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Found 74 results

  1. dr_spock

    MOD: 60052 Cargo Train

    I bought and assembled 60052 Cargo Train. The holes on the top of the engine bother me so I wanted to cover them up. I ended up making a bunch other modifications along the way: Added Power Function LED ditch lights Changed style of radiator grills Added air intake grills Added dynamic brake grills Moved fan #1 forward for dynamic brakes Moved fans #2 and #3 further back Added exhaust port Covered up unnecessary openings in the roof Changed to smaller sized horns Changed style of fuel tank Switched doors around so they are no longer suicide doors Added dual transclear stud lights to back Changed bley brack in front roof to black I guess it looks a bit like an EMD GP38 now. Please excuse my messy building table. 60052 MOD by dr_spock_888, on Flickr
  2. I had a spare truss bridge model lying around and thought it could use a revamp. Then I thought of the turntable I had designed, and realized it could use a transfer table companion model. Thus, this transfer table was finished just today. The whole table moves on four wheels at the edges and three guide-ways in the center. The model sits on four vintage 32 x 32 stud base-plates arranged in a square. I'm currently thinking about slicing up what's left of a gray 48 x 48 into a strip for the leading tracks to rest on. The height from the track to the top of the truss-work is a hair shorter than 13 1/3 bricks tall, which is tall enough for most locomotives but not enough for cabooses, extra-tall double stacked container cars and double-decker lounge cars. The length of the table is four tracks long, which is plenty for any of my single-unit locomotives or official LEGO models. (Diesel cab and booster units will have to be split up to fit, however.) In progress shot of me loading a 4-8-2 steam locomotive onto the table. Lining up the tracks as perfect as can be is key to keeping the loco on the rails and steady! Moving any loco sideways is easy enough to do with one hand... lining it up and rolling the engine off, however, needs steady two hands and a good eye. A better pic of it lined up at the shed track after unloading the steamer. Please NOTE: There is a two stud gap (and a bit of incline) between table and lead-in track: It is NOT 100% flat! Comments, suggestions, complaints, and compliments are always welcome!
  3. https://youtu.be/UFPNWZeeXQw Lego Pneumatic Engine. What is it? How to make it? The first it needs to finish Lego fake cylinder like in this video https://youtu.be/HcHneyewATE or https://youtu.be/0aZvWva41Ek. The second - to add o-ring to Lego piston like in this video https://youtu.be/wZu-l32Dajw or .
  4. Hi! I haven't been very active here for a while, but I was busy "working" on some LDD models and revising them. Some of you might have seen them already on my flickr photostream. I also got to render my models for the first time Ok, I'll show you the pics My revised BR Standard Class 9F "Evening Star" I borrowed codefox421's coaches to try on the 9F (all credit for the coaches goes to him, here is the link to his topic: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=97927 ) I also revised my GWR 14xx, but that'll be part of another topic soon Then I also rendered and (re) designed some rolling stock: From top left to bottom right: Cattle Wagon Tank Wagon Well Wagon Vent Van GWR 16 Ton Toad Brake Van BR 20 Ton Brake Van (brown livery) BR 20 Ton Brake Van (grey and yellow livery) I also designed a water tower: and a modular train station. This is one section: You can make it bigger: and build a pretty decent station: The station has too many parts to be rendered And another station building: I hope you enjoyed it Comments and criticisms are welcome! Greetings, Nick P.S.: You can see higher resolution pics on my flickr: http://www.flickr.co...s/94645638@N07/
  5. This type of geared type loco is called a "Shay" (specifically a type "A", which means two pistons and two trucks) and were named after their original inventor of the type, Ephraim Shay. These loco's could only go about 20 miles per hour (or about 32 Kilometers per hour, if that's your thing) at top speed, and were very steady on rough track, hauling logging and mining trains up grades that would easily stall conventional steamer types. You can read more about Shay geared steam locomotive's at Wikipedia. Please NOTE: The design of the original Shay I redid into my version was by Stephan Pakbaz over on Flickr, as seen below. (His LDD file allowed me to build my version) as seen here. The 1 x 1 tiles on either side of the coal bunker are supposed to be printed with the number "4" The Shay type only has pistons on one side, with the other side being kinda sparsely decorated. Usually, their would be various accessories and such on this side, but i liked it better devoid of any clutter. The Shay geared steam loco bends in a odd way... but at least it works. NOTE: The angle shown is quite a bit more severe curve than the loco will ever have to handle.... but it looks pretty cool! This raw ore car was modeled after a custom Brick Link item by @wildchicken13 except mine is narrower and uses two wheels for a Wild West flair. You can see the original item that inspired me here. The caboose follows my standard pattern for my Western trains, with only a few color swaps and a missing cupola on top to set it apart from the others. Here we see the mining train consisting of four silver ore cars and a caboose, without the Shay. This is my latest (and most likely last) Western styled train, and it will join my other four steamers and their trains in my Wild West collection sometime later in 2018. (The reason I say "last" is that I've run out of railroad-related ideas for my Wild Western layout and am planning on focusing on the updated Native American camp, revised Fort Legoredo and the remaining frontier town buildings after this.) As you may have suspected, the ore the mining train holds comes from my well-protected silver mine, which can be seen in it's own topic. ...and as usual, comments, questions, complaints and suggestions are always welcome!
  6. Here's my newest creation, digital format for now but I'll build it next month when I return from vacation. It's a whopping 7200 bricks not counting the landscape. Thanks to @PeterPNL for the landscape and minifigs and thanks to @maciej_drwiega for the door and window inspiration. Here's the .lxf if anyone wants it. https://bricksafe.com/pages/sed6 Hope you like!
  7. Hi After some fiddling I came up with this idea for a single crank W16 engine: Each crank uses a #3 connector to comepnsate for the piston offsets: And Finally the top view of the engine: Hopefully someone can build this baby in real life and provide feedback LDD file: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/w16-engine/W16 engine.lxf
  8. Since the new 2018 Hogwarts Express is lacking in realism, (lackluster pistons and two wheel coaches?) I decided to revised my custom version with ideas from the set, including (hopefully printed) 1x4 curve tiles with Hogwarts Castle printed on them. The locomotive is a heavily modified version of LDDModelmaker's Black 5 model with some parts from set 79111, Constitution Train Chase. The tender features a three wheeled bogie design modified from the one in Anthony Sava's ALCO MRS-1. The middle axle moves side to side, as to allow going through switches and curves without issue. The numbers 5 9 7 2 go on the sides of the cab, while HOGWARTS RAILWAYS goes on the tender in printed black 1 x 1 tiles. The boiler should featured a printed 4 x 4 dish as the front. The inside of the cab features two gauges and the firebox. In this false-color image, the red parts slide, the blue ones stay put to allow for the loco to go around curves and switches. (BTW: There are parts underneath that keep the sliding bogie from falling out.) The baggage / coach car is known as a combine. NOTE: All the doors can open on each of the cars. three regular BR mark I coaches The guard coach is a car that features a place for the conductor to rest and count tickets. On this train, the coaches are empty inside so the compartments are only fictional. The train is currently made up of five cars that are slightly different than the actual British Railway MK I coaches used in the films. The Hogwarts Express is usually made up of four corridor passenger coaches, although sometimes a special fifth coach is attached with an open floor plan. Also, the end car is not accurate to the films, but is what I prefer to the alternative: a gangway leading nowhere with no red light on the end. In-universe / Film History for the Hogwarts Express: Leaving from Kings Cross' Platform 9 & 3/4 to Hogsmeade Station at exactly 9 AM, the Hogwarts Express carries students (and sometimes faculty) to and from Hogwarts' School of Witchcraft & Wizardry in the Harry Potter series of books and movies. It has been seen in every Harry Potter film, from it's first appearance in the beginning of Philosophers Stone to it's (so far) last at the end of Deathly Hallows. (part two) The Hogwarts Express is usually only in the film for a short while, and it is generally a pleasant journey from Kings Cross to Hogsmeade, although Harry Potter, Ron Weasley and a certain Flying Ford Anglia might beg to differ! As usual, comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints are always welcome!
  9. Hi All, im currently in the throes of building a transverse fwd Lego moc. It’s in its early stages at the mo, it it has an ultra 4 speed gearbox, engine and differential all mounted transversely. Ive still to do a bit of work on the gear selector to make it a little easier, but here’s a small video of it in its current state if if you see bits of your Lego Design in this model, thanks for the inspiration
  10. Redimus

    Modified Emerald Night

    OK, so I have never made any secret that I think Emerald Night is crap. Odd proportions, terrible tender, complete lack of understanding of what several parts actually represent, looking *nothing* like the source material,.... I also know (from bitter experience) how difficult (and expensive) making a decent replacement is. After having built some really nice Pullmans, and building a disappointing pacific (which was miles better than EN), taking it apart, starting again, running out of inspiration, then getting made jobless so I couldn't afford to buy bits had I come up with an improved design, I decided to finally do something about my Emerald Night that had been sat in a corner with no wheels for at least 2 years. Things that I wanted to change: Give the front a footplate. Use the cylinder fix. Do something about that god awful (lack of) dome. Raise the cab so it doesn't look too daft with my coaches. Build a completely new tender (seriously, f**k that tender, that city cattle wagon was less lazy). Add lights and S Brick (which I had done a long while ago). So here are the results: Loco The new footplate, added tiles to the front bogie, replaced the green 1x6 plate with a black one, and the improved cylinder innards. New dome with S Brick underneath. Slightly raised cab. Tender The tender was a complete rebuild, but used basically the same chassis. It was however, a little lazy, and relied heavily on what I happened to already have. New Tender Completed Engine. I intend to replace it with an actually good loco one day, but until inspiration and funds allow, this is a vast improvement.
  11. In the 42083 Bugatti hipe here is my throw at a fake W16 engine. I wanted it to be small and easy to install. I spent some time on it over the weekend and after some trial and error I got it working. It has more friction than a mini-V8, but I'm afraid that is inevitable. It all comes very precise. For the fake crankshaft I had to use mirrored cam-pairs, otherwise the sharp side of a cam piece would hit the piston under too much angle, which sometimes caused hick-ups. To make it run smoothly the pistons need a space of exactly the height of a flat plate, no more, no less. Also the end-stops of the 3L piston-axles are essential and the round sides of the bushes attached to the pistons need to face down. If it wasn't because of the mirrored cam-pairs, a half-cylinder offset in the piston-rows would have been possible . LXF-file here. EDIT: I reworked the mini engine into a 1:8 scale version. Slightly different configuration. If you build this: Be sure to level the bottom-ends of the 3L piston-axles with the bottom-ends of the bushes by pressing them against the flat side of a beam. Sink the piston-axle-end-stops all the way into the 12t gears. Make sure the round side of the bushes face down. Instructions can be found on Rebrickable.
  12. Hello Train peoples :) Here to you I present a Tank Engine I built some time ago. It is probably obvious enough what it's based upon :P It may not be much, but it was the first thing I built after my dark ages. Now, with no further ado, here are the pictures! Please excuse my poor camera quality :( The rods on the wheels are actually single track pieces. This side view shows how big the cab is, i'm not sure if the proportions look proper or not.. The Unexciting back view! The inside of the cabin is a simple firebox and 4x1 tile with controls on it. Another angle of it... And finally, here is a front view of the engine. I think it looks better with two headlamps, but that's just my preference. I think I prefer working in 8 stud wide engines more than the usual 6, which is what I used to do when I was younger. The main reason I put these pictures up is because i'm probably going to dismantle it in a few days to use the blue parts for some other creations. Please let me know what you think of it, or if you have any suggestions that could make this or any future engines I might build any better? There was a great steam engine that used to run through my back garden in the 1850's to the 1950's, recently a book was published on it, i'm considering recreating it in Lego form.. Axle
  13. Hello, I’m Kevin, 32 years old from Willebroek, Belgium. I’m now building a Castle themed setting which is nearly finished. My latest MOC is this Custom truck, I finished this in late November 2017. The car is based on a 1930 Ford Model AA truck with custom chassis, RWD drivetrain, suspension and several other details. I tried to incorporate as many technical details as I could. Since it’s brick built, those technical details don’t work, they are esthetical except for steering.. More on Flickr
  14. Bricksmith

    (MOC) - LNER Gresley P2

    Hi all, Embarked on this project after having a bunch of green wheels left over from giving my Flying Scotsman black ones instead. The P2's were built in the 1930's and designed by Sir Nigel Gresley. They went through many looks throughout their time, but the most unique and original was the one i've built below. All were scrapped, but two new ones are being built for mainline running! The first, No 2007 'Prince of Wales' is due to be finished in 2020, built by the same folks who built No 60163 'Tornado'. The build is 6-wide with Power Functions in the tender. I'm looking into ways of detailing it with stickers and prints in future! This started as a digital design, like many engines I build: A photo of the engine with my Scotsman and Mallard builds:
  15. This electric high speed passenger train was inspired by both 7745 (High-Speed City Express Passenger Train Set) from 1985 and 60051 (High-Speed Passenger train) from 2014. The train features two locomotives (with no motors in either), one club car and four coaches. The roof of each car comes off to get at the inside, and all but the locomotives have interior details such as tables and chairs. (The cab cars are supposed to have generators and mechanical details, but I couldn't make it look good so they were removed.) The cabs on the two locomotives have computer screens for the drivers, but the rest of the open space is empty. You can add in PF / or 9v motors to either (or both!) of the locos, but I did not due to my personal preference of hand pushing things around. This car is one of four identical ones that all have removable roof sections. The club car's top roof section is removable to get at the upper floor, but the lower section is not accessible at all. (I did try unsuccessfully to make it work. The LDD file for this model is at brick safe. Please note, the red of the train can be completely replaced by blue, if you wanted to give it some variety. Comments, questions and suggestions are always welcome!
  16. Please NOTE: There never was a Ohio Pacific railroad in the real world, but in my fictional universe, it never made it to the California coast, just to Denver, Colorado at it's western-most terminal with New York City being it's eastern-most point. As such, this locomotive is entirely fictional, with the paint scheme for the coaches inspired the real-world Missouri Pacific. This model was inspired by user @brickblues and his 4-6-2 Mallard-styled steam locomotive. My version of the engine is a 4-8-2, which means it has four leading, eight driving, and two trailing wheels, making it a Mountain type locomotive. The engine is streamlined with a blue shell around the boiler with tan and white stripes in places. The tender is supposed to say "Ohio Pacific" in printed 1 x 1 tiles, while the cab is supposed to say 6093 (also in printed tiles). The cab of the loco should features this print for the firebox door that is lacking in the LDD file. The baggage car features opening double doors for the baggage end and single doors for the passenger end. The three coach cars are identical with two opening doors at either end. The observation car features a open-air rear platform for looking at the passing scenery. This train is on the to-build list (which is getting longer all the time!) in real bricks. As usual, comments, questions, complaints, and suggestions are always welcome!
  17. I don't see many 4-4-2 Atlantic types steam locos around in LEGO, and even less orange-colored trains besides the TGV-like Horizon Express and SP Daylight 4449. This should fix both problems at the same time, and yes, it's build-able in this color in real life. The Atlantic type 4-4-2 (4 leading, 4 driving, 2 trailing) was the top-of-the-line express train hauler in the middle 1890's to early 1910's. Some continued right up until the end of steam in the Fifties, with the Hiawatha's of the Milwaukee Road hitting 100 MPH speeds daily with this wheel arrangement. The engine should have "3110" printed on it's cab and "GREAT WEST" on it's tender in 1 x 1 tiles. The cab of the loco with four printed gauges and the firebox door. Four identical passenger cars in matching orange paint-scheme are pulled by the Atlantic-type steam locomotive. The words GREAT and WEST are supposed to be printed on the 2 x 4 tiles on either side of the cars. Here you can see the whole train at once. I'm not sure when or if this loco and it's consist will be built, but if it is I will update this post here with better, real-world photos. LDD file available at this link here. As usual, Comments, Suggestions, Questions, & Complaints are always welcome!
  18. Hello Guys, Do anyone of you made some frame which can "replace" this part? Technic, Pin Connector Block 1 x 5 x 3 To be honest, I am just tired of trying to make it right. I have two of that parts in 42069, but I don't want to disassemble that model. I was trying to find something on google and youtube, but I didn't. Thank you in advance for help!
  19. I am relatively new here so I shall start by showing off my latest model that's actually finished. I really like this car so I had to make it and I posted it on LEGO IDEAS so if you like the model please support it Original colors and removable stiff roof can be replaced by imitation of folded convertible roof I photoshopped it here by changing the colour to preferable medium azure. engine and it can be easily removed trunk with a suitcase with clothes and a spare tire and everything opened
  20. Dear fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am in dire need of some help from you folks who are definitely more knowledgeable than I. In this case, I am needing help with the replication of the RMS Titanic's Reciprocating Engines and Turbine. I am in the midst at the moment of working on the project below, though I have not updated it in a great while due to university work. See this link here for the project thread. But this is a minifig scale project, with every door, every window accounted for. This means that in regards to the engines, I am also seeking to make them at least somewhat true to scale and able to work as intended. Obviously this is a big job of some top notch Edwardian-era engineering, but I am hoping that there might be some out there not as technically-challenged (pun totally intended) as I am, willing to help me get this part of the project off the ground. Some of the features I I am looking for include a fully air-powered system, where the air supply would come from tanks hidden in the mock-boilers, that are then funneled at somewhat high pressure to the Triple Recip. Engines, which means that the pressure would go down as it goes through each cylinder (HP, IP, then two LPs). The leftover air at a much lower pressure then goes to a junction that can either go to the Parson's Turbine at what was historically 4 psi, or can go directly to the condensers. With the latter I intend just to make the outside of it and hide inside some custom compressors like this. That would then return to the original air supply. With this I am hoping that I will have a self-supplying system with ideally no more than 5% leakage, or enough compressors that leaks are compensated for. WIth the Parson's Turbine, that can be an accurate shell with whatever is needed inside to include a working turbine, and probably with an gearbox and ascending set of gear ratios to give it the necessary torque. These engines and turbine are meant to actually turn the propellers, perhaps even in water! Some other features would include a replica of the Brown-type reversing engine on the side of each of the Recip engines, making it so that the Stevenson-type eccentrics can change the direction of rotation. Considering the scale, the reversing engine doesn't technically have to be much more than a slightly-hidden piston that does the required job, but any more realism doesn't hurt. If something like this is possible, please let me know. I am really wanting to continue with this project, and this is a central part of it. But without the pieces in front of me instead of on a computer screen, what little I know of engineering definitely doesn't help without that tactile interaction. Thanks for your time, and I look forward to your replies! If it is possible, then I can follow up with the intended dimensions. Here are some references for any that wants some: View of turbine and condensers through wall from main engines rotor shaft model of port-side recip. engine overall basic view path of the steam of original, pressurized air for mine
  21. Hi all, I recently went on a bit of a designing spree during my holidays and thought I'd share the results. I've been developing these models at a slightly smaller scale than usual (Hence 6-wide), but it's been a fun challenge and one I would like to develop into more actual models if I have the time. I thought i'd share them all at once as I didn't want to clog the forum xD MALLARD (LNER A4 Class) The first design I did of this scale and the only model I have physically made. You'll notice that the boiler is different from the render as those arch blue pieces are horrendously expensive. If you are interested I go into more detail about it in this MOC video on my Youtube channel. FLYING SCOTSMAN (LNER A3 Class) Classic design to follow on from. The wheelbase is copied from my Mallard build, which forms the base for all my pacific class designs. TORNADO (BR Peppercorn A1 Class) Developed this by tweaking the Flying Scotsman build. I know of better ways to do the smoke deflectors, but unfortunately the parts weren't available on LDraw. GWR HALL CLASS I developed this for a friend's Hogwarts Express build, but also as a bit of fun. With a couple of tweaks this could always pass for a King or a Castle. LMS ROYAL SCOT CLASS I think the front of this engine could be different if the parts were available, and I wasn't able to do the wheel arches, but I'm happy with the tender and the shaping of the cab. SR KING ARTHUR CLASS I thought i'd try and to an engine from each of the major British steam companies. The obvious one for Southern was a Merchant Navy or West Country, but I've already done a lot of Pacific engines. BR STANDARD 4MT TANK The one major drawback is that it isn't motorised. I've been considering making a motorised carriage that would not only move un-motorised engines, but help the bigger motorised ones around the corners better. That, of course, comes with its own set of drawbacks. THE FLYING SAUSAGE (LNER 10000 - 'HUSH HUSH') I wasn't lying in the title, this is such a wonderfully absurd engine that I had to try it. my only major niggle is the colour scheme, but I suppose experimental engines are hardly worth sprucing up. I hope you've found these MOCs interesting, I'd love to hear any tips, comments or suggestions for future builds! I'm planning on building the Flying Scotsman before long, then maybe a set of coaches. -Isaac
  22. Alexslegorailroad

    GWR 14XX moc

    Hello eurobricks train tech!! I bring you today my first lego train moc. I am new to eurobricks so please point out any mistakes I may have made. I was inspired by scotnick's 14xx and decided to have a go at it. The construction of the model went very smoothly and I had originally used the 2x4 turntable for the trailing wheel. When I tested it, it wouldn't function properly and I had to replace it. So for two hours, I experimented with many different designs until I came up with one utilizing the ring plate and that err...longish blueish pin thingy! But it fit the bill and I'm happy! It is powered by the lego train motor with lights for the Lantern and the receiver in the cab. I do plan to build a autocoach to go with it which will house the battery box. Another problem I encountered was I had none of the I think 4x4 round bricks with holes in dark green, and since I don't buy any parts, I just used the 4x6 long half circle brick (I'm not that great with piece names!) And used some double sided tape to stick on the domes and an ausini clone brand chain for the chain on the front (I'm unarmed don't shoot! ) So stay posted guys, and look out for more projects coming soon! Comments and tips are very much welcome.
  23. Hello, my friends! Today, I show my MOC model: a car Twins-charge fuel Stratified Injection Internal Combustion Engine whose abbreviation is TSI Engine. Please give me your precious ideas and comments. 1. This MOC model almost includes every component of a real car engine: Cylinder Crankshaft Camshaft Timing belt Twinscharge fuel Stratified Injection Distributor fuel Injection System Distributor Spark Plugs System HALL circuit Lubrication Cooling Generator 2. Besides using LEGO bricks and parts, I add a special electronic component. It is HALL circuit. It uses a HALL chip to simulate Distributor Spark Plugs System. 3. Just as the principle of a generator and the principle of a motor are reverse, I use a motor to drive this engine to simulate the process of a running engine. And each component is running as a real-time sequence. When running, it looks like a real engine more. 4. I hope when you touch this model, you will get more learning of a car engine. I also post a video of learning car engine in Youtube and my website. Now let us view this product. Just enjoy it. Fig. 1 This engine has 4 Vertical Cylinders. Fig. 2 Crankshaft with 4 Pistons, each delays 90 or 180 degrees. Fig. 3 Suction and Exhaust Camshafts with Oblong Lobes to lift Poppet Valves. Fig. 4 Timing Belt. The Medium Blue one is Cooling Water Pump which is driven by Timing Belt. The bottom gear is driven by the crankshaft. The top right gear drives the Suction Camshaft while the top left gear drives the Exhaust Camshaft. The middle left gear is used to adjust the tension of the Timing Belt. Fig. 5 Light blue pipes are Fresh Air Suction: the bottom is Mechanic Charger and the top is Turbine Charger. Fig. 6 Gray pipes are Exhaust pipes: the Exhaust Gas drives the Turbine. Fig. 7 Turbine Fig. 8 Distributor Fuel Injection System Fig. 9 Distributor Spark Plugs System: 4 diode simulate Spark Plugs. Fig. 10 HALL chip Fig. 11 A Magnet is mounted on the Flywheel to active HALL Effect Sensor to detect the position of each piston. Fig. 12 The principle of HALL Effect Sensor. Fig. 13 Lubricate Oil Pump is driven by Crankshaft with Gears. Fig. 14 Perspective View Fig. 15 HALL Effect Sensor (DIY) which is mounted at the end of the Crankshaft to detect the position of each Piston. Fig. 16 Assembled Model Connecting to batteries, this Engine model can operate, just watch the video in I also make a learning video to talk about car engine. I hope my work will bring happiness and learning to you. Please kindly visit http://www.camellia.xin
  24. I am a fairly new member to the Lego community but have immediately been interested in LPEs. Here is my idea: Has anybody ever built or thought about powering a compressor with the engine itself. So instead of having a compressor powered by a PF motor, connect the crankshaft of the engine to it. This removes the need for the motor entirely. You will obviously need some sort of external pump to get the engine turning over as a start, similar to a starter motor. The other problem I have thought of is that it will create a never ending cycle of the engine going faster and faster and faster, assuming that the compressor can produce more air than the engine needs and vice versa. I currently do not have the resources to test this myself so any feedback would be amazing! Is this a stupid idea? Are there other things I haven't thought of? What are your thoughts on this project? Thanks!
  25. This engine is modeled after the GE 44 ton switcher locomotive. Why 44 tons, you may ask? I give you the answer from the Wikipedia article on this loco type: This locomotive's specific 44-short ton weight was directly related to one of the efficiencies the new diesel locomotives offered compared to their steam counterparts: reduced labor intensity. In the 1940s, the steam to diesel transition was in its infancy in North America, and railroad unions were trying to protect the locomotive fireman jobs that were redundant with diesel units. One measure taken to this end was the 1937 so-called "90,000 Pound Rule" :[citation needed] a stipulation that locomotives weighing 90,000 pounds (41,000 kg) – 45 short tons – or more required a fireman in addition to an engineer on common carrier railroads. Industrial and military railroads had no such stipulation. The 44-ton locomotive was born to skirt this requirement. The loco is bi-directional, and doesn't have much to differentiate between the "front" or "rear" expect for the air horn and exhaust stack on one end in real life. My LEGO model lacks these, so it's only way to tell which is front is by the headlights: clear for front, red for rear. I am going to name this loco WFP number 7007. (WFP stands for Wabash Frisco & Pacific, which is the name of a 12 inch gauge ride-on railway in St. Louis, MO.) They don't have a real 44 toner there, but do have a Fairbanks Morse H10-44 (number 704) in the same color scheme, so I made this engine as a companion to the H10-44. In the spoiler tag below, you will find a real life picture of a 44-toner loco. (I got the picture from railpictures.net, It is NOT mine!) Just for comparison purposes, here is the H10-44 I was talking about. NOTE: The H10-44 is NOT included in the GE 44-ton's LDD file! The (updated) LDD file for the GE loco is available here. Build updated 3-14-17 with a better 44 ton GE unit, courtesy of Henry Durand over on Facebook's LEGO Train Fan Club. Thanks Henry! Comments, Questions, suggestions and complaints are always welcome!