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Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
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(Click to skip to the post with the latest photos) The Backstory: For years I've wanted to be able to display my 12v collection at shows/exhibitions/libraries or wherever, but the wiring is a challenge - I reckon on my last full layout there was 250 to 300 feet (75-90 metres) of the stuff, which on a static layout is one thing, but one built in modules for transport is a challenge. Three or four months ago I came up with a solution (more on that below) and the dreaming started. After much playing in Bluebrick, and nostalgic posts appearing here about older era trains, I settled on a plan. I still had a bunch of my old blue track from the 4.5v era, but no motors. Off we go to Bricklink then! The Layout So, here's the plan. Ten years ago I had a small portable layout on 4 modules, each 3x5 baseplates, and over the years have simply added more of these. Following my Bricklink spree, I now have 2 working 4.5v motors, so rebuilt the loco from set 183 and I have the loco from 7720 in progress. These 2 will feature on the 4.5v loop below, which is 3 of those modules. Next to the 4.5v loop will be the showpiece, the main 12v loops. 12v Lower by andyglascott, on Flickr And on the right of the layout will be the 9v loops. Unlike the other 2 eras, I will have 9v track left over, so this is likely to be expanded in due course, particularly as @michaelgale releases motors, power supply etc. 9v Loops by andyglascott, on Flickr Lastly, there will be another 12v loop, elevated, which will run across the back of all three eras. 12v Upper by andyglascott, on Flickr Putting all of those together looks like this (the white baseplates are roughly where the mountains, tunnels etc will be for the elevated sections. The green and grey sections are simply so I could keep track of where the 3x5 modules were to try and avoid having curves/points on more than one module. When it all comes together, in most likely a couple of years, I'll be able to run 6 trains at a time. Whole Layout by andyglascott, on Flickr The Beginning After all the planning, and clearing away of my last (incomplete) layout, I've finally started building the first module, part of the 4.5v loop. I decided to start here as this will be the quickest era to build, and to a large extent, each era can also be displayed as a stand-alone smaller layout. These three modules will be countryside/farmland, and the trains will reflect the farming side of it when they get built. Module 01 Pic 02 by andyglascott, on Flickr The 12v Wiring The solution that I've come up with is fairly simple, but does involve taking a drill to some baseplates.... At each of the 12v points or signals I'll drill a small hole through the baseplate and the wood for each module, thread the wire through and attach either the original Lego plugs or a quick connect/release plug/connector so that when the layout is set up I'll use already measured lengths of wire to go from that point to the control panels, which will be on their own module. This is going to be a heck of a journey, and build, I'll post updates from time to time, particularly at landmark moments such as completing an "era". I always said, growing up, I was keeping my Lego for my kids. It was really only an excuse, and I'm really glad I didn't sell my old blue track even though I didn't, for years, think I'd use it. Sadly my original 4.5v motors, battery boxes, lights and even signals are long gone, but I was only 7 or 8 when I got 7720.... -
Hey Eurobricks! I've been away from my 12V trains for a bit to focus on school, but recently I took a trip to Denmark with my family, and by some miracle, we walked into a games and collectibles shop, Faraos Cigarer, which happened to have purchased the largest privately owned LEGO collection in Denmark that week. I'm releasing a YouTube series about the entire story, and just published the third part, which details the crazy collection and what I ended up buying (spoiler alert, it's an ultra rare Scandinavian box variant!). Check out this video and the rest of the series on my channel, and I'll be releasing more content soon!
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I have recently discovered the beatiful world that is the 12V, grey era, train system. It began when I bought a lot on a garage sale in Denmark, while I was attending Skearbaek Fan Weekend. For 40 euro's I had a box that contained lots of material, a complete 7725 passenger train amongst other things. So I've started MOCing with the loose parts I've got . First production is a shunting locomotive with working lights. Instructions are available on ReBrickable I had also began working on a PoweredUp shunting locomotive but that one didn't really work out (see below) I hope you like it! I'm brainstorming about a 12V layout now but I'm struggling with the approach. I don't really have the space so I need some kind of modular way of setting it up.
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This weekend the Railway Preservation Society of Ireland are relaunching their Class 141 loco B142 after an overhaul (details here if you're interested, and more on the loco itself here), so I figured it was time to share my rendition of it. As with all my 12v stock it's 6 wide, which limits the detail that can be included! I had figured out a way to brick build the curved lines on the front, but that would have left a very flat front of the cab - Irish diesels have an awful lot of flat planes to the cab ends so the compromise was to use some slopes but keep the orange and white lines straight. I'm getting more used to stickers, and am reasonably happy with how the stickers on the 2x2x6 windscreens came out to give the three front windows. Overall, I'm really happy with how it turned out even if the details I did get in don't accurately match the original. Anyway, here are the pics, starting with my main reference image. 142_01 Side view: 01 The doors on the real thing are the diagonal panel on the back of the cab, 1 stud wide slopes on my model, so I created doors on the side while staying as true to the design as possible - a minifig has to be able to fit through the door! Front view: 04 And the classic 3/4 view: 02 The pics were all taken on a stored module of my bigger layout, hence the wooden sky in one or two of them! Lastly, a short video of it running on a temporary loop recently: B142 Hope you all enjoy it.
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Hello, long time lurker but never contributed anything. I been considering ideas to let my 12v trains also use the 9v/RC tracks and one of the problems was to make the 12v curved rails fit I guess other people have tried this to, but I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... I made as short video showing the process using cheap RC tracks and the next step would be using copper tape (and I need a extra set of 9v contact points) for the 9v system, not sure if I want to tape the 12v switch track but I guess I can test it out on a "broken" track. I thought that traction could be a problem but it seems to handle it well (test drive at the end of the video), there is some spinning when starting the train with "high" voltage but at soon as it moves it's coping quite well.
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I searched for this website around here, but couldn't find anything about it. It explains a lot only about the 12v trains form 1980 till 1990, with the grey 12v track, that explains the name of this website. Now I collect also these trains, but have them quite a time complete already and start to moc/build a little with trains running at 12v. This is not mine website, I came it along searching for people at facebook who has the same interest in this system. Some of them want only use those bricks at that area time available. Some people really make very goodlooking models with newer bricks after that area. What me interest most are his moc's including free instructions. I did what I never thought possible, I made all this moc's, with a little rebuild of mine own. I always wanted a real model where the 7740 was based on, the Baureihe 103. I build one in tan/darkred as showcase in mine livingroom and build one yellow/red for mine layout together with the 7740. I already build 2 extra wagons and 6 wagons are too heavy for 2x 12v motors, they can burn broken when pulling too much. Now every train has 3 wagons to pull and an awesome sight to see them running together. I also made a video of that: Baureihe 103 and 7740 together running. And the tan/darkred one in mine livingroom: The 2d train what got mine interest is a dutch train the icm or nickname koploper (headwalker, because you can walk thought the head). I studied his instruction and others at rebrickable and started to pick the best parts of all designs in what I think it will look right beside to the other 12v trains. This is what I came up with: How does it looks beside the 7740? What was also a nice cute train and afterwards not easy to build, the NS600. It was a better version of the NS500, what dutch railways got from England after WO2 and still used this day by several big compagny's. I modified it a little with modern parts to look it more realistic. And than set 727, which I always liked. Only there was no minifig inside what will look odd beside the 12v grey area trains. Why not build a minifig one? Here we go: And than the last, but not least. The Baureihe 41 or would I say the ultimate 7777 in mine opnion. A friend loved it right away and wanted one. After I build it, I used the wheel set-up for mine 7750. After the ultimate 7777 was parked at mine layout for a while I started to like that one and thought, what the heck. Build one for myself. Only the big red wheels was painfull in mine wallet. And also made a video of it. And the 7750 XL has improved a lot with the longer wheel setup: Too bad I never met the person who made this site, but I own him a lot that these awesome trains find a way in mine layout. Exspecially the Baureihe 41 or ultimate 7777 looks awesome. A true steam engine through it basic colors. Still looking better than the emerald night (or flying scottmann) and bigboy. The bigboy is ugly as ugly, but awesome through it's size.
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Hi, I have a question for maintaining 12v tracks and motors, The motor speed at the first run was so fast that passenger coaches were derailed at the corner but after 10~12 mins running, it has become slower and stops in the middle of the track. So I though I may need some lubrication work and cleaning rails properly. Is spraying grease like Super lube works for lubricating 12v motors? or would affect solder part or plastic? or is there any tips for lubricating 12v motors? Also, cleaning the conductor rail, would whiskey or alcohol spirit with cloth work? as black spot does not go away. Thank you.
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Hi all, during a pleasant discussion in this thread... ...a very interesting question was raised by @SDLgo9 member: The 7777 idea book pages mentioned here are those three pages showing the blue matter (!) unloading station and the famous auto-unloading wagons. These wagons are pulled by an obscure locomotive, which is never fully depicted. In fact - the front view is missing, and there's no clear view of the boiler. I've NEVER taken care of it, nor analyzed it too much. It really seems a 7730-based locomotive, but simplified in some details. There's a strange combination of "simple look" and now overpriced rare parts. So maybe it's simple - but it is a wanted effect? Analyzing the whole scenery depicted in the book - it's not a place for a fancy locomotive. There's work to do - wagons are fully loaded and heavy, so that unloading station surely needs a workhorse. And these workhorse is powerful, maybe not so good looking, but simple and solid, ready for its everyday duty. Here's a rear view, similar to the one in the Idea Book: It's a long locomotive and it's not using the classic train base (like 7810). It's pretty boxy and looks heavy. I had to take the scans from Brickfactory and to modify the photos to see a bit better. But which parts were used of the body is pretty unknown to me. So, we have the 2x2x1 black windows on the rear part - being a 7730 derivate - there are also doors, and at this point, the 1x2x1 small black windows. But it seems (to me) that these are not facing towards the front, and instead are used as small side windows. Side reservoirs are big, so fitting the two weight bricks was not a problem. The smoke stack is visible and there's not so much to say - but the boiler...is not completely visible. I added a square steam dome just for completeness. There's an headlight on top of boiler, and it seems there are also two headlights on the "nose". They are not fully visible, for this reason I think these are not placed on the corners of the chassis. Let's try: Simple and straight - the boiler is not round, but goes down to the chassis, same "steering wheel" as in the 7730. Headlights are a bit more inwards. All in all it's a simplified 7730 nose. Then, a more "Narrow Gauge" look - always with 7730 parts: There could be more styles, just removing the front steering wheel part and playing with slope parts. Suggestions are welcome!!! Davide -
Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
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Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
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Hi All , just signed in to this forum cause I was wondering about something .... I'm into the 12 volt train system again and was wondering about modified 12 volt track . Hs anyone done some modifiyng on tracks , switches ,etc. ? Here's some pics of my own creations untill now... A half straight track with original contacts a point prototype with same angle as 2 curved rails Let's see what you guys have !
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Hi all, Does anyone have experience/ knowledge of using another type of cabling for 12v layouts and accessories other than the official Lego stuff? I'm looking for a cheaper alternative for long stretches of cabling. Thank you very much! ?
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A few days ago, I made a decision. I've tried to build big houses, buildings and trains and have never been satisfied. I and new pieces and colors doesn't match and when I am collecting 12v trains and buildings and was a kid in the 80s it was actually a pretty easy decision: My mocs will look as they are taken from a LEGO catalogue from 1982-86. So, here is my first try. The brand new 7833 Shell terminal from 1984! It's still only build digitally, but I think I'm going to buy the pieces to build it in real, too! Any ideas and thoughts are welcome. Be mercyful :-) http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-2.jpg http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-3.jpg
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Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo
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The 12v traincollectors know the rare and expensive 7750, I guess : Well I do like this steam engine a lot, but I miss that 'greatness' look. A bit tiny when you compare it with the real German steam engines. A friend of mine liked the model of Baureihe 41 from Fouke Boss. After I build it, the steam engine is slim, but the wheel setting would be perfect for a 7750. And that's what I did, although I had to make the set a 4 studs longer. In this way the 7750 is a more impressive train to look at and not a dwarf between al those modern diesel and electric locomotives. Welll compared with a BigBoy, every train is a dwarf . How does it looks in the curves? Well the project 7750 XL is finished and placed back on the shelve where it used to be. Too expensive to drive around with it. To enjoy the wheel setting, I use the 7777 of mine friend pushed along through a NS1700 at PF .
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Hello. Long time no see. It's been about a year since I last posted an update to my collection. This time I’d like to introduce my first MOC of 2024. [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr This is a locomotive that I became interested in after seeing @Paperinik77pk's post. The best feature is that it is powered by two 12v Technic motors. LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Latest MOC is a retry of the Köf II, which used the same motor but didn't have enough power. https://x.com/0815tanaka_lego/status/1756876699558608945?s=20 First, look at the running. The running speed in the video is the maximum speed. [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The biggest factor was being able to secure space to gear down. Initially, I designed it with a gear ratio of 3:5, but I couldn't get enough power, so I changed it to 1:9. It runs very well and can pull seven 6x28 base wagons in the range I tested it with. But it's much slower than a normal motor. [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr When mounting a minifigure, change the legs to avoid the axle. The original locomotive was owned by Barbara Pirch, so it uses an Ice Planet series head. [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The nose moves in the same way as #4551. [MOC] 12v German Crocodile E194 178-0 by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Line up with my previous work Swiss Crocodile. I am very happy that I was able to recreate the two crocodiles in 12v Thank you for reading to the end.
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So far, I have found 5 variations of instructions for set 7865, based on the year of release and languages. They are (1) @1980 LEGO System A/S EU II 108581 D/F/NL (2) @1980 LEGO Group A/S EU II 113081 D/F/NL (3) @1981 LEGO Group A/S EU I 113080 DK/N/S/SF (4) @1981 LEGO Group A/S EU II 113081 D/F/NL (5) @1981 LEGO Group A/S EU III 113079 UK/I/F Please kindly check your own copy so that we can complete this list. They will be added to Bricklink. If you want to see photos and learn more about these variations, continue to read: Let's look at differences between the three D/F/NL variations (beside the text given above): * The difference (1) and (2): a) On the later version, two red arrows are drawn on one image of motor showing how the middle wheels can be assembled on the motor. b) On the back side, there is a table showing how many of which track and sleepers are needed to build four different layouts A, B, C and D. * The difference (2) and (4): None! So I guess the 1980's version was printed in 1980 and then, TLG gave it a new year of release, matching the other two variations of 1981 (UK/I/F and DK/N/S/SF). I know 12v trains were sold in Denmark, Sweden,... since 1980 so I assume there should be a 1980 DK/N/S/SF version. I guess there is no 1980 UK/I/F version because 12v trains were not sold in UK, Italy or France in 1980. Future projects: instructions 7864 (and perhaps 7861). More photos: -
Hello EB, Recently I got a few more vintage train sets, and in particular I'm quite excited about 7727 and 7815. These are rare ones from 1983, and I got them both boxed! Check out the reviews below.
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Hi Eurobricks, I just released a review of 7725 Electric Passenger Train! This 12V starter set was released in 1981 as a supplement to the existing lineup, and is pretty common today. I was able to get a copy from Denmark in very good condition complete with a Scandinavian box variant, which I'm super excited about, as Scandinavian boxes are rare and this is my first one. Check out the full review below!
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Hey Eurobricks, It's been a bit since I posted - I've been super busy and haven't had much time for content creation. However, I've made some great purchases recently including a 7725 with DK/S/SF box, a 7760 in near-new condition, a rare poster, and recently, several sealed accessories from a US seller! I got them from eBay for good prices, not much more than used prices for these sets on Bricklink. I bought a set of points (7858 + 7859) for $60 each, a lighting set (7861) for $40, and decoupler (7862) for $140. I opened them recently on camera and learned some more about part variants - specifically, the copy of 7858 I got was the later box version, and after opening it I saw that it was a super late release of the set, from around 1992. I've opened two sealed accessory sets before - 7862 and 7860 - and it was awesome to open some more! Check out the full video below. I'm working on reviews of the train sets as well, so hopefully those will be posted soon! -
Hi all, I've started to use again the 3D printer after a big time it was unused (I had to re-align it and still has some work to do). Thinking about a model of @Evans (a large steamer in 12v style with old 12v medium size wheels - those of 7750 , but in black), I tried to recreate the original 12v medium wheels design and I also tried to go further, enlarging them to 37mm size. The new wheels feature 10 spokes as the original old wheels, angled at 36° each. I used Tinkercad since it is easy and more than sufficient for my projects. And this is the result ,printed both in black and red (red filament is new - I have to understand why there is black filament residual - I'm still a total noob on 3D printing ). I printed on a medium quality setting for the red ones. The black wheels were printed on draft setting. The filament I used is PLA - a medium cost one but it works fine. The red color is somewhat between the red one used for new Large wheels and the old red of the 80s. I think there are darker and lighter red filaments, but it's really difficult to tell if the printed result will be of the correct color (the raw filament color is quite the same as the original Lego wheels, but once printed...they are a bit brighter). I used a pair of normal red wheels (the ones used on wagons - like in 7720) I removed the original wheels, kept the "red axle" and used it with my 3d printed wheel. Then I locked again in place the red pin on the black wheel holder brick - and that's all. I'll post here all my experiments - there's a lot to improve! If you have any ideas or suggestions - feel free to comment! Ciao! Davide
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In 1980 the golden (grey) age of LEGO trains started. The Grey Era was lounged with a firework of great sets like #7740 and #7750 and the train station #7822 and the entire rail system with remote controlled switches, signals and later level crossing and decoupling unit. After collecting the missing sets over the last years, I thought of building some MOCs in the classic grey era style, maybe using some newer colours and elements. But to keep the characteristics of the original sets. @Paperinik77pk already came up with a lot of extraordinary stuff for the grey and blue era. So I took the social isolation time this weekend, lowered the blinds and got the photo equipment ready for some shots. Mallet Steam Engine (inspired by #7750 and the Baureihe 99 … I just wanted to build a "large" 12V style steam engine without copying the great work of @Paperinik77pk or the large steam engine in #7777) It opens like #7750 Rear view: Full side view: With historic cars: I build 3 of these cars, inspired by Hofzug Kaiser Wilhelms II. The cars are longer then the classic 6x28 train base plate. I added a 2x6 plate at each end. This requires a special way to lengthen the couplers and buffers. The bogie plate can not be moved outer due the limitations of the train base plate. And see the simple solution to fix the minifigure shield which I use as logo of the train: V100 diesel engine (based on #7755 with shorter base and 5-wide body) V100 diesel engine and so called "Silberlinge", very typical local train in Germany in the 1970s/1980s: Trains like this were able to operate in both directions due to a steering post in the end car: Side view of the "Silberlinge": Classic 12V style interior in both cars: Small electric engine in medium/blue and hopper car #4536 in brown, ready for the 12 volt system: Small electric engine in green/red hopper cars #4536 in brown, ready for the 12 volt system: Green electric locomotive with a red 12 volt motor inspired by Baureihe E 44: Green electric locomotive inspired by Baureihe E44: Enjoy and stay healthy these days! Best regards, Holger -
Two great trains are dueling on 12v gray track: the British Railways HST 125 vs the Deutsche Bahn BR403 "Donald Duck"! Two big countries with high expertise on trains,two different power sources (Diesel vs Electric), same speed (above 200km/h or 125mph). Who will win this Lego contest? None of them, since they both are built on the same Lego platform and shape - I created first the "Donald Duck" in Lufthansa colors and then I modified it a little to recall the HST125. So same power cars ,and same wagons, only with a different paint scheme . I've always focused on standard trains, and this is my first experiment with fast ones. After all , during "gray Era" we've seen a lot of steamers, diesels, electric trains...but only one example of fast train. So here's a shot of the DB403, with an applied sticker on front "window" to simulate double windscreens... ...and one of the "Screaming Valenta" - here the sticker is a bit different, but you can easily tell it is only a bigger one! Both are using parts available in the last years of "Gray Era" (so they could have been made starting from 1987). The HST could be a bit older than the 403 - since it's using the old style blue window in the cabin. I could also recreate a yellow sticker to cover the outer part of the trans-clear headlight, but I preferred to keep it as it is (just imagine the sticker detaching when the glue is old...I HATE that sensation ) Both could have working headlights, the DB403 can use a 12v light brick on top headlight. For the HST125 the problem is how to diffuse light from light brick to transparent slopes. But both trains could also leverage on 9V lights, which were already available at the time. The 9v Battery box fits easily in both bodies. Finally the 7745 has some internal competition!!! Hope you like these two! Ciao! Davide
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So, I'm curious... Does anyone else have a stage of a build, whether it be a building, rolling stock or, as in my case, complete layout that they have a love-hate relationship with? We move house too often for our liking, so recently I've been building new layouts every 2 to 3 years, and being a 12v based layout it involves a lot of wiring (see below for a bit of it). Much as I love the end result, the wiring drives me nuts and I really slow down in my progress when I get to the point of needing to do it all. Anyone else got "pet peeves" so to speak that are part of the fun? 20200927_115339 by andyglascott, on Flickr
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