Lixander

I gave a chance to the small retro buggy concept from the beginning of the topic...........and I am excited for this thing, I don't know exactly why. Anyway, the test-building went much more smoother than the last thing - the ”Flat baja-truck MAXX”. Speaking of it, the new buggy is quite the opposite of the Flat baja MAXX.........small, robust and fast. It runs with 1x servo, 1x buggy motor geared for speed from the speed output and 8x hard 6.5L shocks. I know how that sounds (virtually no torque), but after some tests, I managed to get the model to run pretty much perfectly with the original gearing coupled to the speed output of the motor. Not to forget, the model has around 800 g / 1.75lbs / 28.21 oz with the hub. It uses the same front assembly as the Tamiya BBX BB-01 replica and the Flat baja II, more exactly the Flat baja`s II V2 front assembly with 2x pairs of hard 6.5L shocks (the Tamiya replica uses 1x pair of 9.5L hard / extra-hard shocks). Still have to test-run the model properly in a park, but so far it performed great indoor with the small improvements I made, which are simplifying the rear wing, adding more structural integrity, especially at rear and putting the new CV joints where I could and where I couldn't, I replaced the plastic U-joints with some cheap metal U-joints. Also, even if the 1.55 inches tires look a bit too big, there are offering much more grip and height than the 75mm spiked tires or the bigger tires and there are better even than the 94 mm balloon tires (which have about the same size with the 1.55 inches RC tires). Note: the ruler in the 3rd image is 30 cm / around 12 inches. If you didn't observed the hub in any image, here it is.........hided in the rear wing. And, today I came across an old Racer set from 2007 - the 8138 ”Phantom crasher”, and I really liked how it looked. So, I tried to reconstruct it on the same chassis as my retro styled buggy..............this is the result. Most likely, I would also test this body-work too.

Last picture of the ”Flat baja-truck MAXX”, which was a mess basically. The concept was full of errors, heavy, under-powered, with a saggy suspension and a heavy original body-work. That is why I tried putting 6x buggy motors and made a new buggy body-work for it, but the gears kept skidding, so I just scrapped it. I worked almost continuously for over 1 month on the concept, a considerable period of time for me.

Ok, so the only way to put a Geekservo in the case of an external receiver is to connect the servos to the receiver, right?

Also, if anyone asks ”Then where the Geekservo would be connected if the servo port is occupied?”. The Geekservo would be connected in this case to the receiver.

Welp, the Tamiya BBX replica is finally on Rebrickable. Also, can someone help me remake the decals for the Lego panels, please?

I understand. I will think about it. One thing is sure though: the model needs more power (so more work).

I see, thanks! A more complicated idea I have now, based on the rear-axle of your WIP, is to put 8x buggy motors on their speed output and to gear them up to increase the torque. On each axle (front and rear) there will be 2x packs with 2x motors each. The differential will be useless in this case, so if I would actually do this, I will swap it with some gears.

Oke..........what about 3x motors on 1x axle? Does it puts too much stress or something? And if I will swap the differential with some 20 and 12 tooth thick gears, it will change anything? (in terms of the motor stress, parts stress and so on; I know that I can change the order of the gears to get more speed or torque).

Do you encountered any problems or had any damaged parts due to using 6x BuWizz motors? Also, the chassis is 4x4 or 2x4 and what output/s of the motors it uses? I am thinking if it is safe to use 3x buggy motors linked with a single axle. I want to put such a set-up in a model (the one with the 0 distance between the suspension arms) as it is pretty slow. It uses 2x linked buggy motors for the front and another 2x for the rear, both connected to a dark-bluish-grey differential.

Oke.....so make the suspension arms wider.

Yup. The concept complicates everything as it brings other problems with it. I will see what I can do to improve it. In the next week I will shorten the suspension arms for sure to address the geometry problem. P.S.: The model doesnt have any problem caused by the drive-shafts from what I have seen until now.

I see. I will shorten the suspension arms for sure. Thanks! Also, what do you mean by ”mounts”? P.S.: The model doesnt have any problem caused by the drive-shafts from what I have seen until now.

So basically make the drive-shaft the same length as the suspension arm? Also, on the Flat baja MAXX is hard due to the distance between the arms. The tests version uses 1x CV joint of the new kind on each end connected with a 5.5L axle with center stop.

The chassis of the Flat baja-truck MAXX is near to its first outdoor run! Opposed to the prototype, the version that I am testing has 4x buggy motors, 4x hard 9.5L shocks and 2x hard 6.5L shocks. For the first run at least, I fitted the model with 1.9 in tires for RC trucks which have an outer diameter of around 120 mm / 4.72 in. Sadly, I cant see any benefits of having 0 studs between the suspension arms, a concept I wanted to test. I had put the prototype`s render of the rear frame too, to have a better view of the concept.

Thanks for creating the topic! I am not sure now if it helps in any matter, but theoretically, aside from complicating the build too much, a 0 studs distance between the suspension arms might enhance the suspension overall. I said I am not sure because in a few days I will test-run the chassis of the Flat baja-truck MAXX, a WIP that needed some work to be done to make it work at least at a decent level.......I will talk about the model in a more appropriate topic, but the idea is took over form another of my projects - the ”Something 4x4” concept, that had 4x4 drive-line with 0 studs distance between the suspension arms both in front and at rear. The idea can be put only in large models, as it takes spaces due to adjustments needed to put even number of studs in the model. But I don`t think this worths the struggle as I don`t observe any huge impact on the suspension.