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Found 68 results

  1. BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  2. The lego Powered Up motors and functions have been used to create a 3 speed automatic gearbox. With the Powered Up functions you can accurately control motor speed and motor position, as well as being able to measure the angular position of a motor. These new possibilities have been used to create a three speed automatic gearbox. One motor is used to measure the torque at the output of the gearbox by detecting the rotation of an output differential; another motor is used to accurately set the position of an orange rotary catch controlling the switching between three forward gears, and finally one large powered up motor is used to drive the gearbox. The gearbox implements 3 forward speeds at gearing ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 0.6 and 1 to 0.2 as well as one manual reverse gear. The Powered Up app has been used to program the gearbox controller on an iphone. Thanks to (racingbrick.com) for providing a great guide to all of the available programming blocks. Hope you enjoy this video. https://youtu.be/CRkvFffDef8
  3. I am working on a retractable bridge, and have it working with two buttons. One button extends the bridge and the other retracts it. The problem is, if I'm not paying attention and extend the bridge when it's already extended, it breaks the mechanism apart. Same happens if I retract when it's already retracted. Is there a way to disable a control if a criteria is met? For example, if I extend the bridge, can I disable the extend function until I press the retract function?
  4. Well, i'm a small creator, but I want to make my creations public here, and like other creators I find it uneffective to create a new topic for every MOC, so, from now on, I will use only this topic to publish new creations. Here comes a new MOC: This is an alternative model for the set 42099 "4x4 X-Treme Off-roader". It's an off-road pickup, i call it "Turbo Pickup". I wanted to create a vehicle that didn't use the geared down wheel hubs available on the set, so that i could achieve higher speeds with less gears involved and consequently less friction, while at the same time designing something different from what is already available and this is what i came up with: an off-road racing pickup. It is RWD and the two rear wheels don't use the hubs, they're connected to a differential which has both XL-motors driving it one on each side. This uncommon setup surprised me with its strength and speed, the motors won't stall easily on this one, the picture below shows the motors setup, but watch the video at the bottom of the page to get a clearer idea. Physical characteristics: Length: 42cm / 53 studs Width: 23cm / 29 studs Heigth: 18cm / 22 studs Weight: 1,2Kg (with batteries) Functions: - Independent suspension on all wheels - Remote-controlled steering - Remote-controlled drive on the rear wheels: RWD Miscelanious aspects: - The final gear ratio from the XL motors into the rear wheels is 1,4:1 (my fastest alt model so far for this set). - The front axle ground clearance are 4 studs, and 6 studs on the rear axle. - Batteries can be easily swapped from below on this one. - The green button to turn on the PU hub is easily accessible on the driver's cabin. Check some real pictures below and the video at the bottom of the page: Feel free to share your thoughts. As usual, for anyone who fancys building this MOC, the instructions are available on my rebrickable.
  5. Hello, I'm wondering where people might be discussing Powered Up coding? I'm trying to add sound to my code so that a motor sound will run when my vehicle is in motion. As well, the new Winter Tram has some interesting stop and start sounds, and I wondered if anyone knows how to bring those in to use made code? Any and all help is appreciated!
  6. Control Lego Control+, Lego Powered Up, BuWizz 2.0, BuWizz 3.0 devices. You can create a profile for your MOC model on your smartphone or set up gamepad controls. Supported: - Lego Technic Hub, - Lego Boost Hub, - Lego Smart Hub, - BuWizz 2.0 (BuWizz extension pack), - BuWizz 3.0 Pro (BuWizz extension pack) Motors: - Powered Up, - Control+, - Mindstorm Robot Inventor, - Spike Prime, - Power Functions Get app: [AppStore] [Google Play]
  7. Toxic43

    MOC: Power Tank Engine!

    Stupid name, I know. It wasn't intended to stick, but here we are... This MOC started out as a chassis test and grew from there. I was trying to build as compact a steam based driveline as possible, similar to my Powered Up Shunter from a while back. While that was the smallest I felt I could go with a Diesel (using strictly LEGO parts and legal techniques only) this was kind of the same exercise but with a steam locomotive. Obviously I couldn't hide a battery box in the loco anywhere, so I made a tender. Not prototypical, I know, but this isn't based on anything in particular. It's fantasy for a fictional railway that doesn't really even exist outside of a couple of locos with the WFLR initials on them! That being said, here is my design process so far. Power Tank Engine MOC on Imgur. Sorry for the whole external host thing. Maybe I'll modify the post once I get time to manually resize all the images and embed them from the Imgur links. For now, the external link will have to do. Sorry! I may convert this into a proper tank engine at some point with a coal bunker on the back and a boxcar for the battery box, but I'm pretty happy with it for now.
  8. *A Lego IDEAS submission* Frankie's Farm by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Welcome to the farm! This is a farm-themed freight train set that features the small diesel engine Shiro-chan. Shiro-chan v2 (front) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr There are three freight cars to transport cargo from the farm to your LEGO town. These are an all-purpose gondola, a tanker car, and a wood-paneled livestock car. Gondola (v2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Tank Car by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Stock Car (open) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr The farm consists of a barn with a loft, a mini tractor with a trailer, and a raised goods platform with a crane hoist. Barn Full by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Tractor (front) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Farm Platform by Nick Jackson, on Flickr In the barn's loft there is a spot where a minifigure can take a quick nap next to the hay! Barn Loft by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Barn Open by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Drive the tractor and trailer to haul crates' worth of goods and supplies between the barn and the platform. The cargo platform has attachment points in the base which allow you to rearrange the ramps and staircase. The barn can also attach to the platform. For minifigures, there are two train operators, three farmhands, and an assortment of farm animals including cows, chickens, dogs and cats. Barn, Tractor, & Minifigs by Nick Jackson, on Flickr I built this digitally via Stud.io, but I have also built Shiro-chan (the engine) in real life. Depending on how the support campaign goes, I will attempt to construct the rest of the set. Not all of the parts exist (yet) in the colors depicted however. Thanks so much for taking some time to look at my project! **UPDATE** 6/28/22 So, I ordered some parts and set about building this in real bricks! I think the set turned out rather well! Can you spot the differences between the renders and the irl build…?
  9. I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. EDIT: final version of the semi: Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90482 (Semi Tractor) https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90484 (Box Trailer) The first iteration/prototype: Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86118 Sneak peek of the instructions:
  10. Hello Train Tech! I haven’t been here for a while, but I have been building trains! I recently came across an old thread on the Boston and Albany 4-6-6T suburban tank engine, and I saw a comment about its smaller sibling. Well, I am here to share not one, but two suburban tank engines, including the aforementioned 2-6-6T, which I still consider one of my best models to date. To make things as confusing as possible, the NYC called both of these engines D-2a, though not at the same time. The 1912 D-2a (2-4-4T) went out of service shortly before the 1928 D-2a (2-6-6T) changed names. Both engines can navigate all R40 geometry and are much more buildable and usable than my first suburban tank attempt, though the 2-4-4T has to use Powered Up due to size limitations. The two videos at the end go into more detail about each engine and build.
  11. Hi all, I would like to introduce you to my latest biped based on the Powered Up platform. Here's a copy and pasted quick introduction - Introducing Bot 7 - My 7th generation LEGO Powered Up humanoid biped. The bot is built with 8 Technic Large motors. Bot 7 has 6 DOF for leg movement and 2 motors for shoulder joint and arm movement. The bot has been programmed using the Powered Up app. Battery boxes have been placed on the side of the bot to improve body tilting for movement and provide stability when the bot perform a hip + knee tilt. This bot features - * Large step size continuous movement (forward, backward, left and right turn) * 360 degrees shoulder movement * 270 degrees arm movement * Incredible hip + knee tilt without touching the ground * a highly recognisable t-shirt 7 :) Comments are welcome, happy building! /cheung
  12. Hey Guys. I have been working on this project on and off since September of 2021. It is not my first MOC, but the first I care to show off here as I feel it is of a sufficient standard. Small Powered Up Shunter - Pybricks Control The brief was originally a clone of @BrickPirate's Small PF Shunter, and I was indeed using Power Functions parts in the beginning. As there were no instructions or files available, I reverse engineered what I could and went on from there. Then I decided I didn't want the smallest shunter ever, just the smallest on my layout. I also liked a more rounded styling and incorporated that into the design. The colour choice was pretty much determined by what I had to hand after designing a previous MOC (An Emerald Night clone in dark azure with a custom tender and 2L PF motors in the boiler). The white was to somewhat hide the Powered Up Hub in plain sight. The side covers are shamelessly ripped straight from the aforementioned MOC. I put a couple of round times with holes on the front long hood to allow the hub's light and power switches to be accessible. Previously I was removing tiles to access the power switch. Now I can use an axle or whatever I have to hand to power on and off. But there was a little unused space in the rear electrical box hood, so I made a little starting pin which can hide inside if I'm ever anywhere without a technic axle to hand! It just pops in the hole, then a couple of presses later the hub is powered on and the Pybricks program is started. The pin then gets stowed in the rear again until it is time to switch off. I originally had this on PF with a train motor in place, which I decided was just too fast and uncontrollable for slow shunting work. So I decided to put in a Powered Up linear motor. The medium was the only one which was able to fit. The square profile helps with fitment as it is only connected to the chassis physically by the axle to the drive gears. Otherwise it just sort of rests in there. The sided and rear short hood hold it in place against the back of the PU Hub. The wiring is a mess as it has nowhere to go but up in this configuration, but there's no room for a Minifig, so not too much of a sacrifice. The drive software is actually from another Train Tech thread. Control your trains without smart device - with Pybricks courtesy of @Lok24 With the custom profile they designed I can now move around the layout at reasonable speed pulling a consist, and then with a press of the centre button on the PU controller, I can switch into super low speed shunting mode. The benefits of the linear motor here are that the Hub will control voltage to keep the loco moving at the desired speed according to load. Plus the gear drive sounds a little bit like cooling fans spinning so I can pretend a little bit! Overall I'm quite happy with it for now, but I will probably end up changing out a few more things as time goes on. If I can get the motor mounted horizontally I may be able to get the drive line top a 4WD version, but I'm not holding out any hope. Poor little guy could really use 4WD! It can get stuck on points and does slip quite a bit if I load it up with too many pieces of rolling stock. I have custom traction bands on in place of the standard Lego ones for more grip but it does struggle for it sometimes. Thanks, hope you enjoy the pictures. I'll see if I can get a little running video together later on.
  13. Hi guys Recently, I finished another model. It is a tractor unit inspired by Scania S-Series trucks. It has 6x4 drive and suspended axles. The front axle is suspended with normal LEGO hard shock absorbers. The rear axles have rubber suspension which imitates air-suspension as used in real trucks. The suspension at the rear axles is a bit hard but chassis is in return flat. The fifth wheel as a self-locking mechanism so that you can couple a trailer easily. To open the fifth wheel a small linear actuator is used. For steering a PU L motor sits directly on the front axle. For propulsion I used two PU XL motors. But check the pictures and video: Instruction at Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86508/FT-creations/6x4-tractor-unit-inspired-by-scania/#details
  14. Hey guys, During a chat I was pointed to the Steinwinter Supercargo 2040. I was fascinated by the look and decided to build it. It was designed by the german engineer Manfred Steinwinter. During my research, I found out that he build only one prototype, but planned many more versions. I liked the three-axled version and so started with a rough sketch to get an idea of the proportions: While I was searching for images of that truck, I also contacted the current IP owner and asked for blueprints. Fortunately he liked my project and he send me some. Since then this truck went through many iteration of improvements and design changes. In the end I decided to use Powered Up to control it. This is the current state: These are planned/implemented features and specifications: Current weight: 3kg Length: 86 studs Height: 14 studs Width: 27 studs Power supply: 4x Technic hub Driving: 4x C+ XL motor, each motor is connected to one hub to spread the load (3,528:1, theoretically 0,74 km/h @7,5V @124Ncm) Steering: 1x C+ L motor, two steered axles with Ackerman geometry Compressor: 1x C+ L motor, 4 pumps 3 RC valves: 3x C+ L motor, 3x newest valve one for each the rear axle, front/middle left wheel, front/middle right wheel Angle sensor for suspension on front and middle axle: 2x C+ XL and 2x Boost Medium motors OR 2x C+ XL Angle sensor for rear axle: 1x motor (not implemented yet) Air/pneumatic suspension on all axles controlled by Powered Up double wishbone suspension on fron and middle axle Each front/middle wheel on the left and right side are one unit. That means if the front wheel is pushed up the middle wheel is pushed down. That way the weight is equally distributed on the wheels live rear axle When I decided to use Powered Up I thought about controlling the ride height somehow with Powered Up. To do that I needed something to read the position of the double wish bone arms and the rear axle. Since several motors in the C+/Powered Up eco system can report their position, tried to use them to read the angle of the suspension arm. I successfully implemented that on the front and middle axle. For the rear axle I haven't found a good solution yet, because that axle can move on two axis. While I'm waiting for some additional parts, I'm working on the solution for the rear axle. As for the code, I already made a proof of concept. I created a test setup and wrote some code, which reads the angle of a suspension arm and adjusts it to the desired value. for the finished MOC a can think of something like a parking height, highway ride height and more or less off-road height. Once the chassis is finished the and the Powered Up is working I'll start working on body. Feel free to leave comments, critique and suggestions.
  15. I'm puzzled over very similar specs of Powered Up L and XL motors, according to Philo's research. I believe I'm not the only one though )). It looks like a good move to invest only in L motors, since they are lighter, smaller and just as powerful. But what's the catch? Are there any insights on the subject? Any additional field test results? Looking forward, thanks!
  16. Problem: Powered Up hub Bluetooth disconnects shortly after running a custom program in the Powered Up app Details: I have the Crocodile locomotive that runs perfectly when I'm using the Lego Crocodile program. It will run without the Bluetooth disconnecting. Recently I made a small custom program in the Powered Up app and noticed that the Bluetooth was disconnecting frequently. I've tried a lot of different combinations to see if I could isolate the fault of the problem. 1. (Android device) Ran the Crocodile locomotive using the Lego Crocodile program and timed how long it would run before Bluetooth disconnected - Ran until I stopped it. 2. (Android device) Ran Croc using custom program and timed how long it took for Bluetooth to disconnect - Disconnects in about 30 seconds. 3. (iOS) Ran the custom program with my iPad and Bluetooth stayed connected longer, but still disconnected after about 2 minutes. 4. Got a reply from Lego Tech Support - Mostly checking settings, etc. (I checked settings and didn't find anything I needed to change). 5. Did some more testing - Verified with Android and iOS that the Lego crocodile program will run without Bluetooth disconnecting. Works perfectly (Ran the train for >5 minutes) 6. I tried putting iOS and Android device in different locations to see if that would make a difference; it didn't. I am <5 meters away from the hub. 7. My Android is up to date and so is the Powered Up app. I've probably tried some other things that I forgot to list. I've searched for others with the similar problem but I haven't found anything that matched. Any guidance on why the Bluetooth works fine when using the Lego crocodile program, but when using a simple custom one, it loses connection within minutes? I am planning to run a multi train set up with programmed stops, etc. Thank you in advance for any replies!
  17. Hi. If this is the wrong question in the wrong place then feel free to direct me to the right place. I have the top gear rally car model which uses a bluetooth powered up controller app on a phone and that works. What I want to do is to find a generic controller library / software that I could run on a laptop or PC (windows or linux either is acceptable) to use to control the powered up devices without specifically knowing which model it is. What I want to do is to use it as an environment to teach about programming. Yes there may be better educational environments but being lego it will appeal and this is what I have so nice as it would be I am not about to rush out and spend more money on mindstorms or similar. I did find some very basic "generic controller" apps on the apple store but while they were able to drive different models, albeit with the same basic motors none of them seemed to be able to drive the main motor. Steer yes, but not the motor itself, even though the model specific app does work. Essentially what I would hope for would be a library of routines which really knows nothing more than channel and setting for each of the available channels on any powered up controller brick. Is there such a thing out there already? Thanks in advance
  18. Hi Everyone, Here I describe a method for measuring the efficiency of a gearbox using the Lego Technic Powered Up hub (Control+) and a motor to lift a weight. Gearbox efficiency is defined as the ratio of the output power to the input power and here I show how to measure each of these values to allow you to calculate the overall efficiency. Gearbox losses are due to friction within gears and axles rubbing on the liftarms. By measuring these losses gearbox designs can be tested and improved. Efficiency values are calculated and shown for several gearing combinations and for an automatic gearbox design.
  19. So I was working on a trophy truck/buggy sort of thing with powered up in Bricklink Studio and I was wondering if it is possible to use a buggy motor with an adapter cable together with the large technic hub or train hub. If someone has the proper components to test this idea out, I would really appreciate it. Here is the sort of thing I am trying to build.
  20. I got the Ecto for christmas and I felt the urge to squeeze in some remote controlled Motors. The new Powered Up have just the thing (although they are badly documented) One month after christmas I had it up and running. Tell me what you think. • quasi invisible • minimal invasive - all gadgets work • Battery replacement with no dissambling • light and sound kit still fits in • Lego POWERED UP Bluetooth Remote Control • no discontinued Power Functions • complete Instructions on rebrickable I made my first video about that: For this motorization I used LEGO's Powered Up Large Technic Motor for steering. That thing is just made to be used for the steering. It can act like a servo, because it has an internal position sensor. It is slim and dark bluish gray so it replaces that kardan drive below the front seat perfectly. Aditionally I didn't want to take it appart every time I change the batteries, so you can reacht it from the bottom.
  21. Hey I purchased 60198 City cargo train set and I run may train either with the remote or with my smartphone powered up application. For me powered up has much more potential when used with pybricks. So I tried to use my city/train hub with pybricks to write some programs to run my train. Unfortunately, I got stuck on installing firmware for pybricks (bootloader). I followed guidelines from their webpage, so was holding green button till light started blinking in purple and then clicked "Install Pybricks firmware" button in Pybricks code webpage opened in my browser. Light on hub is blinking red/green/blue and there is shown progress in % (Pybricks code webpage) after it reaches 100% error message occurs: "Hub took too long to respond" and hub led blinks red/green/blue in infinite mode - you need to put off batteries to stop it. On Github pybricks/support I found whole topic regarding that error message "Hub took too long to respond" and probably there is solution to that problem but I am beginner at Python programming so don't know how to solve this problem. Should I write some kind of input file to get through that issues with bluetooth or other? They put some code file there but I totally do not know how to use it. Here is link to that support page: https://github.com/pybricks/support/issues/256 Any help welcome :) Regards
  22. Hello, I've been wondering wich would be the best set to gather basic PU components so I have put together the following table from bricklink & Eurobricks reviews. I hope you find it useful Set number Name Parts Price RRP (€) Hub 4 ports (22127-clip) (85824-screw) PU Motor XL PU Motor L WeDo Motor M (no position sensor) PU Motor Angular Large Planetary Hubs Longest Lin. Actuators CV ball joints Wheels 42140 App-Controlled Transformation Vehicle 772 130 1 2 96 standard tracks & rubber attachments 42129 4x4 Mercedes-Benz Zetros Trial Truck 2110 Parts 300 1 3 1 4 3 Log + 7 std 4 Medium Claas Tires 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader 958 Parts 230 1 2 1 4 8 4 Claas tires 42114 6x6 Volvo Articulated Hauler 2193 Parts 250 1 1 1 1 2 6 Unimog tires 42109 App-Controlled Top Gear Rally Car 463 Parts 135 1 1 1 2 boring tires & 2 ugly tires 42100 Liebherr R 9800 4108 Parts 450 2 3 4 6 104 grey Threads 42124 Off-Road Buggy 374 Parts 130 1 2 4 new spiky tires 42131 CAT D11T BULLDOZER 3854 Parts 450 1 2 2 2 2 116 yellow Large Threads There are several interesting discussions on set prices and value for money across the forum (one in the the recent and excellent review of the 42131-cat-d11t-bulldozer ) and I am not going to dare to suggest any of them. It will depend on your current collection and your future plans but the facts to make your own decision are there. Robot inventor 51515 is a bird of different fur, so I am not considering here, but could be a possibility for some.
  23. Lego released a new Creator veichle and as a tradition I have motorized it with remote control. A bit easier to hide all electric parts this time as the car is really big. But it is also heavy and slow with only one L motor for drive. There are some small changes to the interior, but all details are still there. I have created instructions to build it with Powered Up parts, but if there are any interest I might add instructions for other power systems later. Rebrickable Instructions Youtube Video
  24. This part is already faulty. The hub could not detect it. Lego has replaced with a new one. Thanks. But I am curious. What has happened inside the motor. Can it be repaired by a non electronic man? So, let's open it up. There is no screw or any opening... Then I need to be a little bit tough on this. I used a knife and Philip screw driver. So, that's it. Well, if you think this 13 minute video is boring, please forgive me. Thanks for watching.
  25. Hello My first post here. Found some posts regarding the comparison of Powered Up (PU) and Power Functions (PF), but it was rather related to Technic. Couldn't find any similar for trains. So I am considering to buy 60198 Lego Cargo Train which is powered by Powered Up. However, I read here about PU system that it is inferior to PF system, as considering it in LEGO Technic. So how it is in the Trains department? As far as I see: PF for trains has remote IR intutitive controller with two knobs; for A channel and B channel with max. 8 trains to control (with 4 controllers). Additionally battery box and seperated IR recevier is needed. PU has bluetooth remote controller, so clunky smartphone control can be omitted? But is PU remote controller in any point inferior to older PF controller? PU battery box has embedd bt receiver so less space is needed inside the locomotive, so it seems its better (less flexible though?) Coming back to 60198 buying consideration; I saw some offers of used PF systems for trains (separated or with a locomotive), but they are quite pricey: 55 EU for control set, and 100EU with control+locomotive (from 60052 or 7939 set). So is it better to buy this new set with PU or invest into older used (but better?) PF sets? Kind regards