwheel set. I hope you like it, Rob
  22. Captain Redbeard

    Durango & Silverton K-36

    Howdy! This is an update of a post I made earlier this year of a Durango & Silverton K-36 narrow gauge locomotive. I recently decided to submit this MOC to the Lego Ideas website as an effort to get Lego to produce more quality train sets. I shared my project with the good people at the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, and I have been blessed to receive their full support and endorsement of my efforts. I consider the D&SNGR to be the finest railroad experience in the country, if not the world. If you haven't had the good fortune to ride with them, do yourself a favor and make plans to go as soon as possible. You will not be disappointed. Check out their Facebook page for information about the railroad and a look at their endorsement of this MOC. If you are passionate about Lego trains, as I am, please visit the Lego Ideas website and show your support for this MOC. Help me convince Lego to make this dream a reality and immortalize the great D&SNGR with the world's greatest toy! Back to the MOC. Let's start with the engine. I am not a fan of Lego Digital Designer, so all of my MOCs are built through a trial and error evolutionary process. This is the first picture I stopped to take of the locomotive. By this point, I had nailed down the frame, wheels, and the driving mechanism. I opted for including all the power functions elements in the locomotive rather than the tender. Working on hiding the power functions. Taking shape Experimenting with the stack and the headlight. Finalizing front end. On to the cab. Getting close. Power functions access from the top. The motor makes a nice firebox. A glimpse of how the wheels are powered. Done! Now for a look at the evolution of the passenger car. Finally settling on the SNOT technique for duplicating the look of wood panels and windows with depth. Placing a horizontal stripe in the middle of vertically striped plates was a fun challenge. I eventually found a way to suspend the upper non window portions from the ceiling. I really enjoyed building this car. All done! I didn't really take any pictures of the caboose process. I essentially used the same techniques from the passenger car. The inside is pretty ugly though, as I only had so many pieces available in this color of red. Now for a few shots of the train all together! How about a little scenery? From the good folks at the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad! I took the train to Brickfair in Birmingham, Alabama, and it won staff favorite! Kids loved the bear in the cave. Brickfair is a blast. I highly recommend it to anyone interested in Lego or anyone with kids.
  23. Hey Guys, Currently purchasing parts for my first project (more on that later), but starting plan the next one. I am looking to build a narrow gauge steam locomotive and railway with the Indiana Jones track. I am looking at a classic 4-6-0 ten-wheeler, similar to the Lone Ranger Constitution but scaled more to narrow gauge. Ala Walter E. Disney: or more like Tweetsie No. 12: To scale to narrow gauge on the 3-wide IJ track I wanted to use 50254 for the leading truck wheels and three sets of 55423 for the drivers. My issue is gearing the drivers while still making it look like a steamer on the outside. I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods. So I am asking for your help to design a 3 axle narrow gauge PF bogie, hopefully internally framed. The center axle probably has to be floating to contend with the 3-wide sharp curved IJ track... Any bogie gurus out there?!
  24. Hi, The Norwegian LUG Brikkelauget has just finished its yearly event På Kloss Hold (PKH) As soon as I had my own copy of the 4000014 train I knew that I wanted to build it, and eventually did after acquiring the 3 necessary bricks to finish the build (namely the 2 black '132' bricks as well as the torso of the driver). My MOC at the event was Legoland Billund from the 70ties, encompassing a narrow gauge railway with a motorized 4000014. Given the very small space in the loco, I decided to put an M motor, an old 9V switch and an old 9V battery case in one of the wagons. It proved to work nicely. The narrow gauge design including the switch point design has been found here on Eurobricks. Please welcome the 4000014 in its proper environment: Thanks for watching!
  25. Greetings Train Tech, I'd been looking to build something using the Lego narrow gauge track for some time. Eventually, I settled on building a "single Fairlie" locomotive: Fairlie locomotives have their driving wheels on bogies, allowing them to negotiate sharp curves, which makes them useful on narrow-gauge railroads. Most of them are double-ended, with a double-ended boiler and two powered bogies; this model is loosely based on the "single Fairlie" Taliesin of the Ffestiniog Railway in Wales. The entirety of the boiler was built with SNOT, and connects to a 1x6 technic beam in the cab (the connection point is the seam at the very front of the cab). The model was party designed in Lego Digital Designer, and partly done by just messing around in real life. It features a detailed backhead, something I haven't put in any of my locomotives before: Of course, after building a locomotive, I figured I should have some rolling stock to go with it... The crate on the flatcar is from 4563 Load N' Haul Railroad (with the tractor in John Deere colors). The boxcar was essentially built around a 9V battery box and an old 9V motor, and provides power for the entire consist: Full Brickshelf gallery here (once moderation finishes). Let me hear your thoughts!