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Found 36 results

  1. Hi There! 1:45 scale Lego model of the Portuguese Siemens Krauss Maffei Eurosprinter, CP5600 This model has around 2000 parts, custom lights, HA bricks MS wheels, Buwizz 2.0, and two Powerfunctions L motors. Also, I pay homage to the LLMTC guys by using an LLMTC printed brick on that boring huge grey wall. (they gave me these bricks after participating in one of their amazing events last year) This is the most ordinary locomotive in Portugal, currently used in all Intercity Trains (where there is electric wire).
  2. ER0L

    MOC: Canadair CL-215

    Hi all, this is a first aircraft, a Canadair CL-215 waterbomber in minifig scale (around 1:45). Its wingspan is 80 studs, the fuselage is 8 studs wide. The main points were getting the wings straight and getting a smooth fuselage, especially at the rear. Apart from that it was quite a fun build, although it took nearly two months. Being a complete newbie in building airplanes I was very glad to see that I had some predecessors. It helped me a lot to look at their versions of the Canadair. That's why there are quite a few credits: John Lamarck, Bombardier CL-415: measurements, proportions, wing profile vincez01, Canadair CL-215: fuselage, landing gear Zorko Huljic, Canadair CL-415: tail Last not least a big thank to my dear friend Steffen, a LEGO plane specialist, who gave me a lot of advice. Take a look at his fantastic aircraft: Some more pics: Side view: The plane fits two whole minifig pilots, as you can see here: Furthermore the aircraft has some functions: 2 engines (run by a PF M motor each) flaps (run by a PF M motor) movable rudder, coupled with the steerable nose wheel Video (sorry for the bad quality, it's just to get an impression): The plane was built to be moved by an LCS (see http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=91937). It was quite suspenseful to see if a plane with a weight of over 1 kilogramme could be pulled by it. In fact it's no problem, as you can see here: This is quite nice because like this an airport with taxiing planes is possible which widens the possibilities when planning a town layout. That's about it so far, some more pics on Flickr, if you're interested in this. C&C welcome as usual, thanks for looking.
  3. Hi mates! It has been some time, I only teased differend WIPs but never showed a finished one the last months... No honestly, I just had no time - but now it´s here: Davy Jones, do you fear the Black Pearl? The ship is fully motorized accompanying my "Rolling" Dutchman: Motorized Features: Rolling movement caused by waves (1. L-Motor) Motorized movement for- and backward (1. L-Motor, switched manually) Motorized steering with simoultaneously rotating ship´s wheel, rudder and steering mechanism (1.S-Motor) Motorized sail trim with turning capstan and changing sail position of all square sails (2.S-Motor) All features can be controlled by rc-control via 4 channels and two receivers The battery box can slide out easily to switch on/off and change batteries EXTRA: The lower cannons can fire a broadside automatically! General Features: Two decks with cannons (one side the lower deck is closed to store the motors) The two tripple-barreld chasers can manually slide backwards and then the gun ports can be closed Handmade sails or original Lego-Sails Two functional anchors Upper cabin minifigure size (illuminated by light-brick) The ropes between the masts can be removed easily to take them apart for transport Some videos in the flickr album, showing the different fuctions: Black-Pearl at Flickr Black-Pearl Full Broadside Firing 2 There is also a video on youtube showing the ship and its functions (german): The functions are shown at e.g. 04:55 and the shooting mechanism at 07:18. I have the ship with self-made sails fitting the style of my "Rolling" Dutchman as well: I hope you enjoy it! My dream is a video reassembling the popular footage in the maelstroom, I hope I can arrange something similar in the future... Yours, Captain Störtebricker
  4. Hello LEGO Trainenthousiasts, I've made a PowerFunctions-IRcontroller for 4 trains + lights + 3 railswitches with servo's based on an Arduino Uno R3 : https://forum.arduin...?topic=369292.0 One of demands was also using the older LEGO RC-trains. But on the internet no information was found. So with aid of a logicanalyzer I proudly presents the outcome of this investigation: An experiment to make this functional: http://forum.arduino...?topic=320405.0 LEGO RC TRAINS PROTOCOL note: mu s means micro seconds channel 4 means combichannel 1+2+3 This is not the LEGO PowerFunctions IR protocol version 1.20 as described at http://www.philohome...ons_RC_v120.pdf This protocol described below is the predecessor of LEGO PF. Start = Stop is bitstream 36kHz with 10 bits and pauze 1930 mu s Uno is bitstream 36kHz with 10 bits and pauze 280 mu s Zero is bitstream 36kHz with 10 bits and pauze 844 mu s 1 bit has a duty-cycle 16 mu s high and 11,5 mu s low pauze (common factor 18 ms, so factors for Channel actie bitstreams blok-pauze-blok-pauze-blok-pauze-blok) 1 up Start 1111 1111 1110 0001 Stop 3+2+2 = bitstream1 pauze = 3*18ms bitstream2 pauze = 2*18ms bitstream3 pauze = 3*18ms bitstream4 1000 0111 1111 1110 1001 1000 4+5+3 1 down Start 1111 1111 1101 0010 Stop 2+2+3 Start 0111 1111 1101 1010 Stop 3+2+3 1 stop Start 0111 1111 1111 1000 Stop 3+2+2 Start 1111 1111 1111 0000 Stop -------- 1 horn Start 1111 1111 1100 0011 Stop -------- Start 0111 1111 1100 1011 Stop -------- 2 up Start 1110 1111 1110 0010 Stop 2+3+5 Start 0110 1111 1110 1010 Stop -------- 2 down Start 1110 1111 1101 0011 Stop 5+3+3 Start 0110 1111 1101 1011 Stop -------- 2 stop Start 1110 1111 1111 0001 Stop 5+4+4 Start 0110 1111 1111 1001 Stop -------- 2 horn Start 1110 1111 1100 0100 Stop -------- Start 0110 1111 1100 1100 Stop -------- 3 up Start 1101 1111 1110 0011 Stop 5+4+2 Start 0101 1111 1110 1011 Stop -------- 3 down Start 1101 1111 1101 0100 Stop 3+2+2 Start 0101 1111 1101 1100 Stop -------- 3 stop Start 1101 1111 1111 0010 Stop 5+4+5 Start 0101 1111 1111 1010 Stop -------- 3 horn Start 1101 1111 1100 0101 Stop -------- Start 0101 1111 1100 1101 Stop -------- 4 up Start 1100 1111 1110 0100 Stop 2+3+5 Start 0100 1111 1110 1100 Stop -------- 4 down Start 1100 1111 1110 0101 Stop 3+2+3 Start 0100 1111 1110 1101 Stop -------- 4 stop Start 0100 1111 1111 1011 Stop 3+2+3 Start 1100 1111 1111 0011 Stop 2+3+3 4 horn Start 1100 1111 1100 0110 Stop -------- Start 0100 1111 1100 1110 Stop -------- (STOP- button keeps repeating when hold, all others (UP, DOWN, HORN) send only once a message 1e nibble: bit1 bit2 bit3 bit4 Kanaal 1 toggle 1 1 1 Kanaal 2 toggle 1 1 0 Kanaal 3 toggle 1 0 1 Kanaal 4 toggle 1 0 0 2e nibble 1 1 1 1 bit1 bit2 bit3 bit4 3e nibble 1 1 Up 1 0 Down 0 1 Stop 1 1 Horn 1 0 4e nibble toggle ? ? ? (checksum ???) Togglebit reverse from 1st nibble bit1 Any additions/suggestions? I like them
  5. Hi everyone Last weekend the Bricking Bavaria 2022 took place in Fürth, Germany. LEGO builders from around Europe travelled to Fürth to show their models. This year large cranes, lang heavy load transporters and even a technic locomotive in scale 1:17 were shown. It was really inspiring to meet other builders and learn about their building techniques, concepts and how their model work. For all people who had not the possibility to come to BB22 I cut a video with as many models in action as possible.
  6. So i have this dead lego powerfunctions receiver laying around that i have fried a couple of years ago. the receiver part still works but the motor driver is completely dead so the led blinks as if it received something but no motor spins. My plan is now as i have a couple of ln 293d h-bridge drivers and a soldering iron to cut out the old driver and solder in the new one into an external breadboard which i will connect to the og pads. it will be a bit frankensteined but who cares if it works and you can save ressources in the process. has anyone of you ever done this and what are your thoughts about it? I will update this thread with progress once i come around to doing it.
  7. Hi guys, after several years of silence and other distractions i finally finished a new build. It's an AMG GT3 racecar in the colors of the Octan corporation. The only thing missing i guess is some sponsor decals from octan. The features are: - Drive and steering with powerfunctions (2 L motors, 1 servo) - Independent suspension on all wheels - Fake V8 engine - Working steeringwheel - Chassis is detachable from bodywork - openable bonnet/hood and doors Lately i'm a little bit into simracing and love to watch GT3 racing, so i decided to build my favorite car from this category of racecars. My availability of parts decided the colorscheme. I hope you like it. Enjoy building and have a nice time everyone. Rolf
  8. legotux

    Bad luck with PF hack...

    Following a successful build powering a seventies 4,5 volt locomotive via a PF receiver and a 4.8 volt 4xAA battery pack, I wanted to make a second one. But I had no spare 4.5V motors left, I have 4x 12 volt spares though. And the 12 volt motors run much faster than the 4,5 volt motors, so it would be great to build a similar thing with a 12 volt engine. I ordered a bunch of DC-DC converters, 3 pcs that convert 5V to 12V, and a few others, adjustable. I did some trials tonight. So a 4.8V battery pack, followed by the DC-DC converter, verified it's output is 12V, feeding that into a PF receiver, and its output to a 12V old seventies motor. The train ran very well in the test setup, both amazingly powerful and very fast. So I set out to build it together in a model. That's where trouble started. Upon connecting the battery with the DC-DC converter with connected PF receiver, smoke came out of the DC-DC converter. Afterwards, I connected the PF receiver to a lab supply, and it still worked. I reckoned I had a bad unit and took one of the other 3 identical units. That at first worked, but then I noticed that the same IC that had smoked on the first unit, got extremely hot here too. And the sad end result a few attempts later was that now, the PF receiver is dead. No light, no sign of life. No smoke either, but... And the lab power supply conforms it: it's dead. I don't think I did anything wrong. The DC-DC converter can handle 8 watts, which ought to be largely sufficient: I never observed a 12V motor drawing over 400mA current, not even when almost stalled. And the DC-DC converters started getting hot/smoking right away, so under no-load conditions. On the other hand, two devices failing in a row in the same manner seems no coincidence. I have other DC-DC converters that can handle more, but that is moot right now, because my PF receiver died so I can't continue doing tests. Did any of you have success with attempting something like this? I'll do a new attempt when I receive a new PF receiver, but any tips are of course welcome... Legotux
  9. All the photos plus descriptions are here: Finally, all the ordered parts have arrived and I could assemble and build and test it today. These are two 4.5V 70s/80s train motors, one in the tender and one in the 7720 loc. The tender also has a Power Functions receiver and a 4.8V NiMH battery pack. The charger is USB and the batteries can be charged via the plug, no need to remove anything. I tried to push-pull 17 wagons with it, which was succesful (engines in the middle). Then I tried to pull all 21 wagons I own (engines in front), which failed because the magnets wouldn't hold despite added thin neodymium magnet discs. I'll see about uploading a video if the quality is acceptable... Ah yes the roof of the tender wasn't finished yet in the video => And new attempt with all 21 wagons succeeded (23 wagons if you count the engines too): Legotux
  10. Hi! I'm thinking of replacing the second (non-motorized) bogie of a 10233 with another Power Functions train motor for extra strength and grip, if I can. I am aware that I may have to open up one motor to swap the C1+C2 wires to make them go in the same direction, this is not a problem. I have heard of the elusive V2.0 version of the PF receiver but I only have the normal, regular version. Can it drive the two motors or will it suffer from overheat/overcurrent shutdowns regularly? What are your experiences with two train motors on a single PF receiver? Thanks, Legotux
  11. My new creation: Lighthouse Size: 12L, 11W, 53H, cm Parts: 400 Weight: 600g Features: - Working lights - 360° rotation - Opening door - PF: 2x LED, M-motor, LiPo-battery, IR-receiver Video: The instruction is free, it's inside the video. Check the Rebrickable page for the inventory: More Photos:
  12. Hello! I'm a first time poster in the Technic forum, but thought that my inverted spirograph might be of interest. Rather than move the pen, I used a planetary gear setup to move the paper. Different gear combinations give different results, as does the pen position. The pen-holding frame is made up from a lot of 2 x 4 bricks, but the guts of the machine is a hard plastic wheel with internal gear teeth (I'm not sure of the correct name, but this is the part I used: Sadly the spirograph has now been dismantled--my son needed the parts for a Chima vehicle... Enjoy!
  13. Hello Guys, it has been a while since i last posted something in the forum but i have this issue with this old powerfunctions e motor that has this strange behavior: after you turn it on, it runs normaly for a few seconds and then it is getting slower and slower until it almost stops with zero torque. Do you guys know what causes that or how to fix this? i know how to solder stuff so i could do it myself. XG BC
  14. Hi, 10 years ago I made this with some left-overs: I Improve some skills and Lego also made a lot of new parts, so I remade from scratch this locomotive: 7wide, 50studs long, 2L PF motors, and the fan on top spins when it runs. This is a render, I don't have enough parts yet to build in real life. Hope you like it.
  15. Hello! This is my latest model: Volvo EC750E in 1:22 scale. Starting point is the 8043 "ultimate" with 6 motors for 6 functions. The undercarriage is 90% the same, I only had to make it 4 studs longer, and added some details. It also has tracks tensioners. 2 of the motors are hidden in the panel-built arm. In this way, I removed the universals joints in the pivot of the main boom, so it works more fluently, and the arm can be thinner (3 studs at the beginning, then 5 studs). The LAs are a bit shorter for this excavator, but I'm quite satisfied by the range of movement. The battery box is on the back and acts as a counterweight. The stickers are home-made. Pneumatic tubes are fake of course... I will make a video in the next days (and better photos). Happy new year to everybody!
  16. Sérgio

    [MOC] NMBS/SNCB Class 77

    Hi, I don't know much about this one, A person request me to design a 8 wide version of a Belgic Class 77, so this was the result:
  17. in this topic i wanns hear about the shortage of Lego motor and your ideas the subject discussion will be based on the Powerfunctions series motor & Powered Up Series motor and the contents are here 1. Size Compared to Old Motor, Powerfunctions & Powered Motors are bigger with planetary gear(to get more torqe However, instead of getting enough torque, sometimes the size of motor is too big and need your idea or opinion about it(like problem with big size or nice experience) 2. Shape(or design) there was an idea(M motor was oval type, and L&XL Motor were difficult to hold conrrecly because of the round shape) the Old lego, on the other hand, close to rectangle write any idea on it please :) 3. Building system(Coupling method) its really nice for me but sometimes the rc car's wheel was disassembled while running because of coherence weakness and hope the coherence of Pin & hole was more stronger. write any idea or your experience on it too please :) 4. specifications Imao the most frustrating part is specification especially torque i saw that many ppl use motor in parallel to get enough torque or just satisfied with just moving even slowly I'd like to hear your opinions. Thank you.
  18. Build myself a SiegeTank from Starcraft as i love that game :P
  19. There have been a couple of projects this year that have been a long time in the making. I have been happy to clean out The Queue over the past couple of months. This is a MOC of the most widely produced tank of all time. The T-54/T-55 series of tanks has its roots connecting back to the T-34 of WWII. This MOC represents the T-55a version, produced from about 1979 onwards. Basically, it means I got to build the AA gun on the top. Much more is at A video may be found .Features: Working left and right tracks, PF L, 1:1 Turret rotation, infinite rotation Gun elevation Suspension for all ten wheels Removable paneling And the right. The rear. Sorry about the single dark grey tile. The top of the turret. The snot work was fun. The internals. You can see the battery box, the turret mechanism, and the drive motors. The suspension is running down each side.
  20. Hello good people, I am finding interest again in Lego Technic (40 year old nostalgic dude from Holland). I bought myself the forementioned set which I will open not earlier till the holidays. I will need to get myself familiair again with the new technic bricks and systematics. I am also thinking of motorising the Claas Tractor and making it RC. Will be a nice challenge. Now, I read about the S brick receiver and thinking about buying this one for this project and a few motor units separate, incl. cables of course. What would you guys recommend in buying for this project in terms of motors? I would think the S brick, two servo motor's for steering and one XL motor for driving itself? And can this all be powered by the standard batteryholder that was included in the original set, through the S-Brick? Also, would this set in itself be suited for redoing or will be there be a lot of other parts be involved too? Just looking for some insights of people who have done this before. I do understand that this is a quite difficult task, but a man has to set dots on the horizon hehe Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
  21. It seems like all of my MOCs are being finished during the month of March. I present a Large Scale version of the Kalmar 180-9 forklift. I started this MOC last July, and after completing a number of other distractions, it's done. I'm please with the result. All pictures may be found on Flickr. The MOC features: Dual Stage Lift, PF L Forklift Tilt, PF M Steering, PF Servo Drive, PF XL Opening Doors Removable bodywork The lift is able to move three AA PF battery boxes (~600grams) to the height of 39 studs. Much more at Photo Photo 2 Lift Chassis Open Enjoy, and happy building.
  22. Hello, I'm Noah this is my first post in this forum. In this post I want to show you my recent build a remote controlled Pistenbully 600 inspired vehicle. This vehicle is used to prepare ski pistes. With the front blade you can move snow and the rear tiller crushes the hard pieces and flattens it after that. Motorized functions: -Driving forward/backward and turning/right. -Front blade moves up and down. -Rear tiller moves up and down. Manual functions: -Haedlight can be turned on by a switch. -Side flaps of the rear tiller can be adjusted. Powerfunctions used: - 1x Batterybox -2x IR receiver -4x M-motor -2x LED light -1x Switch A few more photo's:
  23. September 2013 the first WIP picture of my crane was uploaded, now 3,5 years later I dare to say the model is finished. In all these years I have faced a lot of technical challenges with this model, thought most of them are solved a few remain annoying (steering and drive). In the end I consider the model done and decided to learn from the not fully working features to improve on in later builds. Other tough challenges that were beaten in this model are: Fully capable outriggers that lift the complete model of its axles, Lift of the boom using a brick build linear actuator, fitting tens of meters of wire in the model to power all the led's. A full list of the features can be found at the end of the post. Even though I consider myself quite a purist a few elements of this model are not from TLC. For control the model uses 5 sbrick's together with a custom profile, enabling all the rc features I needed with a good signal . Since the PF led's are way to expensive and dull I decided to solder my own led's with the right color and a good brightness. The stickers are supplied by JaapTechnic. More pictures can be found on my flickr Full road configuration with 14.4 tons of ballast weight. The spreader plates are stored on the back. All the light are controlled by the Sbricks, this includes the indicators, beacons and reversing lights. Yes this actually lifts. With the jib mounted the piston is able to erect the then 1.7 meter boom to full height. Fully erected the model stands 2.6 meters tall. Even though the model faces a lot of technical challenges all of the details are added including full interior in both cabins. Full feature list. Motorized functions: Drive, Steering, Outriggers front and back, Compressor for the outriggers, Slewing, Boom lift, Boom extension, Winch, Cabin lift. Light functions: Normal driving lights, indicators, hazard lights, beacons, reversing lights, working lights on the superstructure. Other functions: All cabin doors open, Openable storage doors on the back, Full suspension, Folding jib with multiple angles, Folding safety railing.
  24. This project was sitting on my table for a while, so after a long weekend, I put together a body and bed, and finished it up. Flickr Album Features: 4 Wheel Drive with Portal Axles Dual PF L motors for drive PF M for steering PF M for two speed gearbox Linked pendular suspension Much more at
  25. Hi All, I'm doing a project, and would like to inverse one of the LED's in the 8870 PF lights. Seem to remember I saw something about this on the net long ago, but can't find it anymore - best I can find, is schematics over here. So, the big question is: Is there any MOD so the one LED lights up at +1 and the other at -1 on the output? Any inout is welcome.