Search the Community
Showing results for tags '12v'.
Found 101 results
-
-Mini.thumb.jpg.03594ed3626ab4a4b625a32af4d03d5f.jpg)
A Layout in Three Eras - 4.5v, 9v and 12v . Onto the City 12v Loop
Andy Glascott posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
The Backstory: For years I've wanted to be able to display my 12v collection at shows/exhibitions/libraries or wherever, but the wiring is a challenge - I reckon on my last full layout there was 250 to 300 feet (75-90 metres) of the stuff, which on a static layout is one thing, but one built in modules for transport is a challenge. Three or four months ago I came up with a solution (more on that below) and the dreaming started. After much playing in Bluebrick, and nostalgic posts appearing here about older era trains, I settled on a plan. I still had a bunch of my old blue track from the 4.5v era, but no motors. Off we go to Bricklink then! The Layout So, here's the plan. Ten years ago I had a small portable layout on 4 modules, each 3x5 baseplates, and over the years have simply added more of these. Following my Bricklink spree, I now have 2 working 4.5v motors, so rebuilt the loco from set 183 and I have the loco from 7720 in progress. These 2 will feature on the 4.5v loop below, which is 3 of those modules. Next to the 4.5v loop will be the showpiece, the main 12v loops. 12v Lower by andyglascott, on Flickr And on the right of the layout will be the 9v loops. Unlike the other 2 eras, I will have 9v track left over, so this is likely to be expanded in due course, particularly as @michaelgale releases motors, power supply etc. 9v Loops by andyglascott, on Flickr Lastly, there will be another 12v loop, elevated, which will run across the back of all three eras. 12v Upper by andyglascott, on Flickr Putting all of those together looks like this (the white baseplates are roughly where the mountains, tunnels etc will be for the elevated sections. The green and grey sections are simply so I could keep track of where the 3x5 modules were to try and avoid having curves/points on more than one module. When it all comes together, in most likely a couple of years, I'll be able to run 6 trains at a time. Whole Layout by andyglascott, on Flickr The Beginning After all the planning, and clearing away of my last (incomplete) layout, I've finally started building the first module, part of the 4.5v loop. I decided to start here as this will be the quickest era to build, and to a large extent, each era can also be displayed as a stand-alone smaller layout. These three modules will be countryside/farmland, and the trains will reflect the farming side of it when they get built. Module 01 Pic 02 by andyglascott, on Flickr The 12v Wiring The solution that I've come up with is fairly simple, but does involve taking a drill to some baseplates.... At each of the 12v points or signals I'll drill a small hole through the baseplate and the wood for each module, thread the wire through and attach either the original Lego plugs or a quick connect/release plug/connector so that when the layout is set up I'll use already measured lengths of wire to go from that point to the control panels, which will be on their own module. This is going to be a heck of a journey, and build, I'll post updates from time to time, particularly at landmark moments such as completing an "era". I always said, growing up, I was keeping my Lego for my kids. It was really only an excuse, and I'm really glad I didn't sell my old blue track even though I didn't, for years, think I'd use it. Sadly my original 4.5v motors, battery boxes, lights and even signals are long gone, but I was only 7 or 8 when I got 7720.... -
Hello EB, Recently I got a few more vintage train sets, and in particular I'm quite excited about 7727 and 7815. These are rare ones from 1983, and I got them both boxed! Check out the reviews below.
-
Variations of instructions for set 7865 - please check your copy
Reza posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
So far, I have found 5 variations of instructions for set 7865, based on the year of release and languages. They are (1) @1980 LEGO System A/S EU II 108581 D/F/NL (2) @1980 LEGO Group A/S EU II 113081 D/F/NL (3) @1981 LEGO Group A/S EU I 113080 DK/N/S/SF (4) @1981 LEGO Group A/S EU II 113081 D/F/NL (5) @1981 LEGO Group A/S EU III 113079 UK/I/F Please kindly check your own copy so that we can complete this list. They will be added to Bricklink. If you want to see photos and learn more about these variations, continue to read: Let's look at differences between the three D/F/NL variations (beside the text given above): * The difference (1) and (2): a) On the later version, two red arrows are drawn on one image of motor showing how the middle wheels can be assembled on the motor. b) On the back side, there is a table showing how many of which track and sleepers are needed to build four different layouts A, B, C and D. * The difference (2) and (4): None! So I guess the 1980's version was printed in 1980 and then, TLG gave it a new year of release, matching the other two variations of 1981 (UK/I/F and DK/N/S/SF). I know 12v trains were sold in Denmark, Sweden,... since 1980 so I assume there should be a 1980 DK/N/S/SF version. I guess there is no 1980 UK/I/F version because 12v trains were not sold in UK, Italy or France in 1980. Future projects: instructions 7864 (and perhaps 7861). More photos: -
Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
-
I need to re-introduce myself again I guess. Mine name is Jacob and born in 1978. I love 12v trains, but 9v trains which are nice are also be found in mine layout. Mine last layout was full and a great oppertunity came to move to a bigger house. Mine demand was simple, the attic must be bigger and the heating installation must be by the stairs (which is common in Holland to have that thing at attic). The house itself was ok, only attic needs to rebuild. I've removed everything what not belonged to structure of house itself to maximaze to area for the trains. It took me almost 1 year for the first legotrack could be laid down. I need to work too :P . Now we are more than half year building and this is result sofar. I made a few movies at YouTube. Spoken movies are about 15min and a few shorter ones were only the trains are running, so you can hear the sound of running 12v trains. Movies of PandaCity of Bricks Offocurse a few pictures of mine layout: The heart of the layout, the controlpanel. A laptop is smaller, but I want to use the orginal switches and original parts that Lego has made. The proud of mine layout and where the layout is build around it, the train-engineshed 10027 x2 and made it higer so the 7740 can pass without modification. The 7740 is based on the Baureihe class 103 and always wanted the model of it. After 40 years some-one made a moc and that has changed many times till one came which fits beautifully side by side the set 7740. I made one in the colors of 7740 and one in darkred/tan what is the color of the Baureihe class 103, which is in livingroom in showcase :P . Never realized it, but the Emerald Night is also a jewel in any lego train layout. It is based at the Flying Scottmann, so I was so free to made it more looking as Flying Scotmann, what a red buffer can do with the looks. Also made the steamengine smaller to 8 studs, which is more pratical with running at 12v. Grey connecting rods for better visability when moving. An 2d tender for a 2d 12v motor for more pulling power. And build 2 extra wagons, diner- and sleepwagon. an 4th will build also, cargowagon. Problem I need to order parts everywhere to build what I want. If bricklink didn't excist, this as not possible. This is a few what I have done sofar. Movies tells more than I can write here. Hope you like it, or maybe not. Have a nice day and enjoy building wit lego.
-
Hello. I would like to introduce you to my updated collection [MOD] 12v Train Collection Update by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr With the release of the Collector's Edition Hogwarts Express #76405, I realized could get the new type red train doors (part number %43967, %42819) in new condition and cheaper than old ones. So I decided to make another #7820. The one I made this time is pictured on the right. [MOD] 12v Train Collection Update by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The interior has also been changed this time. Two yellow bicycles used by postal workers for delivery are loaded. These were also revived in last year's City sets and became available cheaply. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr By the way, the interior of the left one, which I mentioned in the previous post, is like this. [MOD] 12v Train Collection Update by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Also, I didn't have a station that matched the gray era, so I extended the #7745 station by 24 studs and installed 2 lamp posts. I love that 80's electrical cables are easy to adjust and distribute. The wiring is hidden under the platform. Personally, I like this smaller station than the big stations #7822 and #7824. I take two videos with these new collections. I placed the camera in front of the s-shaped curve to capture the movement of the wheels of the crocodile engine. I’m very satisfied with the way these two #7820 are running The lamp post at the station also looks great in a dimly lit room. Thank you for reading to the end.
-
I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : Step 4. Take out the inner part : Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb
-
I've been looking for a suitable replacement 12v DC motor for the Grey Era train motors since I opened 2 of mine and found that both had broken commutators, and haven't found anything so far. However, today I had an idea. Has anyone opened up one of the 12v motors from the Blue Era? Those were also manufactured by Buhler and ran on the same voltage, and I was thinking there might be a possibility that they could be used to replace the ones in the 80s motors. I may try this myself if I can get my hands on one of those motors. Thoughts? Or, if anyone has opened this type of motor, does it look like it could be swapped?
-
Hello ! I present you my Classic Town and 12V diorama of 6.80mx1.50m, with nearly 30m of 12V track installed, presented to the public at the exhibition in Parmain (north of Paris, France) on October 8 and 9, 2022. The assembly time was very long, and I took 16 hours in all from the installation of the tables to the working of the 12V loop without any operation on my part. I realized that in spite of all the energy I could put, I have already reached the end of what I can do in terms of size in such a short time, all by myself, with a method requiring me to partially dismantle my sets for transport. Having no space at home, I started from a plan elaborated from Bluebrick software, but I came up to a limitation of the software: it does not manage at all the complex wiring of a 12V layout. I went back to paper to plan the stop zones and to cut the circuit in 4 sectors to better distribute the power of the transformers and avoid slowdowns because my cars are quite heavy (I have a lot of MOCs). This diorama represents Lego Town, a small industrial town 30 km north of Paris. For the record, the railroad came to Lego Town quite early, around 1860, and the industry started to prosper in a moderate way. The Lion d'Or Hotel Restaurant on the road to the castle is a testament to that time, and the factory owner's house still stands in front of the station. The goods station and the Sernam hall, a key place for the transport of goods in the city. Lego Town has gone from a village to a small town, the medieval downtown area has been well preserved. The SNCF depot is only used to park trains. Steam locomotives remain to build a railway museum in a future diorama. The gas factory closed in the 60's and the gasometer is abandoned. The urban sprawl of the 60s and 70s, many houses were built around the old center. A modern district has been built on the castle hill to accommodate the workers who commute to Paris. The SNCF VB2N rolling stock was put into circulation for the great comfort of commuters. The highway bridge also allows minifigures to avoid the level crossing and the often congested downtown area of Lego Town. Lately, in 1980, the station was rebuilt on a functional and very modern building, allowing cars to park easily. It still watches the Paris-Ruhr Trans Europ Express to Germany (Molière and Parsifal) passing by, pulled by the SNCF CC40100. The castle was restored in the 70's and is used as a municipal museum where many historical reenactments are organized. The goal for next year is to completely Frenchify the diorama by changing the Dutch stickers of the promotional sets. Evans
-
Hello. This week I received the another 12v train set that purchased at eBay. My collection has grown a lot in these year and half, so I'd like to share it all in this post [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr It all started with this #7865 I bought at BrickLink to build this steam locomotive. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr This little tank engine is my first 12v train MOC. Coloring is based on the blue locomotive in the Torben Plagporg's prototype. (in the photo with large scale trains on the bottom row, it was in the upper left) Inspired by the #7727 and #7730 locomotives, I mixed the two together. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr BR Class 08 MOC made with the second motor I got. 12v system with easy rod installation was perfect for this popular diesel shunter. This build is an entry for the Brick Train Awards 2022. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr There is a connecter behind these two MOCs. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The connector work together #7821 with 9v motor. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr When I didn't have 12v tracks, I saw @AlmightyArjen's video (https://youtu.be/JjK31O5h1Hc) and learned that 12v motor could run on the 9v track already had. Luckily I have a broken 9v motor so decided to take it out and use it as a power supply. I seldom run it on 9v track now, but I'm keeping it in case I ever use it to power for lights etc. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr This electronic locomotive is based on @HoMa's build. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Made with an old type 12v motor. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr I already posted about this Köf Ⅱ ([MOC] LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ - LEGO Train Tech - Eurobricks Forums) using 12v technic motor, so check it out here. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Each of these small locomotives pulls a set or modified wagons. My favorite is the three #7816 reproduced using shell printed bricks [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr There is a post about this (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/192393-moc-12v-steam-locomotive/) as well as Köf Ⅱ. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr I recently built two carriages for this locomotive based on @HoMa's Silberlinge. BR 23 which was used as reference for making this MOC, was also modified as Wendezüge after the end of 60's, and actually pulled Silberlinge. I thought these carriages would suit it well. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The one with yellow line is 1st class and there are private compartments. In the real, there are 2nd class seats in same car but there is no space, so I divided them. LEGO Eisenbahnwelt written by Holger Matthes by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Instructions for Silberlinge with a steering post can be found in the LEGO Eisenbahnwelt released in November 2022. I made by looking at this book, but the pearl light gray grill bricks and old dark gray curve slopes are very expensive, so I replaced it with the light gray and dark bluish gray respectively. [MOC] 12v Crocodile Engine by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr There is a post about this. (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/192590-moc-12v-crocodile-engine/) I want to build dark green SBB carriages for this engine someday. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Below is a collection of sets. However, I don't own most of original sets, and in many cases I bought parts from BrickLink and build them from scratch. Depending on the availability of parts, I changing the assembly method and enjoying modifying it, so there are many differences from original set. In #7725, I've added a seat the space behind the weight on the first car. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr And gangway connection for all cars. Also, by making the middle wheel of the dummy motor slidable using 2×4 tile it will run more smoothly. These modifications apply to all my builds. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr #7740 is my most favorite 12v train set. I thought it would be difficult to get the red weights in good condition, so I put black one inside the engine. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Dining car already exists in #7745, so I wanted to make something different. That's why I installed the bar counter shown in the picture. Manager making cocktails The only secret using yellowed macaronis in place that can't be seen from outside. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr #7745 is the 12v train set that arrived this week as mentioned at the beginning. This high speed train from Germany is in very good condition and runs well. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The kitchen of the dining car has been remodeled. I felt that the 2×4 light gray brick in the original set weren't enough. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Lined up the old and new TGV. You can see the evolution of parts in 28 years. Thalys PBA is a PF train MOC with a modified coloring of #10233 and 2 studs longer base. However, I think the actual model is Sud-Est, not Thalys. Very well done for 80's build with no orange parts and limited variety. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr #7755 is a diesel locomotive of shape commonly found in Europe. I changed the step from normal plate to modified plate with bar. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Black weights are installed inside for the same reason as #7740 above. Engineer can no longer stand up, so I put a gray seat instead. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr In #7820, I changed the 6×6 slopes of the roof because some original 3×4 slopes are yellowed, sparse and doesn't look good. [MOC/MOD] 12v Train Collection by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The luggage inside has changed greatly from two pallets and yellow desk. There are many letters in the yellow box. (maybe carrying BrickLink orders... ) I'd like at least one more #7820. That's all for my 12v train collection. I also have two-lap of oval tracks and #7856 to 59, two each of #7860 and #7864. It's been a very long post, but thank you for reading to the end.
-
Hello. I'd like to introduce my latest 12v train MOC. [MOC] 12v Crocodile Engine by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Crocodile engine based on SBB Ce 6/8. It is built mainly in reddish brown and dark bluish gray. Using these colors because some parts were not available in the old colors. (However, light gray is the original ) [MOC] 12v Crocodile Engine by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The chassis reproduces the main model of Hobby Train set #10183. Two motors are used to move either the front or rear connecting rod. It has plenty of traction even without weights. [MOC] 12v Crocodile Engine by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The roof can be easily removed to allow access to the engineer. [MOC] 12v Crocodile Engine by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Unfortunately, brown train doors are doesn't exist, so I had to find an alternative. So I assembled most of the sides horizontally and used the jumper plate grooves to make the door. They are all fixed and cannot be opened The center mounted engine is a copy from #7745. This is my Twitter account that I post in Japanese, you can see the video in action from here. Thank you for reading to the end.
-
Hello. After collecting parts and making a copy of #7740, I wanted a red and black large locomotive like #7750. However, the original set was very expensive for me as a student, I couldn't afford it. So I decided to make a new MOC. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr This steam locomotive was inspired by the legendary Train Idea Book #7777 and Deutsche Bahn's BR 23. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr I got these red train pieces to make this MOC. As you know, the red train motor is the most expensive part. The middle wheels are also expensive, so in order to reduce the cost, installed the motor on the front instead of on the tender. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Luckily I was able to put weight inside the boiler (blue squares in the image) so it runs powerfully with good traction. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Before I got the original 29mm wheels (4180c05) I used BBB middles instead. In this previous version, the structure of the trailing wheel was bad and I decided to replace it to slow down on curves. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Inside the cab is very simple. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Gray era's bogie pin is 7mm and 2mm longer than the current one, so it enable to place a tile and fix it to the technic plate. This allows you to put the motor on the leading wheel. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The reason the second pin is behind the original is to avoid hitting the signal post on the switch track as shown in the image. [MOC] 12v Steam Locomotive by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The tender has round plate coal. Thank you for reading to the end.
-
Hello. This is my first post, so let me tell you about my story. When I was elementary school, fascinated 12v trains by watching nickname2002's #7740 speed build video. However, as you know they're not sold in Asia (including Japan where I live), so it was very difficult to get them. I've been wanted them over 10 years, so last year finally started collecting parts from BrickLink and eBay to copying sets and making MOCs. LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr This LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ is the latest MOC. Original locomotive used from 1987 to 2002 at LEGO GmbH in Hohenwestedt, Germany. This is the first 8 studs wide train I made. LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr This is an updated build of the rendering image I entered in Brick Train Awards 2022. LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr I watched a video of the 12v Crocodile MOC by @HoMa and impressed with it running with 70's pickups and technic motors. I inspired by it, wanted build a locomotive using same motor. This is what it turned out to be, and lucky it was cheaper than normal pack motor. When I making a 12v train MOC, my concept is to incorporate the latest parts and expand the range of expression while creating a style that is appropriate for the “gray era”. So I use parts from wide range of eras, from 70's printed bricks to modern brackets. This shows the high compatibility of LEGO bricks. The wheels are also appear from the 2006 “RC era” with technic axle hole, but the steps and cab are very low, so they works well without spoiling the visual. But it has 2 drawbacks. First, due to low power of the motor, it's the limit to pull 2 wagons. (couldn't down gear for lack of space!) Second, there is no place for minifigure in the cab due to the wiring from pickups. (so I put only torso and head in the cab) LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr Lastly, I built 2 #7823 container wagon copies and LEGO containers. I don't think I've actually pulled these wagons, but they looks great and I love them. LEGO Group's Köf Ⅱ by Kento Tanaka, on Flickr The container probably holds a full load of LEGO sets… Thank you for reading to the end.
-
I present my 12v recreation of the Coras Iompar Eireann (old name for Irish Rail) E428 diesel shunter. The E class (also called 421 class) was built in the Inchicore Works in the early 1960s and were retired in the early 1980s. This particular engine is located at a station in private ownership not far from where I live. The model is 6 wide and I tried to keep it as true to the 12v era as possible, including the full size train doors, no snots and all parts available in the 1980s up to the very early 1990s. (The orange colour arrived in 1993. I did try red originally but it need the orange for the iconic CIE colour scheme.) here is the photo I took of the original the shunter ran in both directions I added some engine detail... the 1 weight brick included is behind the first door so the grey brick is hiding it and the technic brick is on top of it. That's a technic cylinder at the back. i added some cab detail (based on some pictures I found online that I don't have a link to any more It runs well on my 12v R40 curves and switches. (No video yet as I had to move my layout) The front wheel is fixed and the motor pivots the back section also pivots to help keep the carriages connect through the switches. The carriage was also built to complete the display as per the real thing. Green train windows don't exist so I just used regular 1 x 4 x 3 windows and kept it 28 studs long. Comments and suggestions welcome!
-
Hello all, A couple days back I posted a review on my YT channel about the 7740. I'm sure many of you know that set- it's a very iconic train, right up there with the Metroliner and Super Chief. I wanted to share it here for anyone looking for new information on it, or if you have no idea what the 7740 is and want to learn a little about the 12v system and its most iconic train. Hopefully this video contains valuable knowledge for you!
-
Mine layout ain't what you can call small anymore, but I have to keep the 12v track clean. Otherwise it won't run badly or not. I made a short 5 min video how I clean and keep it clean the 12v track. Cleaning 12v track
-
Hello EB, I don't think I have seen much information on the internet about this, so I thought I'd make a video (and share it here). Often when you're running 12v trains, metal rails and motor contacts become dirty with "black dust"- dust that settles on the rails and then is burned from the friction between the metal of the motor contacts and the metal of the rails. I am sure that other experienced 12v train fans out there know this and have your own way of cleaning the rails. I made a tutorial on how to clean rails and contacts, with easy to acquire materials- I use rubbing alcohol on a rag. Hopefully this video will help some of you, now and in the future, who are having difficulty with maintaining your 12v components!
-
I've made another 12v layout video, and this one includes an inner and outer loop, electrically connected through the points. The last clip took a couple of tries to film, since I had to do some quick point work and the trains collided in the first takes. These posts have been getting a lot of nice comments which means a lot to me as a content creator, and I'm glad people are enjoying my videos! I also have an extra clips video and a behind the scenes video, which I'll post links to in this thread as they release. Enjoy Layout 7!
-
[MOC] Lego DB BR80 12v - in Torben Plagborg style (8-wide)
Paperinik77pk posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hi all, since I read the very, very interesting thread about Torben Plagborg creations, I've been trying some new designs (some are just sketches, just to understand how things could work). Now, in this nice thread some nice 12v creations can be seen - but one captured my interest more than others. It's a little blue steamer with a black 12v motor. It seems pretty big, so I'd say it was an 8-wide experiment. In general, all the top shelves are very interesting. Starting from that little steamer, I began to think about a 12v locomotive in 8-wide. So I started designing another small steamer (I'd say a well known prototype): the great Deutsche Bundesbahn BR-80. 8-wide is not a common scale for me - I only tried it two times in my whole life, so it was a trial and error process. I tried to use parts that could have been available in the last 80s /first 90s - during the Phase II of the Gray Era and the advent of 9v era. And here it is...it recalls me a "fat" 7727/7730, with a touch of 7810... 8-wide gives some possibility also to work with odd number of studs (boiler is 5 studs wide instead of the classic 4-wide used in standard 12v steamers). I kept the standard cylinders, the ladders, rods, red buffers and magnets, which fit nicely an keep the 12v feeling alive. I used Some SNOT for the doors, using headlight bricks. Everything was already experimented at the time (e.g. the B-model wagon with horizontal sliding doors in 7735 instructions). Right side is quite symmetrical to the left one, apart some details. 12v motor looks nice, now that the body is correctly larger. Weights can sit on top of the motor - but the model could already be sufficiently heavy to have some decent traction and pulling power. I think adding lights won't be a problem nowadays, but for sure at the time (80s/90s) it could have been an additional challenge ! But...there are some issues that must be noted: The buffers overhang is quite...massive - and this SURELY will create problems with 12v switches, since the buffers will collide with the switching electric mechanism. Coupling wagons on R40 curves could be impossible...since this BR80 is longer than any other 12v locomotive or wagon not based on bogies chassis. Weight of a complete train could be excessive for the poor 12v motors. I think it has been a very fun experiment, a real "12v+" MOC...but being realistic - in my opinion it's too limited by the motor, wheels size...and 12v track geometry itself . Maybe, with 3d printed 12v wheels and a PF-based motor it could work on PF flexible track - but it would then loose 90% of its "vintage" appeal. I'd classify it as "Virtual Shelf Queen" ! Ciao! Davide -
Of course, I've made another 12v layout... This one includes a good-sized switchyard with 2 signals and a decoupler, which I quite enjoyed using. The 12v remotely operated accessories really are something else for shunting! I also have 7810 upgraded with a black motor functioning as another freight engine. Let me know if there's anything you'd like to see in future videos, I am always happy to hear ideas for new content. In the meantime, I have a lot of videos racked up which I'll be releasing routinely for a bit (every 3 days, US Eastern time 9:00 AM). Next will be extra clips of this layout, releasing tomorrow! I will link it here as well, when it releases. Enjoy the video!
-
Hello all, I'm starting a series on YouTube about how to enter the wonderful electric world of 12v Lego trains, and I thought I'd share it here for those of you who may have heard of this line but never learned much. In my opinion, this is the Golden Age of Lego trains and something that won't return in the foreseeable future- the remotely operated points, signals, plus other accessories and the train designs are uniquely fantastic. It's pretty inaccessable to those of us in the United States, and I know I would have really appreciated a guide when I started my journey nearly 2 years ago- so I'm trying to provide a comprehensive starter guide if you are just getting into 12v trains. This is one of the only videos out there to serve this purpose. The first part is already published and is about the different core components of a layout- and, it includes a section regarding voltage converters (aka "step up and down transformers") for those of us in the US, because we need to create European outlets to plug the 12v transformer into. I'm editing the second part right now, which will be an overview of the 9 train sets and which to purchase if you have no prior experience/knowledge, and I will reply to this post with the second part when it's published. I hope you all enjoy, and learn something new if you're just starting 12v! -Reker1000000
-
Has anyone figured out how to integrate the 2x6x2 black weight bricks into 7810 (with 12v motor installed)- and this is the important part- without altering the original stickered assemblies and without removing the stickers? I ordered the set but don't have it yet, and am planning to put 7865 into it once it arrives.
-
12v trains in alternative colours - looking for some inspiration
exstatik posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hi guys, im looking to build some 12v models in alternative colours. E.g. 7745 in all black or 7755. Looking at Bricklinking cheaper parts. Wondered if anyone had some pictures they may have of stuff they had done for some inspiration? Thanks in advance and I look forward to hopefully seeing some of your creations. ? -
Well, it finally happened... I never saw one for sale until now, but on BrickLink there is a seller with a MISB 7750 listed for 9,000 euros (about $9,500). Just posting this here because I thought it might interest some of the other 12v fans out there! This is a very very rare occurrance. Edit: Also realized there's a sealed 7755 (different seller) which went up for sale since yesterday as well...
-
Hello everyone, My previous layout video got a lot of positive feedback here so I thought I'd post the newest one! Here it is. This is my largest layout yet, including 5 electric points, 3 signals, 1 decoupler, and 1 level crossing in addition to other supplemental sets and 3 train sets (7730, 7745, 7750). I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, and it even includes a night section that has the 7745 with lights in it. I hope you enjoy!
