Ryokeen

@killerfrostIf the inner Diameter is 6mm it might fit. Send you a pm

@killerfrost I'm afraid that it won't work that way. The part i designed is the male part of a "cv" joint that is supposed to fit into 1:10 and 1:8 scale RC axles with the matching female part. And the female rc axle parts are 10mm in diameter with 6mm diameter space in it where the ballhead of my part fits in. That won't fit in the Zene parts as they have max 8mm of space

Yeah but that's mostly on offroad(buggy) cars but i would add as much cast as needed for stable driving as caster for an onroad car is more about self centering and keeping the line than smoother suspension. I have an older nitro RC that is pretty fast and that thing got 2 degrees of caster angle(negative) and that is more than enough. I mean 30 degrees is a lot, never seen that on any onroad car. From my experience, if you go faster yes it is worth but you don't need super good ones. Main point is, just springs tend to bounce up and down a bit after they got compressed. That will lower your traction and at higher speeds that's bad for steering and breaking(breaking puts more tracton at the front where a 2wd can't break). Even cheap non oil springs have most of the time at least a friction dampening build in to reduce the bouncyness.

No particular reason, other than i knew how to mount 540er brushed motors and 3650 motors have almost the same mounting points. This is what i use for mounting, just some short m3 screws through the part 32814 holes and half liftarms to fill to a gap of 5 studs. The pinion gear then rests at pinhole level so everything that can mesh to a mod1 pinion gear(12 tooth or 16 tooth works best) can be used. I wouldn't recommend doing the steering like i did or how real rc cars do it as frictionless pins have way to much slack. I get away with it cause i use some metal pin replacements that sit very tightly and reduce slack a lot. So using a gear and rack might be better if you don't have such metal parts. At first i thought about adding caster angle but it would make the suspension way to complicated, because either one have to tilt the whole axle along with the steering mechanism or(and that should be possible) i would have to use RC Hubs with a build in cast angle. But from my experience on-road RCs hardly have caster angle, or if only a few degrees. 30 degrees sound way to much and makes steering way to hard. Honestly i don't know where i could make it more simple, but i misunderstand what you mean with that. The cassis itself is quite simple, it just might look a bit messy with all those cables. Thats's the brick build chassis without the rc components and stub wheelhubs and motor, around 470parts Well depends on the bodywork thats build ontop :) So far with tires it's 28 studs in width. And if you mean that the wheels might stick out during steering, the pivot/rotation point is actually only half a stud further towards the tire edge as when using the defender wheels.

A bit background about the last few months of tinkering: Some might have seen that a few users, including me, experimented with small non lego/bricks brushless motors and rc parts to build either smaller cars or trophy trucks. I had my own shot on a trophy truck but sadly at that scale some problems couldn't be solved properly. One of those problems was the wheel mounting, i did use hubs with ball bearings from Zenebricks, but with just pins holding them, they would still come of at higher corner speeds. But i didn't want to give up on fusing RC components and bricks, as i love rc cars and i love building stuff. So i thought maybe even with reinforcements a live axle/multilink suspension at RC speeds and offroad just won't work as i want. That's when i thought ok, then maybe some proper on-road or rally car, best with awd or at least 4wd to get more traction and stability. At that point i only had the Zene wheelhubs with bearings and some might have read the conversation about them, they are not suited for a driven and steered axle. I tried to solve that problem but it boiled down to the fact that i needed at least one custom part, either a shortened/custom u-joint or something else. And as i knew that m3 screws fit well into pins i figured that RC parts that are mounted with m3 screws might fit the lego system aswell, so i ordered some cheap tamiya parts as those are widly available and it did fit well. That set the direction for my experiments, fusing RC wheelhups with Lego/Bricks. But wait..they can't connect to Lego axles, so i needed an adapter. I found someone who helped me with a proper cad design and specs, as some of you might have seen in the brushless post, and i ordered some parts. I got them 2 weeks ago and it all worked so well and i build a small prototype. The advantages for me were/are huge, for one, except for the custom parts every other RC part is cheap to replace, all 4 wheelhups cost less than 10€ together. I can replace worn out ballbearings in the hub(and i can clean them) for very little money and there is almost no slack at all in the stearing. Apart from that, by using toe-in/out can be adjusted, left and right wheel steering can be adjusted and the big problem was solved..RC car tires are secured with a proper nut and won't just come of that easy. Fast forward, after all that text, here are some screens: More screens here -> Bricksafe gallery That is my current prototype chassis, currently with on-road touring tires with 82mm diameter. The whole layout is roughtly oriented on most on-road RC cars, except that i choose to center the motor to move it further back and get some weight on the rear axle. Also i choose to not use geekservos even thou it complicated the steering setup but with all that traction i was worried that the geekservo wasn't strong enough. Also i need them for another project, so i put in a cheaper 15kg servo. Features: AWD Adjustable ride height Adjustable steering Adjustable toe-in/out RC shock absorbers Aluminium axles Zene metal differentials Uses common 12mm (1:10 scale) hex mounts for wheels Internal gear ratio is 7.95:1 (spur and diffs) 3250kv brushless motor on 2s (3s possible) 82mm tires And now for the magic custom part: That small part provides the connection between how RC wheels are driven and the lego system and are currently made out of aluminium. It offers a 1 stud long axle part so any axle connector can be attached, be it an common axle connector or a u-joint. The movement range is a bit more than the old lego cv's, i would say about 40 degrees, but that also depends a bit on the RC axle part. A 2mm driveshaft pin needs to be pressed through the hole at the ball end, i designed it that way cause it's easier to manufacture and the pins tend to wear out after some time, so this way i could replace them. There you can see how it's used an the mentioned driveshaft pin that needs to be pressed in. They do need some space to move that's why there is an o ring in the RC axle and a small spring that pushes the driveshaft in a bit. That was only neccessary for the front axle as there is more movement. A first testdrive showed that all the work was worth it. The prototype is fast, stable and fun to drive until a screw(metal 2l pin substitude from a uk shop) got loose cause it was the only screw where i forgot to use locktide :D Next would be more testing and deciding what kind of bodywork i want to do. From the dimensions it's based on a Subaru Impreza WRC but a Skyline should fit aswell. Think it all depends on whether i can find good 80mm rally tires or not. Feel free to ask questions and discuss and thanks for all the fish.

So finally the last parts for a proper prototype arrive and so far it all fits nicely(except that i couldn't find 35mm m3 screws :D) So apart from the custom made adapter parts everything now can be replaced for little money. Ball bearings can be changed if worn out(Zene glues them), wheels are secured with a proper nut and almost 0 play in steering. Toe in/out and chamber(i think) can be easily adjusted but for me the biggest advantage is more wheels are and more narrow wheels. Everything with 12 hex fits. Also the pivot piont is better(not perfect) and is just on the edge of the wheel. So far, front driven and steered(lacks servo attachement yet) axle: How the tamiya parts are attached to lego parts. The spring adds some tension as the driveshaft needs some play. The adapter part can be seen in the wheel hub and attached to the axle connector. The axle connector is there so that different suspension arms lenghts can be used also together with the 2 3/4 axle it serves as a weak cheap link in case of an accident that can break.

The barcode garbage scanner truck in studless ? nice, a set i ever wanted and never had

As said, it was just a quick test build to see if the parts fit propery. Ofc the driveshaft is to long(but will always be about 1 stud longer) but even with the setup as in the picture there is a solid 3 stud suspension travel. Unlike lego cv-joints dogbones don't click or stay in position so they can move freely in and out of the axle in the wheelhub, together with an small o-ring that gives enough play. Once i get the needed pins and some other parts i can say more on how it performs, but for street cars or ralley ones it should work quite well and most parts are easy to replace if they break

Yep a lot of RC 1:10 models have hubs made this way. I assume they try to avoid balljoints on those parts(some larger 6s models do use balljoints but they are big enough for that). The dogbone shaft that are normally used to have play in it to move a bit in and out. Normally there are small O-rings in the pan part so account for that.

So in an attempt to get a proper AWD into my next project i designed(with some help) an adapter and the machined parts today arrived. So far it all fits and should work with any RC hub that uses dogbones with an end diameter of 6mm and 2mm thick pins. This is the adapter part(pins will be inserted later as they tend to wear out). The it can be directly connected to any lego axle hole, means axle connectors, u-joints and so on. This is how it fit's into RC wheel axles/hubs: And some small testbuild for a driven and steered axle: P.S. if anyone wants to have the cad file and specs i can upload them.

Epic, just epic but..it's almost to detailed to be accurate. Nice build, i would never have such an idea to replicate a music video theme :D

You might use 2 motors on one channel but need to reverse one of the motors, like if you have one motor left and one right. My thoughts on this, there is a difference in powering a servo and a DC motor. A DC motor still needs an ESC that transforms the PWM signal into either voltage or a PWM signal for DC motors. A servo has the needed electronics (simple comperator for pwm input and servo position) on board, a dc motor does not. @NoEXIST And very impressive work, a neat little box for rc cars and something that lego should have long done as a replacement for their weird RC thing they had.

@Krzychups I for myself can't recommend a specific brand. But i look for total width, so that it's max 2 studs wide, reviews about how likly they are to leak, a shaft of at least 3mm diameter and spring adjustments via a thread and not plastic spacers. Else maybe look it they are used as replacement parts in a similiar type or car that you want to build. Cause what often isn't stated or at least i never found it, is how big the holes in the shockabsorber are. You know the moving disc inside that builds the resistance against the oil. Cause i have some slim line shock absorbers that are pretty good, except that the holes are so small that even 100cps/cst oil is to thick for them to properly extend in less than 3 secs :D

And i just think, what good does a license does if it only costs money, is used as the biggest advertisment factor(cause none other :D ) and doesn't guarantee building quality or overall quality (think of the Hulkbuster...) I have the sad feeling that licenses show the current lego focussed(not in a bad mouth way, it's just we all grew up with that brand ;) ) that there are other serious competitors, as i somehow doubt that brands with a history of moc stealing or set copying will get proper licenses. So that on the other hand is a good thing. Thing about licenses is, if your marked is big enought, you get licenses a lot easier, after all the company (Lego, Cada, whoeverbricks) pays the license holder to be allowed to advertise them. All in hope to get more sales because of a selling point that in itself has nothing to do with a brick building toy(my opinion). But it sure is, for some, a selling point, i just don't get it :D Buuut what i wanted to say is, licenses are not needed for a good set, not does a license guarantees a good set. The "Grow some eggs" is just plain translated from german :D Proper phrase would be "grow some balls" where one could arguee that it does not refer only to males but females aswell, i mean ovaries are some sort of..balls :D

You know that it's just a phrase ? :D "Grow some eggs" just souds weirder About the licence stuff, i don't rly know why licences are such an important thing..Technic or Lego/bricks work just fine without, but need more creativity as you have to come up with something on your own.