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Found 51 results

  1. Ladies end Gentleman, I (miss)use a freedom to present you my version Unimog U423 in 1:17.5 scale to fit future models that I plan to built. (At the end I have decided to make models in 1:15 scale) Since introduction of new Unimog Implement carrier, I was very impressed with possibility to make my own LEGO Unimog Implement carrier that would fit my other models in proper scale. At that moment all my models were something in between 1:16 or 1:17 Scale and like @Bricksonwheels nicely said once truth is always somewhere in between. Then rumors about new tractor tire started to fill the comments here on Eurobricks abnd because most of my mocs are tractors some things got upside up. First question was - what can I do and make decision for future models and which scale to use...After a while i remembered my good friend Ingmar ( @2LegoOrNot2Lego... ) and his U.S. trucks since LEGO produces 62.4 x 20 Truck tires in some respected range of years so far, and set 42043 (one of my favorite) is still assembled. So I take a look around what was not so difficult, since I drive some 100 miles every day because of my daily job and started documenting trucks and tires on them. After seeing that some tire dimensions are always repeating I've decided to look at on-line brochure and ask tire sellers to see which is the most common tire dimension. The result (currently) for European built trucks was tire with approximately 1100 mm overall diameter ( mostly 315/80R22.5) and for U.S trucks this is 43.2" (which is also approximately 1100 mm for 11R24.5 tire). So when you want to calculate you would end up with following scale 17.5 (1100 / 62.4). So every truck can be represented with that tire which has very good steering capabilities and grip level is (for me) satisfying. Finally I can make Unimog that has all characteristic features for this vehicle; portal axles, all wheel drive with central on image ...and then the shock - I could not integrate hub reduction based on gear 16 tooth and gear 8 tooth partially inside wheel... well back to the drawing board and I felt like Wile E. Coyote After several month of brainstorming I've decided to buy this wheel (which is actually quite expensive) and what a pleasant surprise Portal axle hub fits nicely inside this wheel (wheel from set 5571). The only problem was that 68.8 X 24 tires are to soft for planned weight on Unimog, so I have to think about something in the future, but major problem was solved and development of Unimog for living room can start. My goal was to make something like this versions with some 175 mm wide mudguards which gives about 18 studs overall width for model. Currently you can see front axle which should probably be redesigned to make some 2-3 studs "gap" between tires and mudguard and a Wheel that will be used for Unimog. At the moment I did not decide to make short or long version (long version has enough space to use central differential). Model dimensions: - length 40 studs - wheelbase (probably) 26 studs - height 23 studs - width 18 studs Model should have this features: - all wheel drive - fully independent axles with 4 links suspension - portal hubs - front wheel steering - in - line 4 cylinder fake engine - cab tilting - hood opening - door opening - motorized front and rear pto - preparation for additional attachment or platform... (motorized) Current images are here (but due to free time I doubt that I'll be able to make a video) Please make your suggestions, comments, criticism and admins do not hesitate and correct or warn me for everything that is not correct with Eurobrics rules. (After few years of building this models, I have decided to make all models in compromise scale 1:15, of course if something new in term of tires does not come up from LEGO...)
  2. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] Unimog U400

    This MOC has been sitting on my desk for a while as I finished instructions. This U400 is a modification of my U500 from a couple of months ago. I think I like this one better. Features: Steering Four wheel drive Suspension Front and rear PTO Front and rear pneumatic takeoff Front and rear attachment points Three way tipper bed Tipping cab Instructions are available at I hope you enjoy!
  3. Finished 01.01.2021 A couple of years ago I started a modular Unimog project with the hopes of having a build that would be flexible enough to support a number of different versions and options. It certainly was. However, the Unimog 437 project was intended to provide a U500 cab option, but for a couple of reasons (namely those tires), it was not a great fit for the project. So in the back of my mind I figured I would do a proper U500 version at some point. The 437 was pretty popular, and it fits within my current design language; mid-sized, manual, truck/car, feature packed. Then when I saw the first reviews of the 76139 Batmobile set, and saw the new 68.7mm tires, and I knew it was time to resurrect the project. I would keep the scale at 1:17.6 as I did with the 437, and those tires would equate roughly to a 445//65/R22.5. Off to the races! I am partial to the 1st generation (2000-2013) U500, plus @I_Igor did a great 423 series already (Eurobricks). Also, I like the 500 more than the 300 or 400. The 300 looks tiny, and the 500 SWB gives me two extra studs on the wheelbase (24st) over the 400 (22st). I guess if I have enough space I'll switch to a 400, but I (generally) never need less space. I pulled a PDF for the scaling, and I started to set my build parameters. I build my MOCs by making a first draft with all the constraints: wheelbase, length, height, width, and general bodywork ideas. I try to keep the colors correct, but if the part is not in front of me, I move on to replace later. Then I start working in features, and rebuild as needed. The first draft came together pretty quickly. While I managed to buy the first tires available on Bricklink, I was not willing to wait for their arrival before I started building. At this point, I determined the features of the truck: Front and Rear Live Axle Suspension (sans portal axles) (With dual leading/trailing links and Panhard rods) Front Steering Fake Motor Tipper Bed Tipping Cab Front PTO Rear PTO Rear Bodywork PTO Front Mounting Plate Modular Rear Bed Attachment Points Realistic Bodywork The tires arrived in time for the second night of building, and they look perfect. By now, all the functions were in place. Loosely. Below you can see the general Front Mounting Plate, and the front PTO. Currently in front of the bed is a Gear that will power features on a mounted body (al la TC9 Entry) Below you can see the rear bed system. I have found this three way tipper option to work great on my 437 and the MAN TGS truck. The control input is currently on the left side, but it will need to move. The orientation of the lift is backwards, which does not allow for good tilting leverage. Turning the mechanism around will need to move the input to the rear. This compounds the issue with the rear PTO. It is currently in place just above the hitch, but will need to move when the tipper input is placed in the rear. Few U500s have a rear PTO, so I'll have to decide if this is a feature I want to retain. More to follow... Until the next post, hope you enjoy the next Thirdwigg Motors project.
  4. Hello all, With the possible release of lego technic mercedes Zetros, I decided to rebuild my Technic unimog U400 into an unimog U4023. I could do this thanks to the recently aquired Claas Tractor Tyres and the abundant parts of the Liebherr - I find the Liebherr a fantastic set for parts - I modified the cab and I will integrate 2 control+ L motors and 1 XL control+ motor for drive. First I started with the cab, the chassis I'll do next The cab is build on the same base of the U400 cab The cab is not 100% true to the original, lack of various grilles, the front wheel arches are not integrated in the cabin, the air intake etc, but I find it a great start if i can say so myself. The cab features lockable doors Here is a foto of the cab on the original U400 unimog chassis with Claas Tyres. So the next project is to rebuild the chassis with the control+ motors and I also plan to rebuild the front bumper to match the U4023 bumper. Hope you liked it so far
  5. I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
  6. you know that the lego tires are often too wide for their diameter or the pattern is only street legal and nothing for real offroad driving. now i have found some RC crawler tires which fits nearly perfect to the 8110 unimog rims. the tires came from the german manufacturer ansmann and have the number 211000224 the diameter is 108mm and the width is 40mm or 4,25"x1,45"- 1,9" they are ballon tires with a very soft rubber compound and with a foam inside here some pics if you know some other compatible third part tires, please tell it us.
  7. MajklSpajkl

    [MOC] Unimog U400

    Hello everyone! I can't believe it's been 18 months since my last MOC actually finished. Well, here is the latest to join the party: Unimog U400... and no, it isn't a MOD of 8110, that one is two times bigger ? Sadly, I don't have the 8110 to shoot them side by side, but I will try to borrow it so that the "daddy&son" bonding moment can be documented Maybe I'll be good enough to even finish the video until New Year... but then again, probably not so soon, not to mention the instructions...? Unfortunately, I move in a much slower time dimension ? Features: TRUCK: • Should be around 1:16ish, scale, tires as a starting point, • Buwizz powered, • XL for drive + fake 4in line engine with fan, • servo for steering with working steering wheel, • M motor for front and rear PTO, • L motor for compressor, pneumatic attachment front and rear, • M motor for bed (activated with PF switch), on the same buwizz output as the compressor, bed can be raised in all three directions, • cabin tilt (manually, a bit poor - two orange tiles below direction light must be removed), • detailed cabin with opening doors, • live portal axles, front with “floating” differencial • 3 differentials • trailer hitch with additional PTO, CRANE • Crane outriggers and rotation over a PTO, • 3 manual pneumatic valves for operating the crane, WINCH • manual clutch to cut off the PTO, • automatic brake against unwinding, PLOUGH • pneumatic valves for raising and switching sider, GRITTER • PTO powered double auger (two salt compartments) + rotating dispenser, • manually operated stands WINTER IS COMING! I hope you like it. Please be patient about the video...I will prepare it as soon as possible. Best regards, Miha P.S.: Some more photos of the axles and the under side can be found here.
  8. Hi folks, yes, I did it again. And no it ISN'T a Unimog :) But hey, it's trailer for it ;) Since all my models are in the same scale (nearly 1/12.5) the trailer has to be too... The model is a four axle lowbed...Overall length is 1100mm the bed is 115 studs long and 25 studs wide. Part count round about 2.500 parts. I got major help with the base and rear ramps by efferman - thanks again :) Enough words - pictures: LDD version: WIP pictures: And now the final model: Video will follow when the temperatures are lower... Have fun watching... Pat
  9. Pan Dong presents. New mini truck, they are based on Unimog trucks. 4 wheel steering, this function is the focus of the building. Short wheelbase, portal axles, lightweight body. Two chassis models, like a RC car, one has server motor for steering, the other linear actuator and M motor . But , Both have the problem of turning to the imaginary position. L motor x2 for drive. I hope you'll like it.thankyou for watching. 樂高科技迷你卡車,Unimog 406/427,董攀設計,謝謝觀看! 這次拼裝的重點,在相對較短的軸距,實現四輪轉向,然後輕量化車身結構,模擬RC車的懸架扭動姿態。有兩種底盤模式,一個採用伺服馬達轉向,另一個是小推桿加M馬達。兩個L馬達驅動,RC輪胎。四輪轉向真是靈活很多,攀爬時候的優勢明顯,不過因為前後各採用兩組萬向節傳動,導致有明顯的虛位問題。伺服馬達轉向,效率直接,但是轉向有類似軸效應現象,車頭會左右擺動。小推桿加M馬達的組合,姿態很棒,不過向上攀爬時後橋壓力大,還是建議採用不轉向的後橋,會更加結實可靠。 Unimog 427 Upgrade Version Unimog 406
  10. In long time built something. Not for real, this is digital build. Something like Unimog 13xx firefighting truck. Frond doors should be openable, maybe also front hood. Rear compartment also is accessible. hopefully right forum section.
  11. Hello people, as i have seen some topics made by some members were they share their creations, modifications and ideas, i thought it was a good idea to start my own topic about that, this way i can avoid filling other topics with too many information by saving all that information here and just posting small texts in those other topics. To start, i would like to share some creations which i worked on: Model Team Nissan Frontier. This is one of my oldest models, i made it even before i knew about Eurobricks, and i would like to share it with you because you might like it or modified it: This model features front independent suspension, rear leaf spring suspension using 5.5 axles, HOG steering, working doors, bonnet and tailgate, 5 seats and a towing hitch; its very possible that some parts are with wrong colors or there could be outdated building techniques, but i think that is not too bad for one of my first LDD models (i am no sure, but if i have enough time and inspiration i could make it in real Technic parts), The LXF: Frontier.lxf. Model Team Paramount Group Marauder MRAP. Again, one of my oldest models, it is made at a pretty small scale but it could still be considered as "model team" (i think), it has pendular suspension in both axles which are damped by cross-axles which act as leaf springs, it has HOG steering, working winch and doors, a spare tire and 2 turrets that can be mounted on the roof: The LXF: Group Marauder.lxf Technic Unimog U500 Long Chassis (I have called it UNI-MOC) You might have seen it in the latest posts at 8110´s Mods topic ( ), it is a 64 studs long and 24 studs wide model which i started to make because the modifications in the 8110 got to a too high level and i wasn´t satisfied with the whole model, i created this new model to hold all of my wanted functions and details, this model has some designs from other builders: Madoca´s Tatra 2-speeds gearbox (slightly modified to fit in this new chassis), Efferman´s planetary rims, a modified version of Didumos knob gear driven axle and a 3-side dumping system and dropping sides inspired by Kumbbl´s modifications, it was also made by some help and inspiration by Pat-Ard: This Unimog has 4 M-Motors, 2 L-Motors, 2 XL-Motors, 3 IR RC Receivers, 2 AAA Battery Boxes and 3 PF Switches (brick-built with ugly colors), why so many motors? well, as you might know, the 8110 had only one M-Motor inside it, which was meant to drive the 3 main functions of the set (front PTO, rear PTO and the pneumatic pump) the problem was that the functions couldn't be used simultaneously, you couldn't power front and rear PTO´s at the same time or with the pneumatic pump and because this system uses a gearbox and axles to engage and transmit the power to the different parts, this results in a lot of friction and power losing (other of the reasons of why i started this MOC), other thing that bother me about the 8110 was the proportions of it, it was very tall with lifted wide axles, but very thin cab and bed which made it look silly, the chassis had no space for all the functions that i wanted, i couldn't place enough motors or functions on it, and the axles were another problem, the steering pivot and angle was a disappointing, the tires couldn't steer too much with the half pins, and if you removed them, the mudguards and the surrounding elements needed to be placed far away from the tires to avoid them from colliding, these are few of the reasons of why i started to make my own version of this UGN class of Unimog (which are U300, U400 and U500). Some of the good features of this model are: Improved steering pivot (2 studs closer to the wheels compared to standard portal hubs) Wheels and portal hubs can handle more torque without jamming parts The axles are more compact (less tall), so the chassis can move even lower for a more realistic performance Front steering by L-Motor Rear steering (By M-Motor) with the same axle design as the front one Anti-roll bars in both axles, which help a lot to handle with weight and give a lot of stability, and they can be easily removed for serious offroading Remotely shifted 2-speeds gearbox by M-Motor Directly driven pneumatic pump (L-Motor) and PTO´s (M-Motors) for less power losing 3-side tipping 37 studs long 23 studs wide dump bed with dropping sides using a V2 large pneumatic cylinder Drive by 2 XL-Motors So, these are some of my models, i hope you like them, and i hope to upload more of them, i will try to do my best with all them, let me know what you think about this topic and the models, and any suggestion is well received Thanks.
  12. Hello everyone, As promised in the official Jurassic World thread, I'm sharing the LDD models I made of some of the JW vehicles. Like many of you, I was a little disappointed by the vehicle builds in this theme and wanted to make my own more movie-accurate versions of some of them. Most are heavily inspired by offical LEGO builds (mostly from the City line). Note that the stickers are obviously missing from the vehicles so I'm afraid you'll have to use your imagination for that part. The first vehicle is loosely inspired by the Textron Tiger armoured truck which appears towards the end of the movie. It is based on the offrad pickup truck from the 1st Avengers movie (set 6867). I turned it into a two-seater and added the rear section. JW Textron Tiger 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW Textron Tiger 3 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Up next is the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van used by the ACU to track the I-rex. This one is based on an ambulance from the City theme (set 4431). JW Sprinter 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr There's enough room for about 4-5 figures in the back but it's a tight fit... JW Sprinter 4 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr The next vehicle is the ACU 6x6 G36 from the same scene. This one is an original design but I'm still not 100% please with how it turned out. Hopefully you'll still like it and maybe some more talented builders will improve it. JW 6x6 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW 6x6 3 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Here's how it looks next to the Sprinter van. JW by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Next is the G-class SUV, which is pretty much JW's version of the Jeep Wrangler. I made two versions of this one, the first of which is pretty much a recoloured police SUV from set 4440. JW Mercedes 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr I then made a second version of the car, which is a two-seater with working doors. JW Mercedes 2 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr And finally, we have the Unimog. I used City set #60083 (which is a much better representation of a Unimog than the JW one) as a base for this one and tried to improve the official LEGO design from the JW theme. JW Unimog 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW Unimog 2 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr The rear section was made shorter and I completely modified the interior but you can still fit standing minifigs in there without problems. JW Unimog 3 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Here's an example of the vehicle with a different rear section (this one is inspired by set 4205). JW Unimog 4 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW2 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr If you guys like them, here's the LDD file containing all the vehicles: Jurassic World Vehicles.lxf Thank you for stopping by. ;)
  13. 17Liftarm

    Need help with scaling

    Hi, i'm having problems with consistency of finding the correct scale when building with unimog tires (Tire 94.3 x 38 R) are you building on the 1:10, 1:12 scale or 1:11 scale? The unimog tires are about 4 1/4 inches in diameter. Some semi tires are 22 1/2 and 36 inches in diameter. A semi is about 8 1/2 feet wide. Do the math:
  14. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] Unimog 437

    I guess you could say I couldn't make up my mind about the kind of Unimog I wanted to make next. So I decided to make a platform that would support multiple versions. Features: Interchangeable platform Long and short wheelbase options Standard and Doka cabs, removable Manual control PF control (drop in) Front and rear suspension Steering 4x4 with I-4 fake motor Opening doors and hood Tipper bed options Feel free to check out to learn more about the build. Manual SWB with tipper bed. Manual LWB Doka with tipper bed. Power Functions (XL drive, Servo steering) LWB with cover. Manual LWB with canvas bed showing the suspension travel. You can find more pictures on my flickr. I have been adding instructions for the various versions here, and more will be added over the coming weeks. Someday I'll make a camper, because, everyone needs a camper. This was a fun project, and I loved the way it turned out. I have the LWB on my desk right now, and I keep getting distracted from work. I hope to add additional options for the system at some point, and will take other suggestions for versions to add. Hope you enjoy.
  15. I' ve decided to make an alternative model for 42054 CLAAS XERION 5000 TRAC VC set. I' ve wanted to design something different from all those excellent c models already made, so I made a truck capable of off-road conditions, with crane and many other functions. The result: Functions: rear axle drive with 4 piston engine steering live axle suspension side outriggers cabin tilting rear PTO (power take off) crane arm rotation crane arm 1st stage elevation crane arm 2nd stage elevation grabber closing/opening Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. This model is powered by one m motor with rotation direction selection. It powers main selector, crane selector. and PTO. Main selector switches between worm gear powered functions and arm rotation. When worm gear functions are selected, there is another switch to choose between outriggers and cabin tilting. The crane selector switches between 1st and 2nd stage elevation. I had to use some interesting (I think) solutions because of parts selection in 42054 set: Piston engine There are no piston engine parts in the set, so i made them from some connectors. You can see it working in the video. Suspension There are no shock absorbers or wishbones too. So I' ve made a suspension based on twisting axles: Every wishbone is suspended independly. 3 of those connected to axle make a well-working long travel soft off-road suspension: Grabber There was a grabber in original set, but when building the grabber I've already used the worm gear for more important functions, so I' ve designed a different locking mechanism: Turning the green axle makes the red grabber frame move up and down and becouse of engaging the blue knob gear with h-frame opening and closing blue grabber. Instructions Instructions are already available here on rebrickable! I hope you liked this model.
  16. Could anyone kindly give me the height for the 8110 with the crane in a non-active position (like front of the box graphic) ? I get two dimensions: 31 cm from Lego and over 50 cm from other reviewers.. I want to know whether it fits my 38-cm high cabinet display. Thanks
  17. Hi all, even if this probably doesn't draw anybody from the woodwork today in the age of the Arocs 42043 ;-), i have - inspired from the better performance of the Arocs crane - recompiled my full featured Unimog 8110 from 2014 (http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1964626 and some following posts) and eliminated some remaining weak points: - better bracing of the XL propulsion drive train (now 100% reliable without any crackling gears) - double airpump now mounted the two pumps with offset to each other so the compressor delivers continuously pressure within a turn - replacing the M motor with a L motor which fits perfectly into the same location - preserving tiltable cabin even with battery pack placed within the cabin... So i have decided to rebuild the Mog from the scratch and to document the needed modifying steps with detailled photos, s.b. link... some parts of the following text and pictures are just a replication of some other postings by me in the Unimog Modification Thread but because these posting have a somehow WIP character which makes hard to recognice the final solution i have decided to present the whole final stuff in an own new thread - so if someone searches for a full-featured Unimog-MOD it can be found at one location. @moderator: if you think that this doesn't deserve an own thread, please feel free to move/merge this to the Unimog modification thread - sry for inconvenience! So here is the writeup of all the new features and improvements integrated in the Unimog. Here is the complete overview of the new features / improvements: New features: openable doors and windscreen wipers working steering wheel 3-side tiltable bed with real loading gates with locking mechanism Remote control for driving and steering - and this feature preserves the working steering wheel as well as the 3-side tilting bed and also the fake engine below the cabin. Basic requirement is 100 reliable steering and driving - Motors and receiver are quite invisible from the outside and do not badly influence the appearance of the Mog. rear PTO pass through (with PTO driven trailer, sb) so rear PTO can used even when the crane and outtriggers are rear-mounted flashing beacons on the cabin roof - activated when driving Improvements: PF switch for for better operating of the functions-motor, so you have not to change direction with the battery switch (which is very annoying) Double airpump compressor incl. airtank for more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. Airtank gives you also more flexibility during crane operation because cause of the air reservoir you can simultaneously move the pneumatic stuff and turning the crane smoother steering by fixing some steering issues Better weight balance (the standard Unimog is not really well balanced cause of the heavy battery box on the left side) More motor power for the functions and the compressor by replacing the M-motor by a L motor --> really a big improvement, strongly recommended! Attachments: - some front attachments: 8848 style pneumatic scoop pneumatic front-loader, PTO driven mower, PTO driven street cleaner - 8063 inspired trailer with PTO driven bed and deployable stand Primary goal was adding all these features and improvements but not to change the overall appearance of the 8110 because IMO this is very very good. In addition all standard features like fake engine and tiltable cabin should be preserved. Also the basic design with the gearbox etc. should be preserved. So all new features should be integraded homegeneously and - in best case - invisible. At this final state of the Unimog MOD i'm quite pleased with the result because all goals have been reached - IMHO ;-) Important remark: Some of the integrated mods are not my own but have been basicly "developed and designed" by others people, mostly eurobricks members. See the credits at the end of the posting! Pneumatic driven bed which can be tilted to all 3 sides - including real loading gates with locking It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! . There were no instructions available but there exist a bunch of photos of both solutions so i could reverse-engineer the tilting mechanisms. Most important concepts are a rotary cylinder base (based on barman's solution) a flexible connection to the bed ((completely "stolen" from tripletschiee, a very simple and intelligent solution ) and a "sub-bed" which allows to unlatch one of 3 possible tilting sides (rear, left and right): For easier rebuild i have documented the whole stuff with many detailled shots - see links section at the end. For the loading gates (see photo above) incl. a nifty locking mechanism i found a very good inspiration from EB member stefan_betula_pendula. - in this posting i have already described all deatails incl. many photos: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1972050 Double offset airpump compressor with airtank A Double airpump compressor incl. airtank provides more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. The dual airpumps are mounted with offset to each other so the compressor delivers permanently pressure. Supported by the airtank the whole system now offers in each situation enough and high air power so the crane operation has now always enough lifting power and quite fast response time. This offset needs some more space so this improvement needs one quite deep modification of the chassis which can not be applied to an already build unimog: More motor power for the functions with a L motor The M motor can quite easily replaced by a L motor if the unimog is build from scratch for all this mods. This is really a big improvement and it is strongly recommended! Turning the crane or driving something with one of the PTOs has now much more power. For the new double pump compressor (s.a.) the additional power is also appreciated. But one Remark to the pictures above: better use a standard 24th gear instead of the shown clutch - the double pump compressor appreciates the full power (with a clutch something gets lost within the clutch when airtank is almost full and no pneumatic operation takes immediately place) - with i standard gear i never get a stalled motor but always full air power... RC for driving and steering incl. a working steering wheel Today all stuff has to be RC - and even i'm not really into it i saw the challenge to integrate RCing into the Unimog together with the tilting bed (s.a.) - this tilting bed prevents from using the typical solution be placing the XL motor for propulsion in the middle of the chassis - there is simply to room for it. After a lot of try&error solutions i finally managed an RC-solution which integrates very well and is quite invisible from outside (btw: thanks to EB member Pat Ard for his initial idea placing the XL into the original battery compartment --> battery has then moved into the cabin) drives without any crackling of gears steers as well and reliable as the direct-servo-solution-on-fron-axle (steers also very well when not driving!) - a return-to-center is really not necessary with such slow vehicles... preserves the full suspension travel of the front axle (with the servo mounted on the front axle the travel must be reduced by the height of a 1x2 plate to prevent the servo from colliding with the pistons of the fake engine (from below) has a working steering wheel has a quite invisible IR receiver Integration of the XL motor: Overall the steering-motor, the accu battery and the IR receiver can be integrated very well into the cabin - the cabin then simply has a typical center console (M motor), a build in refrigerator box (gear reduction for steering) and a tool cabinet (accu at the back of the cabin): One remark to the steering solution: Here the servo motor was not an option for me, despite the fact, that the steering performance of the servo is perfect when mounted direct on the front axle - as shown e.g. by EB member Pat Ard. But this solution allows no working steering wheel because it is simply impossible to connect a universal joint and the steering CV joint (cause of too steep angle and too short distance). Running the servo from within the cabin by driving the standard steering gear-train of the 8110 is also no solution because then the steering performance is somehow mediocre: the servo has enough power but IMO the steering gear train from motor to the rack is too long with too many gears involved so there is to much backlash - and because the servo can just spin a 1/4 for a full steering lock and because of very much friction caused by the big tires this 1/4 round of the servo is partly somewhere lost in the steering gear train... These problems can all be avoided with my final and very well working solution: Steering driven by M motor with a quite high gear reduction in the cabin performs excellent, but only with a double clutch gear (because only one is too weak for a powerful and fast enough response steering even during stop cause of the high resistance of the big tires): For the working steering wheel i have 99% applied the solution of tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin Openable doors they were inspired by the solution of EB member Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... Using a PF switch switching direction via battery box is always a pain --> therefore i have added a PF switch - IMHO quite well integrated (and nowhere stolen ;-) Fixing steering issues There are two problems which needed being fixed: a) better steering lock/angle: This can be done by replacing the 4 3/4 pins (DBG) by 4 1/2 pins (LBG). Removing the pins completely is not the best solution because then the tires can rub on the chassis when suspension is compressed and you will steer... b) making the steering easier - out of the box it is way to hard - this is not only cause of the high friction of the tires but also cause of 4 red friction pins involved. In addition the whole front axle has a strong bump steer. well, i have tried several solutions: - Nicjasnos complete new front axle: this one has by far the best suspension and steering and reduces the bump steer a lot. BUT: it looks to bulky and therefore the look isn't realistic for a Unimog... therefore i have discarded it after building, installing and testing - applying the full fix of Junkstyle Gio (http://www.eurobrick...1) which replaces all 4 friction pins with frictionless-replacements: this makes the steering indeed very easy but on the other side now each grain of dust colliding with a front wheel can change the steering's too easy.. Therefore i have applied only the half of the fix of Junkstyle Gio so its a mixture of friction and frictionless pins --> IMHO is the best compromise of easyness and stability for the steering and the look of the front-axle: Adding a PTO pass trough for the crane - switchable between turning the crane and passing through the PTO This enhances the flexibility of the Unimog a lot beause now you can add any PTO powered trailer even with back-attached crane. There is a switch which allows to switch between spinning the crane and runing the PTO pass-through. PTO 1 has same speed as the PTO of the chassis, PTO 2 is slightly geared down (12:20) This mod is not from myself but it is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved. Highly recommened! Thank you, dr_spock, for providing me some detailshots. Trailer with dumping bed driven by the PTO pass-trough This trailer is inspired by the 8063 Trailer and by a trailer made by EB member dr_spock (which is also the designer of the pass through PTO as mentioned above). In fact: It is the 8063 trailer with slightly wider bed, bigger wheels and ability being connected to a mechanical PTO. In addition the tilting still can be manually operated. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full power-gear train is completely my own MOD. The original 8063 trailer has a nice stand that can be deployed via a lever mechanism that keeps the trailer upright when it is not attached to the towing vehicle. I wanted this stand being preserved because it works well and it is simply necessary for a trailer with such an axle layout: Preserving this stand makes a it little bit tricky to integrate a well braced and geared down gear-train from the coupling to the LA-base but i succeded: Details can be found in this posting: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1948575 Flashing beacons i ordered them by EB member Zmei_gorini4 (Kirill) - they work perfectly and look very good - IMHO they are worth the price...good job, Kirill! More details can be found here: http://www.eurobrick...25#entry1976100 Links to many many detail shots: Modded chassis: Building the modded chassis from scratch with all the following new features integrated: 3-side tilting bed, XL motor for propulsion (RC), L motor as replacement of the original M motor, double offset mounted air pump, preparation of airtank mounting plus hose guidings and covers for both motors (XL and L). Rear axle is 100% original and front axle has only applied the known steering fix for smoother steering movement and greater steering lock (s.a.). Of course in both axles you must switch the gear ratios vice verca in the portals (with 8:24 the Mog drives very well)! You can rebuild it with the photos found here together with the original BI of the 8110. Modded Cabin: Detailed photos how to integrate RC steering: Detailed photos of the working steering wheel: and PF switch Detailed photos of openable doors: doors Because these 3 mods have been done at different states of the Unimog modding there can be some inconsistences between some photos - build carefully together with the original 8110-BI because these 3 cabin mods slightly influence each other! Flasing beacons: beacons Rear PTO pass-through: detailed photos can be found here: Pass through Trailer with tilting bed driven by the PTO: detailed photos can be found here: - together with the original BI of the 8063 trailer you can easily rebuild it. Front loader attachment: detailed photos can be found here: Loader 8848 style scoop: detailed photos can be found here: PTO driven mower and street cleaner: Photo instructions can be found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Inspirations and credits: New features: openable doors were inspired by the solution of Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... For working steerng wheel i have 99% applied the solution of EB-member tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin - modified by me to work together with my RC steering solution The 3-side tilting bed It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members EB-members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! RC is completely my own solution and design, for steering as well as for propulsion The rear PTO pass-through is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved Flasing beacons are bought from EB member Zmei_gorini4 - integration in the cabin by me Improvements: PF switch is completely my own design Double compressor with offset airpumps is completely my own design steering fix is inspired by the solution of EB member Junkstyle Gio but modified by me better weight balance by placing the battery box with in the cabin is completely my own design replacing the M motor by a L motor is completely my own design Attachments: The 8848 style pneumatic scoop is 100% the design of EB member thomol (http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1164528) The pneumatic front loader is build based on the design of EB member Tim S. PTO driven mower and PTO driven street cleaner i have found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Trailer with PTO driven bed is inspired by the 8063 trailer and by a trailer of EB member dr_spock. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full PTO-gear train is completely my own MOD
  18. Imanol BB

    off roading trucks

    hello everyone, my name is Imanol Berecibar, i am mostly a technic builder and particularly new in Lego Town, but i want to show you some trucks i have made that fit into minifig scale and have working suspension using lego rubber parts, and they are good for make more trucks from the chassis (also it would be good to replace the radiator parts with some plates and put stickers on them): unimog u423 (compatible for attachments) unimog u5023 these two vehicles have fully working live axle suspension, the u423 has attachment points for various implements, like mowers, buckets... , and the u5023 its built more for off roading; more pictures at my brickshelf gallery. i hope you like them, i will try to make some more vehicles, thanks.
  19. Hello all! It's been a while, I posted here anything, but now I'll try to upload my works more recently. I start with this Unimog 401, which is the oldest Unimog with Merecdes-Benz star. This one has also an "Ochsenkopf" (ox head) in the hood, which was later removed in the next generations. The building time took about 2 weeks at all, and this is my first model which got the special dark green color, to get close to the original's painting. I ordered several types of these bricks, more models will come in this color. I chosed for building the 1:7 scale, with the 108 mm RC4WD rock crusher XT wheels. They aren't Lego, but as far as I can see nowadays it's normal in tyres, and the look is better imho with these. Goals: Llooking and working authentically, as close as possible to the real thing, beside of off-road capabilities and remote control. Main functions: Motorized: driving, steering, gear change Automatic: steering wheel, piston engine, PTO in front and rear Manual functions: openable hood, doors, rear side Working: One Lego PF L motor drives, one M steers. The 2 speed linear gearbox is operated by a M motor. Steering wheel and suspension also works. The original has rigid axles with torque tubes, so I chosed also them. Four of 8466's springs were taken apart, so I got 4 coil springs to get the authentical look in machinery of axles. I also attached differential imitating disks. The rear view mirrors work a little. One L motor drives the whole thing, it's sliding in two axles, because of the 2 speed (1:3 and 1:1 ratios) linear gearbox. This way there is no need for driveshaft length adjuster between the driving motor, and the incoming axle of the gearbox, but the rear PTO has one from 6 holed pulleys. There is a PTO also in the front with a pulley, like in the original. The working L4 piston engine has mini pistons from 2L axles and half bushes. Details: I wanted to build as details as possible both inside and outside, like: detailed interior, steering wheel, stickers (for instruments too), gear change levers in the cab, handbrake lever, mudguards seen from inside, fuel tank, number plates, lights, seats, rear wood cover, detailed engine room, tanks for brake, exhaust, etc. Pictures I made it in the winter season, that's why you can see snow as background: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=563725 With dark green wheel covers: There are anti-roll bars to prevent rolling, the vertical 6L links connect them with the axles: The diff imitators: Of course I made a video, too: Hope you like it.
  20. So this will be my second topic on eb beside my 42043-C Zetros topic. This time it will be a D-model for 42043 Arcos set, and like the C.model I will continue the Mercedes Benz theme. The D-model will be an Unimog U4000 only build with parts from the 42043 set. facts: Mercedes Benz Unimog U4000 (4x4) 4 Inline engine Lenght: 5410 mm wide: 2336 mm Height: 2612 mm tyre size: 335/80 R 20 so if the model should be in a perfect scale of the IRL unimog, it would be a 1:16 build acording to the 62.4/20S lego tyres, because those are the one we have in the 42043 set. that means the 42043-D Unimog U4000 will be Lenght: 34 Studs (+-) Wide: 19 Studs (+-) Height: 20 Studs (+-) Pictures of my "don't think or calculate, just build" progress below Update will come....
  21. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] Unimog U90

    Another completed MOC hailing from Thirdwiggville. Based on the old and ugly (can I say that?) U90, which sees little love in these parts. Much more at Features: 4x4 PF XL drive PF Servo steering Portal Axles Live axle suspension Removable Bed and Cab Three way tipper bed Fischertechnic tires Full Flickr gallery here. Enjoy.
  22. Good day! Just instantly got the idea of making a unimog with pneumatic attachments. Functions that will be included: -4x4 -Fake engine with moving pistons -Pneumatic ports on front and rear -Mechanical outputs on front and rear -Attachments using these outputs -Tiltable cabin -The PTO's can be engaged to the drive -Tiltable bed -HOG For now the front axle, has steering and drive. Probably will have a pendular suspension on front. I made some more progress, in an hour the images will be, right now can't upload them. LDD file shows the actual progress. I also made a folder on Bricksafe Also I used Sariel's scale tool to get exact dimensions of the model based on the wheels
  23. Hello everyone... I just decided to buy Sheepo's Rubicon instructions... but I'm a bit concerned, i dont have any 9.5L springs unfortunately... Are there any replacements? Hacks? Custom springs are welcome... but how? I really need your help... I dont think its impossible
  24. Modular truck attachment system (MTAS) is a standard I have designed and developed to allow various attachments and tools to be used on my LEGO Technic truck. This system provides for the flexibility to easily swap attachments on the truck, depending on the use of the truck at that time. The idea for this came about from my experience designing and building Unimog attachments which I have really enjoyed designing and building over the past few months. The truck features: - Hand of God steering - Opening cabin doors - Scissor Lift The first attachment for this is a modified Unimog attachment scissor lift. Over a period of time I will be converting more Unimog attachments to use with this and building new ones from scratch.
  25. Hi folks, something new - hm, no, historical ;) I made a histrical logging trailer, those were/are used here in southern germany. They are quite simple, but effective :) Oh, and here a small video which shows how the logs are loaded... Have fun...