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Found 265 results

  1. OK, so recently the 5 millionth topic was opened about storage. Let's keep it all to one sub-forum and one topic. How do you sort your LEGO? How do you store your LEGO? Discuss...
  2. I am building a new car, in style of musclecar from 60's: long and quadrat. I want that car to be agressive and brutal. There are some variants of the front grille and lights, but cant make best decision. Please help me to choose the best. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Or may be quadrat lights (right side)? If it is possible, someone make a POLL here. I dont have such rights yet... Thank you.
  3. TheHarrower

    Custom Venator MOC

    Aloha! Im new here. The end. Just kidding. If you're willing, I'm in need of some help. So I'm attempting to build a custom made Venator Star Destroyer using 2x4 wedge plates instead of 2x3 wedge plates. Ive built part of the frame, however, I noticed when the plates are aligned with the central beam, the frame and plates do not align perfectly on the sides. They are off by a few millimeters, probably 1° or less. Is there a method, pattern or dimensions that would create a more accurate alignment between the 2x4 wedge plate and the frame that I have? Or would it be wise to scrap this and go with 2x3 plates instead? Note: the plates will have a slope when its near completion. p.s. eurobricks wouldnt allow me to submit a photo bigger than 102.4 KB. so i cant show the frame that ive built. Link to show the bow of the frame.
  4. Bielanskiii

    Help identifying model!

    Sorry for the bad quality, theres a limit on the size of the images. This is part of a train I found looking through old lego, and I can't find what the set it is from called, I'd like to try and put it all back together like it was. Hopefully someone on here will recognise it and can help me!
  5. There seems to be a flood of "What should I buy" type topics lately. The problem with these topics is that if everyone made one over ever purchase the forum would become unreadable. Thus to solve this problem this topic has been created to be the new home for all such questions. Do note though that there there's a topic about this already but since a lot of you Technic guys seem to not want to hang out with the System guys I'll make a similar topic here, but please do realise that EB is one site, not a collection of many small ones. I'm making an exception here, not a rule... Ask away!
  6. Hi, i'm in the process of making a new MOC. It will be a mini assault on Hoth MOC, BUT with a kinetic walking AT-AT as centre-piece. I have parts to somewhat test the walking mechanism, but I don't have enough parts to build the whole MOC, so I can't acquire good footage and test it properly. I'm asking for someone with quite an impressive lego parts collection to build my moc, test it and take some photos and most importantly a video of it. Together we can improve it and eventually put it up on Rebrickable. Any other suggestions and/or improvements are ofcourse welcome as well. I will add a render of the current state of the MOC, just so you have an idea of the finished MOC. Thanks.
  7. Hi Everyone, This is my first post on here but I have been following some of the amazing minifig scale Star Wars MOCs' on here. I have been fascinated with them and decided to give them a bash. So far the rebel fleet includes UCS Slave 1, UCS Falcon (2017), Most recent A-Wing, I have made Intherts' X-Wing, U-Wing, as well as created a Y-wing using his cockpit and reverse engineered the main body of the ship form images. SO, to add to the fleet the Rebel scum have stolen the plans for a Lambda Shuttle.(I) They have gotten pretty far with the rebuild/reverse engineering of the design from the images on Marshal Bananas' Flickr but I have gotten stuck with the landing gear and how to connect the cockpit at those angles! I have started ordering parts for the real build. I'm about 50% delivered and will be starting on the cockpit first to try work it out in actual bricks. Would welcome your comments as well as any advice you guys may have about the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/150280550@N02/ MB Lambda Shuttle by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr MB Lambda Shuttle #1 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture4 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture5 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture6 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture3 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture1 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Thanks! Hamish
  8. Hi all, i have a few photos to upload, where is the best place to do that brickshelf? then link t to the post? Lukemax
  9. Hi Everyone Totally new member and first ever post so sorry if I haven't got the etiquette right. I've done quite a lot of big lego sets but I've never had a problem before and googling makes it seem like I'm the only person to have this problem and I don't know what to try next. I am step 200 of 752752 - where you attach the first big plate to the skeleton. No matter what I do it just falls apart (see picture) - not dramatically or anything but every time one of the blue, red or black cross pieces comes off, when i try to reattach it, another one comes away and so until i want to throw it against a wall! I don't think anything is bowed or anything - and in any case it doesn't happen to the same piece each time. I have compared it to the picture and I'm pretty sure it's accurate...I've even tried small piece of blutack to hold pieces in place (I really don't want to glue) and I just don't know what to do. Any advice please? Thanks in advance!
  10. Hello guys , I desperately need a stud.io expert's help : I am doing builds for Star Wars factions using LDD and stud.io and I've stumbled upon some roadblocks in my use of Stud.io. Namely : 1) I cannot find any way to make parts that are supposed to be dual-molded be two different colors. For example I want a minifig's legs to be tan in their upper area , with dark bluish grey as the "boots"/lower part. Another example is a doctor who sonic screwdriver - I want the "body" to be pearl grey but the "light bulb" on top to be a trans green or trans blue . Is there any way , direct or indirect , to achieve that ? 2) What I also looked for , but could not find , was a way to use my own custom decals on , say a minifig torso . Is there any way of accessing the decoration/decal database of the programm and adding my own / replacing an existing one with my own ? If this has been answered / covered elsewhere , feel free to lock / delete the topic and point me to the right direction. Thanks in advance to anyone kind enough to help.
  11. Hello everyone, I was looking over the forum whether same question has been already posted somewhere, but couldn't find it, so I hope I am not doubling the topic: Q1: Is there a possibility to extend or shorten the technic linear actuators (92693c01, 61927c01 and 40918c01) in stud.io? Are there at least parts made of those in shortest and longest state and where can they be found? Q2: Is there a tool or a trick to align two i.e. liftarms, each with its own fixed pivot point to a position where those two cross (like two circles crossing each other) - is it possible to find that exact crossing in stud.io? I am putting most of my hopes into @efferman, @Zerobricks and @M_longer as I've seen quite a lot of great digital stuff coming from them. I would really appreciate any help from any other who might know something about it as well. I thank you in advance, Best regards, Miha
  12. Hi, yesterday I reinstalled windows (Windows 10 like before) and all the apps, LDD included, version 4.3.11, brick version 2670 ( I dont want the last version of the official LEGO page because is a broken piece of shit with the half of the pieces, thanks TLG). Well, the issue with the Adobe in the installation was solved but today I have opened a file and try to change a colour and... there is only red in the palette LOL. Kinda weird because I used this version until two days ago...even in my laptop I have it as well and I see the complete palette. Can someone helps me please?? I work with LDD and Stud.io makes me angry ( I need the double of time to make the same build, the mechanics are VERY CLUNKY) Screenshot-> https://imgur.com/a/oZjxCJa
  13. Hello, FIRST post here so I hope my question is OK for the forum. I purchased the 75252 ISD for my son to build (yes, I'm helping). We have gotten to Bag #7, and have built the (see picture) the 2 sort of big triangular pieces that go BEHIND the engines and block people from seeing inside the ship. I've drawn a red line indicating the cross beam that extends and helps to connect the 2 pieces to the build. We installed the lower, or bottom triangle with very little issue, BUT we noticed the "cross beam support" is flexed a bit (we figured it was part of the build. BUT when we try to put the top shield (honestly I don't know what to call it, but these shields create the back panel of the ship when installed)....the top shield/panel has an issue(s) when we try to connect it. The 'flex' in the cross beam support seems to be just a small fraction off. Last night, after fiddling with it, I was able to get it connected but felt it wasn't exactly right. When we got up this morning, 2 of the 4 black connectors had come apart. I hope I am making sense here. BTW, if you watch this video from the Lego builder and scrub to approximately 3:30 you see him connect the 2 pieces I'm talking about (but you can't see the cross beam because of the angle). ALSO, he connects it all as 1 piece...not 2, which is DIFFERENT from the instructions. SO...I am very sorry for the long post, but: 1) have you built this?? 2) IF SO, did you run into the same issue?? 3) Any solution if you did?? THANKS SO MUCH in advance!! I have a VERY worried 14-year-old....HECK, I'm worried that I won't know how to fix it for him!! AGAIN, thanks. Kevin
  14. Long story short. One of my kids is now 4 years old and we have started to build some new Lego sets together. I have all my Lego saved from my own childhood, and I got a sudden urge to try and find and build some of the sets. Unfortunately they are all mixed in plastic bags. I hope to find help identifying some sets, and then use brickinstructions.com or other resource to piece them together. Link to images below, thanks in advance.
  15. In my car MOC, I braced both sides of most of the driven axles so when moving the axles won't wiggle out of the beams from the torque. In the example pictures below, I was wondering if the first picture, with the brown 3L with stop is good enough for use, or if I should always place a beam in front of it to prevent the 3L from pulling itself out (as shown in the second picture). Do I need to always prevent axles from pulling themselves out or is it fine without doing so? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  16. Hi all. I've designed the 2002 movie The Time Machine in a Technic build and submitted to Lego Ideas. If you like it, would appreciate your support in helping it become a real Lego set. Direct link to Lego Ideas page Lots more photos and details on the ideas site. It also works! (not the time travel)
  17. StudWorks

    DNR Shifter Issue

    I had a lot of problems with my MOC work-in-progress and I am hoping this will be the last of them. I am using the Porsche 911 GT3RS’ DNR shifter but the 12t gears here aren’t strong enough, making them skip and bend their teeth. I would appreciate if someone could show me a sturdier way or an example of a drive + reverse gearbox design, as compact as possible, with no gear skipping. Thank you.
  18. my setup (imgur) I just made an RC lego tank using lego technic, but when driving it's slightly turning to one side, everything is aligned properly and the center mass is correct, Could it be because one of the motors needs poles reversed to make the tank drive forwards? please help.
  19. Recently while testing for gear skipping in my EV3-powered torque heavy MOC sports car, I found this... The 5L (I believe) axle holding the half-gear I'm pointing at, which is clearly visible from the issue, moves out of the half-gear every time it skips. Indeed the axles with axle connectors connected to this gear have a "sliding axle" issue. I made a light fix by adding another axle connector, but I don't know if it will stop the sliding. Here above is the axle being pushed in... and pushed out to its maximum. Above is the issue: This piece my right finger is pointing at is in where my left points at, and it seems to wiggle enough to be the main cause of the sliding. However, I can't fix it because there is no place to reinforce the small piece. It seems from the pictures above with the axle sliding in and out that it will keep the half gear in place, but I don't know if it would under torque. Here's what happened to the last gear I had in here... completely chewed out by the axle. Have anybody else dealt with this? Some helpful feedback on this issue would be appreciated. Happy building.
  20. Hi. I'm a Lego Technic MOC builder but when I got into Lego years ago I have got a lot of sets and made some... interesting MOCs. I'm considering to change up my display setup to make it look better, and I thought asking for advice and suggestions would be a great idea. Here's the collection as of now: The left shelf has my MOCs and the right shelf has sets and space MOCs. (The posters above are going to be removed) Left Shelf On the top of the left shelf are cars I made over 3 years ago. They're not pretty, and I probably won't be taking them apart for new builds since I'm giving my full time to Technic. On the middle of the shelf is some custom Bionicle figures I made as part of a weird story I made on the now defunct Lego.com gallery. On the bottom of the shelf is a... quirky house with a living room, kitchen, closet, bathroom, and bedroom that I made probably four years ago, broke, and rebuilt. It serves no use and its use as a display piece is kind of worthless, but it's one of the biggest things I built at the time. The playground on the middle shelf used to be connected to the right of the house. It hurts to remember having it on my dresser not playing with it because the house wasn't pretty. I should rebuild the house into something new but I'm keeping it as a memory and since all the pieces are a different color and I have no idea what to build. MineCraft Display A ton of MineCraft sets I got to connect to each other and make a cool display. Unfortunately I ignore it often and never got to my plans to put a MineCraft wallpaper up to make it look like a set box, but I'd like to. Right Shelf Just built sets and space MOCs I made forever ago. Top Shelf I expanded the shelf above by placing two poster frames and holding them up with a bar mounted in the wall, making it easy for removal and since I don't want to use a permanent structure. I like it but it's impossible to see items placed all the way back, so I don't know if I want to keep it or not. Here's the bar it was on... And here's the shelf I put the boards on top of. A lot of the items on the shelves are builds I don't have as much interest in as the large Creator cars I want to display here so I'm open for ideas. If this was your space to display your Lego collection, what would you do? How would you display creations you like and the ones that are not as interesting?
  21. Hi. I was working on my car MOC (with a four-speed gearbox designed by Sariel) and had some unfortunate events happen. As stated in the title, the differential is somehow making the gear ratio higher than I need it. The gear moving the diff is moving at the same speed as the power input, but the wheel hub moves one rotation for every 3/4 rotation that I move the input shaft. Is this differential piece supposed to do this? I want the wheels to move at the same speed as the motor at 4th gear, which brings me to my next problem. I hear rapid-fire clicking noises every time my car is in 3rd and 4th gear. This happened to my other MOCs too, but I was able to solve it. Since the car is to be powered by two EV3 large motors, I actually believe there might be a clutch mechanism in the motors such as in the Technic linear actuators that also make a terrible clicking sound when they move all the way up or down. Whatever it is, I'm open to responses and hope the Eurobricks community could provide an explanation and solution about both of these issues. Here's some pictures, the orange and red pieces in the first pic were for testing the rotations. ' Thank you for your time.
  22. I need help with a small section of a MOC. I've created a rock wall out of a bunch of 2449 1x3x2 inverted slope bricks - I stack four of the bricks on top of each other, there are 18 columns of bricks, and each column is raised two plates higher than the last one. However, each slope brick is only attached by one stud, which is a very weak connection, and ultimately they will need to help support a large rectangular roof that will sit over the entire chamber. Any idea how I can connect all of the slope bricks together to form a strong, solid wall?
  23. I was working on my MOC and I found there was a lot of gear skipping. The skipping comes from this, a small gear with bracing on only one side. The finger on the left points to what pieces the right points at. If I remove the bush that the right is pointing at, there is no other piece to put there, because it will rub against a 24t gear. I also can't make the axle longer because right in front of the bush is a 4L with stop with a different gear ratio. I can't find a solution in how to support this axle and I would appreciate some help, thank you.
  24. This is a 1:8.3 scale Technic MOC car I am making powered by EV3. Things have been going well until I ran into some space issues with some Large Motors. I wanted them to be vertical, but they were too big, so I'm trying ways to get more space so the motors won't be very visible when I build the exterior. In the right picture, I positioned the motors at an angle to save space, however it may make the rear too long. The maximum room I have (according to blueprints) for the motors is 2.5 inches away from the rear wheels, so I need to save a lot of space or I have to expand the rear. All in all, I have to position the motors where they are not too high or not too far from the rear wheels. I'd thought I post this issue I have because I wonder if there is any other better way to do this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.
  25. Just building my MOC and I found out pieces I thought were in great condition are forming cracks already. 1. I thought only grey pieces were prone to these types of cracks, I was wrong. 2. Lots and lots of broken grey pieces. Almost every piece I have like this now has a crack. 3. Here's the same pieces but showing the cracks on the other side. 4. U-joints are just so easy to break. 5. I even broke one of these. 6. To test the durability of this piece (which some I have are in the earliest phase of cracking) I put an axle halfway through, put pressure on it, and the piece's "axle inserter" snapped. Trying to stay positive, but this is really holding back my builds. Wish I could find some way to prevent this from easily happening or if the cracking is a defect with the part. Is anybody else experiencing cracking with pieces where you put in axle? Would like some feedback from the community, thank you.