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Found 42 results

  1. Hi everybody, I have been carefully watching all trains 7730 on sale in different countries since summer 2017. At the beginning, I realized that the 3 * yellow cones listed in the inventory in bricklink had axle hole: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=7730-1 The yellow cones 3943a: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3943a&idColor=3#T=C&C=3 This yellow cone 3943a appears in two sets. 3 used for the train 7730 and 2 used in 599-1. But many trains had the other version 3943b with axle hole: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=3943b&in=S This version is used in two sets. One used in 4982-1 and 2 used in 6954-1. Lego produced both versions since 1979. But there are some doubts on this. Sets in which 3943a appear are produced in 1979, 1980 and 1981 (msotly). This suggests that sometime about 1981-82, Lego replaces 3943a with 3943b. The train 7730 was produced from 1979-82. Then probably, some sets made in 1982 came with 3943b. About one third of the trains i have seen have the version 3943b. As the two versions are as rare as the other, I simply conclude that Lego released some of them with 3943b. It is not likely that so many private sellers lost all the three yellow cones 3943a and then bought or found the other version 3943b and replaced with them. Thus, if you bought this train in your childhood and still have it, could you please comment which version are your yellow cones? If you still have the box, could you check if it is D/F/NL or UK/F/I version? It its also helpful if you tell from what country the train was bought. For learning about different versions of box, see: If you could attach a photo of your train, box(the language part on the right side of the front box) and cone, it would be great and helpful. Also, a photo of the bottom of the motor, if you are sure that the red motor is not switched with another one. Reading the number on the bottom of the motor, we can see in what year it is produced. Here is mine where you can read 38 0 which means week 38 year 1980: This will help me to come up with more evidence to submit a change of inventory request. Regards Here I put some the trains on sale, now or before coming with cones 3943b: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202086086008?clk_rvr_id=1385696026058&rmvSB=true http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Rare-boite-Lego-TRAIN-7730-briques-neuves-jamais-jou%C3%A9/172901510590?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.it/itm/152813017599?ul_noapp=true http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Lego-Eisenbahn-12V-12-Volt-Dampflok-G%C3%BCterzug-7730-mit-BA-OVP-komplett/263014487777?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  2. I am so excited with Lego's news about their reselling the Taj Mahal, because there's always the possibility that this is just the start of something big, and we could be getting an affordable chance to buy classic sets that we missed out on, or don't want to pay the current online prices. I remember with the arrival of the internet how cool it was to go to places like Lugnet, and then to Ebay, and being shocked at how much trains had gone up in price, even just from 1980 to 2000. Then after everyone complained online about how they missed out on the Metroliner, it suddenly reappeared like a legendary phoenix. With the Club Car in tow! At the time, it made perfect sense bringing back the first 9v train while 9v was still going strong. 10 years seems to be the magic number for rereleases with Lego, as seen with the Legends line, and now Taj Mahal. So I was wondering, what if any trains do you think Lego could/should rerelease? Could they take old 12v and 9v sets and swap in Power Functions? What about the Train Shed, or Santa Fe Super Chief? Emerald Night? Are there any regular retail trains sold after 9v that people are clamoring for a return of, as we saw with the Metroliner almost 20 years ago? Is a train related rerelease even feasible with Lego today? I would love to hear what others think is possible / desired. Personally I wish I could buy more Santa Fe cars for regular retail price!
  3. As the title says really. Has anyone created anything like this? Would love to see them if so. Same goes for the other way round too. I've seen a nice long base 7710 carriage before on here. Look forward to seeing anything you've created along these lines!
  4. Hi all, Does anyone have experience/ knowledge of using another type of cabling for 12v layouts and accessories other than the official Lego stuff? I'm looking for a cheaper alternative for long stretches of cabling. Thank you very much! 😆
  5. Hi guys, im looking to build some 12v models in alternative colours. E.g. 7745 in all black or 7755. Looking at Bricklinking cheaper parts. Wondered if anyone had some pictures they may have of stuff they had done for some inspiration? Thanks in advance and I look forward to hopefully seeing some of your creations. 😃
  6. A few days ago, I made a decision. I've tried to build big houses, buildings and trains and have never been satisfied. I and new pieces and colors doesn't match and when I am collecting 12v trains and buildings and was a kid in the 80s it was actually a pretty easy decision: My mocs will look as they are taken from a LEGO catalogue from 1982-86. So, here is my first try. The brand new 7833 Shell terminal from 1984! It's still only build digitally, but I think I'm going to buy the pieces to build it in real, too! Any ideas and thoughts are welcome. Be mercyful :-) http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-2.jpg http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-3.jpg
  7. Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo
  8. Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
  9. Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
  10. 12 volt track modification

    Hi All , just signed in to this forum cause I was wondering about something .... I'm into the 12 volt train system again and was wondering about modified 12 volt track . Hs anyone done some modifiyng on tracks , switches ,etc. ? Here's some pics of my own creations untill now... A half straight track with original contacts a point prototype with same angle as 2 curved rails Let's see what you guys have !
  11. Hello! Going through my parent's attic over xmas I rediscovered my old 12v train set, which I'm now trying to restore and get working again. After cleaning up a bunch of contacts with WD40 the actual train and power brick work, which is nice. However the remote control for the signals seems to be completely jammed and neither button will actually move. Has anyone successfully repaired one of these? I can't even see how to take it apart without breaking it. Thanks
  12. W.I.P 7760 to pf

    Hi! This is my latest MOC. It's a pf 7760 that runs on pp3 (9v) battery with a custom adapter. Since i don't have the 7760 i built it with all kinds of colors (it is a prototype after all). Here is the pp3 battery. I wanted this loco to have the iconic 12v clicking , so i put a little metal tab between the motor and some bricks. Here it is in action with the custom clicking sound. The rear with the ir receiver. And here it is .
  13. Hello everyone, for those who do not know me, I'm a big fan of trains and especially Lego Train. I finally have a space to create a Layout finally worthy of the name. My approach comes a little more of the model in the sense that I like to see a train pass over another, to automate the network, make realistic through light signals, station stops, etc. ... I started this project in February 2016 in my basement where I made by myself, furniture and shelf for storing SET Lego but also to design the layout. I was already well advanced when an incident occurred: the flooding of the basement end in May 2016 .... Then in August, the discovery of a leak in the water supply of the house forced me to completely dismantle this first try of a Layout to access the water inlet pipe ..... I come back now in force therefore with a first experience, many tests on the possibility for our pretty trains to climb slopes (straight or curved) to optimize the best of my available space and create a nice layout ! ;-) Due to financial limits, this layout will be not made with 100% of Lego, I will use wood and homemade stickers, custom electronic to make it. Here are the first shots (or I should say the nth plan because with Bluebrick, we never stop to change those plans) to my future Layout (so different from the first that I had designed and unfinished) WMLTL - v5 - Level 0 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Corresponds to trainyard + walkway + a brief passage of the 12V track WMLTL - v5 - Level 1 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Ground level with his future main station WMLTL - v5 - Level 2 by LegoLow, sur Flickr First level of the "mountain" : secondary station and then, possibility to climb in the mountain or to go back to the main level WMLTL - v5 - Level 3 by LegoLow, sur Flickr WMLTL - v5 - Level 4 by LegoLow, sur Flickr WMLTL - v5 - Level 5 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Top of the mountain.... Finally a view (done quickly, I will improving later), global superimposed, giving the idea of what will be hidden, visible .... WMLTL Project - v5 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Following probably next week with the start of the implementation of Level 0. It's a big challenge for me because this project is made of mixing differents things : LEGO, electronics, electricity problematics, Priority management on a network, etc.... Hope you will find that interesting to !
  14. There's probably a couple of you who saw just the 1500km round-trip part in the "Shameful Confessions" thread. For those who don't know I'm from Canada. Tariffs are a pain here, and 12V lego is virtually non-existent anywhere in the Americas. If you spend 48 hours, you are permitted $800, so I managed to grab a few outer rails for my blue 12V stuff, a few cross overs and managed to snag a great deal on a pair of monorail points. Ever since seeing pictures on social media from a friend I've had the abandoned turnpike on my bucket-list. The key has been finding a legitimate reason to go there. An auction winning from just inside the Virginia border would finally be the catalyst - stated on E-bay local pickup only. After much back-and-forth between the sellers and myself, along with a friend's house that I stayed at - around the Pittsburgh area. We settled on a date, and then it was just me my car, my friends and 1500km on the road. (For those with a keen eye for violations, my car was in park while taking pictures in juristrictions where there are laws against that kind of thing. I also had some help in the car. It's about an hour an a half to the US border. I selected the "Rainbow Bridge" because it was the long weekend. The picture, and by far the clearest I've ever seen in my lifetime at that location, is the duty free store, just prior to hoping on the bring. It's usually more time efficient to cross at the Peace Bridge, but inbound visiting the US, it's usually the worst or near worst of the three options. In all I spent about 30 minutes in queue awaiting customs. It's a pretty spectacular view. This is the view just prior to entering Grand Island. There's not much on the island, other than a small them park of sorts, which looks very dated. There's a $1 toll to cross into the island. This view, you can see the Skylon Tower, Minolta and the Casino down by the Falls. Obviously the bridge to the island. I look some Panoramas, and eventually I'll get around to processing some of those. I love the blue on these bridges. I was just weirded out by these patterns, it's as if they wanted to prevent walking on grass at all costs. You can't really walk in a straight or perpendicular line at all, this is from the lookout, where the pic of the bridges was taken. Bridges leaving the island are more attractive. But man are they skinny!! Welcome to PA!! This was the 10 minutes of driving on the way out where it rained, not hard, just just got a little rain. PA is the northern border of where we can get this stuff and OMG!! That sweet, sweet nectar. I was so hungry but it was totally worth waiting for Pennsylvania for the Sweet Tea. I can't get this at home and every day without it I die a little inside.
  15. Recently I came across an interesting ad for some 12V odds 'n ends, and decided to travel 85km or so, to make a purchase for $50. The person who sold this appeared to be a student, I was planning on asking how this ended up in Canada, as I cannot find any proof that any of the 12V stuff was ever sold here, but with her being younger I kinda gave up, she seemed eager to have her money and close to door transaction over before I could realize that some of the stuff wasn't in the best of condition. Here's what I got: - 90% of a 721 train (this is the engine only variant, and all of the unique parts) with a working 12V motor, and original instructions to build the train (I was missing much of the black section where the driver would go at the back). - A bunch of other 1969 era original instructions. - 2 transformers (one of the two had broken plugs wedged in it, the other had the european plug end cut off (I think that they were powering this with a car battery or other source) - 7 12V track switches - 8 Remotes for the 12V track switches. - 2 Track power pickup (not sure of the technical name, but they power the tracks and go to the transformer). - Random lego bricks that have nothing to do with this stuff, but are old - One broken 12V motor with a pair of power pickups. - 63 Straight 12V power rails - 63 Curved 12V power rails - 1 level road cross over piece that someone decided should match the track and coloured blue with a crayon or marker - It looks horrible!! Everything (aside from the wires) is in decent shape considering it's about a half century old. Absolutely no blue outer rails, I happened to have some because I have a 182 kicking around that I had purchased mistakenly from a newspaper ad around 1992 or so - not knowing that there was even such a thing as blue-era trains (I was kind of confused and disappointed when I got to the door and saw the set, after being very excited over the phone about it at the time). So I was able to test the track and trains (I only have a full circle of blue curves). My first attempt was using my grey era 12V transformer, and then the Blue era one after using pliers and working the broken plugs out of the switch power area. I'm not sure if anyone else has tried this, but I didn't think that the switches worked as well using the grey era transformer, and the train was most definitely faster at top speed forwards and reverse using the Blue era transformer. I'm assuming that you were intended to put the switch remotes on the top of the Blue era transformer, not sure??? They look good up there & fit perfectly. Definitely a purchase which has me scratching my head. I probably would have paid much more if they were asking it for this. It's very interesting to go back in time and try and work with this stuff, feel blessed to have gotten this lot.
  16. Voltage Question

    Hello everyone. I'm new here and I have a question regarding the possible voltage for 9V Lego train motors. First of all, I'm from germany and 34 years old. I've played and build with Lego since I was 4. I loved the 12V trains back in the 80's and their advantages over newer systems. But the 12V system had a big disadvantage: the middle power tracks. I absolutely hated them because of the looks and that they bend up often so the trains got stuck. I love the 9V tracks and currently I run every train on 9V and use my 12V transformator for trainstation and town lights and for remote the railroad crossing. So I use 2 transformators, one 9V and one 12V. It would be nice to use only one of them. And that would be the 12V because the 9V is not strong enough to power the lights and has no seperate connection that is always at full power. So remote the railroad crossing is impossible too. But it would be possible for me to connect the 12V transformator to the 9V tracks. Now my question: Would a 9V train motor run at 12V? Or will it get too hot or even burn? I hope someone here can answer my question or has any other ideas. Thanx^^
  17. Government Warning: Lego Bricks were harmed in the making of this tutorial. Good evening! I recently converted my 7725 to Power Functions because I don't have a 7740 to convert to power functions. It just didn't look right on four wheels and I could not fit a technic mechanism and M motor in there... So I present the cutters guide to 6 wheel bogies. (If someone has already done this please let me know so that I can give them credit, I didn't turn up any results like this when doing a Google) 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Power functions 7725. by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Purists, please note, the lance was already broken by a careless child so I am recycling, not abusing a perfectly good piece (The 1.5 pin was just an innocent bystander. Sorry). The trick is to get the cut as close to the short end of the 1.5 pin as you can without compromising the structural integrity of the short end. You will know what I mean if you get it in the wrong spot. The effect is similar to the burning tyre rolling past Indiana Jones. Does anyone have a solution that does not involve a knife?
  18. I've recently picked up the 12v controller and a signal set, and intend to pick up some lamps too. I really like both the look and the way they are controlled. I also love the way it's all controlled from one central control unit. So here's my question: Has anybody either modified the innards of the 12v controller to drive 9v or modified 12v motors and controller to rail wires to run without the central rails? I'm keeping my mind pretty open at the moment, just looking for ideas that (with the minimum of modifying aging mechanisms) that would allow me to use any part of the 12v system on a more modernly powered layout. Worst case scenario, I'll just use the controller as a signalbox and nothing more, it's still pretty cool. :)
  19. Repair of broken 12v (4.5v) couplers

    As there is a thread on repairing 12v motors and one on couplers, I thought the old timers here might be interested in my technique for repairing 12v couplers. I'm sure this must have been tried before but I couldn't find any previous threads. I turned the drill bits with my fingers but a quality drill should do even better. I worked my way up to the correct diameter through three different bits to avoid stressing the plastic, then shaved off the resulting lip with a sharp knife. (Mandated Government Warning: Lego was harmed in the making of this post (but it was only technic) Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr
  20. Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axel to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the circlip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently prise the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
  21. Today I made a new 12V layout that exactly fits the space between furniture in my living room, using various building tricks to bring the track where I want. I will be using this track to test a dual-voltage JR700 Shinkansen, that can run seamlessly on either 12V or 9V tracks. It uses a 12V pickup brick that feeds into the 9V engine using electric plates (trick discussed in these forums): https://drive.google...RDdqazRZZzJ1ZGc
  22. Hi, I have a very special problem: For an exhibition (the day after tomorrow) I will use 12V-lights at my train station. I tried this function with a gray 12V transformator and the switch with the train crossing pattern: (set 5083). Everythings worked and I was happy. Right button turn the lights on, left button turn the lights off. Everything is fine. But: Now I need this remote Control switch to use the train crossing, but I had another set 5081 - remote control witch SIGNAL pattern. I opened (because it was sealed (ovp)) and I tried to use ist. But it doesn't works. I think, it isn't broken. I think the reason is to find into the different between these both switch. The signal one stayed "down", after I pressed the button, and when I press the other button (red or green), the first button comes up. The switch witch train crossing pattern works so: If I pressed any button, the button comes up immediately. Also the train crossing has 2x three holes and the backside, the signal switch has 1x five holes and 1x three holes. Could someone help me to understand the function. And: Why I couldn't connect normal light bricks with the signal switch. Does set 5080 works (Remote control for switch). Or does the switch in set 7862 works? Please help me. Michael
  23. Hey guys I plan on buying vintage 9v and 12v trains the only catch is that I am very picky on price, if you have a train you would like to sell please comment or pm me with a price and country along with shipping price to the U.S. Main Sets I am looking for include but are not limited to: 12v Sets: 7725 7730 7735 7745 9v Sets: 4559 4565 4551 4512 4511 I prefer to buy the 12v sets first and I only have limited budget so I will not be buying all of these! Thank you so much -RailCo
  24. Before coming up with the final design for my I had a few other drafts, most of which I had to abandon because they were just a bit too big to fit my room. I recently stumbled upon these and I thought I'd post them here in case someone would be interested in trying them out. Like the final layout, they all have 3 independent interchangeable tracks. https://drive.google...Z3VOaUgwVTcwaWs https://drive.google...R1R6czlrVjV1dkE https://drive.google...TUFqZ1VFSDVVZlU https://drive.google...QmxZY0hBbGxDVXM
  25. Good morning, Quick question . . . and I have looked through the forum for answers and come up empty handed thus far, there's lots of DIY stuff, but I'm working on a theory and I've found the parts that I think that I need on bricklink. I have a working theory and just want confirmation. If I have . . . . .the two rails with the missing triangle, a regular remote control like 7863 would I be able to control trains stop & go or no. I've never had a 7860 set, and I still mean to get one. But does the remote work the same way as others do?? Then you add the whole red light/green light thing and that only gives you the visual in terms of if the train can go or not? If I had one of these sets I'd just do all of this experimenting on my own. While I'm asking stupid questions. The 7864 set (the actual Transformer), if you assemble the whole technic top assembly and remove the dial, does that thing actually stay together well or does it disintegrate the second that you try to use it?? Third question. If you disassemble a PF cord at one end and plug it into a 12V track while it's already plugged into the 12V transformer and then bridge the positive and negative sides of the track, is it possible to create a time portal that will take me back to 1985?? Thanks in advance.