gyenesvi

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About gyenesvi

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    Technic MOCs, off-roaders, construction machines, remote controlled vehicles.

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  1. gyenesvi

    Effe's MOC Corner

    What is anti-ackermann about it? It seems simply parallel to me. BTW, are those the same tires that the Ford Mustang has?
  2. I'd say the Zetros is really good to get the 3 L motors, heavy duty CV joints, differentials and planetary wheel hubs and offroad wheels. You also get some suspension parts and gears and axles, though it's not a great parts pack for these. On the other hand, the Defender is a great parts pack for suspension parts (different types of joints and wheel hubs and differentials), gears and axles, but it does not have any electronics. The two together should give you all you need. Alternatively, you could calculate the cost of getting a Defender and then buying the electronics separately, but you should also consider getting the heavy duty components (planetary hubs, CV joints, differentials), as those are much better for RC offroading. One more alternative that I'd consider is a Defender + 42099 Extreme off-roader. With those two you get most of the goodies, but instead of 3 L motors, instead you get 1L + 2 XL motors, which is also good for offroading (plus you get larger wheels as well). Then if you really need that, you could buy 2 more L motors separately. Here you can check what offroaders I managed to build from these 3 sets, may be useful as reference or inspiration: https://rebrickable.com/users/gyenesvi/mocs/
  3. That makes sense too actually. I often see that in official sets, using a different pin for example than would normally, to make it easier to attach.
  4. Exactly, that was my guess about the 7L axle too. About the 4L axle that sticks out on the dashboard, could it be that it’s required for the alt build? Don’t forget that these sets had B models too :) And sometimes they needed to hide some parts in the A model to make it easier for the B model!
  5. gyenesvi

    centripetal racer

    That's really cool, I never thought that those small motors are so powerful. I just checked some reviews of it and indeed. Amazing how small motorized cars they have on their website, even steered one! If only such things were produced for technic as well..
  6. This only looks so on the renders where I had to angle it as if it was in max position to let the springs fit in (it would have looked awkward otherwise). In reality the spring has a bit of preload because of the model's weight, and that makes the angle lower. I have actually tested this, and there was no problem for the joints, they were running smooth. But you are right that care must be taken with this as a too high angle could become a problem for the joints. Anyway, thanks, glad you like it! BTW, it's only 1.2 kgs. I think the Zetros is over 2 kgs.
  7. Thanks guys, glad you like it! Do you mean as an alternate build, or would you like something like that as an official set? Glad you pointed this out, I forgot to mention that bit. So originally, the shock absorber was fixed to the lower control arm with a 2x4 L beam, which would be solid. However, the rear of the model was sitting a bit too high, so I tried a couple of geometries, to get the right position (and softness). I wanted it lower, but too low would not work either, as then the driveshaft could touch the 24T gears of the gearbox motor when pushed down or articulated. So I was playing around with the geometry and tried this just to see where it could be ideal and this was a good middle ground between higher and lower. I also thought it's a bit loose, but I realized that it's solid agains pushing down because the shock absorber is firmly stopped by the control arm under it, and it actually increases the articulation! In a sense, it works like the official Wrangler's rear articulation, that the spring is fixed on a lever on the top end such that it can follow the articulation (although in that setup it's necessary to make it work at all), except this one has the low end loose. I thought it's an interesting concept to try, so in the end I kept it to see how it works, and it seems fine. Sure that the spring is not pushing the wheel down to the ground at max articulation, so the ground contact is not so strong in that case, but I guess it's still better than lifting the wheel.
  8. Hi All, I am here again with yet another Zetros alternate and yet another buggy; this time it's an Ultra 4. The story behind this is the following. I have been tinkering with the idea of a small and fast buggy from the Zetros since the beginning, but couldn't come up with the right form factor and technical details. Originally I was thinking of something RWD by gearing up the motors, and independent suspension on all wheels, but it would have been only possible with quite wide (23 studs) wheelbase due to the lack of enough CV joints of the shorter type, some of the new 2 studs longer ones would have had to be used like in @Didumos69's Hot Trot and I thought it would have been too wide for the wheel size and proportions (I wanted something short, but actually it does not look too wide on the Hot Trot). Also I could not figure out an interesting gearbox and motor layout, as my initial idea was to connect the drive directly to the rear axle without any complicating factor to minimize friction. So I put the project aside for a while. Apart from this, I have also been lamenting lately how nice it would be to build an actually useful RC gearbox :) I mean something that has a visibly different speed ratio, something like 3:1 not the simple 1.666:1. As we all know, that's not easily (simply) possible as there's no 24T clutch gear, but @Zerobricks noted in another thread that the old differential could also be used in a gearbox, as it has clutch on both sides (thanks for that). So I thought I'd try that idea to see if it works reliably, and since the Zetros has one of that differential (and one 8T gear), I started to think about it as an alternate build. The gearbox itself is simple to build, only it takes quite some space, but at least can be sandwitched between two motors. The high gear ended up being 4x faster than the Zetros. So at this point I started to think about the form factor. Recently I have been learning about Ultra 4 buggies, that they are designed for both high speed off-roading in the desert and rock crawling at the same time (as the King of Hammers races contain both types of terrain). So I thought this could be a nice match to the gearbox concept; fast and powerful at the same time (well, fast, given the parts of the set (planetary hubs), nothing like BuWizz fast). Another advantage of the Ultra 4 concept, is that it typically uses independent front but live axle rear suspension, for which there are enough short joints and links to be achieved with 19 wide wheel base (just okay for the wheel size). Furthermore, an Ultra 4 should be AWD, which eliminates a problem with the planetary hubs if used in RWD vehicles; if the front hubs are not driven, the wheels back-drive the planetary gears (and the further drivetrain if any), and that creates excess friction; my Jeep Wrangler alternate had noticeable friction resulting from this back-drive in RWD mode. So I settled with the Ultra 4 concept. Making the independent front suspension did mean some challenge here. First there is only 1 steering link in the set, so those had to be built as well in a tight space. Second, I did not want to loose much ground clearance, I wanted to build it in a way that only a few really necessary parts go below the level of the differential. Luckily it was possible due to connecting flip-flop beams with a frame that creates very strong basis for mounting the A-arms. Even the steering motor could be nicely placed on top of the front axle. And that leads to the bigger difficulty: placement of the motors and the hub. With the steering motor on the front axle, and the drive motors on the floor, only the gearbox motor and the hub remained to be placed. I have elaborated on this in another thread: if you want access to the batteries, there aren't many options for placing the huge hub even in a medium sized model; either on the bottom in the middle (that would block the drivetrain), or in the trunk (if the model is large enough) or the last resort is using it as a B column (or cab wall in case of trucks). I resorted to this last option again with no other real choice. Luckily, due to the length and triangulated nature of the links of the rear suspension, they could easily go around the hub. But that made the gearbox motor placement really hard, as it also needed to be routed to the gearbox somehow with the appropriate gearing ratio and a safety clutch included. In my previous alternates I used a 1:3 gearing from the gearbox motor which was just enough to result in a 180 degree turn. But this time I could not as I used the only 8T gear of the set in the gearbox itself. So I had to make some more complicated gearings, and I also had to go around the hub somehow as there was no way to place the gearbox motor close to the gearbox, only somewhere in the rear part, on the other side of the hub. I fiddled with quite a few candidate solutions, until I realized that if I push the drive motors to the front as much as possible, the gearbox motor just has enough room under the hub, and can be mounted on the hub itself, with its axle coming out towards the rear. So I only had to route it back to the middle of the chassis somehow, and could just make some space for that under the hub without pushing the roof too high. The final chassis looks like this, it's a pretty compact and dense build and I am quite satisfied with it in the end. Here is an x-ray view of the drivetrain and the gearbox itself: And the same with the motors included: Somehow magically, I even had enough space left in the cab to put two larger seats (the seats in the set were too small) that avoid touching the gears, but their mounting was more difficult than building them with the limited parts. They look nice I think, and they rely on a few bars instead of axles due to the connection angles. I intentionally put a bunch of stop axles in them to make them look like they're bolted on the side :) For the exterior, I wanted something light-weight this time, and the flat panels of the set were not useful anyway for a buggy shape. So I went for a tubular design, with only side panels. I was able to use the seats as fenders in the front, and I found that the flip-flop beams create a nice rough look on the top and around the edges. Shaping the front to make it look something like a buggy also had me fiddle around quite a bit, but I think the result is okay, at least the lights make it look nicer. On the rear, I wanted to add some details, but I had to build it in a way that makes it easy to access the batteries (the frame and rear suspension is not in the way!). So I made it such that the exhaust looking decoration can be removed easily. To remove the batteries, the large gears of the gearbox motor need to be taken out as well, so that also had to be built such that it is easy to remove them and put them back (but they don't fall off easily). Here are some images of the final model: As for the suspension, it articulates pretty well, it can bridge a 9 stud high obstacle without all the other wheels leaving the ground: Check out the video to see how it performs in different conditions and let me know how you like it! Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Cheers, Viktor
  9. Cool model, and I appreciate the writeup too! Sometimes people only see the looks of an alternate model and don't understand what is the true achievement behind it because they don't see the part limitations of the set. But I am glad to hear that we share the same challenges. The set was a 'meh' for me too for the same reasons, but I really like what you could build out of it. I like the low profile, the steering solution and the illumination of the engine commands more power than the original. I like the photos as well, really clean and crisp shot from very good angles. You must have spent quite some time with that as well!
  10. I've been looking for these as well but no luck. Hoping that too, but not sure it would eventually happen, though seems logical. The description of the small motor says something like "to be used with the Small Technic hub (Spike Prime) and the Large Technic hub (Mindstorms)". But does not mention the Medium Technic hub that is used in all technic sets. Could this be because the voltage of the Spike and Mindstorms hubs is 7.4V, while the Technic hub is 9V, which could be too much for the small motor? At least enough so that TLG would not use the medium hub to drive it in an official set. I'm also wondering if it's a good idea to drive this small motor from a Buwizz (though maybe power curves can take care of that).. Anyway, maybe it's a good idea to buy some in this azure color if it becomes available.
  11. I have similar experiences since the last software update. The steering sometimes starts to move slowly and gets to the ends only after several adjustments, but after a while it kind of warms up and gets okay. And it does make noises for ever, like it keeps adjusting itself (and drains the battery as well). What I do is I turn off the screen on the phone when I am not controlling it, then it stops making the noises and the battery lasts longer as well (both the phone and the hub).
  12. They could have made the screws kind of optional on top of the current lock mechanism but that’s not what it seems like on the images unfortunately. Being even more cynical, I’d even speculate that Mercedes asked them to fix the doors and the hood because it was projecting a bad image of the truck. That could be why they did not bother with the rear axle, because it’s not visible. But hopefully the amount of negative feedback and possibly low sales also helped, and I guess people complained more about the doors than the rear axle. That’s what I am thinking too, both of my alternates are a bit like the Volvo, no room to access the lower screws. Hope it can also be secured with 2 screws only.. And I hope this will be a pain for them in the future and finally they will be forced to make a step in the rechargeable direction. Would be great to see that, but even then that alone would not simplify builds, as they’d still have to be prepared for regular batteries (accessible). And it’d require a bigger change of the hub, as the current one does not have a charging port. But I have the feeling there are other problems too, namely the shape is not good for housing (readily available) LiPo cells. Someone tried to make a home made insert, and 3x 3.6V LiPo cells didn’t fit in, only 2x, for which it is oversized, and can only provide 7.2V. I don’t know though if these LiPo cells come in various sizes or shapes as well that could be a better fit for the shape.
  13. True, but the function selector is not RC there, or is it? Theoretically yes, but it's not that simple in practise. For one, a gearbox with more than 4 functions would be quite large. Second, switching functions in the Cat takes 4 seconds, because the switch motor has to do some wiggling motion to first get rid of the tension that can build up in the drivetrain and block the clutch piece. That's a noticeable delay for playability, and I expect that would get even worse if the gearbox was more complex.
  14. That's what the Volvo hauler and the Cat dozer does, isn't it?
  15. With a single-hub 4 motor setup there are only a few possible motor configs to be used: - 1 motor for switching 4 functions, one for driving functions, and only two remain for drive/steer. That means tracked vehicles with one motor per track, or one motor for drive and one for steering. But wouldn't one motor be a bit weak to drive a larger flagship model? It was barely enough for the Volvo hauler. - Another setup that hasn't been used yet is two simultaneous gearboxes on two drive motors that could power 4-6 functions besides the drive. Add one separate motor for steering and one for switching the two gearboxes simultaneously. This could require a lot of space for the gearbox (if it's doable at all), and the controls would also become complicated, as they could be used simultaneously in pairs only. To get out of these limitations, I'd love to see the 6-port hub from Mindstorms introduced into Technic. Though wouldn't be surprised if it never happened because of the rechargeable battery in it. On a different note, I'd also love to see mid-scale RC models with 2 functions (drive/steer) and the 2-port hub from Spike Essential introduced (though same problem as with the 6-port variant), along with the small angular motor used as servo. Or a model that uses that small motor for an RC gearbox as well (in a 4-port hub, 2-drive, 1 steer, 1 gearbox motor config using two small angular motors for steering/gearbox).