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Found 271 results

  1. OK, so recently the 5 millionth topic was opened about storage. Let's keep it all to one sub-forum and one topic. How do you sort your LEGO? How do you store your LEGO? Discuss...
  2. Hello, FIRST post here so I hope my question is OK for the forum. I purchased the 75252 ISD for my son to build (yes, I'm helping). We have gotten to Bag #7, and have built the (see picture) the 2 sort of big triangular pieces that go BEHIND the engines and block people from seeing inside the ship. I've drawn a red line indicating the cross beam that extends and helps to connect the 2 pieces to the build. We installed the lower, or bottom triangle with very little issue, BUT we noticed the "cross beam support" is flexed a bit (we figured it was part of the build. BUT when we try to put the top shield (honestly I don't know what to call it, but these shields create the back panel of the ship when installed)....the top shield/panel has an issue(s) when we try to connect it. The 'flex' in the cross beam support seems to be just a small fraction off. Last night, after fiddling with it, I was able to get it connected but felt it wasn't exactly right. When we got up this morning, 2 of the 4 black connectors had come apart. I hope I am making sense here. BTW, if you watch this video from the Lego builder and scrub to approximately 3:30 you see him connect the 2 pieces I'm talking about (but you can't see the cross beam because of the angle). ALSO, he connects it all as 1 piece...not 2, which is DIFFERENT from the instructions. SO...I am very sorry for the long post, but: 1) have you built this?? 2) IF SO, did you run into the same issue?? 3) Any solution if you did?? THANKS SO MUCH in advance!! I have a VERY worried 14-year-old....HECK, I'm worried that I won't know how to fix it for him!! AGAIN, thanks. Kevin
  3. Hi everyone, I've finished trying to RC my 42043 and it seems that the PF L motor has issues providing sufficient power to drive the set? I obtained instructions from the creator of this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpP_05uxKqs&t=22s&ab_channel=PawełWojnarowski) and also checked PPUNG DADDY's 42043 RC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8easq7ueIo&ab_channel=PPUNGDADDY(뿡대디)-LEGOTECHNICRC), both used an L motor with no problems. Here's a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/J8P13WLPzN8. As you can see in the video, the motor loses power after driving for some time, eventually being unable to drive at all. The problem is worsened when I try to drive and steer at the same time, it's almost impossible to drive and turn. I have tried swapping the tyres around, changing batteries, trying a V1 and V2 IR receiver, switching positions of the motor and servo cables, and using a new L motor. But the problem still persists. Here's a photo of the L motor: Could it be because of excess friction introduced in the rear axles during construction? Because I noticed when I lifted up the rear axles, the motor spins the wheels at its standard rpm, BUT only 1 wheel on each axle spins, the other is stationary. Then when the wheels contact the floor, the motor suddenly seems to struggle with driving the thing. Hence I was thinking could it be that I built the differential too "tightly"? Appreciate any help from the technic experts in this forum, thanks in advance!
  4. There seems to be a flood of "What should I buy" type topics lately. The problem with these topics is that if everyone made one over ever purchase the forum would become unreadable. Thus to solve this problem this topic has been created to be the new home for all such questions. Do note though that there there's a topic about this already but since a lot of you Technic guys seem to not want to hang out with the System guys I'll make a similar topic here, but please do realise that EB is one site, not a collection of many small ones. I'm making an exception here, not a rule... Ask away!
  5. Hello guys, Im new on the forum. I have a problem wich is very annoing, it is my recently purchased buggy motor. I have built a rally car and when i bought the motor, i only needed to click it in to place. Now, the problem is that if i drive (drift actually) the overload protection comes in and brakes the party. Wat i am using is this: 1. 8878 Li-Po Battery box 2. V2 Receiver 3. On the blue one, M Motor for steering, just like rm8's Black Mamba GT 4. On the red one, 8886 extension wire 5. From the extension wire to the Buggy Motor 5292 I have trouble uploading pics but i will try to figure out.
  6. LegoElvesFanatic

    Elvendale

    Hi, my name is Josephine. I am creating Elevendale with all my Elves sets (I own them all) I would love to post images and you give me feedback and advice! Thanks. My family and I are moving house so my Lego is getting packed away . Over the next few weeks I am going to be buying pieces and sketching out designs for Elvendale. If you have any pieces that have helped you let me know what ones they are and I should be posting a base sketch in a few days
  7. Hello! I've been playing around in stud.io and part designer making some custom figs, and I really want to get them into blender so I can animate them. Exporting to Ldraw and mechabricks doesn't work, the only things that stay are official parts. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
  8. Hi everyone, I have wanted to make an off-road truck for soo long and I just have enough time to build and design one. But I desperately need some expert opinions on how to design the front cabin for this vehicle. Does anyone have any ideas or designs you would like to share? ps I am looking for a design kinda like this:
  9. Two Questions: Would you consider this a proper building technique for MOC building? Would LEGO consider this a legal building technique? My Thoughts: I am personally hesitant to use this in a build as it feels wrong to have the small sprong sticking out of the bottom. Also because it's so thin there are strain concerns. However connectivity-wise, the stud hubs are the full .6 stud size and not chopped at the corners like almost all 2x2 circular plates' studs (4032, 2654, even 2655) which allows connecting at all four corners (as shown above). It's dimension make it unique. Excluding the middle sprong which runs .25 studs long with a width of .4, it provides a flat .1 stud thick platform with connecting studs on top. Also it has a .8 stud diameter with potential for positioning a connected piece .4 studs onto a flat surface. There is the argument that 3679 and 3680 are meant as one piece and shouldn't be used independently. In most sets today though they are packaged individually and connected later. I don't have an issue with using 3680 independently as it feels about as strong as a normal tile piece. However, 3679 just feels so flimsy when you hold it (though it is quite strong for it's thickness) plus it wasn't designed initially to function as an inverted connector. Conclusion: I'm still hesitant to, but because of the unique uses it proposes I'm leaning towards using 3679 in my building but mostly just for small bearing decoration uses. Since 3679 and 3680 are sold disconnected one could argue LEGO would be okay with the above use, but I would still guess they would say it is illegal. I'd be interested in hearing if anyone knows of a official LEGO set where either 3679 or 3680 are used independently without the other present.
  10. AMX turret.lxf I've been working on a model of an AMX 13 105 light tank, and decided to take a break from the hull to work on the turret. The attached file is my LDD progress, because for some reason i prefer working digitally before I start putting stuff together. My first problem is that this turret works by elevating the entire gun carriage, including the autoloader box at the back. My second problem is that this is a small turret. 5x7, so I can't put a motor in there. To help with this, I have a gear in the center that pushes the entire carriage up and down against the side mounts. Now I need to figure out how to put the side mounts on a turntable, so that they can turn. My third problem is that mock mounted on a turn table, I can't find a way to turn the gear to move the turret. Any ideas? Blueprints I'm using: http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints-depot/tanks/tanks-a/amx-13-105mm-1.png,
  11. Recently upgraded to Windows 10 and re-installed LDD. After resolving an unrelated error having to do with my graphics card, I succeeded in booting up the program and opened one of my old build files to discover that an incredibly large number of bricks (mostly ones with moving parts) were refusing to load. Additionally, three of the brick categories in the sidebar were displaying with a bugged icon and a handful more, including hats, heads, and handheld props, were missing entirely. Finally, numerous bricks from these and other categories has been randomly redistributed to incorrect categories, as seen in the minifig parts catagory here. I haven't yet determined whether all of the parts from the missing categories are still present. What's going on, and how do I fix it? I've already tried all the solutions in this thread, in the belief that it was about the same issue I'm experiencing, but in retrospect it's very likely that it isn't.
  12. Hi all, i have a few photos to upload, where is the best place to do that brickshelf? then link t to the post? Lukemax
  13. So you think you'd like to dive into the world of the Brick Seas, however there is so much to read and so many rules that you are not even sure where to start! Fear not, it's actually quite easy to get started and the community here is really friendly and will help you along each step of the way! Never be afraid to ask questions in the introduction thread or any of the faction threads (linked below). For now let's look at exactly what you need to do to sign up and get started in one post! Step One: Choosing a Faction The first step is also one of the most important - choosing the faction that your character will pledge allegiance to. While you are never limited to only building scenes within your faction's territory (in fact many challenges may require you to build in other factions), faction choice will impact your role in BoBS. There are many things to consider, what style suits your current Lego collection, what interests you, which part of the game you wish to focus on etc. etc. Even the number of currently active players in each faction may influence your choice. The most important thing however, is to choose a faction that you are going to enjoy and be motivated to build for! There are four playable factions in the game, let's have a brief look at each one to assist in your choice. Corrington Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Guard (Red Coats) Primary real world influences: Great Britain, Renaissance Sweden and enlightenment era Denmark-Norway The Basics: Science and the enlightenment are main national characteristics for Corrington, and their main source of income is from their strong merchant fleet. A strong navy is required to protect their maritime mercantile interests and this tends to be their military focus. Corlander's strive to bring order and structure to the world. Typical Quote: "That flower is beautiful. We must conserve it and bring it to the national museum." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a beautiful flower - join Corrington. Read more: Corrington thread Eslandola Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Armada Primary real world influences: Spain, Portugal and the Netherlands. Also some of the merchant republics such as Venice, Milan and Lübeck. The Basics: Trade and profit are the main national characteristics for Eslandola. Although nominally ruled by a King, a trio of very powerful trade companies are the power brokers and have recently established a republic in the colonies. Their main source of income is through vast property holdings and they have developed a strong army and navy to protect and aggressively expand their interests. Typical Quote: "Enough profit for the day? Don't make me laugh!" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a shiny city of gold - join Eslandola. Read more: Eslandola thread Oleon Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Soldiers (Bluecoats) Primary real world influences: Pre-revolutionary France and Imperial Austria The Basics: The main national characteristics of Oleon are deeply rooted in their strict adherence to the religion known as 'The Faith' which together with the strong aristocracy form strong bases of political power. A great love for art and culture as well as ancient artefacts is also a national characteristic together with their famous wine making skills. Like Corrington they have developed a strong merchant fleet and navy. Although historically Oleon and Corrington have been bitter rivals, relations have been improving of late. Typical Quote: "May Zeus and Poseidon guide your journey." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a mystical artefact - join Oleon. Read more: Oleon thread Sea Rats Primary Lego Influence: Pirates Primary real world influences: Real world Pirates and free settlements such as Nassau. The Basics: The Sea Rats are basically anyone in the new world who owe no allegiance to any of the old world empires. These men and women go their own way. Some are fierce pirate lords, making a living terrorising the Brick Seas, others are peaceful merchants who refuse to bend the knee to any King, and some settle down at a romantic place in the colonies. The Sea Rats are a loose confederation with no central authority, whose binding characteristic would probably be the fierce defence of their freedom to live life completely on their own terms. Typical Quote: "What? You've never heard the tales of the reckless Benjamin Morgan? Benjamin, brave and bold? Dread Pirate Captain Morgan, on his legendary ship, the Queen Annetta's Revenge? Morgan the Moray?" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle... because it has an utter disregard for the rules - join the Sea Rats. Read more: Sea Rats thread Once you have chosen a faction, you are ready to move to step 2 and start building! (Next post)
  14. I am building a new car, in style of musclecar from 60's: long and quadrat. I want that car to be agressive and brutal. There are some variants of the front grille and lights, but cant make best decision. Please help me to choose the best. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Or may be quadrat lights (right side)? If it is possible, someone make a POLL here. I dont have such rights yet... Thank you.
  15. TheHarrower

    Custom Venator MOC

    Aloha! Im new here. The end. Just kidding. If you're willing, I'm in need of some help. So I'm attempting to build a custom made Venator Star Destroyer using 2x4 wedge plates instead of 2x3 wedge plates. Ive built part of the frame, however, I noticed when the plates are aligned with the central beam, the frame and plates do not align perfectly on the sides. They are off by a few millimeters, probably 1° or less. Is there a method, pattern or dimensions that would create a more accurate alignment between the 2x4 wedge plate and the frame that I have? Or would it be wise to scrap this and go with 2x3 plates instead? Note: the plates will have a slope when its near completion. p.s. eurobricks wouldnt allow me to submit a photo bigger than 102.4 KB. so i cant show the frame that ive built. Link to show the bow of the frame.
  16. Bielanskiii

    Help identifying model!

    Sorry for the bad quality, theres a limit on the size of the images. This is part of a train I found looking through old lego, and I can't find what the set it is from called, I'd like to try and put it all back together like it was. Hopefully someone on here will recognise it and can help me!
  17. Hi, i'm in the process of making a new MOC. It will be a mini assault on Hoth MOC, BUT with a kinetic walking AT-AT as centre-piece. I have parts to somewhat test the walking mechanism, but I don't have enough parts to build the whole MOC, so I can't acquire good footage and test it properly. I'm asking for someone with quite an impressive lego parts collection to build my moc, test it and take some photos and most importantly a video of it. Together we can improve it and eventually put it up on Rebrickable. Any other suggestions and/or improvements are ofcourse welcome as well. I will add a render of the current state of the MOC, just so you have an idea of the finished MOC. Thanks.
  18. Hi Everyone, This is my first post on here but I have been following some of the amazing minifig scale Star Wars MOCs' on here. I have been fascinated with them and decided to give them a bash. So far the rebel fleet includes UCS Slave 1, UCS Falcon (2017), Most recent A-Wing, I have made Intherts' X-Wing, U-Wing, as well as created a Y-wing using his cockpit and reverse engineered the main body of the ship form images. SO, to add to the fleet the Rebel scum have stolen the plans for a Lambda Shuttle.(I) They have gotten pretty far with the rebuild/reverse engineering of the design from the images on Marshal Bananas' Flickr but I have gotten stuck with the landing gear and how to connect the cockpit at those angles! I have started ordering parts for the real build. I'm about 50% delivered and will be starting on the cockpit first to try work it out in actual bricks. Would welcome your comments as well as any advice you guys may have about the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/150280550@N02/ MB Lambda Shuttle by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr MB Lambda Shuttle #1 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture4 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture5 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture6 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture3 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture1 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Thanks! Hamish
  19. Hi Everyone Totally new member and first ever post so sorry if I haven't got the etiquette right. I've done quite a lot of big lego sets but I've never had a problem before and googling makes it seem like I'm the only person to have this problem and I don't know what to try next. I am step 200 of 752752 - where you attach the first big plate to the skeleton. No matter what I do it just falls apart (see picture) - not dramatically or anything but every time one of the blue, red or black cross pieces comes off, when i try to reattach it, another one comes away and so until i want to throw it against a wall! I don't think anything is bowed or anything - and in any case it doesn't happen to the same piece each time. I have compared it to the picture and I'm pretty sure it's accurate...I've even tried small piece of blutack to hold pieces in place (I really don't want to glue) and I just don't know what to do. Any advice please? Thanks in advance!
  20. Hello guys , I desperately need a stud.io expert's help : I am doing builds for Star Wars factions using LDD and stud.io and I've stumbled upon some roadblocks in my use of Stud.io. Namely : 1) I cannot find any way to make parts that are supposed to be dual-molded be two different colors. For example I want a minifig's legs to be tan in their upper area , with dark bluish grey as the "boots"/lower part. Another example is a doctor who sonic screwdriver - I want the "body" to be pearl grey but the "light bulb" on top to be a trans green or trans blue . Is there any way , direct or indirect , to achieve that ? 2) What I also looked for , but could not find , was a way to use my own custom decals on , say a minifig torso . Is there any way of accessing the decoration/decal database of the programm and adding my own / replacing an existing one with my own ? If this has been answered / covered elsewhere , feel free to lock / delete the topic and point me to the right direction. Thanks in advance to anyone kind enough to help.
  21. Hello everyone, I was looking over the forum whether same question has been already posted somewhere, but couldn't find it, so I hope I am not doubling the topic: Q1: Is there a possibility to extend or shorten the technic linear actuators (92693c01, 61927c01 and 40918c01) in stud.io? Are there at least parts made of those in shortest and longest state and where can they be found? Q2: Is there a tool or a trick to align two i.e. liftarms, each with its own fixed pivot point to a position where those two cross (like two circles crossing each other) - is it possible to find that exact crossing in stud.io? I am putting most of my hopes into @efferman, @Zerobricks and @M_longer as I've seen quite a lot of great digital stuff coming from them. I would really appreciate any help from any other who might know something about it as well. I thank you in advance, Best regards, Miha
  22. Hi, yesterday I reinstalled windows (Windows 10 like before) and all the apps, LDD included, version 4.3.11, brick version 2670 ( I dont want the last version of the official LEGO page because is a broken piece of shit with the half of the pieces, thanks TLG). Well, the issue with the Adobe in the installation was solved but today I have opened a file and try to change a colour and... there is only red in the palette LOL. Kinda weird because I used this version until two days ago...even in my laptop I have it as well and I see the complete palette. Can someone helps me please?? I work with LDD and Stud.io makes me angry ( I need the double of time to make the same build, the mechanics are VERY CLUNKY) Screenshot-> https://imgur.com/a/oZjxCJa
  23. Long story short. One of my kids is now 4 years old and we have started to build some new Lego sets together. I have all my Lego saved from my own childhood, and I got a sudden urge to try and find and build some of the sets. Unfortunately they are all mixed in plastic bags. I hope to find help identifying some sets, and then use brickinstructions.com or other resource to piece them together. Link to images below, thanks in advance.
  24. In my car MOC, I braced both sides of most of the driven axles so when moving the axles won't wiggle out of the beams from the torque. In the example pictures below, I was wondering if the first picture, with the brown 3L with stop is good enough for use, or if I should always place a beam in front of it to prevent the 3L from pulling itself out (as shown in the second picture). Do I need to always prevent axles from pulling themselves out or is it fine without doing so? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  25. Hi all. I've designed the 2002 movie The Time Machine in a Technic build and submitted to Lego Ideas. If you like it, would appreciate your support in helping it become a real Lego set. Direct link to Lego Ideas page Lots more photos and details on the ideas site. It also works! (not the time travel)