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Found 56 results

  1. This part is already faulty. The hub could not detect it. Lego has replaced with a new one. Thanks. But I am curious. What has happened inside the motor. Can it be repaired by a non electronic man? So, let's open it up. There is no screw or any opening... Then I need to be a little bit tough on this. I used a knife and Philip screw driver. So, that's it. Well, if you think this 13 minute video is boring, please forgive me. Thanks for watching.
  2. Hello, I've been wondering wich would be the best set to gather basic PU components so I have put togwther the following table from bricklink & Eurobricks reviews. I hope you find it useful Set number Name Parts Price RRP (€) Hub 4 ports (22127) PU Motor XL PU Motor L WeDo Motor M PU Motor Angular Large Planetary Hubs Longest Lin. Actuators CV ball joints Wheels 42129 4x4 Mercedes-Benz Zetros Trial Truck 2110 Parts 300 1 3 1 4 3 Log + 7 std 4 Medium Claas Tires 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader 958 Parts 230 1 2 1 4 8 4 Claas tires 42114 6x6 Volvo Articulated Hauler 2193 Parts 250 1 1 1 1 2 6 Unimog tires 42109 App-Controlled Top Gear Rally Car 463 Parts 135 1 1 1 2 boring tires & 2 ugly tires 42100 Liebherr R 9800 4108 Parts 450 2 3 4 6 104 grey Threads 42124 Off-Road Buggy 374 Parts 130 1 2 4 new spiky tires 42131 CAT D11T BULLDOZER 3854 Parts 450 1 2 2 2 2 116 yelow Large Threads There are several interesting discussions on set prices and value for money across the forum (one in the the recent and excellent review of the 42131-cat-d11t-bulldozer ) and I am not going to dare to suggest any of them. It will depend on your current collection and your future plans but the facts to make your own decision are there. Robot inventor 51515 is a bird of different fur, so I am not considering here, but could be a possibility for some.
  3. Hi guys Recently, I finished another model. It is a tractor unit inspired by Scania S-Series trucks. It has 6x4 drive and suspended axles. The front axle is suspended with normal LEGO hard shock absorbers. The rear axles have rubber suspension which imitates air-suspension as used in real trucks. The suspension at the rear axles is a bit hard but chassis is in return flat. The fifth wheel as a self-locking mechanism so that you can couple a trailer easily. To open the fifth wheel a small linear actuator is used. For steering a PU L motor sits directly on the front axle. For propulsion I used two PU XL motors. But check the pictures and video: Instruction at Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86508/FT-creations/6x4-tractor-unit-inspired-by-scania/#details
  4. BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  5. Application for Control+, Powered Up hubs and motors. Allows you to create a profile for your MOC model and set up control in a convenient visual editor, right on your smartphone! Use your new electrics to the fullest! App available for iOS and Android. Get app: [AppStore] [Google Play]
  6. Hello My first post here. Found some posts regarding the comparison of Powered Up (PU) and Power Functions (PF), but it was rather related to Technic. Couldn't find any similar for trains. So I am considering to buy 60198 Lego Cargo Train which is powered by Powered Up. However, I read here about PU system that it is inferior to PF system, as considering it in LEGO Technic. So how it is in the Trains department? As far as I see: PF for trains has remote IR intutitive controller with two knobs; for A channel and B channel with max. 8 trains to control (with 4 controllers). Additionally battery box and seperated IR recevier is needed. PU has bluetooth remote controller, so clunky smartphone control can be omitted? But is PU remote controller in any point inferior to older PF controller? PU battery box has embedd bt receiver so less space is needed inside the locomotive, so it seems its better (less flexible though?) Coming back to 60198 buying consideration; I saw some offers of used PF systems for trains (separated or with a locomotive), but they are quite pricey: 55 EU for control set, and 100EU with control+locomotive (from 60052 or 7939 set). So is it better to buy this new set with PU or invest into older used (but better?) PF sets? Kind regards
  7. Lego released a new Creator veichle and as a tradition I have motorized it with remote control. A bit easier to hide all electric parts this time as the car is really big. But it is also heavy and slow with only one L motor for drive. There are some small changes to the interior, but all details are still there. I have created instructions to build it with Powered Up parts, but if there are any interest I might add instructions for other power systems later. Rebrickable Instructions Youtube Video
  8. I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86118 Sneak peek of the instructions:
  9. 01 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr Hello, Bozos! You can support Johnny 5 on Lego Ideas to turn him into an Official Johnny 5 Lego Set here: Johnny 5 on Lego Ideas Who is Johnny 5? Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Watch the YouTube video here to illustrate these functions better: Johnny 5 on Youtube Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg Johnny 5 MOC Pictures: 02 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 03 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 06 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 05 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 04 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 07 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 08 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 09 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 10 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr
  10. This is an alternate build of the Lego Set 42100, Liebherr 9800. Parts list used in the MOC is listed so you can opt to just buy the required parts instead of buying set 42100.Motorized features include: Tank drive for both tracks Arms upward/downward movements Head turn Head tilt Body tilt Manual play features include: Upper and lower eye flaps can be moved to show facial expressions. Finger movements. Limited manual arm movements Here's a link to the YouTube video to showcase its movements: RJ's Johnny 5 YouTube Video If anybody is interested, building instructions are available at Rebrickable.
  11. Johnny 5 needs your support to become an OFFICIAL JOHNNY 5 LEGO SET. Click the link below to support and feel free to share. - Link Removed - Who is Johnny 5? Hello, Bozos! Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Why Make a Johnny 5 Lego Set? In Short Circuit 2, Johnny 5 set up a new business with his old friend Ben Jahrvi that builds and sells toy robots made in Johnny 5's likeness. This little robot never made it into actual production after the film. Johnny 5’s popularity and the unavailability of access to these cute little Johnny 5 robots made people clamour for this toy. To date anyone can google sites for 3D printing Johnny 5 robots and websites dedicated to producing both life-like and miniature Johnny 5’s. Johnny 5 is one of the iconic fictional robots in cinema to date. He’s part of every child who’s lived through the 80’s like me who are now AFOLs and longed for the Johnny 5 toy that never came out. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg
  12. On the basis of a post I ordered the parts from AliExpress to make a Powered Up Extension Cable. I would like some advice. The photo shows my best efforts. When I plug in the light sensor - it lights up ( but I did not test beyond this) The train motor does not run. Without a crimping tool and rather basic soldering iron I was able to make a cable. I have tried to test the voltage and all seems OK, but I must admit I don’t really know what values I should be getting. I would also seek some advice on how to test the voltage values of the pins. I’ve used computer ribbon cable, is this OK? The extension cable that I made is about 100cm, it this too long? The size of the male plug from AliExpress had to be trimmed and reduced in size to fit into the LEGO HUB. I’m absolutely stumped. Any advice would be gratefully received.
  13. This video presents a revised version of an earlier Lego Technic Powered Up 3 speed automatic gearbox that I created. The previous gearbox used a differential for torque measurement and used a powered up large motor to convert the differential rotation into a torque measurement. However as many viewers have pointed out, it is possible to simply use the main motor speed measurement to infer the torque on that motor simply through the inverse linear relationship between the motor speed and it's load or torque. This saves the entire torque measurement portion of the gearbox resulting in a more compact and robust design. I also discuss the optimal gear switching points based on the gearing ratio R between the higher and lower gear. Thanks to philo (https://www.philohome.com/) for the torque vs speed graphs for the powered up motors.
  14. The lego Powered Up motors and functions have been used to create a 3 speed automatic gearbox. With the Powered Up functions you can accurately control motor speed and motor position, as well as being able to measure the angular position of a motor. These new possibilities have been used to create a three speed automatic gearbox. One motor is used to measure the torque at the output of the gearbox by detecting the rotation of an output differential; another motor is used to accurately set the position of an orange rotary catch controlling the switching between three forward gears, and finally one large powered up motor is used to drive the gearbox. The gearbox implements 3 forward speeds at gearing ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 0.6 and 1 to 0.2 as well as one manual reverse gear. The Powered Up app has been used to program the gearbox controller on an iphone. Thanks to (racingbrick.com) for providing a great guide to all of the available programming blocks. Hope you enjoy this video. https://youtu.be/CRkvFffDef8
  15. I got the Ecto for christmas and I felt the urge to squeeze in some remote controlled Motors. The new Powered Up have just the thing (although they are badly documented) One month after christmas I had it up and running. Tell me what you think. • quasi invisible • minimal invasive - all gadgets work • Battery replacement with no dissambling • light and sound kit still fits in • Lego POWERED UP Bluetooth Remote Control • no discontinued Power Functions • complete Instructions on rebrickable I made my first video about that: For this motorization I used LEGO's Powered Up Large Technic Motor for steering. That thing is just made to be used for the steering. It can act like a servo, because it has an internal position sensor. It is slim and dark bluish gray so it replaces that kardan drive below the front seat perfectly. Aditionally I didn't want to take it appart every time I change the batteries, so you can reacht it from the bottom.
  16. I'm missing a place where Powered Up code can be gathered and explained so other guys can reuse it or find inspiration. I had a discussion with @Jim how that could work out in this forum. I was thinking about having something like the hall of fame for code which underwent optimizations in a dedicated thread and which was proven to work. But this might lead to several thread which are prone to be inactive. So we decided to start with a single thread to publish PU code and discuss it. If it gets to chaotic We could have two separate thread. One for discussion and help request and the other one for working and optimized code. To keep things orderly, a general structure might be helpful. So here we start with my proposal. TL;DR: Automatic brake lights based on speed reduction Description: The following code switches brakes lights on in case the speed is reduced. That works for reducing speed while driving forward and backward. When the speed reaches 0, the light are turned off. In this code I'm using PF lights controlled by the Boost color and distance sensor. But that can be replaced with PU lights. Code: Video Declaration of variables: a - Used to control the speed, is set by the slider 0 b - Speed (a) at the first point in time c - Speed (a) at the second point in time d - Speed difference between b and c Detailed walkthrough: The code block consists of three rows. The first row consists of a loop (left) and the code block to control the speed of the motor (right). Most of the code blocks in the loop are not needed. You actually just need the first block which sets constantly a value for the variable a to control the speed. The rest are widgets for testing timings. The second row is the logic to detect speed differences. To do that constantly, a loop is used again. It simply reads a, the speed at different times. You can adjust the time between the measurments according to your needs. In my case 0,08s worked well. At the end of the loop the difference is set to the variable d. The value can be something between 100 and -100. The third loop at the bottom contains the logic to turn the brake lights on or off. You will also notice the purple blocks. They are used to control the PF lights. I'll come to that in a bit. First i want to explain the logic to turn the lights off an on. There are three scenarios: Driving forwards Driving backwards Parking When you are driving forward the max value of a is 100. Lets say the speed is suddenly reduced to 50. The difference is 50. When you are driving backwards the max value for a is -100. The speed is again reduced by 50. The difference is -50. When you are parking the difference is of course 0, because it doesn't change. So i have two condition i want to check for: Am I driving backwards or forwards? Is there a speed difference? I can exclude the third check, parking, by checking values for a that are greater or smaller than 0. So, in one sentence: IF there is a speed difference AND the speed is GREATER THAN 0 OR IF there is a speed difference AND the speed is SMALLER THAN 0 then turn on the light (upper purple block at the end). But how to control PF lights with Powered UP??? That is covered for example by @kbalage here. The first purple code block on the left sets the port and the correct mode for the boost sensor. The two purple code blocks on the right side control the brightness of the PF lights. D is the port where the sensor is connected to, 3 is the channel 4 on the PF IR receiver, 5 is the red or blue port on the IR receiver, 7 switches the light to max brightness, 8 turns it off.
  17. Hey guys, During a chat I was pointed to the Steinwinter Supercargo 2040. I was fascinated by the look and decided to build it. It was designed by the german engineer Manfred Steinwinter. During my research, I found out that he build only one prototype, but planned many more versions. I liked the three-axled version and so started with a rough sketch to get an idea of the proportions: While I was searching for images of that truck, I also contacted the current IP owner and asked for blueprints. Fortunately he liked my project and he send me some. Since then this truck went through many iteration of improvements and design changes. In the end I decided to use Powered Up to control it. This is the current state: These are planned/implemented features and specifications: Current weight: 3kg Length: 86 studs Height: 14 studs Width: 27 studs Power supply: 4x Technic hub Driving: 4x C+ XL motor, each motor is connected to one hub to spread the load (3,528:1, theoretically 0,74 km/h @7,5V @124Ncm) Steering: 1x C+ L motor, two steered axles with Ackerman geometry Compressor: 1x C+ L motor, 4 pumps 3 RC valves: 3x C+ L motor, 3x newest valve one for each the rear axle, front/middle left wheel, front/middle right wheel Angle sensor for suspension on front and middle axle: 2x C+ XL and 2x Boost Medium motors OR 2x C+ XL Angle sensor for rear axle: 1x motor (not implemented yet) Air/pneumatic suspension on all axles controlled by Powered Up double wishbone suspension on fron and middle axle Each front/middle wheel on the left and right side are one unit. That means if the front wheel is pushed up the middle wheel is pushed down. That way the weight is equally distributed on the wheels live rear axle When I decided to use Powered Up I thought about controlling the ride height somehow with Powered Up. To do that I needed something to read the position of the double wish bone arms and the rear axle. Since several motors in the C+/Powered Up eco system can report their position, tried to use them to read the angle of the suspension arm. I successfully implemented that on the front and middle axle. For the rear axle I haven't found a good solution yet, because that axle can move on two axis. While I'm waiting for some additional parts, I'm working on the solution for the rear axle. As for the code, I already made a proof of concept. I created a test setup and wrote some code, which reads the angle of a suspension arm and adjusts it to the desired value. for the finished MOC a can think of something like a parking height, highway ride height and more or less off-road height. Once the chassis is finished the and the Powered Up is working I'll start working on body. Feel free to leave comments, critique and suggestions.
  18. The circuit cube bluetooth kit with it's tiny motors keeps spreading within the AFOL train community (e.g. see this review or this wonderful model). I see two drawbacks with the current version of the official app: only one module can be connected it needs some kind of (expensive) smart device So I asked Tenka (the manufacturer of these kits) for details about the protocol. They kindly shared the documentation and so I started implementing a "bluetooth hub". Using the information from the legoino project my program connects to one LEGO Powered Up remote and up to two circuit cube modules. It runs on a tiny Computer ("M5 Atom") which measures 3x3 studs. So you still need an additional device, but this is tiny and inexpensive and can be placed somewhere on the layout - or even built into the trains. In the videos this is the small grey box connected to the USB power supply. In one mode you can control the official kit: as long as the buttons of the remote are pressed the motors spin with the maximum velocity: The other mode is useful for trains: when a button is pressed the velocities of all motors connected to the corresponding module are increased/decreased: This is currently a "proof-of-concept" - the source code is available in github but using it will require some (basic) knowledge about programming Arduino-like devices.
  19. Inspired by the Volvo EC750 Excavator with the new Powered Up motors All motors in the rotating platform Tracks with subtractor mechanism and two differentials Tensioner regulated tracks
  20. Sharing here my latest MOC of WALL-E powered by LEGO Control+ hubs and motors and controlled by LEGO Powered Up app. This is actually a recolor mod of my original b-model MOC for set 42100. All play features remain the same as seen in this demo: Full details, build instructions, and programming guide available on Rebrickable. WALL-E - https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-70839/gubsters/wall-e-technic-rc-powered-by-lego-powered-up-control/ WALL-L (Liebherr-Class) - https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-68302/gubsters/wall-e-phantom-b-model-for-liebherr-excavator-42100/ Let me know if you have any questions or any feedback. Appreciate it, thanks!
  21. Hello all, three years ago I finished a 1:350 scale model of the battleship Kongo, and now I have finally finished a second one! The Russian battleship Oktyabrskaya Revolutsiya launched in 1911 (originally as the Gangut) and served until 1956. I built the ship at the same scale as the Kongo as 1:350 is common for large plastic models. This video has more commentary and shows the ship running:
  22. I am building a RC version of the Lego Land Rover Defender (42119) and it will include a 3 speed sequential Transmission. It will be operated from the Powered-Up Lego app. using 3 buttons and it includes a dial that shows the selected gear. I am using a Technic Hub (88012) and a Technic Medium Angular Motor (45603). The Remote Control has 3 buttons; up-shift, down-shift and neutral. When the application is started it calibrates the shifting axle to be at the "neutral" gear and sets the angle to 0. Pressing the up-shift button will engage the 1st gear, then if pressed again the 2nd until it reaches the 3rd gear. If you press the up-shift button more times it will not move the shifting mechanism but will make a "clanking" noise. Pressing the down-shift button will sequentially shift to the next lower gear until it gets to neutral where again will make a "clanking" noise trying to go lower. To the right of the 3 buttons there is a dial that indicates the gear is selected. [Media]
  23. Hi All, I'm new to this forum, and new to the Lego RC train world. I have just started collecting this range with my son (who's 5) so this is mostly about me.... :) In all seriousness, he is over the moon with these trains and the sets in general and we have 3 already (60051, 60197 and 60198). I'm looking for some expert guidance as to the best and most cost effective way to be able to remotely control/motorise the switch tracks (points). Having done some research online, I see there are many ways, although i haven't found a definitive step by step guide yet. It would be good to get some valuable feedback and guidance from someone who has been through this process if possible (i.e method and functionality vs cost and practicality). Appreciate the time spent reading my post and any feedback received. James.
  24. My apologies if there's a tutorial on the recent updates to the Powered Up app somewhere - I haven't been able to find one. Having spent a couple of days playing with recent updates to the app, here's some stuff I figured out so far. I'm sure somebody can contribute with more: how to create custom control profiles with drive & steering motors (also works for the C+ Servo motor) how to set up joysticks, end-to-end buttons, sliders and how to enable controlling motors by tilting your device how to set up display of a motor's speed or position
  25. For the last 5+ years I have been running a train under my Christmas tree, powered by a LiIon PF battery box and double motors. I recently answered a question on Bricks.stackexchange.com where someone asked for advice on which power system to buy, and the answer I had to give surprised me so much, that I went ahead and changed my own strategy immediately as well. I am now the proud owner of an oval (16+ curves, 12 straights) with a L+R set of points of 9V track, including transformer, wall wart and power-to-rail connectors. Total cost were around $120, however, this is after deducting the going BL price for other train components that came with my purchase. If I didn't exclude those, my total would have been $190. (All US dollars). This prompted me to do a quick compare on the costs of a fully working train oval for under a Christmas tree. The Oval consists of 16 curves and at least 8 straights. The cost of whatever Christmas train you choose to run is not included: Powered UP: Battery Box: $50 at LEGO S@H, $35+shipping at BrickLink (only 1 US Seller) Motor: $14 at LEGO S@H Wheels & Axles: ~$3+shipping on BrickLink for 2 axles and 4 wheels Decorative sides: ~$2.50+shipping on BrickLink Tracks: 1 Track Pack (8 straights, 4 curves): $20 at LEGO S@H, $16 on sale occasionally at other stores; 12x Curved tracks: $6+shipping at BL or: Buy set 60197 ($160 at LEGO S@H, occasionally on sale for less at other stores (e.g. currently $128 at Target) plus 4x Straight track ($7+Shipping on BL) - used ones run about the same cost as the promo prices. Depending on how you count, this is $100-$160+tax for this setup, and you need to keep a mobile phone around (or pony up another $15 for the remote control), have to keep the connection alive, and will have to replace/recharge batteries every 2-3hrs. Power Functions: Battery Box: $13 on LEGO S@H ($15+shipping on BL), or the LiIon pack which has no US-based sellers currently neither on EBay nor BL, but should go for $100-$150 if available. IR Receiver: $10+shipping for a used one on BrickLink Decorative sides: ~$2.50+shipping on BrickLink Tracks: 1 Track Pack (8 straights, 4 curves): $20 at LEGO S@H, $16 on sale occasionally at other stores; 12x Curved tracks: $6+shipping at BL or: Buy a retired Power Function set (used) such as 60051, which with patience can be bought used, complete on EBay for $125-$150. You'd need extra straight track though (see Powered Up), which runs ~$7+Shipping. Again, depending on how you count, this is a $70-$150 purchase. Likely the cheapest option currently, until prices for Power Functions start skyrocketing once all components have officially retired. You get 2-3hrs run time, and unless you add $100 to your total for a LiIon battery box, you will need to buy rechargeable batteries and a charger (or cycle through alkaline AAA's like a madman). 9V: Get a used but working copy of 4561 ($100-$150 on EBay) Buy some extra straight track: 4*$5+shipping on BL (let's call it $25) Total: $125-$175 Suddenly the convenience of never having to change batteries or recharge with a $150 9V purchase sounds pretty attractive, doesn't it? Quite fascinating, for a product that has been discontinued for almost 15 years.