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Found 174 results

  1. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  2. Hello everyone! Thanks to the purple Titanian, it took 18 months for coming back from yet another dark age in my life. Now I am here with yet another pickup truck. Design was inspired by Ford Raptor, Dodge Ram and GMC Sierra. Dacoma 4x4 Redux Weight: 1360g -Powered by Sbrick -2 L motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for two speed gearbox, (sort of) limited-slip center differential and lockable rear differential -LED for headlights -Openable hood,doors and tailgate Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMUH1YmF1F4&t=1s This is an improved version of my Dacoma pickup truck and TLC 80. I could not finish building instructions for them because they had fatal drawbacks on their drivetrain. In low gear, bevel gears in center differential often skip and pop out by the torque of propulsion motors. To make it reliable, it was necessary to reduce the stress on center diff while handling higher torque in low gear. The gearbox works sequentially. (1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 1) 1: High - 2: Low - 3: Low with rear diff lock In low gear, center diff works like limited-slip diff. In high gear, two L motors are coupled and rotate center differential together. Front and rear axles are driven via open center diff. In low gear, only one L motor rotates center diff. Another motor is connected only to rear axle. (In other words, it just supports rear half of drivetrain.) Which means rear half of axle in center diff is (nearly) locked. That means front half of axle in center diff is locked as well. Maximum suspension travel is not as long as older Dacoma truck. But new one articulates better thanks to softer front suspension. Years ago I happened to get some rare blue parts from old sets. So I could build it in blue. With a few tweaks, it can be built in white, orange or black. Building instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-25520/Madoca1977/dacoma-4x4-redux/#comments I hope you will like it. And I will work hard not to take a long time for sharing next model.
  3. Hi everybody! Half a year ago, the Suzuki company released a new generation of their famous mini SUVs - Suzuki Jimny and Suzuki Jimni Sierra(Wide edition). I, as a caring lover of this particular model, tried to repeat the same thing in Lego. That's what came out of it Specifications: 1:10 Scale All wheel drive 1.55 DC Chequired flag all terrain A/T tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO2) Solid Axles Constant rear diff lock The modular design (body and chassis are separate elements connected by 6 points. The body and chassis, in turn, consist of smaller modules - doors, hood, axles etc) Electrics: BuWizz brick (or AAA Lego battery box/LiPo unit + IR V2 Reciever/Sbrick) – battery and receiver 2L motors - movement Servo motor – steering 2 LED lights iOS/Android smartphone/pad with BuWizz app – Remote control Life’s too short to stay stock! Therefore, in this model I use tires DC CHEQUERED FLAG All-Terrain T/A (87x26x1.55), that are an exact copy of BF Goodrich T/A KO2. This gives the model more realism and improves off-road performance compared to original tires. For the same reason, I recommend to using alternative power sources, in this case BuWizz, which significantly expand the functionality of the model, reduce its weight and increase the power of the motors. At the same time, the design of the model allows the use of original Lego batteries (AAA or LiPo unit) together with the V2 receiver of Lego Power Functions More photos and building instruction you can find on my personal blog page Video review:
  4. Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
  5. Pan Dong presents. New mini truck, they are based on Unimog trucks. 4 wheel steering, this function is the focus of the building. Short wheelbase, portal axles, lightweight body. Two chassis models, like a RC car, one has server motor for steering, the other linear actuator and M motor . But , Both have the problem of turning to the imaginary position. L motor x2 for drive. I hope you'll like it.thankyou for watching. 樂高科技迷你卡車,Unimog 406/427,董攀設計,謝謝觀看! 這次拼裝的重點,在相對較短的軸距,實現四輪轉向,然後輕量化車身結構,模擬RC車的懸架扭動姿態。有兩種底盤模式,一個採用伺服馬達轉向,另一個是小推桿加M馬達。兩個L馬達驅動,RC輪胎。四輪轉向真是靈活很多,攀爬時候的優勢明顯,不過因為前後各採用兩組萬向節傳動,導致有明顯的虛位問題。伺服馬達轉向,效率直接,但是轉向有類似軸效應現象,車頭會左右擺動。小推桿加M馬達的組合,姿態很棒,不過向上攀爬時後橋壓力大,還是建議採用不轉向的後橋,會更加結實可靠。 Unimog 427 Unimog 406
  6. Hi everyone! I'm glad to present you the third version of my trial truck with a long prehistory and a slightly unusual design Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr Some history now: In the far-distant 2015 @Lucio Switch has built a titanic airfield firetruck that made a strong impression on me. The stunning set of functions, motorization, scale and appearance of this monster inspired me to build a modification. Searching for parts and construction took about a year. I wanted to not just change the color scheme or somehow improve already perfect truck - I wanted a total rework of the entire transmission, body and concept in general As a result, we got a truck with a loud name "Indominus Rex" and a claim to conquer the off-road. The 4 most powerful motors (5292) produced by Lego ever, differentials with limited slip (thanks @efferman for idea), planetary gear reduction in each of the eight wheels - all this allowed to overcome quite serious obstacles, even with weight of the model (6 kilograms) and dimensions (92x25x25 centimeters). Modification, judging by the opinions of AFOLs and the victory at the MOCs exhibition in Moscow Megabricks museum, turned out quite good. The flatbed body, a thin (3 pins) frame, a relief roof with air intakes and off-road rubber did their work - the truck moved away from the original as much as possible with the help of some solutions and design features. In the same 2016, in a New Year eve, I made another modification of the ACT truck. Indominus-2 was created specifically to participate in the winter truck trail competition in Moscow. No differentials, reduced weight (3.5 kilograms) with the same dimensions. Design was primitive, while preserving the common features of the original "front end". No serious ambition in the construction of this truck, it was initially clear that with its dimensions, it will not pass the road for off-road trucks. As a result, of course, the distance was overcome, but at the cost of one repair and loss of drive on three wheels out of eight (actually twelve, the two rear axles were with twin wheels) But a large number of positive emotions and feedback pushed me to an idea that this truck has not been exhausted yet. There were several attempts to build modifications of the same airfield truck in different versions, which ended, however, at the stage of creating the chassis (I wanted to do something fundamentally more light and durable). Later, I was distracted by building the truck with a crane from, again, @Lucio Switch This truck, being assembled completely in the original version, absorbed almost all my electrics, the technic frames and, in general, almost all the parts (17 motors, three battery packs, 13 meters of pneumohoses, 16 pneumatic cylinders and 131 technic panels). The idea of building another truck on the same scale from the remaining assortment of parts seemed simply insane. And at the beginning of 2018 I found a solution to two problems at once. I figured out how to build both an original and not too expensive in parts truck, which at the same time would inherit design and performance from its two predecessors. Why build the next four-axle monster, when the 4x4 format for trucks is still looks pretty? In addition, there was an opportunity to test my strength in terms of creating a MOC, and not modification. Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr I left only some recognizable elements from the original truck, which allowed to identify it as Indominus-3: сontours of the cabin, individual elements of the body kit, doors. The functional was done with an eye to the fact that this truck will participate in the February truck trial in Moscow (by the way, riding at -15C degrees turned out to be very "fun", even filming was not possible, everything was frozen, including phones and cameras). But, despite the "competitive" orientation, the equipment turned out to be more like the first version of Indominus: limited slip differentials (three pieces: front, rear and center), chains on wheels (homemade, from the jewelry chain), complex exterior and interior (with Duplo penguins!) Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr In additional: old pneumatic shock absorbers (very soft and long-stroke), anti-roll bar on both axles, portal gear reduction in pair to wheel planetary gear reduction. I used: 2х Buwizz v2, 4x RC buggy motor (5292), 1x Servo motor, 4x extension wire and Android app made by @imurvai to control this truck with gamepad (works very well and smooth, by the way) Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr In the end, in my opinion, this truck turned out quite bright and sturdy, and even with 4.5 kilograms weight can handle some offroad in the conditions of russian winter Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr I hope you liked this orange buddy as much as I do If someone is interested, I'll try to make a detailed review of technical features (with schematics and colorful pictures, yes ), video and some photos of the "nude" chassis. In conclusion, I want to thank @Shurik for great photos and @Limga for his endless patience and support throughout my entire AFOL path! Thank you all for attention! Update: I found a photo from the competition. One of the participants struggled to help me with a loose climb up the hill Update #2: Just filmed a little adventure in snow https://youtu.be/oVwOIyrj6wQ Update #3: Added a video with summer offroad https://youtu.be/CXFRc0i4dWg Update #4: Fun crawling video https://youtu.be/fusAL80vCZI
  7. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  8. Hey everyone, Here's my newest MOC, the Audi Quattro group B rally car. Hope you guys like it! Final by Teo's Technic, on Flickr It has -working steering with servo motor -4x4 drive with 2 x L motors and independent suspension -two speed RC gearbox -headlights -opening doors and hood. DSC06195 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06203 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr Final2 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06198 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr
  9. My own speed build video of LEGO Technic 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader. Funcionality review video will be later in august. Currently the control+ app is not available for download :D Speed-build video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgss_ZFzWEA
  10. Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41896c04#T=S&O={"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated!
  11. Hi, legofans! I have always been interested in American cars 70-80 years. In the list of some of the most unusual, I would place this here! Get acquainted my new creation of 2019 - Lego Chevrolet Silverado K30 Dually Crew Cab (Big Dooley) 4x4 lifted (absolute champion in title length) 1:13 Scale model of 1986 Chevrolet Silverado K30 crew cab dually. All wheel drive on two solid axles and 6 wheels with 68 mm RC4WD tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO1) The modular design (body cabin and chassis are separate elements connected by 7 points) Electrics include: BuWizz, XL motor, M motor and LED lights Specifications: 1:13 Scale All wheel drive 68 mm RC4WD tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO1) Solid Axles The modular design (body cabin and chassis are separate elements connected by 7 points) Electrics: BuWizz brick (or AAA Lego battery box/LiPo unit + IR V2 Reciever/SBrick) – battery and receiver XL motor - movement M motor – steering 2 LED lights iOS/Android smartphone/pad with BuWizz app – Remote control More information and photos you can find on my blog page. Building instruction is available now Video:
  12. Good Day everyone! After completing MPATEV-01 (video&LDD file coming soon) and not able to progress on Saber, decided to build something from my bucket list. And there was 8258 B. After a somewhat boring build process the final result was not very satisfying, so my first idea was to motorise it. However keeping the model as it is would be extremely boring, so the whole chassis and rear part were dismantled, leaving only the front, bonnet and hoods . Next a 4X4 (AWD probably but you've been clickbaited mwahahah ) with open diffs was made. No reduction from the XL motor but the one in-between driveshaft and diffs. On front there are two gray (old gray - undetermined type) springs and on the rear a leaf axle out of 9l links (idea by ZBLJ). Of course that horrendously enormous fake motor was kicked out and substituted with a cute mini V8. Interior is as crude as the original but now with even less foot space and a switch under the dashboard. Steering through M motor and hockey spring combo, M motor-powered winch controlled with the LBG connector on dashboard. For power I opted for a "classic" PF receiver and custom wired 9V battery neatly fixed with a net in the bed. Overall not the best performance but it's quick yet (relatively) powerful. Front winch is detacheable to improve climbing angle (approximately 50 degrees maximum). I haven't named it a MOD because most of it was made from zero, and the N2 is because this is a successor to one of my early RC MOCs - pickup N1 https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/127500-moc-4x4-off-road-pickup-n1/ (my imitation of 9398 as I couldn't afford one and still can't) LDD file DOWNLOAD Video: (sorry it's 30° outside, batteries died and I ain't frying myself 2 times for some offroading outside ) Have a nice weekend, Cya later!
  13. Zerobricks

    Tiger 4 x 4 x 4

    After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/tiger-4x4x4/Tiger 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center.
  14. Hello everybody! It has been a while since I posted a picture of two MOCs. In November 2016, I took those models and red Avtoros Shaman to Russia for participating in Lego event held in Moscow. It was an amazing trip. (You can see many pictures of the event on that topic.) When I drove two models in the event, I found that each one had some problems on their chassis. So I started to fix them after coming back to Japan. It took too many hours to finish despite of minor modifications. The reason was that I happened to come up with another 4x4 idea during the work. (I will take a month to finish it...) Anyway, I introduce two MOCs that helped me a lot to communicate with Russian builders. AWD Pickup "Dacoma" -Weight: 1090g -2x L motors for 4x4 driving with three differentials -Servo motor for steering -Two speed gearbox (manual) -Lockable center and rear differential (manual) -LED for headlights -Openable hood, doors with lock, tailgate The design was inspired by Toyota Tacoma. Also the strange name is an anagram of Madoca. It has independent suspension on front axle like many real pickup trucks do. I used hard shock absorbers on it because soft ones could not hold the weight even using two for each side. (There is the space left for extra shocks.) As a result, front suspension became a little bit too hard. The articulation of axles is mostly realized by softer rear suspension. The model was made to go over obstacles on tough trial course in the event. In some situation, locked rear differential helped it to avoid from getting stuck. But it really suffered from low ground clearance and small articulation. And the torque of geared down hard-coupled L motors damaged bevel gears in central diff. I concluded that it could be a decent off roader, but never be a crawler. I am making instructions. It will be available on Rebrickable. Hatchback Type R -Weight: 600g -L motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -LED for headlights -Front axle has positive caster angle -Openable hood and roof This small RWD Hatchback was made for speed racing of small cars. For propulsion, only one L motor was allowed to use by the regulation. The output is geared up 1:3 and meshed with old type differential gear. It is fun to drive on large and flat surface. I set front axle at positive caster angle for better straight line stability. But in real life, it did not work well. On the narrow race track, I could barely keep the model running straight. It had noticeable backlash on steering. Besides, controlling fast car via touch panel of smartphone was not easy. Although I fully enjoyed the race, my driving skill surely seemed shockingly bad to Russian builders! Building instructions available at Rebrickable!
  15. Hey Eurobricks, PunktacoNYC back again with another rock crawler! This time it's called the Rocket Crawler and it is my largest, fastest crawler yet. Youtube video: Features: - 4 L-Motors for drive (one per wheel) - Ackerman steering with custom virtual pivot system to maximize steering angle - Rigid, triangulated 4-link suspension with 100% Lego-legal original, extra large links - Very minimal, light bodywork, and a cute rocket atop the cab - BuWizz for extra power and SBrick for a great custom control scheme - RC4WD 2.2” Bully Competition Tires The initial inspiration for this crawler was twofold; I wanted to build a RC competition super-class-like crawler, what with giant relative wheel size, slim body, and high articulation. I also really wanted to make use of RC4WD's quite large Bully competition tires. This project has been in development for over a year thanks primarily to issues with the front axle. The problem with the front axle was that Lego universal joints simply could not handle the high torque required to spin such large tires. I tried using custom Lego universal joints custom dremeled brass remote-controlled boat u-joints, and even knob gears at the pivot point - nothing worked. So, I mounted the motors directly to the wheels, all within a virtual system to move the steering pivot closer to the center of the wheel for a better turning radius. There is approximately 90° of articulation between the front and rear axles: Easily adjustable suspension height: (high) (medium) (low) The chassis: Wheel comparison: Concept 1: Concept 2 (later): This has been my favorite project. Let me know what you think. P.s. I got a snupps page (nice idea, Sariel): https://www.snupps.com/punktaconyc
  16. Presenting another trial truck - 4x4 - PF: XL, Servo, IR, LiPo - Leaf spring front suspension - Double soft shock rear suspension - Panhar rods for both axles - Opening hood - Removable body. Prepared it for the Trial contest in Moscow, but couldn't come there, then participated in the Truck Trial competition in St. Petersburg. You can watch the performance here: Time: 13:41 and 54:33.
  17. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  18. Yes, there are dozens upon dozens of LEGO models of the Sherp ATV. I’ve only decided to build my own because I had this idea about how a suspension could be added to it (yes, the real Sherp has suspension according to the manufacturer) and I just had to try it out. The result is a dead simple vehicle that can go 7 KPH on flat terrain and literally rips through snow: Photos & reading: http://sariel.pl/2019/01/sherp-atv/
  19. So here's the idea: seeing as all large and complex Technic submissions have failed on LEGO Ideas so far, I set out to create a very small and simple, yet fully functional 4x4 crawler. This is the result, which can be considered the 9398 set on a budget ;) as it offers pretty much the same functionality in a considerably smaller package. If you're willing to give this project a shot at becoming a set (a Technic Ideas set would be nice, at long last), please support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/ba4cebf3-1f80-497d-9ecb-faee2dbc1df3 Photos and description: http://sariel.pl/2018/11/4x4-jeep-wrangler-trailcat/
  20. Hello All! It is winter time, so I am bit more busy on Legoing. After seeing, that @Didumos69 started his 4x4 buggy project, I looked into a bit deeper the Ultra 4 racing, and the rigs been driven in this extreme events. Finally the video, what I linked to his topic, triggered the work on another MOC: the Ultra 4 buggy. Here is another video to see the interesting bits of independent suspension system on this beast: Still, I might end up with IFS (independent front suspension) and solid axle with torque bar for the rear, but the body is heavily inspired by the Lasernut buggy. Parameters: 2x L motors 1x servo motor AAA battery box - in order to be replace ability with BuWizz in case IR control Let's look at into the progress a bit, maybe it is interesting to read. I started on 28. november with LDD model. To set the proportions, and the body ideas, I usually place the essential parts free in space first. Check the real inspiration thing and the very first sketch: After that I added the electronic parts, to check the necessary minimum space. (Unfortunately Stud.io has corrupt models, so some cover parts of the motors are just not present.) At this stage, I built the front axle, to see how can I integrate the steering. The answer is: massive fail. So back to drawing table, I deleted the 5x7 frame, and started to figure out, how to connect the needed fixation points for swingarms, servo. Due to this, the model gets more complex than I thought, but buildability is always first! I recommend to check meanwhile IRL building too, or at least stop by and thinking about how to add the related parts. I was hopeing for a simple MOC, but I ended up already a pretty complex assembly, so I made each step with double check. Later on, I will try to add groups in LDD to represent the buildability order too. So far the front module with steering and IFS is ready, the middle module is almost done, I am wondering about interchangable solid axle or independent solution for the rear - not sure yet. Also the color is to be decided yet, as the springs type as well (soft or hard). I think if soft ones will be OK, than I go for white body, as it presents the "rollcage" better. In case the yellow hard shock absorbers will be needed, of course the only choice is: full MEAN black body. This picture shows the advantage of the white body, and also a comparison for tyre types: 3740 on the left, 45982 on the right, both on 56908 wheels. So far 407 parts, and I guess it is about 70-75% ready. I need to figure out how to fix the roof, and create a solid, but easily disconnectable rear module. Necessary parts are ordered, so real build pics might come in couple weeks first. And how is the road presence? I guess it will be pretty much like a punch in the face. p.s.: Yet another WIP, I hope for long winter nights, to finish at least some of my unfinished projects...
  21. Sorry about the earlier post if you viewed I couldn't add pics for some reason. Anyway, here I present Tundra a 4x4 monster truck with front and rear steering. Power is from 4 XL motors driving a wheel each. I've been working on it on and off for months so be kind ha ha. The hardest parts have been to get hubs that dont rip themselves apart, and I had to go down the non-Lego route for universal joints as they fell apart at the slightest bit of torque. The tyres are also non-Lego so I do apologise to the purists. I hope to get a video up soon of this beast in action. Just need to find some where suitable to give her a good work out. T1 by James Harrison, on Flickr The Hubs T4 by James Harrison, on Flickr Body Off T2 by James Harrison, on Flickr Front Axle T10 by James Harrison, on Flickr
  22. Hello everyone! It has been a while since I last posted on this forum. In November I tripped to Russia again for participating LEGO event held in Moscow. This year, my friend Rm8 gave me the opportunity to make video review of my models together at his studio. You might have seen the review of Jeep Wranglers. And this is the other model that I first had a presentation to Russian builders in the event. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Weight: 1520g -XL motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for front winch -M motor for two speed gearbox and center/rear differential lock -LEDs for front and rear lights Everything started from the issue of center differential in the drivetrain of my previous Pickup. After driving on serious off-road I found that bevel gears in center differential got damaged and often slipped. So I tried to find the way to reinforce gear meshing in 4L differential. In conclusion, I still have not succeeded. Every attempt was not strong enough for transmitting the torque of geared down (3:1) XL motor. In extreme situation floating fourth bevel gear was pushed out by the force of twisting differential housing. I was even hoping new red 4L differential could hold four bevel gears tightly in it, but it does not. So I used the second one in the picture above. (just insert 1L technic brick for holding both side of axles tighter) While attempting several ideas of transmission, I was building another 4x4 model using three differentials. Eventually it became the most advanced version of my SUV models yet being over complex and less reliable. The main feature is sequentially working gearbox and diff lock system. I used Didumos69's Compact 90 degree stepper idea for switching four modes. (0→1→2→3→0 ...) 0: high gear 1: low gear 2: low gear with center diff lock 3: low gear with center/rear diff lock You can see it working in the second half of this video filmed by Rm8. I used M motor instead of Servo motor for switching modes because there was no space for it under the driver's seat. It is necessary to stop motor rotation when stepper axle comes to the right position. Actually this model is too heavy for real off road driving. Center differential often suffered the load, and it was a little bit tricky to operate sequential mechanism precisely from a distance. So I built a lighter and simplified version only using XL and Servo motor. It has softer rear suspension, manual gearbox and center/rear limited slip differential. (Weight: 1260g) Ironically it worked better than fully equipped version even lacking diff lock system. Thanks to soft suspension it has better axle articulation. All four tires well kept contact with the ground. I put it on rocky surface just for taking pictures. Actually it could not climb over those rocks, though. I am making building instructions for both versions. I hope you will like it!
  23. Hello to all, I am new here and wanted to share my very first creation with you. This is Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 pick-up. I build it by using bricks from following sets 42000,42030,42042,42043. I took inspiration from RM8 creations but also in the past I was driving this car quite a lot in raw conditions and I have big sentiment related with this Toyota model. Pix and Video are not pro quality as this is my very first approach to build and share LEGO creation so please don't judge me too harshly form this point of view. I hope you will enjoy looking at this model. In the near future I have plan to make simple video how to build it. Under the below links you will find pix and video. https://www.flickr.com/gp/156725712@N06/bP6n4Q Below is video instruction for Lego Technic Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 - body (part 2). Unfortunately due to file size restriction in my camera, there is missing small part of the video where is shown how to build roof and back side of the body. However this two missing bits are easy to reproduce based on the pix. For those who would like to built this body it can be also good opportunity to put a bit of own invention.
  24. Greetings, ladies and gentlemen! I'm glad to introduce you a modification of @Didumos69 Greyhound buggy Yeah, "Mad Max" inspired vehicle again First idea was just "increase durability and add some crawler abilities", but result exceed all my expectations. Adding planetary gear reduction 4:1 to all wheels increase offroad capabilities to sky high (keeping in mind perfectly working suspension of original) And final step - I decide to prepare for summer offroad Lego event in Moscow and for future festival, so I reworked exterior in postapocalyptic style. Other photos Here is LDD model of front hub with planetary gear reduction I used in my modification. Rear hub is done similarly, except for black connectors to suspension arms and without U-joint. Bonus: video from "King of the Hammers" race event in Moscow and photo from "Summer Brick" Lego festival in Taganrog, Russia Thanks to @Didumos69 for his amazing buggy and instructions, and also to @Shurik & @VerSen for cool photos! Hope you like this rusty piece of metal!
  25. The Black Crow is the ideal adventure 4x4 for the discerning gentleman like Lester looking to travel the world in style and comfort. There is ample storage room in both the back and the roof for all life's necessities. The powerful engine will get you over all terrain and is easily accessed and maintained. A fold-out awning provides shelter from sun and rain alike while you examine the treasures of your travels or enjoy a well earned cup of tea. Adventure Awaits!