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Found 12 results

  1. Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
  2. I am working on a trophy truck. I am having problems with the rear live-axles articulation. It only turns about 20 degrees. Is this because the links are located far away from the ball joint or is it something else?
  3. I think anyone who ever used the portal hubs came to this issue. The hubs simply have the steering pivot point so far from the center of the wheel, that you need to either reduce the steering angle, or have a model with large fenders. Today I came up with this simple mechanism to compensate for that by simply turning the whole front axle in the opposite direction. The two tilted 6L links are usually used to keep the axle from moving forwards/backwards. In my case they are attached to the steering rack at a high angle. Moving the steering rack will cause the geometry of the axle to change - rotating it to (mostly) compensate for the large pivot point: Of course this is just an idea for now, but it should be easy to implement on a real model. The wider the axle, the better the compensation. Of course the axle has to be designed in such way, that suspension, drive and steering system will be able to work with this degree of movement.
  4. I decided to open a seperate topic for this beast. Inspired by Letsbuild's idea to crawlify a Lego set, i decided to go full crazy and try to upgrade the biggest, heaviest and most orange set to date, Porsche 911 GT3 RS. First thing I built was the front axle, which uses the H frame as a placeholder for bewel gear, so there it no possible way of them to slip: Those with sharp eyes may notice the gears are not aligned, this was done in LDD development mode, more info soon The drive than goes directly to portal hubs with 1:3 gear ratio, giving the model 1:5 gear ratio on each wheel. Front axle also has a servo motor which steers the wheels and powers the Porsche's original steering wheel via a ball joint Rear axle powers the Porsche's gearbox via a couple of clutch gears in order to allow different motor speeds when steering or skid steering - Yes, this 4 kilogram heavy model can even skid steer thanks to its independent motor control. Here is the end result As with the original set, I kept the rear axle 2 studs wider than the front: For suspension I used 4 hard springs, which are hald compressed thanks to the model's immense weight. Due to the porsche's wide chassis springs are quite far apart, so the flex angle is not really big, but on the other hand that makes the model much more stable. Performance wise the crawler works very good, despite its massive weight, so far I had no broke U joints or gears and it has enough torque to skid its wheels on hard surface. Expect more pictures soon and a video soon.
  5. Today I present to you my latest build: a motorized monster truck, still unfinished. Now Finished! Background: It was started last weekend after reading Sariel's book, "Incredible Lego Technic," which featured Crowkiller's monster truck MOC. I looked it up on his website where he had a photo of the chassis and the words "This model could easily be modified to be motorized and driven..." Now you all know what happens next... The Original: Crowkiller's excellent model is a manual 4x4x4 monster truck, with 5 link live axle suspension with diffs, a central differential, all-wheel HoG steering, a fake V8 connected to the drivetrain, and a detachable, and therefore, interchangeable, body. The Motorized Truck: The chassis length was increased by two studs in order to accommodate the two L-motors used for driving. The suspension geometry remains the same, though I will probably have to use the hard shocks... A Servo motor was added to control steering, as well as a standard AA battery box and a V2 receiver. I wanted to keep the central differential, but it would have required the body to be too wide. I also tried to incorporate the V8 engine, but the Servo motor and the steering shaft restrict the placement of gears to connect the fake V8 currently. What Is Planned: 1. A body (or two, or three, or four). 2. Reinforcement of the steering. At the moment, if I crash into anything at speed, (which happens frequently ) the front portion of the axle will bend to the side where the impact occurred. Which is not good. 3. Changing to the hard shocks, as the additional weight is already causing the suspension to depress most of the way... What Is Finished: See below what has been done. Also, LDD file instructions are available here. Photos: Wip MT side Wip MT front Wip MT under The Model Is Now Finished! Free Instructions Are Now Available! Click Here! More photos and information is on Page 2! Monster Truck Thanks for looking, feel free to give your honest opinion (anything from "I love it!" to "Why the &%#@ are you copying other people's work?!" is acceptable ) and any advice you want to. - Leonardo da Bricki
  6. Leonardo da Bricki

    [WIP] Jeep Wrangler (Commando)

    I have decided, that for my 500th post, I should introduce my new project, my biggest yet. I have chosen to make a Jeep Commando, which is a 2015 Jeep Wrangler with mil-spec additions. Full description can be found here and here are a few photos: JC side JC rear quarter And here are the blueprints I clumsily made up from the ones I found online: Jeep_Wrangler_JK_Unlimited_5door_2012_600_lq_0001 I have done all the math to find the size, based off the wheels I plan to use, which are the 43.2mm rims with 81.6mm balloon tires. So, if everything works out, it will be 45-47 studs long (bumper-to-bumper), and 21 studs wide (including mirrors). The functions I plan on having are: 1. Full PF including drive, steering, gearbox, lockable diffs, both central and on axles. 2. winch, PF, not RC 3. Opening doors, hood, tailgate 4. Partial interior I will begin today, hopefully I'll have some progress to report tomorrow. C&C, comments, any advice is welcome. Thanks!
  7. G'day from Australia everyone! This is my first topic created on Eurobricks and my first serious MOC since the end of my "dark age". I'm seriously super glad to be here and keen to share my Technic creations with you all from now onward. With this in mind, if there's any way I can improve how/what I post, by all means let me know so I can keep everyone (including staff) content. I am committed to giving this site the full respect it deserves. :) As a few of you have suggested, it's a good idea when coming out of your dark age to develop designing/building skill by drawing on other people's MOCs for inspiration and guidance for different building techniques... Partially inspired by SevenStuds' recreation of Tim Cameron's rock bouncer "Showtime", I present my own 4x4 Rock Bouncer. Features.. Drive: 2 PF XL motors (1 per axle). Final ratio is 3:1. Steering: 1 PF Servo motor with rack and pinion Suspension/axles: Full-time locked solid live axles with portal hubs (geared 3:1), suspended by 9.5L shock absorber (soft) (2 per axle) and stabilized by a double triangulated four-link setup. Tires: Third party scale RC tires similar to the "Rock Crusher" by RC4WD. Battery: 1 x PF AA battery box Receiver: 1 x PF V2 I initially began designing some kind of rock crawler which was to include PF XL motors, third party tires of some description and (after quite a while researching suspension design) double triangulated four-link suspension. This kind of suspension is ideal as it provides maximum articulation and strength of the axle while eliminating the requirement for a Panhard Bar or Watts Linkage because the triangular positioning of the upper and lower control arms oppose each other, eliminating sway and allowing all desirable movement. By far the most difficult part of designing was the requirement for a steering shaft which moved harmoniously with the suspension cycle of the front axle. Because the upper control arms are shorter than the lower ones, the angle of the axle relative to the chassis changes through it's cycle and this means that when positioning the steering shaft, it must be such that the radius of it's motion doesn't change (due to angle change) as TLG doesn't offer any part which works purposely as a slip joint to negotiate the effect of plunge. After many, many, many... many attempts, a sweet spot was discovered which offered a negligible discrepancy. (This was a happy moment). It's biggest performance drawback would have to be that when the angle of climb and drive torque applied is too great, the rear lower control arms buckle and the rear axle begins to walk under the chassis. Trust me, it's cringe-worthy. With 15L beams instead of 16L links and consequently different suspension geometry, however, this could be resolved. The turning circle also suffers due to the wheel base. Overall, I am reasonably happy with the final product as it is capable of most of the things I intended it to be and in my opinion, the body could look worse. ;) I unfortunately don't have video footage, but I do have photos (see below). Enjoy! All comments welcome. :D
  8. What is CV-Project? The CV-Project (Construction Vehicles Project) is a project i started. It will be featuring a Tractor Unit (this Topic), a lowloader and a excavator. And maybe some other Vehicles. Introduction: My Name is Christopher and i am 14 years old. You are asking yourself, why i am telling you this? Because i maybe wont understand every word you will say Dimensions: Height: 24 cm Length: 42 cm Width: 15 cm Features: • Drive: 2XL Motors • Steering: Servo Motor geared down 1:3 • Live Axle Suspension on all axles • Detailed Cab and Interior Pictures: Tell me what you think. Thanks for reading
  9. Teo LEGO Technic

    [MOC] MAN TGS Dakar Truck

    Hey everyone, Here it is, after about half a year of on and off work, my new MOC, a working model of a MAN TGS Dakar Truck. A video showing all the functions: The chassis is entirely LEGO, and has: -Servo steering -4x4 transmission -2x buggy motor drive -live axles on front and back -opening doors -working lights It also has custom stickers, as well as a box for the rear, made of styrofoam board, acrylic stickers, glue, plastic sheets, and regular stickers, which took a while to perfect, but turned out pretty well in the end. Hope you guys like it!
  10. I got this idea yesterday and decided to build it. Its an improvmement of a classical torque tube suspension, but now it uses 2 torque tubes to form two half axles which are connected to each other via a turntable: To keep the half-axles from bending away there's a lower linkage made out of 5L suspension arms and some beams: So what's the difference btween this and classical single torque tube? Lets start with advantages: - No need for links or panhrads to keep the axle in place - Now each axle can have an independent drive, which cancel each other's torque therebye elimenating torque flex - Or you can use one ball joint for drive an dother for steering - Can carry much more torque And there are also some disadvantages: - Less flexible, maximum angle this setup can bend to is some 30 degrees - Steering is a bit more complicated, since the axles pivot in the center, you need some ball joints and links - Takes more space But you can even expand the concept to use three torque tubes. Now the side ones can carry power while the center one supports the steering system: This is just a concept for now, but I might try it in a realy model just to see how well it will work. What do you guys think? If possible try to build one your own and give me some feedback.
  11. After watching some youtube videos I noticed some trucks had some weird suspension on them... It looked something like this: So naturally I started investigating and found that this is a type of setup called a twin beam suspension. So I tried to replicate one in Lego. To explain the concept behind this hybrid, here's a series of stages leading from live axle suspension to the double beam setup: In order: Yellow setup is a live axle Red setup represent the change from dependent suspesnion to independent suspension By extending the half axle lengths (blue) we get a lower change in wheel angle relative to the drive surface (camber) And finally by extending the swing arms PASS the center point we get a double beam suspension And here's a version with drive and steering: So what are the advantages compared to the live axle? - Its independent, which as name suggest aloows the wheel to work independent from each other - Lower unsprung weight - Less moving parts - to keep a live axle in place you need several linkages. Here the axle pivots around one central point And disadvantages? - Complex design, the axles have to be made to travel pass each other without interfering. - A need for a CV joint which needs to allow the axle to slide in and out - Not as robust - Hard to implement portal gears without making the wheels slide sideways excessively - Camber changes are still present I also made a video explanation of the principe. You can skip to 4:30 to see the final version in action: So the final question. Is it useful? Fo me as far as the Lego version goes....no. The disadvantages outweigh any possible advantages. Also lately I have been working a lot on long travel double wishbone suspension which outperform any other previous suspension system in almost all categories. The only usefulness in this design I see is realism, if you are building a replica of a truck that has such suspnesion. Because I want to hear your opinion, here's the LDD link to the suspension, so you can try to make your version and improve upon my prototype: Download prototype here
  12. Zerobricks

    Baja truck

    A little somthing i made last weekend. Like the real one it uses independent suspension in front and a live axle at the rear. In order to simplify design the rear axle also houses the 2 drive RC motors and the gearbox, opretaed by the geared 9V motor. Gearbox allows the truck to either climb up smaller hills with 1:3 gear ratio, or to reach some 15 km/h on the straights.