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Terra Station Z is a space station which be used for researching ores. Inside the Ore Research Centre, there are several research devices and robotic devices for splitting ores. Theres also an motorized conveyor belt for transporting the ores inside the station. Theres also a communication centre, for communication with spaceships and controlling/monitoring drones. This was a part of our Lowlug community Neo Classic Space layout. 01_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 02_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 08_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 11_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 13_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 14_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr Pictures also on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mathijslegofan/albums/72177720311251724/with/53191969795/
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The Frisco 1522 loco is a 1926 oil burning 4-8-2 "Mountain" type, (4 leading, 8 drivers, 2 trailing) that was made surplus in 1951, donated to the Museum of Transportation (in St. Louis, Missouri) in 1959, and restored to working order in 1988 by the St. Louis Steam Train Association (SLSTA) for it's excursion career. It's new lease on life lasted until 2002 when rising insurance costs made the engine enter it's second retirement, which will be probably be forever. When the engine was running in it's second career, the SLSTA had four train cars in it's excursion support role. They carried parts, tools, merchandise to sell, and crew members not on duty. After re-retirement of the 1522, most of the cars were eventually sold to Milwaukee Road 261 organization and were renamed and repainted into a different paint scheme more suited to that group. This may not be the best interpretation of the Frisco 1522, but it seems to be the one of the few I've seen built out of Lego. The model you see here has been my dream ever since I was 5 or six years old and rode behind the steamer on one of it's last public trips. (I don't remember much of the trip, but I do remember the sense of awe and respect for the power of steam after seeing the loco pull past us on it's journey back to the museum and into what looks to be permanent retirement.) The cab walls on both model and real engine have the name of the railroad (Frisco) on it's side, while the number of the loco (1522) is on the tender sides. One half of this baggage car (named 'Black Gold' after a train the 1522 used to pull) housed tools, spare parts, lubricants and a fire hose or getting water for the loco, among many other things. The other half (usually closest to the engine) had the souvenir shop with shelves and tables for fundraising merchandise selling. The car is now repainted and named 'Golden Valley'. It has been used with Milwaukee Road 261. The 'Firefly' was the crew car. It was also named after a train the 1522 used to pull. The car has been sold to be used with Milwaukee Road 261. It sits in storage currently. The diner-lounge 'Chouteau Club' wasn't owned by the St. Louis Steam Train Association (SLSTA), but by a private individual who was a member of the club. It now is stored / owned by Illinois Transit Assembly in Madison, Illinois, sidelined by side sill rust. The 'Bluebonnet' was a business car and brought up the rear of the train. It was also named after a train the 1522 used to pull. The car has been sold to be used with Milwaukee Road 261. It has been renamed back to it's first name of 'Milwaukee' and repainted into the proper colors for that railroad. The real engine is publicly displayed at the Museum of Transportation in St. Louis, Missouri. The Lego model of the loco is sitting on the front of the loco, just above the cowcatcher. This official Frisco 1522 website gave me invaluable info and pictures of the excursion cars and the loco itself. This page in particular was very helpful in getting the window amount / spacing / 'look' of the excursion cars right. NOTE: Yes, I had a thread made in 2016 for the loco only. That thread was last updated in 2017, and I didn't want to mess with the moderators by bumping it. Thus, this new thread was created. I hope that was ok! EDIT: 9/23/23: Real world photos added! -
This is my contribution to Lego Ideas, if you like it you can vote for it in the link below. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/fe056819-d65a-4e83-b75c-38398be6ac67
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Hi everyone! After a brief 'dark age' spanning a few years, I've now designed and built a new cargo train locomotive. I wanted something that exudes a sense of 'heavy industry' and initially created a prototype that didn't quite meet my expectations (see image bellow). This model takes inspiration from both the Lego Creator Maersk train, incorporating most of its general structure, and the Polish SM31 shunter locomotives. The locomotive showcases a sleek, black exterior accented with yellow and white details. Because of the primary color, I affectionately named it the "Coffin" locomotive, akin to the real-life SM31's nickname (Trumna). The locomotive closely resembles parts of the the distinctive SM31 train, and the cabin is designed for a minifigure operator, complete with a control panel. Additionally, it's equipped with Power Functions, including a battery box, a train motor, and an IR receiver. Before settling on the black color scheme, I explored various digital iterations, considering options like yellow, red, blue, and green. Ultimately, I chose black for its cost-effectiveness, leveraging parts I already owned.However, it did result in the photos having slightly lower quality due to the darkness of black. The digital model is readily available for download using Lego Studio: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-158217/Brickviller/coffin-heavy-shunter-locomotive/#details The prototype version, mostly based on an elongated version of the red cargo train 3677. Please take note: Although the digital model featured a light bluish-grey windscreen piece, I discovered that no such part exists in that color when I started building it. I sourced the piece from a custom vendor, and it's not an official Lego component. In the future, I plan to replace it with an original Lego piece in white, which is readily available.
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Decided to take inspiration from fellow builders and put all my past & future builds into one thread, so I wouldn't feel bad about having to create new threads everytime I had something new to upload. The first pictures are the builds that got me started back in 2017, and ones at the bottom are the more recent mocs that I've made. Jaguar XJR-12 Completed in January 2021 McLaren Senna Completed in January 2021 Lexus LFA Modification of an earlier version that I built back in 2019 Bentley Mulliner Bacalar Completed in February 2021 Koenigsegg Jesko Absolut Completed in February 2021
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[WIP] [MOC] Winter in the Raven's Wharf - Medieval City
Kozikyo86 posted a topic in LEGO Historic Themes
Hi! Today I start my new project: Winter in the Raven's Wharf This will be my biggest MOC to date and there are quite a few topics to cover I plan to build a medieval port somewhere in the far north. I did surveys on YouTube and Instagram, I asked what season to choose... ...Winter won! The project will consist of several parts, the whole thing will be divided into several baseplates. The size of 60x150 studs is planned. On the waterfront, I will want to build a lot of buildings for residents, but also military ones. The main attraction, however, will be the large ship I'm already building There are several inspirations, I will definitely turn on the Witcher 3 game more than once to explore Novigrad and look for interesting ideas. The main ship will have about 1500 parts and I will definitely make a PDF instructions for it. I've already built a small boat for a fisherman, I'll probably build more of these. I'm going to need a lot of parts, especially for building water. Since I'm building winter, I'll want to use the new animals from the City Arctic series - I'll add some seals, but I'm tempted to add a killer whale as well. You can learn more about this project from my video, link below. I will be glad if you write what you think about this project, but also write your ideas what I can build here :) In the next episode I will definitely want to show the finished ship, I will have to make sails and instructions. -
Welcome to the Olympic Gardens! I'm by no means an engineer, but I started out wanting to create a beautiful domed European-style modular. There was going to be a tower, and a balcony, and an arcade along the front, to enhance my city layout. I got to the bottom of the dome and it did NOT translate well to the tower portion. The angles were terrible! So instead, I pivoted and turned it into a garden pavilion. And I like the result so much better! Some of my favorite parts are the planters holding the cypress trees. The main portion is a technic piece that makes a really cool textured planter. I'm a big fan of gardens and fountains, so there's tons of flowers and greenery in the finished build, and a main fountain up on the level with the pavilion. The cow horns near the bottom of the model (under the arches) were originally supposed to be teacups, but I didn't realize until too late that the pieces were too big for the gaps until later. So it's just a cool bit of statuary now. I plan to try and recreate this MOC in real bricks soon, as soon as I can order new bricks. It has more of a diorama style footprint than I normally do in my MOCs, so I can display the finished model on my shelf. There's tons of little details hidden in the scene as well, such as animals and lost coins, and bees everywhere. The flower bushes in the planters at the top of the stairs utilize a cool little piece with three studs, where I inserted the vines and green wolverine claws. The koi tiles are my absolute favorite, so I knew I had to include some in the build. I also like to make up primary stories to go with the MOCs I build, and for this one, the lady gets a text to meet her friend the artist at the park for a portrait painting. I also like the little grapes in the garden pavilion, they give it more of a pastoral atmosphere that I like to see in real-life gardens. The only thing that's really silly is that the balustrade on the side is a bit off center compared to the main balustrades, but that's something I can tinker with more when I build it in real bricks. Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any comments! :) Edit: I've created a time-lapse of the digital build, you can see it below: It took a lot longer to edit than to take all the photos, video software likes to keep crashing when you add 2,766 photos to it and try to shorten the frame length all at once!
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[MOC] EAGLE an RC Trophy Truck
Daniel-99 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hey, guys! After a 3-month brake from Lego, I am glad to show you my new RC trophy truck, called Eagle. I apologise for the quality of photos and I will try to improve them later after I will get myself a studio light. I will also make a proper introductory video when I will get enough outdoor footage. Features Responsive long-travel suspension with 4-link live-axle at the rear and double wishbone at the front Brushless motor A2212 1200 kv for propulsion, Geek Servo for steering, 1500 mAh 3S Li-Po for power Strong and efficient transmission with metal U-joints and metal bearings. Great ground clearance for outdoor use, 95 mm RC wheels Light-weight bodywork Experience and Inspiration I guess that nobody will be surprised If I would make a confession that I have a deep passion for Trophy trucks. This type of vehicle suits the best for the role of a fast RC Lego cars which are build for outdoors. Indeed, outdoor environment is always rough and "bumpy" for Lego cars. I took my inspiration and first experience form several well-known Lego builders, such as: Sariel RM8 ZeroBricks GooberReboot Through the last 3 years of intensive engineering I made a few attempts in building myself a "proper" trophy truck. Each of them had it`s own features and technical problems: Heavy-duty Trophy Truck: RWD, 2x BM, 2x Buwizz 3.0 units, 95mm wheels. Problems: "big scale" which caused a serious load for motors, over-tilted front caster. Phantom: RWD, 2x BM, Leshy control unit, 85mm wheels, mid scale. Problems: lack of power from Leshy unit, lack of articulation at the rear, plastic wearing in the wheel hubs. Wilde Beast: 4WD, 4x BM, Wixy RC control + 3S Lipo, 95mm wheels. Problems: "big scale" which caused a serious load for motors, indep. susp. with a questionable geometry. Falcon: 4WD, 4x BM, Wixy RC control + 3S Lipo, 75mm wheels. Problems: indep. susp. with a questionable geometry, overheating of motors at the maximal RPM. About a year ago I switched from Lego Buggy motors to a Brushless motor (for the reasons which will be covered later). This was not an easy switch for me and I had to learn some RC electronics theory and find the proper ways of using brushless motors with Lego. My latest RC cars with Brushless motors was: Unimog trial truck Pathfinder SUV Hornet 4x4 buggy With pathfinder and Unimog projects I studied the 4-link live-axle suspension geometry, while with Hornet project I found the way to achieve a proper suspension and steering geometry with my custom wheel hubs. With this projects completed I get myself all cars I need. - What should I build next? With such question in mind, I faced a deep burnout from Lego, so I decided to take a summer brake. Hot summer days returned me my passion for Lego, and I had a plenty of time to plan a new project. I felt myself ready to make another attempt in building myself a "proper" trophy truck. That is how the story begins. Electronics With my latest truck Falcon I reached the limit of what Buwizz motors could handle. Some time ago there was a discussion about efficiency and power-to-weight ratio. I would not resist that with the growing number of motors and Buwizz units, one could get a better power-to-weight ratio, though such a way faces the problem of plastic-weariness quite soon. With the growth of the number of motors, also grows the size of the car and it`s total weight, which get distributed to the four Lego plastic wheel hubs! I faced the plastic-weariness problem of Lego hubs with my Phantom truck, and solved it by purchasing custom wheel hubs with metal bearings, which I were used in the Falcon truck. Moreover, there was no gearing in the transmission of the Falcon truck: each wheel was connected to it`s own motor via driveshaft with metal bearings. With 4x Buwizz motors on board, powered by strong 3S Li-Po battery, Falcon had a great power-to-weight ratio. Through multiple tests I found that It can not handle full throttle for more than 45 seconds due to the rear motor overheating. It was pretty clear to me that RC Li-Po could easily overfeed 8 or even 12 motors with power, so there was no sense in adding more BM motors. Likely to me, one Russian AFOL developed a 3D-printed housing for Brushless A2212 motor which allowed to use it with Lego. I purchased two sets from him, and mot I have 100% RC setup. There was no problem with the lack of power or motor overheating anymore, but it was a real challenge for me to overcome this energy! Transmission With BM motors it is very natural to distribute the torque among axles \ wheels, by having separate transmissions to each axle \ wheel. But with Brushless motor I had to use "realistic" transmission, since there is only one output with a plenty of speed and torque. Despite the fact this motor is a baby-motor in the world of RC cars, It has enough power to twist Lego axles with instant reaction to the throttle. Custom 3D-printed housing has a 4:1 planetary reduction, but the speed of the output is enough to cause gear-melting. That is why the following decisions were made: use metal U-joints all around, most of them have a 3L lego axle glued from one side to prevent them from falling off. use silicone grease to lubricate the planetary gear in the motor housing and some external gearings. use custom parts with metal bearings to separate the transmission from the car frame. use carbon-fiber axles in the central driveshafts. The new Eagle truck has a very simple RWD transmission with a single "external" 14:23 gearing in the differential. Recall, that the 3D-printed motor housing has a 4:1 gear reduction. So the motor is connected to the differential via carbon-fiber driveshaft. From the differential power translates to the 95 mm RC wheels via half-axles with metal U-joints. The whole transmission sit on the metal bearings (custom wheel hubs with metal bearings, custom 5x7 frame with metal bearings for differential housing, motor output passes through the connector with the metal bearing). Surely you have noticed that I lifted the central differential by one stud over the wheel axle in order to achieve a higher ground clearance! Which differential to use RED or YELLOW? RED differential has a 28:12 reduction which reduces the load from the driveshaft and the motor. Moreover, such gear ratio is more realistic. On the other hand, YELLOW differential has bigger teeth so it is stronger. But more importantly, is that YELLOW differential is 125% more efficient than the RED one, since it has bigger gears and does not scratch the 5x7 frame under the load. In fact, I am using a custom torsen differential with 23-tooth gear. It also does not scratch the 5x7 frame and hold half-axles much stronger than the original YELLOW diff. Suspension Trophy truck is all about suspension, and it was the most challenging part for me! Non of my previous trophy trucks has a proper suspension: it was either rear live-axle without articulation (Phantom, heavy-duty trophy truck) or independed rear suspension (Wilde Beast, Falcon). As I found from multiple driving tests of Phantom, rear axle need an articulation, cause otherwise RWD car loose the speed on bumps. IRS give the desired articulation and stability, moreover it is very simple to build and it has a low unsprung mass. Despite that IRS has a limited articulation and it is not presented in real Trophy Trucks either! Lego engineers designed a ball-joint connection, which is used in many Trophy trucks. It gives a single-lever suspension (with it`s simplicity and stiffness) and desirable articulation. Well, I did not use it, since it has no metal bearings for the U-joint inside the ball. So I had to replicate the 4-link live axle. 12-long reinforced suspension arms, invested upper triangle, 9.5 L springs, attached to the mid of lower suspension arms, Anti row-bar with a carbon-fiber axle, Now let`s move the the front suspension. Surely, real Trophy Truck has a complex front suspension, which is impossible to replicate with lego bricks. Though lego-ish version share important principles with real prototypes: double wishbone with 8L suspension arms (9L was too wide here) Positive caster angle Reinforced lower arms Shock is attached to the lower arm closer to the center of the car Steering rack is located in the front of the car Again I use custom wheel hubs with metal bearings. They have an inverted lower arm mounting point, though it is possible to use Lego hubs instead. With hart 9.5 L springs the front suspension has a long travel, moreover it has a great balance btw softness and responsiveness + side-way support. Bodywork & Frame In order to achieve a positive caster angle I tilted the lower part of the frame. At the same time, the upper part of the frame. At the very front of the car upper and lower parts of the frame meets together which form the "almost right-angle" triangle with lengths: 13+1, 14+1 and 5+1. (right-angle triangle has the following lengths: 12+1, 13+1 and 5+1). Second time I use the Pythagoras theorem to make a force triangle for the rear springs attachment points. I tried to keep the frame of the truck in 13-15 studs wide, to use 15L liftarms for cross braces. I was Luckily to me I was able to squeeze all electronics into cockpit. This give the model 50:50 weight distribution and a "low" (for such high car) gravity center. Well, one would prefer to obtain 35:65 weight distribution for the RWD truck, but It would raise the gravity center and would require extra structure over the rear axle. The whole bodywork consist of 24 panels and a few bricks, so it does not cause much weight to the truck. -
So I’ve always flip-flopped between sci-fi and fantasy themes. After spending several years firmly building spaceships I’ve decided to give a castle and medieval village build a go. My style is always with play in mind and some leeway towards historical accuracy. This is very much a work in progress. My aim is to make something sort of modular, not just to rearrange but to make it easier to move to allow my kids to play with it. I have another experimental build I tried, a half timbered house in the black and white style that I want to try and incorporate. Thoughts and comments very welcome! So you can see the overall plan, a quadrangular castle with a central keep, able to be closed up and opened. All off the corner towers and wall sections are connected with pins. Gate section. I intend to add a drawbridge style gate to the front. With chains if possible. Apart from some small variations in the colours, all four corners are the same. The two side walls again are quite similar. The SNOT bricks I plan to use for some kind of climbing foliage. I also plan on making small sub builds to connect to the inside of the walls; a forge and smithy, a pig pen, a small half timbered lodge, a storage pile etc. Something to give it some life. The longer of the two rear wall halves has the bridge to the keep. And the keep itself. I plan on another floor, which may have some half timbered extensions, and a roof top access. Interior-wise, the bottom floor has the dungeon and cellar. The middle will have a small hall and for the top I think a bed chamber makes sense. I want to add details to this section like torches on the walls, trophies, other decorations. I’ll add more pictures of the half timbered house I’ve started, as well as other sun builds and progress pictures as I go, as well as the figs I think will inhabit here. I welcome feedback and suggestions for other details and sub builds. Thank you for taking the time to go through this.
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On the desert outskirts of the city where Johnny Thunder lives, there is an old airstrip where Johnny's old friend Harry Cane lives. In his little rundown hangar, the ace pilot maintains his biplane and prepares for the gang's next adventure. The old tin roof has patches of rust on it. The doors can be opened and closed as seen in this animation. On one side of the hangar there is a pile of crates, Harry's motorcycle, and a palm tree. On the other side of the hangar there is an old power generator. The steam powered generator chugs along, providing electricity to the building. Let's take a closer look inside the hangar. The roof can easily be removed to access the interior. This is where Harry's office desk is located. It is cluttered with a radio, maps, bills, booze, and navigation equipment. Next to it is a filing cabinet with a fan and a little easter egg. There's also a pile of cargo crates with adventuring gear, a brass fire extinguisher (the old kind which has a little rubber hose dangling from the top and which you simply tilt upside down to use), and a wall telephone. On this side there is a pinboard with a picture of Harry's friends Johnny Thunder and Dr. Kilroy, and various maps, including ones from the 2 previous adventures that Harry accompanied Johnny on. There is also Harry's workbench and tanks of oil and gas. Here is a closer look at Harry's biplane which he used during the war. The rudder can be adjusted. A small car that Harry uses to get to and from the hangar. It is designed in the style of the little impulse sets and polybags that were common for the Adventurers theme. It has a small baggage area in the back and the classic license plate with his initials. I hope you like this entry. I will leave you with a photo of Harry in front of his plane. -
Hiya! Here is the final mech in this series. This time around, I started with the helmet and worked my way out. Part availability in Dark Brown definitely played a role in the direction that the model took. Hope you like it! "We're putting the band back together, we need you man!' by Greg Dalink, on Flickr Zuckuss Utility-Class Battle Mech by Greg Dalink, on Flickr Zuckuss Utility-Class Battle Mech by Greg Dalink, on Flickr
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Hello everyone and thank you for accepting me in the site! After being away from the hobby for nearly 20 years, as if by chance I ended up rekindling the flame for LEGO once again. Over the past year and a half I have been working from home and I have been looking for new way to entertain myself. Accidentally I saw that the Harry Potter line had been revived over the last couple of years, so I decided to collect it as I was a huge HP fan as a child and building stuff after work seemed like a good way to relax while listening to some jazz. One thing let to another and as of a month or so now I have been building a full Hogwarts Castle MOC in quite an ambitious scale too, as it turns out. Like I said, I have been away from the hobby for quite some time, but it is great to see that unlike the 90s, nowadays it is quite easy to share with people and find like-minded souls for any passion you might have. Being an AFOL now and easily being considered somewhat of a boomer (lol), being out there is somewhat new to me, but nevertheless to make this process easier, I have made a YouTube channel and an Instagram where I am documenting my progress and various difficulties I happen to encounter while building and designing. So for anyone who might be interested, any kind of opinions, comments and feedback are more than welcome! Looking forward to delving into the LEGO hobby once again and finding new friends within the community! Thank you _______________ Edit: Nov 2022 Hello all, wanted to share some nice pictures of the current state of the castle for those of you that don't follow me on Instagram. Really appreciate if you follow me on You Tube and Instagram. Really helps a lot. Thanks for all the feedback! https://www.youtube.com/@Uniqueorn https://www.instagram.com/uniqueorn_lego/
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[MOC] Star Splitter: Classic Space Combiner/Transformer Spaceship Mech
danth posted a topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
All, This is a redesign of an entry I made for the recent Classic Space Era Spaceship contest. My goal was to build a spaceship that split into two smaller spaceships, both of which transformed into mechs. I was able to do it but I really rushed it at the end to meet the deadline! I didn't really love how it turned out. So I spent a couple months tweaking it and think I have something much better now. Here it is: The Star Splitter. The prototype was called the Ursa Craft, which split into Ursa Major and Ursa Minor. Basically Mama Bear and Baby Bear. The redesign features a tighter integration of both units, a totally redesigned airframe and new wing cannons for the larger Bomber unit, and a complete reworking of the smaller Fighter unit. Here is the larger rear ship, the Bomber Unit, in space ship and gerwalk modes: Here it is in mech/robot mode: Here is the smaller front ship, the Fighter Unit, in both modes: I tried to make this thing rock solid. Both bots are sturdy and hold a pose easily, and in space ship mode things generally snap into place pretty well. There are a few fiddly bits at the edges but nothing structurally unsound. Anyway, thanks for looking! -
[MOC] - Lego Technic Cartoon Truck (Building Instructions)
makushima posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Lego Technic Cartoon Truck (Building Instructions) Building Instructions: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=max.technic.building.instructions Lego Technic Cartoon Truck - Color Version (Building Instructions) Lego Technic Cartoon Truck - Black and White Version (Building Instructions) -
Small Hummer - 42102 Mini CLAAS XERION Alternative Build (Building Instructions) Building Instructions: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=max.set42102.alternative.models Small Hummer - 42102 Mini CLAAS XERION Alternative Build (Building Instructions)
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Here’s a love letter to one of my favorite ships of the Age: the absolutely terrific Téméraire-class 3rd rates by Jacques Noël-Sané. Without doubt this is my main inspiration for L’Anubis - god of the Underworld. The main obstacle for building larger ships in theme-scale is obviously the age old question: to prefab hull or not? Building the lower hull to Fer Maiden that mates up w/ the prefabs taught me a few ways to do a brickbuilt hull that can at least live in the same universe as them. That gave me the confidence to try this. I then used Fer Maiden’s dimensions to get a theme-scale equation and have my 3rd rate at 70x18 studs along her gun deck. Total width at her waterline is slightly more due to the SNOT curved slopes. Anyway, enough of that - I know you want the goods. This is still very much a work in progress with some gaps and test techniques so bear with me! I feel like you guys enjoy seeing a bit more of the process. This project has been progressing super quickly thus far (surprisingly) but I will really need to build her in real life and the instructions are going to take a massive effort.
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Presenting another of my Danish State Railways’ (DSB) trains redesigned to 8-wide and digitally rendered (with a bonus livery)... DSB IC3 The Danish State Railways’ (DSB) highly successful and innovative InterCity 3 aka IC3 passenger train was co-developed by Siemens -Duewag in Germany and ABB Scandia in Denmark. The train is operated by DSB in Denmark and Sweden, by Renfe Operadora in Spain and by Israel Railways in Israel. Amtrak in the USA and Via Rail in Canada have tested the train in the past. A trainset consists of three units; two diesel motor units (Litra MFA and Litra MFB) and one intermediary unit (Litra FF). Up to five trainsets can be coupled together. 96 trainset were built for DSB from 1989 to 1991. All are still in service today. My model: Original white and red livery used from 1989 to 2002. Fictionally named “Jørgen Vig” with the crest of Billund added. Scale: 1:48 Length: 157 studs (MFA: 55 – FF: 47 – MFB 55) or approx. 122 cm Width: 8 studs Bricks: 2.948 (MFA: 1.040 – FF: 861 – MFB 1.047) Locomotion: 2 x 9v or 2 x PF/PUP train motors Power: 9v, 2 x LEGO AAA battery boxes or 2 x BuWizz battery boxes Control: 9v, PUP, SBrick, PFx Brick or BuWizz Designed: 2022 Building instructions: Knud Ahrnell Albrechtsen aka snakebyte.dk Conversion of my 7-wide model from 2017 to 8-wide with more accurate dimensions. Very high setting render from Stud.io with custom decals added in the PartDesigner tool. Its able to navigate R40 but looks rather silly doing so: Interior with seats for 83 minifigs: Decorative side design for the bogies - a combination of parts and the molded decorative side for train motors: The coupling part can be change to a Liftarm Thin 1x7 (BL#32065) when combining several trainsets. Technique used for the sliding doors: Removing the 1 x 4 Tile as shown enables the door to slide open as a play feature. The fixed outer doors are a necessary part of the construction otherwise the very long body breaks too easily due to the roof being removable. However, they are designed to be rebuilt open when needed and the trainset stationary on display: The trainset is (fictionally) named Jørgen Vig with the crest of Billund added: Free building instructions: Option 1: https://open-l-gauge.eu/dsb-ic3/ Option 2: https://snakebyte.dk/lego/instructions/trains/diesel_engines/dsb_ic3_(8_wide)/index.php Bonus livery: Livery when Amtrak tested the IC3 Flexliner DMU (Diesel Multiple Unit ) in 1997:
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Hi all! I made this Galaxy Explorer Ground Base from the leftover parts in set 10497 after building the smallest One Man Space Ship alt build. This is the original: Here's mine: In addition to the command base & comm tower, there's a power station, small landing pad, some craters, a small speeder, and a rover. Command base: Comm tower: Power station: Landing pad and speeder: Rover (which I think is hilarious because the truck/storage bed is under the driver's seat): Anyway, I had a ton of fun building this. Thanks for looking!
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After some time in the making I can finally share a little something I’ve been working on. This right here is one of the engines built by the Société de Saint-Léonard, and employed by the SMMP (Sociedad Minera y Metalúrgica de Peñarroya) in the mining complex of Puertollano, Spain. It hauled coal and other goods between the different facilities until the mid-70s. By the time the mineshafts closed, they had no use for these engines and most of them were scrapped. Luckily a couple of them survived, one of them being this very same engine. Although officially named “Pozo Norte” after one of the main mineshafts in Puertollano, to this day everyone referres to her as “La Gorda” (The Fat One) no doubt in part because of her imposing girth. Nowadays you can find her sitting (in a rather disheveled state…) on a few meters of track in the gardens of the Mining Museum of the same town it used to work at. I’ve been to this museum many times, and seeing this locomotive was always the highlight of my visit. It was only a matter of time until I finally built it out of Lego. Building this engine was a refreshing change of pace from the high-speed modern trains I’m more used to. Trying to replicate as many shapes and details as possible was a fun challenge. Also, shoutout to @Redrado for suggesting the use of the 4625 hinge 1x4 tile to represent the riveting on the side of the water tanks, it looks great and the engine wouldn’t feel complete without it. The models for the wheels (ML), connecting rods and side rods are from Breckland Bricks. The model is designed to be motorized with a Powered Up L motor, the power is transmitted to the middle axel and through the connecting rods to the rest of the wheels. I’ve used this type of transmission before and I trust it will be strong and durable, however, I’m not so sure about the placement of the battery box, I’m concerned it’s hanging off too much and will cause balancing issues. Hopefully the weight at the front will shift the center of gravity forwards, but that’s something I won’t know for sure until I start messing with real bricks. Here’s a bonus picture of what these engines used to look like in their heyday.
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Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.
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Hey everyone! A month ago I showed you my Sächsische IV K. Now I want to show you its smaller predecessor, the Sächsische I K. This locomotive was used in the early days of the Saxon state railways, and were built between 1881 and 1892. They served on various narrow gauge railways up till the late 60s, when all of them were scrapped. In 2006 a plan was made to build a new I K, which was finished in 2009. Sadly in September of 2022 the locomotive was heavily damaged in a collision with a road vehicle. Reparations are still ongoing. To go with it I made a crude Ommr Flatbed railcar. Please tell me what you think! -GPM-
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Maelstrom spider boss (from LEGO Universe) - real world build of a digital Rebrickable MOC
Murdoch17 posted a topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Arachnophobes look away now, because the Maelstrom spider boss is BACK! As seen in the cinematic trailer (link to Youtube) for LEGO Universe, The Spider Boss was imagined by Baron Typhonus as a creature of pure chaos in the Mythran Temple and brought to life by the power of the Imagination Nexus. The Baron created the Spider Boss to demonstrate the possibilities of Imagination without rules. The Spider smashed a Robot Dog (that had just been created by Doctor Overbuild) and moved to attack Duke Exeter, Dr.Overbuild, and Hael Storm as Baron Typhonus laughed in triumph. However, creatures of chaos serve no master; the Spider turned on Typhonus and dragged him into the Imagination Nexus. This action corrupted the Nexus and mutated it into the Maelstrom. I recreated this MOC from instructions on Rebrickable by user Brigs, as seen here. I had to change some parts' colors around (as it wasn't buildable in original form without selling a kidney), and other parts were weakly attached. For example: Those two black wedge slopes on the rear of the body were originally purple, but couldn't be bought in quantity due to them being from one 2014 X-Men set. This made it impossible to get them at a reasonable price. That's all for now, thoughts and comments are always appreciated! -
Pippin is trying to explain that they're lost but Merry's not listening - he's just found a biscuit in his pocket! Just playing around with a few ideas ahead of a much bigger moc I'm planning. This is one is a test of a waterfall/stream technique I wanted to try. I got hold of about 30 this part and figured it might make a decent flowing water effect. But in the end it was a lot more difficult than I anticipated because there's not much back/forward rotation in the clips. I ended up with quite a few 'illegal' connections, although I think they could be designed out with a bit of planning. I quite like the end result - I think I got some of the flowing movement I was after, although I next time I'm going to try adding some tan/dark tan under the water pieces to simulate the stream bed. Hopefully it will help emphasise the effect more. Anyway, hope you enjoy the pics - comments/suggestions welcome!
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Arrival in the New World, Central America 1500s Exceptional water technique from Faebricks Arrival in the New World, Central America 1500s by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr Arrival in the New World, Central America 1500s by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr Arrival in the New World, Central America 1500s by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr Arrival in the New World, Central America 1500s by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr
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HMS Certitude A 26 gun 4th-rate ship of the line form around 1780 to 1840 which is loosely based on the Ardent-class ships and had the magnificent 10210 Imperial Flagship as its starting point. Regarding her size, of course, compromises had to be made - in terms of true-to-original scale or certain shipbuilding features. Nevertheless, I wanted to build her - especially for the sake of my children - suitable for minifigures. In this respect, I am always keen on finding the right mix of playability, a certain robustness and at the same time an appearance that is as realistic as possible. And I think overall it works quite well. Also, my parts selection is limited and I had to use what was there. So you could consider it as a compromise between the three poles of "appearance", "playability" and "available bricks“. Of course, one or the other situation could have been solved better with different, more special parts, but it is how it is now. The sails are made of polyester cloth, making them fairly durable (and easily washable). A friend of mine owns a laser cutter, which sealed the edges and eyelets perfectly. I’m dreaming of UV-printing those sails someday, but right now it’s not worth the cost. I omitted the mizzen staysails due to lack of space. Functions: All cannons are functional The lid to the captain's cabin can be removed The big grilles on the upper deck can be flipped open to get a view on the capstan The quarterdeck can be removed separately The forecastle can be removed separately The middle deck can be removed separately The capstan can be rotated and the anchor set or weighed All yards, gaff and main boom can be set relatively accurately A small list of sins I knowingly committed: I used bricks from many manufacturers as the bricks in my sorting boxes are completely mixed up. I cut/shortened some rigging-parts by one segment. I surely used countless illegal building techniques and put some stress on one or the other brick. I hope you enjoy this MOC and hopefully I can manage to release a few more in the future Link to Flickr Album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/198933564@N08/albums/72177720310198959
