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Found 7 results

  1. Zerobricks

    BuWizz Motor

    You can find a sneak preview od the 3D printed sample on our IG: Performance is around 10% faster RPM and torque compared to the 5292 motor (cca 20% more power). The polyfuse protection will be increased from 0,9 A to around 1,35 A - still testing the balance between performance and longetivity. Improved attachment possiblities, everything fits as it should in the studless building system The final version color will be between LGB and DBG. It will come with a 30 cm long PF cable plug, so it's compatible with BuWizz 2.0 and PF. Preorder here: More info when it becomes available.
  2. I couldn't find any posts with information I needed, so I started a new topic. I have 2 5292 RC Buggy motors that are howling a need lubrication. How do I take them apart? I have both oil and grease from my model trains that I could use.
  3. A fast Lego Technic car. There will be more pictures and a full video in a weeks time or less.
  4. HorcikDesigns

    [MOC] No Lane Blacktop

    EDIT: New version in post 10! EDIT2: Chassis in post 13. ________________________________________________________________ 5292, Servo, Li-Po, V2. Do you need hear anything more? Well, these specifications are also important - this this car features full live axle suspension - in front leaf flex cable springs, rear axle is equipped with (approximately) two soft spring shocks. Slightly inspired by Chevy Bel-air '57 I am not satisfied with rear fenders, but the performance of this little beast is great! Be sure to check it out! More photos:
  5. HorcikDesigns


    Hi, VIDEO of this beast on YouTube: All Photos: Driven by one, directly mounted buggy motor (5292), powered by Li-Po BB, weight under 700g. Very fast thing, is nearly able to drift on (slightly wet) rough asphalt. Two days later after the first photo-action, I returned to this project, improved the rear spoiler mounting, added the front part, and (for me) unfortunatelly also changed the rims. Hope you like both versions, and if you like it, check the Brickshelf folder with LDD instructions to build this fast thing. ;) http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=552935
  6. This is my first ever completed Technic MOC, originally inspired by Piterx' Lancia Fulvia but much simpler. It's not quite done, but I anticipate being able to spend very little time on Lego in the next year or two, so it's as finished as it's probably going to get. There is no gearbox or interior, and there are a number of things I'd change if I had the time - but overall I'm pretty pleased with it. The 037 was the last rear wheel drive rally car to win the WRC, in 1983. It raced in the infamous Group B category, which had few restrictions on vehicle design and engine power; as a result, the overpowered cars were in a number of fatal accidents, and ultimately Group B was abolished. While it lasted, though, Group B saw some spectacular driving and some extremely fast and loud cars. The Martini Racing stripes are done with washi tape (fancy Japanese colored masking tape), which works OK except where the tape crosses pin holes. It actually looks better in person than in photos. As in the original vehicle, the hood and rear lift up, and the doors open and more or less lock in place: Also like the original, the model is mid-engined. I used 1 RC motor geared 12:20 from the fast output. Until I put the bodywork on, the car could do handbrake turns and drift on wood floors, but now that the vehicle weighs 1030g, it can't drift and can only rarely do handbrake turns. I'm especially happy with the front axle, which includes a decent wheel lock, caster, unequal length wishbones, near-Ackerman steering, and a scrub radius of nearly zero. My thanks to all of those here who offered advice on suspension - I learned an enormous amount from you all. Steering is by servo, which offers return to center, reasonable speed, and high torque. I use a basic remote because the train remote is too slow for me to keep the car from crashing; the downside to that is that proportional steering is impossible. Wheel lock, steering, and scrub radius: Caster: The hub is held together by the 4L axle with stop (and the half bush on it), which turns out to be a more robust solution than I'd expected: The rear suspension is a modification of Thirdwigg's floating differential. It works well, with one caveat. Every once in a while, the 3L axle driving the 20t gear slips towards the differential a bit, and once when this happened a 3L u-joint got destroyed by torsion. The rear suspension is hard and has limited travel, and the suspension arms are tilted up even at rest; I would fix that if I had time. And of course the obligatory under-chassis shot:
  7. Finally my first MOC-post here in this forum! Since some days we've got some snow again and that calls for some LEGO outdoor activities. As my snow-groomer is in a state that would require serious work, I decided to go on something simpler, a snow-mobile. Problem with LEGO motors is that they are a bit slow. But hey, there was the RC-Buggy in the corner! So the RC motors and the unite became the base of the snowmobile. Dry tests proved it to be quite powerful and drive the track very fast! The RC motors are mechanically coupled and interestingly I had first issue with this coupling. Putting the speedometer on them I discovered that some RC Motors have less RPM than others, but those two "flavors" of 5292 have among them pretty stable RPMs so after swapping them to two of the same, it drove perfect. So here's the first result of the outdoor capable Snowmobile. Working right now on the steering which is a bit tricky. Due to the slanted steering column the skis cut into the snow aleady, which is good. But to have it turn properly it should shift the weight a bit, i.e. lean into the turn. In real life the human on top help to perform this feat, here, something simple needs to be developed. The first tries nearly achieved this as due to a short rod, it pulld the legs up when turning too far! Here are some pictures and a video: