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Found 19 results

  1. the Inventor

    [MOC] Repairing the wall

    The wall got damaged with a previous attack on the city, now the workers are hard at work to repair the damage. -- This was build for the CCC XXI, "Medieval Maintenance" category. Repairing the wall by Ids de Jong, on Flickr C&C always welcome, and thanks for looking.
  2. Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
  3. I've been dealing with 15+ years of hideous sorting now that I have a house of my own and a dedicated space to build and organize my collection. I uncovered my old "weird pieces" box where I dumped stuff that I didn't know what to do with. Among many other oddities, this box had a couple handfuls of old 4.5V light bricks, optosensors, and touch sensors (08010dc01, x1161cx1, and x1167cx1, respectively. I received these from a family who had kept ahold of old Lego DACTA stuff from their job as an elementary school principal. Naturally, they were a little filthy and my young self dunked them into a soapy water bath without thinking. Now it's 15 years later and I'd like to test these pieces to make sure they work, repair them if they don't, and hopefully sell them on to somebody who'll appreciate them more than I will (if anyone is interested, DM me!). (No longer available, they've been passed on to a true 4.5V connoisseur.) I think I have a decent idea of what to expect if the parts are working, but what I don't know is how I can open any of them to perform repairs if necessary. (On the other hand, it may not even be economically viable to repair them given how little they go for online vs. the risk of shattering something). Does anybody know of safe methods to pop these open for the purposes of repair and inspection?
  4. Hello Eurobricks, It's been a bit since I made a post, I've been focusing on school for the past few months but now it's summer and I have time for 12v! Recently I ordered a boxed 7727 for a very good price from a trusted 12v seller in the Netherlands (link to his shop in video description), but the box was in used condition with previous glue and tape repairs, and no plastic foil in the outerbox. I bought the set because I thought I could repair the box, and I'm happy to say that I've been successful! I present to you the full restoration video about this rare box. You can repair any big 80s box with these techniques but not the 70s boxes (such as those for 7740, 7750...) since those have styrofoam. Hopefully some of you can use this on your older boxes if they're in poor condition! Never throw vintage boxes away...
  5. I was inspired by set's 75972 (Dorado Showdown) and 75953 (Hogwarts Whomping Willow) to create this small town auto repair shop with flat-bed tow truck called Smokey's Garage. The building features a raised platform for cars (such as the Anglia) to roll onto and be worked on, with folding ramps to keep the broken-down vehicle in place. NOTE: The front of the building is missing sixteen of this part in dark bluish gray above the second floor windows and the side door on the first floor. Also, two of these printed 2 x 4 tiles go on the hanging sign out front of the garage. The front of the building, with the ramps lowered for receiving a broken-down car. The rear of the building folds open to allow access to the inside. The upper floor is the break room, with a rock-n-roll album on the table, and hi-fi stereo system in place to rock around the clock..... at least during business hours! Here is the album piece. The rear of the building. This truck is basically a stretched version of the hover-vehicle in the Dorado Showdown set. It is missing two light-bluish gray ones of these (used as the back of the headlights in the set) as they don't fit where they are supposed to go in the model due to a LDD glitch. I added regular-size wheels, and safety stripes to the deck, which sadly does not lower into a ramp like a real truck would... but it does just barely fit the Anglia IRL! Here is the flatbed tow truck and the '67 Anglia in real bricks, plus the two workers Charlie "Smokey" Jones (on left) and Caroline "Carol" Jones (on right). Smokey owns the garage when this picture is taken (It's 1969 in-universe) and does the heavy diesel work and home cooking, while his wife Caroline does the gasoline engines and book keeping. They have a daughter, named Josephine Jones (nicknamed "Jo" and isn't present here) who is in training at trade-school to become a mechanic. She will shortly join the family business in 1970, and takeover from diesels when Smokey dies in 1976. Carol stays on until 1983, when she retires to work on restoring a Ford Model A as a pet project. Jo renames the business "Jo's Garage" in 1985 after moving to a new location (seen in set 10264, Corner Garage) in the downtown area when the older building became too outdated and small. She continues to run the garage today, even bringing her son Franklin into the family trade as of 1997.. NOTES: I just bought the Dorado Showdown when it was $18 (US) from Amazon and then I went and subtracted all the parts I could find for this project in my own parts bins from the BrickLink file. The truck and Anglia themselves are finished already without ordering anything, and the building is down 200+ bricks from when I started looking for parts... still need to order around 520 more. Keep your eyes peeled for real-world pictures of the vehicles, coming soon!
  6. joff-turbo-nova

    "Open heart surgery" on a 12v motor

    Last night I completed a refurbishment of a rather poorly 12v train motor. The contacts had worn giving intermittent working and the bushes were squealing like a pig so it was time to open up the case... First off made a jig to hold everything secure... I used my scalpel to cut into the case as shown on the red lines here... Then flipped the jig over and pushed down on the axles which released the two halves of the case leaving this in the jig... And the motor part in all its grotty glory.... Took the metal blocks out and started stripping down the axles and motor - +30 years of grime.... Also noticed that a wiring disc had become unsoldered - another cause of the rough running... The contacts were removed - you can see how uneven the wear has been... Got two bb53's from Bricklink specifically for their pickups... And split them open... The bb53 contacts have "nipples" on them which the motor contacts do not so these were filed flat... After that everything was cleaned with methylated spirits , the wiring plate resoldered, greased and reassembled.... Then glued and clamped.. And then after an hour taken for a test run.... I think the patient will live !!! Joff
  7. bamsham363

    [MOC] VW Repair Shop

    A new home for my VW Collection, be it old or new or rodded, enjoy
  8. Found this on YouTube. Repairing a minifig helmet with solvent (solvent welding).
  9. soccerkid6

    [M-G03] MANTIS Hangar Bay

    Location: G03 - New California Tags: Vehicle, Land Vehicle Job: Driver Start Log: Always great to have the backing of a well equipped maintenance team. After my last mission I returned to base, and while I awaited a new assignment, my speeder was given a thorough going over by the mechanics. Several other speeders were also being docked in the maintenance bay. (This speeder was previously used in my Desert Patrol build) See more pictures here: brickbuilt.
  10. Hello! Going through my parent's attic over xmas I rediscovered my old 12v train set, which I'm now trying to restore and get working again. After cleaning up a bunch of contacts with WD40 the actual train and power brick work, which is nice. However the remote control for the signals seems to be completely jammed and neither button will actually move. Has anyone successfully repaired one of these? I can't even see how to take it apart without breaking it. Thanks
  11. First, I'm not sure if this is the correct forum for this topic, but I think that someone from the Lego group should see this. I understand that Legoland parks are not managed by Lego any more, however since they represent the Lego brand there should at least be some oversight on how this is done. Here is my family's experience with Legoland California: - First visit was in summer of 2008 - it was great, everything that my then 4 year old daughter, my wife and I expected and more! Specifically to Miniland, all exhibits were working, trains were going back and forth (the one around the farm, two monorails in Las Vegas and I think one more), some of the cars were going around the roads in various cities, but some were already broken, as you could clearly see thread marks on the road where they used to go. Being that this was 8-9 years after opening, you could see some of weathering on the buildings and exhibits, which is expected, I suppose. - Second visit was in September/October 2014 - great experience, especially on the first day (Thursday) - no lines on almost any of the rides, we felt like we had the park for ourselves! Then the weekend came and things started getting crowded... but I digress: Miniland - now this is almost 15 years since the opening and 6 years since our last visit, and it looks like nothing was done in the meantime. None of the trains worked, to the disappointment of my 2-year old son who simply adores trains. There was 1 car moving in New York City model, another one in Washington DC, and that was it. There were some boats that were moving, but most were not, since the cables to which they are attached have fallen off the pulleys. You could see some additions, like a brand new firetruck in otherwise weathered New Orleans, and San Francisco display slowly taking shape, but otherwise everything else was just 6 years older and not very well cared about in my opinion. - Third visit was in December 2014 (yes, we bought three memberships for $200 a pop for the three of us, since our son is still younger than 3yr), we actually just came back home tonight and I had to write this and post it - it was crazy, I have never seen so many people in Legoland, which on one hand is good for the revenue but it's terrible if you happen to be there on those days, the lines were 60-90 minutes long on most of the rides. So instead of waiting in line, we went to Miniland. On the bright side, San Francisco model was completed, and it looks great! Unfortunately the street cars are not moving, even though there are rails for them. Also, some of the boats were repaired, as someone finally put the cable back on the pulley. The rest of the Miniland was in a really sad state: there were one or two cars moving in one of the exhibits, no trains were moving (even though the train around the farm exhibit was replaced with a "Christmas train", no one bothered to fix the engine I guess), no cars in Manhattan were moving, the lacquer cover on the MGM hotel in Las Vegas model was peeling off from the side and flailing in the breeze like a tatter from a ghost ship mast, the Santa with reindeer model was sadly sagging from one of the New York skyscrapers, unlike the witches that were spinning around during our previous visit and that everyone was pointing at. A section of the roof of the Sydney Opera caved in. All in all, it was fairly disappointing experience. So there you have it. We are planning to go again sometimes in March (we live ~350 miles away in Phoenix), and I hope that at least some of the things we saw will be repaired. After all, the sign at the entry to the Miniland says that it's the "Heart of Legoland" so I think that it should be kept in a better shape than it is now. You can go to so many other amusement parks for a ride on a roller coaster, to a water park or aquarium, but the Miniland is what should be a really unique experience that sets Legoland apart from so many other amusement parks in southern California, or for that matter Worldwide!
  12. Following my recent MOW/Perway equipment back in June, here are a few more finished vehicles for the track maintance fleet. Previous models Semi trailer crane: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=96053 Bridge Inspection Vehicle: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=96460 Rail bound machines: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=96241 MOW Lineup by coghilla, on Flickr -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First Up is the SRS LRB17 Overhead line vehicle. It features the same double swivel rear rail bogie to enable easy access to the track from a crossiing or similar. It also has storage boxes on each side which cane increased if required. SRS Road Rail LRB-17 Overhead Line Vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr SRS Road Rail LRB-17 Overhead Line Vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr Full set: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Next is another SRS product. The RB25. It is designed as a module carrier and can undertake many different jobs. It has a 20' pod plus a smaller 8' pod placement points. So far i haven't created the 8' tool sore or the removable knuckleboom crane. SRS RB25 Module Vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr SRS RB25 Module Vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr Full set: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Next is a demountable swap body vehicle. It has a knuckleboom crane and the hook lift device attached. Unfortunately it isn't from SRS so it misses out on the rear swivel rail boggie. Here it can be seen with the large work platform & the Swap body maintenance vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr Swap body maintenance vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr Swap body maintenance vehicle by coghilla, on Flickr Full set: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Lastly is the Brandt power unit. The LDD file was posted here a while ago. I shortened it a bit for my purposes. Brandt Power Unit by coghilla, on Flickr Full set: the two module vehicles can share the same pods/modules. Modules by coghilla, on Flickr here you can see them all together: Brick Events Ipswich 14 by coghilla, on Flickr enjoy,
  13. I found that LEGO is very useful thing for life situations :classic:
  14. Dread Pirate Rob

    Repair of broken 12v (4.5v) couplers

    As there is a thread on repairing 12v motors and one on couplers, I thought the old timers here might be interested in my technique for repairing 12v couplers. I'm sure this must have been tried before but I couldn't find any previous threads. I turned the drill bits with my fingers but a quality drill should do even better. I worked my way up to the correct diameter through three different bits to avoid stressing the plastic, then shaved off the resulting lip with a sharp knife. (Mandated Government Warning: Lego was harmed in the making of this post (but it was only technic) Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr
  15. I based this model off of set 60009, (Helicopter Arrest) with the tools from set 10027, (Train Engine Shed) and the canopy specifically designed after the Roberts Shed at the Museum of Transportation in St. Louis, Missouri. This model is modular with the office connected to the shed via two Technic pins, and the roof and second floor connected to each other and the first floor by only a few studs. The 2-8-2 "Mikado" usually sits on the far track (near the rear of the office), while the 2-6-0 "Mogul" just barely fits on the near track. (near the rolling garage door) The building with the garage is the offices for the entire repair shop. Below the offices is where small parts are stored until the repaired engine is ready to go to it's home shed. The ground (or first) floor contains a lathe, drill press, and a vise to help maintain any engine that rolls into the workshop. This floor also features a garage which can house a small automobile of about 16 studs or less in length. The second floor contains a desk with chair, couch, & filing cabinets containing repair records. The office also contains a wood burning fireplace and a small deck by the stairs and over the garage. This picture here shows the inspection area, where mini figures scramble all over the engines to check for leaks, oil joints, and do last minute touch-ups to the paint. Here are the locomotives that go with this shed: 2-8-2 Mikado This engine is made up of four different models. This includes ScotNick1's 2-10-0 9F European steam engine, which was shortened to a 2-8-0. The second model is set 10194 Emerald Night, from which the rear truck was taken. The third model is Anthony Sava's Pacific 4-6-2 model and that comprises the inspiration for the tender. The boiler was inspired by the one in set 79111 Constitution Train Chase. Together, these different engines from four different eras and four separate builders come together to create this one steam engine. This model is actually a serious MOD of the Constitution Train Chase (set 79111) with Zephyr1934-designed piston design and Anthony Sava-inspired tender from his 4-6-2 "Pacific" with stripes from his 4-6-0 "Ten Wheeler". LDD file for the complete facility (minus steam engines): http://www.mocpages....1429721454m.lxf LDD file for the 2-8-2 "Mikado": http://www.mocpages....1429143369m.lxf LDD file for the 2-6-0 "Mogul": http://www.mocpages....1429819897m.lxf This is the completed facility and locomotives. Comment, questions, suggestions and complaints welcome! EDIT: added the Mogul's LDD file.
  16. Hi All, I managed to get a used 7898 set, working just fine, but the power button on the engine does not seem to work, so I have to take out the batteries in order to power down the train, or the batteries drain over a day or so. Any recommendation or pointers if it's possible to repair it? I assume that it's supposed to turn off the power when pressed? Thanks..
  17. Ever thought that the price for the 'stop' rails was a little too high? I did, so I thought to modify a stock straight rail. As you can see from the picture below, I have made a good approximation in my first attempt. I used a Mk I rail, but you can see in the picture on the left there is a Mk II rail. Belatedly I found that these come with two plug contact points, so making them easier to convert:-)! Differences to note: The square plastic piece that sits in between the break in the rail. And the extra plastic directly underneath the plug socket to accommodate the hole. The rail was cut using a dremel, and the plug contact was formed by making small cuts and then folding with pliers. The hole was drilled with my dremel mounted horizontally on a piece of board in lathe like fashion. A piece of plastic was temporarily MEK'd to the top to minimize burring. The plastic pieces were measured and cut from a doner piece of track, and then welded in place with MEK mixed with a small amount of plastic shaving from the cutting. The end result is not bad. Next time I will seek out the Mk II's with plug holes, as these already have the two plug contacts formed! You could use this technique to replace your original stop rails that have gone rusty. Take care not to mix Mk I and Mk II rails as they are slightly different, the male connecting pin on a Mk II has plastic reinforcement. see pictures above. And make sure you use the plug holed variety, ogeL did make rails without connection points!
  18. niteangel

    MOC - Orca Rescue Plane & Carrier

    While some people build their brick cities with more and more cars and planes, I always want mine to be more than that. It should evolve with new technology. I bought the set 7686 for some parts, but what was left was for something more intriguing. I always have the idea to make a more futuristic plane. C'mon, with Tony Stark in my city, I guess the city can benefit from his technology! Haha, so I recreated the "chopper", and embrace the future with a new design! I did some sketches first, all based on the plane Orca in C&C computer game. So the team reassembled! The orange rescue and repair team now includes the standard flatbed truck 60017, and on the right it is my another MOC Wheel-lift Wrecker, and this time we are to see the middle truck, the Orca Carrier and its plane! I imagine that this technology is just new, and in later years when the world war breaks out again in the C&C era (like 2050-21XX I guess), the Orca is transformed to an attack fighter. Anyway, that means this little plane is a precedent to the Orca fighter! The truck, while carrying the plane and transporting it, also provides tools and supply for maintaining the plane. Hey man, time for a little flight test! Two full throttle engines make this plane fly better than a chopper, probably! Overview of the plane... The can also see the engines now move to horizontal position, which is a flying mode. There is a landing gear at the tail that can be folded up. The two floodlights are perfect for search and rescue work! The truck also has an outdoor-use radar and computer system, that helps the pilot to locate himself on the plane during rescue missions. Did you see the little + hole in the middle of the plane? That is where the "tool clips" are installed for different missions. I will show you more later here how that works!
  19. Andromeda

    TUTORIAL Repairing 12v points.

    Anyone been setting up a track and found that they had two left feet? I did the other day, and managed to break my 30 year old points! Lots of swearing ensued, but not all is lost... The candidates for this topic are my very first set of points(left), and a set that I aquired from 3bay: In addition to the break, the left set have a poor pass through electrical connection. First off we need to flip the points over and locate the six plastic rivets. For half of them I just cropped the top off with a pair of wire cutters, The remaining rivets were 'teased' back into a pillar shape using the wire cutters and a pair of pliers - small electrical ones! On the first picture above, there is what looks like a 7th rivet that perhaps was made too short, larger circled item. It has been chemically welded. Once the first six are free, slip a small screw driver in between where the 7th joins, and gently prise it open. You should hear a snap! Hear are some pictures of what you get. For the feint hearted, and those of you who donot have electrical connection issues, the next part can be skipped. All of the ends of my conductor rails had become unwelded from the end braces. If you are feint hearted and do have electrical connection issues, the following two pics try and show you where the contacts are. Because my points were so old and abused, I continued to prise the central join with a screwdriver like soldering tool. The point is composite, and has been chemically welded during manufacture. Here you can see the weld breaking. How did this get here? Well now it is, I might as well explain that the melted plastic between the rails was caused by a very bored and destructive 8 year old, exploding button cells! Here it is, looks remarkably like the 4.5V version! Clever ogeL using the same parts! These are the broken welds that I mentioned earlier. You can see the welded middle point. The weld is strong enough to hold while the plastic tears I checked the continuity and resistance of the conductor rails. One bad connection racked up 15 ohms, whilst most were less than 1 or 2ohms in the picture pairs 1 and 2 are visible without these last few steps, pair 3 can just be accessed with a screwdriver, without total disassembly. My trouble was mainly with pair 2, as you can see in the pic they have a little arcing evidence. A small pair of pliers were used to press each metal tab, whilst being pushed/supported from the rail side. Now to weld the broken base plate. You will need some Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), a chemical proof crucible/dish and stirrer/applicator, and maybe some broken donor ogeL element of the same colour. I chose to dissolve a very small amount of plastic shavings. Because the break was very clean, I did not really need to additional material. Add a few drops of MEK and mix with your shavings to your desired consitancy, here it is weak and thin. Apply sparingly but evenly to the edge of the element to be welded, wait a few seconds then press together. Sometimes applying to both edges. It's best use a flat surface to work on, one prepared with non stick properties, like a strip of kapton tape! In this example I trimmed the excess too soon, the excess smeared a little. Once it is bonded sufficiently to handle, place on a radiator or somewhere warm to set fully. Now we are ready to reassemble the points. Get your welding kit together and the parts lined up. We don't need any extra plastic material this time, just a few drops of pure MEK in the crucible. First off we're going to weld the rails in place. Apply MEK as shown and press together, leaving to dry in a warm place again. Next assemble the base plate and slider. Remember that half rivet that we snapped earlier? Put a spot of MEK on it before lowering the rails onto the base. Try not to push it fully together yet. Flip the whole unit over and if you have snipped the rivets, place a spot of MEK in each hole, as you've not pushed it fully together right? If you 'teased' the rivets straight, then press together and put a spot of MEK on each, using the end of the pliers press and work the rivet flat. For my snipped rivets, I kept the heads and welded them ontop. The red circles show the snipped rivets, blue the formed ones. Both methods work. That's it, you've just saved yourself a small fortune! I'll come back and post about the the RH points later...