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Found 29 results

  1. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  2. Hello everyone, I have built a model of one of Britains classic race cars, the Bentley 4.5l ‘Blower’, a project that was never actually approved by W.O Bentley (company founder) but nonetheless took part in the 1930 Le Mans 24hr race and French Grand Prix where it finished second behind a much more agile Bugatti type 35. Its claim to fame was not through racing victory but through its racing stories. The model has working ‘worm and wheel’ steering and a removable bonnet to expose the 4.5 litre, 4-cylinder supercharged engine. Accuracy and realism was key right from the chassis frame and the parts were spray painted to give two new green colours. For more info and images please Click here to take a look at the project on Lego Ideas. Many thanks...
  3. Hi, Can anyone tell me if Big Ben Bricks is still selling their custom wheels? I tried to send a couple of emails, but got a blank ‘auto reply’ both times. thanks
  4. I started this project because I wanted to share my experiences building various offroad models over the last decade. This topic is meant to guide the builders with comparisments, suggestion and best building practices, It is however not a place to find already finished and perfected designs - that's up to you. Various aspects of the design of the vehicles will be split into several subgroups and explained in details. 1. Number of wheels First thing we need to know is how many wheels our design will have. Most common setups are as following: 4x4 Setup Advantages: 1. The simplest and most widely setup 2. Having only 4 wheels means lower weight and higher performance 3. Higher manoeuverability 4. Simple suspension and driveline design Disadvantages: 1. With only 4 wheels the suspension has to be designed to be as flexible as possible to get the most out of the wheels 2. In a case of a mechanical failure of a single wheel, the whole model's performance is greatly affected 6x6 Setup with double rear axles Advantages: 1. Two rear axle provide more traction area, especially when going uphill 2. Usually 6x6 vehicles are longer than 4x4 and therefore less likely to tip over 3. Since the front and second axle are usually closer than in 4x4 setup, there is less ground clearance needed between them 4. Greater redundancy in a case of a mechanical failure Disadvantages: 1. Lower manoeuverability due to a longer wheelbase even with rear wheel steering 2. More complex driveline and suspension design is required 8x8 or more wheels setup Advantages: 1. Having 8 or more allows for much greater traction area 2. Ability to drive over ditches 3. Because wheels are usually much closer there is much less chances of getting stuck on top of an obstacle 4. Excellent redundancy in a case of a mechanical failure 5. Better weight distribution 6. Less suspension travel required per each wheel as with 4x4 or 6x6 and hence better stability Disadvantages: 1. Lower manoeuverability even with rear wheel steering 2. Powering 8 or more requires a very complex driveline 3. Depending on a driveline, combined torque required for powering all 8 wheels can destroy gears if a single wheel gets stuck 2. Type of wheels and tyres Now that we decided on how many wheels we want for our offroad beast, we have to look into what type of tyres and wheels we want to use. I will hereby cover only the bigger types of tyres and wheels. 1. 94.8x44R Advantages: 1. Low weight 2. Good thread design 3. Low rolling resistance Disadvantages: 1. Low traction, these tyres are prone to slip on the rim at high loads 2. Due to its rounded shape the tyres tend to slide off obstacles when crawling over them 2. 94.3x38R Advantages: 1. Low weight 2. Medium traction 3. Low rolling resistance 4. Realistic design and proportions Disadvantages: 1. Shallow thread pattern 2. These tyres are very hard and don't adjust to the terrain 3. 107x44R Advantages: 1. Low weight 2. Medium traction 3. Very deep thread 4. Currently largest tyres by diameter Disadvantages: 1. High rolling restistance and vibrations due to the thread pattern 2. These tyres are a bit hard and don't adjust to the terrain 4. Power Puller tyres Advantages: 1. High traction 2. Good thread 3. Largest Lego tyres ever produced 4. Deep wheel offset Disadvantages: 1. High weight 2. Hard to use, they require complex hub assemblies 3. Very rare and expensive 5. Outdoor challenger wheels Advantages: 1. Very high traction 2. Very good thread pattern 3. Deep wheel offset 4. Over 7 studs of space inside the wheel Disadvantages: 1. High weight 2. Hard to attach to the standard axles 3. They require a lot of torque to use them at their full potential. 6. Tumbler wheels Advantages: 1. Low weight 2. High traction 3. Very flexible Disadvantages: 1. Low thread pattern 2. Small size 3. Expensive For the 94.8x44R. 94.3x38R and 107x44R tyres we have a choice of two wheels: 1. Racing wheel large Advantages: 1. Good mounting option with axlehole and pinhole 2. Available in multiple colours 3. Cheap Disadvantages: 1. No inside wheel offset means steering pivot point can't be placed inside the wheel. 1. Futuristic wheel Advantages: 1. Deep wheel offset allows us to place steering pivot point inside or closer to the wheel than racing wheel large 2. Slightly larger wheel size stops the 94.8x44R tyre from slipping on the rim Disadvantages: 1. Limited mounting options, with only one axlehole 2. Hard to find 3. Hubs Now that we have our wheels and tyres we need a way to mount and power them. Here are the most common currently available options: 1. New standard ungeared CV hubs These hubs are usually driven by the CV joint counterpart which pops inside Advantages: 1. Low steering pivot offset - usually at the edge of the tyre: 2. Firm wheel mounting 3. Readily available, easy to use and to build on. Disadvantages: 1. Low operating angle - the CV joint can operate to a maximum of about 30 degrees, which limits steering angle. 2. Very low torque transfer - the CV joints are prone to deforming and popping out even with low torque applies to them 3. Low ground clearance 2. Old ungeared CV hubs Advantages: 1. Low steering pivot offset - usually at the edge of the tyre 2. Firm wheel mounting 3. Better ground clearance than newer hubs Disadvantages: 1. Very low operating angle - the CV joint can operate to a maximum of about 25 degrees, which limits steering angle. 2. Very low torque transfer - the CV joints are prone to deforming and popping out even with low torque applies to them 3. Hard to find and expensive 4. No other mounting points than 4 ball joints 3. Built cardan ungeared hubs Example of a hub using a cardan joint to directly transfer the power to the wheel Advantages: 1. Low steering pivot offset - usually at the edge of the tyre 2. Easy to build 3. Can transfer higher torque than a CV joint 4. Higher steering angle Disadvantages: 1. Mounting relies only on the axle and is not as firm as standard hubs 2. Not capable of transferring high torque to the wheels 3. Low ground clearance 4. Standard portal hubs Advantages: 1. Easy to use and to build on. 2. Can transfer very high torque to the wheels when using 8z and 24Z gear combination 3. High steering angle 4. High ground clearance 5. Firm wheel mounting Disadvantages: 1. Very high steering pivot offset - requires stronger steering mechanisms and more fender space for wheel to swing 5. Built portal hubs Advantages: 1. Easy to build. 2. Can transfer very high torque to the wheels when using 8z and 24Z gear combination 3. High steering angle 4. Higher ground clearance than standard portal hubs 5. Low steering pivot offset when using futuristic wheels Disadvantages: 1. Wheels are mounted and held only by one axle, not as firm as standard hubs 2. Hub relies on friction of the components to keep it together, which can slide apart after prolonged use 6. Built planetary hub Advantages: 1. Highest gear ratio of all other hubs, 1:4 2. Firm wheel mounting when using futuristic of power puller wheels 3. High steering angle 4. Lower steering offset than standard portal hubs Disadvantages: 1. Requires old turntable, futuristic or power puller wheels for best results - all are hard to find 2. High number of moving gears 3. Least efficient due to the high friction caused by the large surface contact area and number of moving gears 4. Suspension Suspension is the mechanism that will keep our model's wheels in contact to the ground and will be supporting most of its weight. Most of the designs cover 4x4's Following factors determine the type of suspension system we will use: 1. Weight of the model - The heavier the model, the stronger the suspension components have to be 2. Speed - Faster models require more responsive suspension systems with low unsprung weight 3. Flexibility - The higher the obstacles you want to climb over the more flex and/or wheel travel suspension has to provide 1. No suspension I have yet to see and offroad vehicle without any type of suspension (except for maybe 42070, 42081 and 42082), but I will list my opinion regardless: Advantages: 1. Simple design - having no suspension simplifies our design...and that's about it Disadvantages: 1. No flex over terrain means, there are only 3 wheels at once touching the ground 2. Low stability 3. Poor weight distribution 4. No shock absorption at high speeds 2. Pendular suspension This is the simplest suspension you can put on your vehicle. It basically means one or more of your axles are free to swing about. When using this suspension I suggest using the small turntable where drive axle enters the axle. This will keep the drive axle from carrying the weight of the model, which causes unnecessary friction. 42030 is a typical example of this suspension system. Advantages: 1. Simple, robust design 2. Using this suspension on both axles can give the model very high flexibility 3. If there are no springs used, the model can have perfect weight distribution on left and right wheel Disadvantages: 1. Large unsprung weight, poor responsivness at high speeds 2. No shock absorption means this suspension is not suitable for high speeds 2. When using on one axle, the stability of the whole model relies on the unsuspended axle. 3. When using pendular suspension on both axles springs or a transfer mechanism are required to keep the model upright 3. Single torque tube suspension This suspension became available with the release of the 8110 Unimog. Best examples of this suspension are 8110, 9398 and 41999. It is the simplest suspension which also allows for vertical suspension movement. Advantages: 1. Simple, robust design 2. Universal joints can be placed inside the ball joint, allowing power to be transferred to the axle 3. Easy to implement Disadvantages: 1. Large unsprung weight, poor responsivness at high speeds 2. Axle requires a some kind of a linkage system to keep it cenetred (panhard or parallel links as seen above). 3. Using this suspension on the front axle usually results in negative caster angle which causes higher rolling resistance 4. When used on rear drive axle, the suspension has the tendency to cause oscillate, especially with soft suspension and high power 4. Hard to connect springs to the chassis 4. Double torque tube suspension This is an evolution of the single torque tube suspension, which uses two ball joints to drive each wheel side respectively. It is my own original idea. Advantages: 1. Simple, robust design 2. Universal joints can be placed inside the ball joint, allowing power to be transferred to the axle 3. Easy to implement 4. Self-cenetring, since axles are connected in the center there is no need for linkages to center it 5. Can carry power to each wheel side independently 6. Drive torque compensation Disadvantages: 1. Large unsprung weight, poor responsivness at high speeds 2. Using this suspension on the front axle usually results in negative caster angle which causes higher rolling resistance 3. When used on rear drive axle, the suspension has the tendency to cause oscillate, especially with soft suspension and high power 4. Hard to connect springs to the chassis 5. Parallel floating axle This suspension uses linkages which keep the axle parallel to the chassis of the model. For best functionality and reliability the lengths of all links and that of the double cardan joint should be equal. Also all the linkages and drive axles should be parallel. Advantages: 1. Keeping the axle parallel to the chassis reduces the oscillations effect 2. Better responsivness compared to the torque tubes 3. Neutral caster angle when used on front axles. 4. Self cenetring when using A arm as upper link or 4 link setup 5. Can be configured to carry power to each wheel side independently 6. If configured to carry power to each wheel side independently the drive torque can be compensated. 7. Easy to connect spring to the chassis Disadvantages: 1. High unsprung weight, less responsive at high speeds 2. Increased mechanical complexity, double cardan joints required to carry the power to the axle 6. Half axle independent suspension This is the simplest independent suspension you can build. Best example of such suspension are Tatra and Pinzgauer trucks. Advantages: 1. Independent suspension with low unspring weight, suitable for high speed 2. Robust design with low number of moving parts 3. Easy to connect spring to the chassis Disadvantages: 1. Changes of the caster angle as the wheels travel up and down 2. Hard to implement a drive system that does not carry the weight of the vehicle 3. Hard to implement steering system 4. Wheels tend to drag sideways on the ground when suspension travels up and down, reducing efficiency 7. Trailing arm parallel independent suspension Personally I have not used this suspension yet, but I did use a normal trailing arm suspension which does not keep the hubs parallel. Normal trailing arm suspension which does not keep the hubs parallel acts similarly to torque tube suspension. For the prallel version of the trailing suspension I imagine the following: Advantages: 1. Independent suspension with low unspring weight, suitable for high speed 2. Robust design with low number of moving parts 3. Long links allow for high suspension travel 4. Very easy to connect spring to the chassis 5. Can be configured to carry power to each wheel side independently Disadvantages: 1. Hard to keep the wheels from sagging under the weight of the model. 2. Difficult to transfer power to the wheels 8. Double wishbone suspension This suspension uses two A-shaped arms to keep the wheel hubs in place. As of late it's my favourite suspension system due to: Advantages: 1. Independent suspension with low unspring weight, suitable for high speed 2. Very customizable design with lots of adjustable characteristics (suspension arm lengths, caster angle, camber angle, steering geometries) 3. When build correctly it is far more robust than live axle suspension 4. Increased ground clearance compared to live axle suspension, especially when used with portal hubs 5. Can be configured to carry power to each wheel side independently 6. Extremely easy mounting of springs 7. Very stable compared to live axles 8. Frame holding the suspension can be part of the chassis, therebye lowering the center of gravity Disadvantages: 1. More moving parts as live axle suspension, increased mechanical complexity 2. Limited wheel travel - Lego wishbones allow a max. of around 25 degrees of suspension angle 9. Multi-link suspension To be updated when I build my first multi-link offroad suspension. I can assume the following characteristics: 1. Independent suspension with low unspuing weight, suitable for high speed 2. Extremely customizable design with lots of adjustable charactersitics (suspension arm lengths, caster angle, camber angle, steering geometries, virtual pivot point) 3. Large steering pivot point compensation 4. Increased ground clearance compared to live axle suspension, especially when used with portal hubs 5. Can be configured to carry power to each wheel side independently 6. Very stable compared to live axles 7. Frame holding the suspension can be part of the chassis, thereby lowering the center of gravity Disadvantages: 1. Very high amount of moving parts, increased mechanical complexity 2. Limited wheel travel - Lego wishbones allow a max. of around 25 degrees of suspension angle 3. Hard to connect springs to the chassis 10. Spring types Listed below are the most common types of springs available: 6.5L Soft shock absorber Advantages: 1. Small, easy to implement Disadvantages: 1. One stud of suspension travel 2. Low spring rate, can't support heavy models 6.5L Hard shock absorber 1. Small, easy to implement 2. High spring rate, can support heavy models Disadvantages: 1. One stud of suspension travel 9L soft shock absorber When using 9L shock absorbers I suggest you do not use the default offset upper attachment point, but use an in-line attachment point instead. This will reduce the friction and allow for better high speed performance Example: Advantages: 1. Two studs of suspension travel 2. More attachment possibilities than 6.5 L shock absorber Disadvantages: 1. Default attachment points create friction 2. Low spring rate, can't support heavy models 9L hard shock absorber Advantages: 1. Two studs of suspension travel 2. More attachment possibilities than 6.5 L shock absorber 3. High spring rate, can support heavy models Disadvantages: 1. Default attachment points create friction 2. Rare and expensive 11. Attaching springs to live axles If we start with basics, the first things we have to check is how position of springs affects suspension of live axles. The closer you place the springs together, the more flex the suspension will have, but it will also be less stable: I suggest you to keep springs at a distance of around 1/2 of the total model width. When placing springs you should keep them in-line with the wheel bearing in order to reduce friction. First example of bad spring placements: And example of good spring placement: When using multiple springs make sure to place them symmetrically centrred to the wheel hub: When attaching springs to torque tube suspension, you have to allow springs to tilt in two planes: You can also attach the springs to the suspension links to increase suspension travel. This technique is especially common on Trophy Trucks: 12. Attaching springs to independent suspension Independent suspension allows for much more flexible spring placement. Generally the closer you attach the spring to the main suspension arm pivot, the higher spring travel you get, but lower suspension force. Examples going from the hardest suspension with low travel to the softest with high travel: You can also attach springs inside the suspension arms: Or horizontally: As with the live axles make sure springs are in the center of the wishbones. Example of good placements: And an example of bad spring placement, which causes excessive friction and suspension binding: 5. Steering Steering is the system which allows our model to change direction. Generally there are two types of steering system used: 1. Skid steering Advantages: 1. Very simple to implement and control with two separate motors for left and right sided wheels. 2. Does not require a dedicated steering motor Disadvantages: 1. Not efficient, since wheels have to skid to steer 2. Power had to be reduced or even reversed in order to steer. 3. Not very accurate 4. Not very effective offroad 2. Classical steering with steerable wheels Advantages: 1. Efficient, with minimum loss of speed 2. Accurate 3. Does not reduce the power of the drive motors 4. Can be used in front, rear or all axles for tight steering radius or crab steering 5. Effective offroad Disadvantages: 1. Requires more complex hub assemblies 2. For best steering accuracy you need a dedicated servo motor. Examples of a simple classical steering system for live axles 1. Parallel steering system for live axles Here both hubs are always parallel. Position of the steering in the front or rear rack has no affect on the steering. Advantages: 1. Very simple and robust 2. Easy to build Disadvantages: 1. No Ackermann steering geometry 2. Steering rack moves inwards as it steers, requiring more space. 2. Ackermann steering system for live axles This system allows the hubs to steer at different rates. The steering arms are offset inside so they form a virtual steering point where at the point where lines meet. Advantages: 1. Better steering performance Disadvantages: 1. More complex assembly 2. Steering rack moves inwards as it steers, requiring more space. 3. Steering system with diagonal linkages This system acts similar as Ackermann steering system by using diagonal steering links. Advantages: 1. Better steering performance 2. Steering rack only has to move in one direction without sideways movements 3. Can be configured to be used in front or the rear of the axle. Disadvantages: 1. More complex assembly 4. Simple steering system for independent suspension 1. Very simple and robust 2. Easy to build 3. Can be even more robust when using double steering racks and links 4. Steering rack only has to move in one direction without sideways movements Disadvantages: 1. No Ackermann steering geometry 5. Ackermann steering system for independent suspension Advantages: 1. Better steering performance 2. Steering rack only has to move in one direction without sideways movements Disadvantages: 1. More complex assembly, less robust. 3. General steering tips 1. When using independent suspension always make sure your links are paralel to the suspension arms, otherwise you may end up with wheels which are not parallel and are causing excessive friction: 2. When using standard portal hubs make sure your steering system is robust enough to deal with the forces generated by wheel driving into obstacles. 3. If possible use servo motors which allow for high steering precision and return to center. They are especially useful at high speed models. 4. Most efficient way to steer the wheels is using the steering racks. 5. Build axles in such way they have positive caster angle, example for direction of travel from right to left. This will self-center your wheels and reduce rolling resistance. 6. Drivelines Drivelines are the responsible for transferring the power from the motors to the wheels. There are various drivelines you can build, here I listed few with their characteristics: Driveline types 1. Permanent 4x4 Advantages: 1. Simple, centralized, low mechanical complexity 2. Wheels are always powered, great offroad performance 3. Light weight Disadvantages: 1. Poor steering radius 2. Tyres have to skid when steering, lowering efficiency of the model 2. 4x4 with open differentials Typical example of this driveline is 42070 Advantages: 1. Differentials allow the wheels to so spin at different rates when steering 2. Very efficient since wheels don't have to skid when steering Disadvantages: 1. If one wheel loses traction, all the power is transfereed to it, poor offroad performance 3. 4x4 with lockable differentials Advantages: 1. Differentials allow the wheels to so spin at different rates when steering 2. Very efficient since wheels don't have to skid when steering 3. All differentials can be locked, so wheels are powered for great offroad performance Disadvantages: 1. Higher mechanical complexity 2. Dedicated motor is required to actuate differential locks, higher weight 4. Axle mounted motors Typical example of this driveline are 9398 and 41999. Advantages: 1. Differentials allow the wheels to so spin at different rates when steering 2. Very efficient since wheels don't have to skid when steering 3. If one wheel gets off the ground the second axle can still pull/push the model. Disadvantages: 1. Higher mechanical complexity 2. Usually the rear axle motor is more loaded than the front, especially when climbing uphill, the motors can't "help" each other. 3. Worse offroad performance than permanent 4x4 5. H drive: This is my favourite driveline due to the following reasons: Advantages: 1. Motors allow the wheels to so spin at different rates when steering 2. Model can skid steer 3. Very efficient since wheels don't have to skid when steering normally 4. Having 2 drivelines allows you to carry more torque to the wheels 5. Redundancy, even if one drive fails the model can still move 6. Wheels are always powered, great offroad performance Disadvantages: 1. Higher mechanical complexity 2. Slightly higher weight 6. Wheel motor drive Each motor powers a wheel independently. Advantages: 1. Motors allow the wheels to so spin at different rates when steering 2. Model can skid steer 3. Very efficient since wheels don't have to skid when steering normally 4. Redundancy, even if one or more motors fails the model can still move 6. Lower mechanical complexity Disadvantages: 1. Motors can't "help" each other 2. Higher weight due to a higher motor count Transferring power axially When transferring power via axles, you can reduce the flex by using connectors instead of simple "bare" axle: Use axles with stops to prevent them from sliding out of gears: Where possible always brace tooth gears from both sides: Transferring power at an angle Where pairs of U joints are used, make sure to align them to eliminate vibrations: Brick built CV joint which can transfer high torque at over 30 degrees angle Brick built cardan joint which can transfer extremely high torque up to 15 degrees angle Brick built flexible drive which can transfer medium high torque, extract and retract, suitable for low angles Transferring power perpendicularly The following perpendicular gearboxes are the best suitable for transferring high torque Avoid knob and worm gears, because they waste energy Gearboxes In my models I generally use the following gearboxes: 1:3 differential gearbox Advantages: 1. Very high gear ratio between low and high gear, 1:3 2. Capable of transferring high torque 3. Very efficient since only 2 gears are used at any time Disadvantages: 1. Takes a lot of space 2. This gearbox requires a good housing to brace the gears properly Compact two speed gearbox Advantages: 1. High gear ratio between low and high gear, 1:2,77 2. Capable of transferring high torque 3. Very efficient since only 2 gears are used at any time 4. Very compact design Disadvantages: 1. Requires two of the rare 20 tooth clutch gears 2. More complex shifter assembly. Diagonal gearbox Advantages: 1. High number of gears 2. High gear ratio possible, over 4:1 2. Capable of transferring high torque 3. Very efficient since only 2 gears are used at any time Disadvantages: 1. Takes a lot of space 2. Input and output axles are not parallel. 3. A complex shifting assembly is required for sequential operation. Driveline effect on suspension Transferring torque on the wheels can affect the suspension, especially when live axles are used. The following photo shows how the torque causes one side of the axle to push down and the other to lift up: In order to minimize this effect I suggest the following: 1. Make sure to have most if not all the downgearing inside the axles, so you do not need high torque going to the axles. 2. Make sure your models have a low center of gravity 3. You can eliminate this effect by using two counte rotating axles which cancel each other's torque, example below: 7. Motors and control Following are the most common types of motors used for Lego models. You can find more info here: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm My personal favourites are L and RC motors due to the balanced output speed to torque ration and great mounting options. 1. PF-M Advantages: 1. High speed output 2. Smallest available motor 3. Cheap and available Disadvantages: 1. Low torque 2. Poor mounting options 2. PF-L Advantages: 1. High speed output 2. High torque 3. Cheap and available 4. Great mounting options Disadvantages: 1. Odd shape 3. PF-XL Advantages: 1. Very high torque 3. Cheap and available 4. Good mounting options Disadvantages: 1. Slow speed output 2. Large form factor 4. PF-Servo Advantages: 1. Very high torque 2. Very precise output with 15 positions 3. Good mounting options Disadvantages: 1. Slow speed output 2. Output axle can move a max of 180 degrees 3. Large form factor 4. Hard to find 5. 9V-RC motor Advantages: 1. Most oowerful Lego motor 2. Very high speed output 3. Good mounting options 4. Two output axles with different gearing ratios 5. Drive axles can pass through the motor Disadvantages: 1. Low output torque 2. Low efficiency 3. Power hungry 4. Odd form factor 5. Hard to find and expensive Power options 1. PF - AA battery box Advantages: 1. High capacity 2. Good mounting options 3. Works with rechargeable batteries, but with lower performance 4. Cheap and easy to find Disadvantages: 1. 750mA current limit - not enough to fully power RC motor 2. Heavy 3. Has to be removed and opened to replace batteries 4. Wasteful 5. Odd form factor 2. PF - LiPo battery box Advantages: 1. Small form factor 2. Light weight 3. Easy to recharge Disadvantages: 1. 750mA current limit - not enough to fully power RC motor 2. Low capacity 3. Studded design 4. Expensive and hard to find 3. RC control unit Advantages: 1. No current limit - can power 2RC motors at once 2. 3 Power levels 3. Has integrated steering output with 7 positions 4. Good mounting options 5. Easy battery replacement 6. Radio based control Disadvantages: 1. Poor quality, prone to breaking 2. Limited angle (45 degrees) and torque from the steering output 3. Has to be removed and opened to replace batteries 4. Very large form factor 5. Expensive and hard to find 6. Heavy 7. Required dedicated antennas and remote Control options 1. PF receiver and controller Advantages: 1. Receiver is easy to integrate into the model 2. Controllers have physical feedback 3. Cheap and easy to find Disadvantages: 1. IR based, low range, useless outside 2. Lack of PWM motor control, unless using train controller which is awkward to use 3. Odd form factor for use with steering 2. RC control unit See above 3. Third party options such as BuWizz and Sbrick Advantages: 1. Smaller form factors, easy to integrate into model 2. More outputs than PF system 3. Smooth control of motors 4. High range thanks to Bluetooth control 5. Higher power available with BuWizz 6. Customizable profiles Disadvantages: 1. Smart device is required 2. No physical feedback 3. Sbrick is limited by PF battery box 4. Price 8. Chassis Chasis is the backbone of your model which olds everything together. For chassis I suggest you to use the following components in order to make it strong and robust enough to deal with the stresses involved when crawling or driving at high speed: Some flex in the chassis might be a good thing to improve offroad capability, but only if id does not affect the driveline and cause friction on the drive axles. Remeember to use diagonal support, since triangles are the strongest shapes. You can also use panels and motors as structural support. Interlocking your chassis will keep it from slipping apart. For good examples of chassis designs I suggest you check the instructions for 9398 and 42083.
  5. Hi this is my first post and I'm just getting back into Technic at 33yrs old after quite a few years away (work, marriage, kids etc.) I've been building the Bugatti Chiron and have just reached the end of the first book. I think I may have done something wrong as the wheels are very loose. I assumed it would get sorted out later but I've skipped ahead to see how it is resolved and it doesn't seem to be. I've fitted the calipers and wheels early to see if that helps but no. Before fitting the brakes, there seemed to be nothing holding the disks into the hub, they have so much movement that the driveshafts often fall out. This doesn't happen with the brake calipers fitted but it seems like they are the only thing holding the wheels on and they are still very loose! Like a car with broken hub bearings. Have I done something wrong? (I've searched and can't find this issue so thinking it's just me) Is there a step I haven't noticed in book 2? Is this just how it is? Any help would be appreciated. Edit: Well.. I've been pretty stupid! I've just removed the wheels to photograph the problem and one of them was fixed! The pressure of putting the wheels on must have 'clicked' the disk into the hub. It's funny, I couldn't get it to do that when I first assembled it and didn't think it looked like it clicked in. So... I'd delete this thread except can't see how.. Mods could do it maybe?
  6. Hello, I want to share with you my first creation after 20 years in dark ages without lego Inspired by official lego model 42005 Monster Truckgreat color designoptimized for playabilityenhanced functions:* better steering radius (only front axle steering) new functions:* reel with hook* tilting trunk* openable gull-wing dooras any other tracked vehicle on hard floors it lacks, better play with it on carpetor as an alternative use big wheels (41896 43.2 x 26 Technic Racing wheel + 45982 Tyre 81.6 x 38 R Balloon) Side by side comparission with 42005 (with wheels and tyres) 130 pages of generated instructions for intermediate level builder (A4 landscape orientation) full gallery + instructions sample: https://bricksafe.com/pages/klimax/monster-truck-42005-alternate-42038-c-model moc details + instructions on https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-19398/klimax/monster-truck
  7. Hi all, since 7777 book came out, I've always wanted to integrate Trains and Technic worlds. Back in the 80's the problem was the complete lack of train wheels with a Technic axle hole. It was solved with RC trains a lot of years later. Therefore, I can convert a 9v train to PF without too many problems (aesthetically speaking). But for 12V trains it is different. Wheels are made in a specific way, they have the hole for connecting rods, they're more "fat" than RC/PF wheels. Frankly, I do not like 12V trains converted to 9V/PF standard bogies. But I like the PF motor, its speed, the possibility to increase speed gradually...and the fact it keeps the central hole for third wheel. So, in these years I repaired a lot of 12V motors...and some were really in bad shape. Look at the right wheel, it is completely destroyed inside. So I decided to try to implement my solution to connect standard, intact 12V wheels to technic axleholes (which I do not list here, since it was not satisfying). First, I got a standard Technic bush, and cut it a bit. Then I put it inside the damaged wheel hole. It fits fine, but needs to be glued. Once glued, it is time for some testing. The 6-long axle goes right in - but the red ring coming out from the wheel is too thick. So I prepared another wheel (gray bush). This time I cut the bush a bit shorter and fits right. The 5.5 axle is perfect , so I'll need to cut two 6-long axles to the right lenght. And this is the result - this is my 7740 no°3, totally converted to PF. It works fine, but as you all can imagine, it is all made by hand and bushes are not machinery-centered. Therefore the locomotive is not stable as I would like. For the moment, better than nothing!
  8. TECHNIC WACKY WHEELS CONTEST After a fierce battle bots competition it's time for a less serious competition. How about a Virtual Race through LEGO City using Wacky Wheels?! DESCRIPTION The Wacky Wheels competition is loosely based on the 1994 Arcade game by Apogee, which strongly puts the emphasis on fun instead of realism, both in looks and gameplay. Each contestant needs to have a wacky vehicle to participate in the most ludicrous race of the year. And you will be designing and building that vehicle! The first requirement for the vehicle is that it needs to have wheels or treads, since it is a road race! Your vehicle can be anything you want (also a boat, plane, etc), but it needs to have wheels, since it's a driving contest. The second requirement is that it needs to have at least one wacky function besides driving and steering. This function can be anything to gain an advantage in the race. Of course it can also be function to hinder your opponent. Anything goes! Thanks to Erik Leppen for pitching this idea DEADLINE Deadline date is Monday 16th of October, 2017. Contest will be closed on Tuesday 17th of October, OR LATER. Disclaimer: I will close the contest when I see fit and when I have the time to process the results. This can be later than the deadline date. Please don't complain about this not being fair and all. RULES AND REGULATIONS The following section describes the contest specific and general rules and regulations. But before that, please take notice of a simple motto regarding the Eurobricks Contests: CONTESTS ARE FOR FUN! Of course there's competition, but at the end of the day, LEGO is just a hobby and the main goal for each of us is to have fun! CONTEST SPECIFIC RULES AND REGULATIONS Each vehicle needs to have a WACKY NAME (no name, no entry). Each vehicle needs to have at least a WACKY FUNCTION (besides steering and driving). Your vehicle needs to have WHEELS and be able to drive. It can be a plane, boat, etc, but it still needs to drive during the competition. Your vehicle needs to be able to STEER. Only OFFICIAL LEGO PARTS. 3rd party STRINGS, HOSES and RUBBER BANDS are permitted. NO 3rd party tires. There is NO size limit. Model Team style building IS allowed. GENERAL RULES AND REGULATIONS The contest is open to all EB members (also new members). Members who joined EB after the start of the contest can be banned from voting (when vote rigging is suspected). Voting rules will be explained later in the voting topic. One entry per member. Entries need to be new (never posted anywhere previously or shown at an event/LUG meeting). Only physical builds, so no LDD or other virtual entry. If you have any doubts about the suitability of your entry contact me, or Milan. All entries are to include only real LEGO. No clone brands, 3rd party parts, or digital entries allowed. Custom stickers are allowed. No cutting, sculpting or modifying parts. Entries are to be placed in the entry topic in this forum. Entries not in the entry topic are not eligible for voting. The entry post may be edited at any time up to the end of the contest, so feel free to make improvements if you wish. The contest might be closed later than the deadline. Don't complain about this not being fair. You have enough time to build. Don't ask for more time. We reserve the right to disqualify any entry that does not follow these rules. These rules can be changed whenever we see fit to ensure that people follow the intent of the contest. Staff members are Jim is not eligible for winning prizes. WHAT DO I NEED TO ENTER? All participant need to create a discussion topic and create a post in the entry topic. DISCUSSION TOPIC A discussion topic starting with [TC12]. A discussion topic needs to show some actual progress (i.e. pictures of the build in progress) and should NOT be used to "reserve an idea". ENTRY POST The entry post in the entry topic should contain: Entry name. Short description explaining the function(s). One or more pictures (max 3 of max 1024x1024). Embedded video (mandatory). Link to the discussion topic. VOTING The voting criteria will be: Originality & Wackiness. Looks (shape, color scheme etc). Quality of the build. Functionality. PRIZES The LEGO Group is so kind to provide the Top-3 contestants with a great Technic set. And of course, we will be so kind to award you with eternal fame and a medal tag.
  9. TECHNIC WACKY WHEELS CONTEST RESULTS Congratulations to all the winners! I will contact the top-3 to handle the prizes (Technic sets provided by the LEGO CEE team hurray). 1st Highflyer by Leonard Goldstein Discussion topic 2nd The Mean Machine by Charbel Discussion topic 3rd Uno's Car: His Fortressness by MegaRoi Discussion topic PRIZE WINNERS1. Highflyer by Leonard Goldstein - 368 Points (entry 9)2. The Mean Machine by Charbel - 285 Points (entry 20)3. Uno's Car: His Fortressness by MegaRoi - 273 Points (entry 18)CONTEST RESULTS1. Highflyer by Leonard Goldstein - 368 Points (entry 9)2. The Mean Machine by Charbel - 285 Points (entry 20)3. Uno's Car: His Fortressness by MegaRoi - 273 Points (entry 18)4. The Boydell Stomper by Doug72 - 230 Points (entry 2) 5. The Unrollable by kodlovag - 215 Points (entry 10)6. The Toaster by Thirdwigg - 165 Points (entry 22)7. The Banana Scorpion by mocbuild101 - 164 Points ( entry 11)8. Arachne by Erik Leppen - 118 Points (entry 15) 9. The Stretched Slicer by RohanBeckett - 113 Points (entry 17)10. Fire Ant by Didumos69 - 109 Points (entry 1)11. The Crimson Demolition-Mobile by heyitsdisty - 69 Points (entry 12)12. Carniveil by MangaNOID - 67 Points (entry 7)13. Formula De Vil by Superkoala - 63 Points (entry 3)14. Avalunch 2002 by HorcikDesigns - 45 Points (entry 8)15. Formula Punch by deehtha - 42 Points (entry 14)16. Road Breaker by Carsten Svendsen - 33 Points (entry 16)17. Overkill by Offroadcreat1ons - 31 Points (entry 23)18. Dual-Shot mk2 by Aventador2004 - 23 Points (entry 13)19. Scorpion R5 by MattL600 - 21 Points (entry 24)20. KitchenWarerior by cyberdyne systems - 18 Points (entry 19)21. Baby Bomber Buggy by Marxpek - 17 Points (entry 21)22. The Dragomoto by Technonsense - 14 Points (entry 6)23. The Big Racoon by MikeTwo9398 - 9 Points (entry 4)24. Jack the Lifter by msk6003 - 4 Points (entry 5)25. Kid Cash's Caster Cube by thekitchenscientist - 0 Points (entry 25) JURY RESULTS As promised I will disclose the jury votes. Jury consisted of 5 members, each 26 points, which have been doubled and added to the public score. 9: 702: 4818: 4611: 2817: 2420: 2223: 815: 419: 46: 216: 224: 2
  10. WACKY WHEELS CONTEST - VOTING TOPIC Voting will be open for at variable period of time. Closing date will most likely be somewhere between one and two weeks. VOTING RULES AND REGULATIONS Voting scheme uses the old Formula One style point distribution (10, 6, 4, 3, 2 and 1 POINT) You need to assign 10 points to the 1st place, 6 points to the second and so one. You need to vote for 6 ENTRIES (no more, no less) Clearly mention the ENTRY NUMBER and the NUMBER OF POINTS per entry that you vote on. If you joined Eurobricks after the start of the contest, you can be banned from voting (when vote rigging is suspected) You may NOT vote for your own entry. In the event of a tie for any place the Technic Staff will decide which entry wins. Our decision is final. Questions about voting can be asked in the Discussion Topic. For example (entries randomly chosen): --- comments can be placed above the votes 5: 10 (no comments here please) 6: 6 1: 4 9: 3 7: 2 3: 1 Or comments can be placed below the votes ---- NOTES Please use this exact notation NUMBER: VOTES (with a colon). Please don't type #1:10, 1 = 10 or 1) 10 or other notations. Stick to the example format shown above. Please use this thread only for voting. You may explain why you made your choice, but any general discussion should take place in the Discussion Topic. Comments should be placed ABOVE or BELOW the votes. Please don't comment on the same line as the votes. VOTING The voting criteria are: Originality & Wackiness. Looks (shape, color scheme etc). Quality of the build. Functionality. ENTRIES All entries can be found in the entry thread: Please visit the entry topic to see all entries. 1. Fire Ant by Didumos69 2. The Boydell Stomper by Doug72 3. Formula De Vil by Superkoala 4. The Big Racoon by MikeTwo9398 5. Jack the Lifter by msk6003 6. The Dragomoto by Technonsense 7. Carniveil by MangaNOID 8. Avalunch 2002 by HorcikDesigns 9. Highflyer by Leonard Goldstein 10. The Unrollable by kodlovag 11. The Banana Scorpion by mocbuild101 12. The Crimson Demolition-Mobile by heyitsdisty 13. Dual-Shot mk2 by Aventador2004 14. Formula Punch by deehtha 15. Arachne by Erik Leppen 16. Road Breaker by Carsten Svendsen 17. The Stretched Slicer by RohanBeckett 18. Uno's Car: His Fortressness by MegaRoi 19. KitchenWarerior by cyberdyne systems 20. The Mean Machine by Charbel 21. Baby Bomber Buggy by Marxpek 22. The Toaster by Thirdwigg 23. Overkill by Offroadcreat1ons 24. Scorpion R5 by MattL600 25. Kid Cash's Caster Cube by thekitchenscientist Good luck!
  11. Paknaloid

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  12. Technonsense

    [TC12] The Dragomoto

    Hi, I present to you: The Dragomoto The functions are: - driving (XL motor) - steering (M motor) - functions of the dragon (M motor) which is: - flapping main wings. - lifting tail up and down. - flapping tail fins All functions are powered via RC. This model is relatively small and compact and contains only 764 pieces. I will send more pictures and updates later. Hope you enjoy it!
  13. Eddie_Young

    OD-CX

    I was thinking about what I could do with the newly acquired bucket wheel excavator parts. Something that I couldn't build without these big yellow circles. That's how this strange idea came to be. The arms are motorized: they grab or drill and retract into the wheels. The compact and functional hand is my favourite part of the robot The two-wheel design makes it wobble a lot. Someone on youtube commented that it's headbanging to the music - genius!!! I might try making one with adjustable wheel angles next! Any suggestions? Check it out on LEGO Ideas!!!
  14. dr_spock

    Train Wheels Make It Better

    Season's Greetings. I started a little project at the beginning of December to see if train wheels make it better like the way bacon makes things better. It's a daily photo project of my MOCs and MODs spiced up with train wheels. I made it past one week milestone so I think the track is cleared to post up the first week's work. I plan to keep chugging along until Christmas assuming I don't run out of steam. Rail Car by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail Landspeeder by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail School Bus by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail Pirate Boats by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail Horse Wagon by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail Police Boat by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail Farm Tractor by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Rail Courier by dr_spock_888, on Flickr
  15. I am looking to build a MOC and want to use drivers either equal in scale the PRR's T1 or larger in scale. I believe BBB XL drivers are still too small, so what is the next best option? Here are a few I was thinking of: 1) Contacting BBB and trying to get a custom set of deivers made. 2) Contacting the custom siderods guy and getting a custom,set of drivers made. 3) Purchasing Lionel T1 wheels and modifying a few bricks to use them. 1 and 2 will be pricey, but it will be closer to true lego. 3 will add weight, improve traction, and reduce derails at high speed, but will need to modify lego brick. Other suggestions welcome!
  16. One day occasionaly i found interesting thing - 3 wheeled Bell loader nad then i made something similar to it, because i made it full RC with 4 motors M and L for driving ( i don't have two of one type, but those have the same rpm and power also is almost the same) XL for manipulator servo for switching between lifting arm and that thing which grabs logs
  17. Well, I've got a bunch of ideas and other random things, as I am building more often, so rather than make a dedicated thread for every off the cuff thing or proof of concept I turn out, I'm just going to compile it here. The first item is a proof of concept chassis for a Gottwald crane, which I meant to be an AK-912, but there are many different models that have a similar chassis, including the AMK-1000, and the AK-680. It's a WIP, but I have other projects I want to finish first, so I made this, and am currently working on an LDD file. Once that file is finished, this thing will be taken apart, so I can use the pieces for other projects, and once I am ready to give this my all, I will use the LDD file to rebuild it. Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr The model is meant to be like an official set, like 42043, meaning one motor, and no RC. The chassi has a V-12 engine, like the real thing, and 8 wheel drive, with a single middle differential. I found that given how far apart the axles are, a differential is required between the 2 sets of driven axles. The different angle between the steering axles is achieved by a diagonal beam, which is very effective. There is almost no backlash, and the axles are in sync automatically. Also, due to how it works, the axles are set to the correct angle relative to each other automatically, due to how it is built, without any calculations. Another picture of the front unit: Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr In addition, the chassis can be separated into three parts, like the real thing. Seperate by Saberwing007, on Flickr Although the steering on the front and rear units works well, it's connecting the two that has proven problematic. I blame lack of stiffness in the middle reversing linkage, and using friction pins for every steering connection. But, for now, this is finished. I will get back to it later, I don't know how much later, though.
  18. I need suggestion with my car. I have images below of what I have so far. A few questions. What springs should I use. Hard or soft? What wheels or tires? And I need ideas on how to complete it. So far my axle has working steering and a driveshaft connected. I don't know what to do next as I am a new technic builder. If any more information or pictures are needed please tell me :) Images: http://imgur.com/a/QbhXw
  19. A Full Blown Engine, Visible Transmission, Retractable Hood, Adjustable Wheel, Repair Tools - these are just some of the specs of the new Hot Rod 27! If you enjoy my project and you'd like to see it on the shelves, please support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/129293 The Story: I've always loved inventing new Lego toys. A few years ago I began building a custom hot rod. I wanted to make a car that would not only look good, but that would also be realistic. That's how I gave it a transmission that goes from the full blown engine to the front wheels, as shown in the video: A few days ago I found out about Lego Ideas and I wanted to submit my car, but I had new ideas. I wanted to make it more playable. That's how I came up with the retractable hood and the adjustable wheel. I made it so that a minifigure is able to enter the cockpit and drive the car, and even wear a helmet. Furthermore, I added some tools near the cockpit, in case the engine malfunctions or there's a flat tire. It also has front lights and tail lights, a radiator in the front, lateral exhaust pipes, adjustable engine pistons, rear-view mirrors, a big gas tank and slick, wide tires in the back. Dimensions: 14 x 7 x 4 cm ( approximately ) With about 140 pieces, the Hot Rod 27 can become an affordable and easy to build custom car!
  20. Just Wanted to Share My Custom Wheels For The Wheel Loader . What Do You Guys Think ?
  21. I just discovered something wrong with the new wheels (wheel 56mm D. x 34mm), what do you think?. The first ones on the video are the new ones.
  22. Hi all. I've just come across this wonderful model by someone called Michael gale. https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/michaelgale/15266799517/ (can't add a photo via mobile sorry). I've got lots of track from my younger days and seeing this I'm tempted to get back into trains. So where would I start? Where do I get the wheels and are there any instructions online for anything similar to get me started? I'd like to power it using the 'old' wheel unit (via the tender?). The ones from around the mid 90 ' s as that's what I have. On a budget so would prefer to use these new fangled infrared things if possible. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ☺
  23. Has anyone got some 6595 and 22253 rims on which they could do some accurate measurements (you'll probably need a set of calipers, but at a push a ruler might do it) for me? I'm trying to see if I can shoehorn some Tamiya Lunchbox (3rd party) tyres onto them; I'd need to use 2 hubs per tyre so that's a total of 8 hubs and 4 tyres that I don't want to pay for if they're not going to fit! I need the diameters of: The smaller outer rim The larger outer rim on the other side The inner rim The groove that the tyre sits in To the nearest 0.5mm would do. If it looks positive, I'll buy everything and if they fit I will report back; it would mean that we could all have realistic looking monster truck tyres without having to fork out for power puller tyres :) Thanks
  24. Has anyone a part list of Lego pieces that you can use as wheel?, gears, wheels, round bricks, group of parts, radars, etc. It would be nice to have one ordered by size.
  25. Hello all, I was planning on ordering some 8880 wheels, and I noticed the Bricklink image was most definitely grey, and there is no record of any being sold in grey or any existing for that matter. Does anyone know why or how that is the Bricklink picture?