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Found 160 results

  1. Presenting another trial truck - 4x4 - PF: XL, Servo, IR, LiPo - Leaf spring front suspension - Double soft shock rear suspension - Panhar rods for both axles - Opening hood - Removable body. Prepared it for the Trial contest in Moscow, but couldn't come there, then participated in the Truck Trial competition in St. Petersburg. You can watch the performance here: Time: 13:41 and 54:33.
  2. The Black Crow is the ideal adventure 4x4 for the discerning gentleman like Lester looking to travel the world in style and comfort. There is ample storage room in both the back and the roof for all life's necessities. The powerful engine will get you over all terrain and is easily accessed and maintained. A fold-out awning provides shelter from sun and rain alike while you examine the treasures of your travels or enjoy a well earned cup of tea. Adventure Awaits!
  3. I decided to build a lego car which will have features of crawler and race car at the same time. This car will feature: 1. independent suspension. 2.power of four buggy motors 3. gearbox designed by sariel http://sariel.pl/2015/04/4-speed-compact-sequential-transmission-v11/#more-3347 4.two servo motors for steering (maybe all wheel steering) 5. Designed by efferman 3d printed hubs in 8880 supercar style https://www.shapeways.com/product/PS74T8S2G/wheelholders-in-8880-supercar-style?optionId=57210105&li=user-profile 6. Designed by efferman 3d printed Female universaljoint adaptors for piece 2907 https://www.shapeways.com/product/594DUQXXV/female-universaljoint-adaptor-for-piece-2907?optionId=57073918&li=user-profile 7. 3rd party rc4wd tires https://store.rc4wd.com/Rock-Crusher-XT-19-Tires_p_691.html 8. AWD drivetrain with torsen differentials 9. And finally 3s LI-po battery and sBrick to power and control this beast! Maybe you can give me some advice about which car for bodywork should I choose? I've already done something in stud.io so you can check it out! https://www.dropbox.com/s/a356a70tgm3dwjj/epic project normal from lxf.io?dl=0
  4. Hi to all fans of Lego! Today I want to share with you my new work - Rock Rod Rock Rod - it's the crawler, on the construction of which I was inspired by the fierce custom projects from HAUK Designs. Especially, where, no matter how on the crawler to run a fresh RC DC chequered flag STT PRO rubber wheels and BuWizz. At the output was a relatively light on the portal bridges crawler. At the heart of the model is also the philosophy of placing motors on bridges, to reduce the center of gravity and minimize weight and inertia of the body. Technical characteristics of the model: Weight (together with a technic-figure) - 817 g. Number of parts - 617 pcs. Steering - Servo motor Movement - two L motors Power / Control - BuWizz Even the "sofa" trial allows us to understand that additions such as non-standard tires and BuWizz significantly expand the scope of use and possibilities of radio controlled Lego models. It remains to wait until the snow comes down, to ride Rock Rod on the rocks. But you can do this before me, by building the Rock Rod yourself by free video instruction. I plan to test the model in the spring on a severe off-road. I will be very glad to hear from you any advice or wish for the completion of both the technical component of the model and its appearance. Ahead is still half a year :)
  5. The Fiat Panda is an Italian utility car created for all needs. It's known for its simplicity but above all for its ability to do almost everything. The 4x4 version, despite the 50 hp, is capable of climbing on various types of terrain, in fact it is also used for trials (just change the wheels). I wanted to create it in a small offroad version. The design is quite similar to the real model even if with some difference like the roof. I added a front bumper with 2 PF Lights, very useful for night rides, and a winch (you can see how it works at the end of the video). 1 PF L Motor for propulsion with a 2 speed gearbox and a 4x4 transmission without differential (I added a second reinforcement gear in the rear axle). The gearbox is compact and strong enough and the winch system is connected to it. The total gear ratio is: First Gear 1:3.33; Second Gear 1:1.67. Pendular suspension for good stability on rough terrain, even if the model is not high enough to work properly :(. The rear opening hatch and the small trailer are good for transporting small loads. The old model was very squarish and very low so I had to revise it more carefully.
  6. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  7. A few days ago i got the smallest of the new JW sets for cheap,and of course bought it for the parts,the minifigures and the dinosaur.I already had other plans for this set which involved turning that weird looking oversized chunk on wheels into a better looking offroader. Thanks to the trapezoid shaped hood and the new fenders,it really looks like a Jeep Wrangler,which would fit the Jurassic Park theme quite well. I used most of the parts,a bunch of additional parts and the stickers to make it look like an official set. I really like how the rollcage turned out,i used pieces of the rigid hose,droid arms and those holders and shafts with clamp. The netshooter was removed,instead someone can stand on the truck bed and fire with the tranquilizer gun. IMG_20180630_152925 IMG_20180630_152947 IMG_20180630_153003 IMG_20180630_153019 IMG_20180630_153043 IMG_20180630_153055 IMG_20180630_153305 Well,happy dinosaur keeping,hope you like this MOC...comments are welcome.
  8. Hello. Today I want to introduce my competition truck for this year's Czech LEGO truck trial competition. Original Vehicle: My MOC is based on Ural 4x4 that was raced by a Polish team of Ostaszevski 4x4 Team for a few years. The truck participated regularly in European cross-country rallies and truck trial competitions (according to photos). I did not find any technical data of the vehicle, just photos. But you can see different evolutions of the vehicle: changing frond end from Ural 375 to newer Ural 4320, changing color of a roll cage, changing wheels and, of course, adding scars to the vehicle. An interesting feature is the roll cage, which is attached at the front by a pivot pin. This makes it possible to twist the chassis frame of the vehicle without breaking the roll cage (this can be seen on czech Praga V3S trial specs). Even more interesting is that the racing team moved the front axle ahead in compare with serial Ural truck. This improved the weight balance between front and rear axles and at the same time increased the approach angle. I chose this this vehicle as a base for two reasons: 1) I built Ural 4320 6x6 when I started participating in Czech LEGO truck trial competition four years ago. And this year I wanted to prove myself that I improved my building skill and I wanted to create a nicer model. 2) The Ural Team Ostaszevski is the most interesting competition 4x4 truck I've ever seen. Especially on desert photos it looks like Mad Max kind of truck. MOC: Scale of the model is 1:12.5 (1 stud = 10 cm). Dimensions: width 26 studs, length 57 studs, wheelbase 38 studs. Weight: 1600 g. I think all basic proportions are accurate to one stud (sometimes half). Only the front bumper is wider than it should be (required by our competition technical rules) and wheel rims have a larger diameter. But tire circumference is all right. Even the longitudinal beams of the chassis frame correspond to the original. There are two PF Large motors that drive all four wheels through the 16:16, 20:12, 20:12, 24:8 gearing. There are no differentials in the drivetrain, but the rear axle drive is able to disengage. This is controlled by a pneumatic piston, but due to the wrong design of the disconnection it does not work anymore (actually worked when it was new). The PF Medium motor is used to steer the front axle. Due to steering geometry, Ackermann's steering is achieved (the inner wheel turns more). And steering wheel is connected so it rotates while steering. Other equipment required by competition rules: manual winch, front and rear tow hooks, seat belts and attaching points for number plates. Drive ability: I tried to get the most accurate imitation of the original truck with cost of worse off-roading ability at competitions. For example: approach and departure angle could be better, the cab is heavy and those tires do not have a best offroad thread. But it is better than I expected. The axles are not sprung (the axle does not have any travel), but I use the torsionally soft chassis frame. Just like the mentioned Praga V3S truck. That was probably the most difficult for me. Design two longitudinal beams, just soft in torsion, stiff to bend and not break apart while twisting. This was done and chassis flex is quite nice. Also the wheel travel looks natural (not as a turntable on one of the axles, the rest stays stiff). I also like that the entire drivetrain is hidden in the chassis frame. Only the steering motor protrudes under the bonnet. It is compact and the chassis itself reminds a chassis of real truck. The chassis, the cab and the flat bed are independent modules as in a real truck design. The thing Porsche 42056 was promising, but did not match that. To be honest, it has some technical issues: 1) Gearwheels mounted to L motors (16tooth) wind up long grass in between them. 2) As already mentioned, disconnecting of real axle drive has stopped working. 3) In the last section of the second race, the front axle U-joint has cracked. 4) I do not believe the 24 tooth gearwheels in front wheel hubs. But they have not broken on the Ural yet. Anyway, the biggest weakness during competitions is the driver for sure :D Car control: I believed you noticed there is not a single battery box on the truck. That is correct. In our trial competition rules is drive-by-wire allowed. We know it looks lame, but there are main reasons for that: 1) Weight reduction - Batteries are part of your controller and car doesn’t have to carry them. 2) Control precision - LEGO offers only IR remote control (so far) and that is useless outside on direct sunlight. 3rd party receivers were forbidden until last season (100% pure LEGO), but sBrick is allowed since this year. Still, no one use it because it not as precise as old 9V BBox and because of weight. 3) Pneumatic control - we can use pneumatic hoses for diff locking, gear shifting or suspension adjusting. You can do that remotely as well, but it will cost you lost of additional weight and no one would do that anymore. And don’t think we tow out cars by cable. That is forbidden, of course and our official is strict about that. --- For more photos look here: https://www.zonerama.com/Link/Album/4391387 To see where it got that dirty, look at video of 2nd race: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9Gnw0XoFHU --- I use Zonerama instead of Flickr and I am not able to insert pictures.
  9. Here's my latest MOC, a C model for the 4x4 Crawler (9398) set. Features: 4x4 drive achieved by 2 hard coupled L motors, with an overall 1:1 gear ratio 1 Servo motor for steering Pendular rear suspension* Easily remove the battery box by pulling the red pushpin on either white curved panel, pulling the smokestacks out, lifting the roof, pulling the two axle/lift assemblies keeping the BB from sliding around, and pull the BB out. Openable hood LDraw, and Stud.i files available here Notes: I have assembled this physically, didn't take any pictures though. The LDraw file is wonky in spots, such as the rear from the motors, back, and how I couldn't get the back axle tilted to connect the top rods, you should be able to fgure it out though. *not sprung, couldn't fit them on nicely, this this is made to go fast, not rock climb anyways
  10. Hi everyone! I'm glad to present you the third version of my trial truck with a long prehistory and a slightly unusual design Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr Some history now: In the far-distant 2015 @Lucio Switch has built a titanic airfield firetruck that made a strong impression on me. The stunning set of functions, motorization, scale and appearance of this monster inspired me to build a modification. Searching for parts and construction took about a year. I wanted to not just change the color scheme or somehow improve already perfect truck - I wanted a total rework of the entire transmission, body and concept in general As a result, we got a truck with a loud name "Indominus Rex" and a claim to conquer the off-road. The 4 most powerful motors (5292) produced by Lego ever, differentials with limited slip (thanks @efferman for idea), planetary gear reduction in each of the eight wheels - all this allowed to overcome quite serious obstacles, even with weight of the model (6 kilograms) and dimensions (92x25x25 centimeters). Modification, judging by the opinions of AFOLs and the victory at the MOCs exhibition in Moscow Megabricks museum, turned out quite good. The flatbed body, a thin (3 pins) frame, a relief roof with air intakes and off-road rubber did their work - the truck moved away from the original as much as possible with the help of some solutions and design features. In the same 2016, in a New Year eve, I made another modification of the ACT truck. Indominus-2 was created specifically to participate in the winter truck trail competition in Moscow. No differentials, reduced weight (3.5 kilograms) with the same dimensions. Design was primitive, while preserving the common features of the original "front end". No serious ambition in the construction of this truck, it was initially clear that with its dimensions, it will not pass the road for off-road trucks. As a result, of course, the distance was overcome, but at the cost of one repair and loss of drive on three wheels out of eight (actually twelve, the two rear axles were with twin wheels) But a large number of positive emotions and feedback pushed me to an idea that this truck has not been exhausted yet. There were several attempts to build modifications of the same airfield truck in different versions, which ended, however, at the stage of creating the chassis (I wanted to do something fundamentally more light and durable). Later, I was distracted by building the truck with a crane from, again, @Lucio Switch This truck, being assembled completely in the original version, absorbed almost all my electrics, the technic frames and, in general, almost all the parts (17 motors, three battery packs, 13 meters of pneumohoses, 16 pneumatic cylinders and 131 technic panels). The idea of building another truck on the same scale from the remaining assortment of parts seemed simply insane. And at the beginning of 2018 I found a solution to two problems at once. I figured out how to build both an original and not too expensive in parts truck, which at the same time would inherit design and performance from its two predecessors. Why build the next four-axle monster, when the 4x4 format for trucks is still looks pretty? In addition, there was an opportunity to test my strength in terms of creating a MOC, and not modification. Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr I left only some recognizable elements from the original truck, which allowed to identify it as Indominus-3: сontours of the cabin, individual elements of the body kit, doors. The functional was done with an eye to the fact that this truck will participate in the February truck trial in Moscow (by the way, riding at -15C degrees turned out to be very "fun", even filming was not possible, everything was frozen, including phones and cameras). But, despite the "competitive" orientation, the equipment turned out to be more like the first version of Indominus: limited slip differentials (three pieces: front, rear and center), chains on wheels (homemade, from the jewelry chain), complex exterior and interior (with Duplo penguins!) Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr In additional: old pneumatic shock absorbers (very soft and long-stroke), anti-roll bar on both axles, portal gear reduction in pair to wheel planetary gear reduction. I used: 2х Buwizz v2, 4x RC buggy motor (5292), 1x Servo motor, 4x extension wire and Android app made by @imurvai to control this truck with gamepad (works very well and smooth, by the way) Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr In the end, in my opinion, this truck turned out quite bright and sturdy, and even with 4.5 kilograms weight can handle some offroad in the conditions of russian winter Lego Indominus Mk3 by Alexey Tikhvinsky, on Flickr I hope you liked this orange buddy as much as I do If someone is interested, I'll try to make a detailed review of technical features (with schematics and colorful pictures, yes ), video and some photos of the "nude" chassis. In conclusion, I want to thank @Shurik for great photos and @Limga for his endless patience and support throughout my entire AFOL path! Thank you all for attention! Update: I found a photo from the competition. One of the participants struggled to help me with a loose climb up the hill Update #2: Just filmed a little adventure in snow https://youtu.be/oVwOIyrj6wQ Update #3: Added a video with summer offroad https://youtu.be/CXFRc0i4dWg
  11. This is my new 1969 Dodge Charger Monster Truck. It’s a hybrid, a chimera. It’s an all-wheel drive, all-wheel steer monster. I built it in sections. It is very easy to build and assemble. I had to sacrifice passenger seat to make room for IR receivers. Quick reference of the features: - 2 XL motors for drive, one for each axle, - Tatra suspension, - Loads of suspension travel, - 2 L motors for steering, one for each axle, - Tatra steering system (via small LA) with Ackerman geometry, - Independent steering of front and rear axles, - Normal steering mode, - All wheel steering mode, - Crab steering mode - 2 L motors for winches, one for each winch, - Openable doors, - Hidden/flip-up headlights, - Working steering wheel, - Hemi V8 engine with carburetors and blower. BOSS Here you can see door opening mechanism. UNDERDOG SINISTER VICE And here is the chassis. So, which combo do you like the most?
  12. Hello everyone! It has been a while since I last posted on this forum. In November I tripped to Russia again for participating LEGO event held in Moscow. This year, my friend Rm8 gave me the opportunity to make video review of my models together at his studio. You might have seen the review of Jeep Wranglers. And this is the other model that I first had a presentation to Russian builders in the event. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Weight: 1520g -XL motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for front winch -M motor for two speed gearbox and center/rear differential lock -LEDs for front and rear lights Everything started from the issue of center differential in the drivetrain of my previous Pickup. After driving on serious off-road I found that bevel gears in center differential got damaged and often slipped. So I tried to find the way to reinforce gear meshing in 4L differential. In conclusion, I still have not succeeded. Every attempt was not strong enough for transmitting the torque of geared down (3:1) XL motor. In extreme situation floating fourth bevel gear was pushed out by the force of twisting differential housing. I was even hoping new red 4L differential could hold four bevel gears tightly in it, but it does not. So I used the second one in the picture above. (just insert 1L technic brick for holding both side of axles tighter) While attempting several ideas of transmission, I was building another 4x4 model using three differentials. Eventually it became the most advanced version of my SUV models yet being over complex and less reliable. The main feature is sequentially working gearbox and diff lock system. I used Didumos69's Compact 90 degree stepper idea for switching four modes. (0→1→2→3→0 ...) 0: high gear 1: low gear 2: low gear with center diff lock 3: low gear with center/rear diff lock You can see it working in the second half of this video filmed by Rm8. I used M motor instead of Servo motor for switching modes because there was no space for it under the driver's seat. It is necessary to stop motor rotation when stepper axle comes to the right position. Actually this model is too heavy for real off road driving. Center differential often suffered the load, and it was a little bit tricky to operate sequential mechanism precisely from a distance. So I built a lighter and simplified version only using XL and Servo motor. It has softer rear suspension, manual gearbox and center/rear limited slip differential. (Weight: 1260g) Ironically it worked better than fully equipped version even lacking diff lock system. Thanks to soft suspension it has better axle articulation. All four tires well kept contact with the ground. I put it on rocky surface just for taking pictures. Actually it could not climb over those rocks, though. I am making building instructions for both versions. I hope you will like it!
  13. This is my new UAZ 452: - It is powered by a L-Motor, which drives a 3+r gearbox. -The gearbox is connected to a 2-speed transfer case and it has 2WD/4WD selection. -Both axles have leaf spring suspension, front wheels are steered by a M-Motor. Photos: UAZ 452 by engin şen, on Flickr UAZ 452 by engin şen, on Flickr UAZ 452 by engin şen, on Flickr UAZ 452 by engin şen, on Flickr
  14. I wanted to build a small rc version of a Jeep Mighty FC for a long time, and finally managed to do so: My main goal was outdoor performance, so I've used a XL motor geared down 1:2.78 for propulsion. A servo motor was used for steering. With only 12 studs between the insides of the wheel hubs, I had to squeeze in portal axles for the front and rear. Of course we also have suspension: The belly-shot: And the video(sorry for bad resolution): The chassis can be separated from the bodywork and battery in about 10sec. Although it was only possible to build in yellow, I tried to include as much detail as possible and did my best to hide most of the interior. I hope you like it. Feel free to leave your comments and criticism!
  15. Hello! I would like to share with you my new work. GAZ "Tiger" (GAZ-233036 or SPM-2). It's russian 4x4, multipurpose, all-terrain infantry mobility vehicle manufactured by GAZ, first delivered to the Russian Army in 2006. Primarily used by the Russian Federation's armed forces. Specifications: Four-wheel drive Independent suspension Open all doors, hood and sunroof The steering wheel in the car is synchronized with the steering Row 6-cylinder engine 4 L Motors for Motion Servo motor for power steering M motor to winch drive Power and control implemented by BuWizz 1.0 Weight - 2.3 kg Length - 50 cm Width - 20 cm Height - 20 cm Description: The model is executed on a scale of 1:11. The project was started in the middle of 2016, but it can be considered completed only now. The model is based on the GAZ-233036 armored vehicle, GAZ Tiger or SPM-2 (special police machine), which can be found in the special forces of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, in particular in the OMON. In the process of construction, the main question was how to force a model that weighs more than 2 kg to go and not crawl like the Lego trial trucks, and indeed most large models weighing more than 1,500 kg. To the aid came BuWizz, the power of which was enough to allow the Tiger to move with the speed of SUVs from the Lego of medium size, while overcoming small obstacles and not adding weight (hello to the big Lego battery packs). Each axis is driven by separate pairs of L motors with a gear ratio of 2.8 through the open differentials in front and rear. For the steering is responsible servo motor, running synchronously with the steering wheel in the cabin. In the front bumper there is a winch, powered by an M motor. All remote control is via BuWizz 1.0 In the cabin, the front instrument panel is worked out, there are two seats in the front and two benches in the passenger compartment. The color scheme is printed on self-adhesive paper More photos: Now I am modifying the model in the Lego Digital Designer. Maybe someone has something to like, what would be worth changing or adding to it? In my plans to make several modifications.
  16. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  17. Hello! My latest MOC is a re-creation of unusual Jeep model. Jeep Mighty FC Concept -Weight: 2125g -2 XL motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential -M motor for winch -3 LEDs for front and rear lights -2 SBricks powered by one rechargeable battery box -Portal axles -Openable doors and tailgate -Shallow bed with fold-down sides -Detachable roof -Alternative tube doors The chassis is not realistic, but has decent offroad capability as heavy Lego model. My goal was to make a sturdy and powerful crawler having propulsion motors and gearbox on the center of its chassis. Which means the drivetrain contains two universal joints - weakest points - for transmitting the torque to front and rear live axles. To save U-joints from damaging, I adopted two stage reductions after differential on both axles. The gearbox is similar one to my previous FJ40 Crawler. I doubled the pair of 8T/24T gear for higher durability. High gear is three times faster than low gear. You may wonder why rear ball joint is connected lower than front. That is for avoiding body roll caused by high torque of hard-coupled XL motors. Seeing from the gearbox, the rear output rotates in opposite direction to the front one. So the front and rear axle are equally forced to rotate in opposite direction to each other. Thus the center chassis with heavy body does not easily roll left or right even when climbing steep incline. (...at least on paper. I admit the complete body is a little bit too heavy to prove the theory above.) Steering angle is good, but turning radius is not so good. Because of the lack of center differential, it cannot handle different rotating speed of front and rear axle in tight turning. On slippy surface, like in the video, it can be steered without any problem. Rear differential can be locked instantaneously. The role of 8T gear on top of red changeover part is to make a tiny gap between 16T clutch gear and driving ring in locked position. Thanks to the gap, 16T gear is not pushed against outer structure. That helps to decreasing the friction. Front winch is powered by M motor geared 9:1. I used two pairs of 8T/24T gear instead of worm gear. It is smoother and surprisingly powerful. The hook can be manually pulled out by switching the lever under right seat. The body looks a bit squarish comparing to the real Mighty FC. Maybe I could replicate trapezoidal shape of its cabin. But I thought angled pillars and roll cage would be wobbly. So I decided to build simple yet sturdy. Instead of realistic appearance, I managed to realize easily detachable roof and doors. Although the whole MOC is built for using Unimog tires, Claas tires also fit well. But the maximum articulation of axles would be smaller because bigger tires possibly touch the chassis and fenders. It would be necessary to limit suspension travel or slightly modify the chassis. I hope you will like it! I will make building instruction. But I have to finish the instruction of Pickup first.
  18. This was supposed to be a Unimog 401 but things turned out a little different. some specs: Drive: XL motor geared 1:1 Steering: servo motor Openable doors etc It also has rear pendular suspension: And of course a belly-shot: I will make a video as soon as possible to prove its off-road performance. I hope you like it!
  19. Tundra buggy – an off-road vehicle for extreme arctic adventures - 4x4 - XL, Servo, IR, LiPo - Leaf spring suspension - Opening doors - Removable body. The chassis is modified version of my Trial Pickup Truck one.
  20. Hello All! It is winter time, so I am bit more busy on Legoing. After seeing, that @Didumos69 started his 4x4 buggy project, I looked into a bit deeper the Ultra 4 racing, and the rigs been driven in this extreme events. Finally the video, what I linked to his topic, triggered the work on another MOC: the Ultra 4 buggy. Here is another video to see the interesting bits of independent suspension system on this beast: Still, I might end up with IFS (independent front suspension) and solid axle with torque bar for the rear, but the body is heavily inspired by the Lasernut buggy. Parameters: 2x L motors 1x servo motor AAA battery box - in order to be replace ability with BuWizz in case IR control Let's look at into the progress a bit, maybe it is interesting to read. I started on 28. november with LDD model. To set the proportions, and the body ideas, I usually place the essential parts free in space first. Check the real inspiration thing and the very first sketch: After that I added the electronic parts, to check the necessary minimum space. (Unfortunately Stud.io has corrupt models, so some cover parts of the motors are just not present.) At this stage, I built the front axle, to see how can I integrate the steering. The answer is: massive fail. So back to drawing table, I deleted the 5x7 frame, and started to figure out, how to connect the needed fixation points for swingarms, servo. Due to this, the model gets more complex than I thought, but buildability is always first! I recommend to check meanwhile IRL building too, or at least stop by and thinking about how to add the related parts. I was hopeing for a simple MOC, but I ended up already a pretty complex assembly, so I made each step with double check. Later on, I will try to add groups in LDD to represent the buildability order too. So far the front module with steering and IFS is ready, the middle module is almost done, I am wondering about interchangable solid axle or independent solution for the rear - not sure yet. Also the color is to be decided yet, as the springs type as well (soft or hard). I think if soft ones will be OK, than I go for white body, as it presents the "rollcage" better. In case the yellow hard shock absorbers will be needed, of course the only choice is: full MEAN black body. This picture shows the advantage of the white body, and also a comparison for tyre types: 3740 on the left, 45982 on the right, both on 56908 wheels. So far 407 parts, and I guess it is about 70-75% ready. I need to figure out how to fix the roof, and create a solid, but easily disconnectable rear module. Necessary parts are ordered, so real build pics might come in couple weeks first. And how is the road presence? I guess it will be pretty much like a punch in the face. p.s.: Yet another WIP, I hope for long winter nights, to finish at least some of my unfinished projects...
  21. Can you give me some examples of lego techic strong and compact 4x4 independent suspension.
  22. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  23. Hi, lovers of Lego! Today I want to show you my new 4x4 MOC - Nissan Datsun '1996 in D21 body. Specifications of MOC Model Lego Technic Nissan Datsun built on all-wheel drive platform, has a beam axle with unlocked differentials front and rear, steering - rack and pinion. The body and chassis are separate elements and are fastened to each other by 4 points. Opened doors, hood and door body. Electrics: LiPo unit XL motor on movement Servo motor - steering IrV2 - Remote control Just want to say that this story of this model, I did not finish and I want to continue it in the back of double cab body. It all began with the construction of low general pickup, its theme, you can see here on EB. By the summer I want to build a second pick-up and take over the full video on the outdoor. I do not really want to ride on the dirty snow right now.
  24. Even before the release of the Lego 42069 set, I’ve always wanted to make a 4x4 vehicle with triangular tracks. Seeing that the season is perfect for vehicles like these (the snow!), I decided it’s finally time I make my dream come true. The build started out with, obviously, making the 4 triangular tracks. Drive is transferred to the tracks via a large sprocket, and two small sprockets form the triangular shape. There are also two small wheels at the bottom that guide the tracks and help reduce slack. The track modules are attached to their axles with a small turntable, which allows it tilt back and forth and also keeps it well attached to prevent it from falling off. The axles are attached to the chassis with 4 suspension arms, 3 links, and 2 6.5L shock absorbers. The entire vehicle is driven by 2 L motors, with 1 per axle. A servo motor at the center of the chassis controls steering, with the front output controlling the front axle and the rear output controlling the rear. The drive/steering setup is similar to that of the 9398. Since there are no mechanical connections between the two driven axles, I added an extra M motor just to drive the V6 piston engine. The fake engine is chain-driven and can be seen by opening the hood, which can be locked in place. The model also includes Lego LEDs that light up the front lights. However, due to the bright sunlight when I filmed it, I could not demonstrate this feature. As for the performance, the model could drive on snow pretty well. The use of tracks over wheels was advantageous in that it has better weight distribution, which reduces stress on the motor. However, since tracks are a lot less grippier than wheels, even a small obstacle means that the tracks will slip, so I had to omit differentials in the drivetrain. The lack of differentials meant that one of the tracks on each axle will be stressed when making a turn, which is why one of the tracks can be seen driving slightly tilted when making a turn. Using rubber inserts, however, may have helped with the tracks slipping, but unfortunately I do not have any at this point. The tracks also feature stoppers on the back that limit their maximum tilt, as the tracks would often tilt too far in its initial tests, especially when overcoming an obstacle.The entire model is powered by a rechargeable battery, which, despite delivering less voltage than the AA battery box, gave the model plenty of power. Overall, I am very satisfied with the result. The model was a success not only in performance but also in aesthetics. In fact, I think this is my best-looking pickup truck model so far. Video: Photos:
  25. Hello evry1, I'm attemting to build my first MOC. What I'm aiming for: - something like a retro / vintage / classic car, two seater cabrio. Like the Catherham Seven or what this guy made - 4x4, motorized with independent suspension; - the gear shifter will manually shift between neutral (only the fake engine will work), 2x4, 4x4 and 4x2 (yeah, i'm going to need some help with this one) - in the future I intend to attach a go pro to an arm. the arm must turn the camera 360 and lower or raise the depression angles. Currently I have the following sets: - 2 x 8838 Shock Bike; these two sets will supply the wheels, suspension and chain; - 1 x 42050 Drag Racer; i will use the fake V8 engine from this set; - 1 x RC Tracked Racer Set 42065 - from this one i will use the two M motors (stearing + drive), battery box, IR receiver and remote; - 1 x Arctic Truck Set 42038 - this set has a switch with gears which i want to use to switch manually between N, 2x4, 4x4, 4x2. - 1x Fire Truck Set 8289 - 9392 Quad Bike Set - 3 differentials, universal joints (cardan), verious gears and miscellaneous parts. This being my first MOC, I have some questions: 1. are the two M motors enough or do I need to get an XL engine for te drive. I expect the set to be large and I dont know if one M engine will be enough to power the fake engine along with the 4x4 drive train? 2. how do i make the manual switch between N and traction settings? Theser are 4 options, the switch I have only has three settings. 3. the transmision will be: M motor > central differential and the fake engine (the motor will turn the fake engine at all times) > from the central diff to the front and rear differentials > wheels. Is this ok? Thank you! Bwt, do I need to gear down the motor?