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Found 182 results

  1. Hello everyone! It has been a while since I last posted on this forum. In November I tripped to Russia again for participating LEGO event held in Moscow. This year, my friend Rm8 gave me the opportunity to make video review of my models together at his studio. You might have seen the review of Jeep Wranglers. And this is the other model that I first had a presentation to Russian builders in the event. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Weight: 1520g -XL motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for front winch -M motor for two speed gearbox and center/rear differential lock -LEDs for front and rear lights Everything started from the issue of center differential in the drivetrain of my previous Pickup. After driving on serious off-road I found that bevel gears in center differential got damaged and often slipped. So I tried to find the way to reinforce gear meshing in 4L differential. In conclusion, I still have not succeeded. Every attempt was not strong enough for transmitting the torque of geared down (3:1) XL motor. In extreme situation floating fourth bevel gear was pushed out by the force of twisting differential housing. I was even hoping new red 4L differential could hold four bevel gears tightly in it, but it does not. So I used the second one in the picture above. (just insert 1L technic brick for holding both side of axles tighter) While attempting several ideas of transmission, I was building another 4x4 model using three differentials. Eventually it became the most advanced version of my SUV models yet being over complex and less reliable. The main feature is sequentially working gearbox and diff lock system. I used Didumos69's Compact 90 degree stepper idea for switching four modes. (0→1→2→3→0 ...) 0: high gear 1: low gear 2: low gear with center diff lock 3: low gear with center/rear diff lock You can see it working in the second half of this video filmed by Rm8. I used M motor instead of Servo motor for switching modes because there was no space for it under the driver's seat. It is necessary to stop motor rotation when stepper axle comes to the right position. Actually this model is too heavy for real off road driving. Center differential often suffered the load, and it was a little bit tricky to operate sequential mechanism precisely from a distance. So I built a lighter and simplified version only using XL and Servo motor. It has softer rear suspension, manual gearbox and center/rear limited slip differential. (Weight: 1260g) Ironically it worked better than fully equipped version even lacking diff lock system. Thanks to soft suspension it has better axle articulation. All four tires well kept contact with the ground. I put it on rocky surface just for taking pictures. Actually it could not climb over those rocks, though. I am making building instructions for both versions. I hope you will like it!
  2. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But this time I have prepared something special! Meet the Chevrolet K10 Silverado!!! Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/chevrolet-k10-silverado-1985 For the first time I used the construction of the chassis separately from the body, that is, the body can be easily removed and any other body can be built on the chassis.
  3. Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
  4. Hi guys! I'd start saying this thread is more to ask you some suggestions than to show you the model itself :P I think i already told you that the shop wich is sponsoring me http://www.mangiobricks.com asked me to build something that they can sell as a custom model right? At first, they wanted the fiat panda i made last year but i wasn't satisfied by it due to its untidyness... so i made something that i think it's better and wich performs better than every expectations i had As it's made to be sold (hopefully) i couldn't call it with the real counterpart name....but i think it should be quite clear where i took inspiration from :P it's really simple and it's made trying to use the less amount of pieces possible to keep everything clean and tidy performances are really good, even if the most of the weight is in the back of it, it crawls really good having some nice ground clearance and good speed as well! i don't know how many of you could be interested in buying something like this as many of you are great reverse engineers :P but let's say you have the chance to buy a custom model, how would you prefer it? i mean, do you think i should make it with motors or just ready to be motorized? what else could i change to make it more attractive? should i add more functions or just stay on "less is more" concept? ill wait for your suggestions guys! in the meanwhile have a look at some pictures of it! hope you'll like it :)
  5. This MOC is almost one year old and was made to participate in Moscow BrickFest 2019 Trophy&Trial competition. According to rules of competition, models need to have differential on both axles. I wanted to make a model with independent suspension and decent drive ability and that is the main reason for engineering solutions in this model, including old differentials being shifted towards the middle of the chassis. The drivetrains are organized with swinging gear meshing which are acting like inner CV-joint. - 2 L-motors for propulsion - Servo-motor for steering - Li-Po battery block - SBrick for control Front suspension is independent and based on McPherson strut suspension. Front wheel are supported with strut and lower arms. Rubbers bands on lower arms are used as springing elements. Lower arms are made of thin liftarms to make driven axle possible with good clearance. All three motors are integrated in front suspension, being as low as possible to ensure low center of gravity and enough space in chassis for shifted differentials. Rear suspension is just another classic double wishbone suspension with pretty long travel. On the rear I used planetary hubs from 42099 set to ensure that CV-joint won't break under the load. Wheels rotation speed is synchronized via gear ratios, drivetrains to front and rear axles are separated and each one uses its own motor. Suspension is quite soft and sink a little under it own weight but keeps about middle position during driving. Overall design was inspired by Safari editions of classic Porsche 911. And some WIP-photos: WIP-photos with first prototype of strut, that was broken by rubber bands tension : And some boastful photo of suspension travel I think of this model as of unfinished, but I don't have neither time or will to finish it, especially regarding the exterior. I have plans for another iteration of "Porsche-like" offroader with another unusual drivetrain. Thank you for you attention! I will appreciate any comments.
  6. - 4x4 - Spring shocks suspension at the front - Leaf springs at the rear - Opening doors with locks, bonnet, tailgate - Removable body - 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo ***
  7. Zerobricks

    Tiger 4 x 4 x 4

    After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/tiger-4x4x4/Tiger 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center.
  8. Hello there! American all-wheel drive pickup from GMC. The model is built as a continuation of the Chevy K30 Big Dooley published in 2019. Of the main differences - the muzzle of an earlier generation, a shorter base, the design of the frame and bridges was changed. Planetary hubs and CV joints are used in driveshafts from 42099. Drive - for each axle by L motor. Steering - M motor, Power - BuWizz, a canister with gasoline in the back, spare wheel, shovel and a box of lemonade More photos
  9. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  10. Hello to all, I am new here and wanted to share my very first creation with you. This is Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 pick-up. I build it by using bricks from following sets 42000,42030,42042,42043. I took inspiration from RM8 creations but also in the past I was driving this car quite a lot in raw conditions and I have big sentiment related with this Toyota model. Pix and Video are not pro quality as this is my very first approach to build and share LEGO creation so please don't judge me too harshly form this point of view. I hope you will enjoy looking at this model. In the near future I have plan to make simple video how to build it. Under the below links you will find pix and video. https://www.flickr.com/gp/156725712@N06/bP6n4Q Below is video instruction for Lego Technic Toyota Land Cruiser FJ70 - body (part 2). Unfortunately due to file size restriction in my camera, there is missing small part of the video where is shown how to build roof and back side of the body. However this two missing bits are easy to reproduce based on the pix. For those who would like to built this body it can be also good opportunity to put a bit of own invention.
  11. These days all we have a lot of free time, excepting the public services, who are working working hard for us. This is an small tribute to all these people. The URO 4x4 is mainly used in Spain by the firefighters, but also for the UME (Military Emergency Unit). I´ve tried to replicate it with Lego Thecnic, but trying to get the closest appearance instead a lot os mechanism. Just suspensions and winch. Even with this, is so heavy! Aprox 3 Kg and more than 60 cm long. Hope you like it! And the original one. Really a big beast!
  12. Hello everyone !! This is my new Moc, a Custom 4x4 Pick-up, it isn't inspired by any real model, although it reminds me of some, but I don't know which one! I started some time ago to build a 4x4 where I used 2 RC Motors. To obtain good performance, I built it as a rc car ..... a chassis with a removable light silhouette that was mounted above it. It worked well, but I had some problems of interference in the system rc, and I was not able to make a good video without seeing an idiot running behind it at one meter away. So, waiting to buy two Lipo batteries, I decided to convert it to PF system (XL motors) and add some detail, since the first version was very simple to save some weight. So this is the result: It 'a 4x4 RC custom Pick up with three differentials and full independent suspensions. It has openable gull-wing doors via manual controls in the trunk, that's openable too, even the bonnet is openable with slowed opening. Under the bonnet, there is a fake working V8 engine with compressor on the top, some minor engine compartment details, like the battery or the radiator cap, and the complete exhaust lines. Even the interiors have a dashboard, pedals, gearbox command.... It uses a servo motor for steering and 2XL motors for drive. Lenght : 56 studs (44.8 cm) Width: 27 studs (21.6 cm) Height: 25 studs (20 cm) Weight: 2,1 kg I will add a video, hopefully during the Christmas holidays. I hope you enjoy! IMG_9672 by Lucio Switch, on Flickr IMG_9687 by Lucio Switch, on Flickr IMG_9695 by Lucio Switch, on Flickr For more and hi-quality pics take a look here: https://www.flickr.c...57649756711806/ or, for more info visit Mocpages: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/402617
  13. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  14. The Fiat Panda is an Italian utility car created for all needs. It's known for its simplicity but above all for its ability to do almost everything. The 4x4 version, despite the 50 hp, is capable of climbing on various types of terrain, in fact it is also used for trials (just change the wheels). I wanted to create it in a small offroad version. The design is quite similar to the real model even if with some difference like the roof. I added a front bumper with 2 PF Lights, very useful for night rides, and a winch (you can see how it works at the end of the video). 1 PF L Motor for propulsion with a 2 speed gearbox and a 4x4 transmission without differential (I added a second reinforcement gear in the rear axle). The gearbox is compact and strong enough and the winch system is connected to it. The total gear ratio is: First Gear 1:3.33; Second Gear 1:1.67. Pendular suspension for good stability on rough terrain, even if the model is not high enough to work properly :(. The rear opening hatch and the small trailer are good for transporting small loads. The old model was very squarish and very low so I had to revise it more carefully.
  15. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  16. Zerobricks

    Mini 4x4 racer

    For an exhibition I made a small Corvette-scaled car with an RC motor powering rear wheels. Powered by Buwizz, that model turned to be totally uncontrollable, with epic amount of oversteer at low speed and underster at high speed. So I got an idea. Why not make a 4x4 version of a miniature car? My worries were that the added complexity needed to power the front wheels will increase the complexity, weight and reduce the performance... But I decided to give it a shot anyway. The first version used a chain drive to front the front wheels from the rear axle, but that was soon scrapped due to the poor strength of the chain. So after replacing the chain drive with an axial driveline, I came up with this little, yet powerful model. The front wheels are an older 49,6 x 28VR type which use softer rubber than the rear ones. This way the car tends to oversteer less: In the rear DUAL 49,5 X 20 are used to give it as much traction area as possible: The bodywork can easily be removed to expose a torque-tube sytled chassis and a simple interrior: A servo motor steers the front wheels via a rack. Maximum steering angle is around 22,5 degrees: 3x11 panels are used as the main chassis, giving the model very high rigidity, while keeping the weight low: According to LDD the model is made of less than 400 bricks, less than to the upcoming 42109: The front wheels are powered directly by the rear axle via 20:12----12:20 gear sequence. There are no differentials, since the model reaches high enough speeds for wheels to understeer and slip in the corners anyway. Technical specs: Length: 25 cm Width: 14 cm Height: 10 cm Weight: 575 g Theoretical top speed: ~18 km/h Even with 4x4 drive, the racer still powerslides all 4 wheels even in just the normal mode, as you can see in the quick and drity slo-mo gif I made: I was pleasantly suprised by the amount of control you get with the added FWD. No longer am I at the mercy of the rear wheels to stop the car from crashing into a wall. Accelreation is of course much better, making this one of the fastest accelerating models I made. Oversteer has been reduced, but there is still plenty of power left to powerslide the model with all 4 wheels spinning. Stay tuned for a proper video showing off the performance soon.
  17. Pan Dong presents. New mini truck, they are based on Unimog trucks. 4 wheel steering, this function is the focus of the building. Short wheelbase, portal axles, lightweight body. Two chassis models, like a RC car, one has server motor for steering, the other linear actuator and M motor . But , Both have the problem of turning to the imaginary position. L motor x2 for drive. I hope you'll like it.thankyou for watching. 樂高科技迷你卡車,Unimog 406/427,董攀設計,謝謝觀看! 這次拼裝的重點,在相對較短的軸距,實現四輪轉向,然後輕量化車身結構,模擬RC車的懸架扭動姿態。有兩種底盤模式,一個採用伺服馬達轉向,另一個是小推桿加M馬達。兩個L馬達驅動,RC輪胎。四輪轉向真是靈活很多,攀爬時候的優勢明顯,不過因為前後各採用兩組萬向節傳動,導致有明顯的虛位問題。伺服馬達轉向,效率直接,但是轉向有類似軸效應現象,車頭會左右擺動。小推桿加M馬達的組合,姿態很棒,不過向上攀爬時後橋壓力大,還是建議採用不轉向的後橋,會更加結實可靠。 Unimog 427 Upgrade Version Unimog 406
  18. Another MOD of the fantastic 8081 set is done! Styled after a LR Defender pickup, this MOD features the following: 4x4 drive. Steering Front and Rear live axle suspension with Panhard rods Opening doors and tailgate Seating for four V-8 fake engine Roll cage Fischertechnic 80mm tires. Full album is here. Driveline From the left Articulation I'm still working on the sport pickup, but this should be good for now.
  19. Teo LEGO Technic

    [MOC] URAL 4320 Trial Truck

    Hey everyone! First of all Happy New Year to everybody! Here's my last MOC of 2019, a URAL 4320 4x4 Trial Truck. It features: -working steering with servo motor and adjustable working steering wheel -4x4 drive with 2 differentials powered by 2 x power functions XL motors, and fed by 2 x 2.0 pf receivers and 2 x lithium battery boxes -opening doors -working lights A couple pictures of the model, more on here: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/Teo_LEGO_Technic/ural-truck My main goal with this project was to make a robust trial truck with tons of ground clearance and tons of torque and solid steering, while not having anything be at risk of breaking. For this reason I have an XL on each axle, as a 5 x 7 frame with a differential can hold the full torque of one XL without damage to the gears. Extra torque was achieved by using the Unimog portal axles. The truck can stand Sariel's wall test, i.e. when the wheels lock up on a grippy terrain no gears break anywhere. The steering is also precise, with no intermediate gears between the servo motor and the rack and pinion system. It too can handle the full power of the servo without any danger of breakage. The suspension too is robust and meant to operate as smoothly as possible. Putting the battery boxes low down on the sides helps it be as difficult to topple over as possible, bearing in mind how high it is off the ground. My secondary goal was to emulate the rugged look of Ural trucks, which only look as good as they should when every little curve and angle is modelled like the real thing. This includes the curvature of the front grill, the form of the bonnet, the angled headlight frames, and the subtly angles and tilted front windshield. I'm fairly satisfied with the result, and overall it's a truck I'm pretty happy with. Nothing super fancy, no gearbox, just a solid chassis and a good-looking body. Hope you guys enjoyed it!!
  20. Hello everyone! Thanks to the purple Titanian, it took 18 months for coming back from yet another dark age in my life. Now I am here with yet another pickup truck. Design was inspired by Ford Raptor, Dodge Ram and GMC Sierra. Dacoma 4x4 Redux Weight: 1360g -Powered by Sbrick -2 L motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for two speed gearbox, (sort of) limited-slip center differential and lockable rear differential -LED for headlights -Openable hood,doors and tailgate Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMUH1YmF1F4&t=1s This is an improved version of my Dacoma pickup truck and TLC 80. I could not finish building instructions for them because they had fatal drawbacks on their drivetrain. In low gear, bevel gears in center differential often skip and pop out by the torque of propulsion motors. To make it reliable, it was necessary to reduce the stress on center diff while handling higher torque in low gear. The gearbox works sequentially. (1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 1) 1: High - 2: Low - 3: Low with rear diff lock In low gear, center diff works like limited-slip diff. In high gear, two L motors are coupled and rotate center differential together. Front and rear axles are driven via open center diff. In low gear, only one L motor rotates center diff. Another motor is connected only to rear axle. (In other words, it just supports rear half of drivetrain.) Which means rear half of axle in center diff is (nearly) locked. That means front half of axle in center diff is locked as well. Maximum suspension travel is not as long as older Dacoma truck. But new one articulates better thanks to softer front suspension. Years ago I happened to get some rare blue parts from old sets. So I could build it in blue. With a few tweaks, it can be built in white, orange or black. Building instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-25520/Madoca1977/dacoma-4x4-redux/#comments I hope you will like it. And I will work hard not to take a long time for sharing next model.
  21. Hi everybody! Half a year ago, the Suzuki company released a new generation of their famous mini SUVs - Suzuki Jimny and Suzuki Jimni Sierra(Wide edition). I, as a caring lover of this particular model, tried to repeat the same thing in Lego. That's what came out of it Specifications: 1:10 Scale All wheel drive 1.55 DC Chequired flag all terrain A/T tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO2) Solid Axles Constant rear diff lock The modular design (body and chassis are separate elements connected by 6 points. The body and chassis, in turn, consist of smaller modules - doors, hood, axles etc) Electrics: BuWizz brick (or AAA Lego battery box/LiPo unit + IR V2 Reciever/Sbrick) – battery and receiver 2L motors - movement Servo motor – steering 2 LED lights iOS/Android smartphone/pad with BuWizz app – Remote control Life’s too short to stay stock! Therefore, in this model I use tires DC CHEQUERED FLAG All-Terrain T/A (87x26x1.55), that are an exact copy of BF Goodrich T/A KO2. This gives the model more realism and improves off-road performance compared to original tires. For the same reason, I recommend to using alternative power sources, in this case BuWizz, which significantly expand the functionality of the model, reduce its weight and increase the power of the motors. At the same time, the design of the model allows the use of original Lego batteries (AAA or LiPo unit) together with the V2 receiver of Lego Power Functions More photos and building instruction you can find on my personal blog page Video review:
  22. Hi everyone! I'm glad to present you the third version of my trial truck with a long prehistory and a slightly unusual design Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr Some history now: In the far-distant 2015 @Lucio Switch has built a titanic airfield firetruck that made a strong impression on me. The stunning set of functions, motorization, scale and appearance of this monster inspired me to build a modification. Searching for parts and construction took about a year. I wanted to not just change the color scheme or somehow improve already perfect truck - I wanted a total rework of the entire transmission, body and concept in general As a result, we got a truck with a loud name "Indominus Rex" and a claim to conquer the off-road. The 4 most powerful motors (5292) produced by Lego ever, differentials with limited slip (thanks @efferman for idea), planetary gear reduction in each of the eight wheels - all this allowed to overcome quite serious obstacles, even with weight of the model (6 kilograms) and dimensions (92x25x25 centimeters). Modification, judging by the opinions of AFOLs and the victory at the MOCs exhibition in Moscow Megabricks museum, turned out quite good. The flatbed body, a thin (3 pins) frame, a relief roof with air intakes and off-road rubber did their work - the truck moved away from the original as much as possible with the help of some solutions and design features. In the same 2016, in a New Year eve, I made another modification of the ACT truck. Indominus-2 was created specifically to participate in the winter truck trail competition in Moscow. No differentials, reduced weight (3.5 kilograms) with the same dimensions. Design was primitive, while preserving the common features of the original "front end". No serious ambition in the construction of this truck, it was initially clear that with its dimensions, it will not pass the road for off-road trucks. As a result, of course, the distance was overcome, but at the cost of one repair and loss of drive on three wheels out of eight (actually twelve, the two rear axles were with twin wheels) But a large number of positive emotions and feedback pushed me to an idea that this truck has not been exhausted yet. There were several attempts to build modifications of the same airfield truck in different versions, which ended, however, at the stage of creating the chassis (I wanted to do something fundamentally more light and durable). Later, I was distracted by building the truck with a crane from, again, @Lucio Switch This truck, being assembled completely in the original version, absorbed almost all my electrics, the technic frames and, in general, almost all the parts (17 motors, three battery packs, 13 meters of pneumohoses, 16 pneumatic cylinders and 131 technic panels). The idea of building another truck on the same scale from the remaining assortment of parts seemed simply insane. And at the beginning of 2018 I found a solution to two problems at once. I figured out how to build both an original and not too expensive in parts truck, which at the same time would inherit design and performance from its two predecessors. Why build the next four-axle monster, when the 4x4 format for trucks is still looks pretty? In addition, there was an opportunity to test my strength in terms of creating a MOC, and not modification. Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr I left only some recognizable elements from the original truck, which allowed to identify it as Indominus-3: сontours of the cabin, individual elements of the body kit, doors. The functional was done with an eye to the fact that this truck will participate in the February truck trial in Moscow (by the way, riding at -15C degrees turned out to be very "fun", even filming was not possible, everything was frozen, including phones and cameras). But, despite the "competitive" orientation, the equipment turned out to be more like the first version of Indominus: limited slip differentials (three pieces: front, rear and center), chains on wheels (homemade, from the jewelry chain), complex exterior and interior (with Duplo penguins!) Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr In additional: old pneumatic shock absorbers (very soft and long-stroke), anti-roll bar on both axles, portal gear reduction in pair to wheel planetary gear reduction. I used: 2х Buwizz v2, 4x RC buggy motor (5292), 1x Servo motor, 4x extension wire and Android app made by @imurvai to control this truck with gamepad (works very well and smooth, by the way) Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr In the end, in my opinion, this truck turned out quite bright and sturdy, and even with 4.5 kilograms weight can handle some offroad in the conditions of russian winter Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr I hope you liked this orange buddy as much as I do If someone is interested, I'll try to make a detailed review of technical features (with schematics and colorful pictures, yes ), video and some photos of the "nude" chassis. In conclusion, I want to thank @Shurik for great photos and @Limga for his endless patience and support throughout my entire AFOL path! Thank you all for attention! Update: I found a photo from the competition. One of the participants struggled to help me with a loose climb up the hill Update #2: Just filmed a little adventure in snow https://youtu.be/oVwOIyrj6wQ Update #3: Added a video with summer offroad https://youtu.be/CXFRc0i4dWg Update #4: Fun crawling video https://youtu.be/fusAL80vCZI
  23. Hey everyone, Here's my newest MOC, the Audi Quattro group B rally car. Hope you guys like it! Final by Teo's Technic, on Flickr It has -working steering with servo motor -4x4 drive with 2 x L motors and independent suspension -two speed RC gearbox -headlights -opening doors and hood. DSC06195 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06203 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr Final2 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06198 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr
  24. My own speed build video of LEGO Technic 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader. Funcionality review video will be later in august. Currently the control+ app is not available for download :D Speed-build video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgss_ZFzWEA
  25. Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41896c04#T=S&O={"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated!