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Found 52 results

  1. For all the C+ nerds out there, here is a quick demo for using the PoweredUp remote directly with the Control+ Technic Hub using PyBricks. This is the code I'm running on my motorised 42110 Land Rover but can be used with any model using 2 drive motors and 1 steering motor like the 42099 4X4 X-treme Off-Roader set. The code has two control modes: Bang Bang mode simply acts as an on/off controller similer to how the PowerFunctions remote worked in that it turns the drive motors on while the button is pressed and then turns them off when button is released, The steering motor also goes to full lock while the button is pressed and returns to centre when released. Precision Mode acts as a speed controller for the drive motors and provides 10 speed steps in either direction and increments to steering motor by 10° on each button press to give 8 angle steps. The red stop buttons act as emergency stop buttons and the green centre button is the control mode select. I have published the code to my Github account should you wish to download it and try it for yourself. Please make sure you configure the "User Definable Setting" and the " Initialize Motors" sections to suit your needs before running the code. This code is released under the MIT licence, so feel free to download, use, edit and share this code under the terms of the MIT licence, full licence details included in the repo. You can download the code here:
  2. This is R.O.R.S.H.A.H Robot Of Remote Speech Human-connection And Handshake EXPLANING THE IDEA Well. this is not just another MOC which sole purpose is to collect dust on a shelf. No. This one has a real purpose and it is been in use in my family for quite a while now. As you all very well know, there are all this pandemic thing around the globe. And because of it a lot of people lockdown-ed in different countries and not able to travel to meet their relatives and friends even on holidays. So, to solve this problem at least a bit, a have created this little one. It is not actually a robot, but wheeled platform with attach point for tablet. Idea itself is not anything new, as example, you may know BUDDY the Emotional Robot by French company Blue Frog Robotics, model of which I once have made. Point is that actual robots are complicated (include more than just that function), not close as cheap as even big lego technic sets, rarely customizable and not available on market or can be purchased by only very big hospitals with political connection or smth like that. Lego on the other hand is affordable (mostly) and easy to use. So, why not to use it instead! WHAT YOU WILL NEED To build yourself such a Robot you will need: -At least two motors for each wheel -Optional third motor for tilting tablet -Optional fourth motor for extra function -SmartHub -Two wheels (use may use whichever you want, but narrow ones are better choice) -A bunch of technic parts to build the chassis -Smartphone to control the robot -Tablet or second smartphone for videocall HOW TO USE IT The idea is simple, imagine, that you have a family member or friend who has stucked in other city or country. But you want him to be present on family gathering, usually you would connect with him via videocall, which is good,but boring - as he will be present only as picture on the screen. Why not to place tablet with opened videocall on a wheeled platform and give the person on the screen an ability to control this platform. Such he will have some kind of a free will of movement around your table or floor. This is a purpose of such robots - and of this one too. After you've built your own RORSHAH - you should set an interface to control it in app that you prefer to use - my app of choice is ControlZ Then you should share the screen of your phone with the person you want to use the robot. (I recommend using Parsec - as it is free) - make sure to share the screen in app that allows to control scren via sharing. After this you make a videocall and place tablet with active call on your robot - and voi là - your friend can see you,talk to you,drive around your room,look around and even shake your hand! Here is the video,demonstrating RORSHAH in use: Thanks for watching! P.S. What do you think? As for me - this is really useful invention which really enhances connection between people divided by borders.
  3. I know there is a lot of buzz about Chineese clones nowadays, but this is not a clonning brand and the product is very different from BuWizz, only sharing its form factor with it. I have discussed it with @Jim and he gave me permission to make this topic. Please refrain from meaningless post that you hate anything from China and that you wouldn't buy this. Thank you I have stumbled across a very interesting piece of hardware recenty - rechargable battery with four motor outputs AND remote controller - CADA remote control. The most interesting feature is indeed dedicated controller, unlike buwizz/sbrick there is no need for smart phone. I guess video (taken by František Hajdekr) is better than words: I can only say FINALLY, the need for smart phone is what makes buwizz/sbrick unusable for me, I just want plain controller, ready in 1 second and recharchable battery. The biggest question is of course what kind of hardware is inside the BB. The only info is that the battery inside is Li-ion, no info about capacity. I'm also very interested in motor controlling chip. I don't expect it will be comparable in power with BuWizz, I expect it to be better verision of LEGO Li-pol battery. So if there is anyone here who already purchased it and is willing to open it to give us some details, I would appreciate it.
  4. Hello My first post here. Found some posts regarding the comparison of Powered Up (PU) and Power Functions (PF), but it was rather related to Technic. Couldn't find any similar for trains. So I am considering to buy 60198 Lego Cargo Train which is powered by Powered Up. However, I read here about PU system that it is inferior to PF system, as considering it in LEGO Technic. So how it is in the Trains department? As far as I see: PF for trains has remote IR intutitive controller with two knobs; for A channel and B channel with max. 8 trains to control (with 4 controllers). Additionally battery box and seperated IR recevier is needed. PU has bluetooth remote controller, so clunky smartphone control can be omitted? But is PU remote controller in any point inferior to older PF controller? PU battery box has embedd bt receiver so less space is needed inside the locomotive, so it seems its better (less flexible though?) Coming back to 60198 buying consideration; I saw some offers of used PF systems for trains (separated or with a locomotive), but they are quite pricey: 55 EU for control set, and 100EU with control+locomotive (from 60052 or 7939 set). So is it better to buy this new set with PU or invest into older used (but better?) PF sets? Kind regards
  5. Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
  6. The circuit cube bluetooth kit with it's tiny motors keeps spreading within the AFOL train community (e.g. see this review or this wonderful model). I see two drawbacks with the current version of the official app: only one module can be connected it needs some kind of (expensive) smart device So I asked Tenka (the manufacturer of these kits) for details about the protocol. They kindly shared the documentation and so I started implementing a "bluetooth hub". Using the information from the legoino project my program connects to one LEGO Powered Up remote and up to two circuit cube modules. It runs on a tiny Computer ("M5 Atom") which measures 3x3 studs. So you still need an additional device, but this is tiny and inexpensive and can be placed somewhere on the layout - or even built into the trains. In the videos this is the small grey box connected to the USB power supply. In one mode you can control the official kit: as long as the buttons of the remote are pressed the motors spin with the maximum velocity: The other mode is useful for trains: when a button is pressed the velocities of all motors connected to the corresponding module are increased/decreased: This is currently a "proof-of-concept" - the source code is available in github but using it will require some (basic) knowledge about programming Arduino-like devices.
  7. Hi,I thought about making an App for controlling Lego Power Functions 1.0(not PU). And now I am done with programming this app, without any programming knowledge. In the next updates I am going to make a PU remote too, so you can combine different Lego Sets and I want to make a Mini Jack IR Blaster Support for smartphones, that hadn t an IR blaster built in. Right now the App is only for devices with built in IR blaster. I know there was an App before for controlling Lego Power Functions, but this app had some features that weren t pretty good. This is also one of the reasons why I made this kind of App. Please open the Play Store Link on your smartphone.Link for the App:
  8. For long, I've wanted a small strong mini Lego Technic motor, smaller than an M-motor. As I recently learnt how to draw Lego parts and had the opportunity to use 3D printed nylon (using laser sintering) , I decided to try a small motor as well. As the PU motor stuff is getting big and heavy, this is my response: a small easy-mountable motor with a case of only 5 by 2 by 2 studs. 70% of the motors in Lego Technic models don't have to be large. Only the mount of this tiny motor is 2x3 studs. The mount is tailor made for Technic applications: if you build often with M-motors you will know that an M-motor always must be connected to a 1L beam to ensure that the gears won't slip and to mount the M motor securely. The mount design of this new motor eliminates the need for the beam, so that's one stud saved already. Because the motor is only 2 studs wide, 3 mini motors can be in the space of 2 M-motors. Also, 3 mini motors take up the space of one XL motor.. The exterior design is derived from a PF M-motor, because I like the design and want to keep using the PF looks. This is still a work in progress as I need to mount a 9V connector and insert the inner electric motor(already in stock here). I also need to do some more painting and sanding. Nonetheless, the printed parts are quite accurate. I will give an update soon when the motor is working. The motor gets internal electrics that work up to 12V so also third party remote control bricks will be allowed to use their boost modes. My big hope is that TLG understands that we need small motors and remotes, not big ones. The length of 5 studs makes this motor very easy to put in all kinds of leftover spaces. Thanks for reading. I'm open to design improvements!
  9. Hello to all, I am new here and wanted to share my very first creation with you. This is Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 pick-up. I build it by using bricks from following sets 42000,42030,42042,42043. I took inspiration from RM8 creations but also in the past I was driving this car quite a lot in raw conditions and I have big sentiment related with this Toyota model. Pix and Video are not pro quality as this is my very first approach to build and share LEGO creation so please don't judge me too harshly form this point of view. I hope you will enjoy looking at this model. In the near future I have plan to make simple video how to build it. Under the below links you will find pix and video. Below is video instruction for Lego Technic Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 - body (part 2). Unfortunately due to file size restriction in my camera, there is missing small part of the video where is shown how to build roof and back side of the body. However this two missing bits are easy to reproduce based on the pix. For those who would like to built this body it can be also good opportunity to put a bit of own invention.
  10. Bricks-on-Rails

    Question about PF Remote Control 64227

    Good evening together, Today i have a question to the community. For a new idea i have to collect some further information about the train remote-control 64227. I know there are around 14 steps to control the speed of a train. -7 => +7 (seven reverse and seven forward). But how many degrees will i turn the wheel from -7 to +7? I know it´s endless and in most cases it doesn´t matter, but in this special case i need to know as exact as possible. Does anybody know the degree per step too? With kind regards Martin
  11. Once in a while, every Technic builder wants to build a Lego boat. I was no exception, but there's a lots of boats being built: how to make an original boat then? I decided to not design a good-looking boat, but to make it a tool for filming. This choice asks for a boat that can be quickly placed into its filming position, which means it should be fast and agile. It should also have enough remote control range to film on big water areas. The 1980's Power Functions remote is thus completely out of the question: responds very slow and outside, there's 2 metres of range. We all must thank S-brick for existing. S-brick (or alternatives) makes this boat possible: without sufficient range, there cannot be a camera boat. Many boats have a keel and a rotating propeller at the back. A submerged plane behind the propeller acts as a rudder. Sadly, a rudder becomes less efffective at lower boat speeds and the boat reacts slowly to it: turning the rudder does not mean turning the boat, it first needs speed (and thus space!) to turn. In Dutch ditches (where I wanted to test the boat), there is not a lot of space available for maneuvering. Having a a slow-responding boat with a rudder there means the boat being into the reed all the time. I therefore eliminated the rudder and mounted the propeller on a hinge. Any hinging of the propeller system at any propeller speed the boat causes immediate turning, which is a nice direct response on the steering input. Good theory, but when a single rotating propeller is mounted on the rear, the boat will rotate along its Z-axis. I'm not sure why this happens. It may happen due to the gyroscopic effect of the propeller or due to the Lego propellers not being made for water propulsion, but anyway I had to deal with it. A second propeller placed next to the first propeller that rotates in the opposite direction seems to to the trick. However, when you mount this system on a single hinge, the (larger) system swings out quite far and easiliy hits reed in the typical tight Dutch waters I tested it in. Also, in windy waters, having a single propeller at the rear means the steering is countersteering all the time just to sail straight on! To deal with the problem, I mounted 1 propeller at the front of the boat and one steered propeller at the rear. This means the boat always tracks straight (even when the wind comes in from any side) and that the propellers can be mounted close to the boat, reducing its draft. The boat is made from 2 boat hulls to create a stable camera platform. This concept worked, it gave a lot of control. I decided to use a race buggy motor as it provides a lot of RPM at low torque, excactly what a boat needs. As no additional parts (for looking nice etc) were added, the boat was light, controllable, fast and really fun to use. The steering is a quite unusual setup (for me). It contains a rack with a 24t gear, a PF Servo motor and a ball link system. This setup had the power and speed that was needed for the steering to be quick. The video The GoPro is mounted upside down under the boat. The high speed axle to the front propeller is also visible. For water level footage, the GoPro is mounted starboard-side of the boat. As the boat only weighs 831 grams, this effects the balance a bit.. Sometimes, I used a rearward-facing camera, mounted in a Lego frame and adjustable by a large linear actuator. The same camera, facing to the front. Due to the size of the boat, there are weight restrictions. The boat wouldn't sink with a mounted DSLR camera, but it would not be stable enough when the wind increases. The Sbrick and PF battery box are mounted on the left side to keep a low center of gravity and to restore the balance (the servo is not in the middle). The boat packs some power, which is visible from the wake in the water. Thanks to S-brick the boat never went out of range so it was also a really nice toy. It might have been faster with BuWizz though, but that question might be answered later. I think this boat really makes a case for the race buggy motor. It has good RPM and power for its size and in the water it never runs out of torque (a problem that can occur on land.. ). Hopefully someday somehow it will be made compatible to Powered Up, otherwise this hero will disappear in the shady realms of the past.
  12. What do you kindly think? (For God’s sake I don’t think there is an already created topic for this! If there is, I am so sorry, again ) Best Regards, Idris
  13. REVIEW - 42095 - REMOTE-CONTROLLED STUNT RACER INTRODUCTION This set feels like the successor to the 42065 - RC Tracked Racer from 2017. Like the 42050 - Drag Racer from 2015, this set also has two wheels at the rear of the vehicle, limiting the vertical movement. Something tells me that, unlike the drag racer, this model can actually do wheelies. And how about those new big sprockets driving the vehicle?! I can hardly imagine these sprockets have been designed specifically for this model. Thoughts about a new big excavator fill my mind. But let's focus on this set first. This review is shorter than usual, but time was limited. Sorry about that. I do hope you enjoy the pictures! PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42095 Title: Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer Theme: Technic Released: 2019 Part Count: 324 Box Weight: 784 gram Box Dimensions: 38,0 cm x 26,0 cm x 7,0 cm Set Price (RRP): € 79,99 Price per Part: € 0,25 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Booklet 1x Sticker sheet 1x Bag with Power Functions elements 1x Power Functions battery box 3x Unnumbered bags BOOKLET STICKER SHEET POWER FUNCTIONS ELEMENTS BATTERY BOX BAGS HIGHLIGHTED PARTS TECHNIC TREAD SPROCKET WHEEL XL These two new sprockets are the XL variant of the Technic Tread Sprocket Large. Since these are new parts, it's safe to assume that the future (2H 2019?) will bring us a big (motorized) set, like a new bulldozer or excavator. POWER FUNCTIONS ELEMENTS This set contains a set of very useful PF elements. You get a battery box, IR transmitter, IR receiver and two large motors. Basically everything to motorize your MOC. BATTERY BOX Something which caught my eye is the new design of the battery box. Going through my collection, I notice this change has been implemented earlier. I remember discussing a slightly different version in the Arcos, so it might have been a couple of years. But most of the time I use one of my other battery boxes with batteries in it. This new design is much better, since you can get all the batteries out easily. COMPLETED MODEL I wasn't too sure about this model, but looking at the completed model, it is definitely growing on my. The yellow-blue color scheme is very vibrant and works really well. Especially with the XL sprockets. And it is no secret I love dark azure. I'm so glad TLG got rid of all the other shades of blue :laugh: Here you can clearly see how big the rear sprockets are. Just when you start loving this little bugger, you are presented with its rear end. Ouch, that hurts. This set is all about fun and performance, but a slightly more decorated rear end would have been better. Not sure if Milan designed this one, but he (or TLG) did a better job with the previous one. I don't think it will bother kids at all, but if I have to name a negative thing about this set, it's the rear end. Two 16T gears, an XL sprocket and an L-motor make up the drivetrain for each side. Minifig paint rollers as mirror pieces and a fishing rod as antenna. Cleverly done. Before I end this review, I do need to address the RRP (Recommended Retail Price) of € 79,99. This set does contain lots of PF elements, but 80 euros seems kinda steep for a model this size, basically being nothing more than a small RC toy. If you can get it with a discount, it is a great PF package though. The left-over parts. READY, SET, GO This review would not be complete without a video. Here you can see the Stunt Racer in action. I have mentioned it before, and I will mention it again; I hope TLG will create treads made up of a softer (more rubber like) material. As you can see, the set is rather useless when you are playing on a smooth surface. Some time ago I bought a couple of these bags in LEGOLAND Germany. It would be great if TLG would include a bunch of these rubber pins with tracked sets. Especially the remote-controlled ones. As you can see the result is much better. It actually does the wheelies which it is supposed to be doing. B-MODEL If it weren't for the price, I would definitely get a second copy to build the B-model and have some fun with both. The B-model looks even more finished than the A-model, but the main model can do wheelies! SUMMARY This is a very fun little model that will keep the kids entertained for a while. Two things that I don't like about this model. One is the rear, with clearly visible cables. And another thing is that the treads don't have any grip on smooth flat surfaces. Maybe a third thing and that is the price. Seems a bit steep for a small RC toy. But these cons definitely don't mean I don't like it, because I simply love this cute little stunt racer! PROS It's great fun It does wheelies It drives really fast Looks nice (except the rear) It's great fun Vibrant color scheme New big sprockets Did I mention it's great fun?! CONS Cables sticking out Treads don't have much grip on smooth surfaces Price SCORE How do I rate this set? 7 DESIGN I love the front and color scheme, but the rear could have been better. 7 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Fun build, given the part count. 7 FEATURES Not so many features, but stunt driving is implemented very well. 8 PLAYABILITY So much fun! 8 PARTS All the PF parts you need to motorize small to medium MOCs. 6 VALUE FOR MONEY The price is pretty steep for what is basically an RC toy. 7,2 WAIT FOR A BOGO DEAL AND GET TWO COPIES FINAL WORDS Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found here.
  14. Lego 88006, 88007, 88008, 88009, 88010, 88011 Powered Up! components Thanks to Lego and EuroBricks for making this review possible! Since Lego is switching to a new system instead of Power Functions, they wanted people to check out the new parts. Name: Powered Up Set Number: 88006, 88007, 88008, 88009, 88010, 88011 Pieces: n/a Price: varies, see below Minifigs: 0 Theme: Technic, Train, Boost, and Creator Year of Release: 2019 These sets are technically new, but the parts aren't. They've been available in the Boost and Train sets for a while now, so lots of people have already looked at them. Sariel did x-rays of all the PF and PUP devices (and older too!) JopieK did a teardown of the PUP parts and posted it here on EB. treczoks is putting together documentation on the protocols and others are doing similar. This review will be different than my normal ones, since it's not a standard set. It's not really a "set" at all. I want to compare the new parts to the old PF system, both in function and design. So first, here's all the PF and PUP sets: A couple of them don't have any prices that I've seen online yet. The highlighted prices are ones that I saw listed on the Lego US site, but they're not online now (12/20/2018). Obviously, all the Lego electronics are pricey. But for comparison, to get a full train setup (speed remote, battery box, motor, IR receiver) you'd be at $55. The equivalent PUP setup (motor, remote, hub) would be around $90 (guessing at the train motor price). The bluetooth electronics are much more complicated and expensive than infrared is. A simple motorized set (something like the new Vestas windmill, or the Roller Coaster, or similar) would be very expensive in the PUP ecosystem, since there is no "dumb" battery box. It's possible that Lego will add one at some point for those set types, or they'd need to keep PF alive. There's also a few gaps in the lineup. The WeDo motor, which is PUP compatible since it's in the Batmobile set, is not available standalone. I'm actually really curious why they used that motor in that set instead of the "PUP Medium" motor. Also, there's only the one motor so far. There's no XL or other "big" motor, so we'll have to see if the PUP Medium motor is powerful enough to handle the XL's loads. The switch is not really needed anymore, since the hub has controls built in. I can see extension wires coming - I'm sure builders will want them, and it'd be simple enough. As for the much-desired adapter wires, that's a bit tougher. It'd be great to control PF motors from a PUP hub. However, the PUP system identifies the motors, so the adapter cable would have to identify to the hub that it's a PF motor. The hub would not know which motor it was. Enough of the talk, let's look at the parts. The Box Bags IMG_4289 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr These parts come in individual bags. Anyone who's ordered PF components individually will be familiar with them. These aren't sets that you'll find on a store shelf (except maybe a Lego store), so the outward appearance and extra space taken up isn't worth the cost to box them. The Contents IMG_4291 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr Here are the parts themselves. The Interesting Parts IMG_4291 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr I always have an "interesting part" section in my reviews to highlight new molds, colors, rare parts, etc. But here, they're all interesting so I just repeated the photo. If that annoys you, just keep scrolling and see new images below. The Manual IMG_4290 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr For a company that normally has zero text in their manuals, wow. Here's some of the paperwork that comes with these, because they have electronic parts. Each document is in THIRTY FIVE different languages, so each paper is only a couple sentences. Each of the battery-powered parts has a "how to put the batteries in" flyer. Every item had a paper saying "Protect the environment by not disposing of this product with your household waste. Check with your local authority for recycling advice and facilities." Yes, every single item had that included. Battery Boxes IMG_4307 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr Here are the current Lego battery boxes. From left to right is the 6 AA box, mostly used in Technic, then the Boost Hub, currently only used in the Boost robotic set which holds 6 AAA batteries, then the PUP Hub, also holding 6 AAA batteries, and finally the PF 6 AAA battery box, commonly used in trains. The new hub is the exact same size as the 6 AAA box, and it has the green power button in the same location. However, the new one has the connections on the end instead of on top. The Hub IMG_4302 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr First, we have the basic Powered Up hub. This is the 6 AAA box, which is 3 parts. The batteries go into a "cartridge" which snaps into the base. It might be possible for a rechargeable module to become available at some point, but there's no external charging port like the PF rechargeable box, so it'd require taking the box apart still. The Boost Hub IMG_4293 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr Likewise, the Boost Hub uses a battery "cartridge." However, it's part of the base so it would be possible to have a rechargeable battery module with a port in the bottom. The Motor Lineup IMG_4295 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr The new PUP motor (sometimes called the Boost motor since that's where it's currently available) is almost as large as the PF XL motor, but it's studded. The only pin connections are on the face of it. The PUP motors do have a big feature that the PF ones don't. They have built in rotary encoders, like the Mindstorm motors do, so programmable systems can see how much they've turned. The motor can actually be used as an input sensor too - put a tire on it and have a dial control! This only works with the Boost hub though since you need the programming capability to do anything with the information. The Train Motors IMG_4308 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr The new train motor is identical in shape and size to the PF one. The only outward difference is the cable- it's shorter and wider. The Plug IMG_4298 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr As you can see, the new plug is smaller, but the cable is wider. Overall it takes up less space, since once it's plugged in, the hard plastic sticks out one stud. The old connector was fully exposed all the time. It'll take a little different building design though, since the new plug sticks out from the battery box. The Sensor IMG_4300 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr This, to me, is the oddest part of the inclusion in this shipment. This sensor comes with the Boost robotics set. In that setting, it makes sense, and I understand why people would want to buy it alone (to add more sensors to their design). However, without the Boost set, it's usefulness is limited. It does nothing useful when connected to the regular Hub. When it's connected to the Boost Hub, it's a great color and distance sensor with lots of usage. I'm actually now trying to piece together a Boost set out of my parts collection to try all the Boost designs, since I have the Hub, Sensor, and Motor here. But to the majority of people using the new PUP system, they won't see any use for the sensor. Yet. What if, down the road, Lego sells a train set that includes the sensor and some software updates to the basic Hub? It'd be trivial then to have some colored tiles on the train tracks so that the train could be programmed. Make noises at certain locations, stop, etc. The current Duplo trains do that! So why not bring that functionality to the older kids and AFOLs? This DOES need a software update from Lego though, since like I said, the smaller Hub does not allow any programming or recognize the sensor, as far as I can tell. And the Boost Hub is too big for a standard 6 wide Lego train. The Remote IMG_4304 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr Speaking of trains and controlling them, here's the new remote. It is TINY! Granted, I'm a big guy (6 foot 3) with big hands, but this is small. It's certainly smaller than the PF speed remote. And personally, I'm torn on the functionality. If you're not aware, the Hub can detect what motor is connected and act differently based on that. If you connect the Medium motor, this remote acts like the old small PF remote - the buttons give you 100% power for as long as you hold them. Release the button, and the motor stops. If you connect the train motor, this remote acts like the PF speed remote. The + and - buttons step through speeds and it keeps running. The red button stops it. This makes sense for kids and keeps the line of parts simpler, but it removes advanced functionality. What if I want to run the medium motor at lower speed? I can't. The top center of the remote is an RGB LED. It lights up the same color as the hub to show what units are paired together. The PF system allowed 4 "frequencies" with 2 channels each. The PUP system has 5 "frequencies" with 2 channels each. This remote also removes the need for the PF switch. You can turn the button sections of this remote. So if you want one motor running reversed, just turn that set of buttons upside down. If you want to steer left and right, you can turn the buttons sideways. One thing you cannot do is modify the remote, the way the PF remotes would be modified, with addon parts. Lego themselves has done this - like the 9398 Crawler set: The new remote has some pin holes on the sides, but no way to attach to the buttons. The App IMG_4311 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr The big new function with the new system is the app. There's the Boost app, which allows programming the Boost Hub, and the PUP app, which controls the basic Hub. This app is very limited. You pick which set (currently the Batmobile, Freight Train, and Passenger Train), and then appropriate controls appear. It's all preconfigured and not modifiable. It doesn't allow you to design your own controls the way SBrick and others do, so if you want to make a new vehicle, you have to control it like it's a train or Batmobile (using those particular motors, since the hub knows what is connected!) I strongly suspect Lego will come out with another app (or a major update to this one) to control custom builds, and frankly, I don't know why they haven't yet. The Performance, Speed IMG_4573 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr I mounted a tire on each motor (both PUP and PF) and checked the RPM at full speed. Here's the results: As you can see, the PUP M motor is closer in speed to the XL than the other PF motors. The PUP train goes slightly faster at full speed than the PF train motor. I checked all the speeds, and it ranges from about 500 to 1800. The Performance, Power IMG_4574 by mostlytechnic, on Flickr I also checked the force each motor can generate. As I don't have a proper torque meter, I made my own rig. In the photo, it was trying to lift a heatsink from a computer. That was too easy, so I moved on to a heavier weight. The XL motor was still able to lift that, but none of the other motors could. The measurements on the train motors were at full speed. One thing I noticed - the PUP train motor would cut out after a few seconds at a stall. When I hit stop, it would be immediately ready to run again, so I don't think this was the internal thermistor cutting it out. I think the hub is monitoring the speed and shutting it off when it wasn't rotating. I should try having an actual train drag a load and see what happens... The Conclusion So, what's my conclusion? Overall, I see what Lego wanted to do with the new PUP system. It eliminates the IR weakness, removes the need for a separate receiver, and updates the system to be "app-enabled" like all the cool toys are now. I think that also brought some new limitations that Lego CAN remove, but hasn't yet. I'm looking forward to seeing the PUP system appear in Technic sets to see how Lego handles that. That will be a while though, since the only motorized Technic set in the first half of 2019 is the Stunt Racer, and it still uses the PF system. That COULD have been a great set to use PUP in, similar to the Batmobile, but for some reason they chose not to. I'm guessing the M motor doesn't have the speed for the stunt racer and they didn't want to put the WeDo motors in? That doesn't seem like great logic to me, and I really hope there's more motor options to come. The PUP M motor is too big and too slow for a lot of Technic applications. Right now we're in the transition phase and I hope Lego is listening to the various categories of users. AFOL train users want to connect multiple motors on the same channel to run big trains. Technic users need smaller motors. Creator needs a simpler, cheaper system. And almost everyone needs customizable app interfaces
  15. Backstory: Ever since I emerged from my dark age I was mesmerized by Designer Han’s models – especially dragline excavator. I like all kind of excavators so I was slowly gathering pieces for it to buy instructions and build it. I have realized over the time that building from instructions is not entertaining for me and that I can build almost anything if I have the drive (and parts). I still admire Han’s models, but I know that I would be disappointed because of his design choices. Don’t get me wrong – I still like his work, but I don’t want to build it anymore. Long story short – I wanted my own dragline excavator with truck transport. Preparations: First of all I had to pick a reference machine, in this case Sennebogen HD 670 tracked crane. Why this one? Sennebogen because it is not very known and because of this fantastic die cast model: . Such models are very good because you can see the machine from a lot of angles and you can replicate small details from them more easily. The model is however 690HD and I have picked smaller 70 ton 670HD. This is because of whole concept with transport truck. The scale is dictated by wheels, in this case by wheels on truck and wheels on excavator as well. Since TLG is making only two wheels for tracked vehicles it is simple choice. With bigger tracked wheels the scale is 21,5:1, meaning that 49,5mm tires for truck are perfect fit. 690HD with the same wheels would be closer to 23:1 and we do not have truck wheels for this scale. Features: Undercarriage Real crawlers have either retractable tracks or dismount them completely when transported. In order to achieve that I had to place all motors to superstructure and use single battery box. As you can see from datasheet, the tracks can be retracted so they are not wider than body. To replicate it I have built it in such way that both tracks are very easily detachable from central piece that can be swapped for narrow one. Replacing this central piece doesn’t take more than few minutes, it is only necessary to take apart two liftarms on each side as seen in the picture. Another stud or two narrower tracks would be probably better, but I would certainly lose the ability to swap it easily. All four wheels are driven by two shafts from superstructure connected to M motors; final ratio is 9,265:1. Wide track Narrow track IMGP5236 Superstructure The superstructure holds six motors (4x M-motor and 2x L-motor) – two M motors are for tracks, 1x M motor is for slewing via worm gear on turntable (56:1) and rest are for winches. Slewing gave me quite a headache because of the desired gear ratio. The real machine can rotate up to 4 revolutions per minute so I wanted to replicate that. In the end the only viable solution was to use older turntable driven by worn gear without further gear reductions. I use train PF remote to start and stop smoothly. The usage of older turntable meant I had to shorten boom because of its less stability as it bends significantly more than new type. The A frame is fixed – the boom is raised by pulling floating pulleys with attached ropes. Bigger machines uses movable A frame where the angle between A frame and boom is fixed. The A frame can be folded down when the crawler is transported. A frame is Pythagorean triplet with beams length 29-21-20. There are 3 winches for boom raising, bucket lifting and bucket drag. All three are equally geared 5:1. Counterweight is detachable as on real machine, it of course holds standard Technic battery box. Cabin features opening doors and foldable walkway. IMGP5220 IMGP5222 Ready for work side by side Boom Booms on real machines are made out of several truss elements bolted together. There is usually lower boom section that stays on crawler when transported, then are intermediate sections in various lengths (2,9m, 5,7, and 11,2m) and then headpiece section. I wanted to replicate this kind of boom so I focused on correct shape of each section and size as well. This mean that the lower boom section is pyramid-shape: 5x1 studs wide at crawler side and 9x9 studs at opposite end. I guess not all connections on it are TLG legal, but everything fits nicely without any stress and thanks to it truss-like constructions it is very sturdy. The same principle follows at intermediate section, in my case the shortest one (2920 mm => 17 studs). Boom ends with headpiece that is quite similar to lower section but ends with two pulleys. They are of course not real pulleys as TLG doesn’t make anything free-spinning in that size but size was more important to me. The drawback of such modular boom is its weight; it is almost double the weight of boom that would be built in one piece so I had to stay low with total length. There are also two pulleys serving as fairlead so the rope dragging the bucket goes to winch from top, the fairlead pulleys are mounted on lever so they stay in same position regardless of boom angle. Headpiece side comparsion boom Bucket It is brick-build and its size is only guessed from pictures and its volume, I was unable to find any datasheets with buckets. Bucket Greebling, look and difficulties As usually I pay a lot of attention to greebling like railings, mirrors, cabin shape, lights and other small details. I really had fun with this model as it is quite packed with it. The biggest obstacle during the build was constant lack of parts. Together with truck and low-loader it is reaching 4000 pieces and I was even running low on both 2l and 3l pins once. I had selected yellow color at the start, green would be certainly better for Sennebogen, but I already had some yellow parts and green technic is very expensive. Beside that I have seen pictures of Sennebogen machines in various colors like yellow, red and blue, so I think it is fine. The whole internal build is very symmetric; the only asymmetric is gearing on left side for slewing and gearing on right for drag winch. IMGP5223 Playability Honestly, playability sucks. There is one important feature of real dragline omitted – free fall winches. Without it you can place bucket too close and drag it only few centimeters. Grabbing anything with the bucket is also very difficult. Drive and slew works very well though. Truck The truck is very loosely based on this real counterpart: i.e. 8x4 tractor with short wheelbase, 2 steered axles, high cabin and tower behind it. It is driven by L-motor and servo is used for steering. Both steerable axles use the same configuration like in my previous truck – 5l steering arms and hubs with 3 ball joints. There is of course Ackermann steering and different angle on both axles. Rear axles are connected to fake V6 engine. Cabin features two seats, IR receiver between them and steering wheel. Whole cabin can tilt to reveal engine. Gear ratio from L motor is 7:1 because it is meant to haul quite a lot of weight. The truck can be easily modified to low cabin version as the high roof is only held by four pins. The tower is too high then so it is replaced with bare battery box. The whole truck is quite heavy on front and it have sometimes trouble with driving when it is without load so it is possible to add ballast box on its fifth wheel. There is also coupling for draw ball trailer, but it is not meant for pulling. I think the most difficult part of design was not to copy my previous truck. The cabin is still quite similar, I’m aware of that, but in the end I’m happy with other small details that makes it different – flags on front, mud flaps, detachable roof, etc. IMGP5248 IMGP5249 Working fake engine Low cabin Ballast box Low-loader Low loader with detachable gooseneck is based on Motomat’s trailer because in the end you realize there is only one viable way how to build it – two technic beams with plates between. A little challenge was how to mount wheels without using single axle for both sides. The frame between wheels can be only 4 studs wide meaning the axle can be supported by 2 studs. I have used 8L axle with stop supported by thin liftarms. In the end the wheels are supported enough, they can rotate freely and you can take them apart without axle. IMGP5260 Lowloader with detachable gooseneck Instructions I have made instructions for dragline and truck as well. Lowloader will follow soon. Both will appear on Rebrickable soon, I will add link here later. Due to amount of work it took I will sell instructions for dragline for 10€ and truck for 5€. Lowloader will be free as it is not something trully mine. Both instructions are as usually PDF generated by LPub3D. Especially the dragline is compressed into as few steps as possible, with only 115 pages (~2400 parts), so if you don't like TLG instructions for beeing too easy this might be something for you. Dragline rebrickable link: Video & gallery Whole gallery is here: And one crappy video for end:
  16. Hello, I present you my latest model: Starting from the 42053 set, I decided to add some improvements and make it remote controlled with linear actuators and PF. The undercarriage is very similar to the original, with manual functions. Main mods are double wheels, and some aesthetic adjustments. The Power functions components are located in the upper-structure, except one motor which is in the boom. 1M motor for rotation of the upper-structure 1XL motor for the main boom 1M motor for the third section of the boom 1M motor for the bucket There is also a fake linear actuator to adjust the second section of the boom. I used this solution because this adjustable boom is more common in the real EW160E. Changeable buckets with quick-coupler: Access to the battery box: Power button with easy access: More photos: Video coming soon!!
  17. Hello, my entry for the TC6 contest it's a heavy forklift truck, the Hyster 32-12. The model has 8 functions (4 IR or 2 sBricks), it's 50% built at the moment and nearly completed on LDD/MLcad. Soon I'll put updates (photos, video, notes) Here a pic of what an Hyster 32-12 is: Thanks, and hold on for news. Video:
  18. Hi all, A little presentation of my LEGO Forwarder named XXL for obvious reasons :) It has been a project in my spare time for some years now and still not finished (probably never will be...) Most basic facts: Weight: 6,7 kilograms Dimensions: 95xx36x50 studs Drive: 8 XL motors + hub reduction Steering: Forced by controlling front left with rear right and the other way around (because of the weight in combination with the huge friction from the wheels) Wheels: From 8466 (4x4 Offroader) Some vids from Youtube: Feel free to comment or ask questions, I´ll try to answer them :)
  19. Hi all, i've finally started my tc11 entry, i was playing around some building techniques i've improved on all my project and i initially wanted to build a robot with a razer like drive (omniwheel at the back and normal wheels at the front) but i found that drive inefficient and with a lot of friction, so i decided to built the "most compact 4x4 rubber-band powered flipper + lifter combo " and i'm not sure how it will end, but i came up with a concept chassis (it has working drive and lifting wedglets and it comes from the first idea of my entry (a sliding disk bot, but there are too many spinners here)), the problem is that i need to fit there the reloading motor (XL) the battery box and the two receivers/sbrick and i'm not sure i can (mainly because i've built a lot of compact robots and there were a lot more space than in this one) so i may came back to design a more efficent 4wd omni+standard drive and have a bigger footprint but i'm not sure, meanwhile (i'm currently building the mechanisms) enjoy the concept: drive: 2 XL motors, 4WD with friction gears main weapon: rubber-band powered flipper v2 (hoping for 2hg flipping, before it was ~1) reloaded by and xl motor secobndary weapon: lifting wedglets powered by and M motor (no electronics here) current size: 26x27 stud, with retracted weapon(battle position)
  20. I was really so busy that is a long time since i created a folder on brickshelf, and now it's time to add my remaining 8 bot: i'm also aiming to create a lxf file for each, but currently waiting for the first folder to become public. What i want to do is to keep this fist post simple with robots thumbnails, link to the future reply about them, descriptions and lxf files, let's start: Really hope that all the files and photos that i'll put there can inspire some TC11 competitors, unfortnately you can't fight bot in the entry video but i will really like to know how a fight between your bots and mine will end (despite my bot being ruled by different and more restrictive rules). Bot-focused replies will be posed one every day starting from tomorrow and then this first message will be updated with thumbnails, lxf files and more info, i'm doing this because i'm progressively dismantle all the robots and i want to keep them at least in digital form (so i'll have more pieces for my new ideas without loosing the previous ones). i also really want to thaks LRW (lego robot wars) group for the support that they gave to me while i was building and posting updates there: in order not no make this topic only a bunch of writings i have a small video about the first bot that will be showcased tomorrow (asap) so here all the robots: name: LIFTY description: this is the 2nd of the -ITY team, a series of simple robots made to show the archetypes of combat robots and also easy to replicate, they also fight each other but the winner wasn't this one. signature move: LIFTER weight class: 500g notes: despite being a lifter it is not really able to full lift the opponent but by going under it and pushing with the additive weight it can easily lift and flip up to 1kg bots! lxf file: lifty.lxf bot reply link(scroll down here): click here name: BITY description: this is the first of the -ITY team, also the most complex featuring a jaw that can be opened and rotate, it represents grabbers or control robots that aim to grab the opponent and push them into the PIT of oblivion due to the use of lipo BB (i have only one) and the excessive weight (700g) it didn't compete to the secret -ITY championship signature move: CLAW weight class: 500g notes: 4x4 transmission is really powerful but has a lot of friction while steering (even at smaller weight class) so the battle position of BITY is with the claw inclined down and front wheels lifted up and not touching the ground lxf file: bity.lxf bot reply link: click here name: FLIPPY description: 3rd of the ITY team it is a spring powered flipper! inspired by diotor this bot relies to a winch mechanism that is able to load and relase 4 9398 shock absorbers with only one motor! signature move: winch reloaded-spring powered FLIPPER arm weight class: 500g notes: unable to self right was defeated by lifty on the -ITY tournament lxf file: flippy.lxf bot reply link: click here name: CARBIDE description: replica of uk robot wars competitor carbide, grand finalist of series 8 and champion of series 9 signature move: horizontal spinner weight class: 1kg new technic motor used: 2x M for drive, 1x 9V motor (745699) for weapon drive: 2WD and can drive even if upside down! notes: the side armor is really tough but can be detached from th main body, also the bar has a quite good punch but luckily not enough to break lego pieces, it can remove armor and exposed wheels. also it is driven by an sbrick receiver so it has the advantage of PWM motor controls and no line of sight needed, may also join 3-robot matches due to not providing interferences with IR lxf file: carbide.lxf bot reply link: click here name: PULSAR description: again a 2016 competitor, smaller and faster than carbide, but equally lethal signature move:SPINNING DRUm with double single tooth weight class: 1kg replica new technic bricks notes: it requires only two channels to be controlled because the spinning drim is always one and a rubber band belt prevent the motor stall name: WITCH DOCTOR description: this replica is from BATTLEBOTS! unluckily i can't replicate the purple/green color scheme but this time i used old technic bricks so it is completely smash-able! but mind that its deadly single tooth disc smash bot before they can do anything signature move: single tooth SPINNING VERTICAL DISK weight class: 1kg replica with system bricks notes: my first inclined wheel drive (with chains) that really helps the bot steering even if 4x4 with all the wheels on the ground name: CARDIAC II description: the first fan designed bot that i motorized, it will fight witch doctor later this moth (hopefully) and it is armed with a deadly axe that can stop the 2000rpm disk of its opponent signature move: fast AXE weight class: 1kg replica with system bricks notes: it is the biggest bot i've ever built and has a pretty advanced weapon capable of rapid fire with a single M motor name: KILERHURTZ test chassis description: this poor bot was never finished (and used to test all other bots weapon) due to the armor of the original 100kg one being really difficult to replicate, but it's weapon really reflect the power of a 110kg machine signature move: rubber-band powered gearing reloaded AXE weight class: never finished notes: it can be operated with a full auto reload system and a tap firing button from the sbrick APP
  21. You know when you build a huge MOC and your lamplight doesn't illuminate the whole thing and you have to constantly aim and re-aim the lamp? You might not know it but this adds no less than 42 minutes to your overall build time! Outrageous! Luckily, I've found the solution: The video may be left to speak for itself: Now the build is pretty simple. The base was the toughest part. Getting two independant spinning axles througha turntable while keeping the area nice and clean! The whole structure rests on four tyres to eliminate vibration and the resulting sound. the bulb is clamped by a worm and 8-tooth gear. I did not alter any bricks to fit the bulb and the bulb can be taken out at any time if anyone requires a purely LEGO lamp. And who would dare! The lampshade is how it is because the lighbulb was very mean and melted through the system bricks that formed the first prototype. It brought a respectable amount of tears to my eye. This new framy lampshade has endured over two hours of maths homework with no sign of wear! Now, the programming did require some little thought. The aim in the vertical plane is done through a load of trigonometry, while the horizontal aim works directly with the IR sensor's "beacon heading" output. One thought I'm particularly proud of is my use of squared and cubed values to slow the motor down as they approach their desired positions, thereby eliminating any shaking from hesitation or even indicision! That's all I have to say but I'll be more than happy to answer any question from a fellow moving-LEGO-lamp enthusiast, if there ever was such a thing! Please check out my Wind-up Robot on LEGO IDEAS! Thank you, for reading my words!
  22. Already two years ago, I got inspired at defeating steep hills with the LiteJeep. That could already beat 50 degrees, but because of its high riding height (good for offroading) and relatively heavy PF L motors, I reckoned there would be more irons to put into the hill-climbing fire. Very important things for hillclimbing are sufficient grip, huge power and a low weight. Weight ultimately gives more grip, but it also causes the vehicle to flip earlier when it is located above the center of gravity. With these factors into the equation, I decided to create a vehicle with loads of grip, so with 4 rubber tracks, and with articulated steering to make a sturdy connection between right and left possible, which is essential for climbing: when any vehicle is climbing, the suspension does unexpected things, so a stiff frame and suspension setup are required. Lightweight design requires a low complexity too, so that is why articulated steering is chosen. Having a front and rear part to let the vehicle adjust its shape to the terrain is an option I used several times in my rubber-tracked vehicles. This is the first vehicle in which I used the maximum footprint instead of the triangular form, again for maximum grip. Please note that, when you choose for the sturdyness and simplicity of articulated steering ánd want to let it adjust to the terrain, the middle joint becomes very complex as it contains joints in two axes! There is always a place where pain comes back. The Law of Conservation of Pain holds here.. In this case, all the trouble was in the difficult joint, which took about 5 hours alone. Then for the power: initially an XL motor was used in the front, but having a driveshaft through the already complex dual joint proved to be impossible. And then the idea came. Why not generate the power at the place where it is needed? Why not, if there are two separate parts, have some powerplant in both front and rear? But then there was a problem: I have a very large project in which all my three L motors are used. This pushed me in the direction of using M-motors, which proved out to be a very good forced choice. Combined with the lightness of the overall model, they proved to have ample torque left with a 3:1 gear ratio, having enough torque to keep the four tracks spinning all time when grip was lost. This is amazing, and you can see why Lego has put two M motors in their latest Tracked Racer. But the limits of that thing are way lower than the Quattrack's limit. Using two PF medium motors for drive and one for steering, this one of my very few (and maybe the last) Lego Technic MOC with only 2006 components. The Sbrick will throw all range headaches away and have much less delay than the stone-age PF IR remote it is replacing. Why did I use such standard power functions components? The new PF servo is slow and quirky, a medium motor allows for much more smoothness in steering. Moreover, if you are driving at steep slopes like this, it asks all your concentration to keep it on the move. If you cannot feel where the remote control knobs are (The intrinsic problem of the Sbrick) the vehicle will fall of before you've compensated. So the old system proved to be the best system in this situation. The articulated joint actually contains 3 joints, to have a suspension force on it in both directions: up and down. That is why there are rubber bands and one shock absorber. By the way, also the steering joint is included. Now, because the front and rear part of the Quattrack are relatively conventional (no steering nor differentials), all the pain of good and accurate steering is shifted to the design of this central joint. I dare to state that the success of this vehicle relies for a big part on this 2D joint. In the video, the operation is explained. On this photo, it looks as if the ground clearance is half a stud. This is not the case; in fact, it is over 1 stud. The underside is very smooth, which helps the low superstructure to glide over obstacles. Because of the weight saving, I designed it to have very clean looks. Styling means more weight. However, I managed to squeeze in some little details like fake cabin flashing lights, front lights, rear lights, cabin seats and a steering wheel. The reason why I did this, is that I wanted it to be a possible real-life vehicle as well, not just a scientific experiment. Adding weight is bad for climbing ability, so I tested the Quattrack also with the cabin removed and say what !!? The climbing angle was the same. This front look shows all that. The Quattrack contains everything, but nothing more. You do not need a zillion pieces of Lego to break records. Only 556 grams of it is sufficient in some cases. The video is the proof of all my theories... [media] I have not put all text and photo's on Eurobricks. More is to be found on Brickshelf and MocPages. If you like my video's, you might want to take a look on my YouTube channel.
  23. I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
  24. Hi eurobricks! here is my new dune buggy: details: it is fast, powered by l motor, nizn aaa batteries, servo motor and ir reciver of course! it also has some lights which are useful in the dark! building time: 4 hours. insrtuctions: no, but maybe i will make some. Video: i hope you enjoy!
  25. hi all, some months ago i made this video of lego battlebots, and now i'm posting it there because maybe you could be interested also for TC11, you'll find all the bot info in the video but i'll clone them here too, hope to bring up a brickshelf folder asap for the two bots (but i have to rebuild them due to pieces and electronics being used for witch doctor replica, cardiac two, fanmade design, killerhurts and recyclopse chassis, and other 3 500g class bot an grabber a lifer and a flipper) PULSAR weight: 700g size: 23x27x9studs weapon: 73g spinning drum with two single teeth 1900rpm strenghts: really effective wedge shape used to go under the opponent and lift them with the drum energy weaknesses: the drum isn't enough fast to launch the oppnent on the air, wheelholders may break off easily, weak wepon belt CARBIDE weight: 730g size: 32x32x9 studs weapon: 84g spinning bar 750rpm strenghts: great power and though armor, effective rear wedge weaknesses: the armor can e warped or bent and increase friction in the drivetrain, hard to control, high battery consumption here a photos from Ellis (pulsar builder) about size comparison here the video: NB it is really long, if you want, after presentation, you can skip to 11:02 to skip the fist fight (a bit long and boring) and save time without losing the most of the action! i'm keeping editing this with photos and videos from my twitter, it is hard to find them back but i'll try: CARBIDE PULSAR